CELLULOSIC FIBRESCELLULOSIC FIBRES

FIBREFIBRE:-:-FiberFiber or or fibrefibre is a class of is a class of materials that are continuous filaments or materials that are continuous filaments or are in discrete elongated pieces, similar are in discrete elongated pieces, similar to lengths of thread. to lengths of thread.

Natural fibers-Natural fibers-

Man-made fibersMan-made fibers

Vegetable fibre

Animal fibre

Mineral fibre

May come from natural synthetic chemicals

CELLULOSIC FIBRES

NATURAL CELLULOSIC MANMADE CELLULOSIC

• COTTON• LINEN• JUTE• HEMP• SISAL• KAPOK• RAMIE• COIR• PINA

• RAYON• ACETATE• TRI ACETATE• Cupra Ammonium

COTTONCOTTON

Properties of cotton fibersProperty Evaluation

ShapeFairly uniform in width, 12-20 microns; length varies from ½ to 2½ inches; typical length is ⅞ to 1¼ inches.

Luster low

Tenacity (strength)DryWet

3.0-5.0 g/d3.3-6.0 g/d

Resiliency low

Density 1.54/1.56 g/ccm

Moisture absorptionraw:conditionedsaturationmercerized: conditionedsaturation

8.5%15-25%8.5-10.3%15-27%+

Dimensional stability good

Resistance toacidsalkaliorganic solventssunlightmicroorganismsinsects

damage, weaken fibersresistant; no harmful effectshigh resistance to mostProlonged exposure weakens fibers.Mildew and rot-producing bacteria damage fibers.Silverfish damage fibers.

Thermal reactionsto heatto flame

Decomposes after prolonged exposure to temperatures of 150˚C or over.Burns readily.

TYPES OF COTTON The following species are grown commercially: Gossypium arboreum L. – Tree cotton, native to India and

Pakistan.

Gossypium barbadense L. – known as American Pima, Creole, Egyptian, or Sea island cotton, native to tropical South America.

Gossypium herbaceum L. – Levant cotton, native to southern Africa and Arabian Peninsula.

Gossypium hirsutum L. – Upland cotton, native to Central America, Mexico, the Caribbean and southern Florida - most commonly grown species in the world.

Gossypium peruvianium

Gossypium purpurascade

COTTON LONGITUDINAL-COTTON LONGITUDINAL-SECTIONSECTION

•Also cotton has a Bean-shaped cross section

Yarn Manufacturing ProcessesYarn Manufacturing Processes

Plucking:-Plucking:-

1.1. ManualManual

2.2. Mechanical Mechanical

Picking:- open tufts are Picking:- open tufts are collected and rolled collected and rolled into a batt. Then batt into a batt. Then batt is removed from the is removed from the cylindrical screens of cylindrical screens of the picker in an even the picker in an even flat sheet and rolled flat sheet and rolled into a lapinto a lap

GinningGinning

Harvested raw cottonHarvested raw cottonContains seeds, leaf Contains seeds, leaf

fragments etc.fragments etc.Cottonseeds weigh 2/3rds of Cottonseeds weigh 2/3rds of

raw cotton when picked.raw cotton when picked.These are removed by a These are removed by a

cotton gin.cotton gin.Cotton gin has saw-toothed Cotton gin has saw-toothed

bands that pull the fiber bands that pull the fiber from the seeds. Then from the seeds. Then

cotton fiber is compressed cotton fiber is compressed into rectangular bales, into rectangular bales, covered with jute or covered with jute or

polypropylene bagging and polypropylene bagging and bound with iron bands.bound with iron bands.

Opening and blending Opening and blending

The sequential production process The sequential production process begins by converting the compacted begins by converting the compacted layers of baled cotton into small, layers of baled cotton into small, light, fluffy tufts that facilitate light, fluffy tufts that facilitate removal of foreign matter. This initial removal of foreign matter. This initial process is called “opening”.process is called “opening”.

Since bales are of different density, Since bales are of different density, they are cut 24 hrs before processing they are cut 24 hrs before processing in order to allow them to “bloom”.in order to allow them to “bloom”.

Scutching

It refers to the blow room operations.It refers to the blow room operations. The resultant is a cotton lapThe resultant is a cotton lap

Carding

The card successively works on small tufts of fibres separating or opening them ,removing a high percentage of trash and other foreign matterscollecting the fibre in arope-like form called“sliver” and delivering it for further processing.The fibres are made parallel to each other and their direction is oriented.

Combing

•Provides more extensivecleaning than carding

•Removes short fibres neps and trash so that the resulting sliver isclean and lustrous.

Drawing and roving –first or initial twist to Drawing and roving –first or initial twist to the yarn is given. Its diameter is 2mm -the yarn is given. Its diameter is 2mm -3mm3mm

Spinning-production of yarn by twisting Spinning-production of yarn by twisting the yarn. Its of 2 typesthe yarn. Its of 2 types

1.1. Open-end spinningOpen-end spinning2.2. Close-end spinningClose-end spinning

Doubling- each yarn has two single yarns, Doubling- each yarn has two single yarns, to make it strongerto make it stronger

Sizing, Gassing- done to give uniformity Sizing, Gassing- done to give uniformity to the yarnto the yarn

VARIOUS FINISHES OF COTTONVARIOUS FINISHES OF COTTON

Mercerization- adds strength, improves lustre, absorbency, Mercerization- adds strength, improves lustre, absorbency, dyeabilitydyeability

Sanforization-ensures less than 1 % shrinkageSanforization-ensures less than 1 % shrinkage

Moireing- for variable luster and variable patternMoireing- for variable luster and variable pattern

Glazing-gloss, smoothness and embossed effectsGlazing-gloss, smoothness and embossed effects

Stiffening- smoothen, stiffens and strengthensStiffening- smoothen, stiffens and strengthens

Wrinkle resistant permanent press- improves shape-Wrinkle resistant permanent press- improves shape-retension and imparts dip-dry characteristicretension and imparts dip-dry characteristic

Schreinerizing-adds lusterSchreinerizing-adds luster

Stain repelling-for easy careStain repelling-for easy care

Napping-for softness, warmth and increased absorbencyNapping-for softness, warmth and increased absorbency

Singeing-for smoothnessSingeing-for smoothness

Weighting-for bulkWeighting-for bulk

Insulating-for warmthInsulating-for warmth

Embossing-for decorationEmbossing-for decoration

Mildew resistantMildew resistant

Fire-retardantFire-retardant

Moth-resistantMoth-resistant

ADVANTAGESADVANTAGES It can be processed into a wide selection of fabrics- It can be processed into a wide selection of fabrics- 1.1. Sheer fabrics- cambric,batist chiffon,lawn,organdy and Sheer fabrics- cambric,batist chiffon,lawn,organdy and

voile.voile.2.2. Medium weight cottons-Medium weight cottons-

broadcloth,drill,flannel,poplin,terry cloth and long cloth.broadcloth,drill,flannel,poplin,terry cloth and long cloth.3.3. Heavy weight cottons-brocade,corduroy,denim,pique and Heavy weight cottons-brocade,corduroy,denim,pique and

velveteenvelveteen

Can be mercerized to improve luster, Can be mercerized to improve luster, absorbency,dyeability and strength.absorbency,dyeability and strength.

Textured effects are easily achieved by-Textured effects are easily achieved by-1.1. Changing yarn structure-high twist yarns,nub yarns, Changing yarn structure-high twist yarns,nub yarns,

bouclé yarns, crimped yarnbouclé yarns, crimped yarn2.2. Changing fabric construction- crepes,serersuckersChanging fabric construction- crepes,serersuckers3.3. Application of special finishes- embossing and nappingApplication of special finishes- embossing and napping

Can be easily dyed or printed with almost all classes of Can be easily dyed or printed with almost all classes of dyes.dyes.

Good absorbent, Does not build up static electricity, Good Good absorbent, Does not build up static electricity, Good conductor of heatconductor of heat

LimitationsLimitations Untreated cotton wrinkles easilyUntreated cotton wrinkles easily

Susceptible to mildew if left dampSusceptible to mildew if left damp

FlammableFlammable

Takes a long time to dryTakes a long time to dry

SISALSISAL

•The sisal plant has a 7-10 year life-span and typically produces 200-250 commercially usable leaves.

•Each leaf contains an average of around 1000 fibers.

• It is extracted by a process known as decortication.

USES USES

Sisal is used in three grades:

1. The lower grade fiber is processed by the paper industry

because of its high content of cellulose and hemicelluloses.

2. The medium grade fiber is used in the cordage industry for making: ropes, baler and

binders twine

3. The higher-grade fiber after treatment is converted into

yarns

Linen or flax fibres are extracted from the stem or bast of flax plant

Fibres held together by gummy substance called as Pectin

Flax fibre basically composed of Cellulose

LINEN

Countries cultivating flax plant are

Belgium

Scot

France

Russia

Germany

Countrai flax produces the finest and strongest yarn from Belgium

QUALITY AND GRADES

1.1. CULTIVATION: CULTIVATION: April or MayApril or May 2.2. HARVESTING: HARVESTING: By the end of AugustBy the end of August

3.3. PREPARATION OF FIBRES:PREPARATION OF FIBRES: Rippling/Threshing – seeds and Rippling/Threshing – seeds and

leaves removal from stem.leaves removal from stem. Retting – Most important process Retting – Most important process

where stems are left under where stems are left under moistened condition to decompose moistened condition to decompose and separation of fibers.and separation of fibers.

METHODS OF SEPARATION OF METHODS OF SEPARATION OF LINENLINEN

Types of retting :Types of retting :

1.1. Dew retting Dew retting

2.2. Pool or Dam rettingPool or Dam retting

3.3. Stream retting Stream retting

4.4. Vat rettingVat retting

5.5. Chemical rettingChemical retting

4. Manufacturing process:BreakingScutchingHackling (Coming)Spinning.

Inelastic so usually break during Inelastic so usually break during weaving processweaving process

Very moist atmosphere is required.Very moist atmosphere is required. Generally not knitted because ofGenerally not knitted because of

a) Inherent stiffness a) Inherent stiffness

b)Resistance to being formed into b)Resistance to being formed into

CONSTRUCTION OF LINEN FABRICS

SO, usually blended with cotton or SO, usually blended with cotton or other man made fibresother man made fibres

Apparel fabricsApparel fabrics – shirt, skirt,jackets etc. – shirt, skirt,jackets etc.

Accessories fabric-Accessories fabric- pockets,bags etc. pockets,bags etc.

House hold textiles-House hold textiles- bed n table bed n table clothing clothing etc. etc.

Industrial textiles-Industrial textiles- tarpaulins, ropes etctarpaulins, ropes etc

END PRODUCTS OF LINEN FARICS

It is very durable, two or three times It is very durable, two or three times stronger then cotton.stronger then cotton.

High absobency,smoothness so High absobency,smoothness so comfortable to wear.comfortable to wear.

Good resistance to alkalies and Good resistance to alkalies and bleaches.bleaches.

Easily dyed and printed.Easily dyed and printed. Withstand high ironing temperature.Withstand high ironing temperature.

Linen wrinkles easily.Linen wrinkles easily. Lacks flex abrasion n hence shows Lacks flex abrasion n hence shows

wear on crease lines n seamswear on crease lines n seams Fabrics take long time to dry.Fabrics take long time to dry. It is imflammable.It is imflammable. Susceptible to mildew if left damp.Susceptible to mildew if left damp. It has poor press-crease retention.It has poor press-crease retention.

JuteJuteSOURCE

•Jute is one of the strongest natural fibres•The jute fibre comes from the stem and ribbon (outer skin) of the jute plant.•The production is concentrated in Bangladesh, India, China, and Thailand. It is the second most important vegetable fibre after cotton, in terms of usage, global consumption, production, and availability. •It is the second most important vegetable fibre after cotton, in terms of usage, global consumption, production, and availability

MANUFACTURING PROCESSMANUFACTURING PROCESS

The fibres are first extracted by retting. The fibres are first extracted by retting.

The retting process consists of The retting process consists of bundling jute stems together and bundling jute stems together and immersing them in low, running immersing them in low, running water. water.

There are two types of retting: stem There are two types of retting: stem and ribbon. After the retting and ribbon. After the retting process, stripping begins.process, stripping begins.

In the stripping process, non-fibrous In the stripping process, non-fibrous matter is scraped off, then the matter is scraped off, then the workers dig in and grab the fibres workers dig in and grab the fibres from within the jute stem.from within the jute stem.

PROPERTIESPROPERTIES

Jute fibre is 100% bio-degradable and Jute fibre is 100% bio-degradable and recyclable and thus environmentally recyclable and thus environmentally friendly. friendly.

It is a natural fibre with golden and silky It is a natural fibre with golden and silky shine and hence called shine and hence called The Golden FibreThe Golden Fibre. .

It is the cheapest vegetable fibre procured It is the cheapest vegetable fibre procured from the bast or skin of the plant's stem. from the bast or skin of the plant's stem.

It has high tensile strength, low It has high tensile strength, low extensibility, and ensures better extensibility, and ensures better breathability of fabrics.breathability of fabrics.

ADVANTAGESADVANTAGES

good insulating and antistatic propertiesgood insulating and antistatic properties

low thermal conductivitylow thermal conductivity

moderate moisture regain.moderate moisture regain.

acoustic insulating propertiesacoustic insulating properties

no skin irritations.no skin irritations.

DISADVANTAGESDISADVANTAGES

poor drapabilitypoor drapability

BrittlenessBrittleness

fibre sheddingfibre shedding

yellowing in sunlightyellowing in sunlight

Jute has a decreased strength when wetJute has a decreased strength when wet

USESUSES

JUTE MATS

•It is used as substitute for hemp

•As binding thread for carpet and rugs, rug cushions, filler with other fibers.

• As a linoleum base

•Made into cheap coarse fabrics

•Heavy bagging.

COIR COIR

SOURCE• Coir fibers are found between the husk and the outer shell of a

coconut.

• The individual fiber cells are narrow and hollow, with thick walls made of cellulose.

The coir is of two types:1. Brown coir2. White coir

MANUFACTURING PROCESSMANUFACTURING PROCESSBROWN COIRBROWN COIR

•Brown coir is harvested from fully ripened coconuts

•The fibrous layer of the fruit is then separated from the hard shell (manually) by driving the fruit down onto a spike to split it (De-husking

•The fibrous husks are soaked in pits or in nets in a slow moving body of water to swell and soften the fibres

•. The long bristle fibres are separated from the shorter mattress fibres underneath the skin of the nut, a process known as wet-milling

•The mattress fibres are sifted to remove dirt and other rubbish, dried in the sun and packed into bales

WHITE COIRWHITE COIR

White coir fibers are harvested from White coir fibers are harvested from the coconuts before they are ripethe coconuts before they are ripe

The immature husks are suspended The immature husks are suspended in a river or water-filled pit for up to in a river or water-filled pit for up to ten months.ten months.

During this time micro-organisms During this time micro-organisms break down the plant tissues break down the plant tissues surrounding the fibres to loosen surrounding the fibres to loosen them - a process known as rettingthem - a process known as retting

Segments of the husk are then Segments of the husk are then beaten by hand to separate out the beaten by hand to separate out the long fibres which are subsequently long fibres which are subsequently dried and cleaneddried and cleaned

Cleaned fibre is ready for spinning Cleaned fibre is ready for spinning into yarn using a simple one-into yarn using a simple one-handed system or a spinning wheel.handed system or a spinning wheel.

RETTING

PROPERTIESPROPERTIES Mature brown coir fibers contain more Mature brown coir fibers contain more

lignin and less cellulose than fibers such lignin and less cellulose than fibers such as flax and cotton and so are stronger but as flax and cotton and so are stronger but less flexibleless flexible

They are made up of small threads, each They are made up of small threads, each about 1 mm long and 10 to 20 about 1 mm long and 10 to 20 micrometres in diametermicrometres in diameter

The fibers are white or light brown in color The fibers are white or light brown in color and are smoother and finer, but also and are smoother and finer, but also weakerweaker

USESUSES

Brown coir is used in floor Brown coir is used in floor mats and doormats, brushes, mats and doormats, brushes, mattresses, floor tiles and mattresses, floor tiles and sacking.sacking.

Used to make twineUsed to make twine

Used to fill mattressesUsed to fill mattresses

The major use of white coir is The major use of white coir is in rope manufacturein rope manufacture

HEMPHEMP

The fiber is one of the most valuable parts of the hemp plant.

It is commonly called "bast", meaning it grows as a stalk from the ground

PROPERTIESPROPERTIES

•The inner two fibers of hemp are more woody, and are more often used in non-woven items and other industrial applications

•Hemp fibers can be 3 to 15 feet long, running the length of the plant.

•the hemp naturally may be creamy white, brown, gray, black or green

USESUSES

•the manufacture of cordage of varying tensile strength

•clothing

•nutritional products

•hemp fibers are increasingly used to strengthen cement

RAMIE:- Ramie (Boehmeria nivea) is a flowering plant in the nettle family native to eastern asia. The true ramie or china grass also called chinese plant or white ramie is the chinese cultivated plant.A second type is known as green ramie or rhea and is believed to originate from malay peninsula.it is suitable in tropical climate….. Ramie is one of the oldest fibre crops, having been used for at least six thousand years, and is principally used for fabric production. It is a bast fibre, and the part used is the bark of the vegetative stalks. Ramie is normally harvested two to three times a year but under good growing conditions can be harvested up to six times per year.Unlike other bast crops, ramie requires chemical processing to de-gum the fibre.

PropertiesRamie is one of the strongest natural fibers. It exhibits even greater strength when wet. Ramie fiber is known especially for its ability to hold shape, reduce wrinkling, and introduce a silky lustre to the fabric appearance. It is not as durable as other fibers, and so is usually used as a blend with other fibers such as cotton or wool. It is similar to flax in absorbency, density and microscopic appearance. However it will not dye as well as cotton. Because of its high molecular crystallinity, ramie is stiff and brittle and will break if folded repeatedly in the same place; it lacks resiliency and is low in elasticity and elongation potential.

UsesDespite its strength, ramie has had limited acceptance for textile use. The fiber's extraction and cleaning are expensive, chiefly because of the several steps—involving scraping, pounding, heating, washing, or exposure to chemicals. Some or all are needed to separate the raw fiber from the adhesive gums or resins in which it is ensheathed. Spinning the fiber is made difficult by its brittle quality and low elasticity; and weaving is complicated by the hairy surface of the yarn, resulting from lack of cohesion between the fibers. The greater utilization of ramie depends upon the development of improved processing methods.

•Kapok (Ceiba pentandra) is a tropical tree of the order Malvales and the family Malvaceae (previously separated in the family Bombacaceae), native to Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean, northern South America, and (as the variety C. pentandra var. guineensis) to tropical west Africa. The word is also used for the fibre obtained from its seed pods. The tree is also known as the Java cotton, Java kapok, or ceiba. It is a sacred symbol in Maya mythology.

UsesUses The fibre is light, very buoyant, resilient, The fibre is light, very buoyant, resilient,

highly flammable and resistant to water. highly flammable and resistant to water. The process of harvesting and separating The process of harvesting and separating the fibre is labour-intensive and manual. the fibre is labour-intensive and manual. It cannot be spun but is used as an It cannot be spun but is used as an alternative to down as filling in alternative to down as filling in mattresses, pillows, upholstery, teddy mattresses, pillows, upholstery, teddy bears, zafus and for insulation. It was bears, zafus and for insulation. It was previously much used in life jackets and previously much used in life jackets and similar devices. The fibre has been similar devices. The fibre has been largely replaced by man-made materials. largely replaced by man-made materials. The seeds produce an oil used locally in The seeds produce an oil used locally in soap and that can be used as fertilizer.soap and that can be used as fertilizer.

PiñaPiña

PiñaPiña is a fiber made from the leaves is a fiber made from the leaves of a pineapple and is commonly used of a pineapple and is commonly used in the Philippines. It is sometimes in the Philippines. It is sometimes combined with silk or polyester to combined with silk or polyester to create a textile fabric. The end fabric create a textile fabric. The end fabric is lightweight, easy to care for and is lightweight, easy to care for and has an elegant appearance similar to has an elegant appearance similar to linenlinen

Major Fiber PropertiesMajor Fiber Properties

Piña comes from the leaves of the pineapple plant. Piña comes from the leaves of the pineapple plant. "Each strand of the hand scrapped Piña fiber is "Each strand of the hand scrapped Piña fiber is knotted one by one to form a continuous filament for knotted one by one to form a continuous filament for hand weaving into the Piña cloth". The piña fiber is hand weaving into the Piña cloth". The piña fiber is softer, and has a high luster, and is usually white or softer, and has a high luster, and is usually white or ivory in color.ivory in color.

Production MethodsProduction Methods Scraping a pineapple leaf to reveal the fibers.Scraping a pineapple leaf to reveal the fibers. Since piña is from a leaf, the leaf has to first be Since piña is from a leaf, the leaf has to first be

cut from the plant. Then the fiber is pulled or cut from the plant. Then the fiber is pulled or split away from the leaf. Most leaf fibers are split away from the leaf. Most leaf fibers are long and somewhat stiff.long and somewhat stiff.

UsesUses A major use for piña fabric is in the A major use for piña fabric is in the

creation of the Barong Tagalog and creation of the Barong Tagalog and other formal wear that is common in other formal wear that is common in the Philippines. It is also used for the Philippines. It is also used for other table linens, bags, mats and other table linens, bags, mats and other clothing items, or anytime that a other clothing items, or anytime that a lightweight, but stiff and sheer fabric lightweight, but stiff and sheer fabric is neededis needed..