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Coastal Sediment Transport

CEPD03

Lecture 6

Prof. Dano Roelvink

Dr. Jan van de Graaff

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Contents

• Overview of problems

• Bed shear stress by waves and current

• Sediment transport by waves and current

• Longshore sediment transport• Coastline changes

• Cross-shore sediment transport

• Dune erosion• Sedimentation in channels and trenches

• Stability of channels and inlets

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Cross-shore transport

• Example comparison Delft3D with Delta

Flume test

• Hs= 1.4 m, Tp = 5 s

• Barred profile

• Lots of measurements

• Prototype conditions

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Delft3D

• Process-based model

• 2Dh, 2DV or 3D

• This application 2DV

• Based on wave and roller energy balance,3D shallow water equations, 3D advection-diffusion equation

• Hydrodynamics and concentrationsreasonably well modelled

• Sediment transport rate difficult

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Initial profile

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Velocity

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Sediment concentration

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Example:

hindcast of

Delta Flume

test with

Delft3D

0 20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160 180 2000

0.5

1

1.5HRMS

0 20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160 180 2000

2

4

6

DEPTH

0 20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160 180 200

-0.2

0

0.2

0.4

0.6ETA

0 20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160 180 200-4

-2

0

2

4x 10

-5STOTX

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Concentration profiles

0 1 2 3 4 50

2

4CONCX100

0 1 2 3 4 50

1

2CONCX102

0 1 2 3 4 50

1

2CONCX115

0 1 2 3 4 50

1

2CONCX130

0 1 2 3 4 50

0.5

1CONCX141

0 1 2 3 4 50

0.5

1CONCX145

0 1 2 3 4 50

0.5

1

CONCX160

0 1 2 3 4 50

0.5

CONCX170

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Velocity profiles

-0.2 -0.1 00

2

4 RTFX100

-0.2 -0.1 00

1

2 RTFX102

-0.2 -0.1 00

1

2 RTFX115

-0.2 -0.1 00

1

2

RTFX130

-0.2 -0.1 00

0.5

1

RTFX141

-0.2 -0.1 00

0.5

1

RTFX145

-0.2 -0.1 00

0.5

1

RTFX156

-0.2 -0.1 00

0.5

1

RTFX160

-0.2 -0.1 00

0.5

RTFX170

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Dunes as coastal protection

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Dune erosion

• Fast process

• Dominated by undertow that brings sand

offshore

• Development of steep ‘scarp’ 

• Undercutting by waves followed by

slumping of scarp• Eventually rather flat equilibrium profile

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Dune erosion behaviour

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Behaviour in time

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Scale laws

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Scale series

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Equilibrium profile Vellinga

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Distance dune foot-limit profile

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Dutch dune erosion method

• Scarp 1:1

• eq. profile acc.

to 8.4.1

• ends at 8.4.2

• seaward slope

1:12.5

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sensitive parameters

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 Applying method

• Put equilibrium profile over existing profile

• compute area eroded and area accreted

• if eroded>accreted: shift seaward• if accreted>eroded: shift landward

• find location where eroded=accreted

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Tide and storm surge

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Exceedance frequency

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UCIT

• Universal Coastal Intelligence Toolkit

• Developed at Delft Hydraulics

• Matlab environment• Includes data, analysis tools and models

• Integrated environment

• Open• Easy to extend

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Overview of JARKUS profiles

-1 -0.5 0 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3 3.5 4

x 105

3.5

4

4.5

5

5.5

6

x 105

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Momentary CoastLine MCL

XmklLZK

 : 100.3457 m tov RSP-lijn

-1000010002000300040005000

-30

-20

-10

0

10

20

30

GLW

Xmkl

Kustdwarse afstand [m]

   H  o  o  g   t  e   l   i  g  g   i  n  g   [  m

    t  o  v   N   A   P   ]

MKL zone

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Trend in MCL = TCL

Xtkl(LZK) : 93.8311 m tov RSP-lijn

BKL : 89 m tov RSP-lijn

1965 1970 1975 1980 1985 199060

70

80

90

100

110

120

130

140

150

Jaren

   K  u  s   t   d  w  a  r  s  e  a

   f  s   t  a  n   d   [  m   ]

Momentane Kustlijnen en de te Toetsen Kustlijn (met 95% betrouwb.int.)

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Dune erosion computation

A : 471.9604 m 3 /m1

T : 137.9377 m 3 /m1

P : -108.7258 m tov RSP-lijn

R : -118.2268 m tov RSP-lijn

-800-600-400-2000200400600800

-20

-15

-10

-5

0

5

10

15

20

A

Kustdwarse afstand [m tov RSP]

   H  o  o  g   t  e   l   i  g  g   i  n  g   [  m    t  o

  v   N   A   P   ]

Raai: 4000 Jaar: 1987 Methode: Leidraad Duinafslag - nu (-) Norm: 1 10

-4

 per jaar

afslagzonedepositiezone

P

R

kernzonebeschermingszone zeezijde