Chapter Derby Shoe

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CHAPTER 13: DERBY BLUCHER

Derby Blucher

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Derby Blucher

A Derby Blucher for the shoe designer is one ofthe most satisfying shoe types. On this type of shoehe can design many variations of application. Theclosure of this type of shoe adapts well to the foot, sothat a perfect t can be achieved.

It is this type of shoe that you see a lot from theorthopedics and footwear manufactures, as sport,walking, or comfort shoes. The proper modeling ofthis type of shoe is very important because manypeople wear this type of shoe.

When the last has the right t it can be that by

incorrectly modeling the correct t it can turn out

negatively.

It is possible that two different shoe designers are

modeling on the same last the derby Moliere and that

one shoe designer create a perfect t, while the other

creates the opposite result.

Sometimes in a situation like this they thinking thatthe bad tting of the last cause the wrong look butis in fact a question of wrong modeling. The correctmodeling for standards we explain step by step in thisbook. Drawing a paper pattern in the correct mannerwe ensure proper t of the upper on each type of last.


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1. Toecap

2. Vamp

3. Yelets holes

4. Tongue

5. Medial quarter part

6. Lateral quarter part

A. Folding line

B. Quarter ap line

C. Vamp quarter line

D. Lateral quarter line

E. Medial quarter line

F. Quarter lay-on line

G. Tongue line

H. Quarter back lineJ. Vamp under lay lineK. Trench stitching lineL. Montage folding lineM. Paper copy lineN. Toecap line


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U n d e r - l a

y

Illustraon 1

Illustraon 2

Every pattern part what is stitched UNDER anotherpattern part must have under-lay.

The under-lay is normally 10 mm wide. Illustration2 shows you that the vamp (B) has under-lay for thetoe-puff (A) and the quarter part (C).

For the nish of model lines (cutting edges) wecan make side folding of the upper material. Forside folding we add 5 mm to the pattern parts, seeillustration 3 in blue color.

On upper vamp part B we mark the under-lay lines for the correct stitching from the upper material parts A an C.

Illustraon 3

Derby Blucher


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Dotted line A is the normal quarter line. Quarter Line B is a quarter line that is drawn too low.Quarter Line B will yawn and therefore will stay open from the last, because the lines are very closeto the anks of the last. (Fig.4)

(Fig.4)

(Fig.5)

The modeling of a low shoe type has a medial and lateral quarter line. This is necessary inconnection with the arches; the arch is medially higher than laterally. Both quarter constructionlines indicate how the quarter lines must be drawn. (Fig.5)

Derby Blucher


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(Fig.6)

On Illustration 1, the “quarter back part line” is a line that must t perfectly on the last.It is very important that we draw the “quarterback part line”, 3 mm inside the paper copy.

At the heel height we draw the “quarter backpart line” 2 mm outside the paper copy inorder to give space for the counter between thelining and upper leather .

On illustration 2, you see the “quarter backpart line” too round and therefore point B willnot t on the last and gives too much space for

the counter. Point A is drawn too much insidethe paper pattern and this will damage the feet.

On illustration 3, you see that the “quarter

back part line” by point A is not drawn insideof the paper pattern. The feet will slip out of theshoe during walking.


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Fig.7)

The quarter aps from the Blucher Derby must follow as close as possible to the construction linesof the paper copy (A).The vamp quarter line we draw 4 mm below the lateral quarter line in order toget enough and good instep space. (See fg.7).

(Fig.8)

Fig. 8, see the correct quarter aps from a Blucher Derby on the last shape.


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(Fig.9)

The quarter aps from the Blucher Derby are drawn to round below the construction lines (A). Thiswill result in an ugly look for this type of shoe (Fig.9).

(Fig.10)

Fig.10, see the quarter aps from a Blucher Derby on the last shape when the lines are not correctlydrawn.


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(Fig.11)

Illustration 1, the lay-on lines we draw in away that we have enough space on the quarterbetween the quarter line and lay-on line, for

adding an application stitching.

The trenches we stitch on the quarters are 12mm long for thin calf leather, and 15 mm longfor thicker leather. The trenches we stitch 10 mmabove the lay-on line.

On illustration 2 , you see point A is the normallay-on line. B is drawn too low and the quarterpart at this point looks too heavy and not nice.

On Illustration 3, you see A as the normal lay-on line. B is drawn too high and the quarter partat this point is too small and the look is not nice.


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Derby Blucher

(Fig. 12)

After we have drawn the quarter part and

trenches we set-up the folding line points.(A folding line is the line where we fold the paper in order to make the vamp and other parts of the paper patterns).

The folding point for the vamp we set-up with awinkle.

- The winkle we place on line A. at the

top of the paper copy (Fig.12).(See Fig.2, on Page 96, Line A is the line

through point C1 and point F)

- Point C is at the end of the trench

from the quarter part.

In this way we nd the exact space neededbetween the medial and lateral trenches.Point B is the correct folding point for the vamp.

Both quarters (medial and lateral) must have

the correct space between the trenchesotherwise the upper will not t correctly on thelast.

The leather between the trenches will showwrinkles and after the last is pull out from thenished shoe the shoe will show a bad and uglyshape.


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(Fig.13

Fig.13, point 1 we found with the winkle, point2 we nd at the top of the last and set-up on thepaper pattern, 3 mm inside of the paper copy. The measurement for point 2 is the distancebetween the sole side and the nose-top of thelast. At this point 2, the folding line lay under thelast copy. Here we save leather material andby montage the upper on the last we get fewer

wrinkles. The leather between the trenches on

the vamp by a Blucher is not stitched. Thereforea folding line drawn at the nose-point under thepaper copy will give extra force to the anks ofthe last and the vamp will not be pushed toomuch to the front. By montage of the upper onthe last, it will be easier when front part of theupper is already looking downwards (through thecorrect folding line) and easy to place between

the grips of the molding machine.

(Fig.14)

After nding the points 1 and 2 we can draw the folding line 3 on the paper pattern (Fig.14).


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(Fig.15)

Fig.15 shows clearly how we need to drawn a folding line for a Blucher Derby.

Winkle A, is the correct way, equal to the copy line C1-F.

Winkle B, is in the wrong way, too low and under the instep point.

Winkle C, is in the wrong way, too high above the instep point.

It is VERY IMPORTANT that you set-up the folding line correct, by not set-up the folding line correctlyit will inuence the tting and the look of the shoe in a very negative way.


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Derby Blucher

(Fig.16)

(Fig.17)

For the montage of the upper on the last weneed to fold the upper material on the insole.How much we need to extend on the uppermaterial depends on;

1. The thickness of the insole

2. The thickness of upper leather and

lining

3. The system we use for the

montage of the shoe.

As standard norm we use for folding 16 mm, atthe shank part 18 mm and at the nose part15 mm. (See Fig.16)

The length for the tongue we can measureexactly. Measure the length from the end of thetrench point A and instep point B. Then from thesame trench point A we set out the same lengthto the folding vamp line point C. We extend this

length by 10 mm. During the montage of theupper on the last point C will be pushed a fewmm to the front. The reason for this is that thevamp and the quarter part between the trenchesare not stitched together. (See Fig.17)


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(Fig.18)

When we know the correct measurement of thetongue we can draw the tongue line with a smallcurve between the quarter help lines.

Depending on the shoe size the tongue isbetween 6 and 7 cm wide (see A).

Draw the tongue line to the end of the trenchesand then continue the drawing line with a distanceof 10 mm the lay-on help line (See Fig.18).

(Fig.19)

Fig.19 shows you how we need todesign the tongue of the shoe.

The feet get during the day bigger,around 5%. The quarter aps willget more distance from each otherby point B.

The tongue must protect our feet bypoint A.

A tongue that is wide enough willprotect our feet better and giveus also the possibility to place asofter material when necessary byexostosis.


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(Fig.20)

When we draw the tongue we make several timesthe mistake at the beginning of folded vamp line.The tongue line we draw is too small at this place

and the feet gets less protection especially at therst point of eyelets and laces (See Fig.20).

(Fig.21)

Also it happens that we draw the tongue line tooround, (see by point B) here count the same aswe explain by Fig.20.

Draw always the tongue line at the folded vampline a little curved as you can see on page 113(Fig.19)


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(Fig.22)

The small lace or eyelet holes we set-up in general 10 to 12 mm from the sides of the quarter aps.The distance between them is around 15 mm.We must take care that we don’t put them toclose to the sides, because during the closing ofthe laces we risk that they will tear out.

When we want to put bigger lace or eyeletsholes we must add them with greater distancesfrom each other. Reinforce the quarter aps,especially when you use thin upper leathers. (Fig.22)

(Fig.23)

It is VERY IMPORTANT that the quarter toppart lines (see A and B) are drawn UNDER themedial and lateral quarter help lines. Whenyou draw these points A and B higher, than the

shoe it will damage the ankle and make it almostimpossible to walk (Fig.23).Later in this book I will explain how to draw thesequarter top part lines for Sportive shoes.


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Derby Blucher

(Fig.24)

To draw the quarter lining must be done verycarefully. The quarter lining must t perfectly inthe upper quarter part. The patterns for the liningwe make 4 mm bigger at the quarter aps asthen we can stitch the lining better to the uppermaterial. Especially take care at the end of the

trenches points as at those points the quarterand vamp lining must t together. At the backpart of the quarter we must take in (shorten), thecounter must t between the lining and uppermaterial. By not shorten enough will lead to manywrinkles in the back part of the shoe (Fig.24).

(Fig.25)

The vamp lining we draw 2 mm under the foldingline at the nose-part from the upper material. At the tongue we make the vamp lining 2 mmlarger for stitching the vamp lining to the upper.By the end of the trenches both parts(quarter and vamp) of the lining t perfectly

together. At the side parts, the quarter and vamplining overlay is 10 mm.These parts we stitch rst together and after thatwe place and glue the lining inside of the upper. After stitching we remove the extra lining fromthe upper material (Fig.25).

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Chapter Derby Shoe

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