20
3rd Edition
dayBYday®Chicago
by Laura Tiebert
Contents 16 Favorite Moments 1
1 The Best Full-Day Tours 9The Best in One Day 10The Best in Two Days 16The Best in Three Days 22
2 The Best Special-Interest Tours 27The Loop: An Architectural Tour 28Mag Mile: An Architectural Tour 34Navy Pier & Environs for Kids 38The Art Institute of Chicago 42Museum of Science & Industry 46
3 The Best Neighborhood Walks 49The Gold Coast 50Old Town 54Bucktown & Wicker Park 58Hyde Park 64
4 The Best Shopping 69Shopping Best Bets 70Shopping A to Z 75
5 The Best of the Outdoors 85Indiana Dunes 86Chicago Lakeshore 90
6 The Best Dining 95Dining Best Bets 96Restaurants A to Z 100
7 The Best Nightlife 107Nightlife Best Bets 108Nightlife A to Z 113
8 The Best Arts & Entertainment 119Arts & Entertainment Best Bets 120Arts & Entertainment A to Z 125
9 The Best Hotels 131Hotel Best Bets 132Hotels A to Z 136
10 The Best Day Trips & Excursions 145Oak Park 146Evanston 150
The Savvy Traveler 153Before You Go 154Getting There 159Getting Around 160Fast Facts 162Chicago: A Brief History 169Chicago’s Architecture 171Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 176
Index 178
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5 4 3 2 1
A Note from the Editorial DirectorOrganizing your time. That’s what this guide is all about.
Other guides give you long lists of things to see and do and then expect you to fit the pieces together. The Day by Day guides are different. These guides tell you the best of everything, and then they show you how to see it in the smartest, most time-efficient way. Our authors have designed detailed itineraries organized by time, neighborhood, or special interest. And each tour comes with a bulleted map that takes you from stop to stop.
Hoping to see the magnificent architecture of the Windy City, or to tour the highlights of the Museum of Science and Industry or the Art Institute of Chicago? Planning a walk through the Gold Coast, or a whirlwind tour of the very best that Chicago has to offer? Whatever your interest or schedule, the Day by Days give you the smartest routes to follow. Not only do we take you to the top attractions, hotels, and restaurants, but we also help you access those special moments that locals get to experience—those “finds” that turn tourists into travelers.
The Day by Days are also your top choice if you’re looking for one complete guide for all your travel needs. The best hotels and res-taurants for every budget, the greatest shopping values, the wild-est nightlife—it’s all here.
Why should you trust our judgment? Because our authors person-ally visit each place they write about. They’re an independent lot who say what they think and would never include places they wouldn’t recommend to their best friends. They’re also open to suggestions from readers. If you’d like to contact them, please send your com-ments our way at [email protected], and we’ll pass them on.
Enjoy your Day by Day guide—the most helpful travel companion you can buy. And have the trip of a lifetime.
Warm regards,
Kelly Regan, Editorial Director Frommer’s Travel Guides
vi
About the AuthorLaura Tiebert is a freelance writer whose travels have taken her from the frozen tundra of Dawson City in Yukon Territory to the wide sand beaches of Muscat, Oman. Today, she stays a bit closer to home in Wilmette, Illinois, where she lives with her husband and two sons. She is the author of Frommer’s Chicago with Kids and Chicago For Dummies.
Advisory & DisclaimerTravel information can change quickly and unexpectedly, and we strongly advise you to confirm important details locally before traveling, including information on visas, health and safety, traffic and transport, accommoda-tions, shopping, and eating out. We also encourage you to stay alert while traveling and to remain aware of your surroundings. Avoid civil distur-bances, and keep a close eye on cameras, purses, wallets, and other valuables. While we have endeavored to ensure that the information contained within this guide is accurate and up-to-date at the time of publication, we make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this work and specifically disclaim all war-ranties, including without limitation warranties of fitness for a particular purpose. We accept no responsibility or liability for any inaccuracy or errors or omissions, or for any inconvenience, loss, damage, costs, or expenses of any nature whatsoever incurred or suffered by anyone as a result of any advice or information contained in this guide. The inclusion of a company, organization, or website in this guide as a service provider and/or potential source of further information does not mean that we endorse them or the information they provide. Be aware that information provided through some websites may be unreliable and can change without notice. Neither the publisher nor author shall be liable for any damages arising herefrom.
Star Ratings, Icons & AbbreviationsEvery hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star- rating system. Hotels, restaurants, attractions, shopping, and nightlife are rated on a scale of zero stars (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use a = icon to point out the best bets for families. Within each tour, we recommend cafes, bars, or restaurants where you can take a break. Each of these stops appears in a shaded box marked with a coffee-cup-shaped bullet P.
The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
vii
Travel Resources at Frommers.comFrommer’s travel resources don’t end with this guide. Frommer’s website, www.frommers.com, has travel information on more than 4,000 destina-tions. We update features regularly, giving you access to the most current trip-planning information and the best airfare, lodging, and car-rental bar-gains. You can also listen to podcasts, connect with other Frommers.com members through our active-reader forums, share your travel photos, read blogs from guidebook editors and fellow travelers, and much more.
A Note on PricesIn the “Take a Break” and “Best Bets” sections of this book, we have used a system of dollar signs to show a range of costs for 1 night in a hotel (the price of a double-occupancy room) or the cost of an entree at a restaurant. Use the following table to decipher the dollar signs:
Cost Hotels Restaurants $ under $125 under $15 $$ $125–$300 $15–$30 $$$ $300–$450 $30–$45 $$$$ $450–$600 $45–$60 $$$$$ over $600 over $60
How to Contact UsIn researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Chicago, Day by Day, 3rd EditionJohn Wiley & Sons, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
16 Favorite Moments
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Previous page: The Buckingham Fountain and the Chicago skyline.
316 Favorite M
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that lights have been installed, the Cubs play night games, but Wrigley is still best experienced on a sum-mer afternoon, when you’ll be sur-rounded by plenty of natives playing hooky from work—a Windy City tra-dition. See p 26, 7.
2 Take a ride on our famous “El” train. Our elevated train is not only the least expensive ride in town, but also an experience that can be had only in Chicago. For the best views, board the Brown Line at Washing-ton/Wells, and ride it around the Loop through the canyons of office buildings (you’ll be close enough to peer into some of them). It’ll take less than 30 minutes of your touring time, it’s inexpensive, and kids love it. See p 11, 1.
3 Sample the Midwest’s best farm-grown foods at the Chicago Green City Market. Founded by prominent Chicago chefs, this Lin-coln Park market allows regular folks to buy the same organic and sustainably grown foods that will
1 Take yourself out to the ball-game at Wrigley Field. Our historic ballpark approaches perfection with its ivy-covered walls, hand-operated scoreboard, and view of the jade-colored, glassy waters of Lake Michi-gan from the upper decks. Now
Frank Sinatra once proclaimed Chicago his kind of town. It will be yours as well. Awaiting you in the Windy City are new dis-
coveries and favorite places you’ll want to visit again and again, from riding the “El” to singing along with the crowds at Wrigley Field’s seventh-inning stretch. In this section, I describe some quintessen-tial Chicago experiences that just might become part of your family’s vacation lore. They’ll make Chicago your kind of town, too.
Historic Wrigley Field, home of the Chi-cago Cubs and the best seventh-inning stretch in baseball.
Come to Buddy Guy’s for the soul food and stay for the fantastic music.
516 Favorite M
oments
6 Stroll the lakefront and ogle our inland ocean. Chicago’s forefa-thers had the foresight to keep the city’s 29 miles of lakefront free and clear of development. As a result, you can bike, rollerblade, jog, or walk along Lake Michigan and enjoy a chain of parks that includes Chica-go’s signature Lincoln Park and Grant Park. See p 90.
7 Admire our renowned skyline on a boat cruise along the Chicago River and Lake Michigan. The best way to get a perspective on Chica-go’s history and learn about the dra-matic buildings that form the city’s skyline is to take an architecture boat tour. Some of the best are run by the Chicago Architecture Foun-dation, covering some 40 buildings with entertaining and enlightening narrative from an army of well-versed docents. See p 17, 1.
8 Check out the wares on the Magnificent Mile. Shopping is the thing on Michigan Avenue, and you can easily while away a day browsing and buying your way up the avenue. Other areas of the city offer chic boutiques and hard-to-find antiques and vintage clothing, but for a huge selection offering something for
appear on plates in the best restau-rants in town. There’s music, live cooking demonstrations, and a chance to sample French-style crepes made to order with market ingredients. See p 24, 2.
4 Marvel at the intricate pointil-lism of Seurat’s A Sunday on the Island of La Grande Jatte and other masterpieces at Chicago’s grande dame of museums, the Art Institute. You’ll find Seurat’s work in the renowned Impressionist collec-tion, which also features one of the world’s largest displays of Monet paintings. Your second stop should be the collections of European and American contemporary art, home to works by Picasso, Matisse, Dalí, Pollock, and Warhol. See p 42.
5 Get the blues at one of the city’s many great music joints. At B.L.U.E.S., stellar female performers are the draw. At Buddy Guy’s Leg-ends, the Louisiana-style soul food and barbecue makes it worth arriv-ing early and settling in for the eve-ning. If you visit Chicago in January, don’t miss out on a performance by the legendary guitarist who owns this place; but book ahead—the shows sell out well in advance. See p 116.
The Green City Market is a great place to interact with locals while you pick up some fresh produce.
Georges Seurat’s pointillist masterpiece, A Sunday on the Island of La Grande Jatte.
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Mom
ents
City excels in long-form improvisa-tional comedy. Ensembles change frequently, so check the local news-papers for reviews of the latest offering. And, if you like your history mixed with humor (and who doesn’t?), don’t miss The Second City’s Neighborhood Tour of Old Town, which gives you a glimpse into the neighborhood’s architec-ture and history, plus some insider info on Second City alumni and their legendary hangouts and real-life antics. See p 126.
! Grip the edge of your seat at a Chicago theater company perfor-mance. Whether you choose a pro-duction by the Steppenwolf Theatre Company, Goodman Theatre, or a
everyone, the Magnificent Mile is your best bet. See p 71.
9 Explore the outdoor architec-tural museum that is Oak Park. If you have a passion for architecture or literature, you’ll find plenty of sights to see in this suburb on the western border of the city. Ernest Heming-way was born here, and his home and a museum offer insight into Oak Park’s most famous native son. But most visitors are drawn to the Frank Lloyd Wright Home & Studio, and to the homes lining Oak Park’s well-maintained streets that the famous architect designed. See p 146.
0 Share a laugh at The Second City. Training ground for the coun-try’s best comedians, The Second
When the weather is warm, Chicagoans flock to the lakefront.
Second City is home to some of the country’s best up-and-coming comedians.
716 Favorite M
oments
vie for the open mic. Most nights, though, jazz is on the menu from about 9pm ’til the wee hours, so sink into a plush velvet booth and enjoy. See p 118.
% Get snout-to-nose with the baby belugas at John G. Shedd Aquarium. The world’s largest indoor aquarium is a city treasure. Buy a ticket for the Aquatic Show at the Oceanarium, which re-creates a Pacific Northwest coastal environ-ment and features a wall of win-dows that reveals the lake outside
smaller venue such as Victory Gar-dens Theater, don’t miss a chance to see what might be the next big hit to move to Broadway. See p 127.
@ Climb aboard a captured U-boat at the Museum of Science and Industry, the granddaddy of interactive museums. The U-505, captured in 1944 and brought to the museum 10 years later, is only one of 2,000 exhibits. It’s easy to spend a day here, especially if you take in an Omnimax movie, located in the Henry Crown Space Center, where you can also hop aboard a simulator to experience a space shuttle flight. See p 46.
# Explore Hyde Park’s Gothic quadrangle and magnificent man-sions. Home to the University of Chicago, with its 73 Nobel laureates, intimidating buildings with Gothic spires, and hallowed academic halls, Hyde Park is sure to impress. Off campus, Hyde Park is an integrated, cosmopolitan neighborhood that’s home to one of Frank Lloyd Wright’s finest works, the Robie House. See p 64.
$ Take in jazz or a poetry slam at Green Mill. This popular water-ing hole of the 1920s and 1930s still retains its speak-easy flavor. On Sunday night, Green Mill hosts the Uptown Poetry Slam, where poets
A lake cruise is a great way to gain an appreciation of Chicago’s architecture.
Shoppers can easily spend all day wan-dering the Magnificent Mile.
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orite
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ents
Don’t miss Cloud Gate, the huge elliptical sculpture by British artist Anish Kapoor, in which you can examine your reflection in funhouse-like distortions. While you’re here, make sure to catch a show at the stunning Frank Gehry–designed Pritzker Music Pavilion, home to free summer concerts performed by the Grant Park Symphony Orchestra. See p 12, 7. •
and creates the illusion of one unin-terrupted expanse of sea (that’s where you’ll find those baby belu-gas and dolphins). Another all-time favorite is watching the diver feed the sea creatures in the Caribbean Reef during the free shows four times daily. See p 19, k.
^ Interact with the sculpture at Millennium Park, the city’s newest urban showpiece and now one of its most popular tourist attractions.
The WWII U-boat on display at the Museum of Science and Industry.
The Shedd Aquarium’s Caribbean Reef.
1 The Best Full-Day Tours
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St.
N. C
lark
St.
S. W
abas
h A
ve.
S. M
ichi
gan
Ave
.
Col
umb
us D
r.
W. Grand Ave.
S. L
aSal
le S
t.
W. Roosevelt Rd.
E. Wacker Dr.
E. Randolph Dr.W. Randolph St.
N. C
lark
St.
N. L
aSal
le S
t.
N. D
earb
orn
St.N. W
ells
St.
N. W
abas
h A
ve.
S. W
abas
h A
ve.
N. M
ichi
gan
Ave
.S.
Mic
higa
n A
ve.
W. Ohio St.
W. Monroe St.
S. S
tate
St.
Col
umbu
s D
r.
N. O
rlea
ns S
t.
N. F
rank
lin S
t.W. Kinzie St.
EisenhowerExpwy.
W. Madison St.
Col
umb
us
D
r.
W. Washington St.
G R A N T
MILLENNIUM
PARK
P A R K
N. Kingsbury
Art Instituteof Chicago Willis
TowerUnionStation
Post Office
STREETER-VILLE
RIVER NORTH
T H E
L O O P
SOUTH LOOP
7
MerchandiseMart
E. Jackson Dr.
1/4 mi
0.25 km
0
0N
1 Brown Line “El” Washington/Wells Station
Macy’s
Reliance Building
Atwood Cafe
Miro's Chicago
Chicago Public Library/Harold Washington Library Center
Millennium Park
Art Institute of Chicago
The Gage
Michigan Avenue Bridge
4
9
2
3
5
6
7
8
10
1
8
5
2
6
10
4
9
3
290
55
94
90
94
41
41
90
C H I C A G O
La
ke
Mi c
hi g
an
3 mi0
WrigleyField
U.S. CellularField
Midway
Map area
The Best in One Day
Previous page: A view of Millennium Park.
