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CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 Asia Distribution and Retail Jun 2019 PART 1: MARKET OVERVIEW AND COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE ANALYSIS
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Page 1: CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 PART1...CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 Asia Distribution and Retail Jun 2019 PART 1: MARKET OVERVIEW AND COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE ANALYSISKEY TAKEAWAYS

CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019

Asia Distribution and Retail

Jun 2019

PART 1: MARKET OVERVIEW AND COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE ANALYSIS

Page 2: CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 PART1...CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 Asia Distribution and Retail Jun 2019 PART 1: MARKET OVERVIEW AND COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE ANALYSISKEY TAKEAWAYS

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Key Takeaways……………………………………….p1

Market Overview…………………………………p2

Movement of Local Apparel Brands………..p13

Movement of Foreign Apparel Brands….p27

Page 3: CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 PART1...CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 Asia Distribution and Retail Jun 2019 PART 1: MARKET OVERVIEW AND COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE ANALYSISKEY TAKEAWAYS

KEY TAKEAWAYS

1

China’s apparel market faces headwinds

• The apparel market continued its uptrend in 2018, posting the highest yoy growth since 2014

• However, mounting economic uncertainty is posing significant challenges for the apparel market

• Sales growth of the market is estimated to decelerate to 3.5% and 3.2% in 2019 and 2020 respectively

Womenswear remains the largest sub-sector ; childrenswear and sportswear show vast growth potential

• Both womenswear and menswear sectors have shown some improvements in sales after several years of decline led by growing saturation

• Childrenswear has delivered strong growth momentum following the full implementation of two-child policy starting January 2016

• Sportswear posts the highest sales growth among all other key apparel sectors

• But due to overall macro uncertainty, sales growth of all apparel sub-sectors is expected to decline in 2019.

Specialist retailers, department stores take hold in China apparel distribution

• Apparel sales at department stores have been falling over the years amid stiffer market competition and challenges from e-commerce players

• Internet retailing has kept delivering strong growth in recent years, making it the fastest-growing retailing channel in China’s apparel market

Market share of top 5 apparel brands, 2018

1. Adidas, 1.9%

2. Nike, 1.9%

3. HLA, 1.1%

4. Uniqlo, 1.0%

5. Anta, 1.0%

Local apparel brands accelerate expansion at home and abroad

• Diversifying product lines to increase market size to invigorate brand values

• Launching flagship stores and concept stores to boost brand image

• Entering new markets and expanding store networks overseas to ramp up international presence

Foreign apparel brands seek opportunities in China; yet, some struggle to make headway

• Foreign players continue to crack the lucrative China market

• A number of players have expanded local store networks and launched their first/ largest global flagship store in the country

• Yet, some failed to make a profit and finally exited the market

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2

Market Overview

Page 5: CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 PART1...CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 Asia Distribution and Retail Jun 2019 PART 1: MARKET OVERVIEW AND COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE ANALYSISKEY TAKEAWAYS

MARKET OVERVIEW- CHINA’S APPAREL MARKET FACES HEADWINDS

Sales of apparel in China, 2014-2020

Source: Euromonitor International; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

3

1,622.8 1,714.1 1,810.0 1,927.9 2,077.4 2,149.9 2,217.8

6.2%

5.6% 5.6%

6.5%

7.8%

3.5%3.2%

0%

1%

2%

3%

4%

5%

6%

7%

8%

9%

0

500

1,000

1,500

2,000

2,500

2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019e 2020e

billion yuan yoy growth

China’s apparel sales reached 2,077.4 billion yuanin 2018, increasing at a rate of 7.8% yoy, the highest yoy growth since 2014.

Driven in part by the consumption upgrading trend and stable demand among local consumers with improved living standard and higher income growth, the apparel market regained its growth momentum in 2017 and continued the uptrend in 2018.

However, mounting economic uncertainty is posing significant challenges for the apparel market. Sales growth of China’s apparel market is estimated to decelerate to 3.5% and 3.2% in 2019 and 2020 respectively

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SALES OF KEY SUB-SECTORS

By category, womenswear remained the largest sub-sector of China’s apparel market in terms of sales in 2018.

Both sportswear and childrenswearsaw double-digit yoy sales growth in 2018, outperforming that of womenswear and menswear. But due to overall macro uncertainty, sales growth of all apparel sub-sectors is expected to drop significantly in 2019.

Sales of key sub-sectors of China’s apparel market, 2014-2020

Source: Euromonitor International; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

4

783.8828.9

873.8928.5

999.11025.7 1048.8

470.3 491.7 512.0537.7

572.6 583.5 592.8

127.1 140.0 157.1 180.0209.1

234.7261.0

148.3 166.9 190.4221.5

264.8 286.7 310.4

0%

5%

10%

15%

20%

25%

0

200

400

600

800

1000

1200

2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019e 2020e

bill

ion

yu

an

Sales of womenswear Sales of menswear Sales of childrenswear

Sales of sportswear yoy growth of womenswear yoy growth of menswear

yoy growth of childrenswear yoy growth of sportswear

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SALES OF KEY SUB-SECTORS - WOMENSWEAR: YOY GROWTH PICKS UP IN 2018

5

Sales of womenswear in China’s apparel market, 2014-2019

Source: Euromonitor International; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

Market share of womenswear in China’s apparel market, 2018

48.1%

Source: Euromonitor International; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

After several years of decline as a result of growing saturation, the womenswear sector picked up pace in 2017 and 2018 with sales growth rising to 6.3% yoy and 7.6% in 2017 and 2018 respectively.

That said, due to the overall market uncertainty, sales growth of womenswear is estimated to drop significantly to 2.7% in 2019.

783.8828.9

873.8928.5

999.1 1025.7

7.4%

5.8% 5.4%6.3% 7.6%

2.7%

0%

5%

10%

15%

20%

0

200

400

600

800

1,000

1,200

2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019e

bill

ion

yu

an

Sales of womenswear yoy growth of womenswear

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470.3 491.7 512.0537.7

572.6 583.5

3.8%

4.6%

2.8%

5.0%6.5%

1.9%0%

5%

10%

15%

20%

0

200

400

600

800

1000

2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019e

bill

ion

yu

an

Sales of menswear yoy growth of menswear

SALES OF KEY SUB-SECTORS - MENSWEAR: SHOWS SOME SIGNS OF IMPROVEMENTS IN 2018

6

Sales of menswear in China’s apparel market, 2014-2019

Source: Euromonitor International; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

Market share of menswear in China’s apparel market, 2018

27.6%

Source: Euromonitor International; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

Menswear has the second largest market share in China’s apparel market, just behind womenswear. In 2018, sales of menswear represented 27.6% of the total apparel sales in China.

Similar to the womenswear sector, the menswear sector has also become increasingly saturated. It showed some improvements in sales in 2017 and 2018. However, as with the womenswear sector, sales growth is expected to drop significantly this year due to the uncertain market economic environment.

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SALES OF KEY SUB-SECTORS - CHILDRENSWEAR: TWO-CHILD POLICY SHORES UP GROWTH MOMENTUM

7

Sales of childrenswear in China’s apparel market, 2014-2019

Source: Euromonitor International; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

Market share of childrenswear in China’s apparel market, 2018

10.1%

Source: Euromonitor International; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

Although childrenswear took up only 10.1% share in China’s apparel market, the sector has delivered strong growth momentum following the full implementation of two-child policy starting January 2016.

The National Health and Family Planning Commission predicted that the number of newborns to reach 17.5 – 21.0 million annually during the 13th FYP period (2016 – 2020), up from the annual births at around 16 million between 2003 and 2013. Baby and toddler wear is expected to be the main powerhouse for the childrenswear sector.

127.1140.0

157.1 180.0209.1 234.7

9.2%

7.9%

6.0%

14.6%

16.2%

12.2%

0%

5%

10%

15%

20%

0

200

400

600

800

1000

2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019e

bill

ion

yu

an

Sales of childrenswear yoy growth of childrenswear

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SALES OF KEY SUB-SECTORS - SPORTSWEAR: STRONGEST SALES GROWTH AMONG OTHER KEY SUB-SECTORS IN 2018

8

Sales of sportswear in China’s apparel market, 2014-2019

Source: Euromonitor International; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

Market share of sportswear in China’s apparel market, 2018

12.7%

Source: Euromonitor International; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

Sportswear registered sales growth of 19.5% yoy in 2018, well above the total apparel sales growth of 7.8% yoy. Sportswear also posted the highest sales growth among all other key apparel sectors, indicating its vast growth potential.

148.3 166.9 190.4221.5

264.8 286.7

10.1% 12.5%

14.1%

16.3%

19.5%

8.3%

0%

5%

10%

15%

20%

0

200

400

600

800

1000

2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019e

bill

ion

yu

an

Sales of sportswear yoy growth of sportswear

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SALES OF KEY SUB-SECTORS - SPORTSWEAR: STRONGEST SALES GROWTH AMONG OTHER KEY SUB-SECTORS

9

Sportswear (apparel and footwear) sales by category, 2018

Source: Euromonitor International; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

By category, sports-inspired footwear and sports-inspired apparel are the two largest segments in China’s sportswear market. The combined sales of the two segments totaled 144.5 billion yuan in 2018, or around 54.5 % of the total sportswear sales in China.

The propelling growth in the sportswear sector is mainly driven by the following factors:• Rising levels of health and well-being awareness

and increased sports participation.• Government policies to promote national health

and sports participation serve as a boost to the sports industry. Recent policies include the “2016-2020 National Fitness Plan” released in June 2016; the “13th Five Year Plan for the Development of Sports Industry” released in July 2016; and the “Guiding Opinions of the State Council on Speeding up the Development of the Competitive Sports Industry” released in December 2018.

Performance apparel , 14.8%

Outdoor apparel ,

7.5%

Sports-inspired apparel , 21.5%

Performance footwear ,

19.3%

Outdoor footwear ,

3.8%

Sports-inspired

footwear, 33.0%

264.8 billion yuan, up 19.5% yoy

Page 12: CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 PART1...CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 Asia Distribution and Retail Jun 2019 PART 1: MARKET OVERVIEW AND COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE ANALYSISKEY TAKEAWAYS

DISTRIBUTION CHANNELS- SPECIALIST RETAILERS, DEPARTMENT STORES TAKE HOLD IN CHINA APPAREL DISTRIBUTION

(in %) 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018

Store-based retailing 87.5 81.5 76.2 71.4 68.1

I. Grocery retailers 4.8 4.0 3.3 2.6 2.1

II. Non-grocery retailers 44.1 42.2 41.1 39.8 39.6

• Clothing and footwear specialist retailers 20.8 20.7 20.5 20.2 20.0

• Leisure and personal goods specialist retailers 11.8 11.5 11.8 12.1 12.6

• Other non-grocery retailers 11.5 10.1 8.7 7.5 7.1

III. Mixed retailers 38.6 35.3 31.9 29.0 26.4

• Department stores 38.6 35.3 31.9 29.0 26.4

Non-store retailing 12.5 18.5 23.8 28.6 31.9

IV. Home shopping 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1

V. Internet retailing 12.4 18.4 23.7 28.5 31.8

Total 100 100 100 100 100

Market share (retail sales) by distribution channel for apparel and footwear in China, 2014-2018

Source: Euromonitor International; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

Apparel sales at department stores have been falling over the years amid intensifying market competition and challenges from e-commerce players.

Internet retailing has kept delivering strong growth over the past few years, making it the fastest-growing retailing channel in China’s apparel market. The channel is predicted to keep growing at a faster rate in the coming years.

10

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COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE- TOP 10 APPAREL BRANDS IN CHINA

11

Market share Market share

(yoy change, ppt)Major category

1. Adidas 1.9% ↑ 0.3 Sportswear

2. Nike 1.9% ↑ 0.3 Sportswear

3. HLA 1.1% ↑ 0.1 Menswear

4. Uniqlo 1.0% ↑ 0.1 Womenswear, menswear, childrenswear

5. Anta 1.0% ↑ 0.2 Sportswear

6. Li Ning 0.6% -- Sportswear

7. Skechers 0.6% ↑ 0.2 Sportswear

8. Balabala 0.5% ↑ 0.1 Childrenswear

9. Jack & Jones 0.5% -- Menswear

10. Xtep 0.5% ↑ 0.1 Sportswear

Market share of Top 10 apparel brands in China, 2018

Source: Euromonitor International; modified by Fung Business Intelligence

Page 14: CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 PART1...CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 Asia Distribution and Retail Jun 2019 PART 1: MARKET OVERVIEW AND COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE ANALYSISKEY TAKEAWAYS

COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE- TOP 10 APPAREL BRANDS IN CHINA

12

Average market cap in 2018

(billion yuan)

Operating income in 2018(billion yuan)

Major category

1. Anta 90.43 23.41 Sportswear

2. HLA 47.81 19.09 Menswear

3. Semir 27.72 15.75Menswear, womenswear,

childrenswear

4. Li Ning 15.40 10.51 Sportswear

5. Dazzle Fashion 12.68 2.10 Womenswear

6. Hongdou Group 12.63 2.48 Menswear

7. Peacebird 12.44 7.71 Menswear, womenswear

8. Bosideng 9.16 11.99 Down wear

9. Xtep 8.87 6.20 Sportswear

10. Lilanz 8.46 3.60 Menswear

Top 10 listed apparel companies in China (by market cap), 2018

Source: iiMedia; modified by Fung Business Intelligence

Page 15: CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 PART1...CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 Asia Distribution and Retail Jun 2019 PART 1: MARKET OVERVIEW AND COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE ANALYSISKEY TAKEAWAYS

Movement of local apparel brands

13

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LOCAL BRANDS ACCELELATING EXPANSION IN CHINADiversifying product lines to increase market size to invigorate brand values

– selected cases

14

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COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE- MOVEMENT OF LOCAL APPAREL BRANDS (EXPANSION)

15Source: News, Companies’ websites; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

In April 2018, JNBY launchedSAMO, a designer fashionbrand targeting professionalmale customers in China. Thephilosophy of the newmenswear brand is “simplified,but better”. SAMO’s designfocuses on elegance, simplicity,charming and versatility.

Diversifying product lines to increase market size to invigorate brand values

– JNBY unveils new fashion brands starting from April 2018

In June 2018, JNBY announcedthe launch of a newsustainable fashion brand“REVERB” in China. Targetingyoung and fashionablemillennials, the brand putsstrong focus on socialresponsibility and sustainability.

REVERB embraces “circularfashion” as its brandphilosophy, focusing on thedesign concepts of “Athleisure,Genderless and Sustainability”.All apparel items from REVERBuses natural materials withorganic certification and high-tech materials certified bySwiss Bluesign Standard.

In February 2019, JNBY rolledout a new menswear designerbrand “A Personal Note 73” .The brand targets young andaspirational consumers withknowledge about fashion anddesign.

Italian fashion designer AndreaPompilio, will design twocollections a year for the newbrand, with the first collectionavailable in fall 2019. JNBYplans to open 10 stores in 2019,with one-third of them in tier-1cities.

SAMO’s promotional material

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COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE- MOVEMENT OF LOCAL APPAREL BRANDS (EXPANSION)

16Source: News, Companies’ websites; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

In December 2018, JNBY announced to launch amulti-brand store “LA SU MIN SO LA” for designerbrands in China, a move to align with the company’smulti-brand strategy and expand its businessesthough horizontal diversification.

LA SU MIN SO LA will serve as a platform fordesigner brands to showcase their products.Adopting the concept “Better Design, Better Life”,the store will operate as an incubator for designerbrands and help international designer brands adaptto local operation.

LA SU MIN SO LA’s product lines cover variouscategories, including clothing, footwear, handbag,accessories and lifestyle products.

Diversifying product lines to increase market size to invigorate brand values

– JNBY to launch multi-brand store “LA SU MIN SO LA” in December 2018

LA SU MIN SO LA’s marketing material

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COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE- MOVEMENT OF LOCAL APPAREL BRANDS (EXPANSION)

17Source: News, Companies’ websites; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

In January 2018, OVV and AEX, womenswear brandand menswear brand under HLA opened its firstphysical store, which signifies further landing of theGroup's multi-brand strategy.

Currently, OVV and AEX’s target markets are mainlythe tier-2 and tier-3 cities. Since 2017, HLA hasaccelerated its multi-brand, multi-category andmulti-channel investment to build up its youthfulimage, hoping to widen the customer base of theGroup.

Diversifying product lines to increase market size to invigorate brand values

– HLA's womenswear brand OVV and menswear brand AEX open first physical store

OVV x AEX’s flagship store in Huaihai Road Middle, Shanghai

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LOCAL BRANDS ACCELELATING EXPANSION IN CHINALaunching flagship stores – selected cases

18

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COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE- MOVEMENT OF LOCAL APPAREL BRANDS (EXPANSION)

19Source: News, Companies’ websites; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

In October 2018, Semir opened its first fresh image,stylish concept store at Shanghai Jiading CITIC PacificWanda Plaza.

The store is an experiential concept store that aimsto meet the needs of the young consumer group. Itsdesign philosophy is to create a “scenario +interactive” shopping experience for customers.Semir has created a special “KOL leisure zone”,where shoppers can take photos and interact witheach other while shopping at the store

Launching flagship stores

– Semir launches first fresh image, stylish concept store in Shanghai

Semir’s first flagship store at Shanghai Jiading CITIC Pacific Wanda Plaza

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COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE- MOVEMENT OF LOCAL APPAREL BRANDS (EXPANSION)

20Source: News, Companies’ websites; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

In May 2018, sportswear brand FILA which is ownedby ANTA Sports opened two flagship stores inNanjing Road East and Huaihai Zhong Road inShanghai. The two stores offer a full range of FILA’sproducts including childrenswear.

According to the annual report of ANTA Sports, bythe end of December 2018, there were 1,652 FILAstores (including the independent stores of FILA KIDSand FILA FUSION stores) in the Greater China region.

Launching flagship stores

– FILA opens two flagship stores in Shanghai in May 2018

Opening ceremony of the flagship store in Nanjing Road East, Shanghai

Page 23: CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 PART1...CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 Asia Distribution and Retail Jun 2019 PART 1: MARKET OVERVIEW AND COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE ANALYSISKEY TAKEAWAYS

LOCAL BRANDS ACCELELATING EXPANSION OVERSEAS

21

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COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE- MOVEMENT OF LOCAL APPAREL BRANDS (EXPANSION)

22Source: News, Companies’ websites; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

In May 2018, HLA opened its first store in Singaporein Suntec City Mall. With an area of 350 sqm, thestore has entirely different design compared to HLA’sother stores – the storefront only shows the HLAbrand logo in white, instead of showing the usualbrand logo with both Chinese and English characters.As of to date, HLA has opened a total of three storesin Singapore.

Indeed, HLA opened its first overseas store in KualaLumpur, Malaysia in July 2017; and it has more than20 stores in the nation.

According to HLA, the brand will further expand inSingapore, Malaysia and Thailand in the next threeyears.

Expanding footprints overseas

– HLA opens stores in Singapore in May 2018

HLA’s store in Singapore, Jurong Point Shopping Center

Page 25: CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 PART1...CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 Asia Distribution and Retail Jun 2019 PART 1: MARKET OVERVIEW AND COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE ANALYSISKEY TAKEAWAYS

COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE- MOVEMENT OF LOCAL APPAREL BRANDS (EXPANSION)

23Source: News, Companies’ websites; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

In July 2018, Bosideng announced to re-launch itsflagship store in London in September 2018. At thesame time, the Group will rejuvenate its main brand“Bosideng” by focusing on down jackets business,and spinning off other non-down jacket businessesincluding menswear, home wear and childrenswear.It will also close around 70% to 80% of Bosideng’snonprofitable stores over the next three years.

Expanding footprints overseas

– Bosideng re-launches flagship store in London in September 2018

Bosideng’s flagship store in London

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COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE- MOVEMENT OF LOCAL APPAREL BRANDS (EXPANSION)

24Source: News, Companies’ websites; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

In January 2019, Chinese apparel brand Lilyannounced that it has opened a flagship store inBarcelona, Spain, which is also its first store inEurope. The flagship store in Barcelona willshowcase the new collections for each season at thesame time as their stores in China.

Following Barcelona, Lily also plans to open newstores in other major business areas such as Madrid,as well as enter 20 department stores in Spain in thenext three years.

Expanding footprints overseas

– Lily opens first store in Europe in Barcelona, Spain in January 2019

Lily’s promotional materials online

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COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE- MOVEMENT OF LOCAL APPAREL BRANDS (EXPANSION)

25Source: News, Companies’ websites; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

HLA introduced its fast fashion brand HLA JEANS

and mid- to high-end womenswear brand OVV tothe Thailand market in April 2019. As the first twoChinese brands entering a tier-1 commercial hub inthe Southeast Asian region, HLA JEANS and OVV arelaunched in Central World shopping mall, which islocated in Thailand’s core commercial district andalso one of the largest shopping malls in the region.Heilan Home has also adjusted their product lines inThailand to better fit with local tastes and weather,with a focus on developing T-shirt and light jacketproducts.

Prior to its launch in Thailand, the company alsoopened its first local store in Singapore and Malaysiain May 2018 and July 2017 respectively.

Expanding footprints overseas

– HLA taps into the Thailand market in April 2019

HLA enters the Thailand market by introducing OVV and HLA Jeans

Storefront of HLAJEANS at Central World, Bangkok

Marketing material of HLA Jeans

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COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE- MOVEMENT OF LOCAL APPAREL BRANDS (EXPANSION)

26Source: News, Companies’ websites; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

In June 2018, Semir's kidswear brand Balabalaofficially entered the Hong Kong market by openingits first two stores in Olympian City III and HollywoodPlaza.

Balabala revealed that the brand plans to openapproximately 20-30 stores in Hong Kong over thenext three years. It hopes to use Hong Kong as astepping stone to execute the company’s globalexpansion plan in terms of acquisition, joint ventureand overseas franchising.

Expanding footprints overseas

– Balabala opens two stores in Hong Kong in June 2018

Balabala’s store at Olympian City III

Page 29: CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 PART1...CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 Asia Distribution and Retail Jun 2019 PART 1: MARKET OVERVIEW AND COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE ANALYSISKEY TAKEAWAYS

Movement of foreign apparel brands

27

Page 30: CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 PART1...CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 Asia Distribution and Retail Jun 2019 PART 1: MARKET OVERVIEW AND COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE ANALYSISKEY TAKEAWAYS

FOREIGN BRANDS ENTERING THE CHINA MARKET– Selected cases

28

Page 31: CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 PART1...CHINA APPAREL MARKET UPDATE 2019 Asia Distribution and Retail Jun 2019 PART 1: MARKET OVERVIEW AND COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE ANALYSISKEY TAKEAWAYS

Foreign apparel brands entering China market

– German luxury skiwear brand Bogner enters the China market COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE

- MOVEMENT OF FOREIGN APPAREL BRANDS (ENTRY)

29Source: News, Companies’ websites; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

In November 2018, German luxury skiwear brandBogner opened its first store in China. With a floorspace of 164 sqm, the store is designed based on theconcept of “Modern Natural” and will operate sevendays a week. The store is located at Thaiwoo SkiTown at Chongli County, Zhangjiakou City, HebeiProvince – Chongli County is said to be the bestskiing destination in China and Thaiwoo Ski Town willbe the main stadium for skiing in the Winter OlympicGames in 2022.

Currently, Bogner has 19 self-operated stores, 33partner stores and more than 6,500 sales outlets inmore than 50 countries, and it has more than 100partners in the Asia-Pacific region (China, Japan,South Korea, Taiwan, Mongolia and Australia).

Bogner’s store at Thaiwoo Ski Town

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Foreign apparel brands entering China market

– Japanese men’s shirt brand Kamakura shirts enters China via Tmall

In January 2019, Kamakura shirts officially launchedits flagship store on Tmall, offering more than 600SKUs, which include the brand’s signature products200 count extra fine yarn shirts and 300 count extrafine yarn shirts.

Founded in 1993, Kamakura shirts, together withluxury brands Gucci, Balenciaga and Chanel, wereamong the most popular search terms on Tmall in2018. Furthermore, Kamakura shirts is also one ofthe brands with the highest growth rate when itcomes to the keyword ranking within Tmall’s searchengine.

COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE- MOVEMENT OF FOREIGN APPAREL BRANDS (ENTRY)

30Source: News, Companies’ websites; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence Kamakura shirts’ online flagship store on Tmall

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Foreign apparel brands entering China market

– American footwear brand Allbirds debuts in China COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE

- MOVEMENT OF FOREIGN APPAREL BRANDS (ENTRY)

33Source: News, Companies’ websites; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

American footwear brand Allbirds has entered theChina market by launching its first local store at HKRITaikoo Hui, Shanghai in April 2019 and its secondstore at Taikoo Li in Beijing in May 2019.

Meanwhile, Allbirds has also launched its officialwebsite (https://www.allbirds.cn/) and its onlineflagship store on Tmall. Moving forward, the brandplans to open specialty stores in Beijing andChengdu.

Founded in 2014, Allbirds is well-known for its twosignature products – machine-washable woolsneakers Runner and Lounger, with each pair pricedat US$95.

Allbirds’ signature products – Wool Runner and Wool Lounger

Allbirds’ store at Taikoo LI, Beijing

“Peking Opera” – Limited edition of Wool Runner to celebrate the opening of its Beijing store 31

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FOREIGN BRANDS ACCELELATING EXPANSION IN CHINAStore openings – selected cases

32

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Store opening

– Champion accelerates expansion in China in December 2018COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE

- MOVEMENT OF FOREIGN APPAREL BRANDS (EXPANSION)

33Source: News, Companies’ websites; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

American trendy fashion brand Champion isaccelerating its store expansion in China. The brandadded eight new stores in China in December 2018,taking its total store count in the country to 41,according to the brand’s official WeChat account.The massive expansion was mainly driven by theshrinking domestic demand in the U.S. and the hugeconsumption potential in China.

Celebrity Yang Mi wearing Champion’s hoodie

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COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE- MOVEMENT OF FOREIGN APPAREL BRANDS (EXPANSION)

Store opening

– Zadig & Voltaire accelerates pace of store openings in Greater China in March 2019

34Source: News, Companies’ websites; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

French apparel brand Zadig & Voltaire has expandedits presence in Asia, especially Greater China. Thebrand partnered with local retailer IT Group, thebrand’s distribution partner to open two new storesin Beijing and Shanghai in March 2019.

Currently, Zadig & Voltaire has 378 stores worldwide,118 of which are located in France. The Asia market,mainly Japan and South Korea, now accounts for 5%of Zadig & Voltaire's total sales; the brand reportedlyoperates three stores in Beijing, one in Shanghai andanother in Shenzhen. The brand targets to open 45stores in the region, and generate between 10% and15% of global revenue in the next five years.

Zadig & Voltaire’s first fashion show in China in 2017

Zadig & Voltaire’s “Chinese New Year Capsule Collection”

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FOREIGN BRANDS ACCELELATING EXPANSION IN CHINALaunching flagship stores – selected cases

35

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36Source: News, Companies’ websites; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

In October 2018, Nike unveiled its first House ofInnovation concept store “Shanghai 001”. Located atthe shopping district of Nanjing East Road inShanghai, this cross-category flagship store has fourlevels and an area of 3,822 sqm.

Nike Shanghai 001 brings Nike products and servicesto consumers through the integration of digital andoffline services as well as its experiential shop design.Other than being the first Nike store in China to fullyadopt mobile payments, the store has a number ofunique features to enhance customers’ experiencessuch as “Center Court” for digitally-led trialingsessions; while for its NikePlus members, “Nike ByYou” sneaker customization and “Nike Expert Studio”personalized product selection in private sessionsare available.

Launching flagship store

– Nike opens its first concept flagship store in Shanghai in October 2018

“Nike By You” sneaker customization

The digitall-enabled “Center Court” for workshops and trailing sessions

COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE- MOVEMENT OF FOREIGN APPAREL BRANDS (EXPANSION)

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COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE- MOVEMENT OF FOREIGN APPAREL BRANDS (EXPANSION)

37Source: News, Companies’ websites; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

H&M’s sister brand COS launched its first globalmenswear store in Beijing’s Sanlitun in December2018. With a store size of 174 sqm, the storefeatures customized furniture for shoppers to relaxand provides various books on arts, photography, aswell as building and design.

Recently, COS has accelerated its expansion in theChina market by opening more physical stores andlaunched its online flagship store on Tmall.According to COS, it will further open physical storesin Beijing, Xiamen and Guangzhou. COS entered theChina market in 2012 for the first time and hasaround 30 stores nationwide.

Launching flagship store

– COS opens first global menswear store in Beijing in December 2018

COS’s website in Chinese

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38Source: News, Companies’ websites; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

In January 2019, Skechers opened its 3,000th store inthe world at Star Mall Shenyang Plaza, China, whichis also the brand’s largest store. In the 2,982- sqmmega store, products are categorized and showcasedin different zones, including D’Lites, Lifestyle,Performance, Kids, etc.

Founded in 1992, Skechers is reportedly available in170 countries. Currently, Skechers has the largestnumber of stores in China (941), followed by the U.S.(472), and India (222).

Launching flagship store

– Skechers opens the brand’s largest store in Shenyang in January 2019

Storefront of Skechers’ mega store in Shenyang

COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE- MOVEMENT OF FOREIGN APPAREL BRANDS (EXPANSION)

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39Source: News, Companies’ websites; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

In June 2019, Spanish fast fashion brand Mangosigned a cooperation agreement with HangzhouJingzhe Clothing Co., Ltd. to accelerate itsdevelopment in Asia, especially in the China market.

Under this cooperation agreement, the brand willfurther develop both online and offline channels – itplans to open 16 physical stores in China by the endof 2019, and launch online stores via major e-commerce platforms at the same time

Launching online flagship store

– Mango launches online flagship store in China in June 2019COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE

- MOVEMENT OF FOREIGN APPAREL BRANDS (EXPANSION)

Mango’s China website

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FOREIGN BRANDS EXITING CHINA MARKET- Selected cases

40

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COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE- MOVEMENT OF FOREIGN APPAREL BRANDS (EXIT)

Exiting the market

– Nine West withdraws from the China market in September 2018

41Source: News, Companies’ websites; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

In September 2018, U.S. footwear brand Nine Westclosed its last Beijing store at Hanguang DepartmentStore after shutting down its online flagship store onTmall and dissolving its Dongguan headquartersearlier. Indeed, the company enjoyed tremendousgrowth ever since its entry in the China market in1994; however, it was reportedly struggling fromincreasing competition and continual declines inrevenue and profits in recent years.

Before exiting the China market, the companywithdrew from Taiwan and Hong Kong after filing forbankruptcy in April 2018. After completing itsfinancial and operational restructuring, the footwearbrand exited from bankruptcy in March 2019, byrenaming itself as Premier Brands Group.

“Goodbye” message from NINE WEST

Storefront of a NINE WEST store in China

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Exiting the market

– New Look exits the China market by end of 2018 COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE

- MOVEMENT OF FOREIGN APPAREL BRANDS (EXIT)

42Source: News, Companies’ websites; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

In October 2018, British fast fashion brand New Lookdecided to withdraw from the China market andclose all of its 120 stores in China by end-2018 tofocus on restructuring its business in its homecountry. Industry experts revealed that lack of localknowledge, increased competition from Chinesebrands and the sheer size of investment required arethe key reasons for New Look’s withdrawal.

New Look entered the market in 2014 and hasclosed 20 stores in China since the beginning of 2018.

“Goodbye” message from NEW LOOK

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Exiting the market

– Forever 21 closes online store in China; confirms to exit the market in April 2019COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE

- MOVEMENT OF FOREIGN APPAREL BRANDS (EXIT)

43Source: News, Companies’ websites; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

In April 2019, U.S. fast fashion brand Forever 21closed its online flagship stores on Tmall and JD.com.Earlier in the same month, the fast fashion apparelbrand confirmed that it has decided to exit the Chinamarket entirely in the near future although it has yetto issue a formal statement.

Indeed, Forever 21 closed the stores in Tianjin,Hangzhou, Beijing and Chongqing, etc. since the endof 2018. Currently, Forever 21 has four remainingstores in the nation.

Forever 21 entered the China market by opening thefirst store in Changshu in 2008.

The announcement of closing its online flagship store on Tmall

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Exiting the market

– 10 Corso Como closes Shanghai branch in June 2019COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE

- MOVEMENT OF FOREIGN APPAREL BRANDS (EXIT)

44Source: News, Companies’ websites; compiled by Fung Business Intelligence

Italian fashion concept store 10 Corso Como shutdown its Shanghai branch in June 2019, due to theexpiration of its lease and the end of its partnershipwith its Chinese partner Trendy Group.

Following its entry into China in 2013, 10 CorsoComo opened two local stores respectively inShanghai and Beijing’s SKP shopping mall; yet, thestore in Beijing was closed in February 2017.

Founded in 1999, Trendy Group is a fashionconglomerate which operates more than 3,000 retaillocations in nearly 300 cities worldwide, and holdsbrands such as Ochirly, Five Plus, Coven Garden,Trendiano and Miss Sixty.

10 Corso Como store in Shanghai

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UPCOMING ISSUES

45

Coming soon…

Please stay tuned for our upcoming issues featuringthe latest trends, e-commerce developments ofChina's apparel market, apparel supply chain, andmore.

Coming soon…

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© Copyright 2019 Fung Business Intelligence . All rights reserved.

Though the Fung Business Intelligence endeavours to have information presented in this document as accurateand updated as possible, it accepts no responsibility for any error, omission or misrepresentation. Fung BusinessIntelligence and/or its associates accept no responsibility for any direct, indirect or consequential loss that mayarise from the use of information contained in this document.

Fung Business Intelligence 10/F, LiFung Tower, 888 Cheung Sha Wan Road, Kowloon, Hong KongTel: (852) 2300 2470 Fax: (852) 2635 1598Email: [email protected]://www.fbicgroup.com/

Contacts

Asia Distribution & Retail

Teresa Lam

Vice President

Email: [email protected]

Tracy Chan

Research Manager

Email: [email protected]

Renne Chan

Research Manager

Email: [email protected]


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