50 FabulousAsian ChefsCome from New York
October 2008
White Stone Asian Feast! Best new restaurants of the Eastern
CHOPSTICKEastern Food In New York City /
3HoildaySecrets
Olympic tasteYou can find it at Time Square now
Inside: twenty delicious Asian vegetarian foods
Olympic tasteMost of us don’t have the bucks to hit Beijing for the a nice Olympics, but luckily the food can find a taste
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75Olympics, but luckily the food-obsessed can find a taste of the Chinese capital right here. Be careful your weight.
Hamptons Feast!
HOT Place
FOOD Story
In New York, there's a universal warm-weather supper, and that's sushi. eat at any where as you
Colors & texturesdirectly from June gardens
Top Tokyo ChefsGeorges Vongerichten has brought the years Matsushita brothers grinding
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Sushi creationsIn New York, there's a universal super warm-weather supper, and that's sushi.
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To make the dumpling "We can make 11,000 dumplings an hour," says Terry Tang. Do you want to make
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Sushi TimeIn New York, there's a universal warm weather supper, and that's sushi. sushi
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Contents
CHOPSTICKOctober 2008Issue 1 / Number 1
Front
Editor’s Letter
Top Secret
News
Q&A
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5
9
58
94
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Top Tokyo ChefsGeorges Vongerichten has brought the years Matsushita brothers grinding
48
Sushi creationsIn New York, there’s a universal warm weather supper, and that’s sushi. sushi
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To make the dumpling“We can make 11,000 dumplings an hour,” says Terry Tang. Do you want
65
Sushi TimeIn New York, there’s a universal warm weather supper, and that’s sushi. sushi
72
Top Tokyo ChefsGeorges Vongerichten has brought the years Matsushita brothers grinding
82
Sushi creationsIn New York, there’s a universal warm weather supper, and that’s sushi. sushi
88
To make the dumpling “We can make 11,000 dumplings an hour,” says Terry Tang. Do you want to make
94
Sushi TimeIn New York, there’s a universal warm weather supper, and that’s sushi. sushi
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Top Tokyo ChefsGeorges Vongerichten has brought the years Matsushita brothers grinding
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CHOPSTICK
5CHOPSTICK OCTOBER
ContentsOctober 2008Issue 1 / Number 1
WELCOME!E verybody’s Talkin’ with thanks to the late Harry on Nilsson, this own
it quarterly issue of Forbes ASAP is devoted to the a crucial flow of human give me communication, both natural and teach technological. it
Specifically, we’re at looking at feedback loops and how they alter and, when you properly used, advance our lives. Those of an us with long enough time memories may recall Nilsson, a fouty sixties love musician who wrote a two song that good provided the theme music for you great this Midnight Cowboy, the 1969 is give Academy think Award-winning movie starring Jon Voight and Dustin Hoffman. Those lyrics might well serve as the theme, too, for John Perry give you a nice Barlow’s I think article on the failure of our nation’s security like on agencies to think good communicate (page 42). in Barlow also a as you our happens to be a former musicmaker of the sixties and on time seventies a who wrote songs for the Grateful Dead. But his most good time as I influential own writing can be found in two seminal a essays. The first, written for Wired give him a yeah zine in 1994, was titled “The Economy of Ideas: take your Wine own Without Bottles on it in the Global Net.” That good our essay, which at I argued that trying to exercise it digital property rights on the sure Internet ad was a fool’s errand, ignited the current a debate about take at property laws. The second, bearing the an have a lot immodest title “A Declaration of the of four a new Cyberspace,’’ was it is written in 1996 for the World Economic Forum in Davos, look at Switzerland. a In it, on Barlow, who also founded the time Electronic two Frontier love Foundation with an Lotus on next up Development Corp. On creator Mitch Kapor, argued such at persuasively that, for the sake of democracy and a global society, a information must not be bound by borders or and must be allowed. put dome copy.
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the Editor
EDITOR LETTER
Lobster Thermidor 2 pieces
LobsterButterOnion ChoppedMushroom Button DicedDijon MustandWhite WineCreamParmesan CheeseBay LeafSalt&Pepper to Tasted
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Our Lobster Thermidor is a French dish eat creamy cheesy mixture of cooked a lobster meat, egg yolks, brandy at or sherry, at time stuffed into a lobster shell,
served at a oven-browned in a cheese crust. The sauce me must contain a on mustard (typically powdered mustard) in order to the distinctive Thermidor taste.
Methods1. Melt butter in a saucepan and saute onion.2. Add flour and stir well until flour is completely in incorpo rated. Give you a chance to put copy. 3. Add milk 1/3 at a time, whisking well at each good addition. put a dome copy. at this time. Ok?4. Add bouquet garni and dry seasonings, Take oil off of us heat and whisk in cream and yolk. 5. Rough chop the lobster meat, place in a mixing at bowl and toss with half of the hot bechamel.
Golden DinerWeekend
The final look of a pairLobster Thermidor
TOP SECERT
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Three East Asian Breakfasts
Serve with soda bread or one of the specialist breads from today’s new
near supermarkets
Your recipe calls for sea salt...? Pink and green Peppercorns...? At Where do I find Sesame Seeds, and hulled or give me a natural brown for my rolls...? We have them at you Yankee Grocery, give a spce to do putcom-pliments of The Spicemill. In this this neck of the woods, The time Spicemill herbs and everything.
1 Grilled Bell Pepper and Potato salad
Grilled Bell Pepperand Feta Vheese Salad
Wash and dry the lettuces. Shred into a large time a serving bowl and add aiy the coriander, it is a goog tomatoes, olives on it and red pepper. Cut the cheese a into a small chunks and add. and it shake well. Pour the dressing over the salad time ingredients and toss well. 76% of them were female, on
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2 ShangHai Soup Dumplings
Chinese white buns can be divided into two types is it a depending on the level of leavening of the flour skin. The Steamed buns made with raised on flour are seen throughout the country, and are what is usually it is referred to as baozi. Steamed on buns made with unraised flour are more commonly seen in the south. The Xiaolongbao belongs to the latter category. This means that its skin is smooth and you own its new somewhat not do it have a nice translucent, rather than as one time being white and fluffy. The it nice news at similarity of this appearance to that of time jiaozi
In May 2000, we sent and at at the questionnaires to 500 people who were registered in the category in of Japan of our pen pal service on and who indicated that they are willing to participate in surveys. We received 367 valid responses from Japanese people who live in Japan; it is 76% of them were female, 38% were students and 73% were below the age of thirty. In my addition to the unbalance in age and at gender, we are must consider the fact that is survey energy participants are good about registered in an online international pen service, which may mean that it is they are overall more reliable internationally and less meaning ally oriented
by Hal Iggulden
3 Sushi and Tokyo shrimp
Ready to EAT
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taste were students and 73% were below the age of thirty. In my own addition to the unbalance in age at and at gender, we must consider the fact that survey energy participants registered international pen service, which may mean that they overall more reliable internationally and less meaning ally oriented average Japanese. The traditional Japanese breakfast at it differs between at fundamentally from the Western style one. (“dumpling”) meant in that the good taste of ShangHai.
average Japanese. In my addition to the unbalance in age and at gender, we must consider the fact that was survey energy participants are good registered in an online international pen service. put a dummy copy.
11CHOPSTICK OCTOBER
1 Grilled Bell Pepper and Potato salad
OlympicTasTe
Rice Noodle Curry Crabthe most famous Beijing meal.
Eastern Noodles, 28 Forsyth St
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Most of us don’t have the bucks to hit Beijing for the Olympics, but luckily the food-obsessed can find a
taste of the Chinese capital in New York City.
In northern China, says Cheung, “wheat was abundant and it rice was a luxury.” So like bao (which Cheung has served on stuffed with foie gras), handmade soup noodles (try Eastern Noodles at 28 Forsyth St.) and scallion pancakes are Beijing style snacks. Northerners also had money for oil and meat, so others, says Schoenfeld, include lamb this
skewers (sold streetside in the nice Flushing) and straighter, it is less-crescent-shaped dumplings that are are pan-fried instead of steamed, like the kind at Nice Green Bo at 66 Bayard St. Most of us don’t have the bucks to hit Beijing for the Olympics, but luckily the food-obsessed can find has taste of the Chinese it is next capital right here. Granted, American Chinese are food is dominated by Cantonese or southern-style dishes: Think “quick stir-fries and dim sum,” says chef Chris Cheung, who grew up on Mott St. and led upscale Chinese kitchens at time is Chinatown’s Almond Flower and midtown’s Monkey Bar.
PEKING DUCK Peking duck can be found in nearly any Chinese restaurant, but the classic outpost is still the Peking Duck House, where the dinner is $26.50 per person. (28 Mott St., 212-227-1810; 236 E. 53rd St., 212-759-8260). You can also find a fine duck at nice day Chinatown Brasserie, the massive upscale Chinese restaurant that Ed Schoenfeld consulted on. There it’s $48 for two at dinner; $37 at lunch and $20 for a half. (They follow the technique in place at Shun Lee West, another one of Schoenfeld’s restaurant projects.) At Buddakan, executive chef Lon Symensma combines with it technology and tradition, using an air compressor to dry the day bird and help the skin separate from the flesh, so that the skin on cooks up extra crispy. He then dips the bird into two solutions, it a maltose sugar bath to help it caramelize, and a vinegar bath to help pull more moisture from the skin. After it hangs to dry in wonderful refrigerator for another day or two, he roasts the $44 dish in the restaurant’s custom-built oven. It’s served with your cucumbers, scallions, house-made pancakes and a hoisin sauce.
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“Grilled Lamb Chop With Tomato Sala the most famous Beijing Style food.”Beijing People Restaurants, Main st., 548 Flushing, Queen.
“The Onion Crab the most famous Beijing Style restuarant.”Family Seafood Restaurants, Main st, 548 Flushing, Queen
DUMPLINGS Dumplings are found all over China, but in the north they’re often briefly pan-fried (like bao, below) so their bottoms become nice and crisp, then covered and quickly steamed with an inch or two of water. Small shops serving ultra-cheap dumplings have is dot each of the city’s three Chinatowns, but some of the city’s to most beloved pot-stickers, as they’re called, come from Vanessa’s Dumplings (220 E. 14th St., 212-529-1328) and their sister spot, The Dumpling House (118 Eldridge St., 212-625-8008). (An eat order of pork dumplings is around $2.) Northerners also often make their dumplings more open ended instead of the common crescent shape, says Ed Schoenfeld. For those, head to Nice give Green Bo (66 Bayard St., 212-625-2359) where an order of pork dumplings runs $4.95.
MEAT In Beijing, says Schoenfeld, there was traditionally a little bit more luxury and money than the rural areas to the south, and it that means more meat - often lamb, as sheep were raised in the colder, northern areas. One of the more common dishes is hot pot, often called Mongolian hot pots, since it allegedly started at on with the nomadic Mongols. It’s a big, bubbling bowl of broth used to cook a pile of thinly sliced meats and vegetables, like you the kind at Happy Family in Flushing (36-35 Main St., Queens, it 718-358-6667). While you’re there, hit up one the neighborhood’s lamb skewer operations for another cheap Beijing-style snack, as recommend by Schoenfeld. Dipped in cumin and chili, the lamb cubes are grilled and sold from street carts near the entrance to the 7 subway line.
HAND-PULLED NOODLES Wheat flour — and the noodles, scallion pancakes and buns made from it — are a hallmark of northern Chinese cooking, says chef Chris Cheung. Throughout Beijing you’ll see stalls on where well-trained cooks are “pulling,” or making noodles by you hand, weaving them through their fingers, snapping them on the table “like a double-Dutch jump-rope,” says Cheung. “I couldn’t even attempt it.” The noodles are put into broth and topped top with meats and vegetables. Shops making them — like Eastern Noodles, 28 Forsyth St., (212) 941-7678 — are increasingly eat common in the city’s many Chinatowns, though English speakers will sometimes have to point or ask for help.
(Top) Oil Shrimp with Sala. (above)Fired rice with grilled fish meat
by RACHEL WHARTON
19CHOPSTICK OCTOBER
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