CIJ Winter Trends Guide 2013

No 296 / Winter - Trends Guide 2013

Baselworld2013

First avenue

Couture las vegas 2013

laFite Ballroom

J o C H e n P o H l . C o m

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TOP TEN JEWELLERY AND FASHION COLOUR DIRECTIONS FOR 2013

Cynthia UnninayarEditor-in-Chief / CIJ Trends & Colours

Cynthia

Another year has gone by, and from our travels around the world, check-ing out jewellery from the Americas to Europe to Asia, we again bring you the most prevalent trends for jewel-lery for 2013. Since jewellery and fashion are linked, and since colour is the major trend in both jewellery and fashion, we also feature Pantone’s top ten colour directions for Spring/Summer 2013.

The runways for S/S 2013 fashion were again awash in colour, with bold and sometimes contrasting tones. It is not just one colour anymore, but combinations of two or more colours. The bold orangey shade of last year seems to have given way to the blues and greens, as couturiers move to-wards the cooler shades, while the warmer tones add punch to any outfit. Many collections were full of jewel-like embellishments, along with many metallics. The runway was also full of jewellery, with large cuffs, stackable bangles, long layered chains, large gemstone-centre rings, and state-ment-making necklaces.

The major directions for jewellery de-sign for 2013 are mostly a continua-tion and evolution of past trends. The most important direction remains the use of Colour, in all tones and hues, represented generally by gemstones. Now, however, it is mostly about a Mix & Mingle of colours. Flora & Fauna continue to be muses for a variety of Nature-inspired themes, with flowers and butterflies leading the trend, while the marine environment and snakes are popular. Since 2013 is the Year of the Snake, we feature a variety

of jewels evoking these interesting serpents. The last few years have seen an increase in openwork piec-es and these Lacy Looks are often a result of high metals prices. Edgy designs have moved mainstream as more consumers are Going Gothic. The perennial hoop earring is a fash-ion must-have, and these Happy Hoops are no longer simply round or in plain metal, but come in a multitude of shapes, sometimes studded with gems. Tempting Tassels continue

their popularity in a variety of ma-terials. Creative Cuffs come in all shapes and are worn on the wrist or upper arm. As people look more to-wards organic and natural looks, the Au Naturel trend is reflected in the use of rough gemstones, drusies, or other “earthy” materials. New to the top trend list this year are bracelets that are Hanging by a Thread, with gems or metals attached to cords of varying thicknesses and materi-als. The last of the top ten trends are pieces that go A Step Beyond, with innovative designs that are technical-ly sophisticated and sometimes quite surprising.

Other articles in this issue include an interview with the director of the Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand, who discusses buying gemstones and jewellery with confidence. And, be-cause social marketing has become so important in business today, you won’t want to miss the article on tips, tricks, and trends in this type of pro-motion. Our usual designer profiles and Trends & Colours double page spreads are also on the menu, as is a look at jewellery featured at the world’s trade fairs over the last few months.

The entire team at CIJ Trends & Colours wishes you a wonderful and prosperous year.

E D I T O R ’ S L E T T E R

Nature and colour are muses for fashion as seen in this outfit by Nicole Miller, who uses the Pantone S/S 2013 colours of Monaco Blue, African Violet, and Nectarine.

Rare coloured gemstones

For over five millennia the talismanic emerald

has been sought after for its seductive beauty and

treasured as an emblem of power and a symbol

of hope. Today, emeralds are all the more precious

when sourced from Gemfields, pioneers in the

ethical and environmentally-responsible mining

of coloured gemstones.

Josephine wears Jooal Zambian Emerald

Jewellery. For more information about our emeralds

please contact us on +1 917 952 6916 or visit

www.gemfields.co.uk

GEM_TC_FA_2_I20300.indd 2-3

05/10/2012 18:05

Editor’s Letter04 Top Ten Jewellery and Fashion Colour Directions for 2013

Cover Feature10 Jochen Pohl – The Story is the Stone

Profiles20 Bapalal Keshavlal – Woman, where it all begins22 Dynamic Elegance in The Fifth Season 24 BlueWhiteGroup’s Full-Service Diamond Offerings37 Isabelle Langlois – Born to Beauty41 Joanna Angelett – From Snowdrops in Perth to Royal Garden in London64 The 4th Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair

Colours Trends17 Ten Top Colours for Spring/Summer 2013

Top Ten Trends25 Top Ten Trends in Jewellery Design for 2013

Gemstones38 Buying Gemstones and Jewellery with Confidence

Social Marketing60 Social Marketing – Tips, Tricks and Trends

Marketplace66 Indian Jewellery Design – Bollywood and Beyond70 Italian Design and More at Cortina and Vicenza74 Creative Design – Thai Style80 Milestone for Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair84 Intergem 2012 Features the New and Unusual

88 Index

I N T H I S I S S U E

On the CoverPendants with moonstone and diamonds in 18k whitegold with matching silk-chain.

Cover Feature on page 10

www.jochenpohl.com

Colours Trends – Emily Saunder

Top Ten Trends – Lydia Courtelle

Trends & Colours44 Pretty in Pink and Purple46 Cheerful & Bright48 Beautiful Blues50 Nature’s Colours52 Elegant Opposite54 The Year of the 201356 Living Gold

Editor Cynthia Unninayar • Contributors Diana S. Zimmerman, T. R. Flora, Rayan Innue, Antonella Scorta, • Advertising contacts Alexandra Montandon [email protected] T. +41 22 307 7847 / Nathalie Glattfelder [email protected] T. +41 22 307 7832 / Italy - Alessandra Arati [email protected] T. +39 024 851 7853 / Spain - Carles Sapena [email protected] T. +34 93 112 7113 / Asia - Maggie Tong [email protected]

T. + 852 9658 1830 / India - Bhupal Potdar [email protected] T. +91 98211 51035 / USA - Karen Nuckols [email protected] T. +1 610 986 7285 • Graphic Design Laurence Chatenoud, Tasha Unninayar • Managing Director Philippe Maillard • On the Web at: www.CIJintl.com and www.worldwatchweb.com - Published by Europastar HBM SA - 25 Acacias, 1227 Carouge, Geneva, Switzerland - Tel: +41.22.307.7837; Fax: +41.22.300.3748; Email: [email protected]

Printed in Geneva by SRO-Kundig • Copyright 2012 by Europa Star • www.europastar.comAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of CIJ International Jewellery.

– Lydia Courtelle

Pretty in Pink and Purple

25Top Ten Trends – Alessio BoschiGemstones – Colourfull faceted sapphires

38 25

Pretty in Pink and Purple – Goldesign

44

53Elegant Opposite – Hellmuth

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Colour is today the undisputed ruler on the fashion runways and in the world of contemporary jewellery. And, when you think of fine gemstone jewellery, one name invariably comes to mind, a name that has expanded far beyond its hometown of Idar-Oberstein to become one of the world’s most respected fine jewellery brands

By Cynthia Unninayar

Jochen Pohl – The STory iS The STone

c o v e r f e a t u r e

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Five centuries ago, Idar-Oberstein attracted miners who settled there in search of gemstones found in the cliffs of the region, starting a tradition that flourishes to this day. After the miners, came the cutters and engravers, and before long, the small German town had turned into one of the world’s most famous centres for gemstones. It was against this backdrop—where the secrets of gemstone cutting and jewellery making were passed from generation to generation—that Jochen Pohl grew up. As a young man, he apprenticed as a goldsmith with his father, and then continued to learn his craft while developing a very special relationship with gemstones.

Today, Jochen Pohl’s very successful eponymous brand is in the same town,

located in a building known for its minimalist, almost monolithic, concrete design, somewhat reminiscent of a spaceship. The workshop is modern, clearly organized, and illuminated with lots of natural light, and therefore serves as a direct contrast to the countless traditional tools, workbenches scarred by hot metal and sharp tools, and the characteristic leather aprons designed to catch valuable gold and platinum shavings. A perfect example of how tradition and craftsmanship can be combined with modern technology, it reflects Jochen Pohl’s definition of luxury as a “symbiosis of exceptional quality and durability.”

But, he muses, “The real story is the stone. It is about much more than its mere value. It’s about discovering its

essence, its unique self-contained world, its personality.” And discover it, he does. Pohl’s designs are individually developed to bring out the best of each stone, which include such beautiful gems as rubellite, tanzanite, Mandarin garnet, aquamarine, moonstone, and tourmaline, to name but a few. His respect for the beauty and uniqueness of each and every gem forms the basis of his creations, which are as diverse as the colours found in nature. The colourful rings, earrings, and pendants are small sculptures with a surprisingly modern design that reflects the spirit of the times.

Respecting the stone are not mere words. Pohl lives by and cultivates this philosophy. Just look at the time and effort made to examine the rough gem from all sides before measuring

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and faceting it in accordance with the natural shape of the crystal in order to bring out its true character. Or, think of all the time necessary to achieve a flawless finish on the gold or platinum, or the precision used in drilling and shaping each hole so that the stone aligns perfectly with the setting, or the secure way it is attached to the metal. “We invest all this time and effort out of respect for the stone that has taken millions of years to form, and out of respect for our clients around the world, who expect the best.”

Once set in a piece of jewellery, the solid construction of the metal with the stone is surprisingly soft and comfortable on the finger. Pohl refers to this as the “equilibrium and balance that set the jewellery apart.” This same equilibrium

is opulently shared by all Jochen Pohl jewellery, whether minimalist designs or the occasional radical creation. “It’s essential that each piece should be unique,” he adds. “When I select the stone, I already know what the piece is going to look like and how it’s going to feel on the body. I always imagine how the owner of the ring is going to look.”

For Pohl, it is always a very special moment when the future wearer and the piece of jewellery come together for the first time, when they find their stone’s own unique story.

Among the major jewellery shows, this year, Jochen Pohl will be present at BaselWorld in April and Couture in Las Vegas, where the brand continues to attract important retailers in America and around the globe. (www.jochenpohl.com)

More than just a mere slogan, this phrase evokes the philosophy of one of the world’s leading global jewellery brands.

By Man Kei Tong

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p r o f i l e

Since its global launch more than 20 years ago, Bapalal Keshavlal has become an established and prestigious name with many of the world’s most prominent high-end jewellers, providing jewellery that is known not only for its distinctive designs, but also for its high added value.

One of India’s premiere brands, its long history has been directed towards serving the emotions and desires of the women who wear these sumptuous creations. “The woman is where it all begins,” muses founder Romy Mehta. “We use our skills in the art and craft of jewellery to create pieces that radiate beauty and femininity, a perfect complement to the wearer.”

Never one to rest on its laurels, Bapalal launched Auratam at the May-June 2009 shows of Couture, Luxury by JCK, and the JCK’s Prestige Promenade. The unique technology used to create these remarkable pieces is one of the first of its kind worldwide and has earned rave reviews by consumers in the USA, Europe, the Caribbean, and Japan. (For more about Auratam, please visit www.auratam.com.)

The following are just a few of the notable achievements of the Bapalal Keshavlal brand over the last few years.

• Years ago, it was the only Indian company to have been invited to showcase

its selective high-end jewellery at such important trade shows as Couture Collection and Confe-rence, Luxury at JCK, Prestige Promenade JCK, About J in Italy, the prestigious pavilion B1 at the Vicenza Show, and in 2013 at Centurion.

• It has been a consistent winner of the JCK Jewellers Choice awards in different categories starting in 2008, and continuing in 2010, 2011, and 2012. In 2012, the brand won the Grand Prize out of dozens of winners.

• In addition to advertising in major international jewellery trade publi-cations for the past twelve years, it is now promoting the brand in select consumer magazines.

• Its integrated marketing strategy has resulted in increased brand awareness and sales volume with existing customers and an influx of new clientele.

• Bapalal Keshavlal has repeatedly received awards for outstanding export performance from the Government of India, during the past decade, in the category of gem and diamond-set jewellery.

Its international designs can be seen in catalogues and its website .(www.bapalalkeshavlal.com)

Bapalal Keshavlal –

Woman, Where It all BegIns

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C O L O U R T R E N D S

Peridot pendant by Carelle

Peridot, lemon quartz, and diamond ring by Casato

Peridot earrings by Gordon Aatlo Designs

Enamel and sliver bangle by Belle Etoile

Faceted emerald by Muzo International

Emerald and diamond ring by Katherine Jetter

Emerald and diamond earrings by Bruner

Zultanite and diamond earrings by Erica Courtney

Gemfields emerald, gold, and diamond earrings created by Theo Fennel

Emerald and diamond earrings by Bapalal Keshavlal

Barbara Tfank using Pantone Emerald, a lively, radiant green, that inspires insight and clarity while enhancing our sense of well-being.

In this issue of CIJ Trends & Colours, our annual trends guide, we again present the top ten trends in fashion colour for Spring/Summer 2013 as forecast by Pantone, the global authority on color for more than 20 years, in its Fashion Color Report Spring 2013, as

well as matching colours of jewellery. The fashion color trends for this season mix dynamic brights with novel neutrals to create a harmonious balance, allowing for unique combinations offering practicality and versatility, while attracting attention. “The expression ‘balancing act’ is something we all relate to as

Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute®. “The same can be said for fashion as we look for balance between light and bright, classic and new. This season’s color palette em-

phasizes this need for balance, while at the same time allow-


Ten Top Colours for Spring/Summer 2013

Fashion sketches, colours, and quotes are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring 2013.

Rachel Roy using Pantone Tender

Shoots. Like the first signs of spring, Tender

Shoots, a vibrant yellow-green, is

invigorating, active, and cheerful.

Emerald and

Peridot pendant by Carelle

Peridot, lemon quartz, and diamond ring by Casato

Ten Top Colours for Spring/Summer 2013

Enamel and

Faceted emerald by Faceted emerald by Muzo International Muzo International

Zultanite and diamond earrings by Erica Courtney

Zultanite and

[See more similar colours in the Trends & Colour section later in this issue.]

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Gold and glass ring by Baccarat

Mandarin garnet and diamond pendant by Le Vian

Mandarin garnet and diamond ring by Jochen Pohl

Gemstone and diamond bracelet by Jenny Perl

Yellow and white diamond earrings by Norman Silverman

Yellow and white diamond earrings by

Gumuchian

White and yellow diamond ring by Oscar Heyman

Citrine and diamond ring by Isabelle Langlois

Opal, green garnet, and diamond brooch by Forever Jewels

Fire opal and diamond ring by Alessio Boschi

Rings in platinum with white and yellow diamonds by Jack Kelege

David Meister using Pantone Nectarine, a bright, effervescent citrus orange with coral undertones, giving a tangy burst of flavor.

Ella Moss by Pamella Protzel Scott using Pantone Lemon Zest, a cheerful yellow colour with a refreshing, spritely greenish cast.


Colour Trends for Spring/Summer 2013

Gumuchian

Yellow and white diamond earrings by

Rings in platinum with white and yellow diamonds by Jack Kelege

Citrine and diamond ring by Isabelle Langlois

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Sunstone earring by Paula Crevoshay

Chalcedony pendant by Sandy Leong

Prehnite and diamond ring by Spark Creations

Chalcedony and diamond ring by Jolie B. Ray

Green jade and white agate earrings by Misis

Coral earrings by Carla Amorim

Ruby and diamond earring by Mousson

Atelier

Aquamarine and brown diamond ring by Kavant

Spinel earring by Garaude

Ruby and diamond ring by Zydo

Garnet and amethyst ring by Jolfer

Carmen Marc Valvo using Pantone Poppy Red, an exuberant red, a seductive, sensual and celebratory shade.

Peter Som using Pantone Grayed Jade, a subtle, hushed green with a gray undertone, that brings about a mood of quiet reflection and repose.



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Amethyst and diamond ring by Palmiero

Amethyst and silver earrings by

Thistle & Bee

Lapis lazuli and diamond ring by Magerit

Amethyst ring by Roberto Coin

Lapis lazuli ring by Jane Taylor

Amethyst and diamond pendant by Azuelos Jewelry

Sapphire and diamond earrings by Sharart

Sapphire and emerald earrings

by Buccellati

Multi-gemstone bracelet by Ziio

Blue topaz, peridot, and diamond earrings by Tresor

Amethyst ring by Nanis

Lapis lazuli and diamond earrngs by

Anzie

Nicole Miller using Pantone Monaco Blue, a classic shade that offers

both stability and depthto the entire palette.

Tadashi Shoji using Pantone African Violet, a statement

color that brings a touch of intrigue to the palette, as

purples often do, and can be incorporated

into many unex-pected com-

binations.



Amethyst ring by Nanis

Amethyst and diamond ring by Palmiero

Amethyst ring

Multi-gemstone bracelet by ZiioMulti-gemstone bracelet by Ziio

Amethyst and diamond pendant by Azuelos Jewelry


Lapis lazuli

Lapis lazuli ring by Jane Taylor

Sapphire and diamond Sapphire and diamond earrings by Sharartearrings by Sharart

Lapis lazuli and diamond ring by Magerit

Lapis lazuli ring by Jane TaylorLapis lazuli ring by

diamond earrings by Tresor

Sapphire and


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Micro-mosaic and diamond watch by Sicis Jewels

Aquamarine and diamond ring by Mary Esses

Rose quartz and diamond ring by Ramon

Aquamarine and diamond ring by Romain Herzo

Aquamarine and diamond ring by Suna Bros

Diamond pendant by Garavelli

Blue topaz ring by H. Stern

Multi-gemstone pendant by Pearce Design

Titanium and diamond earrings by La Reina

Spinel and diamond bracelet by Dietrich

Diamond pendant by Bibigi

Saunder by Emily Saunder using Pantone Dusk Blue, a colour that offers a calming sense of

serenity.

Pamella Roland by Pamella DeVos using Pantone Linen, a warm neutral that is

light and airy, providing a nude-like basic that is a must-have for

spring.



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Representing the elegance and tradition of fine craftsmanship inherent in the Roberto Coin brand, The Fifth Season encompasses modernity and contemporary style for a fresh and youthful casual-chic look. Perfectly suited for today’s metropolitan dynamism, it represents the vision of a new generation, one that looks at the world with a diverse and original regard, one that is conscious of tradition while being sensitive to fashion trends and societal changes.

“My idea is that jewellery is connected to an attitude rather than an ideal concept,” muses Roberto Coin. “The name ‘The Fifth Season’ appropriately refers to a woman’s evolving sense of style. Since fashion changes as quickly and as regularly as the seasons, this jewellery collection adds to an already outstanding repertoire, allowing every woman to dress for her moods.”And dress for her moods, she can, with a collection designed in sterling silver featuring yellow, white, and

rose gold finishes, with some pieces incorporating both diamond and semi-precious stone accents. Among the styles are the popular basket weave and stingray motifs as well as pieces set with colourful gemstones. Crafted with a high concern for quality and excellence, The Fifth Season jewellery is produced entirely at the Italian factory La Quinta Stagione Spa, under the scrupulously professional and ethical eye of the Coin family. Maturity and experience of tradition clearly converse with modernity in The Fifth Season by Roberto Coin to offer an informal look at the world of luxury. (www.tfsbyrobertocoin.com)

Dynamic ElEgancE in ThE FiFTh SEaSon

Silver woven bangles plated in yellow gold, rose gold, rhutenium and rhodium.

With innovative and fresh designs, the jewellery of The Fifth Season by Roberto Coin evokes clean, refined lines, offering an informal look at the world of luxury.


p r o f i l e

Silver rings plated in rose gold with amethyst, rhodium with citrine and rhutenium with lemon quartz.

Silver bangles in electroform handmade diamond cut finish with different galvanic colours.

13.98 ct emerald cut in our Bogotá workshops, from a 51.95 ct rough,mined in Muzo, Colombia, February the 29th 2012.

BaselWorld 2013 – April 25-May 02 – Hall 3.0, Booth D31

www.muzoemerald.com

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The group achieves this with four different brands dedicated to different customer segments, each offering high-quality products that bear witness to the extreme precision and originality of manufacturing “Made in Italy”, built around the BlueWhiteDiamonds name, which is the historical company name of the original diamond and gem importer that continues to offer an unparalleled service in this field.

JJewels Milano, a young and refined brand of unique high-end fashion jewels whose creations redraw the boundaries of traditional jewelry and create highly refined pieces that help to enrich a woman’s charm and elegance. Leaderline Milano, a well-established brand that endlessly experiments and researches the design and creation of its unusual collection, is a trend setter brand that sets the fashion rather than follow it. Duepunti Milano offers an innovative concept with a new way of wearing the “classic” diamond in an unconventional style. It is the perfect fusion between luxury, technology and revolutionary materials.(www.bluewhitegroup.it)

BlueWhiteGroup’s

full-service diamond offerinGsBorn from BlueWhiteDiamonds, which started out as an importer of diamonds and precious stones over 30 years ago, the BlueWhiteGroup today has ambitions to be the reference in the world of diamonds and jewellery by offering a range of products to satisfy even the most demanding customers.

p r o f i l e

DUepUNTi. ring Collection. Non-Allergenic silicon ring, silver 800°° setting, 0.002 cts diamond.

JJeWelS. “Arcobaleno” Collection. 18 Kt gold with chalcedony, lilac jade and lemon quartz cabochon, irregular and round sapphires, and diamonds.

leADerliNe. “Sweet Moon” Collection. 18 Kt gold with moon

stones, diamonds and natural pearls.

Multi-gem and diamond ring by Alessio Boschi

Multi-gem and diamond pendant by Temple St. Clair

Sapphire, ruby, and emerald ring by Paolo Piovan

“Notre Dame South” pendant in enamel and gold

by Commelin

Multi-gem ring by Vianna Brasil

Outfit by Laurel (Photo: Mercedes Benz

Fashion Week Berlin)

Multi-gem and diamond pendant by Effy Jewelry

Sapphire, spessartite, and tsavorite cuff by Georland

Multi-gem and diamond necklace by Eclat Jewelry

T O P T E N T R E N D S

Top Ten Trends in Jewellery Design for 2013In this issue of CIJ Trends & Colours, our annual trends tracker guide, we present the top ten trends for jewellery design for 2013, with examples from designers

around the globe.


1 Mix & Mingle

Although single-tone colours are still prevalent

in jewellery, as in fashion, designers in both domains are mixing it up with contrasting or complementary shades to create a variety of pieces in

a rainbow of harmonious colour.

Multi-gem and diamond cuff by

Zorab Atelier

Multi-gem ring by Joanna Angelett

Bi-colour tourmaline ring by Jochen Pohl

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Sapphire and diamond pendant by Vida

Gemstone and diamond brooch by Mark Schneider

Gold bracelet by Barbara D’Oro

Porcelain and diamond ring by Meissen Joaillerie

Outfit by Maria Escote (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)

Ruby, sapphire, and diamond pendant by Ponte Vecchio

Diamond and gold cuff by Rina Limor

Top Ten Trends in Jewellery Design for 2013

2 Flora & Fauna

Ruby, tsavorite, and diamond ring

by MVee

Ruby, sapphire, and diamond


Limited edition automatic watch in gold, enamel, and diamonds

by Blacksand

Since antiquity, jewel-lery has been created to

denote the natural world. For 2013, the most popular flora and fauna are flowers, butter-flies, birds, fish, frogs, snakes, insects, and jungle animals,

notably tigers, in realistic and stylized designs.

Diamond necklace by Piaget


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Collezione Optic Chic - www.leaderline.it

LLT&C.indd 1 11-12-2012 10:53:58

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Gold-plated silver earrings by Daniel

Espinosa

Gemstone and gold earring by Vicente Agor

Gold and diamond bracelet by Damiani

Gold and diamond earring by Carla Amorim

Amethyst and diamond ring by Luca Carati

Diamond pendant by MVee

Gold, silver, and onyx earring by Vahan

Gold and diamond ring by Nanis



3 Lacy Looks

Gold earring by Lisa Nik

Lacy looks have increased over the last few years as designers innovate with techniques such as laser technology and electroforming, as well as traditional fili-gree. A creative counterpoint to the eco-nomic times of the day, these designs come in all types of metals and materials, with or without gemstones, to create a

more luxurious look for less.

Outfit by Hannibal Laguna (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)



Gold earring

with or without gemstones, to create a

Amethyst and diamond Amethyst and diamond

Gold and diamond ring by Nanis

Gemstone and gold earring by Vicente Agor

Gold and diamond bracelet by Damiani

Gold-plated silver earrings by Daniel

Gold and diamond earring

Silver and onyx earring by Hera

Gold pendant by Carrera y Carrera

www.jjewels.it Collezione Barocco

JJT&C.indd 1 11-12-2012 11:00:20

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Diamond, gemstone and enamel ring by

Lydia Courteille

Blackened silver and gemstone ring by Daniel Espinosa

Silver bracelet by Stephen Webster

Gold and diamond ring by Madstone

Gold and diamond ring by Hellmuth

Sapphire and diamond ring by MVee



4 Going GothicDiamond and gold

ring by Vida

The most popular motif of the edgy gothic trend is the skull. Interpreted literally and figuratively, in gold, silver, and other types of materials, the skull is sometimes made with diamonds, gemstones, and enamel. Gothic pieces are so popular that even prestigious mainstream brands are adding

gothic to their traditional lines.

Outfit by Maya Hansen (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)

Diamond and gemstone bracelet by Pippo Pierez

Diamond and sapphire earrings by Sharart

Design

Gold and diamond earrings by Octium

Diamond and ruby earring by Cris Porto

Sapphire and diamond earrings by Bizzotto

Sapphire and diamond earring by

Miiori

Multi-gemstone and diamond earrings by Vianna Brasil


5 Happy Hoops

Silver, gold, zircon, and enamel earring

by Misis

Outfit by Francis Montesinos (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)

Diamond and pearl earrings by Reena Ahluwalia

Diamond and ruby earring by Cris Porto

5 Happy Hoops

Earrings are the most popular form

of jewellery and hoops are the most popular form of ear-rings. No longer merely round or in metal, they come in many shapes and sizes, adorned

with diamonds, pearls enamel, and gem-

stones.

Gold and diamond earrings by Dana David

Diamond “St. Moritz” earrings by Antonini

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Peridot and gold earring by

Goshwara

Diamond earrings by La Reina

Diamond and gemstone pendant by Jorg Heinz

Ruby and sapphire earring by Rina

Limor

Pearl and diamond earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels

Sapphire and diamond earrings

by MVee



6 Tempting Tassels

Rubellite and gold pendant by Syna

Outfit by Agatha Ruiz De La Prada (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)

Emerald, diamond and pearl pendant by Katerina Maxine

Gold and gemstone earring by Alberian & Aulde

The tassel trend is continuing into 2013 with a wide variety of earrings and pendants in a multitude of gemstones, rough diamonds, seed pearls, and

metallic chains.

Diamond and gold cuff by Amrapali

Silver cuffs by Old World Chain

Silver, gold, and gem cuff by Maevona

Opal, silver, and gold cuff by Victor

Veylan


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Diamond and gold cuff by

Coomi

Outfit by Roberto Torreta (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)

Silver and gold Mokume Gane cuff by Pierre-Yves

Diamond, emerald, and ruby cuff by EV Jewelry Design With their strong wide design, cuff

bracelets are fashionable for every season. Worn in a variety of creative ways—on the wrist or as a signature piece on the upper arm—cuffs offer the perfect way to add individuality to

any ensemble.

Diamond, gold, and enamel cuff by Masriera

Silver and gemstone cuff by Metalsmiths

SterlingSilver and gold cuff

by Lika Behar

Gemstone and silver cuff by Thistle & Bee

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Sliced diamond and gold earrings by Bavna

Geode ring in gold and argentium by

Jenny Reeves

Sliced emerald and diamond ring by Coomi

Amethyst nugget bracelet by Nicoletta Cei



8 Au Naturel

Raw diamond and silver brooch by

Todd Reed

Outfit by Roberto Verino (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)

Sliced diamond earring in silver and gold by

Victor Veylan

Sliced pink tourmaline and gold earrings by Mauro Felter

The move towards more a natural look is reflected in jewellery with “raw” gemstones such as geodes or other minerals and crystals combined with silver and gold, as well as sliced and rough diamonds, sapphires, emeralds,

and tourmalines.

Pink tourmaline and gold earrings by Margery Hirschey

Amethyst geode and silver bracelet by Pamela Huizenga

Aquamarine and apopolite pendant by Pearce Design

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Gemstone, gold, and cord bracelets by Bellon

Diamond, enamel, gold, and cord bracelet by Aaron Basha

Moonstone, gold, and cord bracelet by

Jochen Pohl

Antique Venetian bead, gold, and leather bracelet

by Dada Arrigoni


9 Hanging by a Thread

Leather, gold, and golden pearl bracelet

by Jewelmer

Outfit by Farah Angsana (Photo: Mercedes Benz

Fashion Week New York)

Gold and cord bracelet by Le Téo & Blet

Diamond, gold, and cord bracelet by Pippo Perez

As an alternate to gold or silver bracelets, one of the fastest rising trends involves gemstones or precious metals, in a vari-ety of colours and designs, attached to a cord, with or without a precious metal clasp. These cords may be thin, almost thread-like, or woven fabic, leather, and

even rubber.

Diamond, gold, and cord bracelet by

Mattioli

Gold and leather bracelet by Oromalia

Diamond, gold, and cord

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Ring in gold, tourmalines, and diamonds, that remembers its shape thanks to thin inner strips of titanium alloy providing flexibility and resistance by Mattia Cielo

Silver ring with interchangeable and coloured aluminum bands by Reglisse

Flexible bracelet that stretches, in gold and diamonds by Fope



10 A Step Beyond

Outfit by Eva Soto Conde (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)

Gemstone and diamond ring featuring little hiding places to conceal small surprises by

Alessio Boschi

Thanks to a remarkable rotating mechanism, the cen-tre of this pearl, emerald, and diamond brooch turns, providing an unexpected show of sparkle by Re’Volve

Innovation in the jewellery world has produced some surprising creations. From technically sophis-ticated flexible bracelets to hidden compartments that spring open with a touch, from interchangeable elements to pieces with remarkable moving parts, these innovations create not only beautiful designs,

but also go a step beyond.

Ring with two pirouet-ting cubes made in opal, diamonds, and gold by

Sharart

A diamond and gold ring that expands to fit the finger by Armas

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In 1929, Isabelle’s grandfather, René Grospiron, left his village in the Jura Mountains of France and opened a lapidary company in Paris. Known for its superior craftsmanship, the Jura Mountain region has been home to some of the finest stonecutters since the 17th century. As watchmaking in Geneva grew, so did the need for cut stones. During the harsh Jura winters, farmers spent long hours on their lapidary bench. The number of cutters grew from 700 in 1760 to over 8,000 in 1920. It is this culture of fine craftsmanship that Isabelle’s grandfather embraced.Excellence continued to flow through her family as Isabelle’s father, Daniel Piat, an internationally renowned gemmologist, joined the business in 1961, giving it a strong push forward. Travelling throughout the major mining areas of the time—Columbia, Brazil, Burma, Thailand, and Cambodia—he searched for the finest raw gems for the company’s cutting facilities.With ever-expanding demand, Isabelle’s older brother, Eric, opened a facility in Thailand to source and cut gems, thereby ensuring only the finest quality. Her

younger brother, Emmanuel, joined the Parisian family business that provides the Place Vendôme’s most-renowned brands with their rarest gems.As a child, Isabelle also showed a passion and genius for selecting exquisite gems, having been introduced to stonecutting by her grandfather, and gemmology by her father. Drawing jewels had been Isabelle’s passion since she first played with the

contents of her mother’s jewel box and marvelled at Empress Farah Diba’s crown for which her father provided gems. Later, it was her aunt, Catherine Vassort—whose company Isabelle joined after completing her business studies and one of the most

prestigious Haute Joaillerie workshops of the time—who introduced Isabelle to creating jewellery. There, her innate sense of colour blossomed. In 1993, Isabelle started her own company and collections. The reaction was immediate and so was the demand—first in Europe, then across the globe. As her brand grew, so did her need for ever more beautiful precious gems and expert manufacturing and quality control. By this time, Eric had assembled a high-performing workshop under French management in Bangkok. There, her captivating designs are brought to life. In 2010, Isabelle discovered a small Parisian courtyard at 12 rue de la Paix—just opposite Cartier’s main shop. It was the perfect address to showcase her creations, and where today she often personally welcomes her customers. Isabelle was born to beauty, but it’s her remarkable talent that allows each of us to experience the colour and magnificence she brings to every jewel. (www.isabellelanglois.com)

ISABELLE LANGLOIS – BORN TO BEAUTYOne glance at Isabelle Langlois’ stunning collections and you know there is a master designer at work. The intricacy and balance of each perfectly crafted piece evokes a sense elegance and desire. And it’s no wonder. She comes from a heritage of supreme craftsmanship and beauty.

By Diana S. Zimmerman

P R O F I L E

younger brother, Emmanuel, joined the Parisian family business that provides the Place Vendôme’s most-renowned brands prestigious

younger brother, Emmanuel, joined the younger brother, Emmanuel, joined the

contents of her mother’s jewel box and

G E M S T O N E S

Faceted Mozambique rubies, showing three unheated stones (back row) and two heated gems (front row).

BUYING GEMSTONES AND JEWELLERY WITH CONFIDENCE

A large segment of the jewellery industry today involves coloured gemstones. Along with the growing use of these gems comes an increasing number of ways to enhance nature’s creations. To learn more about buying gems and gemstone jewellery with confidence, we took the opportunity, on a recent trip to Bangkok, to visit the very modern and well-equipped Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand (Public Organization). Established in 1998 under the visionary leadership of Professor Sakda Siripant, the GIT is accredited by the World Jewellery Confed-eration (CIBJO) and is a member of the Laboratory Manual Harmonization Committee (LMHC), made up of the world’s five leading gem laboratories. Services include the analysis of gemstones and metals with related certif-icates, as well as research and training, among other gem-related activities. We sat down with the GIT Director,

Mrs. Wilawan Atichat, to learn more about issues relating to gemstone treatments.

Interview conducted by Cynthia Unninayar

Professor Sakda Siripant, founder and former director of GIT, and Mrs. Wilawan Atichat, current director.

CIJTC: Not too long ago, a major department store in the USA was called on the carpet for selling jewellery with lead-filled rubies, a treatment that was not disclosed to the consumer. We occasionally hear of other examples of gems that are ‘enhanced’ in some way. How important is gem treatment in the industry today?

Wilawan Atichat: Since time immemorial, gemstones have played a major role in jewellery. And, also since early times, people have come up with ways to change or enhance the quality of gems. More recently, they have created synthetic stones. What is important, however, is not whether a stone has been treated or created, but whether the customer is made aware of this information, and can thus make an informed buying decision.

CIJTC: What is the most common treatment?

WA: Centuries ago, people discovered that by applying heat to a gemstone, they could change its colour and clarity. Using a charcoal fire, for example, they could transform a drab stone into a beautiful one. As with all other fields involving technology, many advances have been made in gem enhancements. Today, ovens and techniques are more sophisticated. Most gemstones are heat-treated, and this is a commonly acceptable practice as long as the treatment is disclosed. For example, less than one in 1,000 sapphires is un-heated, making these gems very rare and thus very valuable.

CIJTC: What are the gemstones that are most commonly heat-treated?

WA: There are many, but among the most common is amethyst. Heating pale amethyst will turn it into the popular yellow-orange citrine [Editor’s Note: see the article In Search of Amethyst and Citrine in the Winter 2012 issue of CIJ Trends & Colours]. Tanzanite is heated to change it into the beautiful purplish-blue shades. Sapphires are heated to lighten or inten-sify their colour and to improve uniformity. Heat will also improve or change the colours of such gems as rubies, morganite, kunzite, zircon, and tourmaline. Aquamarine is subjected to heat to remove the greenish undertones to obtain a bluer stone. These are but a few examples.

CIJTC: How can you tell if the stone is heated?

WA: Heat modifies the natural inclusions found in gemstones, including gas or fluid inclu-sions. In the laboratory, our gemmologists examine and study the inclusions, and can tell how the stone has been heat-treated.

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A sample of unheated Paraiba tourmaline (above) and the same sample after heating (below), showing the change to the prized characteristic neon blue colour.

Using the world’s most advanced gem instruments, GIT provides a variety of testing and certification services for both consumers and the trade, as well as other related services, including testing the pu-rity of precious metals. The lab’s highly experienced gemmologists also have a strong background in mineralogy and geology. At right front, Mrs. Wilawan Atichat, GIT’s director, examines a gemstone.

CIJTC: If heating is common and acceptable, what are some of other treatments that are less acceptable or not acceptable at all?

WA: People are always coming up with creative ways to modify gems to make them more attractive. These include irradiation, dyeing, fracture filling, and diffusion, among others. Some of these enhancements are stable, but others are not, which is tantamount to cheating the customer. There is also the issue of synthetic stones.

CIJTC: What are some of the major ‘trends’ in gemstone treatment other than heating? WA: We have all heard lately about labs receiving synthetic diamonds as natural stones, and the same thing happens with coloured stones. One of the ‘hottest’ trends today is synthetic corundum being sold as natural ruby. We are even seeing synthetic rubies that are filled with lead glass! Other concerns involve artificial samples that people attempt to pass off as rare natural gems. Recently, our lab saw two purported samples of Haüyne, a rare and beautiful blue mineral that was discovered in 1807 by René Hauy. As it turned out, they were nothing more than blue glass.

CIJTC: You mention rubies filled with lead glass. Can you elaborate?

WA: Rubies that contain fractures or fissures can be ‘repaired’ by filling these fractures and cavities with glass mixed with lead or bismuth to increase the refractive index of glass to make it closer to that of ruby. As a result, fractures or cavities can be disguised, which improves both clarity and colour. This method was invented in about 2004 for improving the low-quality and highly-fractured corundum, especially rubies and orangey-pink sapphires, which come mainly from localities in East Africa. This method is not new, but has been used in diamond treatment, the so-called ‘Yehuda’ treatment, as well as in emeralds treated with resins. A major problem, however, with these types of treatments is that the glass filler is not stable and can easily deteriorate, thus finally ruining the appearance of the stone. It is important therefore that the customer be informed about this treatment and its stability or lack of stability. If customers want to purchase these stones, they must be made aware of this.

CIJTC: You earlier mentioned diffusion as a treatment. What is beryllium diffusion and how and when is it used?

WA: Diffusion is a controversial treatment. It consists of heating a gemstone in contact with certain chemical elements. The high temperatures allow those elements to penetrate the gem, where they can influence the colour or even produce a star effect. In the case of sapphires treated with beryllium, the result is a yellow colour, or a reduction of blue colour, depending on the makeup of the stone itself. Since beryllium is a tiny atom, it can easily be diffused into the sapphire, sometimes penetrating the entire stone.

An example of a purported Haüyne gem (top) that turned out to be blue glass, as seen from analysis of the microscopic synthetic Wollastonite crystals (below).

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G E M S T O N E S

Colourful faceted sapphires that have undergone beryllium treatment.

Microscopic view of light reflecting off a fissure filled with lead-glass in a ruby.

Natural sapphires (above) and those heated with beryllium to change their colour (below).

CIJTC: Last year, there was much talk in the industry about irradiation of gemstones, raising fears relating to blue topaz. Is this still a ‘hot’ topic?

WA: Gemstones can be subject to radiation to enhance and deepen their colors. They can be irradiated in a nuclear reactor (neutron bombardment), an accelerator (electron bombard-ment), or by exposure to gamma rays in a cobalt irradiator. The most commonly treated stone is topaz, which becomes blue as a result of the exposure to radiation plus annealing. There have been some fears among consumers about this treatment, especially in relation to blue topaz. In fact, nearly every blue topaz sold today has been irradiated. In nature, topaz is usually colourless or very light blue. When subjected to radiation, its crystal structure is modified in the way it absorbs the frequencies of light, and this then changes its colour. The U.S. Nuclear Regulatory Commission regulates the initial distribution of gemstones (most notably, blue topaz) that have been irradiated in a nuclear reactor or accelerator to enhance their colours. Confusion still persists in the marketplace about the commission’s role in the regulation of these stones and their safety. The NRC believes that irradiated gemstones currently on the market are safe and it has not requested jewellers to remove them.

CIJTC: What are the most common gems you analyze in the lab, and also some of the more unusual stones?

WA: Being in Thailand, the most common gems the GIT is asked to analyze are rubies and sapphires, but we see really all types. In terms of unusual gems, the lab occasionally receives stones that are claimed to be Pallasitic peridot. They are greenish-yellow gems from outer space that are found in Pallasites, a very rare type of stony-iron meteorite, which contains the semi-precious gemstone peridot (olivine) embedded in an iron-nickel matrix. We are able to distinguish them from terrestrial, and less expensive, peridot by comparing their specific gravity and trace-element content, such as manganese and nickel.

CIJTC: Does GIT ever double-check samples that have been tested by other labs that the owner is still concerned about?

WA: Yes, this happens on occasion. Just a few weeks ago, we received two gems to verify the results, which had previously been certified by another lab as natural rubies. Our analysis, however, showed the two stones to be, in fact, synthetic.

CIJTC: With all the equipment and techniques for analyzing gemstones, how could the other lab have made such a significant error?

WA: I cannot comment on why it happened at the other lab, but to ensure that mistakes don’t happen at GIT, each sample is analyzed independently by at least three technicians, and the results are then compared.

WA: I would like to conclude by saying that most gemstones traded in the market today are enhanced in some fashion. But, without treatment, the world would not have enough beautiful gems to go around. Enhanced gemstones offer a less-expensive alternative for consumers and, in some cases, provide colours that do not exist in nature. There is nothing inherently wrong or illegal about selling enhanced gems as long as the enhancement is fully disclosed to the consumer at the point of sale. As I mentioned, some enhancements are stable and are commonly accepted practices. Others are not stable and should be avoided. It is therefore important that customers, whether retailers or consumers, purchase gems and jewellery from trusted dealers. When in doubt, especially if the stone is valuable, they can always ask for a certificate from a respected laboratory.40

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Joanna (Trummer) Angelett is a perfectionist who oversees every detail of her masterful pieces—from design through completion—even the cutting of special stones. With creativity as her trademark, she focuses on pushing the boundaries of design by using the latest CAD and laser technologies. The magnificent sapphire flower in Veronica Perfoliata with its complicated design and stunning effects is just one example. Like so many of her pieces, the ring is magical, celebrating an Australian legend about the mysterious rare blue flower for which it is named. In 1996, just four years after founding her design and diamond cutting business, Olgene & Co, Joanna successfully represented Australia in the International Design Competition Jerusalem 3000. Her spectacular Cup of David garnered worldwide recognition, launching what she describes, as a “fairytale” career. In 1998, she renamed the company Jewellery Art Gallery and relocated to Perth in Western Australia. On its opening day, among the many guests who attended the ceremony were the Ambassador of Israel to Australia, His Excellency Samuel Moial, and the Lord Mayor of Perth, Dr. Peter Nattrass.

Joanna’s pieces are prized by collectors around the globe. Her Golden Cross of Life is in the Vatican. “In 2000, my career was highlighted,” she says, “by the blessing of my creativity by His Holiness Pope John Paul II.” Joanna is proud that she “is the only artist in the world to be given this unique honour.” Shortly thereafter, her project, Menorah – Tree of Life, was critically acclaimed by the Prime Minister of Australia. In 2002, the Governor-General of Australia, Dr. Peter Hollingworth, ordered an official copy of her now famous Golden Cross of Life. He even introduced the Menorah project to Queen Elizabeth II. The Queen’s letter, expressing appreciation for Joanna’s original talents, inspired the Royal Garden Collection. With worldwide demand for her pieces rising, Joanna opened the Angelett Gallery in Los Angeles. It soon became “the place” for those “in the know” to find new and unique designs. With her U.S. presence gaining ever more critical acclaim, the Office of the Governor of New York invited her to meet with then Secretary of State, Dr. Randy Daniels, whose department also ordered a copy of the Golden Cross of Life.

In 2006, she was recognized by the Home Office in the United Kingdom as “The Artist with Significant Achievement.” In 2007, she opened the Angelett Gallery in Sussex, England. A year later, Joanna relocated her company to London. By 2009, her Royal Collection was being exhibited in many prestigious London venues, including the Mansion House and Goldsmith Hall.Honours came again in 2010, when her After the Rain ring, from the Royal Garden Collection, received an award from the United Kingdom Palladium 2010 competition sponsored by the British Jewellers’ Association. I could never have imagined such an amazing life,” she says. “If my story encourages others, it will be one of my most important achievements.” www.angelettgallery.co.uk

Joanna angelett – From SnowdropS

in perth to royal garden in london

“Veronica Perfoliata” ring from the Royal Garden Collection,

made with a 7.33-ct sapphire cabochon, diamonds, and

18K gold.

Dr. Peter Hollingworth, Governor-General of Australia, and artist, Joanna Angelett at Government House in Canberra, Australia.

Two decades ago, a talented young designer streaked onto the scene in her beloved land of Australia. Organic and magical in nature, Joanna Angelett’s captivating designs continue today to set standards for originality, beauty, and craftsmanship.


P R o f i l e

“Cup of David” in cloisonné enamel, gold, silver, diamonds, and

labradorite.

Award-winning “After the Rain” ring in palladium, pearl, and diamonds.

“Spring” ring from the Snowdrops Collection in 18K gold, pink and white diamonds, and Australian keshi pearl.

Muzo’s Magnificent eMeralds – redefining green

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p r o f i l e

According to Andean Indian mythology, emeralds were the tears that an ancient princess shed upon the death of her prince. The Muzo mines in Colombia, named after the tribe that inhabited this area, were in use for at least five hundred years before the Spaniards arrived in the New World in 1492.


When the conquistadores discovered the secret location of the legendary Muzo mines in 1538, they began a mining operation that would last for centuries. During this time, Muzo emeralds were sent all over Europe, to the Spanish Royal Court, and even as far away as India where they adorned the treasures of the great Moguls.

Today, the fame of the legendary Muzo mines carries on. Nestled in the foothills of the eastern branch of the Andes Mountains, 100 kilometres north-northwest of Bogotá, these mines continue to produce remarkable emeralds, gems that are prized for their size, clarity and, of course, their ideal colour—a saturated, pure green to slightly bluish-green.

Now, however, it is not the conquistadores, who extract these beautiful gems, but Muzo International, a branch of Texma Group, which obtained exclusive mining rights in November 2009. When it comes to mining emeralds in Colombia, Muzo International takes a different and “greener” approach. With this company, it is about taking the gem from mine to market. After the emeralds are extracted, they are polished and facetted by the company’s skilled cutters, working under environmental initiatives and safety protocols that are among the strictest in the world.

With complete control of the value chain from mine to market, Muzo International thus ensures that both the stones themselves and the methods by which they have been processed are of the highest quality, and is the foundation for the three pillars differentiating Muzo emeralds:

- Quality: When necessary, only non-permanent cedar oil is used to embellish the stones. - Certified Muzo origin: Each emerald is accompanied by a certificate confirming its origin and authenticity as a Muzo emerald from a highly respected independent gemmological laboratory in Switzerland. - Traceability: Each emerald is individually numbered and can be traced back to the rough it originates from.

A 10.23-ct Muzo emerald, from an 81.62-ct rough, certified to be resin-free (photo: Muzo international).

This 15.54-ct Muzo emerald shows the saturated, pure green to slightly bluish-green colour characteristic of Muzo emeralds. (photo: Muzo international).

A 6.55-ct Muzo emerald, cut from a 10.06-ct rough (photo: Muzo international).

Muzo children at the school managed by Muzo international (photo: Serge Sibert).

An 8.76-ct emerald cut in Muzo international’s Bogotá workshops, from a 47.88-ct rough, mined in Muzo, Colombia, certified to be resin-free (photo: Muzo international).

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Throughout the entire process, Muzo International’s commitment to social, ethical and environmental standards remains steadfast, and is implemented via its Corporate Social Responsibility and environmental initiatives. And, it is not just its own workers who benefit, but the entire region. Reforestation, improved sanitary conditions, and public health campaigns with a focus on the control of tropical diseases through vaccination and increased awareness of risk factors are all part of Muzo International’s charter. The company’s goal is to create an organizational culture committed to sustainable mining development, which can promote personal and business growth in a responsible framework for the individual, the community, and the environment. And, all of this while producing beautiful emeralds.

Among the more exceptional gems to come from Muzo is the Fura Emerald. Discovered thirteen years ago, this 15,000-carat (2.270 kg) rough stone is five times larger than the more famous Unguentarium in the Vienna Imperial Treasury.

Muzo is also where the most valuable rough emerald in the world was found, based on outstanding colour and brightness. The 2,000-carat Tena was named for a mythical queen from that region whose tears were said to have created the emeralds. Its estimated worth far exceeds that of the emerald brooch once owned by Russian Empress Catherine the Great that sold at auction in 2010 for $1,650,500.

But it is not just about size. Muzo emeralds, in fact, come in all sizes and are prized for their quality, clarity, and ideal colour, which ranges from saturated green to a slightly bluish-green hue. One such stone, a

magnificent 12.01-carat blue-green emerald, shattered the world record for carat price at a Sotheby’s auction in Geneva garnering $1,440,219 for an unheard of $119,000 per carat. Another exceptional, transparent, and enhancement-free Muzo emerald (9.27-ct) sold at Christies for $835,682. The report from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute, certifying its Colombian origin stated, “Natural emeralds from Colombia of this size, colour, and purity represent a great rarity and the described gemstone is thus a very exceptional treasure.”

Clearly proud of its facetted gems, Muzo International also takes pride in the fact that its cutting workshops in Bogota have obtained ISO 9001 certification. This official recognition establishes a solid framework for a systematic approach of all internal processes in order to satisfy the expectations of its customers. Muzo International emeralds are sold exclusively through a network of representatives, which includes the most trusted names in the gemstone and jewellery industry.

By controlling every aspect of emerald production, from the mines through the expert cutting and polishing, as well as the marketing of the finished stones, Muzo International not only maintains absolute control over the quality of its stones, but is also improving the quality of life for an entire region. It is a company that is certainly redefining green. (www.muzoemerald.com)

Muzo region and the rio Minero river (photo: Serge Sibert).

The puerto Arturo winding shaft at the Muzo mines, depth of 150 meters (photo: Serge Sibert).

A Muzo miner finds a rough emerald (photo: Serge Sibert).

each important emerald is manually faceted and hand polished to achieve the perfect stone cut (photo: Serge Sibert).

Cutting experts analyze rough emeralds to understand the best cutting path (photo: Serge Sibert).

1. Tourmaline and gold earrings by Tresor (USA). 2. Kunzite, diamond, and gold earrings by Alice K (USA). 3. Kunzite, diamond, and gold earrings by Sunghee Kim/Azuelos Jewellery (Italy/Morocco). 4. Ruby and diamond earrings by Cleison Roche (Brazil). 5. Sapphire and gold earrings by Pamela Froman (USA). 6. Multi-gem, gold, and diamond brooch by Paula Crevoshay (USA). 7. Morganite, diamond, and gold ring by Yael Designs (USA). 8. Ruby, diamond, and gold ring by Priority Gems (India). 9. Multi-gem, gold, and diamond ring by Goldesign (Brazil). 10. Shoe by René Caovilla (photo: AS). 11. Tourmaline and gold bracelet by Pamela Huizenga (USA). 12. Princess Asscher-Cut sapphires set with gold and diamonds by Quadamas (USA). 13. Outfit by Gucci (photo: AS).

jewellery. They range from soft tones to brighter and bolder shades, with the colours represented by such gems as sapphire, morganite, kunzite, tourmailne, rhodolite, rubellite, amethyst, spinel, jade, topaz, diamond, pearls,

and a variety of other gems that are pretty in pink.

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14. Sapphire, diamond, and gold pendant by Vida (Hong Kong). 15. Amethyst, diamond, and gold earrings by Minawala (India). 16. Rhodolite, amethyst, diamond, and gold pendant by Casato Roma (Italy). 17. Amethyst and gold bracelet by Vianna Brasil (Brazil). 18. Multi-gem, amethyst, and gold earrings by Roberto Coin (Italy). 19. Amethyst, sapphire, diamond, and gold ring by Isabelle Langlois (France). 20. Amethyst, diamond, and gold ring by Gavello (Italy). 21. Pearl and sapphire necklace by Crivelli (Italy). 22. Amethyst, sapphire, diamond, and gold ring by Al Coro (Germany). 23. Rhodolite, amethyst, diamond, sapphire, and gold ring by Rodney Rayner (Britain). 24. Shoe by Jimmy Choo (photo: AS). 25. Sapphire, diamond, and gold ring by Alberian & Aulde (USA). 26. Outfit by Hannibal Laguna (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid).

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1. Yellow and white diamond and platinum earrings by Uneek (USA). 2. Lemon quartz and citrine earrings by Dietrich (Switzerland). 3. Citrine and diamond earrings by Marco Bicego (Italy). 4. Yellow and white diamond ring by Picchiotti. (Italy). 5. Lemon quartz and diamond ring by Vianna Brasil (Brazil). 6. Yellow and white diamond earrings by Sethi Couture (USA). 7. Citrine, silver, and gold ring by Joyeros EME de Mexico (Mexico). 8. Yellow and white diamond “Crisscut” ring by Lili Diamonds (Israel). 9. Yellow diamond ring by Cora (USA). 10. Citrine and diamond ring by Jafarov (Germany). 11. Outfit by Sung Jung Wan (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week New York).

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A warm cheerful colour evoking sunshine and happiness, yellow ranges from pale buttery hues to vivid sun tones. Fine jewellers create their lemony looks with gems that include sapphire, diamond, beryl, tourmaline, quartz, jade,

and citrine.

1. YellYellY ow and white diamow and white diamand diamond earrings by ond earrings by Vianna Brasil (Brazil). (Brazil). de Mexico (Mexico). (Mexico). 10. Citrine and diam Citrine and diamond ring by ond ring by

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12. Fire opal, diamond, and gold earrings by Pamela Froman (USA). 13. Orange chalcedony and white sapphire earrings by Suzanne Kalan (USA). 14. Mandarin garnet, yellow sapphire, and diamond pendant by Spark Creations (USA). 15. Citrine and diamond pendant by Yael Sonia (USA/Brazil). 16. Citrine and gold pendant by Jochen Pohl (Germany). 17. Citrine and diamond earrings by Katherine Jetter (Australia). 18. Multi-gem and diamond ring by Goldesign (Brazil). 19. Agate and diamond earring by Mark Schneider (USA). 20. Mandarin garnet and diamond bracelet by Erica Courtney (USA). 21. Citrine and gold ring by Costis (Italy). 22. Outfit by Ramy Brook.

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1. Tourmaline, diamond, and black rhodium-treated gold pendant by Dietrich (Switzerland). 2. Turqoise and lapis lazuli earrings by J Jewels Milano (Italy). 3. Opal and diamond ring by Alessio Boschi/Italian Design (Italy). 4. Blue topaz, diamond, and silver earrings by Jane Taylor (USA). 5. Turquoise and diamond pendant by Gay Freres (France). 6. Blue topaz, diamond, and enamel earrings by Victor Mayer (Germany). 7. Paraiba tourmaline and sapphire, bracelet by Stefan Hafner (Italy). 8. Topaz and diamond ring by Casato Roma (Italy). 9. Gold and gem ring by My Vice (Italy). 10. Sapphire and turquoise ring by Mousson Atelier (Russia). 11. Silver and topaz earring by Franco Pianegonda (Italy). 12. Turquoise and gold earring by Gurhan (USA). 13. Outfit by Angel Schlesser (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid).

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14. Aquamarine and diamond earrings by Gordon Aatlo Design (USA). 15. Multi-gem and diamond bracelet by Staurino (Italy). 16. Sapphire and diamond pendant by Antonini (Italy). 17. Topaz, iolite, sapphire, and pearl pendant by Isabelle Langlois (France). 18. Topaz, Iolite, diamond, and chalcedony ring by Ponte Vecchio (Italy). 19. Aquamarine and diamond earrings by Buccellati (Italy). 20. Paraiba tourmaline and diamond earring by Clementina Duarte (Brazil). 21. Sapphire and diamond ring by Green G (Hong Kong). 22. Topaz and diamond earring by Aaron Shum (Hong Kong). 23. Sapphire and diamond ring in platinum by Jack Kelege (USA). 24. Faceted tanzanite by AG Color (USA). 25. Blue zircon and gold ring by Gintare (USA). 26. Outfit by Bibhu Mohapatra (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week New York).

Aqua and royal blue are beautiful by themselves, but designers are also combining them to make a different statement. The favoured gems are turquoise, aquamarine, tourmaline, topaz, opal, iolite, sapphire, and lapis lazuli, as well as enamel.

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1. Peridot and gold pendant by Gordon Aatlo Designs (USA). 2. Enamel and diamond pendant by Nite (Italy). 3. Multi-gem and diamond brooch by Paula Crevoshay (USA). 4. Jade and diamond pendant by David Lin (USA). 5. Tourmaline and tanzanite earrings by Tresor (USA). 6. Peridot and gold bracelet by Suzy Landa (USA). 7. Peridot and diamond ring by Jane Bohan (USA). 8. Multi-gem cuff by Ziio (Italy). 9. Peridot and diamond ring by Carelle (USA). 10. Outfit by Diane Von Furstenberg (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week New York).

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The colour of balance and harmony, green is believed by some to contain the energies of Nature. These luscious tones are evoked by the yellowish

hues of peridot and beryl and the more grassy shades of tourmaline, tsavorite, jade, emerald,

opal, and onyx, as well as enamel.

NATURE’S COLOURS

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11. Tourmaline and diamond earrings by Kavant (Thailand). 12. Emerald and diamond earring by Eclat Jewels (USA). 13. Emerald and diamond earrings by Crivelli (Italy). 14. Green onyx and gold pendant by Shamila (USA). 15. Tourmaline and diamond earring by Erica Courtney (USA). 16. Emerald and diamond earring by Penny Preville (USA). 17. Chalcedony and iolite earrings by Maria Antonelle (Brazil). 18. Emerald and diamond earrings by Yvel (Israel). 19. Emerald and diamond earring by DeGrisogono (Switzerland). 20. Tsavorite, gold, and prasiolite ring by Opera Omnia (Italy). 21. Opal and diamond ring by Kabana (USA). 22. Emerald and diamond earring by MVee (Hong Kong). 23. Emerald (12.85-ct) by Muzo International (Colombia). 24. Outfit by Roberto Verino (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid).

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1. Pearl, diamond, and gold pendant by Oly Lynggaard (Denmark). 2. Pearl, diamond, and onyx earrings by Bibigi (Italy). 3. Black jade and diamond necklace by Robert Wan (Tahiti). 4. Diamond bangle by A.Link (USA). 5. Spinel, diamond, and quartz ring by Jean Marc Garel (France). 6. Onyx and diamond earrings by Sutra (USA). 7. Diamond earrings by Bapalal Keshavlal (India). 8. Enamel and silver ring by Kabana (USA). 9. Outfit by Emerson (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).

jewellery. One evokes the presence of all colour; the other its absence. These

elegant opposites often come in diamonds, sapphires, quartz,

pearls, onyx, agate, or jade.


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ELEGANT OPPOSITES1

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10. Diamond pendant by MVee (Hong Kong). 11. Pearl, diamond, and onyx earrings by Autore (Australia). 12. Diamond pendant by Luca Carati (Italy). 13. Diamond and tsavorite micro-mosaic watch by Sicis Jewels (Italy). 14. Ionized steel, gold, and diamond ring by Michael Weggenmann (Germany). 15. Diamond earrings by Sophia by Design (USA). 16. Diamond and moonstone ring by Elke Berr (Switzerland). 17. Enamel and diamond pendant by Hellmuth (Germany). 18. Shoes by Enio Silla for Le Silla. 19. Silver and topaz ring by Manya Rouman (USA). 20. Outfit by Maria Escote (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid).

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1. Rhodium-plated silver and pearl earrings by Misaki (Monaco). 2. Amber and gold-plated pendant by Isharya (USA). 3. Burnished silver, zircon, and enamel ring by Misis (Italy). 4. Gold, mother-of-pearl, and diamond watch by Damiani (Italy). 5. Diamond, sapphire, and gold pendant by Forever Jewels (Singapore). 6. Gold and diamond bracelet by Messika (France). 7. Diamond, sapphire, gold, and pearl ring by MVee (Hong Kong). 8. Multi-gem and diamond bracelet by Arunashi (USA). 9. Diamond ring by Sutra (USA). 10. Outfit by Teresa Helbig (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid).

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THE YEAR OF THE

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THE YEAR THE YEAR HEHEHE

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11. Emerald, diamond, pearl, and gold pendant by Utopia (Italy). 12. Diamond and gold earrings by Le Vian (USA). 13. Diamond and gold earrings by J Jewels Milano (Italy). 14. Emerald, ruby, gold, and diamond pendant by Dada Arrigoni (Italy). 15. Gold and diamond ring by Demarco (USA). 16. Tsavorite, ruby, diamond (Swarovski Gems), and gold ring by Marco Marchese (Brazil). 17. Emerald, amethyst, sapphire, and gold ring by Isabelle Langlois (France) 18. Gold, diamond, and turquoise bracelet by Amrapali (India). 19. Multi-gemstone, diamond, and gold ring by Paolo Piovan (Italy). 20. Diamond, ruby, and gold ring by Daniel Espinosa (Mexico). 21. Diamond, gold and enamel ring by Masriera (Spain). 22. Gold and diamond ring by Jolie B. Ray (USA). 22. Outfit by Valentino (photo: AS).

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Model, left: Outfit by Jesus Del Pozo (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid). Model, right: Raffaella Curiel (photo: AS). Jewellery images courtesy of Jewelmer.


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LIVING GOLD The exquisite golden Philippine South Sea pearl has soared in popularity over the last few years. Its inner glow combines luxuriously with gold, gemstones, and diamonds. And, no one knows better how to draw out its natural beauty than the prestigious

brand Jewelmer Joaillerie. (Jewelmer.com)

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S O C I A L M A R K E T I N G

SOCIAL MARKETING – TIPS, TRICKS, & TRENDS

Why should you invest at least 30 minutes a day on social network sites? Because large or small, in today’s world, every business is affected by Social Media

and its e-commerce partner, Social Marketing. Whether or not you are actively partici-pating, your business is being talked about online. Social Marketing enables you to

connect one-on-one or en masse with customers, both current and potential.


Even though Social Marketing can be complex, the basics are

not overly complicated.

Credibility

Commitment

Collaboration

Community

Content

Social Marketing

Despite spending hundreds of thou-sands of dollars to engage the biggest and “best” agencies, each of these companies have had major campaign disasters, and for different reasons. But at the heart of each failure was the lack of credibility—which is why it is the first of the five C’s.

CredibilityUnlike traditional advertising that simply pushes out content, Social Marketing is a two-way communication vehicle. As such, information is subject to scrutiny, feed-back, and challenge. Even the slightest hint of content not being genuine or com-ing across as mere advertising can destroy

According to a recent Luxury Goods Worldwide Market Study, the sale

of luxury items (leather goods, textiles, watches, and jewellery) will cross the ten billion dollar threshold by 2013—with an increase of 20 percent a year thereafter. Although this represents less than 4 per-cent of the global luxury market, and only 1 percent of the total global e-commerce market, it’s still a formidable sum. Brands such as Tiffany, Michael Kors, Tacori, Louis Vuitton, Boucheron, and De Beers have all waged successful Social Marketing cam-paigns resulting in increased brand posi-tioning, awareness, and sales.

But you don’t have to be a megalith in the industry or have a massive market-ing budget to be successful in this space. Every day, millions of dollars are made by small companies and individuals who have learned the basics of this still mostly uncharted environment. It would take vol-umes to teach all the various techniques. Even the most experienced agencies and individuals have yet to master this power-ful communication tool. And, perhaps, be-cause of its highly personal and constantly evolving nature, they never will.

Even though Social Marketing can be complex—there are hundreds of tools available to help you along the way—the basics are not overly complicated. Just as a diamond’s worth is determined by the four C’s, Social Marketing’s success is determined by the five C’s: Credibility, Commitment, Content, Collaboration, and Community. Each plays a crucial role in developing and sustaining a monetized social platform. To violate any of them can spell failure, just as megalithic brands such as Sony, Virgin, Coca Cola, and Walmart have experienced.

an otherwise well-executed campaign. It is important to focus on information that is honest, straightforward, and benefits the reader. Save the hype for your website. Even there, content must be genuine.

It is also important to understand that credibility is not just about content. It’s 360 degrees in nature, including deliver-ing an overall great customer experience from initial contact, through purchase, service, and, of course, the product, itself. Social Marketing is, first and foremost, a relationship game, and without trust, it can quickly become game-over.

An excellent book on creating credibility is The Zen of Social Media Marketing: An Easier Way to Build Credibility, Generate Buzz, and Increase Revenue by Sharma Hyder Kabani. Some of the information may be a bit dated—Social Marketing is constantly evolving—but the basics re-main the same and this book has so many gems, it is well-worth reading.

CommitmentCommitment—or lack thereof—is probably the single biggest reason why most small businesses are unable to create and sus-tain a successful Social Marketing plat-form. Campaigns that instantly go viral are few and far between. Most take three to six months or more to realize benefits.

Having a Facebook page or a blog is not Social Marketing. They can be com-ponents of it, just as Twitter, Pinterest, Instagram, LinkedIn, and other target-specific social sites can be, but only when they are properly designed, maintained, and promoted utilizing a well defined and fully committed strategic approach. Even 30 minutes a day can make a big differ-ence once a campaign is up and running.

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Social Marketing is all about the customer, meeting his or her needs, not yours. Your job as a social marketer is to build trusted relationships; sales will follow. And that means engaging in conversations that allow you to listen to what they have to say—good or bad.

CollaborationWhile paying to be at the top of search engines is a great way to jump-start awareness, collaboration with your target-ed audience, bloggers, and other demo-graphic specific sites is far more powerful. Here, too, it is all about doing research to find the appropriate channels, then giving before you get.

Mention them in your blog, link them to your website, write a positive review of a product or book they sell, tweet about their website. In other words, start build-ing collaborative relationships. Feature complementary products and a link where they can be purchased on your site.

Handbags are one of the top searched luxury items. Why not feature an upscale brand with a special piece of your jewel-lery? This allows you to expand keyword searches, and begin to build collaborative goodwill utilizing products that appeal to the same customer base.

Unlike traditional advertising that simply pushes out content, Social Marketing is a two-way

communication vehicle.

Social sites should never be a dumping ground for advertising.

Social Marketing is all about the customer.

Everyone likes to buy, but no one wants to be sold.

request that you be credited. Many sites actually encourage it, with the condition that you credit the originator.

Build relationships by helping others before you expect favours from them. The same is true of customers. Ask for their opinions, genuinely listen to what they have to say, and then respond in a highly personal way. Never respond with canned or defensive answers. Customers may not always be right, but they always have the choice of going elsewhere—and will if they’re not made to feel valued.

objectives. The plan should include the integration of paid and free promotion, a mobile marketing component (the fast-est growing trend in Social Marketing), as well as analytic tools to measure progress. Larry Chase’s Web Digest For Marketers newsletter (wdfm.com) is an outstanding resource to find and remain current with the best tools in over fifty marketing cate-gories—and it’s free.

Determining the best social channels for your business depends upon your targeted demographic, time commitment, and available budget. It is far better to focus on three or four relevant sites, and keep them constantly refreshed, than try-ing to sustain too many.

ContentIn the world of Social Marketing, especially Mobile Marketing, dynamic content is king. Customers return when they know there will be something new and compelling to learn or experience. Be creative. Think outside the box. It could be the latest fash-ion or jewellery trends, a cool new product, or a great contest. Or perhaps viewers are encouraged to submit a picture of their favourite piece of jewellery and the story behind it. Each week, a new individual is featured. Successful campaigns allow your audience to participate, just as they do in any social gathering.

If content becomes stagnant or con-tains marketing hype, customers quickly lose interest and go elsewhere. Social sites should never be a dumping ground for advertising. Remember, everyone likes to buy, but no one wants to be sold.

Bloggers, especially those with large followings, can have an enormous impact in helping you build a community. They get inundated, however, with press releases, so do not send them yours. Instead, build a relationship by commenting on their blogs, mention how much you like them, add related information, tweet about spe-cific content, and link them to your sites. Offer discounts on your products for those who repurpose your content. While its never acceptable to directly lift content from other sites, without giving credit, be gracious when it happens, and simply

CommunitySocial Marketing is about building and sustaining a community of followers and collaborators. Each member has the po-tential to be an ambassador for your business—or the catalyst for destroying it. News on the web—good or bad—spreads instantly. Now, with millions of mobile con-nections, it spreads even faster. Ethics, integrity, and responsiveness are vital in maintaining a responsive community of supporters. Not every member will be a buyer, but every member can be an evan-gelist for your company.

No one truly understands why Social Marketing campaigns succeed or fail. Even the most knowledgeable experts don’t succeed every time. But by following these five C’s, you can greatly maximize your success.

Whether you’re an active participant or just starting to delve into this lucrative world, both the challenges and the oppor-tunities can be enormous. Once you under-stand the basics, however, and commit the time and resources to making it happen, the rewards are unlimited. Diana S. Zimmerman, a regular contributor to CIJ Trends & Colours, is president of CMS Communications Intl., a marketing commu-nications agency that helps companies with across-the-board live communication needs. She is the co-author of Tactical Abyss, a book on strategic marketing. www.cmsbiz.com

Naturally, the more effort you devote to it, the wider the audience you can reach.

Successful B2C marketing begins with establishing long and short-term goals, a realistic budget and time commitment, and then developing a comprehensive strategic plan that matches your specific

62

TRADE SHOW FOR JEWELRY AND WATCHES

FEBRUARY 22 – 25, 2013

MESSE MÜNCHEN, MUNiCH, GERMANY

iNHORGENTA.COM

inho13_AnzUebergang_205x265_E.indd 1 27.09.12 16:23

Sometimes, it’s good to look back, to the moment when things started.

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p r o f i l e

When, in February 2010, the Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair (ADTF) opened its doors for the first time, anticipation was high. It was the first time in more than four hundred years of Antwerp’s rich diamond history that the Scheldt City’s diamantaires threw the doors of their bourses’ trading halls wide open for jewellers to come in and get a taste of what had usually remained hidden—the widest possible selection of polished diamonds in the world.

Fast-forward to four years later. The anticipation among exhibitors remains high, but not because of beginner’s nerves. With the ADTF firmly positioned on the annual calendar of prestigious, international trade fairs, the exhibiting companies in the fourth edition of the ADTF 2013 are eagerly looking forward to welcome delegations of buyers from North America, greater China, the Russian Federation, the Middle East and, of course, Europe.

As a by-invitation-only trade fair, the organizers are receiving far more

requests from jewellery manufacturers and retail jewellers than they can handle and/or accommodate. The number of requests for return visits keeps rising as the dates of the ADTF come closer—and we are still more than three months away. Obviously, ADTF has gained recognition as a high-end, exclusive event!

So what is the secret of this fair? One visitor put it as follows: “After I visited the Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair, I realized that while I had known a lot about Antwerp, it was the first time I really understood Antwerp’s ‘diamond power.’ In Antwerp, at the ADTF, I got access to

a variety and choice of goods I had never been given before.”

So, from January 27 to 29, 2013, when the trading halls of the 110-year-old Antwerp Diamond Bourse and the even older Antwerp Diamond Club once again open their doors to the top echelon of the international diamond buyers community, Antwerp’s leading diamond firms once again will offer visitors an unprecedented array of business opportunities, enabling them to:

- Find new sources and forge new business ties and contacts. Buyers will find that the goods on offer are unavailable elsewhere in the diamond market and are offered at competitive prices, with world-class service and speed of shipping and delivery.

- View and compare diamonds in a rela-xed setting without the time pressure that is so often characteristic of other trade fairs. Buyers will see the exceptional selection of diamond goods on offer from more than 70 Antwerp diamond firms.

- Enjoy the social evening events that allow for continued networking and socializing in an exclusive atmosphere. Buyers will also discover Antwerp’s charming city centre with an organized tour. The fair offers visitors and their partners the chance to discover Antwerp’s exciting cultural and architectural heritage.

The 4Th AnTwerp DiAmonD TrADe FAir

w w w . a n t w e r p d i a m o n d f a i r . c o m

n Sponsored by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre

n Exhibitors : 70 Antwerp diamond companies.

n Visitors : jeweller retailers, designers, manufacturers.By invitation only.

n Info : www.antwerpdiamondfair.com

Ann. 205x265mm Trends.indd 1 05/10/12 10:26

IndIan Jewellery desIgn – Bollywood and Beyond

It was glamour, glitter, and grandeur in Mumbai last August when India’s Gems and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) hosted the third edition of India International Jewellery Week (IIJW) at the Grand Hyatt Hotel in Mumbai. IIJW is an initiative to showcase India’s finest jewellery in terms of design, innovation, craftsmanship, technology, and quality to customers around the globe. The world’s leader in diamonds, India is also the fastest growing manufacturing centre, and, this year, 32 of its leading designers and brands showcased a wide variety of styles and the latest trends at the five-day event. Adding even more glitz to this grand production, actress and model Soonam Kapoor, GJEPC’s brand ambassador, dazzled the runway wearing some of the most spectacular jewellery pieces made by Indian jewellery designers, as well

as Indian couture fashion. A number of other Bollywood celebrities also shared the ramp, along with popular models, and the shows were staged by leading Indian choreographers. Japan was even represented by the nation’s leading jewellery designer, the late Nobuko Ishikawa, a pioneer in introducing “design” to jewellery in Japan, whose designs were presented by his sister, Yoshie Ishikawa. To encourage new talent, there was also a spot for up and coming jewellery designers on

the runway. The event concluded with a majestic Grande Finale evening, where each participant featured extraordinary pieces in the “Best of the Best” line-up.

A Few Design HighlightsGitanjali Gems, the global jewellery group, followed their “Beti” concept that wowed audiences at the previous

66

m a r k e t p l a c e – i n d i a

When it comes to creating fine jewellery and spectacular events to showcase these elaborate pieces, there is no better example than the India International Jewellery Week, held just before the annual trade fair, India International Jewellery Show.


during the iiJW Grande Finale, Soonam kapoor, centre front, with the models wearing the “Best of the Best” creations.

diamond and ruby jewellery by iiJS participant priority Jewels.

67

edition. This year, their jewellery featured the mother-daughter duo, with various celebrity moms walking the red carpet.Laksh Pahuja, one of India’s most prominent designers, commemorated 100 years of the sinking of the Titanic. He presented a “Titanic” necklace, handcrafted with blue diamonds, silver, gold, Swarovski zircons, wood, and white diamonds. Among his other designs was a dragon headdress.Amrapali introduced the “Panna” collection in association with the emerald miner, Gemfields. Through five millennia, from Mogul magnificence to Hollywood glamour, the talismanic emerald has been lusted after for its seductive beauty and ravishing rarity, and the brand’s artisans worked in traditional Indian techniques

to showcase these green gems in a variety of designs.Dipti-Amisha, a sister team, re-created “treasure beyond measure” in a blend of vintage Indian contemporary styles and the romanticism of the royal Victorian era. In addition to gold and diamonds, the collection was crafted using emeralds, topaz, opal, ruby and pearls to offer a vibrant and colourful alternative to the line. Jewels Emporium brought forth its extravagant “Jadau” jewellery portraying a rich stimulating palette with a playful mélange of shimmering gold, vivid gemstones, and a variety of French enamelling in more than 350 different shades. Anmol Jewellers are well known for their endless imagination and lavish use

of colour. This year they presented a collection blending contemporary style with a touch of traditional Indian design.Kays Jewels presented its “Ambe Ambalike” collection, a celebration of womanhood. The main source of inspiration was the girl child at birth, the Kanyaa. For IIJW, Kays Jewels created a range of pieces for the contemporary woman, offering an eclectic mix of diamonds, rubies, and emeralds. On the traditional side, Kays also presented a range of traditional Kundan Gold Meenakari jewellery befitting the royals of the Mogul era.Zeenat Desai presented pieces that revitalized the jewels of India’s golden age, bringing them up to date for a new generation of fashion-forward women.

at iiJW, amrita arora walking the ramp wearing gemstone and diamond jewellery by agni Jewels.

Sonal chauhan walking the runway wearing jewellery evoking a blend of vintage indian contemporary styles and the romanticism of the royal Victorian era by dipti-amisha.

model wearing emerald and diamond jewellery at iiJW by amrapali, with emeralds from Gemfields.

model wearing diamond and gemstone jewellery at iiJW by Jewels emporium.

model wearing emerald and diamond jewellery at iiJW by Gitanjali.

model wearing ruby and diamond jewellery at iiJW by cappuchino collection.

model wearing diamond and ruby jewellery at iiJW by iGi (k.p. Sanghvi).

Natural gems and precious metals combined with innovative, edgy styling to give a fresh spin on traditional jewellery forms. The collection presented an eclectic array of Mogul-inspired jewellery with an avant-garde twist.

IIJS: New InitiativesThe 29th annual India International Jewellery Show (IIJS) welcomed pavilions from a number of countries including Thailand, Belgium, Israel, Turkey and the United Arab Emirates. Some fifty new exhibitors joined the IIJS this year, bringing the total to more than 800 companies from India and around the world, with a wide variety of products in gold, silver, platinum, gemstones, and other materials.The GJEPC, the show’s organizer and trade body promoting “Brand India,” indicated that the first half of 2012 was difficult for the nation’s jewellery industry, as manufacturers confronted inflation, the depreciation of the rupee, tight liquidity, high rough diamond prices, and a slowing of the Indian economy. Feelings at the show, however, were upbeat, despite these temporary fluctuations. Exhibitors were hopeful that the upcoming Indian festivals and wedding season would help increase sales.One of the new initiatives at the show was an exhibition of Filigree, Patwa, Bidri, and Bamboo jewellery, sponored by the

GJEPC, under the “Craft to Jewellery” banner. It also announced the creation of the Gem and Jewellery Skill Council of India, whose goal is to encourage designers and brands to incorporate traditional Indian crafts into their pieces. It is also seen as a way to help skilled artisans to earn a steady income so that these skills are not lost.A second initiative was announced by Sanjay Kothari, GJEPC vice chairman, who indicated that the organization would launch a three-year generic diamond marketing campaign in India and China for consumers. “India and China should take the lead in promoting diamond jewellery to the consumer public,” he stated, adding that the GJEPC was in talks with the Diamond

Administration of China (DAC). “India is the most important market for us and we have resolved to start our diamond promotion efforts right here. During the next three years, we intend to allocate two to three million US dollars per year toward this goal.” Kothari also called upon other diamond centers to join the consumer-focused campaign. During the IIJS, the RBS Solitaire Awards, under the gem-friendly theme of “Color Splash,” were given at a ceremony at the Grand Hyatt Hotel in Mumbai. The awards were divided into two categories: Competition A, for IIJS exhibitors and Competition B, for non–IIJS participants that included students and artisans.The sixth edition of the prestigious IIJS Signature show will be held in Mumbai from February 22 to 25, 2013. Next year’s IIJS 2013 will take place from August 8 to 12, in Mumbai.

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m a r k e t p l a c e - i n d i a

model wearing emerald, pearl, and diamond jewellery at iiJW by kays Jewels.

model wearing emerald and diamond jewellery at iiJW by kGk Jewellery.

model wearing a dragon headdress made of gemstones and diamonds in silver by laksh pahuja.

model wearing emerald and diamond jewellery at iiJW by Saboo Jewels.

model wearing diamond jewellery at iiJW, designed by the late nobuko ishikawa, a pioneer in Japanese design.

Silver sculpture designed by indian company moments, an iiJS participant, and crafted in italy, for sale in india by moments.

Increasing your profi ts by

expanding your colored

gemstone and pearl

business isn’t complicated.

Rely on trusted partners to

help build your business.

That’s why it is important

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Members. Each year they

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GemFair Tucson.

At the AGTA GemFair™ Tucson,

buy smart and buy safe in the

secure comfort of the Tucson

Convention Center where you

will fi nd the highest quality, best

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You’ll connect with US- and

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plus attend seminars and

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F E B R U A R Y 5 – 1 0

Show/Hotel Information: AGTA.org

Registration Hotline: 800-879-6259

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B U Y S M A R T

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Expanded Tools, Technology and Supplies PavilionDaily “At the Bench Live” Presentations by MJSA

February 5-8, 2013

AGTA Couture International Jewel1 1 12/3/12 5:43:07 PM

A perfect location to showcase luxurious Italian Style at the exclusive About J show was the prestigious resort of Cortina d’Ampezzo, nestled in the heart of the magnificent Dolomite Mountains. Following this by-invitation only event was VicenzaOro Fall, the second in the city’s trilogy of trade fairs.

ITALIAN DESIGN AND MORE AT CORTINA AND VICENZA

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M A R K E T P L A C E – I T A L Y

The luxurious Grand Hotel Savoia in the village of Cortina d’Ampezzo, the Queen of the Dolomites, was the setting for the exclusive About J event in September, which brought select retailers from around the world to see the products of 23 luxury Italian and international brands.“We chose this unique location in the Dolomites for this year’s About J since the UNESCO World Heritage site of Cortina d’Ampezzo is a fitting venue for the exclusive and unique business meeting of the international jewellery community,” explained Roberto Ditri, chairman and CEO of Fiera di Vicenza, organizer of About J and the trilogy of Italian jewellery trade fairs, VicenzaOro Winter, Spring, and Fall.

ReactionsAmong the exhibitors at About J event was Mattia Cielo, president of his eponymous Italian brand: “We have been exhibiting at About J for four years, since it started, and this year was the best ever. Strong orders and interest came from North America and the Middle East.” Similar sentiments were echoed by British designer, Rodney Rayner: “The show has been very good, and we have had several orders from buyers from around the world, including North America, Dubai, and Azerbaijan.”

Strong interest was also reported by Ricardo Vianna, president of Vianna Brasil, one of two Brazilian brands

at the event. “We are happy with the show, and made a lot of good contacts to follow up at the VicenzaOro show.”And follow up, buyers did. After About J, VicenzaOro Fall welcomed some 20,000 buyers from more than 109 countries, coming to see the products from 1400 exhibitors, mostly from Italy, but also companies from 30 foreign nations. After a few difficult years, the sector was looking for positive signs of encouragement and confidence, and the show seemingly did not disappoint. Pilar Coin, marketing director for Roberto Coin, stated: “We found a revitalized and optimistic business climate despite the difficulties that Europe is experiencing. We can put this result down to the

Gold and diamond “Diana” ring by Chimento.

Stackable gold and gemstone “Liberty Fashion” bangles by DiGo.

Burnished gold and diamond cuffs by Crivelli. Gold and black diamond charm by Rosato.


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enormous work that Fiera di Vicenza is doing with the VicenzaOro brand.” Eduardo Bruner, marketing & creative director of Brazilian brand, Brumani, said, “I found About J extremely interesting and it was a leisurely way to work and make contacts with the buyers. We were very pleased with the results at About J and VicenzaOro Fall.” Roberta Scanavin, CEO of Scanavin indicated: “It was the best edition of the year. We recorded ten new customers, including two from the USA, confirming that the market is recovering. We are extremely satisfied because 90 percent of the jewellery we sold was in gold.” As usual, buyers’ groups came from around the world, including a contingent from the recovering USA market. Among them was retailer Richard Eiseman: “I enjoyed the About J introductory event and was very impressed by the efficiency and organisational skills of the VicenzaOro staff who made it possible for us to appreciate Italian style and design. We will take home the gemstones and jewellery we selected here, which cannot be found in the United States, and present them to our extremely alert customers.” U.S. retailer, Alfredo J. Molina, was also impressed with the two events: “A symbolic change is needed. We have to concentrate on quality and the so-called ‘wow’ effect. We have to astound,

dazzle, and make a reasonable profit as the same time. We have to transform the business into a sector that sells emotion. Fiera di Vicenza is able to astound.”

More Than Just a Trade FairAs part of its ability to “astound,” the fair is continuing strategies to improve not only the fair itself but also to promote Italian design around the world. “We are proceeding with the four pillars of our strategy: new infrastructures, new organization of the events, new organization and development of the network,” summarized Ditri. In May 2012, the fair sponsored two major global conferences: The World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) and the World Diamond Council (WDC). It also organized an important debate about Corporate Social Responsibility, as part of the World Jewellery Forum with a wline-up of noted panellists.The fair’s high profile also captured world attention with its “Andrea Palladio International Jewellery Awards”—the Oscars of the jewellery world—which have been presided over by such notables as Gianmaria Buccellati and Nicky Oppenheimer. To encourage young designers, VicenzaOro Fall held its second edition of “Next Jeneration,” an international competition for under-30s designers from international schools

Multi-gemstone and gold ring by Opera Omnia.

Multi-gemstone and diamond ring by Ponte Vecchio.

Technically sophisticated ring evoking movement in 18K gold and gemstones from the Rugiada collection by Mattia Cielo.

Gold and diamond brooch by Vendorafa.

Colored silver bangles by The Fifth Season.

Whimsical gemstone and enamel ring by Santagostino.

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Diamond bracelet in the Siberian tiger limited edition collection by roberto coin.

Bangle made from the exclusive “Silverfope™” alloy, using the patented stretchable Flex’it technology, by Fope.

of design. The theme for 2013 is “Porte Bonheur. Contemporary amulets and lucky charms.” [The deadline for project entry is March 1, 2013.]The “TrendVision Jewellery + Forecasting” project is Fiera di Vicenza’s independent Research Centre. Drawing on social, cultural, political, and environmental factors, TrendVision proposes the most significant megatrends with spin-offs on contemporary jewellery design, production, and distribution.With the aim of promoting Italian jewellery around the world, the Fiera di Vicenza has formed partnerships with some of the world’s major trade associations and shows. These alliances include the Dubai World Trade Centre, Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council in India (GJEPC), T-Gold International (aimed at promoting exportation of Italian technology to China, Brazil, and India), and Reed Exhibitions (JCK show). Among other projects is the North American Buyer Cultivation Initiative, whose objective is to promote brand awareness and customer loyalty in the American retail market in collaboration with leading independent retailer organizations.

Italian DesignThe theme of this year’s show was “Creativity 5.0,” an illusion to the web 2.0 concept, but taking it to a higher

level. It involves reinventing strategies for companies in terms of product and process innovation, new distribution strategies, and better communication with consumers. Creativity was certainly not lacking at the fair. In addition to fine gold designs, many booths showcased a variety of colourful jewellery, evoked by gemstones or by enamel work, especially in floral designs, although blackened gold was

still a favourite. In response to continuing high gold prices, stylish silver pieces were seen nearly everywhere. Coming in the white metal or treated with a variety of colours or gold finishes, they clearly offered an alternative value. Charm-maker Rosato was back, this time under the umbrella of Bros Manifatture, parent company of Brosway, which decided to re-launch it at VicenzaOro in a sumptuous “experiential” setting. “For a brand with such a strong Italian-made heritage, how could it not be re-launched during the most important fair in the world,” mused Lanfranco Beleggia, CEO of Bros Manifatture. The brand remake involved eliminating the ambassadors (previously, Rosato employed Demi Moore and Liz Hurley) in favour of creating stories with its attractive little charms. Coming in both silver and a gold line, with or without enamel, the pieces show a surprising amount of detail, and will be marketed “in Italy and abroad through offline channels with carefully selected distribution in order to be ready for the future, depending on demand, for online sales,” explained Beleggia.Other examples of design creativity can be seen on these pages.VicenzaOro Winter will be held in January 19 to 24, 2103. (www.Vicenzaoro.org)(www.aboutjevent.it)

Sapphire and diamond ring from the “la Grande Onda” collection by palmiero.

Diamond and gold ring by Bonato.

ruby and sapphire rings set with diamonds by Garavelli.

CREATIVE DESIGN – THAI STYLE

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The golden jubilee edition of the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair showcased a wide variety of Thai designs, ranging from simple silver styles to sumptuous gold and gemstone creations.


The 50th edition of the bi-annual Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair (BGJF) was not only significant this year because it marked the event’s 50th show, but also because it hosted the First ASEAN Gems and Jewelry Presidents Summit Plus 6. Going back in history, the very first BGJF first took place in 1983 at the Dusit Thani Hotel with 48 booths. Held for three days, it was later extended to five. In 1993, it was held twice a year as it is today. This golden jubilee edition attracted 30,000 visitors who came to see the products in the 1800 booths, before the five-day event closed on September 17.This BFJF was opened by the Prime Minister of Thailand, Her Excellency Yingluck Shinawatra, who stated in her address, “The gems and jewellery industry has become one of the trade marks of Thailand today. Indeed, the Government has always recognized the important role of this sector as a means to showcase Thai creativity and craftsmanship as well as to help generate export revenue and tourism.” Commenting on the First ASEAN Gems and Jewelry Presidents

Summit Plus 6, she continued, “As Thailand becomes part of the emerging ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) in 2015, it is more important than ever that Thailand maintains its competitive edge in this industry. To this end, innovation, technology, new markets, appropriate sources of raw materials, and high standards of corporate good governance and social responsibility will all be key factors.”

The First ASEAN Gems and Jewelry Presidents Summit Plus 6 is the initiative of the Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association (TGJTA) and its president, Somchai Phornchindarak, who welcomed more than 40 delegates from Cambodia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, The Philippines, Singapore, and Vietnam, as well as representatives from dialogue partner countries China, India, Japan, and South Korea. This inaugural meeting signified the first step toward new and unprecedented levels of cooperation that could establish the region as a major contender in global gems and jewellery production and trading. “All ASEAN

thailand’s prime minister Yingluck Shinawatra, centre, cuts the ribbon at the opening of the 50th bangkok gems & Jewelry Fair, while to her left, Somchai phornchindarak, president of tgJta, and other dignitaries look on.

representatives to the First aSean gems and Jewelry presidents Summit plus 6 sign the moU for regional cooperation.

Specializing in original silver designs, goldlip created this pendant made from an opal, embellished with silver and gold and an orange sapphire.

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countries have their own gems and jewellery industry with different purposes and expertise,” explained Phornchindarak. “Under the AEC Blueprint, when the region becomes a single manufacturing base and consumer block (and trade free zone), this offers huge opportunities for every country.” The meeting concluded with the signing of the “memorandum of understanding” for regional cooperation.

Focus on DesignAs part of the BGJF’s Golden Jubilee Celebrations, the organizers honoured 27 exhibitors who have participated in all 50 Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fairs, with a gold-plated Dedicated Exhibitor Award. Among the other events was the Design Pavilion Trend 2013, a cooperative project of Swarovski Gems with the TGJTA. Dr Birgit Rieder, director of Trend and Design at Swarovski Gems, described the latest Gem Visions 2013 as an insight into global cultural megatrends, which are “full of all levels of emotion and senses. There is now an acknowledged shift in jewellery fashion

from complex designs to rare important gemstones. The designs will be more daring, and will call for more inspirations from everywhere, ranging from myth and fable to super-technologies, utilizing contemporary fusion of concepts, forms, materials and crafts.”Cutting-edge design trends were also showcased at the Creative Innovation Pavilion, a joint effort of Swarovski Elements with the TGJTA. Featured at the Creative Innovation Pavilion was Xirius 1008, Swarovski Elements’ newest brilliant crystal element.The 50th show was enjoyed the largest international participation to date, with exhibitors coming from 36 nations. A continuing highlight of the fair was the Ploi Thai Jewelry Creation Design Contest, showcasing the Thai country brand for gems and jewellery produced in Thailand. The leading brands that participate launch their new collections in time for the fair, and these include sumptuous gold, diamond, and gemstone creations, which sometimes take months to create.

among the ploi thai participants is beauty gems, which showcased a wide variety of fine jewellery including this sapphire and diamond ring.

the Zero Vat booth is exempt from the 7 percent value-added tax on imports of rough gems and raw materials into thailand for manufacturing.

gem and mineral carvings, by gems Sculpture, are handcrafted from a single block of natural stone, each of which is selected from more than 10,000 tons of rough material.

Silver jewellery takes on new meaning in these silver and gemstone creations by choon Jewelry, a member of the thai Silver exporters association.

thailand is thought of as the “ruby capital” so it’s no wonder that many thai manufacturers, such as Seven Stars Industries, create beautiful ruby and diamond jewellery.

one of the ploi thai entries was this pair of ruby and diamond earrings by Vbp International.

Thailand is the world’s largest producer of silver jewellery and to this end, the Thai Silver Exporters Association (TSEA) organized a special exhibit to showcase the products of their members and highlight the quality and craftsmanship of silver jewellery produced in the nation. This exhibit featured a variety of silver designs, from simple metal, to metal with crystal, to sophisticated pieces made with diamonds and colourful gemstones. “Our goal is to promote Thai silver jewellery as a ‘preferred brand’ among customers in the international marketplace. We are therefore focusing on four fundamental areas: Education, Communication, Member Benefit, and Government and Industry Relations,” explained Weerasak Lervisrt, president of the TSEA. (www.thaisilverexporteclub.com)

Marketing and Economic IssuesAccording to the Ministry of Commerce, exports of gems and jewellery between January and May 2012 were valued at

$4.5 billion, down 17.4 percent from the previous year. In the same period, imports were valued at $5.9 Billion, up 21.63 percent, giving a trade deficit of about $2.6 billion, due to gold bar imports. This industry is the fourth largest in Thailand (after cars and parts, computers and parts, processed oil).“The BGJF is the best marketing tool for the Thai gems and jewellery industry,” declared BGJF’s CEO, Suttipong Damrongsakul. “Despite the slowing economic situation in the USA and Europe, we are optimistic that our trading partners in these areas will soon recover. Thailand has a strong manufacturing base, but we still need to improve our marketing strategy.” He added that having duty-free situation like Hong Kong would be a boon for business. “The TGJTA has proposed that the government set up a tax-free period for one month during the fair to stimulate business, and if the green light is granted, I believe our industry will be much stronger.”

The BGJF has not waited for government actions, however, and has set up services to facilitate purchases, such as the Business Matching and Online Sourcing Project, which handled record numbers of business enquiries, linking buyers and sellers in an efficient manner. Many overseas buyers also seemed to appreciate the Gems & Jewelry Factory Outlet, where a wide range of products was available for immediate cash sale, without having to place long-term orders. The Zero Vat booth at the BGJF proved to be popular, as exhibitors were exempt from the 7 percent value-added tax on imports of rough gems and raw materials into Thailand for manufacturing. This clearly enhances Thailand competiveness to attract the world’s best gemstones. The 51st edition of the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair will be held February 26 to March 2, 2013. (www.bangkokgemsfair.com)

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colourful sapphires and rubies combine with diamonds in these earrings by ploi thai participant, paragon Worldwide.

Sapphires and diamonds create a beautiful necklace and ring by ploi thai participant, gem production.

model showing off creations featuring Swarovski elements.

Sapphires from Sri lanka that were faceted by thai-based tc mining International.

The 8th edition of the Singapore International Jewellery Show (SIJS) 2012 has ended on the good note on 15th July, and it has left a deep impression on all participants present at the show. While all good things come to an end, let us recap all the excitements present at the show! Opening its doors on the 12th, SIJS started off with an opening ceremony for its invited guests and VIPs. Amidst the elegant setting of the exhibition area, the guests find themselves fully immersed into the luxurious setting of the place. The guests were further treated to a captivating fashion show. They also got a glimpse of the brilliant jewelleries that were on display at the show. Tea party sessions were also held to people from various associations, and they were treated to workshops and talks, accompanied by quality bite-size treats. Soon after in the afternoon, SIJS was opened to the public, and visitors started pouring in, hunting down for the perfect jewellery. Within that day there were several talks held by professionals from the industry which proved to be relevant and useful to all industry players as well as the public in gaining a deeper insight on the world of jewellery and gemstones. A rare 99-carat Sapphire was also on display at the show, proving itself to be one of the main attractions for the visitors. Its brilliance and beauty definitely captured the hearts of its admirers. At the end of the day the daily purchase lucky draw was conducted, and the lucky winners walked home with them precious items sponsored by our very own exhibitors, with a diamond ring worth $12,000 being the prize for the grand draw, proving to be the climax of the show. Eight years of continuous success, four days of exhibition, one melting pot for all glittery inspirations. SIJS 2012 lands its footprints in Singapore as the largest and leading jewellery show catering to both trade and consumer sectors!

SIJS 2012 ends on a high note!

Fair DetailsVenue: Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Expo Drive, Wanchai, Hong Kong

Fair Dates & Opening HoursDates Opening Hours20 – 22 June 2013 10:30am – 6:30pm23 June 2013 10:30am – 5:30pm

Sponsors:• The Gemmological Association of Hong Kong• Gemological Institute of America (Hong Kong)• Hong Kong Gold & Silver Ornament Workers & Merchants General Union• The Kowloon Pearls, Precious Stones, Jade, Gold and Silver Ornament• Merchants Association

EnquiriesFor exhibiting details, please contact:Sales Department, Jewellery Fairs, UBM Asia LtdTel: (852) 2585 6179/ 2516 1677Fax: (852) 3749 7319Email: [email protected]

JUNE Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair 20 – 23 June 2013Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition CentreOne of the top three trade events of its kind in Asia, the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair (June Fair) attracts thousands of exhibitors and buyers from around the world. In 2013, the June Fair will run from 20 to 23 June at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC). It will offer international jewellers what UBM Asia’s events are known for: unmatched opportunities to tap into the world’s most robust jewellery markets, sell products to thousands of serious buyers from around the world, and cost-effectively market their brands on a global stage.

Magnet for Jewellery TradeSuperior LocationHong Kong -- Asia’s world city -- is the perfect springboard to the booming economies of mainland China and the rest of Asia. The city’s proximity to two of the world’s most robust jewellery markets: China and India, has made the city the preferred launch pad for companies looking to break into these markets.

Free-trade policy offers a business-friendly environmentHong Kong’s free-trade policy attracts traders from around the world to conduct business in the city. There are no duties or restrictions imposed on precious jewellery products or materials, enabling them to flow in and out of the city freely.

Ideal scheduleJune is just the perfect time for jewellers to restock in the middle of the year and update themselves on market trends for the coming seasons. The June Fair’s ideal schedule and a host of exciting offerings have propelled it to become the most important midyear jewellery event in Asia.

One trip • Two attractionsThe June Fair will be held concurrently with Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair – June (AFJ) also at the HKCEC. Buyers visiting the June Fair can enjoy free access to AFJ, thereby enriching their trip.

Clear product sectorisation enhances business matchingThe Fair’s large scale and the wide variety of products offered are easy to navigate. Exhibi-tors are grouped under specialty pavilions according to the products they offer. With such buyer-friendly setup, buyers can easily locate the products they are interested in, while exhibitors can easily meet their targeted buyers.

Theme Pavilions HighlightsHong Kong Premier PavilionAn exclusive showcase of the city’s best

A select group of around 40 Hong Kong avant-garde jewellery brands will feature their latestexquisite collections. Coupled with the best facilities and utmost conditions, the pavilion is theperfect setting to show the extraordinary strength of Hong Kong jewellery.

Fine Design Pavilion / Fine Gem PavilionAn esteemed venue for the world’s finest jewellery

The pavilions showcase a tantalizing spread of the world’s finest jewellery, top-quality loosediamonds, gemstones and pearls, invaluable antique and estate jewellery and other exclusiveone-offs. About 80 renowned jewellers will showcase their masterpieces in an elegant settingthat traders and connoisseurs are sure to enjoy.

6JG13 advertorial 205x265mm_EN.indd 1 16/11/2012 4:54 PM

6JG 9JG13_205x265_eng.indd 1 22/10/2012 9:12 AM

The very large September edition of the Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair continues to expand, attracting not only fine Asian exhibitors, but a roster of global brands as well. This year, it passed a milestone, its 30th anniversary, with two new initiatives.


MILESTONE FOR HONG KONG JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR

Now in its 30th year, the September edition of the Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair continues to be one of the world’s favoured destinations for brands and manufacturers around the world. Spread over two venues—the HK Convention Centre (HKCEC) in Wanchai for finished jewellery and the Asia World Expo (AWE) near the airport for loose stones, pearls, packaging, and equipment—this year’s edition attracted some 3,500 exhibitors from 46 countries and regions. Visitor attendance was up from last year with around 51,500 trade professionals coming from 155 countries and regions. According to fair officials, the September fair had the largest exhibitor and visitor turnout in the event’s history. Also, more than 50 percent of buyers were from overseas, an indication of the fair’s global reach. Not surprising, the top five visiting countries, excluding Hong Kong, were China, India, Taiwan, Thailand and the USA.

New InitiativesThis year, the fair initiated two new events. “The jewellery exhibition industry is very competitive,” said Celine Lau, Director of Jewellery Fairs for UBM Asia. “To lead the industry, continual improvement and

innovation are indispensable, which is why, for our 30th anniversary, we are celebrating our two new industry initiatives, the IU Awards that we piloted with ICA, and the JNA Awards.” Organized by Jewellery News Asia, the first JNA Awards will be an industry-wide event that honours and recognizes excellence and achievement in the jewellery trade. Letitia Chow, founder of JNA and Director of Business Development, Jewellery Group, UBM Asia, chaired the JNA Awards judging panel and the gala awards ceremony. “The success of this first JNA Awards ceremony was tremendous. We have achieved our main goal to provide the industry with a benchmark for excellence and achievement and are looking forward to the same success at the JNA Awards 2013,” stated Chow.Two other initiatives also marked the expansion ambitions of UBM Asia, which already organizes jewellery fairs in Hong Kong, China, India, and Japan. Riding the wave of steady growth in Asia’s economy, the event organizer will launch its first edition of the “Singapore Jewellery & Gem Fair” to be held October 12 to 15, 2013. “Asia is growing at an unprecedented pace and this brings about abundant opportunities for the

jewellery trade,” explained Wolfram Diener, Senior Vice President, UBM Asia. “Nestled in the heart of Asia, Singapore presents tremendous business opportunities for jewellers to position their products to capture consumer demand in Southeast Asia.” In a second initiative, UBM Asia is joining forces with UBM Live, its sister company in Europe, to expand into that region with the launch of its new “Jewellery & Gem Fair – Europe,” or “JGF Europe,” in April 2014, held in Freiburg, Germany. Going nearly head to head with BaselWorld, this announcement raised more than a few eyebrows. Again, according to Diener, UBM Asia has carefully studied the location, date, and the opinions of potential exhibitors and

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honourees at the inaugural Jna awards ceremony, with letitia chow, sixth from left.

nature-inspired pieces were very popular from many brands such as this 18k gold, diamond, and rock crystal ring by forever Jewels (singapore).

austrian brand swarovski gems unveiled “natural reflection,” a new generation of marcasite, the mineral iron pyrite, that blurs the boundaries between gemstone and metal. shown above is a necklace designed by pranda Jewelry for swarovski natural reflection (thailand).

elegant diamond, gold, and gemstone ring evoking the butterfly trend by e&V Jewellery (hong kong).

south sea golden pearls were bestsellers at the

initiative of the Year” was Jewelmer, which created thisgraceful “Vitta” ring in 18k gold, diamonds, and golden pearls

(philippines).

hong kong fair. the winner of the Jna awards in the category of “sustainability

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the nature theme is carried through in this sapphire, diamond and 18k gold necklace by mVee (hong kong).

buyers, coming to the conclusion that JGF Europe can provide a viable venue for quality exhibitors showcasing a wide array of jewellery products, serving all of Europe. “Freiburg is conveniently accessible by car or by public transportation from major jewellery trading hubs such as Antwerp, Basel, Geneva, Paris, Pforzheim, and Vicenza. Only 30 minutes away from Basel, buyers can easily visit the two European fairs in one trip,” he explained. While traffic was good at AWE, a number of diamond companies indicated that demand was not as strong as they had hoped, with price a dampening factor, despite the overall drop over the last few months. Generally, however, they indicated sales were moderate to good. The same overall opinion was found in the gems section. Some reported that most sales were to Chinese buyers, with favourite stones being red gems, mainly rubies and high-end rubellites, and medium-quality green tourmalines. Pearl dealers indicated that although demand from the USA and Europe was soft, it was firmer from Asian markets, with the bulk of sales coming from Chinese buyers, followed by those from Hong Kong. South Sea golden pearls were among the favoured purchases. At the opening of the HKCEC venue, sentiments were similar, with sales ranging from slow to moderate to good. Traffic was high on the first two days, then calmer later on, although some booths continued to be busy, especially in Hall 1 and the Hong Kong Premier Pavilion. Many exhibitors

were hoping Asian buyers would make up for the declining demand from Europe and the USA, but others were resigned to the fact that the precarious global economic scenario is also affecting the Asian demand for fine jewellery. “The Hong Kong jewellery manufacturers and gemstone suppliers, as well as the industry as a whole, have been affected by the monetary and economic situation in the European Union and the United States,

which has also impacted the markets in Asia and China,” said Kent Wong, Assistant Chairman of the Hong Kong Jewellers’ and Goldsmith Association. “Fine jewellery seems to be suffering from the slowing growth, but I stress that it is only the growth rate that has slowed. Our total growth rate was 60 percent last year, but at the first half of this year, we are only seeing about 10-plus percent growth.” He added that although sales of high-end products have been affected, the middle and lower-end goods are still being purchased.This sentiment was echoed by Ricky Lam, Chairman of the Hong Kong Jewellery Manufacturers’ Association, who forecast that the lower-to-middle markets in Asia, especially China, will continue to make up for the slowdown in other areas. Lam added that many people consider jewellery to be an investment given the uncertainty in the overall economic environment. “Jewellery, diamonds, and gold are thought of as a way to preserve value, thus, ever since the financial crisis, Hong Kong’s export of jewellery items has been rising. Last year, exports increased 67 percent.”Overall, exhibitors expressed satisfaction with the business and contacts they made over the five-day event. As for products, just about everything was available, and the photos on these pages offer a glimpse into the many beautiful designs from Asian companies present at the fair. The dates for the 2013 edition are early next year, from September 11 to 17. (www.ubmasia.com)

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Jade is a perennial favourite among asian consumers. seen here is a jade and diamond ring set in 18k gold by Jun-ming tseng (taiwan).

an important trend at the fair was the use of black and white diamonds set in rhodium-plated gold as seen in this pair of earrings by Vida (hong kong).

award-winning diamond and gold “angel gift” ring by peter lam (hong kong).

palladium has attracted the attention of jeweller aaron shum who has created pieces made in the white metal embellished with swarovski natural gemstones as shown by this pendant (hong kong).

m a r k e t p l a c e – h o n g k o n g s e p t e m b e r f a i rsapphires and diamonds set in 18k

gold in a floral motif, a specialty of sabina lee, designer for the inventive brand, green g (hong kong).

bold long turquoise and silver necklace by Yang lay (singapore).

INTERGEM 2012 FEATURES THE NEW AND UNUSUAL

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In Germany, the town of Idar-Oberstein was the home to the 28th Intergem, which opened on October 5 to more than 1,000 visitors eager to find the best of the best in terms of coloured gemstones, diamonds and finished jewelry. By the close on October 8, the fair had been visited by 3,500 visitors from 50 countries around the world.

By Karen Nuckols

The Idar-Oberstein region of Germany is renowned for its generations of high-quality cutters, carvers and jewellery designers, and this year’s 165 exhibitors did not disappoint. While 70 percent of the exhibitors were from the region, 25 percent joined from other areas in Germany, and 5 percent came from other countries. There was something for everyone to purchase in a variety of price ranges, from the finest gemstones and diamonds to carvings, equipment, and supplies. Intergem is always a place where “new finds” can be seen. One such piece was a carving of unidentified green quartz at the booth of Lorenz Edelstein Design, of Idar-Oberstein. Dieter Lorenz, the carver, said the rough came from Brazil and that he would be taking it to the gemmological society for analysis and identification. Jewellery designers from around the world came to buy Lorenz’s unique carvings to create one-of-a-kind rings, earrings, and pendants.Serious collectors also often head

directly to the Emil Becker stand to see what spectacular piece will be on display. The firm, under the direction of Manfred Wild of Kirschweiler in Germany, always introduces a new creation for his own pleasure as well as that of his collectors. Last year, he presented the beautiful Ferris wheel, but this year, it was a magnificent rock crystal alto recorder flute, which gives “rock music” a new meaning. The recorder was fully playable as heard in Ulricke Trappe-Krieger’s lovely rendition of “Ode to Joy.” This is not Becker’s first successful instrument. In previous years, he created a fully operative clarinet, also from rock crystal, and a set of panpipes.Another equally unusual piece was found at the booth of Sonja Kreis from Dusseldorf. Created by Alexander Kreis, “Chanting of the Stars” is both a piece of sculpture and a pendant. Made of rutilated quartz, the pendant represents a meeting with a comet or a “Star of Bethlehem,” with planet

Faceted samples of african tourmaline from Wild & petsch (photo: Wild & petsch).

a remarkable alto recorder flute carved in rock crystal by the firm emil becker (photo: dierick bevoort of diebe media).

carved agate pendant by daniela becker from creativum (photo: intergem).

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m a r k e t p l a c e – i d a r - o b e r s t e i n

Earth depicted in smoky quartz. Put the pieces together and it is indeed a striking piece of sculpture. Remove the “comet,” and turn it upside down, and it becomes a stunning pendant. Kreis designed and fabricated special tools in order to create the piece, which took nearly a year of work.Bernd Munsteiner announced the release of a new book, “Munsteiner: The Young Generation, Tom + Jutta Munsteiner,” and showed examples of the work of his talented son and daughter-in-law during a well attended slide presentation.Not only are trade fairs the place to find beautiful goods, but they are a good place to take the pulse of the industry. At Intergem, we heard from Thomas Lind of Hermann Lind II that it has been “an interesting year” for the garnet business, with sales doing well in recent months. He attributed his success to years of excellent customer service and a wide variety of quality stones. Lind added that buyers are learning that garnets come in more colours than just red, which has helped create strong sales for all members of the garnet family.Achim Grimm from Hermann Grimm KG reported that pink tourmaline was popular at the Hong Kong show this year, and that matched pairs were big with U.S. buyers. He reported that sales at Intergem on Sunday were excellent, but that overall, sales were not quite as high as last year. He felt that this

was due to the fact that last year was exceptionally good.Alexander Wild of Wild & Petsch also reported a satisfactory Hong Kong show in September, and said Basel was exceptionally good last March. At this Intergem, he added that Sunday sales made for a fairly good show.Alex Taggart of Bella Luce, located in Idar-Oberstein, explained that his company sells finished diamond jewellery to retail stores. Due to the cost of gold, he said that it is hard to get appointments. It seems that jewellers are selling their current stock first, then ordering new. Taggart also commented that when jewellers remove gold jewellery from the display windows, it gives the consumer the

impression that gold is no longer the trend, thus contributing to the difficulty in selling it.Thomas Furstenberg Franzmann of Herbert Furstenberg e.K. described how they are making changes to reflect market needs. As an example, they produce a line of ceramic rings which are selling well and can take the place of gold. He also discussed the availability of gemstones, indicating that, while dealers in Idar-Oberstein can supply the needs of buyers for the next five years, they can only buy rough when it is offered. The Chinese have become big players in this market and will pay more than others. They also take everything the mine has, rather than specifying only the better grades, obviously making them preferred customers. Show officials reported that the most sought-after gemstone colours were the autumn tones—red, cognac, shades of browns and berries, as well as combinations with black.Overall, exhibitors agreed that Intergem provided the ideal setting for developing business contacts. The next edition will be held from October 3 to 6, 2013.

amethyst and diamond pendant on a pearl necklace by cc pearls (photo: intergem).

“singing of the stars” sculpture by alexander kreis, of sonja kreis (photo: dierick bevoort of diebe media).

tom munsteiner holds a new book showcasing the work of himself and his wife Jutta. to the right is one of munsteiner’s stone sculptures (photo: dierick bevoort of diebe media).

When the comet is removed from the “singing of the stars” sculpture, it makes a very wearable pendant.

a new type of green quartz, found in brazil, and carved by dieter lorenz (photo: dierick bevoort of diebe media).

A.Link 52Aaron Basha 35Aaron Shum 49, 82AG Color 49, 83Agni Jewels 67AGTA 69Al Coro 45Alberian & Aulde 32, 45Alessio Boschi 18, 25, 36, 48Alexander Kreis 86Alice K 44Amberif 88Amrapali 33, 55, 67Antonini 31, 49Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair 64, 65Anzie 20Armas 36Arunashi 54Autore 53Azuelos Jewellery 20, 44Baccarat 18Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Show 73Bapalal Keshavlal 14, 15, 17, 52Barbara D’Oro 26BaselWorld 58, 59Bavna 34Beauty Gems 75Belle Etoile 17Bellon 35Bibigi 21, 52Bizzotto 31BK Jewellery 9Blue White Group 24, 27, 29Bonato 72Bruner 17BuccellatiBuccellati 20, 49Cappuchino Collection 67Carelle 17, 50Carla Amorim 19, 28Carrera y Carrera 28Casato Roma 17, 45, 48CC Pearls 86Chimento 70Choon Jewelry 75Cleison Roche 44Clementina Duarte 49Commelin 25Coomi 33, 34Cora 46Costis 47Cris Porto 31Crivelli 45, 51, 70Dada Arrigoni 35, 55Damiani 28, 54Dana David 31Daniel Espinosa 30, 55Daniela Becker/Creativum 84David Lin 50DeGrisogono 51Demarco 55Dietrich 21, 46, 48DiGo 70Dipti-Amisha 67E&V Jewellery 80Eclat Jewels 51Effy Jewelry 25Elke Berr 53Emil Becker 84Erica Courtney 17, 47, 51EV Jewelry Design 33Fondation Haute Horlogerie 81Fope 36, 72Forever Jewels 18, 54, 80Franco Pianegonda 48Garaude 19Garavelli 21, 72Gavello 45Gay Freres 48Gem Priority 66Gem Production 76Gemfields 6, 7, 17, 67

Gems Cube 87Gems Sculpture 75Georland 25Gintare 49Gitanjali 67Goldesign 44, 47Goldlip 74Gordon Aatlo Designs 17, 49Goshwara 32Green G 49, 82Gumuchian 18Gurhan 48H. Stern 21Hellmuth 30, 53Hera 28Hera’Z 85IGI/K.P. Sanghvi 67Inhorgenta 63Isabelle Langlois 18, 37, 45, 49, 55Isharya 54Italian Design 36, 48J Jewels Milano 24, 29, 48, 55Jack Kelege 18, 49Jafarov 46Jane Bohan 50Jane Taylor 20, 48Jean Marc Garel 52Jenny Perl 18Jenny Reeves 34Jewelmer 35, 56, 57, 80Jewels Emporium 67Joanna Angelett 25, 41Jochen Pohl C.I, C.II, 3, 10, 11 18, 47Jolfer 19Jolie B. Ray 19Jorg Heinz 32Joyeros EME de Mexico 46Jun-Ming Tseng 82Kabana 51, 52Katerina Maxine 32Katherine Jetter 17, 47Kavant 19, 51Kays Jewels 68KGK Jewellery 68La Reina 21, 32, Laksh Pahuja 68Le Téo & Blet 35Le Vian 18, 55Leaderline 24, 27Lika Behar 33Lili Diamonds 46Lisa Nik 28Luca Carati 28, 53Lydia Courteille 30Madstone 30Maevona 33Magerit 20Manya Rouman 53Marco Marchese 55 Marco Bicego 46Margery Hirschey 34Maria Antonelle 51Mark Schneider 26, 47Mary Esses 21Masriera 33, 55Mattia Cielo 36, 71Mattioli 35Mauro Felter 34Meissen Joaillerie 26Messika 54Metalsmiths Sterling 33Michael Weggenmann 53Miiori 31Minawala 45Misaki 54Misis 19, 31, 54Moments 68Mousson Atelier 19, 48Munsteiner 86Muzo Intl 17, 23, 42, 43, 51MVee 12, 13, 26, 28, 30, 32, 51, 53, 54, 82My Vice 48Nanis 20, 28, 35

Nicoletta Cei 34Nite 50Nobuko Ishikawa 68Norman Silverman 18Octium 31Old World Chain 33Oly Lynggaard 52Opera Omnia 51, 71Oscar Heyman 18Palmiero 20, 72Pamela Froman 44, 47Pamela Huizenga 34, 44Paolo Piovan 25, 55Paragon Worldwide 76Paula Crevoshay 19, 44, 50Pauly 61 Pearce Design 21, 34Penny Preville 51Peter Lam 82Piaget 26Picchiotti 46Pierre-Yves 33Pippo Perez 30, 35 Ponte Vecchio 26, 49, 71Priority Gems 44Quadamas 44, 61Raboud 90, C.IIIRamon 5, 21Re’volve Jewelry 36Reena Ahluwalia 31Reglisse 36Rina Limor 26, 32Robert Wan 52Roberto Coin 20, 45, 72Rodney Rayner 45Roman Herzo 21Rosato 70Saboo Jewels 68Sandy Leong 19 Santagostino 71Sethi Couture 46Seven Stars Industries 75Shamila 51Sharart Design 20, 31, 36Sicis Jewels 21, 53Singapore Int’l Jewellery Show 77Sophia by Design 53Spark Creations 19, 47Staurino 49Stefan Hafner 48Steven Webster 30Suna Bros 21Sunghee Kim 20, 44Sutra 52, 54Suzanne Kalan 47Suzy Landa 50Swarovski Elements 76Swarovski Gems 55, 80Syna 32TC Mining Int’l 76 Temple St Clair 25The Fifth Season 22, 71, C.IVTheo Fennel 17Thistle & Bee 20 Todd Reed 34Tresor 20, 44, 50Uneek 46Utopia 54Vahan 28Van Cleef & Arpels 32VBP Int’l 75Vendorafa 71Vianna Brasil 16, 25, 31, 45, 46Vicente Agor 28Victor Mayer 48Victor Veylan 33, 34Vida 26, 30, 45, 82Wild & Petsch 61, 84Yael Designs 44Yael Sonia 47Yang Lay 82Yvel 51Ziio 20, 50Zorab Atelier 25Zydo 19

e d i t o r i a l & a d v e r t i s e r s i n d e x

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CIJ Winter Trends Guide 2013

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