44
CIRCULAR ECONOMY – Closing the Loop for apparel & footwear 14.10.2017 Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 1 c
CIRCULAR ECONOMY –
Closing the Loop forapparel & footwear
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 1
c
Definition – What is Circular Economy??
The current so called linear economy (throwaway economy) is
based on depleting finite reserves to create products that end
up in landfills or in incinerators.
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 2
Definition – What is Circular Economy??
The circular economy is a generic term for an industrial economy that is producing no waste and pollution and in which material flows are of two types: designed to reenter the biosphere safely or to circulate at high quality in the production system. An important factor is the recycling of goods as secondary raw materials as well as the multiple use.
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 3
Waste-Hierarchy
14.10.2017 4
Pri
ori
ty
Qu
antity
Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune
Reasons to go circular:
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 5
• Growing population (9,7 billion until 2050)
• Increasing demand for textile fibers (emerging markets , dublicating until
2030)
• shortage of resources (finite resources)
• Increasing environmental pollution, landfill (especially textile waste)
• Ecological overshoot (Earth overshoot day, during the 1970s we passed
the point at which the annual Ecological Footprint matched the Earth’s
annual biocapacity)
Reasons to go circular:
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 6
Overall apparel consumption will rise by 63%, from 62 million tons today
to 102 million tons in 2030 – an equivalent of more than 500 billion t-shirts
85% our clothes end upon landfills!!
Reasons to go circular:
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 7
The Planetary Boundaries 2015 & 2013
What can we do??
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 8
What is needed/ can be done from the production side?
Consumers become more demanding, more discerning and less predictable
in their purchasing behavior
The fashion system the way it is oldfashioned and starts reshaping. Brands
start looking inward, implementing changes to the coreoperations =
shortening the length of the fashion cycle to integrating sustainable
innovation into the core product, design and manufacturing process
Global Fashion Agenda: Copenhagen Fashion Summit Commitment
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 9
64 fashion companies and corporations have signed the commitment. Together, they represent 143 brands and a combined value of 7.5% of the global fashion market.
143 brands signed!
Action Points – CPH Fashion Summit Commitment
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 10
ACTION POINT 1: IMPLEMENTING DESIGN STRATEGY FOR CYCLABILITYBrand or retailer has a design strategy for cyclability by 2020, enabling re-use, upcycling and recycling. This includes one or more of the following:
• Products are designed to promote and prioritise materials that are compatible with existing material recycling streams
• Products are designed so that material types can be separated for recycling• Products are designed for functional durability and ease of
ACTION POINT 2: INCREASING VOLUME OF USED GARMENTS COLLECTEDBrand or retailer has programme in place for the collection and processing of used garments by 2020.
• An in-store/e-tail garment collection scheme together with a recognised, credible and licensed charity and/or re-use/ recycling company
Action Points – CPH Fashion Summit Commitment
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 11
ACTION POINT 3: INCREASING RESALE OF USED GARMENTSBrand or retailer sells or exchanges used garments in second-hand marketplaces by 2020.
• Resale in own retail spaces• Collaboration with online second-hand market places• Collaboration with charities or textile recyclers
ACTION POINT 4: INCREASING USE OF RECYCLED TEXTILE FIBRESBrand or retailer uses recycled textile fibres in collection range by 2020.
• Support development of technologies that enable material recycling• Include textile-to-textile recycled fibres in collection range
The rise of the circular economy
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 12
BSI: FIRST CIRCULAR ECONOMY STANDARD
Framework for implementing the principles of the circular economy in
organizations – Guide
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 13
The circular economy is about creating & optimizing value by reconsidering what might be seen as waste or system losses & identifying opportunities to realize new potential from them.
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 14
The 6 circularfashionloops
c
The current textile supply chain
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 15
Fiber DesignTextile Mill yarn/fabric CMT
Point of Sale
ConsumerEnd of life
Loop 1: The First User-Loop
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 16
Fiber DesignTextile Mill yarn/fabric CMT
Point of Sale, Repairing Consumer
End of life
REDUCE!!!
ReIMAGINE!!!
Repairing
(1)
Loop 1: The First User-Loop
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 17
Knowledge Sharing -> Repair instructions; Washing- and care instructions
Loop 1: The First User-Loop
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 18
Knowledge Sharing -> Repair Service
Loop 1: The First User-Loop
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 19
Knowledge Sharing -> Repair Service
Loop 1: The First User-Loop
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 20
Modifications
Loop 2: The Reuse-Loop
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 21
Fiber DesignTextile Mill yarn/fabric CMT
Store new2H,Leasing
ConsumerEnd of life
REDUCE!!!
ReIMAGINE!!!
(2)Sorting,
repairing
Loop 2: The Reuse-Loop
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 22
Selling Second-Hand -> Take-back system
Loop 2: The Reuse-Loop
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 23
Implementing Leasing - & Renting systems
Loop 2: The Reuse-Loop
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 24
Implementing Leasing - & Renting systems
Loop 3: The ReDesign-Loop
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 25
Fiber DesignTextile Mill yarn/fabric CMT
Store new2H,Leasing
ConsumerEnd of life
REDUCE!!!
ReIMAGINE!!!
(3)Sorting,
repairing
Loop 3: The ReDesign-Loop
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 26
Pre-Consumer Waste -> Upcycling
Loop 3: The ReDesign-Loop
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 27
Pre-Consumer Waste -> Upcycling
Loop 3: The ReDesign-Loop
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 28
Post-Consumer Waste -> Upcycling
Loop 4: The ReCycling-Loop
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 29
Fiber DesignTextile Mill yarn/fabric CMT
Store new2H,Leasing
ConsumerEnd of life
REDUCE!!!
ReIMAGINE!!!
ThirdPartyDonation
Recycling Mill (4)
Sorting,
repairing
Loop 4: The ReCycling-Loop
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 30
Post-Consumer Waste
Loop 4: The ReCycling-Loop
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 31
Post-Consumer Waste -> Cradle-to-Cradle
Loop 5: The Production-Recycling-Loop
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 32
Fiber DesignTextile Mill yarn/fabric CMT
Store new2H,Leasing
ConsumerEnd of life
REDUCE!!!
ReIMAGINE!!!
ThirdPartyDonations
Recycling Mill
(5)
Sorting,
repairing
Loop 5: The Production-Recycling-Loop
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 33
Pre-Consumer Waste -> Collectiong & Sorting of clippings for fiber recycling
Loop 6: The Biodegradable-Loop
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 34
Fiber DesignTextile Mill yarn/fabric CMT
Store new2H,Leasing
ConsumerEnd of life
REDUCE!!!
ReIMAGINE!!!
(6)
Loop 6: The Biodegradable-Loop
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 35
Cradle-to-Cradle
Loop 6: The Biodegradable-Loop
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 36
Cradle-to-Cradle
Loop 6: The biodegradable-Loop
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 37
Cradle-to-Cradle
The current textile supply chain
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 38
Fiber DesignTextile Mill yarn/fabric CMT
Point of Sale
ConsumerEnd of life
The 6 Loops: The holistic circular fashion concept
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 39
Fiber DesignTextile Mill yarn/fabric CMT
Store new2H,Leasing
ConsumerEnd of life
REDUCE!!!
ReIMAGINE!!!
ThirdPartyDonation
Recycling Mill
(6)
(3)
(1)
(2)(5)
(4)
Sorting,
repairing
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 40
What can we do??
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 41
What is needed/ can be done from the production side?
Brands need to find partners/ productions/ suppliers with whom they can achieve these
aims!!!
Offering high quality/ longlasting products
Setting up a network/ cooperation with fabric & accessoires suppliers
Being able to offer appropriate fabrics ( -> research fabrics already available in the market:
like s.Cafe, Reworx & Infinito, Econyl, Bionic yarn, Seaqual, Recovertex, YKK Natulon,
Filatures du Parc, Orta, Hempfortex…etc)
New skills, understanding and knowledge of sustainability und circular economy
Potential certificats (LEED…etc)
Initiating collecting systems for clippings/ textile waste
Specializing in redesign and upcycling (e.g. training one line),
Zero Waste pattern making
ACT RATHER THAN REACT!!!
Design process/ product development
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 42
Design for rebirth
Is it a longlive product?
Is it a high quality product?
Is this product timeless or trend-driven?
Is this product multifunctional or transformable?
Is it made from monomaterials only?
Is it recyclable? Is it possible to separtat all components?
Is the fabric from recycled fibers?
Is the product developed for the tech- or bio-cycle?
Is it a zero waste or waste optimized pattern?
Benefits
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 43
Resource efficiency <-> Shortage of resources/ natural capital
Economic growth -> the availability of materials & energy can limit opportunities
(circular economy is decoupling here)
Cost savings -> giving access to cheaper material inputs & reducing waste
management costs & environmental costs (e.g. reduced greenhouse gas emissions)
New revenue streams -> by supplying additional products
Improved customer relationship
Remain competitive
Meeting new and emerging market needs and expectations – now and into the
future!!!!
14.10.2017Circular Economy - Marina Chahboune 44
Terimakasih!!
c
