Coastal Processes

Oscillatory and Translatory Motion

Translatory motion re-suspends sediment

Wave RefractionStill a small ‘longshore component

swashbackwash

Kids at the beach

Fig. 14.09

Barrier Islands

• These barrier islands face the open ocean so they receive the full force of major storms that strike the coast.

• Storm waves that previously rushed harmlessly through gaps between the dunes now encounter buildings and roadways.

Barrier Islands

• These barrier islands face the open ocean so they receive the full force of major storms that strike the coast.

• Storm waves that previously rushed harmlessly through gaps between the dunes now encounter buildings and roadways.

Jetties

• Jetties are usually built in pairs and extend into the ocean at the entrances to rivers and harbors. By confining the flow of water, the jetties prevent deposition in the harbor channel.

Jetty: Allenhurst, NJ

Allenhurst to Asbury Park

Groins

Inlet Created by Hurricane Waves (North Carolina)

Source: Associated Press/Raleigh News & Observer, Chris Seward

Migration of Barrier Islands

Migration of Barrier Islands (cont’d)

Migration of Barrier Islands (cont’d)

North Carolina's Outer Banks

Humans remove any new sand piled up on their property. Normal bar migrations thwarted and barrier narrows.

EstuariesAn estuary is a semi-enclosed coastal body of water with one or more rivers or streams flowing into it and with a free connection to the open sea

SaltmarshesA salt marsh is a type of marsh that is a transitional zone between land and salty or brackish water (e.g., sloughs, bays, estuaries)