Como Destilar Paso a Paso

8/12/2019 Como Destilar Paso a Paso

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ESSENTIAL OIL DISTILLER

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONSDirections

IMPORTANT

If you are working around a sink, tile or other hard surface, please LINE ITWITH A TOWEL or FOAM RUBBER DRAWER LINER available from thegrocery store.

You don't want to be amazed at how easy it is to break glassware.

LOADING THE BIOMASS FLASK

First insert the little stainless steel screen tube that we provide into the bottomof the flask, so the plant material doesn't clog the hole or fall through. Just foldit a little at the top and stick it through the bottom of the flask until it is flushwith the bottom of the flasks' joint.

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Now load your plant material into the bioflask. For 2 and 5 liter bioflasks it isbest to cut the plant material into 1 inch (max) chunks. This makes it easier toboth load and unload through the mouth of the flask. It's okay to use any typeof plant matter in the biomass flask with the exception of powder or resinouschunks. Powder will clump up and cause the bottom opening to plug, andsteam won't be able to get to most of it- or it may just fall into the boiling flask.Resins must be hydrodistilled and simply won't work in this setup.

It is fine to stuff the bioflask full of plant material, although it will also work fineif it is partially empty (you just won't get as much oil). Use a plastic or woodendowel about 1/2" in diameter to help to pack it (the dowel is also useful forcleaning out the damp plants after distilling). DONT use metal or you'll break

the flask!

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Place support rod into the clamp built into the rear of the hotplate by squeezingthe top and bottom of the clamp together and inserting the rod thru the holes.

Now Assemble the two clamps to the support rod and placing them both highup on the rod. Leave the clamp screws snug but not tight.Here's a photo of how the clamps assemble:

NOTE ABOUT THE HOTPLATES:The hotplates do not turn all the way off when the knob is turned down all theway. This is normal.When done, unplug the hotplate to turn it completely off! The knob will onlyturn the hotplate down as far as "low" but not off.If you do not unplug the hotplate and leave the boiling flask on it, it will slowly

run out of water and break the flask when the water runs out.

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Putting the Glassware together

Ground glass joints will freeze together if not properly lubricated!

Three small packets of silicone joint grease compound have been provided.Before assembling any of the ground glass joints, please put a tiny dab ofgrease on the male end and wipe it into a line using a toothpick or your finger.

Assemble the joint, twist it gently into its socket, rotating at least one rotation tospread the grease around. If you have the right amount, the joint connectionwill rotate smoothly and become slightly "clear" to the eye. Too much grease-it will spin with very little friction and you'll have grease mushing out; too littleand the joint will not become "clear" as you press on it and rotate it, and it willfeel sticky. It actually takes very little grease to do the job. The amount in the

tube may seem small, but it should last at least a month or two with daily useof the still. .

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Boiling water and glass clamps

Start by filling the boiling flask about 1/2 full with water (a little more is okay but

no more than 2/3 maximum). Tap water is okay, but you may prefer to usedistilled or purified water so you don't get chlorine vapors steaming throughyour biomass. Grease the glass stopper included and plug the side port with

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it.Grease the biomass flask joints and place the biomass flask (pre-loaded withplant material) on top of the boiling flask, center the flasks on the burner, andsecure the flasks using the upper metal clamp, attached to the top neck of theboiling flask.NOW lightly grease both ends of the still head and attach it to the top of the

biomass flask. Clip the condenser to the still head using the provided redplastic "Keck" clamp.

Next, FILL the receiver (preload it) with distilled water- close the stopcock andpour in enough water to make it come out the side drain tube.

IF YOU DO NOT PRELOAD THE RECEIVER WITH DISTILLED WATER...This is what will happen...

As the distillation process begins and the receiver fills up with condensedwater, the water's level will eventually rise above the bottom level of the outletpipe. You will likely have a small quantity of essential oil floating on the surfacein the receiver by then, and you'll notice a small "plug" of it get caught in thereceiver's outlet pipe. This oil will be lost into the hydrosol collection flask and

will not be easy to recover. If you preload the receiver with water beforestarting the distillation, this will not happen.

Using the green Keck clamp, clip the preloaded receiver to the condenser. Youwill now use the second metal clamp provided to hold the receiver in place tothe stand/support rod. The metal heat-shield plate mounted to the hoptlateshould be between the heater and the receiver, so that heat radiating from theheater does not have a "line of sight" path to the receiver. This keeps yourdistilled oil cool.Place a drinking glass or bottle (500mL or so in capacity) under the receiver'sside drip tip to catch the first hydrosol that comes off during distillation. It's bestto position it so the drops hit the rim of the container, so they don't splash asthey drip into the water... OR if you are not interested in keeping the hydrosol,you can place the whole still on the edge of your sink so the hydrosol simply

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drains away.

WATER FOR THE CONDENSER

The easiest way to cool your condenser is to use tap water coming in to andthrough the condenser, then going out of the condenser and down the drain orinto your garden. Water goes IN THE BOTTOM and OUT THE TOP of thecondenser. The water only needs to be a trickle, but IT MUST ALWAYS BEMOVING. Once the distillation gets underway, you will be able to tell if yourflow is enough by feeling the temperature of the water coming out...if it is coldto luke warm, your flow is enough. If it's warm or hot, turn up the flow.

Chilled water is also an option- recirculating it in a bucket full of ice water witha submersible pump (optional- available from our website) conserves waterover the tap/drain method BUT it requires LOTS OF ICE. If you use a pump,use a 5 gallon bucket of ice water and drop the pump in it to circulate chilledwater through the condenser and back to the bucket. When using this methodof cooling, plan on using at least three "grocery store" sized bags of ice, or oneblock of ice per distillation. Also the bucket of ice water must be at the sametable height as the distiller, or the pump might not be able to provide enoughflow.

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Be sure to plug the hoses onto the condensers' glass hose-bibs snugly... ahose popping off in the middle of a distillation can make a real mess! The hosemay seem difficult to get on to the condenser fittings- if so, simply warm theend of the hose with hot water or over a lighter or candle flame (don't burn it!)and it will then stretch easily and slip on. (You may have to cut it off with arazor blade later, once it's on, the hose material likes to stay there!).We've provided a rubber faucet adapter (shown in the drawing above) thatmay make it easier to hook the hose to most sink or garden faucets. You mayhave to cut the inlet hole a little bigger with a sharp knife or small scissors toget it to slip over larger faucets.

BASICALLY THAT'S IT

Turn on the condenser water, make sure the stopcock on the receiver isclosed and it's filled with distilled water, turn the hotplate on FULL HIGH andaway you go!

THE DISTILLATION PROCESS

As the water heats up and starts to boil, you'll see steam starting to come outthe top of the biomass flask into the still head. This takes about half an hour.Eventually you'll finally see that first drip make its way down the condenserand into the receiver. Soon you'll see a layer of oil starting to form... there it is!!You will likely find that with many plants, the bulk of the oil comes off in the first10-20 minutes, and the remainder takes 1-3 hours.

As the process continues, you may notice that the boiling water becomescolored- sometimes dramatically, somtimes not depending on the plant. This is

due to water soluble components of the plant dripping down into the boilingflask. Don't worry, there is no oil getting down there- just colored water!

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The oil will ALL end up in the receiver, and the layer there will grow as timegoes on.

You can tell when the distillation is done primarily by noticing that the oli layerhas not grown substatially in the last 30 minutes, or that the hydrosol comingout no longer smells like much.

I like to mark the oil level in the receiver with a sharpie line drawn directly onthe glass, and then come back 30 minutes later to see if the layer has grown. Ifnot, you're done! The plant material will also look dull and spent when thedistillation is finished- but recognizing this part may take a bit of practice.

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When you finally decide it's done you simply turn everything off and let it cooldown, remove the receiver, carefully drain off all the hydrosol left in thereceiver by slowly opening the stopcock, and when the water is gone and theoil layer has just barely hit the bottom, quickly close the stopcock.I personally like to clamp the receiver to the support rod and let it hang therefor an hour or so, to allow any oil stuck on the inside to make it's way downand join the big puddle, especially if the plant is not a big oil producer. Ifthere's lots of oil, that step is unnecessary. Either way, I finally open the

stopcock and carefully drain the oil into a clean bottle.

HINTSIf you wrap your bioflask with a bath towel held in place by clothespins, it willinsulate the flask somewhat and this will help keep it at steam temperature.The result will be less steam condensing in the bioflask and returning to theboiling pot as water, which means more of the steam will get through thebioflask and into the condenser. Your distillation will go faster and you'll createmore hydrosol. It's an option with the 2 liter flask, a good idea with a 5 liter,and mandatory on a 10 liter system.Please be sure to keep the towel away from the hot part of the electric burner-I've caught mine on fire more than once by not paying attention!!!. Also be sureyou have adequate indoor ventilation or do your distilling outside. Oils arepotent!

BURNED SMELL?Note: You may notice that when you're finished, your oil and/or hydrosolsmells like it's a bit "burned". This is a natural occurance with any steamdistillation system and it's not actually "burn" that you're smelling- it's stinkyphenols and/or related compounds from the plant that have been distilledalong with the oil. By simply leaving the oil and hydrosol bottles uncapped and

open to air for a time ranging from a day to a week depending on the oil, thisstinky note will disappear. Smell the oil daily and when one day it smells"yummy", it's time to cap it up for use or storage.Brown glass bottles are best to use for storage because they keep light out,

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and refrigeration at this point will make your oils last longer.

CLEANING

I usually just swirl a lot of soapy water around in the parts, and use a bristlebrush to clean everything. It's all pyrex, so it can also be put in a dishwasher.It's a good idea to first wipe as much of the joint grease out as you can with apaper towel or tissue. My wife will sometimes rinse the parts first with a swirl ofvodka to dissolve and remove any oils from the flasks and parts prior towashing them with soapy water. Rinse very well to remove all the soapresidues. BE CAREFUL to not clunk the glass against the sink... those plasticliners are nice for safety... most glassware is broken during cleaning! If theflasks bump into a hard object they may develop little tiny "star" cracks. Theseare dangerous- they can be repaired, but if left unattended, they can easily

cause a flask to crack or break apart at the most inconvenient time, like whenit's full of boiling water...BE CAREFUL WITH THE GLASSWARE!!

I've found that using a 3/8" diameter dowel or plastic rod is helpful for quicklypoking plant matter and stems out of the biomass flask. Don't be tempted touse metal or you'll break your flask. Shaking the bioflask over a plastictrashcan also works well to remove the bulk of the plant material.

Guck in the boiling flask that builds up from the mineral deposits of your tapwater can quickly be removed with an overnight soak in vinegar, or if you're ina hurry, a swirl of muriatic acid (pool acid) or dilute hydrochloric acid. I haven't

tried it but a good soak with Lime-away will probably work just as well. BECAREFUL with these chemicals; they are dangerous. If using anything otherthan vinegar, use safety glasses and good rubber golves!! Be sure to rinseeverything very well before your next distillation.

I usually do not remove the water hoses from the condenser- I've found thatfor the most part, simply pouring a little soapy water inside the center tube,plugging the ends with my fingers, and giving it a good shake is enough toclean the inner condenser tube, but the water jacket should never needcleaning. It's a lot easier to just leave the hoses on for storage than riskbreaking things trying to get them off each time you use the system. If you do

have to remove them and they are stubborn, use a sharp knife and slit thehose at its base, and it will come off easily. The only problem with doing this isthat your hoses magically get shorter and shorter....

Many people find it very helpful to make notes after each distillation so theycan repeat great results. Time of year, variety of plant, and stage of the plant'sgrowth cycle can all make a huge difference in yield.

OPTIONAL ACCESSORIESClick Hereto learn about other things you can do with this kit, and other

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