The Indian wine market is accel- erating quicker than you can say “cheers”. Bouncing back from the global financial meltdown and the Mumbai terror attacks — which affected tourism, the hotel indus- try and general spending — it ap- pears that nothing can dampen the spirits of India’s wine pio- neers. More wine is being sold nationally, Indian brands are en- tering the global arena and tour- ists, too, are setting off to visit local vineyards. “Steadily the hotels are back on track and the wine industry is well-poised to get back to its dou- ble-digit growth,” said Sumit Jaiswal, marketing manager for Zampa Wines. “Wine tourism is catching on, but currently there are very few wineries who have the set-up. There are some niche tourism companies who have started a dedicated wine tourism itinerary and are marketing it well. In times to come there will be many more.” Zampa is in Nashik, in the state of Maharashtra, the region with by far the highest concentration of vineyards. It’s only a short trip from Mumbai, which helps the tourism trade. Only a few thou- sand visitors have arrived since Zampa opened to the public last November, but Jaiswal said more are making the journey as news spreads of the wine trade’s growth. With good profits and a surge in interest, it’s only natural that oth- er regions of India are trying to produce wine too. Andhra Pra- desh, in the southeast, is a region to watch because it makes quality table grapes. The same can is true of Karnataka in the southwest, where a few wineries can be found. But the prime region still remains Maharashtra, due to an established market and a near- perfect wine-growing climate. mangoes,” he says. “But it was when I exported table grapes to Europe that the idea struck me: If they are good enough to eat, then maybe they would be good enough for wine.” When asked how the wine scene has evolved in India since he corked his first bottle in 2000, he enthusi- astically replies, “The market is still small. Over a year we sell about what London polishes off on a good weekend, but it is growing. We pre- dict that every three years or so the market will double. The elite class has grown massively. Before, at par- ties and social events, wine used to be in the corner. Now, if a decent wine is served it is drunk more than anything else.” One such example of a good Indi- an wine is the Sula Rasa Shiraz 2007, winner of a silver medal this year at the prestigious Syrah Du Monde competition in France. Samant says of the award-winning red: “It was clear that we had an exceptional lot. We produced 700 cases and it is, to date, the best wine to come out of India.” India is well known for spiritual tourism, beaches and desert es- capes. Could wine-tasting trips be added to the list, I ask? “The resort at the vineyard, Be- yond, is expanding to cope with de- mand,” Samant says. “At the mo- ment there is a three-bedroom villa close to the estate, but in the au- tumn this year our 20-room hotel will open, which will include a small spa offering wine treatments. Sula attracts thousands of visitors throughout the year, some are in- ternational.” With this, I decided it was time to find out for myself. The next morning as the 8:20 Pushpak Express pulls out of Mum- bai’s chaotic Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus railway station. My fellow passengers are en- grossed in newspapers or fast asleep. I, however, am far too excited to doze, and in- stead busy myself with en- visaging luscious vines and the lazy afternoon ahead spent sipping Shiraz. Then, almost with- out warning, the monsoon arrives. NASHIK, INDIA—As well as a good nose for business, Lilo Gurnani is also in possession of a fiendish sense of humour, a vital quality for a man who has invested around $1.325 million of his own money into In- dia’s newfangled wine industry. “I asked a friend how to make mil- lions in the wine industry” he says, pausing for effect, “he told me start with billions and you’ll end up with millions!” I chuckled but his son, Ravi Gur- nani, smartly dressed with designer spectacles, looked as though he’d heard the gag before. The Gurnanis, who own York Winery, are not alone in their quest to bring Indian wine to the world- wide arena. In the bustling, old cot- ton mills of South Mumbai, Rajeev Samant, a fellow wine trailblazer, runs Sula Vineyards. Belonging to wine’s newest new world, he is young, charming, smart and exactly the kind of winemaker who gives wine traditionalists the heebie-jee- bies. It was by chance he ended up in the business when he returned to India after studying engineering at Stanford University in California. “I came back and my father had 20 acres of land for sale. I said to him, rather than sell it, let me try to work with it. I grew teakwood, roses and Uncorking its finest / Winemakers in Mumbai and beyond nurture a small industry whose vintages are gaining acclaim despite only being around for a short time At Sula Vineyards, guests can stay at a villa after enjoying wine tastings on the property owned by Rajeev Samant. WINE continued on T12 CAROLINE EDEN SPECIAL TO THE STAR ON ON2 SECTION T SATURDAY OCTOBER 2, 2010 thestar.com BEAUTY OF BELFAST Architecture, scenery bring life to Northern Ireland T5 WHERE’D ALL THE AMERICANS GO? 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Transcript
The Indian wine market is accel-erating quicker than you can say“cheers”.
Bouncing back from the globalfinancial meltdown and theMumbai terror attacks — whichaffected tourism, the hotel indus-try and general spending — it ap-pears that nothing can dampenthe spirits of India’s wine pio-neers. More wine is being soldnationally, Indian brands are en-tering the global arena and tour-ists, too, are setting off to visitlocal vineyards.
“Steadily the hotels are back ontrack and the wine industry iswell-poised to get back to its dou-ble-digit growth,” said SumitJaiswal, marketing manager forZampa Wines. “Wine tourism iscatching on, but currently thereare very few wineries who havethe set-up. There are some nichetourism companies who havestarted a dedicated wine tourismitinerary and are marketing itwell. In times to come there willbe many more.”
Zampa is in Nashik, in the stateof Maharashtra, the region withby far the highest concentrationof vineyards. It’s only a short tripfrom Mumbai, which helps thetourism trade. Only a few thou-sand visitors have arrived sinceZampa opened to the public lastNovember, but Jaiswal said moreare making the journey as newsspreads of the wine trade’sgrowth.
With good profits and a surge ininterest, it’s only natural that oth-er regions of India are trying toproduce wine too. Andhra Pra-desh, in the southeast, is a regionto watch because it makes qualitytable grapes. The same can is trueof Karnataka in the southwest,where a few wineries can befound. But the prime region stillremains Maharashtra, due to anestablished market and a near-perfect wine-growing climate.
mangoes,” he says. “But it was whenI exported table grapes to Europethat the idea struck me: If they aregood enough to eat, then maybethey would be good enough forwine.”
When asked how the wine scenehas evolved in India since he corkedhis first bottle in 2000, he enthusi-astically replies, “The market is stillsmall. Over a year we sell aboutwhat London polishes off on a goodweekend, but it is growing. We pre-dict that every three years or so themarket will double. The elite classhas grown massively. Before, at par-ties and social events, wine used tobe in the corner. Now, if a decentwine is served it is drunk more thananything else.”
One such example of a good Indi-an wine is the Sula Rasa Shiraz2007, winner of a silver medal thisyear at the prestigious Syrah DuMonde competition in France.
Samant says of the award-winningred: “It was clear that we had anexceptional lot. We produced 700cases and it is, to date, the best wineto come out of India.”
India is well known for spiritualtourism, beaches and desert es-capes. Could wine-tasting trips beadded to the list, I ask?
“The resort at the vineyard, Be-yond, is expanding to cope with de-mand,” Samant says. “At the mo-
ment there is a three-bedroom villaclose to the estate, but in the au-tumn this year our 20-room hotelwill open, which will include a smallspa offering wine treatments. Sulaattracts thousands of visitorsthroughout the year, some are in-ternational.”
With this, I decided it was time tofind out for myself.
The next morning as the 8:20Pushpak Express pulls out of Mum-bai’s chaotic Chhatrapati ShivajiTerminus railway station.
My fellow passengers are en-grossed in newspapers or fastasleep. I, however, am fartoo excited to doze, and in-stead busy myself with en-visaging luscious vinesand the lazy afternoonahead spent sippingShiraz.
Then, almost with-out warning, themonsoon arrives.
NASHIK, INDIA—As well as a good nosefor business, Lilo Gurnani is also inpossession of a fiendish sense ofhumour, a vital quality for a manwho has invested around $1.325million of his own money into In-dia’s newfangled wine industry.
“I asked a friend how to make mil-lions in the wine industry” he says,pausing for effect, “he told me startwith billions and you’ll end up withmillions!”
I chuckled but his son, Ravi Gur-nani, smartly dressed with designerspectacles, looked as though he’dheard the gag before.
The Gurnanis, who own YorkWinery, are not alone in their questto bring Indian wine to the world-wide arena. In the bustling, old cot-ton mills of South Mumbai, RajeevSamant, a fellow wine trailblazer,runs Sula Vineyards. Belonging towine’s newest new world, he isyoung, charming, smart and exactlythe kind of winemaker who giveswine traditionalists the heebie-jee-bies. It was by chance he ended upin the business when he returned toIndia after studying engineering atStanford University in California.
“I came back and my father had 20acres of land for sale. I said to him,rather than sell it, let me try to workwith it. I grew teakwood, roses and
Uncorking its finest
/
Winemakers in Mumbai and beyond nurturea small industry whose vintages are gainingacclaim despite only being around for a short time
At Sula Vineyards, guestscan stay at a villa afterenjoying wine tastings onthe property owned byRajeev Samant.
WINE continued on T12
CAROLINE EDEN SPECIAL TO THE STAR
ON
ON
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N O
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SECTION TSATURDAYOCTOBER 2, 2010thestar.com
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Raindrops the size of milk tops lashthe train windows, a smoggy hazedescends ominously over the slumslining the city limits and I realize Icould be in for more of a wet week-end than an Indian summer.
When I arrive, just over threehours later, the sun breaks throughthe clouds, a feeble attempt to shineon Nashik before yet more rain ar-rives. Dogs dart through the WildWest-style wada houses into court-yards and a pair of scary large ratswobble for shelter under a cart.
“Much rain is coming down, mad-am,” the taxi driver says with a headwobble.
Nashik is not archetypal winecountry — it doesn’t look like it, itdoesn’t smell like it and it certainlydoesn’t sound like it. Mangoes, gua-va, onions and tomatoes share thefields with enormous water buffalo,
which in the summer months lan-guidly swim in the monsoon-swol-len lakes to a soundtrack of frogsong. It is tropical, hot and un-tamed. Yet to wine pioneers such asRajeev Samant and Ravi and LiloGurnani this is the epicentre of theIndian wine revolution. It was herethat they, along with a handful ofothers, saw potential.
Soon enough, however, I sat on averanda with eight bottles of premi-um Indian wine laid out in front ofme. The chief winemaker at SulaVineyards, Ajoy Shaw, is taking methrough the different labels whilesimultaneously enlightening me onIndian viticulture.
“Indians do not own corkscrewsand prefer to drink spirits as wine isexpensive in comparison,” he says.“We are trying to change the waypeople think about wine here,whilst also showing the West thatIndian wine is now perfectly drink-
able. The industry here is still in itsinfancy — we have to educate aswell as sell and produce the wine.”
Quite a challenge in a country witha population of 1.1 billion. But quitethe enormous potential, too.
We begin the tasting with a spar-kling Sula Brut, which was com-pletely quaffable and perhaps ligh-ter than Champagne. Ajoy tells methat the Japanese are fans of thisone and that the market there iskeenly buying up magnums.
Moving on to the SauvignonBlanc, Ajoy helps with the tasting:“Long finish, slightly fruity withhints of bell peppers.” I nod andmake a mental note to order a fullglass of this one later.
We then sample some blush be-fore carrying swiftly on to the deli-cious Sula Cabernet Shiraz. Withplum and vanilla notes and big butsubtle tannins, this was a firm fa-vourite. Lastly, the pièce de résis-
tance — the Rasa Shiraz 2007. Wesip it slowly, savouring the taste,and enjoy notes of mint and smokyspice.
Keen to sample some of the com-petition, I stop to visit the Gurnanisat York Winery, a little way down
the road. I try a few whites beforemoving on to the York Reserve Ca-bernet Sauvignon 2008 — recentlycommended at the London Inter-national Wine Fair. It is a fine wine
Wine tasting takes off
Sula’s wines have the right flavours to pair with succulent Indian cuisine.PHOTO COURTESY OF SULA VINEYARDS
WINE from T1
Continued on next page
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and the Gurnanis admit winningawards certainly helps to placatethe non-believers.
“It’s been a tough journey so far togain recognition, but we’re firmly init for the long run,” Lilo says, beforeadding that he hopes to break evenon their investment by 2013.
As night falls, I head to the TajGateway hotel with its elegant ser-vice, good local wine list and oldcolonial design. It dawns on me thatIndian wine is not such a new phe-nomenon. It has been slowly grow-ing for well over a decade, devel-oping its own style and refusing tosimply copy more established mar-kets. Many grapes have been exper-imented with and now winemakersin cooler parts of India are experi-menting, too, with Pinot Noir and
other varieties. Before leaving India, I stop to rest
at the elegant Oberoi Hotel atMumbai’s Nariman Point. Recentlyreopened following the terror at-tacks of 2008, I am met by a gleam-ing white lobby complemented by acherry red grand piano where thenotes of “Don’t Cry for Me Argenti-na” drift into the whiteness. Sittingclose by is 28-year-old sommelierLindsay Groves, who left her homein Burlington, Ont., to join thegroup as India’s first foreign femalesommelier.
When asked about how diners in-teract with her, Groves says, “Din-ers here in Mumbai are not too surewhat to make of sommeliers justyet. They take a little time to getused to me hovering.”
We walk over to Vetro, the hotel’scontemporary Italian restaurant,
and to the glass-encased wine cellarthat holds no less than 1,200 bottlesof the finest wines.
Groves picks up a 1998 FrenchCheval Blanc and says, “This is ourmost expensive wine, it sells foraround 104,000 rupees. That’saround $2,200 U.S.”
Lindsay, who has seven years ex-perience in the industry and firsttried Indian wine in London, isclearly keyed up about her new role.“We stock Sula and Grover labels atour Indian restaurant Ziya. The na-ture of the cuisine there makes mewant to add more Indian wine la-bels — exotic ingredients need ver-satile wines, fruit-driven styles,” shesays. “It’s the new world wines thatwork best.”
Diners not sure what to make of sommeliers
The York Wines Tasting Room in Nashik has a fine sense of style.CAROLINE EDEN PHOTO FOR THE TORONTO STAR
Continued from previous page
Caroline Eden is a freelance writerbased in London. Her trip was sub-sidized by Jet Air.
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