Comment Inside CONFIDENTIAL I t’s no secret that the niche and high-end fragrance market is attracting more attention from brands and retailers. This is mostly down to the growth in the sector: the category is seeing increases of around 20% a year, according to some sources. However, what is emerging as a new trend is the increased focus brands are putting on their high-end and exclusive collections in terms of retail. In January, LVMH- owned Guerlain set out to reinforce its positioning as a fragrance expert with a new boutique in Paris devoted entirely to scent. With the new store, the brand aims to put its fragrance heritage on show and celebrate the art of perfumery. Also at LVMH, Dior has just opened a pop-up store in Paris devoted to its high-end line, La Collection Privée Christian Dior. It is unclear whether this initiative could be a test for a permanent fragrance store. Niche fragrance players have attached importance to having their own stores for some time—Jo Malone, Annick Goutal, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, to name but a few, all have their own boutiques. In many ways, niche brands have pushed more mainstream players into new areas (they are credited with encouraging major companies to launch their own private-collection lines). The question now is whether these players will also lead the majors to take a different route when it comes to retail. Niche influences The buzz 2 News roundup Netwatch 6 Social media monitor Interview 7 Qatar Duty Free senior vice president Keith Hunter Insight 10 Make-up in Brazil Show review 13 Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna Store visit 15 Dior pop-up store, Paris Oonagh Phillips Editor in Chief ophillips@bwconfidential.com www.bwconfidential.com The inside view on the international beauty industry March 31 - April 13, 2016 #128 News headlines daily on www.bwconfidential.com @BWCbeautynews Meet the BW Confidential team at: l Duty Free Show of the Americas, Orlando, April 3-6 l in-cosmetics, Paris, April 12-14 l Luxe Pack Shanghai, April 13-14 l BeautyEurasia, Istanbul, April 21-23 l TFWA Asia Pacific, Singapore, May 8-12 l Luxe Pack New York, May 11-12 l Beauty World Middle East, Dubai, May 15-17
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Comment Inside
CONFIDENTIAL CONFIDENTIAL CONFIDENTIAL
It’s no secret that the niche and high-end fragrance market is attracting more attention from brands and
retailers. This is mostly down to the growth in the sector: the category is seeing increases of around 20% a year, according to some sources.However, what is emerging as a new trend is the
increased focus brands are putting on their high-end and exclusive collections in terms of retail. In January, LVMH-owned Guerlain set out to reinforce its positioning as a fragrance expert with a new boutique in Paris devoted
entirely to scent. With the new store, the brand aims to put its fragrance heritage on show and celebrate the art of perfumery. Also at LVMH, Dior has just opened a pop-up store in Paris devoted to its high-end line, La Collection Privée Christian Dior. It is unclear whether this initiative could be a test for a permanent fragrance store. Niche fragrance players have attached importance to having their own stores
for some time—Jo Malone, Annick Goutal, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, to name but a few, all have their own boutiques. In many ways, niche brands have pushed more mainstream players into new areas (they are credited with encouraging major companies to launch their own private-collection lines). The question now is whether these players will also lead the majors to take a different route when it comes to retail.
Niche influences The buzz 2News roundup
Netwatch 6 Social media monitor
Interview 7Qatar Duty Free senior vice president Keith Hunter
www.bwconfidential.com The inside view on the international beauty industry March 31 - April 13, 2016 #128
News headlines daily on www.bwconfidential.com @BWCbeautynews
Meet the BW Confidential
team at:
l Duty Free Show of the Americas, Orlando, April 3-6l in-cosmetics, Paris, April 12-14l Luxe Pack Shanghai, April 13-14l BeautyEurasia, Istanbul, April 21-23l TFWA Asia Pacific, Singapore, May 8-12 l Luxe Pack New York, May 11-12l Beauty World Middle East, Dubai, May 15-17
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At a glance...
Strategy
US-based Avon Products is to cut 2,500 jobs as part of its three-year restructuring plan, which it outlined in January. The company expects to make 1,700 of the job cuts in 2016, and anticipates pre-tax savings of about $30m in the same year. It also expects to achieve annualized pre-tax savings in the region of $65m-$70m beginning in 2017. As well as job cuts, the company will move its corporate headquarters to the UK. Avon Products previously separated its North American business into a privately held
company, in which Avon holds a minority interest. The company said that the North American business will not be affected by any of these moves.
Swiss group Nestlé’s Nestlé Skin Health is to take a majority stake in non-prescription acne brand Proactiv through a joint venture with the brand’s current owner and direct marketing company Guthy-Renker. The transaction is subject to competition authority clearances.
French group L’Oréal has signed an exclusive license agreement with augmented reality technology company Image Metrics for new make-up services. L’Oréal Paris first partnered with Image Metrics in 2014 for the launch of the brand’s Makeup Genius, an app that allows virtual make-up to be applied to users’ faces in real-time. The app aims to help consumers better choose their purchases. Almost 20 million users worldwide have downloaded Makeup Genius, according to L’Oréal. L’Oréal says the partnership will enable the development of new features and the addition of new products.
Swiss flavor and fragrance company Firmenich has inaugurated a plant in Buenos Aires, Argentina. The company says that the new plant will enlarge Firmenich’s footprint in Argentina, as well as serving more than 100 customers across 10 markets globally.
Flavor and fragrance company IFF has teamed up with French perfumery school ISIPCA to offer a master’s program in scent design and creation. The three-year course will take place at ISIPCA’s Versailles campus in France. IFF said that the new partnership represents an evolution of its existing perfumery school.
The 24th edition of the French FIFI Awards, which recognize perfume excellence and are organized by The Fragrance Foundation France, will take place in Paris on April 14. This year’s awards ceremony will be held at famous cabaret, the Lido de Paris. The event will include extracts of the Lido’s latest show choreographed by Franco Dragone n n n
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n n n and featuring singer Manon Trinquier.The ceremony will award a total of 16 prizes, including the FIFI d’OR, which is judged
by a jury of artists. This year the FIFI d’OR jury is presided by designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. The French FIFIs are awarded to fragrances that launched in France the previous year in the market’s main distribution channels.
Results
Swiss travel retailer Dufry reported a net loss of CHF36.9m ($37.3m) in 2015 compared to a net profit of CHF85.8m ($86.82m) a year ago, due to costs linked to its acquisitions of operators Nuance and World Duty Free. Sales rose 46.3% to CHF6.14bn ($6.21bn) last year. Organic sales, however, were down
5.3%, while on a like-for-like basis, sales fell 5.6%. Organic growth for the year was impacted by the volatility in emerging-market currencies, which reduced the purchasing power of certain emerging-market consumers, notably Brazilians and Russians. Organic growth excluding these two customer groups was 4.0%. Dufry said its main focus for 2015 was the integration of Nuance Group, which was
completed by year-end. The company opened a total of 189 new stores in 2015. For 2016, Dufry will focus on integrating World Duty Free, which it acquired last year. The integration plan is expected to be completed by mid-2017.
France-based Interparfums SA generated net income of €29.2m in fiscal 2015, growth of 25%. The group reported a 10% increase in net sales to €327.4m for the year. The company cited strong growth from its Jimmy Choo and Montblanc brands, coupled with a favorable foreign exchange impact, as reasons for growth. In 2015, Interparfums boosted its marketing and advertising budgets. The company
has a total marketing and advertising budget of almost €80m for 2016. It says it plans to allocate substantial resources to develop its brands, notably for the Coach launch this fall. For 2016, the company anticipates an operating margin between 12% and 13%.
French group Hermès posted a 13.2% increase in net earnings to €973m in 2015, after a heavier tax expense. The company saw an improvement in operating margin of 0.3 points (31.8% of sales), despite the impact of currency fluctuations. As previously reported, sales rose 18% (+8% at constant exchange rates) to €4.84bn for the year. Hermès said it increased its workforce by almost 500 people, including 400 in France, mainly in its production facilities and sales teams. For fiscal 2016, Hermès stated that due to economic, geopolitical and monetary
uncertainties, sales could be below its medium-term goal of 8% growth at constant exchange rates.
Retail
Lancôme and Chanel were the big winners at retail group AS Watson’s first European Luxury Beauty Awards, which took place on March 17. Lancôme won prizes in the fragrance, eye make-up, facial make-up and specialist products categories, while Chanel took home awards in men’s fragrance, eye care and lip products. n n n
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z News roundupn n n To select the winners, AS Watson asked its beauty advisors and customers to vote
for their favorite luxury beauty products. The voting process took place in the fourth quarter of 2015, with the first round of voting including 3,400 beauty advisors in AS Watson’s 1,500 stores across Europe, namely in Marionnaud, ICI Paris XL and The Perfume Shop. The second round of voting involved 12,270 customers across 14 countries. The retailer said that the objective of the awards is partly to celebrate the group’s 175th anniversary this year and also to engage customers. AS Watson plans to hold the awards every two years.
People
US-based Revlon has appointed Fabian Garcia president and ceo, effective April 15. Garcia was also named to the company’s board of directors, as well as to the board of Revlon’s wholly owned operating subsidiary, Revlon Consumer Products Corporation.Garcia spent the last 13 years at Colgate-Palmolive, where he led the business in Asia-Pacific, Eurasia, Latin America, and most recently Europe. He replaces Lorenzo Delpani, who announced in February that he was stepping down.
L’Oréal has named Alexandre Popoff, general manager of Africa Middle East, in addition to his role of general manager of Eastern Europe. The appointment is effective June 1. He replaces Geoff Skingsley, who will take on the role of non-executive chairman of
L’Oréal UK & Ireland. Popoff joined L’Oréal in 1989, and in 2013 became executive vice president Eastern Europe.
Data
The fragrance category in the US contributed more annual dollar gains than skincare for the first time last year, due to changing preferences of millennials, according to market-research company The NPD Group.NPD found that millennials are using more
fragrance and fewer of them are using facial skincare. It also noted that millennial users are most likely to look for products with doctor endorsements and natural/organic ingredients. Brands with a natural and/or clinical orientation now represent the largest combined share of prestige skincare sales and accounted for all category gains last year. In addition, skincare’s growth came from online sales, while brick-and-mortar sales declined. Meanwhile, anti-aging skincare sales are
falling, as consumers look more to complexion-preparation products than n n n
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n n n correction and prevention items. CC creams and make-up primers alone contributed over $490m to the industry in 2015, growing 58% over two years.NPD also outlined the trend for skin supplements that work from the inside out. It said
that dollar sales of face supplements have grown more than five-fold over the past two years, becoming a $4.1m market in the US in 2015.
The number of new fragrances that launched on the global market in 2015 rose to 2,044, compared with 1,768 in 2014, according to data from Fragrances of the World 2016 by industry expert Michael Edwards. While the number of men’s launches dropped slightly to 349, from 357 in 2014, women’s launches reached 954, up from 915 in 2014. Limited-edition launches rose to 261, versus 251 in 2014. There was a marked increase in the number of artisan fragrance launches in 2015, with a total of 817 introduced, against 526 the previous year.
France’s cosmetics exports grew 4.4% in 2015 to €11.8bn, according to French beauty industry association Febea. France’s trade balance for the cosmetics sector exceeded €9bn for the first time last year. The make-up category put in a strong performance, with lip make-up exports up 17%,
while those for powders rose 12%, and eye make-up shipments increased by 10%. Skincare products represented 42.5% of France’s beauty exports and fragrance 33%. In 2015, some 48.9% of France’s cosmetics products were exported to the European
Union, up 5.8% from 2014. Germany, the US, the UK, Spain and Italy were the biggest importers of French products last year. Some 16.2% of France’s beauty exports were to Asia. However, exports to China slowed, with an increase of 8% on the previous year, compared with growth of 16.5% in 2014. Shipments to the Middle East rose 12%, driven by the UAE (+14%) and Saudi Arabia (+11%.) The only region to record a decrease was non-EU Europe, due to Russia’s difficult economic climate. Febea said there was a 44% drop in the trade balance with Russia.
Launches
US-based P&G is set to launch a new fragrance for the Stella McCartney brand this summer. Called Pop, the scent is aimed at young consumers and combines notes of tuberose and sandalwood. The bottle is an inverted version of the Stella fragrance flacon and features a metallic pink cap with an integrated spray button. Pop will launch in July in the UK and will retail for £42 ($60) for the 30ml EdP.
L’Oréal-owned Lancôme has teamed up with the designer Sonia Rykiel for its fall make-up collection. This latest partnership is in line with the brand’s strategy of collaborating with the art, fashion and jewelry worlds. The limited-edition Sonia Rykiel x Lancôme collection will be available from mid-August this year. n
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New global fragrance launches 2014 vs 2015 2014 2015
Source: www.FragrancesoftheWorld.Info Michael Edwards 2016
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BW Confidential reports on what’s being said about beauty on social networks
Social media monitor
L’Oréal Paris’ oil-infused Color Riche L’Huile Nail Varnish has been described as one of the most interesting nail color launches of late. It is liked for its easy application, long-lasting color and eye-catching quilted bottle design.
The rise in niche fragrance launches has more bloggers questioning the definition of niche. With a number of brands offering sales or widening their distribution on the internet, some bloggers are wary of their favorite brands going mainstream.
Charcoal has again been highlighted as a new trendy ingredient. Some attribute its popularity to cult brand Glamglow’s success. Praised for its cleansing and purifying properties, charcoal has been used by brands including Yes to, Bioré and Sanctuary Spa.
Bloggers are hailing Lancôme’s appointment of Isabella Rossellini as spokesmodel. The actress, who first fronted the brand 13 years ago, is described as a welcome change from the usual ‘photoshopped’ models that represent beauty brands.
The Korean modeling mask trend is a hit online. The powder product is mixed with water to produce a gelatinous formula that dries after it is applied into a rubber-like mask.
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Qatar Duty Free senior vice president Keith Hunter calls for suppliers to rise to the challenge of tackling price concerns driven by currency fluctuations
Paying the price
How is beauty performing and which factors are driving growth?Beauty is performing well, but it has been a tough year. Beauty grew by around 8% in 2015 over the previous year, and with duty free overall we were up 18%. Arabic and oud-based fragrances are a big growth area for us. This region is dominated by fragrance, which drives around 70% of our beauty sales. We have placed a lot of focus on skincare. We have had to do discounting on that to keep the category moving, but it is massively up on last year. Unfortunately, beauty is behind the general trend and it is one of the categories heaviest hit by pricing. Beauty still has a lot more potential, but is struggling under pressure from currency
exchange. Some brands have risen to the challenge and invested heavily in support to keep the products moving by looking at pricing and at initiatives and experiential activations focused on marketing and advertising and additional training.
How is the strength of the US dollar against currencies such as the euro impacting the business? Ultimately brands have to wake up and stop taking advantage—personally I believe they are all doing very well out of this. That said, there is no denying the business has gone backwards in a lot of locations so I’m sure they are struggling with some of our peers around and outside the region who have seen a decline in beauty. Some brands have come to support it and others have said there is nothing they can
do and they need to wait and see. We found this a very lax approach and we have tried to be a lot more demanding with how they can address some of those pricing concerns. It’s not just about what money they make in the back end due to the currency difference. We have got to present a value offer to our customers. We continue to invest to grow this market across the Middle East, not just in Qatar. I feel that now a lot of the brands have taken that for granted, and while it has been difficult elsewhere they are ignoring any proactive stance here to address some of those price concerns.
Will you look to scale back space with brands that are not proactive?Absolutely. We have had to stop pushing some brands as heavily and focus on those that are supporting us so we can achieve the correct growth. It has to be commercially viable, so there’s no point in pushing brands that aren’t supporting us because they are making money, while we are losing it. We are over a year and a half in at the new airport and we are beginning to see different
trends and patterns. We are reacting by either adding new installations to certain areas or relocating brands into either more prolific areas or vice versa depending on how they are performing. With that re-allocation of space we have to tackle the brands that just aren’t moving. We are trying to encourage brands to bring something new to travel retail and launch into this channel first before the domestic market. n n n
Qatar Duty Free senior vice president Keith Hunter
“
”Qatar Duty Free senior vice president Keith Hunter
We are trying to encourage brands to bring something new to travel retail and launch into this channel first before the domestic market
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n n n How is your product assortment changing?We carry the big brands and sometimes feature global debuts, but on top of that we are showcasing something travelers don’t normally see. We have a lot more work to do on this and we are looking at the opportunities in fragrance factories where you can blend your own scents. The main thing is how we integrate some of these new opportunities alongside the main areas so they do not detract or cannibalize [that business]. Originally, the P&C area was set up a bit like a journey of discovery with a meandering
space, which takes you from the big three-axis brands into the single fragrance labels. So where we situate new and niche offers is very important. We have a big project underway reworking a lot of those spaces. Outside this space we have added a lot more to the category. A few months ago we opened the Blush emporium and went more for the mass offering there. There’s no denying we have a lot more work to do in-store. The nail salon is a good complement and we have to work a lot harder at letting consumers know the service is here. We also have express stores all over the terminal that bring together the best of the best. We installed experiential pop-ups on the concourse, but also on the peripheries of the South node. This gives a bigger footprint to the category.
What would you like to see beauty brands do better?There needs to be more focus on newness, and not just inventing the same fragrance in a different bottle. More novelties, an increased focus on range, bundle products, bringing together collections, more exclusive packaging for travel-retail and more initiatives that offer engagement to passengers are needed. There is a lot more potential for services too.
How do you see the impact of consolidation among travel retailers?I can see why [operators] are doing it, but what threat does it pose? When you get other bigger retailers coming in they generally have a very established portfolio and when they take over a new airport you tend to see a lot of replication. We have seen it very close to hand here where one big retailer took over an airport and removed half of the key product that was selling very nicely but it didn’t fit within their portfolio. We are very much about being profile specific. You have to tailor the offer; it’s not a one size fits all.
What digital initiatives are you putting in place?We recently relaunched the Qatar Duty Free website and are in the process of testing our click & collect service on the site, which will allow passengers to pre-order their duty-free and collect it at departures or arrivals. We are using mobile geo-targeting pushing relevant offers and messages to passengers in the terminal in their own language. We are also using the Hamad International airport mobile app to push store messages and promotions. E-commerce is not a replacement for traditional duty-free, it’s an additional prospect. With online, everyone said it was a threat and yes it is to a degree as people will use it for ease. But most people in airports aren’t buying what they absolutely need. They are impulse purchases and that’s why we have the pop-ups to stop them in their tracks. n
Qatar Duty Free senior vice president Keith Hunter
“
”Qatar Duty Free senior vice president Keith Hunter
Beauty is struggling under the weight of pressure from currency exchange […] Some brands have come to support it and others have said there is nothing they can do. We found this a very lax approach
s In addition to big brands, Qatar Duty Free is looking to showcase lines and services that travelers don’t normally see
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Brazil may be seeing a slowdown, and the make-up category has seen sales fall due to the general economic climate, but the color category has nonetheless witnessed
strong developments over the past few years. It is estimated that total color sales in Brazil fell 5.2% in 2015 to R$2.78bn (US$753.83m), according to preliminary figures from Brazilian beauty association ABIHPEC. But some sub-categories are holding their own. The lip category for example, saw sales rise by 2.4% last year to R$750.86m (US$203.53m)—good growth given the overall market. Nail polish, however, saw a steep decline (as is the case in other markets). Recent developments in the category are
down to the entrance of new players and stronger growth outside the traditional door-to-door channel, whether it be through new retailers or the web. LVMH-owned perfumery chain Sephora for example, has had a strong impact on the market. Indeed, this is one of the reasons that in 2014 premium color cosmetics performed better than mass products in the category.
Sephora and MAC drive colorSephora moved to Brazil in 2010 through the acquisition of local e-commerce player Sacks, although the first brick-and-mortar store in Brazil was inaugurated in n n n
Brazil’s beauty market is going through tough times, but there has been much development in the country’s make-up category
Color surgeMake-up in Brazil
Brazil make-up sales by category 2015*Category Sales R$m
Total 2,780.98 753.83 -5.2Source: ABIHPEC *2015 estimate
Avon and Grupo Boticário’s Quem Disse, Berenice? continue to perform well in make-up in Brazil
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n n n 2012 in São Paulo. Today, Sephora operates 17 stores in four states in Brazil and five pop-up stores, and it covers the entire country with its e-commerce operation. One of the main changes that the retailer brought to the market was its move to give consumers the chance to test and experiment with the products in-store, which in a market dominated by direct selling was not always possible. The development of color brand MAC in the country is also said to have fueled growth
of the make-up category. The Estée Lauder Companies–owned brand, which has 52 stores in Brazil, also puts a strong focus on testing and playing with the products. Other foreign brands making progress in the market include Bourjois (now owned by
Coty). In 2013, Bourjois diversified its distribution with a move to sell though the direct- sales channel in a deal with Brazilian door-to-door company Racco.Although the trial was not a success, through the operation, the brand learnt to come
out with more competitive prices and it gave Bourjois access to a new class of consumers. Since 2015, Bourjois has been in the hands of a new distributor, Prestige Cosmeticos, managed by Evelyse Britto, the former general manager of LVMH and Chanel in Brazil. The brand is now repositioned in retail channels with a portfolio of almost 300 skus distributed in 230 points of sale. “With more affordable prices and adjustments under the exchange rate, we democratized the brand, thereby obtaining excellent results in 2015 when our sales rose 40%. Today we are in the main retail outlets: perfumeries, pharmacies and even e-commerce, which allows us a national distribution. We expect to see 25% growth in 2016; the market has a great growth potential,” says Britto.
Local players expandIn addition, local players have been eager to tap into the potential in the make-up category. Quem Disse Berenice?, the make-up brand from Grupo Boticário that launched in 2012, is a response to the demand for more affordably priced products in the category. In just three years the brand has built a network of 155 stores and a portfolio of 482 skus, and it plans to continue at this pace of development. Another local brand called Océane launched in 2009 with nail polish removal wipes.
Océane executive director Michel Chehaibar identified a gap in the market for attractive, quality products with competitive prices. This has led to the expansion of the brand over the years and the opening of its first concept store at Paulista Shopping Center in São Paulo city, last year. The brand markets about 500 skus (beauty products and make-up accessories) in
around 6,000 points of sale (perfumeries and drugstores) in the country. “The Brazilian market still has much room to grow and consumer habits in recent years have changed a lot. Although lipstick and nail polish are the entry-level products for the category, facial products are expanding. Nevertheless, our biggest challenge is still to be able to sell the products in stores where the products can be tested and experimented with.” Internet retailers have also boosted the market. E-commerce sites such as Sephora.com
and local player Belezanaweb have done well due to the price promotions they offer on a large number of premium brands and aggressive payment conditions, such as payment in interest-free monthly installments for 12 months. But despite these new growth drivers, the market’s traditional companies, such as direct
sellers Natura and Avon continue to play a key role in the market. According to Euromonitor International figures, Avon Cosméticos maintained the leading position in color cosmetics in 2014 (2015 figures are not yet available) with a value share of n n n
The national agency of sanitary surveillance ANVISA increased the cost for brands registering products in Brazil, inhibiting the entry of imported brands that now have to pay even more to bring their products to a market that was already expensive to operate in
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One of the main changes that [Sephora] brought to the market was its move to give consumers the chance to test and experiment with the products in-store
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n n n 24%. The company accounts for one in every two lipsticks sold in Brazil. The latest lipstick launch from Avon, Ultramatte Lipstick with SPF sells for R$26.99 (US$7.44), which is considered an interesting price for consumers in the market. According to Avon research, in Brazil, the relationship between cost of the products and benefits it brings is crucial to consumers when buying these items. However, Brazil’s make-up market is not all rosy. In addition to the country’s
floundering economy and consumers’ lower purchasing power, in May 2015, the national agency of sanitary surveillance ANVISA increased the cost for brands registering products in Brazil, thereby inhibiting the entry of imported brands that now have to pay even more to bring their products to a market that was already expensive to operate in. This has been too much for some players. Brands like Shiseido-owned Bare
Minerals for example, announced the closure of its operation in Brazil at the beginning of this year. Despite this, analysts say that competition in the category is likely to increase
as the number of players in color cosmetics grows. Brands looking towards a multichannel distribution strategy are also expected to see competition intensify. At the end of the day, this is likely to be beneficial for consumers, who will be able to choose from a wide variety of products and brands in all price segments. n
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Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna Took place: March 17-21, Bologna, Italy Exhibitors: 2,510Visitors: 250,000
Seen in show France-based Albéa presented a new extra-slim fiber mascara collection called Cats’Eye (pictured) of two very thin brushes with short fibers to enable ease of application even for small, straight and stiff lashes. It specifically targets the Asian market. Panther Brush claims to offer extra curl thanks to the curved brush, while Lynx Brush due to its threaded rod, can coat the lashes from root to tip in one stroke thereby creating a volume effect. The company also presented Cera-shibo technology developed in partnership with German surface specialist Eschmann Textures. It is based on the use of a patterned sheet of ceramics to create textured mascara packs. Italy-based Drop Nail (Intercos group) launched its Polish Writer Nail marker, which is easy to apply and dries instantly, and Revolution Spray Play that enables nail polish to be sprayed on. “We are aiming for more products that you apply and remove easily, n n n
This year’s edition of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna highlighted beauty’s emerging product sectors. For example, for the first time, the show had an area dedicated to
halal beauty hosting 15 companies. The area devoted to green cosmetics was bigger, with a 22.15% increase in space, and Natrue, the international association for natural cosmetics, attended the show for the first time. As for the Extraordinary Gallery, which is reserved for niche and high-end brands, some exhibitors complained that the space is not as visually attractive as it could have been. In terms of other product trends highlighted at the show, there was a big focus on
environmental issues, while bands sporting vegan-friendly claims were also more prominent this year. As for the buoyant make-up sector, many brands aimed to show the fun aspect of color cosmetics through scented lip gloss or nail polish. In the nails sub-segment, which has see a decline in sales over the past few years, manufacturers said they were aiming to come up with new delivery systems, such as nail polish sprays or nail markers to revive consumers’ interest in the category. Key players, especially in the packaging sector, and small-to-medium sized companies
in make-up said that the show is an important international platform. “Cosmoprof is the only show we are committed to because our biggest customers and the decision-makers are here,” commented Anisa senior director marketing and communication Jules Dykes.In terms of the show itself, this year’s edition saw a slight increase in the number of
visitors—250,000 versus 248,000 last year, and hosted 2,510 exhibitors (73% from abroad), a 5% increase on last year. Next year, Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna will celebrate its 50th birthday, when the show will be held from March 16-20.
BW Confidential reports on what was seen and heard at Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna and Cosmopack, which took place in Italy from March 17-21
www.bwconfidential.com - March 31 - April 13, 2016 #128 - Page 14
Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna/Cosmopackn n n rather than long-lasting gels”, explained Drop Nail managing director Alessandro Recupero. This was the thinking behind the launch of The One and Only, a one-stroke product enriched with new organic pigments that stay on the nails after a single application. Another innovation is the Plump Up base coat with a volume effect formulated with micro-sphere powders and an ingredient extracted from plant stem cells claimed to strengthen the nails.
Luxembourg-based Il cosmetics showcased its Hybrid nail polish, which according to the company is a safe alternative to gel. The application of the nail polish is followed by that of the top coat. The photo initiator in its formula reacts with the oligomer contained in the color coat meaning there is no need for an LED or UV light. The company claims the formula provides shine for over a week and lasts up to 11 days. Although the nail market has lost 18% of its value in the past six years, Il Cosmetics says its sales have increased. The company reported sales of €55m in 2015 and is forecasting revenues of €59.5m for 2016. The company also claims to be the number-one supplier of nail polish products in Europe. It aims to reinforce its presence in the US.
Italy-based Chromavis (Fareva group) used the show to highlight its nail polish collections. The focus was on the Nail Polish Spray, which won the Cosmopack Wall Special Avant-Garde Award. The product is sprayed on the nails after the application of a base coat and is available in 11 semi-matte shades. A range of special effect products were also presented. The Ice Cream Collection for example, is scented with fruity fragrances and has a cooling effect, while The Crazy Light UV top coat is applied after a black base coat and glows under UV lamps in discos.
US-based brush manufacturer Anisa used the show to unveil its news that the company has stopped using pony hair in its brushes and has replaced them with synthetic fibers. The company plans to eliminate the use of animal fibers completely by the end of 2017. This is not only for environmental reasons, but also to better control costs. A focus was also placed on the new brush care collection, which includes a practical Refresh brush spray that cleans the brush and dries instantly.
German company Faber-Castell Cosmetics presented new lines of pencils reflecting upcoming trends. Vegan Beauty is composed of eyeliners and lipsticks containing no animal-derived ingredients and enriched with organic jojoba oil, chamomile or sea buckthorn. The wooden pencils in a neo-nude style are lightly colored with a lacquer layer containing only 4% of solvent. Jelly Baby is a line of lip balms composed of scented plastic Jumbo pencils with a gel-like texture and glitters. Gorgeous Glow is a duo highlighter (matte on one side and pearly on the other) that claims to make the eyes appear wider.
Turkish make-up brand Note (group Altona Cosmetics, a branch of Germany’s ACT group) presented a complete line of 450 skus at the show. The brand, which launched in 2013, also introduced its new Mineral line. Note’s general manager Americas Jeffrey Ten announced the brand’s US launch next July. “Note has the characteristics of a professional make-up line at affordable prices, and our objectives are ambitious: in five years we aim for $60m in sales in the US,” said Ten. Note is currently sold in 500 pos in Turkey and in 40 other markets. n
LVMH-owned Dior opened a pop-up store in Paris, exclusively devoted to its high-end fragrance line La Collection Privée Christian Dior in March. The
brand did not reveal how long the store will stay open for. Located on the French capital’s rue Saint-Honoré, the pop-up store features
black and white lacquer displays and is designed to highlight the raw materials used in the collection, according to the group. Dior’s fragrance collection, composed by the brand’s in-house perfumer
François Demachy and comprising 16 signature scents, is sold at the store as well as the brand’s candles and Elixirs.Dior is one of several brands to focus on their own retail spaces for their
fragrance offers. In January, Guerlain, also part of LVMH, opened a fragrance-only boutique in Paris that was designed to pay homage to the role of the perfumer, put the brand’s fragrance heritage on show and celebrate the art of perfumery. n
Dior opens a temporary store for its high-end fragrance collection
Fragrance forward
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