Ann Taylor Ann Taylor Loft
Ann Taylor Factory Stores
Construction Guidelines
JACKETS
Lined
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 2 November 2009
TABLE of CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION: ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 4
CUTTING & MATCHING REQUIREMENTS: ............................................................................................................................................... 4
STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS - LINED JACKET: .................................................................................................................................... 4
STANDARD CONSTRUCTION GUIDELINES SECTION (PAGES 6-27) ........................................................................................................ 4
FUSIBLE INTERLINING GUIDELINES ......................................................................................................................................................... 5 Fusible with Floating Canvas Chest Piece: .............................................................................................................................................. 5 Taping for Floating Canvas Chest Piece: ................................................................................................................................................. 7 Taping for Floating Canvas with “Felt on Canvas” Chest Piece: ............................................................................................................. 8 Fusible with Fused Chest Piece: ............................................................................................................................................................. 9 Taping for Fused Chest Piece: .............................................................................................................................................................. 10
STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKETS: ..................................................................................................... 11 General Seams: ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 11 Panel Seam – (with ease at bust area) .................................................................................................................................................. 11 Shoulder Seam ...................................................................................................................................................................................... 12 Princess Seam – Round Shape / Angled ............................................................................................................................................... 12 Sleeve Ease: .......................................................................................................................................................................................... 13 Armhole ................................................................................................................................................................................................. 13 Collar (Banana Stand Top & Under Collar); 2 Pc Under Collar ................................................................................................................ 14 Collar (1 Pc Top Collar; 2 Pc Under Collar); with Faux Stand Stitch ....................................................................................................... 15 Collar (1 Pc Top Collar; 2 Pc Under Collar); No Faux Stand Stitch ......................................................................................................... 15 Lapel / Collar & Neck Join Seam ........................................................................................................................................................... 16 Edge Seams: ......................................................................................................................................................................................... 16
LEATHER SEAMING ................................................................................................................................................................................. 17 Lockstitch – Glued Open Press ............................................................................................................................................................. 17 Lockstitch – Glued Pressed Closed ....................................................................................................................................................... 17
SWEEP VENT – CLOSED; BLOCKED HEM: ............................................................................................................................................. 18
2-PIECE SLEEVE W/ CLOSED VENT ........................................................................................................................................................ 19
SHOULDER PAD & SLEEVE HEAD SETTINGS: ....................................................................................................................................... 20
SHOULDER PAD / LINING ATTACHMENT: .............................................................................................................................................. 21
BODY LINING - BACK WITH KNIFE PLEAT AT CENTER BACK: ............................................................................................................... 22
ENVELOPE FRONT HEM / FRONT FACING FINISH ................................................................................................................................. 22
EXCEPTION FRONT HEM / FRONT FACING FINISHES: .......................................................................................................................... 23
LAPEL EDGE/FRONT EDGE FINISH: ........................................................................................................................................................ 23
LINING FINISHING:................................................................................................................................................................................... 24
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 3 November 2009
LINING INSIDE POCKET - WEARER’S LEFT FRONT: ............................................................................................................................... 24
BUTTON SETTING .................................................................................................................................................................................... 25
DECORATIVE EMBELLISHMENT SETTING ............................................................................................................................................. 26
STYLE SPECIFIC CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS (PAGES 28-52) ................................................................................................................. 28
DARTS: ..................................................................................................................................................................................................... 28
COLLAR OPTIONS: .................................................................................................................................................................................. 29 Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Pc Under Collar (with and without Edgestitch at Stand seam) ............................................................. 29 Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 1 Pc. Under Collar Collar w/o Stand (w/ and w/o Faux Stitch) ............................................................ 30 Collars with Full Stand: .......................................................................................................................................................................... 31 Collar w/ Full Stand................................................................................................................................................................................ 32 Mandarin Collar ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 32
FACING TYPES AND PIECED LAPELS: .................................................................................................................................................... 33
KISSING CLOSURES: ............................................................................................................................................................................... 36
SLIT W/ MITERED CORNER: .................................................................................................................................................................... 37
WELT POCKETS: ...................................................................................................................................................................................... 38
CHEST POCKET: ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 39
BESOM POCKETS: ................................................................................................................................................................................... 40
VERTICAL / ANGLED WELT OR BESOM POCKET: ................................................................................................................................ 41
VERTICAL “ONSEAM” POCKET: ............................................................................................................................................................. 42
PATCH POCKETS: .................................................................................................................................................................................... 43
POCKET FLAP – WELT OR BESOM POCKET: ......................................................................................................................................... 44 POCKET FLAP – Patch pocket: ............................................................................................................................................................. 44
PLEATS: .................................................................................................................................................................................................... 45
BINDING & PIPING FINISHES: ................................................................................................................................................................. 46
BUTTONHOLES: ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 46
ZIPPER FRONT CLOSURES: .................................................................................................................................................................... 47
ZIPPER TERMS: ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 48
OTHER CLOSURES: ................................................................................................................................................................................. 49
BELT LOOPS: ........................................................................................................................................................................................... 50
DECORATIVE STITCHES: ......................................................................................................................................................................... 51
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 4 November 2009
LINED JACKET
INTRODUCTION: The Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Construction Guidelines represent the base standards for garment construction methods, terminology
and components. These guidelines provide a common approach to achieve consistent construction and superlative quality for all Ann Taylor, Loft and
Ann Taylor Factory Stores apparel products. The guidelines are a resource to establish requirements for styling, garment construction and component parts.
NOTE: See Garment Specification Package for style specific construction and components.
CUTTING & MATCHING REQUIREMENTS:
SHADES: All shades are to be individually labeled.
PLAIDS & STRIPES (Vertical and Horizontal):
Plaid is to match around garment. Horizontal stripes are to match around garment. Sleeve is to match front at pitch point. Top Collar –Center Back to match body on vertical pattern, where practical. Front Pockets & Flaps to match vertical and horizontal patterns (unless otherwise specified in Spec Package). Left and right of garments are to have balanced placement. One-way fabrics are to be cut in same direction unless otherwise specified to be “A”/”B” marker. Style specific plaid & stripe placement requirements are to be reviewed and documented on Development Spec Package. NOTE: Placement is to be confirmed prior to fit approval and documented in Production Spec Package.
STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS - LINED JACKET: 1 1/2” Front Overlap (unless otherwise specified in Spec Package). 2-Piece Sleeve (with or without Sleeve Vent; See Spec Package). NOTE: 1-Piece Sleeve only when style specific per Spec Package. Fully lined, closed bottom. NOTE: Body lining to have darts corresponding to body shell. Stitches per Inch (SPI): Shell: 10-12 SPI Topstitching: See Spec Package. Lining: 10-12 SPI Lockstitch or Chainstitch
STANDARD CONSTRUCTION GUIDELINES SECTION (PAGES 6-27)
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 5 November 2009
FUSIBLE INTERLINING GUIDELINES • Interlining qualities and methods are primary standards for Ann Taylor Stores Jackets & Coats. • This standard may be applied to Loft jackets & coats on a case-by-case basis. • All Interlinings, primary standard or otherwise, are to be tested for all fabrications to verify compatibility and performance. • Bias Cut Shell: Fusible must be cut on straight grain.
Fusible with Floating Canvas Chest Piece:
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 6 November 2009
Set Canvas Chest Piece to Front Set Canvas w/ Felt Chest Piece to Front
Note: Set Canvas Chest Piece after Front is fused. Note: Set Canvas w/ Felt Chest Piece to Front after Front is fused.
Anchor Chest Piece at Shoulder w/ Stay Tape
Anchor Chest Piece to Front (Edge can be set w/ Blindstitched or Double Fuse Tape)
Anchor Chest Piece
Anchor Chest Piece at Atmhole (stitch inseam allowance)
Cut Canvas on Semi-bias
Anchor Chest Piece at Shoulder w/ Stay Tape
Anchor Chest Piece to Front (Edge can be set w/ Blindstitched or Double Fuse Tape)
Felt Applied to Canvas Chest Piece
Cut Felt 3/8" smaller than canvas
Cut Felt piece to finish 1" down from Shoulder
FELT
Set Felt to Canvas at center of Chest Piece
Remove Felt seam allowance at Armhole (2" down from Shoulder)
Anchor Chest Piece at Armhole (stitch in seam allowance)
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 7 November 2009
TAPING GUIDELINES • Taping qualities are primary standards for Ann Taylor Stores & Loft. • Tape at CF may be eliminated on lighter weight fabrics in which case a staystitch or bias lining tape may be substituted.
Taping for Floating Canvas Chest Piece:
CMW 2004
TP 3000
TP 6000
K 771
V 901* Charcoal available
Front Shoulder
Armhole TapeBack Neck Tape
ANN TAYLOR TAPING & FUSING STANDARDS (with Canvas)
Front Edge,Bridle
Canvas Floating Chest Piece
KUFNER PCC
Set Tape 1" down from shoulder seam
Set w/ Twill Tape on seam line
Pocket Backingii2610V 401
* Charcoal available
Set Twill Tape w/ 1" - 1 1/2" space at base of armhole seam allowance
B901* Black available
V901T-B27* Black available
3170
Note: Reference #s below are for White/Natural. For other colors, use corresponding Reference # for same quality.
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 8 November 2009
TAPING GUIDELINES • Taping qualities are primary standards for Ann Taylor Stores. • Tape at CF may be eliminated on lighter weight fabrics in which case a staystitch or bias lining tape may be substituted.
Taping for Floating Canvas with “Felt on Canvas” Chest Piece:
CMW 2004
TP 3000
TP 6000
K 771
V 901* Charcoal available
Front Shoulder
Armhole TapeBack Neck Tape
ANN TAYLOR TAPING & FUSING STANDARDS (with "Felt on Canvas" Chest Piece)
Front Edge,Bridle
Canvas Floating Chest Piece
KUFNER PCC
Set Tape 1" down from shoulder seam
Set w/ Twill Tape on seam line
Pocket Backing ii2610V 401* Charcoal available
Set Twill Tape w/ 1 1/4" space at base of armhole seam allowance
B901* Black available
V901T-B27* Black available
3170
Note: Reference #s below are for White/Natural. For other colors, use corresponding Reference # for same quality.
Felt Chest Piece V251
FELT
FELT
LOCATION
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 9 November 2009
FUSIBLE INTERLINING GUIDELINES • Interlining qualities and methods are primary standards for LOFT and Ann Taylor Factory Stores Jackets & Coats. • This standard may be applied to Ann Taylor Stores jackets & coats on a case-by-case basis. • All Interlining, primary standard or otherwise, are to be tested for all fabrications to verify compatibility and performance. • Bias Cut Shell: Fusible must be cut on straight grain.
Fusible with Fused Chest Piece:
ANN TAYLOR INTERLINING STANDARDS (no Canvas)
KUFNERLt.
PCC Med.
KUFNERMed.
V401* Charcoal available
B101* Charcoal available
Weight
Facings, Top Collar & Stand, Back Shoulder, Pocket, Flap, Hems
Front & Side BodyUnder CollarChest
ii2610
ii1020
V401* Charcoal available
R861* Charcoal available
Fused Chest Piece
Front
Fusible to finishabove hemline
PCCLt.
ii2610
ii1061
Back
Fusible to finishabove hemline
Front FacingTop Sleeve
CB UnderSleeveSide Panel
Under Collar
Note: Reference #s below are for White/Natural. For other colors, use corresponding Reference # for same quality.
Add extra pc at curved edge for stable as needed.
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 10 November 2009
TAPING GUIDELINES • Taping qualities are primary standards for Ann Taylor Stores & Loft. • Tape at CF may be eliminated on lighter weight fabrics in which case a staystitch or bias lining tape may be substituted.
Taping for Fused Chest Piece:
Set w/ Twill Tape on seam line
ANN TAYLOR TAPING & FUSING STANDARDS (no Canvas)
Set Twill Tape w/ 1 1/4" space at base of armhole seam allowance
Set Tape 1" down from shoulder seam
Note: Reference #s below are for White/Natural. For other colors, use corresponding Reference # for same quality.
B901* Black available
Front Shoulder CMW 2004
Pocket Backing V 401* Charcoal available
ii2610
Front Edge,Bridle
Armhole Tape,Back Neck Tape
V901T-B27* Charcoal available
TP 3000
V 901* Charcoal available
KUFNER
TP 6000
PCC
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 11 November 2009
STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKETS:
Description
Seam
Allowance
Seam Type & Finish
General Seams:
• SIDES / PANELS • CENTER BACK • SLEEVE PANELS & SLEEVE
VENT See Spec Pkg. for: • Princess seam requirements. • Topstitched seam
requirements.
1/2” A1-0b Lockstitch; Raw Edge; Open Press
Lockstitch(underside)
Raw Edge
Lockstitch(topside)
Open Press • Lockstitch • Open Press (NOTE: If Topstitched, press to one side of seam. See Spec Pkg.)
Panel Seam – (with ease at
bust area)
1/2” – Panel
seam
NOTE: 3/8”
- Princess
seam
Ease
(Match Notch)
(Match Notch)
(Match Notch)
A1-12 Princess Seam Ease
Ease Front Princess:1) Pre-stitch front princess between notches with shirring stitch.2) Join seam.
• Lockstitch
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 12 November 2009
STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKET:
Description
Seam
Allowance
Seam Type & Finish
Shoulder Seam
1/2”
FrontBack
Ease at Back Shoulder between notches
(Match Notches)
1. Pre-stitch back shoulder between notches w/ shirring stitch.2. Back Shoulder must be eased into Front Shoulder.* Do not stretch Front Shoulder.
A1-13 Shoulder Seam (w/ ease)
• Lockstitch • Open Press
Princess Seam – Round
Shape / Angled
3/8”
A1-14a Princess-Round Shape
Fron
t Edg
e
* Pressed seam allowance open Or* Press toward topstitching
Inside of Garment
* Ease front panel at curve * Align front & side panel notches* Clip shaped curve as needed for smooth curve finish.
Inside of Garment
Fron
t Edg
e
* Press seam allowance open Or* Press toward topstitching Clip to 1/8"
from corner
A1-15a Princess; Angled/Seams
Notch at corner* If needed
• Lockstitch • Open press
OR press toward Topstitching
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 13 November 2009
STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKET:
Description
Seam
Allowance
Seam Type & Finish
Sleeve Ease: NOTE: Ease stitch 1/16” – 1/8” from seam line
3/8”
A1-16 Sleeve Cap Ease
Ease Cap
Back Sleeve Cap
* Ease Sleeve Cap evenly * Sleeve Cap & Armhole notches aligned
• Ease /
Basting Stitch (except with auto-sleeve set machine)
Armhole Standard Armhole pressing – “Open press” at top of Armhole (unless indicated otherwise in Spec Pkg.)
3/8” A1-17a Jacket Armhole Seam -
Inside of Sleeve
Shoulder Seam Press open at top of Armhole
Press toward sleeve
(1 1/2" each side of shoulder seam)
Press Open at Top
A1-17b Jacket Armhole Seam -
Inside of Sleeve
Shoulder Seam
Press toward sleeve all around.
Press toward Sleeve• Lockstitch
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 14 November 2009
STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKET:
Description
Seam
Allowance
Seam Type & Finish
Collar (Banana Stand Top &
Under Collar); 2 Pc Under
Collar See Spec Pkg.: • Collar sketch represents
construction only (not for collar / stand shape).
• Banana Stand seam with or without edgestitch.
• Collar edge with or without topstitching.
1/2”
Center Back
Seam
1/4” Stand
Join Seam
1/4”
Outer Edge
Outside of Under Collar
Outside of Top Collar
Bias Cut
Back Stitch
Inside of Top Collar
Inside of Under Collar
J2-7a Top & Under Collar w/Banana Stand w/ Edgestitch at Stand seam
Open Press + Edgestitch
Outside of Under Collar
Outside of Top Collar
Bias Cut
Back Stitch
Inside of Top Collar
Inside of Under CollarOpen Press
J2-7b Top & Under Collar w/Banana Stand No Edgestitch at Stand
• Lockstitch
• Open Press
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 15 November 2009
STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKET:
Description
Seam
Allowance
Seam Type & Finish
Collar (1 Pc Top Collar; 2 Pc
Under Collar); with Faux
Stand Stitch See Spec Pkg.: • Collar sketch represents
construction only (not for collar / stand shape).
• Collar edge with or without topstitching.
1/2”
Center Back
Seam
1/4” Outer
Edge
Open Press
Outside View "Faux" Stand Stitch (Under Collar only)
J2-3a Collar - w/o Collar Stand; 2-Pieced Under Collar (w/faux stand stitch line)
Inside View
Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point
w/ or w/o Topstitch; See specification pkg
Bias Cut
Under Collar
Under Collar
Top Collar - Outside View
• Lockstitch • Open Press –
Center Back seam
Collar (1 Pc Top Collar; 2 Pc
Under Collar); No Faux
Stand Stitch See Spec Pkg.: • Collar sketch represents
construction only (not for collar / stand shape).
• Collar edge with or without topstitching.
1/2”
Center Back
Seam
1/4” Outer
Edge
w/ or w/o Topstitch; See specification pkg
Top Collar - Outside View
J2-3b Collar - w/o Stand; 2-Piece Under Collar (no faux stand stitch)
Outside View
Inside View
Under Collar
Under Collar
Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point
Bias Cut
Open Press
• Lockstitch • Open Press –
Center Back seam
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 16 November 2009
STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKET:
Description
Seam
Allowance
Seam Type & Finish
Lapel / Collar & Neck Join
Seam See Spec Pkg.: • Construction applies to Collars
w/ and w/o Banana stand. • Collar edge with or without
topstitching.
1/4”
* Attach inside Top Collar to Under Collar along Neck seam allowance to point 1" forward of Shoulder Seam
Inside Body & Top Collar
Open Press
Open Press
Inside Body & Under Collar
J3 Neck Facing / Join Seam - Inside View
Open Press
Open Press
Jacket Collar-Facing/Neck Seam
(Note: sketch references neck construction, not collar type/shape)• Lockstitch • Open Press
Edge Seams:
• Collar Edge • Lapel Edge • Front Edge • Pocket seams
1/4”
LockstitchRaw Edge
A1-0a Lockstitch; Raw Edge - (press to one side)
Lockstitch
• Lockstitch
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 17 November 2009
LEATHER SEAMING Lockstitch – Glued Open Press Lockstitch – Glued Pressed Closed
A1-25 Lockstitch; Open Press & Glued
Raw Edge
Lockstitchjoin seam
Open Press andGlued
Seam Details
• Lockstitch • Pressed Open
& glued • 3/8” to 1/ 2”
seam allowance (depending on seam location)
Lockstitchjoin seam
Raw Edge
A1-26 Lockstitch;
Press to one sideand Glued
Seam Details • Lockstitch • Pressed to one
side & glued • 3/8” to 1/ 2”
seam allowance (depending on seam location)
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 18 November 2009
SWEEP VENT – CLOSED; BLOCKED HEM:
Seam
Vent Edge
Interlining to finishabove hemline
Hemline
Wearer's Left Back
A13-a Sweep Vent
Seam allowance Shaped & Tapered to hold Vent
Inner Construction
Interlining
SeamLine
Clean Finish
Wearer's Right Wearer's Left
Seam
Seam
SeamLine
A13-b Sweep Inner Construction
(Under Extension)
Blocked Hem
Lining w/ 1/2" Curtain Pleat
Backstitch
Lini
ng
Seam
WaistA13-c Sweep Vent Finished - Inside of Lining
Ven
t Edg
e
Outside View
Ctr
Bac
k Se
am
Topstitch
A13-9 Sweep Vent-Closed; Blocked Hem Topstitched (at top of Vent)
Ven
t Edg
eOutside View
Top of Vent(no topstitch)
Ctr
Bac
k Se
am
A13-10 Sweep Vent-Closed; Blocked HemNo Topstitch (at top of Vent)
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 19 November 2009
2-PIECE SLEEVE W/ CLOSED VENT NOTE: Not all styles have Sleeve Vent. See Spec Package:
Under Sleeve Top Sleeve
FusibleDo not trim Self
Mitered Seam line
Vent fold line
Sleeve Hem lineInterliningto finishaboveSleeve Hemline
Fusible
Sleeve Hem line
J5-1a Sleeve Vent - Fusible Inside/Pattern
Interliningto finishaboveSleeve Hemline
Notch whenrequired
Mitered Facing
J5-1b Sleeve Hem view w/o Lining
Vent Sewn
Inside Wearer's Left Sleeve
Mitered Facing
NOTE: Sleeve Hem cornerseam allowance is not trimed (for sleeve length alteration)
J5-1c Vent - Mitered Seam
Non-FunctionalButtonhole
Vent stitch line
Sleeve Seam
(before Lining set)
Lining
J5-1d Inside View -
1/2" Curtain Pleat
Wearer's Left Sleeve
Mitered Facing
Wearer's Left Sleeve - Seamed Vent
J5-1e Sleeve Vent - Finished
Vent Open Edge(See spec pkgfor Vent Ht.)
* See Spec Pkg for Button / Buttonhole Detail
Front Sleeve
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 20 November 2009
SHOULDER PAD & SLEEVE HEAD SETTINGS: • Shoulder Pad & Sleeve Head quality and shape as per Ann Taylor Stores / LOFT standards set by Technical Design. • Shoulder Pad Placement from seam as indicated on Sloper or Spec Pkg. • Sleeve Head required for all jackets with Shoulder Pads unless otherwise specified in Spec Package. Set With Lockstitch Along Armhole Seam: Set With Hand-Tack At Armhole: Sleeve Head Setting:
Inside of Front
Thread Tack
J8-1a Shoulder Pad Setting - w/ Thread Tack
Thread Tack
Shoulder PadThread Tack
Thread Tackto the shoulder seam allowance
*See Spec Pkg for Shoulder Pad Placement from Seam Edge.
J8-1b Shoulder Pad Setting - w/Lockstitch
Shoulder Pad
Set 1 1/4" from end of Pad
Inside of Front
Basting Lockstitch; Stitch over Armhole seam
Thread Tackto the shoulder seam allowance
Set 1 1/4" from end of Pad
*See Spec Pkg for Shoulder Pad Placement from Seam Edge.
J8-2 Sleeve Head Setting
Inside of Side Panel
Inside of Front
Insi
de o
f Sle
eve
Shoulder Seam
Inside of Back
Sleeve Head
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 21 November 2009
SHOULDER PAD / LINING ATTACHMENT: • Attachment method applies to Shoulder Pads set with Lockstitch or with Thread-tack. Attached With Lining Strip: Attached With Thread tack:
Shoulder
Pad
Shoulder Pad
Inside of Side Panel
Inside of Front Shell
LINING STRIP
Thread Tack
Inside of Facing
Inside of Lining
Inside of Sleeve Lining
Inside of Lining
* Double Layer (1/2" x 1")* Attach at Natural Side Seam
J8-3a Lining attached at Armhole / Shoulder w/Lining Strip
*Double Layer*1/2" x 1/2"
*See Spec Pkg for Shoulder Pad Placement from Seam Edge.
Lining Strip
Inside of Front Shell
Inside of Side Panel
Inside of Lining
J8-3b Lining attached at Armhole / Shoulder w/ Thread Tack & Lining Strip
Should
er Pad
Inside of Sleeve Lining
Shoulder Pad
Thread Tack
Inside of Lining
Inside of Facing
LINING STRIP* Double Layer (1/2" x 1")* Attach at Natural Side Seam
*See Spec Pkg for Shoulder Pad Placement from Seam Edge.
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 22 November 2009
BODY LINING - BACK WITH KNIFE PLEAT AT CENTER BACK: NOTE: Back Facing eliminated only when confirmed for exception cases and indicated with sketch in Spec Package. Lining Center Back Seam -
A3-3 Knife Pleat / Single Side Pleat
CB Seam
Taper pleat to 0" at waist
Knife Pleat
J9-1a Lining CB Seam Pleat -
Neck Seam
Facing
w/ Back Neck Facing
* Pleat opening at Facing seam* 1/2" deep* Press to wearer's right
Taper pleat to 0" at waist
Knife Pleat
Seam
CB Seam
J9-1b Lining CB Seam Pleat - No Back Neck Facing
CB Seam
* Pleat opening 2" down from Neck seam* 1/2" deep* Press to wearer's right
ENVELOPE FRONT HEM / FRONT FACING FINISH EXCEPTIONS: • Hem with attached facing • Topstitched Hem
J9-3a Front Hem/Facing Envelope Finish
Lining
1/2" Curtain Pleat
Lining
1/2" Curtain Pleat
Prior to Facing / Lining seamed at Hem.
Shell
FacingLining
Cross-Sectionw/ Lining attached
Hem Finish w/ Curtain Pleat
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 23 November 2009
EXCEPTION FRONT HEM / FRONT FACING FINISHES:
Front Facing Finish w/ Hem Facing Front Facing Finish w/ Hem Topstitched
Lining
1/2" Curtain Pleat
J9-3b Front Facing Finish w/ Hem Facing
Cross-Sectionw/ Lining attached
Inside of Lining
Inside of Hem Facing
Inside of Body Facing
Backstitch
Lining
1/2" Curtain Pleat
J9-3c Front Facing Finish w/ Front & Hem Topstitched
FacingLining
Cross-Sectionw/ Lining attached
Topstitch * See Spec Pkg.
Open Press Seam Allowance
LAPEL EDGE/FRONT EDGE FINISH: J4-2a Lapel/ Front Edge Finish
Front Facing Backstitch
Backstitch Under Lapel
Lining
Front Facing
2" up from Top Buttonhole
1" below Top Buttonhole
Note: Front edge may not have "backstitch" when front edge is topstitched.
J4-2b Jacket Attached Facing
Backstitch
Inside View
Front Edge Seam
"Wearer's Right" Front Facing
Straight Front Edge w/ "shaped" Facing
Note: Front edge may not have "backstitch" when front edge is topstitched.
Backstitch
J4-2c Jacket Attached Facing
Note: Front edge may not have "backstitch" when front edge is topstitched.
"Wearer's Right" Front Facing
Front Edge Seam
Inside View
Straight Front Edge w/ "shaped" Facing
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 24 November 2009
LINING FINISHING:
FrontLining
Front Facing
Facing
BackLining
Inside Garment
Internal Tack Internal Tack 1/2" Curtain Pleat
Internal Tack
Close Lining at* Front panel seam* Wearer's Left Sleeve
J9-4a Lining Finishing w/ 2-Piece Sleeve
FrontLining
Front Facing
Facing
BackLining
Inside Garment
Internal Tack
Internal Tack1/2" Curtain Pleat
Internal Tack
Close Liningat wearer's Left Sleeve
J9-4b Lining Finishing w/ 1-Piece Sleeve
BlindstitchSleeve Hem
NOTE: If blindstitch will damage fabric, use 2 pcs of Fusible Tape w/ Blindstitch in between tape layers
LINING INSIDE POCKET - WEARER’S LEFT FRONT: NOTE: Inside Pocket is not standard for all styles. See Spec Pkg.
J9-2 Lining Chest Pocket
Facing
Lining
Inner View
FacingLining
Fusible
Inside Wearer's Left Front
Besom Pocket - See Spec Pkg for Pocket Placement
Baste closed w/ 1/2" open at each end
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 25 November 2009
BUTTON SETTING • Set buttons with “Locking” stitch. • Setting Placement: • 2-Hole Button set with 2 holes aligned with Buttonhole. • 4-Hole Button with parallel stitch, unless otherwise specified. • Logo buttons to be set with Logo in same direction. • Buttons with self-shank do not require Thread Shank. • Double Breasted Inside Button Type – 2-Hole: Flat (no rim); DTM. • Leather and Suede - Stay button for all “functional” buttons.
Front Closure Button Setting:
Thread Shankw/ Wrap
J10-1a Button Setting - Parallel Stitch
* Parallel Stitch* Set Button w/ lockstitch machine
w/ Functional Buttonholes
w/ Functional ButtonholesJ10-1b Button Setting - "X" Stitch
* "X" Stitch* Set Button w/ lockstitch machine
Thread Shankw/ Wrap
w/ Functional ButtonholesJ10-1c Button Setting - "X" Stitch
* "X" Stitch
* Thread Shank w/ Wrap
* "X" Stitch
Sleeve Vents W/Non-Functional Button Setting:
J10-2a Sleeve Vent Button Setting w/ Non-Functional Buttonholes - Parallel Stitch
Wearer's Left Sleeve Vent
* Parallel Stitch* Button set through Shell layers only. (Not set to Lining)
* See Spec Pkg for Button / Buttonholes Placement
Fron
t Vie
w
* "X" Stitch* Button set through Shell layers only. (Not set to Lining)
Fron
t Vie
w
J10-2b Sleeve Vent Button Setting w/ Non-Functional Buttonholes - "X" Stitch
* See Spec Pkg for Button / Buttonholes Placement
Wearer's Left Sleeve Vent
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 26 November 2009
DECORATIVE EMBELLISHMENT SETTING HANDTACKING
Step 1 To form initial knot the thread must passes through self fabric or yarn
Step 2 Circle the needle 2 times, then pull out the needle to form initial knot.
Step 3 Initial knot formed must be tied to the fabric or yarn Tail extending from knot must be trimmed to ¼”.
Step 4 Affix the embellishment to the body using same needle from initial knot on self fabric.
Step 5 Affix the embellishment by using 2 plies of thread with 2 passes through the fabric. Do not make the length of the passes more than ¼” long.
Step 6 After affixing the embellishment on the face side, pass the needle through to the inside for ending knot finishing in the same manner as step 1 and step 2.
MACHINE TACKING 1. If factory has adjusted the normal buttonhole machine into 2 hole stitching for tacking purposes, only “lockstitch” buttonhole machine can be used for Ann Taylor product. 2. If factory uses single lockstitch machine for tacking purposes appropriate and sufficient back stitches must be applied to secure 3. Bar tacking machine application is limited to heavier fabric. Please advise when using this application to Technical Designer or QA for approval.
BEAD AND SEQUIN CONSTRUCTION HAND TACKING 1. Initial knot must be tied up to fabric or yarn in designated position following design layout 2. At least 2 plies of thread with 2 pass of needle must be passed through the fabric or yarn for each tack point. 3. Ending knot must be added to secure each tacked position.
4. Floating thread in between in between tacking cannot exceed ¾” on wrong side of the fabric. Floating thread longer than ¾” is not acceptable.
5. For beading spacing longer than ¾” or all over beading, beading should be tacked separately to secure beads.
Initial Knot
Initial Knot Initial Knot
Rosette/embellishment
Self Fabric
Ending Knot
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 27 November 2009
TACKING FINISH: Note: NO “X” Tack used if fabric surface will be damaged by tack.
Back Sweep Vent “X” Tack Slit “X” Tack
A13-11 Vent/ "X" Tack for Shipping
Lining
Outside Garment
"X" Tack for Shipping
Seam
Ven
t Edg
e
Lini
ng
Seam
Inside Garment
"X" Tack for Shipping
A14-15 Slit-"X" Tack
Peaked Lapel
J10-5 Peaked Lapel w/ Tack
Whip Tack (See Spec Pkg for tack placement)
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 28 November 2009
STYLE SPECIFIC CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS (PAGES 28-52)
DARTS:
Stitch dartfromTopto
Bottom
A2-1 Waist Dart Open End - Sewing Direction
w/ Pocket
Stitch dartfromTopto
Bottom
w/o Pocket
*Note: Do Not Stretch Dart When Sewing
A2-1a Jacket Waist Dart - Single Point (Front / Back)
Press DartOpen
A2-2a Jacket Waist Dart - Double Points (Front / Back)
Press Darttoward Center Frt
A2-3a Jacket Bust Dart
Press Darttoward Hem
A2-4 French Dart
Press Darttoward Hem
A2-5 Lapel Dart - Straight Dart
Press DartOpen
A2-6 Lapel Dart - Shaped
Press DartOpen
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 29 November 2009
COLLAR OPTIONS: NOTE: • Collar sketches are reference for construction only, not for Collar shape. • Collar Edge with or without Topstitching. • See specification package. Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Pc Under Collar (with and without Edgestitch at Stand seam)
J2-1a Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Piece Under Collar Edgestitch at Stand seam
Under CollarBias Cut
Top Collar
Open Press
Open Press + Edgestitch
Inside View
J2-1a Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Piece Under Collar Edgestitch at Stand seam
Bias CutUnder Collar
Top Collar
Outside View
Edgestitch
Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point
Collar Edge: w/ or w/o Topstitch; See specification pkg
J2-1b Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Piece Under Collar No Topstitch at Stand seam
Inside View
Under Collar
Top Collar
Open Press; No Edgestitch
Bias Cut
Open Press
J2-1b Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Piece Under Collar No Topstitch at Stand seam
Under Collar Bias Cut
Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point
Collar Edge: w/ or w/o Topstitch; See specification pkg
Top Collar
Outside View
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 30 November 2009
COLLAR OPTIONS (continued): NOTE: • Collar sketches are reference for construction only, not for Collar shape. • Collar Edge with or without Topstitching. • See specification package. Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 1 Pc. Under Collar Collar w/o Stand (w/ and w/o Faux Stitch)
Bias Cut
Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point
Top Collar - Inside Open Press + Edgestitch
Top Collar - Outside
Under Collar - Outside
w/ or w/o Topstitch; See specification pkg
J2-2a Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 1 Piece Under Collar w/ Topstitch
Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point
Bias Cut
w/ or w/o Topstitch; See specification pkg
Open Press; No Edgestitch
J2-2b Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 1 Piece Under Collar No Topstitch
Top Collar - Inside
Top Collar - Outside
Under Collar - Outside
"Faux" Stand Stitch -(Under Collar only)
Bias Cut
J2-4a Collar w/o Stand; 1-Piece Under Collar (w/faux stand stitch line)
Under Collar
Top Collar - Outside View
Outside View
Collar Edge: w/ or w/o Topstitch; See specification pkg
Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point
Bias Cut
J2-4b Collar w/o Stand; 1-Piece Under Collar (w/ No faux stand stitch line)
Outside View
Under Collar
Collar Edge: w/ or w/o Topstitch; See specification pkg
Top Collar - Outside View
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 31 November 2009
COLLAR OPTIONS (continued): NOTE: • Collar sketches are reference for construction only, not for Collar shape. • Collar Edge with or without Topstitching. • See specification package.
Collars with Full Stand:
Bias Cut
Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point
Open Press + Edgestitch
Press toward Stand+ Edgestitch
J2-5a Collar w/ Full Stand; Open Press Top Collar/Stand w/ Edgestitch
Bias Cut
Top Collar
Under Collar
Edgestitch
Outside View
Edgestitch on stand
Inside View
Top Collar
Under Collar
Bias Cut
Press toward Stand:No TopstitchBack Stitch to 1"
from Collar Point
J2-5b Collar w/ Full Stand; No Topstitch at Stand seam
Press toward Stand:No Topstitch
Inside View
Bias Cut
Outside View
Top Collar
Under Collar
Top Collar
Under Collar
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 32 November 2009
COLLAR OPTIONS (continued): NOTE: • Collar sketches are reference for construction only, not for Collar shape. • Collar Edge with or without Topstitching. • See specification package. Collar w/ Full Stand
Bias Cut
Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point
Top Collar
J2-5c Collar w/ Full Stand; Edgestitch / Topstitch Stand Seam
Press toward Stand
Press toward Stand
Edgestitch OR Topstitch* See Spec Pkg
Bias Cut
Outside View
Under Collar
Inside View
Top Collar
Under Collar
Edgestitch OR Topstitch* See Spec Pkg
Mandarin Collar
J2-6 Stand Collar/ Mandarin Collar
Top Collar
Inside Collar
Back Stitch (if no Topstitch)
(with or without Topstitch)
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 33 November 2009
FACING TYPES AND PIECED LAPELS:
J4-1a 1-Piece Facing - Shaped to Shoulder
Lining
J4-1b Pieced Lapel & Facing
Lining
Front FacingPieced
Front
Pieced Facing
J4-1c "Split" Facing
Lining
Split FacingSeam
FrontFacing
FrontLapel Dart
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 34 November 2009
HIDDEN PLACKETS:
J4-3a Hidden Placket w/ Facing; Topstitched
Outside ViewWearer's Right
Inside ViewWearer's RightFacing
Topstitch
Button Separator Inner Tack
Finshed View
Topstitch
Wearer's Right Facing Wearer's Right Front - Body
Button Separator/ Inner Tack between Buttonholes
LiningAttach Inner Layers (see Spec Pkg):A) Topstitched Button Separator orB) Interior tack (Note: Machine or Hand Tacked)
InteriorTack
J4-3b Hidden Placket w/ Facing; Topstitched
Interior Construction (before Facing set to Front)
Lining or Fabric layer
J4-4a Hidden Placket w/ Facing; Inside Blindstitch
Finished Wearer's Right - Body
Finished Wearer's Right Facing
Button SeparatorInner Tack
Finished View
Inner Layers Attached w/ Blindstich
Blindstitch
Wearer's Right Facing Wearer's Right Front - Body
Button Separator / Inner Tack between Buttonholes
Lining
Attach Inner Layers (see Spec Pkg):A) Topstitched Button Separator orB) Interior tack (Note: Machine or Hand Tacked)
InteriorTack
Interior Construction
Blindstitch
J4-4b Hidden Placket w/ Facing; Inside Blindstitch
Lining or Fabric layer
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 35 November 2009
HIDDEN PLACKETS (continued):
J4-5a Hidden Placket-Attached; set w/ Crackstitch
FinishedWearer's Right - Body
FinishedWearer's Right Facing
Button Separator Inner Tack
* Attached Placket * Set to Facing w/ Crackstitch
Lining
Inside View - Crackstitch
*Note: Placket may have Topstitch See spec pkg.
Finished View
Wearer's Right Facing
Button Separator/ Inner Tack between Buttonholes
Lining or Fabric layer
Attach Inner Layers (see Spec Pkg):A) Attached Button Separator orB) Interior tack (Note: Machine or Hand Tacked)
InteriorTack
J4-5b Hidden Placket-Attached; Crackstitch
Interior Construction (before Facing set to Front)
Wearer's RightFront - Body
Inside View Weaerer's Right
Outside ViewWearer's Left
Interlining
Outside ViewWearer's Right
Wearer's Right Wearer's Left
J4-6 Top Applied Placket
Bottom of Placket
J4-7 Mock Hidden Placket
Outside View Wearer's Right
Step 1 Step 2Finished
Outside View Wearer's Left
Bottom of Placket
Wearer's Right - Step 1 Wearer's LeftWearer's Right - Step 2
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 36 November 2009
KISSING CLOSURES:
J4-8a Kissing Front - w/ Frog Closure
Outside ViewWearer's Left
Note: See Spec Pkg for* Frog Type* Frog & Button Placement
Wearer's Left Front Inside Extension J4-8b Kissing Front - Right Front Loop; Wearer's Left Inside Extension
Outside View Wearer's Right Outside View
Wearer's LeftWearer's Left
Wearer's Right
Inside View
Note: See Spec Pkg for* Loop Type* Loop & Button Placement
Inside Placket
Wearer's RightOutside View
Wearer's LeftOutside View Wearer's Right
Wearer's Left
J4-8c Kissing Front - Self Fold Placket Right Front Loop;
Inside View
Note: See Spec Pkg for* Loop Type* Loop & Button Placement
Wearer's Left Inside Extension
Outside View Wearer's Right
Outside View Wearer's Left Weaerr's
Left
J4-8d Kissing Front -Left Front Loop; Wearer's Right Front Inside Extension
Wearer's Right
Inside View
Note: See Spec Pkg for* Loop Type* Loop & Button Placement
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 37 November 2009
SLIT W/ MITERED CORNER:
Inside Garment
Lining LiningSe
am
Mitered Corner
A14-6 Slit w/Bendback Facing Mitered Corner - Lined
*See spec pkg for Hem Stitch
Outside Garment
Seam
A14-6a Slit - No Tack
*See spec pkg for Hem Stitch
SeamStitch-tack
Outside Garment
A14-6b Slit - Stitch Tack
*See spec pkg for Hem Stitch
Seam
Outside Garment
Bartack
A14-6c Slit - Bartack
Note:Note:
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 38 November 2009
WELT POCKETS: Note: • Sketch for construction only, not for Pocket shape / size. • Placement can be angled or horizontal. • Pocket can be with or without Topstitching. • See specification package.
Inside of Garment w/Facing
Baste closed w/ 1/2" open at each end
Tack to Princess seam allowance
Inside of Garment w/o Facing
J6-1 Welt Pocket - Angled; Inside View
J6-1a Welt Pocket - Angled w/o Topstitch
Outside of Garment
J6-1c Welt Pocket- Angled w/ Topstitch
Outside of Garment
Tack to Princess seam allowance
Baste closed w/ 1/2" open at each end
Inside of Garment w/o Face
J6-1 Welt Pocket - Horizontal; Inside View
Inside of Garment w/Facing
Outside of Garment
J6-1b Welt Pocket - Horizontal w/o Topstitch
Outside of Garment
J6-1d Welt Pocket - Horizontal w/ Topstitch
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 39 November 2009
CHEST POCKET: Note: • Sketch for construction only, not for Pocket shape / size. • Pocket with or without Topstitch. See Specification Package.
J6-1e Chest Pocket
Outside of Garment Inside of Garment
3" @ center
Base closed w/ 1/2" open at each end
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 40 November 2009
BESOM POCKETS: Note: • Sketch for construction only, not for Pocket shape / size. • Placement can be angled or horizontal. • Pocket can be with or without Topstitching. • See specification package.
Inside of Garment w/o Facing
Baste closed w/ 1/2" open at each end
Tack to Princess seam allowance
J6-3 Besom Pocket - Angled; Inside View
Inside of Garment w/Facing
J6-3a Besom Pocket - Angled w/o Topstitch
Outside of Garment
J6-3c Besom Pocket - Angled w/ Topstitch
Outside of Garment
J6-3 Besom Pocket - Horizontal; Inside View
Inside of Garment w/Facing
Tack to Princess seam allowance
Baste closed w/ 1/2" open at each end
Inside of Garment w/o Facing
Outside of Garment
J6-3b Besom Pocket - Horizontal w/o Topstitch
J6-3d Besom Pocket - Horizontal w/ Topstitch
Outside of Garment
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 41 November 2009
VERTICAL / ANGLED WELT OR BESOM POCKET: Note: • Sketch for construction only, not for Pocket shape / size. • Placement can be angled or horizontal. • Pocket can be with or without Topstitching. • See specification package.
Attach to Frt Facing Frt Edge w/ Lining Strip
Inside of Garment - Tack Option 1
Stitch Tack Closed w/ 1/2" Open at each ends
J6-2 Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled
Fron
t Edg
e
Stitch Tack under Facing
Inside of Garment - Tack Option 2J6-2 Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled
Stitch Tack Closed w/ 1/2" Open at each ends
Fron
t Edg
e
w/o Bartack
J6-2a Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; No Topstitch; w/o Bartack
Outside of Garment
Fron
t Edg
e
J6-2a Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; No Topstitch, w/Bartack
Outside of Garment
w/ Bartack
Fron
t Edg
e
w/o Bartack
Outside of Garment
J6-2b Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; w/ Topstitch; no Bartack
F ron
t Edg
e
J6-2b Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; w/ Topstitch & Bartack
Outside of Garment
w/ Bartack
Fron
t Edg
e
Outside of Garment
J6-4a Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; No Topstitch; w/o Bartack
w/o Bartack
Fron
t Edg
e
F ron
t Edg
e
J6-4a Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; No Topstitch; w/Bartack
Outside of Garment
w/o Bartack
Outside of Garment
J6-4b Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; w/ Topstitch; no Bartack
F ron
t Edg
e
w/ Bartack
Fron
t Edg
e
J6-4b Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; w/ Topstitch & Bartack
Outside of Garment
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 42 November 2009
VERTICAL “ONSEAM” POCKET:
J6-5a Vertical "Onseam" Pocket with Bendback / Extended Facing
Pock
et o
peni
ng
Outside of Garment
Top Pocket Bag
Opening
Bendback(see Spec Pkg for Facing width)
Edgestitch
Opening
Top Pocket Bag w/ Bendback Facing
Under Pocket Bag
Under Pocket Bag w/ Extension
Opening
Attached Facing w/ Backstitch or Topstitch(see Spec Pkg for Facing width)
Opening
Top Pocket Bag w/ Attached Facing
Edgestitch
Top Pocket Bag
J6-5b Vertical "Onseam" Pocket w/ Attached Facings
Outside of Garment
Pock
et o
peni
ng
Top Pocket Bag w/ Attached Facing
J6-5c Vertical "Onseam" Pocket with No Facing; Attached Pocket Bag
Pock
et o
peni
ng
Outside of Garment
Top Pocket Bag
Opening
Attached Pocket Bagw/ Backstitch
Opening
Top Pocket Bag w/ Bendback Facing
Under Pocket Bag
Under Pocket Bag w/ Extension
Attached Pocket Bagw/ Backstitch
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 43 November 2009
PATCH POCKETS: Note: • Sketch for construction only, not for Pocket shape / size. • Pocket can be with or without Topstitching. • See specification package.
Bluff Setting - Opening w/ Bendback Facing:
J6-6a Patch Pocket - Bendback Facing "Bluff" Setting w/o Topstitch
Seamed inside
Raw edge w/ or w/o Staystitch (see spec pkg)
1" Bendback Facing
* See Spec Pkg. for Facing Finish
Seamed inside
Raw edge w/ or w/o Staystitch (see spec pkg)
J6-6b Patch Pocket - Bendback Facing "Bluff" Setting w/ Topstitch
1" Bendback Facing
* See Spec Pkg. for Facing Finish
Bluff Setting - Opening w/ Attached Facing:
* 1" Attached Facing* Backstitch or Topstitched. See Spec Pkg
J6-6c Patch Pocket - Attached Facing "Bluff" Setting w/o Topstitch
Raw edge w/ or w/o Staystitch (see spec pkg)
Seamed inside
* See Spec Pkg. for Facing Finish
J6-6d Patch Pocket - Attached Facing "Bluff" Setting w/ Topstitch
* See Spec Pkg. for Facing Finish
Raw edge w/ or w/o Staystitch (see spec pkg)
Seamed inside
* 1" Attached Facing* Backstitch or Topstitched. See Spec Pkg
Topstitch setting:
Single Bendback
Overedge Finish -* See spec pkg
Topstitch to set Pocket
J6-7a Patch Pocket - Bendback Facing Topstitched Setting
Bendback Facing * See Spec Pkg. for
Facing Finish* See Spec Pkg. for Facing Finish
Topstitch to set Pocket
J6-7b Patch Pocket - Attached Facing Topstitched Setting
Single Bendback
Overedge Finish -* See spec pkg
* 1" Attached Facing* Backstitch or Topstitched. See Spec Pkg
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 44 November 2009
POCKET FLAP – WELT OR BESOM POCKET: • Flap Pocket can be angled or horizontal. • Flap can be with or without Topstitching (Backstitch edge as needed). • See specification package.
Under Flap:* Cut smaller than outer flap.* Cut on bias.
Under Flap Bias
J7-1a Angled Welt Pocket w/ Flap (no Topstitch at outer edge)
Flap Set above Welt Edge
Outside of Garment
Raw Edge Enclosed
Under Flap
J7-1a Angled Welt Pocket w/ Flap (Topstitch at outer edge)
Flap Set above Welt Edge
Outside of Garment
Raw Edge Enclosed
Under Flap
Outside of Garment
Flap set into Welt seam
Under Flap
J7-2a Angled Besom Pocket w/ Flap (no Topstitch at outer edge)
J7-2a Angled Besom Pocket w/ Flap (Topstitch at outer edge)
Flap set into Welt seam
Outside of Garment
Under Flap
Under Flap:* Cut smaller than outer flap.* Cut on bias.
UnderFlap
Bias
Flap Set above Welt Edge
J7-1b Horizontal Welt Pocket w/ FlapOutside of Garment
Under FlapRaw Edge Enclosed
J7-1b Horizontal Welt Pocket w/ Flap (Topstitch at outer edge)
Outside of Garment
Raw Edge Enclosed
Under Flap
Flap Set above Welt Edge
Outside of Garment
J7-2b Horizontal Besom Pocket w/ Flap
Flap set into Welt seam
Under Flap
J7-2b Horizontal Besom Pocket w/ Flap (Topstitch at outer edge)
Outside of Garment
Under Flap
Flap set into Welt seam
POCKET FLAP – Patch pocket:
• Flap Pocket can be with or without Topstitching (Backstitch edge as needed). • See specification package.
Raw Edge Enclosed
J7-3a Flap-Patch Pocket - No Topstitch; w/ Stitch-tack
Under Flap:Bias Stitch-tack
Under Flap:Bias
J7-3b Flap-Patch Pocket - No Topstitch; w/ Bartack
Raw Edge Enclosed
Bartack
J7-4a Flap-Patch Pocket-Topstitch w/ Stitch-tack
Raw Edge Enclosed
Stitch Tack
Under Flap:Bias
Raw Edge Enclosed
J7-4b Flap-Patch Pocket- Topstitch w/ Bartack
Under Flap:Bias
Bartack
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 45 November 2009
PLEATS: Inverted Pleat
A3-1 Inverted Pleat
Edgestitch to Control Pleat
Inside View
Outside View
Box Pleat
A3-2 Box Pleat
Outside View
Inverted Pleat / Box Pleat Tacked for Shipping:
A3-5 Inverted Pleat "X" Tack for Shipping
Pintuck
A3-4 Pintuck
Knife / Single Side Pleat
A3-3 Knife Pleat / Single Side Pleat A3-3 Knife Pleat / Single Side Pleat
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 46 November 2009
BINDING & PIPING FINISHES:
Folded
A6-1 Full Clean Finish w/Edgestitch
A9-3 Piped Edge w/ or w/o Filler
Outside ofGarment
Inside of Garment
Backstitch
Edge finished w/ Facing OR Lining
Piping w/ or w/o Filler
Note: No Backstitch if edge is Topstitched
BUTTONHOLES:
A10-4a Bound Buttonhole - Clean Finish
Topside Underside(looks same as Topside)
Underside
(Straight Buttonhole)Topside
A10-4b Bound Buttonhole - Backed w/ Machine Buttonhole
A10-4c Bound Buttonhole - Edgestitched
Topside Underside(looks same as Topside)
A10-4d Bound Buttonhole - Leather
Topside Underside
A10-1 Keyhole Buttonhole w/Bartack at end
Bartack
w/ or w/o Gimp Filler (* See Spec pkg Trim)
A10-2 Keyhole Buttonhole w/ Fishtail End
w/ or w/o Gimp(* See Spec pkg Trim)
A10-3 Regular/Straight Buttonhole
A10-5a On-Seam Buttonhole - Horizontal
Seam
A10-5b On-Seam Buttonhole - Vertical
Seam
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 47 November 2009
ZIPPER FRONT CLOSURES:
A4-1b Lapped Zipper Setting - Open Bottom
See Spec Pkg for Zipper Finish
A4-2b Kissing Zipper Setting - Open Bottom
See Spec Pkg for Zipper Finish
A4-3b Exposed Zipper Setting - Open Bottom
See Spec Pkg for Zipper Finish Open End
A4-4b Invisible Zipper Setting - Open Bottom
* See Spec Pkg for Front Facing
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 48 November 2009
ZIPPER TERMS: NOTE: • See specification package for “Right” for “Left” Zipper Pull. • Zipper illustrations are generic.
(A) Closed end - Normal type
(C) 2 Pulls - 2 Ended Closed
(B) 2 - Ended Closed
(D) 2 Pulls - 2 Open Ends
(D) 1 Pull Open End
Common Zipper Types
(A) Closed end - Invisible type
Sealed End
Sealed at Top
Tape Ends
Stringer
Cord
Bead
Bottom Stop
Slider
Chain
Pull
Teeth
Top Stops
Retainer
Separable Pin
Retainer Pin
OpenedTape Closed
Basic Zipper Construction Terms
Tape Width
Chain Width
Length of Fastener
Zipper Dimension Terms
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 49 November 2009
OTHER CLOSURES:
A10-6a Crochet Button Loop -Kissing Setting
A10-6b Crochet Button Loop - Open Setting
A10-7a Button Loop - Kissing Setting
A10-7b Button Loop - Open Setting
A10-7c Button Loop -Closed Setting
Top Side
Under side of Loop
A10-8 Folder Button Loop
A10-9 Decorative / Frog Closure
A11-1a Hook & Loop Eye A11-1b Hook & Straight Eye
A11-1c Hook & Loop
A11-2a Hook & Bar
a. Machine Set
* Note: Reinforce w/ Self or Interlining
A11-2b Hook & Bar
b. Hand Set
A11-3 Hook & Loop Tape
Hook Tape Loop Tape
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 50 November 2009
BELT LOOPS:
Press w/ Seam centered
A12-1a Tubular-Belt Loop
A12-1b Tubular-Belt Loop
Seam at edge.
A12-3 Folder Finish-Belt Loop
Top side Under side
A12-2 Coverstitched-Belt Loop
A12-4a Crochet Belt Loop/ Tear Drop (at seam)
Seam
A12-4c Crochet Belt Loop/ Tear Drop
A12-4d Crochet Belt OpenLoop (set in Seam)
(4) Reverse Bendback
(5) Outside Stitch-tack
(3) Inside Stitch-tack
(2) Reverse Bendback(1) Stitch-tack
A12-5 Clean Finish Top & Bottom Outside Stitch-tack @ Top
(4) Reverse Bendback
(5) Inside Stitch-tack
(3) Inside Stitch-tack
(2) Reverse Bendback(1) Stitch-tack
A12-6 Clean Finish Top & Bottom Inside Stitch-tack
A12-7 Clean Finish @ Bottom; Single Bendback @ Top w/Bartack
(4) Bartack(3) Single Bendback
(2) Reverse Bendback(1) Stitch-tack
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 51 November 2009
DECORATIVE STITCHES:
DST-1 Pearl Stitch
Inside Garment
Pearl Stitch
Outside Garment
*Overedge stitch w/ 18-26 Stitches per Inch, depending on finish needed.DST-2 Shell Stitch
Outside Garment
*Overedge stitch to form thread around edge in "Shell" shape.
Shell Stitch
Inside Garment
* Overedge stitch formation at raw edge uniformly stretched to have wavy Lettuce leaf edge. * See spec pkg for stitch width & density.
Outside Garment
DST-3 Lettuce Edge Stitch
Lettuce Edge Surging Stitch
Inside Garment
DST-4 Picot Stitch
Outside Garment
* Two thread multi-step Chainstitch formed just off edge.
Picot Stitch
DST-5 2-Needle Fagoting*Decorative Chainstitch between two finished edges. *See Spec Pkg for Picot Stitch Width.
Two Needle Fagoting
DTS-6 Pick Stitch*See Spc Pkg for Stitch Length and Spacing.
* Stitch Length and Spacing may be even or uneven.
Pick Stitch - Stitch through upper ply only.
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Jackets - Lined 52 November 2009
DECORATIVE STITCHES (cont.):
DST-7 Saddle Stitch
* Stitch Length and Spacing are equal size.
* See Spec Pkg for Stitch per Inch (SPI).
Saddle Stitch - Stitch through all layers.
* Overedge stitch.* See Spec Pkg for specific Stitches per Inch (SPI) and Stitch Width.
Outside Garment
DST-8 Blanket Stitch
Blanket Stitch
Inside Garment
Step 2 - Topside Step 2 - Underside
Seam at top of tuck
Double Needle w/ Narrow Zig-Zag at Underside * closes fold * creates tuck
* See Spec Pkg for Tuck Height
Seam at top of tuck
Step 1- Topside Step 1 - Underside
DTS-9 Air Tucking