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N T TR b T

STRAT E D

Perfecting GlazdChickn

BBQ Por ChopsNew Indoor Skillet Recip

Best Ways to CoCommon Vegetab

Cat Iron v.Nontc

Can Cast Iron Do It All?

Ratng PameanAre Italian Cheee Really Be

Ultimate Ae TrFla Crust, Caramelized Appes

Beef-Veetae SuBig Flavor, Quick Cookg

Gre tuffe Prk L

Chcen k MBetter ctt Gncch

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cooks iu s t r te d c o m

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etember tber

2 Notes from Readers

4 Quick Tips

6 Skillet-Barbecued Pork ChopsT so slswt d vo of glld okos s to gt o outdoo gll wtd tobg tt vo dooskg t sokss but

losg t sok Y J NJ AT

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I 0 Grilled Stuffed Pork Loinu ost stug woks fo t sd out to obtdss l ok Y ATH W CAR

12 Introducing Rcotta nocchiTs lgt Flot ds s t gt ous of ottogo ut vg t gt txtu qus ot s ottfootto sw

Y A ND R A W U

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28 Is iscosin Parmesan aPlayer?Do gg t w lk d slt ott lly tt?Y A cAN U

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TH ROA TAK

e woods in our Verot town are o te unexpeted 've stbed arossak bears, oyotes, a rabid raoon hiding in a hoow ee trunk, a yong and

ngy b oose, a bobat so arge tougtwas a ontain ion, a gossy bak porpinet a ae ike a onkey, and one, during deerason, a awn that waked rigt up, stared eown, and ten sowy oved on aer it had ae 've see n a arge brown rabbit up a 0-otwide strea witot getting its eet wet, ange oat over y ead wie was standing one top o Bear o1tain, and a red- taied awkun itse out o a ig per and soar down toat one o our ode Isand eds

O orse, tere are te untin g stories Nates about te tie e shot two trkeys on test day o te season with st one s ota uri

s seond trkey peeked arond a tree at exatye wrong oent nd te tie e was sittinga tree stand dring deer season and wated a

rge oyote trak is ather, To, throg teow nd te tie t1at To was rabbit ntingd wated is beage rn in ires oowingbbit sent wie, a te tie, te rabbit wasting pb in the idde o te ation on aee stp, enoying te show oe peope doe pretty stupid tings in te woods, ssooting a oose out o season wie being

ot teseves on videotape (The udge adgood aug) nd te a-wits wo ike toise bak roads in te ea ry oing or eveningd soot ro teir pikps Te gae wardenthes soe o te by using is ehaniaer, Babi, wi he paes strategiay neare road One out-o-towner, as e was beingrested, kept insisting that e ad sot a reaur-pointer and dea nded te arassOn a ew oasions, was in t1e woods have ed

e to enounters wit deat1ike t1e sear or aeigbor wo ad a eart attak we oong orose beeersand ten, wie attending a tee

y rok onert near eate in 970, I saw a kid

p e sti and beaed white out a strea nd a ew years bak,t1e resue squad as aed in ora partiary ba tkey ning aident- unter id inthe bses and e trkey swhie is partner sng aronand gave hi bt1 arres

Bt , nay, we ound thead and a sa setteeouses, the roo ties teo pink pepperorns anont yards sady oestiavation ad qiky tto rotine, and now it waa question o reaing oudestination We ited Te ongest wak I ave ever

take was a reent ike trougte Pyreees wit y wie,drienne e ike was abteigt ies, ost it spent on4,000oot ridgins on te

Christopher Kimball

wit a drunk soobus and ended up in town, wensoned in a sa atwo braing, sigty bitter

border between rae and pain ound id

day and aer a series o wrong ts, we ended upat te e nd o te trai in a dark orst nd wit itteiea were we were on te ap (Te tor opany ad suggeste bringing a asit, wiste,ad opass; a tree were e id to akeroo or bread, arterie, and te oa wine )er ibing a bder or a view, disoveredtat we were at t1e ead o a steep ontain ravineored on t\o sides by ig roky ridge ines anded in betwee wit streas, gorges, and thikgoin ies i te istane, see a ewoses t was at ast or ors o strenuos ik-ing bak to our starting point, so we arhed onTen i t darkee an started to rain

er an o pain progress oowing watust have been \id boar pat1, drenne naysaid, " Let's w te river bak t iviization, areark akin to "se seat usions r otationWit1out better ptions, we ay ade it downto t1e river, on a trai, ost t1e trai, ended upat an ipassabe grge, retraed ou steps, onda parae iver, owed tat, reoined t1e originariver, sogged t g tt or a ie or so, andten piked p a trai tat seeed proising twas idae but dark deep i te gorge, teorest ore ragge ad prieva tn here in NewEngand, as i its istory were pied on top o itse,

waiting patiety er our tired otsteps

asked a oa to po int outwe were on te ap e ooked perpexed

ew seonds and then, in a oent o enient, rned it over and ond t1e spot oter side We were a good 1 ies rointended destination

obert Frost knew a ot abot being ote deep ongin to esape ro eart1 ost a oent n his ost aous poeose, as drienne and did by ane, twith the " better a i B eause it wasand wanted wear Frost knew tat ie a" patess wood Were yor ae burtkes wit te obwebs Broken aross one eye is weeping Fro a twig's aving aross it open e onged to get away

te undane, to reah toward eaven oroent and ten oe bak again, renewte two o us eerged oddy exhiarated rowoods tat day in the Pyrenees, reete osing ines o Frost's "B irhes

Earth's the rht plae fr lve: dn't knw where t's lkely t g ettePd lke tg y lng a rh tree,And l lak ranhes up a snw-whte Tward heaven, tll the tree uld ear nBut dpped ts tp and set e dn aganat wuld e gd th gng and ng

One uld d wrse than e a wnger f

, , M M: .oosistated. om

OOK' UT Magazie

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F D

to Stck

en e butter cooies hve the hrdeste getting decortng sugr or sprines to stic

te tops. Cn you oer soe tips?EE LA ROA

ALANY NY

ipy dusting decorting sugr or sprnes top o cooies prior to bing wi not wor:ost o the grnues wi o by the tme theoies re reoved ro the bing sheet. oist surce is necessry to hep bind te sugrte retvey dry dough.We ppied sever derent quidswteraten egg cooing spry nd corn syrpto

e tops o butter cooies beore sprining thet n even yer o coored sugr to nd outich ws the be st dhesive. e reoving theoies ro the oven nd owing the to coo

e turned the upside down nd shoo thehty to guge how we the sugr stuc. Theter egg nd cooing spry did n equyod job; negigibe ount o sugr e oese cooies. The sugr so stuc to the cooesushed wth corn syrup but te tops o theseoies bece uncceptby drer crunchierd sweeter.We recoend the esiest ethod o :ghty brush the tops o unbed butter cooies

th wter beore ppying decortions.

ST ICKY S ITUATIONo preven prinke from fai ng o ef), bruh cookie

wih waer hen e coae a bae righ)

aue oehere soud I store botte o soy sauce onces open: in the pntry or in he rerigertor?

ESTHER KANG

HIAGO IL

oy suce is erented iqid de roybeans nd rosted wet. Te bes or soeands suggest reigeratng the botte e r openg and oters have no storge inortion t .though soy sauce wi not cy spoi i et t roo tepertureit contins high eves

ANR A W U

o st sugr nd cid tt provide protectionginst bcteri growtwe wondered i its

vor woud deteriorte over tie.To nd out we stored our recoended

brnds o soy suce Lee Ku Kee Tbetopoy uce nd Ohswa N hoyu Orgnicnpsteurize oy auce two wys in coo drycupbord nd in the rerigertor. ter onthd pssed we hed bind tsting o he soysauces served with steed white rice. The resuts?Tasters strined to detect dierences nd o thespes were deeed stisctory. Wondering idditiona storge tie woud prove detrienwe seed te bottes bc up wited or oreonhs then tsted the soy suces agin. Tsters

ound both spes o te psteurized Lee KuKee soy suce copetey cceptb e bu t it ws adierent story or the unpsteurzed Ohsw soysuce whch hd ten on erented soewhatshy vor er sitting in cupbord or severaonths. The rerigerted spe hd sweetereower proe.

Our concusion? t doesnt hurt to reigertepsteurized soy suce (nd ost brnds repasteurized ) but it isnt necessry. npsteuriedsoy suce on the other hnd shoud bererigerted.

Storing AnchoviesWhenever open tin o nchovies to use in recipe end up wit a ot oeovers. Whts thebest wy o store te ?

A ASS

TORON TO ONTARIO

ness you pn on ing Cesr sdnchovy pizz nd spghetti puttnesc onhe se dy youd be hrd-pressed to use upan entire tin o nchovies withou hving tostore the. To nd te bes etd or eepngnchoves we stored eovers ree wys: covered wit extr-virgin oive oi nd rerigered

n n irtigh continer; covered wit oshersat and rerigerated in an irtight container;nd coied up individuy rozen on ptetrnserred to ziper-oc bg n d rerned tote reezer.

er two wees we reoved the nchoviesro the oive oi; brshed rinsed nd ptteddry the ncovies tht were covered in st;nd derosted te nchovies tht hd been rozen. Next we tsted these sapes pin and iaesar sad dressing; we a so incu ded reshyopened cn o nchovies in the ineup . Theony uncceptbe s were those tht hd been

C K' U R

covered in osher st. insing a etheir vor nd those es tt dntdequtey rnse d were un cceptby sy

The sh storedin oive oi hdvor tht wasnery as good ste reshy openedcn but diggingthe ets out othe prtiy conge ed oi ndboting o theexcess ws bit o hsse. The ro-

zen-nd-thwed GO T A NC O V ES n c h ov ie s s o fover can b e coie u ptsted nery s frozen in a zippero ck bgood s the reshets nd were uch esier to hnde. next tie you hve eover ncovies eis the wy to go .

Freezin Pizza oughve seen pizza dough or se t the superbut preer to e y own. Cn hoepizz dough be rozen?

A I

SEATE

To nswer your question we mde ourpizz dough recipe (y/une 995)waes enough or two pizz crustsnd it t two stges: ieditey er ixindough nd er owing the dough torse. ter we shped he dough into we wrpped te in pstic wrp cotednonstic cooing spy pced the in zoc bgs nd roze the. ew dys tethwed both doughs on he counertop the unrisen dough rise or he two hours ed in the recipe . Next we s ape bot bo doughin ddition to eshy de nd rerigerated dogh ro the superartopped the wih toto suce nd ozzcheese nd bed the t 500 degrees inutes.

Tsted side by side one o h e ozen vews nery s good s the reshy de dThe dough tht hd been ozen er risinesy to shpe (the guten strnds hd hd tie to rex) crisp on the outside chewy iidde and rsh-tsting. The dogh thbeen rozen beore rising on the oher handtter nd sighy tough The reezing step

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WHAT S T?

I fod hi iem gge le d bogh i

wiho kowig wh i ed for C n o

hel p me igre i o?

JANNE LEW

TE M P LE CT Y CA LF.

The gdge o bogh i 940er enmeled wood dmel i fer from Wheeling W Thi 1 3 ich

device w ed id for pickig p hofromheove

pie ple d cke pn, providig beer grip h ove

mi cld hd d redc ig he rik of b rn

he vintae Pin ifter i ac t fr picn p ht

pie an cae

The inrcio bookle o he ool beig o imple

h " child c opee i nd i i indeed cich o e

To em plo e i n fer h old h e hdle d i i o

h he free rm ope (on e rm remi io) H ook

he rm dereh he rim of he cke p or pie ple nd

lif he p p Th e weigh of he pie or cke wil l keep he

i fer i pl ce dee i rferred o of he ove

d oo cooli ng rck To remove he lifer imp l wi he

hndle l ighl o open he rm bck p

iled any o te yeast cells, resulting i n a paraly arrested rise and ackluster crust. Finally, teorebougt pizza doug received surprisinglyood ratings ro tasters.

you ave extra dough you'd like o keepround or later, be sure to let it rise lly beoreeezig. Te best way to derost doug is tot it sit on te countertop or a couple o oursr overnigt in te rerigeraor. (Tawing pizzaoug in a icrowave or low oven isn't reco

ended as it wi dry te doug out.) And orstinute pizza cravings, storebougt rerigerted doug is an entirely acceptable option.

Dried Musrms

ecipes at call or dried usroos oenequire soakig te usroos beore use. Foroups, isn't it ne to trow in te dried usoos as is, witout te extra step o soaking?

SUSANNA LAASONEN

RCHOND, CALF.

oaking dried usroos beore cookingit te serves two purposes: First, t elps

elease dirt tat can get stuck between te gills

en te usroos are dried (rinsing tender cold running water doesn't always reovel o te dirt) . econd, i you want to use dried

usroos in inced or, tey oten requireoaking beore tey can be propery copped.is is especialy true wi potent dried porcini

usroos, wic are hardly ever used in terge slices in wic tey are sold. Tereore,e don't recoend adding dried, unsoaked

usroos to any recipe, including soup. Beure to save te lavorl soaking liquid; onceltered, it can be used to add usroo es senceo te recipe.

Best Wat Bil Ptatess it iportan to start wit cod water wenboiling potatoes?

NANCY HANN

NDANAPOLS, ND.

any cookbook autors suggest starting potatoes in cold, rater tan boiling, water. Te teory:Because potatoes take a we to cook, tl1eir exteriors tend to becoe usy by t1e tie theirinteriors cook troug. tarting te potatoes inold water allows t1eir teperature to gradually increase, prevening excess soening o teexterior. We put t1e teory to e test by preparing plain wole peeled boiled potatoes, asedpotatoes ( ade wit wole peeled potatoes tatwere boiled) , and potato saad (ade wit potatoestat were peeled and cut into %inc cubes beoreboiling) bot waysstarted in boiling water andkept at a sier and started in cold water tat wasbrought to a oi and owered to a sierto seei one etod was indeed better an te oer.

Once te cubed potato pieces were cooled andtossed wit1 ayonaise and seasonngs or tepotato salad ad t1e wole potatoes were peeled,

pressed troug a ricer, and cobied wit aland al ad eted utter or te ased potatoes, no diereces between te two saplescould be deteted. n te case of tl1e plain boiledwole potatos, we did notice tl1at te saplesstarted in boiing water were soer on te exterior tan on te interior. Tese boied potatoesweren't terrible, but tey weren't as good as teones started in co d water.

n addition to sligtly better texture in onetest, te potatoes started in cold water were readya ew inutes earlier. Yes, te potatoes addedto boiling water spent less tie i te pot, but

SEI'MB [ OilE 2 7

we ad to wait or te water to boil beocould cook te potatoes. Te botto lie starting te potatoes in cold watr yieds setter results in soe appicatios and is aster.

Refeshing Herbs've eard t1at it's better to reres wited

epid water rater than in cod water. s tiT M PAERDEE

ter purposely letting several buncparsley, cilantro, and int sit in te reiuntil tey becae lip, sorryooking veo teir orer selves, we tried bringinerbs back to lie by soaking te in oaking erbs in water restores the turgosure (te pressure o te cell contents agaicel wall) , causing the to beco e rerdeydrated cells plup up. Tis gives tea reser look and an iproved texture, a

teporarily.We divided eac o te erbs into

saller bunces, lopped o te ste endsoaked te in tepid and cold water. inut es, we reoved te erbs ro tespun t e dry in a salad spinner, and cote wit te unsoaked saples.

All o t e reresed saples looked notreser tan te originas, but soe were etter tan te oters: Te erbs soaked idard cold tap water ad perked up signiand looked nearly as good as res. Tesoaked in tepid water reained airy drooresued wilting a ew inutes aer beingout o te water. Te tepid water was lestive tan t e cold water because te enzycause te breakdown o te cel walls bore active as the teperature rises.

We wondered i soaking te erbs in ion o salt water or sugar water igt yeven better resut. Neiter worked anytan te plain coldwater soaking. n aclooked even ore wited . o to reuvenatherbs, siply tr te stes and soak t1 inutes i n cold water.

Q U I C K R EJ U V E N AT I O N g a w g a g

wa 0

U YU QU W w ovd nty on-y subscon fo c w n nquy n, ddss nd dyt on nub fo Rds, ooks Iusd P Box 47589 BMA 2447 o o nosods@csskc

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n d U s We wi provide a omplimentar oneear subsripton for eah tip we print Send our ti p, name, an d adress touik ips, ooks ustrated P.O. Box7058, Brookine, MA027, or to quiktips@ameriastestkihenom

O O K U R E

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afe hle HadligMin cing freh chile cn led o hndb h l for hor Tired of fieinger, llen Won of Scrmeno,Clif. fon d proecion in grer nd zipperl ock bg U ing he bg glove h old he chil e nd gre i longhe rce of box or Mi cropneger Thi mehod doen llow oo remove he eed o o will g emximm he from ch ile prepredhi w.

mpopt dFidig hi msef shor of ids

o fi his skies ad sau

as, G eg Evas of Jeric ho,NY ceaed a cever sadi. Cove a slae scree

wih o layes of alum ium

foi , he ace i o o of

the ski e.

Makeshft ifte

leag ad DygMshoosSome baches of mus hooms areso di ha a coh wo' ade

uaey cea hem . Washig he

mus hooms is a m us, as is dyig

hem . Riga iehoefe of Boise,

daho, u s ou he saad sie

o eom boh a sks.

Uing mll finemeh riner o i everl c p of or o r confecioner grofen rel in powde me. Hnn Colemn of oomc , M d , keep her workpce clen wih he h elp of plic wrp nd rbber bn d.

I

I lce mll fine- meh iner over mll bowl o preven i from ippi ng il lhe iner wih or or confecione gr, cover wi h plic wrp, nd ec rewih rbber bnd2 . Shke he ifer over he bowl o r deer

2 .

Pace he mush ooms ia saad sie baske ad

say wih wae ui he

di is emoved.

2 . Qu cky lace h e baske

io he salad sie ad

s he mu shooms d y.

PowdeFee hoo lateWhen chop ped in o chn k for cookie or br, c hocole ofen her,leving behi nd hving nd powder.Todd Nl of Blimore M d , ehi mic rowve o olve he prob lem .

2.

lce e choc ole br on microwvefe ple nd microwveon he lowe eing for bo onemin e, rni ng he chocole hlhrogh . When he chocole ofennd begin o mel he corner,remove i from he mic rowve ( f hechoco le br i ve hic k, i kelonger o ofen )2 . lce h e wm chocole on cing bord nd chop i ino ch nk

SF F ,\ BF b 0 C lF R : 7

Dsposable egetablebbeidin g herelf in kiche n wihovegeble crbbe r, Crol Alexnof Chrloevil le , V , deigned homemde bie-

old n em p perfored oniocir bg o fom compc hhen ecre i wih rbber bnd

2 . U e he crbber o clen vegble n der cool rn ni ng wer, hdicrd he crbber.

Pttg lvesThe mo s com mo way o rem

is fom oives wih ou a oi

ie is o smas h hem o a c

ig boad. Maci Abbrech of

We esey, Mass., came u wia moe eegaad equaly

efeciveaeaive. Pace a

fue us ide dow o he

wok suace Stad oe

ed of he oive ohe sou ad essdow, aowighe i o fal hough he

fue.

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kiet-Barbecued ork hopsThe smo, sal-sweet, charred favor of griled pork chops is ea to get on an oudoorill We waned o bring tat avor indoorskeeping te sokiness bt loin e so

o enjoy the charred, salty-sweetavor of grilled pork chops

coated with spicy barbecuesauce i the offseaso, I have

o options: go to a restaurat wth adoor grill or attempt to make them iy own kitche. Getting smok avoro the chops is almost assred wheokg over a live re outdoors. Backide, it ca be more elusive.

bbg t In

3 B Y J K E J AT

e rst order of busiess was to nd

wa of givig the pork a ce, evelyarred surface without overcookig therior I tried searng the chops i azig hot skillet ad the trig the

at way dow oce tey developedgood crust, a method I've used tood effect with steak ad lamb chops.de from the fact that ths techique

ed the test kitcen with billowigoke ad spattered oil, the pork ended

strigy by he time a well-charredst had developed. The problem? Porkops are leaer than steaks and lambops ad threfore more proe to dry

Dobl e-earing creae a charred, gri l l - ike cr on pork chop

g out. Brinig improved matters a bit, but is clear that my techiqe was goig to eed arhal. Sce I've successy cooked charred,cy pork chops o a otdoor grill, I woderedat was so dieret about cookig i a skilt.For one thig, a piece of meat elevated above

e heat sorce on a grill does't remain i contact

sHoPP, N : Wh's n he Pckge?

wit h he jices released durig coog. I a pa,pork chops end up simmerig in their ow jices,

which lowers te temperature of he cookig sr

face, eadig to meat that overcooks before it cabrow properly. If I coudn't get the pork itseto char, why ot add another eemet that wodchar istead? I realized that there was already a

Given he n mbe r of chop we wen hrogh o develop hi recipe, we hogh p rchaing "famil ize pack of

pork chop wod be he logica cho ice, b we n ino ome npl ea pie a he boom of he pacge

LO O KS L I KE AGO O D VA LU E

h t lgd utwr wht th

H I D D E N S U R P R S E Sh h thy dt wt yut grty d uvy

uthd

BST BETCh l r g wh hth t d g y

yu wt yu yg r

C S I U S R

outdoor techiqe that woud accomplishexact goathe dry spice rb.

hough standard fare for a gril, a spice r

rarel appied to meat cooked i a skiethot skiet, the rb (which darkes more retha the pork proteis) doesn't jst char, it bes But by starig with medim heat rtha high, I foud I cold et he spice rbwhie the pork cooked at a getler pace, wreslted i chops that were perectly cooked

isid ad ot. Lowerig the heat serdipit

solved my smok kit hen problem, as well.Smokg th SacI trned my attetio to the barbece sStartig with the requisite ketchp ad mses, I ran through a battery o taste testsof Worcestershire sace ad Djo mstardthe sauce complexiy ad heat, ad oocider viegar added a pugent kic. A spoof brow sgar heped meow ou and be

sharper avors. I gured a couple of teaspoomy dry spice rub added to my sace coldimprove its avor. asters cormed my h

Athough my sauce was ow balaced, I eeded more outdoor avor. Without te bof a live re with smolderig hickory chps, ony oe place to tur: liqid smoke. I thktchen, we geerally sh articial or sy

igrediets, so I was peased to ear thauid smoke is a compete atra produc"Smoke i te Water, page 0) . All suspi

were laid to rest whe a batch of sauce to wI had srreptitiosly added a teaspoo of lsmoke swpt the ext blid tastig. The kkeepig liqud smoke palaable is moderatio

Now I had my charred pork ad my smsauce, bt I lso had a problem I had bee i

g someig every good odoor cook khe sauce is ot merey an accompaiment tmeati's a essential part of e cookig proI had bee treaig he chops ad he sauce a

discrete elemets ather than parts of he ent, applig th sace oy aer te meabee ly cooed. O a otdoor grll, he caramelizes ad iteses, lacqerig the choa sticky glaze. Cold I re-creat his process ostovetop wtout ruig my pas ad splatthot barbece sace over the kitchen?

rshig the sace directly oto the cwhile ey were still i the pa produced a

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9/36

A A G A N I L D I N G O T D O O R L AV O R O N TH E S T OV E T O P

I A PPLY R U B 2 A D D S M O K E SEA R O PS B R U S A N D S E A R

rnt ess and a stovetop splatteredit sace . What i instead o bring

ng te sace to the pork, I broghthe pork to the sace? I cooked p aew batch o chops, this tme remov

ng them om the pan a ew mintes earl. er taserring the pokhops to a baking sheet, I brshed

hem with a thin coat o barbeceace and wiped ot the skillet socold sh cooking wth a clea,ot srace. en the pork chopszzled vigorosly as they went back

nto the ot pn or their second se,y hopes were high.

Afer brin ing ch ps ca bhsides wih d spice rb p essing gen adhere

bi ne sace ingedi ens ace chps in skil le an d dn Reve chps fr pan bin c d ing easpn f li q id ve he n il chared black wih sace and sear agaske. sps develp lacqer sace n he ch

I lipped the chops and saw thathe sace had redced to a sticy,mok, caramelized gl aze that rmly adheed tohe meat. erved with he remaining edcedace, tese skilet-barbeced pok chops with ab-sticking sace ally tasted like the real deal.

S K I L L E T- B A R B E C U E D P O R K C H O P SR 4

We preer natral to enhaced pork (pork that haseen injected with a salt soltio to increase moist ess and lavor) or this recipe, thogh ehancedork can be sed. I sig ehanced pork, skipe brining i step and add teaspoon salto the spice rb. Grate the onion on the largeoles o a box grater. In step 5, check yo chopser 3 intes. I yo don't hear a denite sizzlend the cops have not stared to bow o thenderside, increase the heat to medim-high adontine cooking as directed (ollow indicatedeperatres or remainder o recipe) .

ok hops cup tble slt

bone-in pork rib chops to I inch thick8 to I 0 ounces ech trimmed o f excess ftsides sl it ccording to i lustrtion t right

see note boe

tespoons egetble oi l

pic uI tblespoon pprik

I tblespoon b ron sugr

2 tespoons ground corin dertespoon ground c umin

tespoon ground bc k pepper

auc cup ketchu p

tblespoons l ight or mild molsses2 tblespoons grted oni on see note boe

2 tbesp oons Worcestershi re suce

2 tblespoons Dijon mustrd

tblespoon cide r inegr

aoo o ugar

tespoon i quid smoke

. FOR THE PORK CHOPS: Dissove saltin 2 qats water i large bowl o contaier.bmerge chops i n brine, cover with pastic wrap,and rerigerate or 30 mintes.

2 . FOR THE SPICE RUB: Combine igedients

in small bowl. Measre 2 teaspoons mixtre itomedim bowl and set aside or sace. Transerreainng spice rb to pi e plate or lrge plate.

3 . FOR THE SAUCE: Whisk ingredients i

H N Q U S E A R I N G C H O P SGeing prk chps lie la and ck even

reqires w siple echniq es

P R O B L E : k chps bckle dg cking

S O L U I O N : C sls ab 2 iches apa

hgh fa and cnnecve sse

P R O B L E : k chps dn ' in pa n

S O L U I O N : Arange pk chp s in pi whee pa

e wih i ps f ribs pining ward edge f pan

S P M B R ( B R 2 7

owl with reserved spice mitre ; set asid4 . TO COOK CHOPS: Remove chop

brine and pat dy with paper towels. Coasides o chops with spice rb, pressing geb adheres. Pat chops to remove exce

discad excess rb.5. Heat tablespoon oil in 2-inc

ottomed non stick skillet over medi est smoking. Folowing ilstation belowchops in skilet in pinwheel ormation ; coochared i spots, 5 to 8 mintes. Flip chocotie to cook til second side is brad charred and center o chop registedegrees on instat- ead themometer, 4 totes Remove skille t rom heat a d transeto clea plate o bakig sheet. ightly brside o each chop with 2 eas poons sace .

6. Wipe ot pa with paper towels adto medim heat. Add emaiing teaspod heat ntil jst smoking. Add chops sace-side down, and cook witt movinsace has carameized and c harred in spots mite. Whie cooking, lightly brsh to each chop with 2 t easpoons sace . Trnnd cook ntil secod side is charred anmeliz ed and cene o chops registers 40 don instant-ead temometer, to mi

7 Tanser chops back to plate or baintent with oil, and let rest 5 mintes. Itemperate shold rise to abot 45 dMeanwhile, add emaining sace to pan anscaping pan bottom, ntil thickened to k

ike consistency and edced to cp, mites. Bsh each chop wth tabledced sace and serve imediately, pemaining sace at table .

l COOK'S L IVE rii a l Tes Kic hen Viw ww . c o o k s i u s a e d c o m

R E C I P E I N 6 0 S E C O N D S

SkieBarbeced rk hps

V I D E O T I P S

Wha kind f pk chps shld I b?o hd I b enhanced prk?

w can I prec nnsic k pans?

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Quicker Beef Vegetable SoupWe od a faster path to a fl-avored sop

G iven enogh meat, bones, and time,a great bee sop isn 't all th at hard tomake. r ch Bee tock and BeeNoodle op (anary/Febrary 8) are perect examples. I yo're willing toy 6 ponds o bee shi n meat and b ones andest z hors, yo can prodce a antasticck (and a lot o leover bee. Add anotherr or so, and yo have the ltimate bee sop.t I rarely have the time or energy to makes recipe.When I want bee and vegetab le sop in arry, I do what everyone else does open a

n o sop and complain abot its lacklstervor. Bt is this al-or-nothing approach reallycessary? Co ld I collapse the two separate stepsaking stock and then sop into one and

velop bold bee avor in st 60 mintes?To get my bearings, I prepared several traional recipes (inclding ors) along with andl o qick recipes. While every classicie yielded intense avor, the qick sopsre niormly disappointing and lacked anyl bee avor. Most sed either cb es o "stewata btcher's catchall or any relatively

nky scraps o beeor more tender ctse strip steak or rib eye. Althogh stew meat

ntribted a pleasan t bee avor, it was barelyewable aer simmering or hal an hor. Thep and rib eye, thogh more tender, tastedry and had a chalky, dry textre . My rst andst important goal was to nd a ct o meatt cold give a qick bee and vegetable sop sae textre and lavor as one that cookedhors .

Tal e ofwo Meats

eed nearl a dozen c of beef before eling on

oin ip eak a he be choice for or qic k op

re wa a d eci din g facor

O O D N S ender uts suh s stripek d rib ee beomeough ive nd hhen simmered in soup

LO O S A N D N D Ruts with oose struture

suh s sroin tip steksgive he impression tht themet hs ooked for hou rs

B Y A V P A Z M N O

A Bttr BrothI had ond a ct o bee that coqickly and had the right textre, bdidn't do mch or the rest o the sI wold have to start with storebobroth and engage in some serios doctoring.

I tried redcing the broth to oits avor, bt when simmered by it trned ltra-saly and made the so harsh that many tasters mistook canne d. I was getting nowhere ast.

hi hear op ake a mea and i read in j 60 mi ne

everal o the qick sop recip

ncovere d took an "everythingthe kitchen sink approach to the etabes. While these sops had avcertainly wasn't bee avor. I had blck sticking to the basics: onions,rots, and celerysae , yes; excitingvery. Then I remembered that mrecipes or Fench onion sop relmontains o caramelized oni ons tthe meaty avor o the bro th. The liand sgars released by the onions lerich brown coating on the pan, conting a dep th o avor that onionsply simmered in the broth can't at

When I tested this idea, tasters prthe added compexity and sweet

hat' s th B?Tasters prised the ll- apart tendernes s o the shinmeat in or original Bee Noodle op recipe , btit took hors to break down those togher msclebers into anything reotely tender. Aer pllingot my diagrams or bee cts, I tried to nd a cto meat that had the same textral characteristicso the shin meat bt wold cook in a qarter othe time. I cooked throgh varios cts, chasing the arond the cart as i it was a carosel. I discovered that t1se with a loose, opengraininclding hanger steak, an stek, sirlointip steak (or ap meat), and blade steakhad ashredded textre tat ooled tasters into tinkingI had cooked the eat or hours.

these or cts, sirloin tip steaks oeredt1e best balance o meaty avor and tenderness . Ist ha to be care how I ct the steaks. I t1emeat was ct too large, my sop seemed morelike a stew. sed too many sall pieces, itresembled a watery chili. For six generos bowlso sop, I needed ond o sirloin tip steaks ctinto -i nch pics.

K U R E

bt I still had a long way to go.It was time to do some reseach into what

stit tes bee avor. I discovered that bee is accentated by natraly occrring compocalled gltamates, which are ond in nmeoods (see "In earch o Gltamates, pagike salt, gltamates stimlate receptors ontonge, making ood taste richer and meMshrooms, it trns ot, are high in gltamand or that reason are o en paired with (orsbstitted or) ee in many dishes. hinthis might help, I prepared sops with wbtton, portobello, cremini, and porcini mrooms. Portobellos impated an overly mavor, and earthy porcinis overwhelmed anyavor I had already developed. Utilitarian wbttons were K bt a bit bland . Cremini mrooms were perect, providing msroom insity withot being obtrsive.

I wondered what other igredients high intamates cold do . Worcestershire sace, Parcheese rinds, and miso paste competed withbeeness o the dish. essintense tomato pand red wine boosted the sop's meay n

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H N Q U H E LAV O R B A S E B E I N S

Before e beef i dded o e po cree flvor

be b browning copped onion nd cremini

mroom. Sir freqenl ni e onion re

rel brown nd drk bi form on e pn boom

on orc i proce or o wil l rob or

o p o f flvor.

secill we bwed e oto ste withhe et d ten deglzed the crelized pnripigs with the red wine .

hough so suce is esecill high in glutes fered it ight overower the soup.

But to y surrise it enhced the beef lvor. eebered too tht so suce is test ktchenvorite for quic k rides. Like brie the sltn soy suce difses into the et llowing thendividul uscle bers to reti oisture whileoog. Whe rinted the beef cues withoy suce for just 5 ites tsters coentedn the iproved lvor of the et nd lso its

oer teture.

Sou Bs to G l now replicted the beef vor of longmm os but ot the outh-cotig rch

ess. hs cn ony be ceed whe collge theough proteins in the et nd bones breksown ito geli. Could chet d just ddwdere e n? A bespoo o geltioee co wter d stirred into the ishedou rovided the viscosty of trditionl broths.

his ws likel nsh to recie tht ctd up to soups ht tke hours to cook

Bui d ng Mea Favor Qu icklyee for gme-ric ingredi en booed m e flvor

n or qick op.

M U S R O O M SSauted remini mush

ooms begin to buid favor.

TO MTO PSTEhik tomato pastecaramel ies in the pot to

reate more favor

B E E F A N D V E G E TA B E S O U P

S ER VE S 6

Choose whoe siroi t s eks over oes hhve be cut ito sl ieces for sir-ies. fsirloi ti steks re unvibe sustitute bldeor lk stek reovig hrd griste or ecessft. utto usroos cn be used i pce of thecreini ushroos with soe trdeoff i lvor.Our preferred brnd of beef brot is Pcic. f

o like d cu of ozen pes frozen corn o rfrozen ct gree bens durig tle lst 5 inutesof cooking. For hertier soup dd 0 oucesof red-skied pottoes cut ito -inch pieces2 cps) during te st 5 inutes of cookig.

pound srlo n tp steaks trmmed o excess fat and

cut nto nch peces see note aboe

2 tablespoo ns soy sauceteaspoon egetable ol

pound cremn mushrooms stems trmm ed caps

wped clean an d quartered

large onon chopped medum about 1 cups

2 tablespoon s tomato pastemed um garl c cloe mnced or pressed throughgarlc press about I teaspoon

cup red wne

cups beef broth see note aboe

I cups lowsodum c hcken broth med um carrots peeled and cut nto nch

peces about 2 cups2 medu m celery rbs cut nto nch peces

about cupbay leaf

tablespoon u nflaored powdered gelatn

cup cold water

2 tablespoon s m nced fresh parsley leaesTable salt and groun d black pepp er

obine beef d so suce i ediubowl; set side for 5 inutes.

2. et oil in rge utch oven over edihigh het util jst sokng. dd ushroos ndoio ; cook stirrig reqentl ntil onion p iecesre brow nd drk bits for o pn ot to 8 to2 iutes. rnsfer vegetbes to bowl.

3 dd beef nd cook strring occsiolluntil liquid evportes d etstrts to brown 6 to 0 iutes.

SO Y SU C EStrips of beef are marinated

in soy saue before beingbrowned

R E D WI N ERed wine elps oosen

favorful browned b its fromthe pan bottom.

S E P r E B E R [y O C T O IJ F R 7

S C I E N C E :

I n Search of Gl tamates n grd ool we l l lerned we eperfor prim r e enion: l wee b

nd or. B w mke vor food

me? pnee pi profeor Kid

ked nwered i qeion in 909 we

exred wie ompond from e ginkelp ed o give pnee bro vor

me flvor even wen me i benbnce cl led glme been fon

imle e onge e recepor j

l nd gr. ked nmed e rel ing

ion mm wic rnle "del iciond "vor. Te Amerin cook inerpre

"fl l me nd "rob Nral l o

ring glme re fond in wide vrie

food ome of wic ed in m Beef

Vegeble Sop . D

G L U T M T E S I N C O M M O N F O O D S

Ti cle ow e m il l igm o f glme

00 gm (3 once

ooe 0Corn p 0

Tomoe 0Mroom 0

e 2ooGrpe J ice 58

nion 5 8Wn 658

So Se 1 , 9rmen Ceee 00

Komb S Kel 0

Add toto se a; , sttl until eds . Awie scrpng botto of pot with oodeto loose browed s d c k yo 2 iues.

4 dd bee broth cce brot cceler by lef d browed shrooonion; brig to boil. Reduce het to lowd sier unl vegets n et der 25 to 30 ites. While soup is sisprinkle geltin over cold wter d let st

5. When soup is i shed r offet. Rby lef. geltin itre d stir utpletely issolved. tir i prsley; djust seth slt d pepper d serve.

C O O K ' S L V rin T Ki n V . R E C P E N 6 0 S E C O N D S

Beef nd Vegebe S op

V D E O P

W e rig of beef for q ick op?

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Grille tffe ork LoinOr ost stu fing works ro t e ns de ot to cobat dryness n lean ork

' ond o the eaty tetueand odeate price o pork loin,but I' annoyed by its tendencytoad dyness. ost gilled pok

n recipes ty to copensate ith soebination o bining (soaking theat in a salt-a nd-s uga solution pio to

oking), ubs, sauces, o condients,I as intigued by soething a little

eent: a stung. In teoy, a ich llcould keep the loin oist and addec ppeal o the o herise planQ

e and Rol lte test ktchen , e typicaly avo ee-ed prk o giing becausits abundant at. Hoeve, ts assetae a liabiliy hen I ied to stulade oas. soon as I splt it open,eat el apat into a ess osce, sine, and at. cente-cu oinst poved e bette choice because solid scle cut c eany, but its lean-s orried e.

Y M W C A R

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G R I L L E D P O R K L O I W I H

A P P L E C R A B E R R Y F I L L I G

S R S 6

his ecipe is best pepaed ith a oin that is 7o 8 inches ong and 4 to 5 inches ide. To ake

cutting the pok easie, eeze it o 3 inutes. ustad seeds ae unavaiabe, sti an equa

aount o hoe-gan ustad into the ingae the appes have been pocessed. The pokoin can be stued and tied a day aead o tie,but don't season t e exteio unti you ae eadyo gi. Ou ecipe o Gied Pok Loin ith

Appe-Chey Fiing th Caaay is avaiabeee at .cooksiustated .co/octobe.

FillinI cup pple cder

cup cde r nr

!4 cup 4 u nces pced l ht

brown sur

lre shllot hled lenthwse nd

s iced thin croswie but 4 up

cups ounces pced dred pples cup 2 ounces pced dried crnberres

tblespoon rted fresh ner

tblespoon yellow ustrd seeds

see note boe

tespoon round llsp ice

4 tespon cyenn e

ok2 nc h wood chu ns

boneless centercu t pork oin rost

2 pounds se nte boe

Kosher slt nd roun d blck pepp er

Veetble oil for cookn rte

FOR THE FILLING: Bing a ingedientso sie in ediu saucepan ove ediu

high heat. Cove, educe heat to o, and cookunti appes ae vey so, about 2 inutes . Pus hixe though ne-es staine to etact asuch iquid as possibe. Retun iquid to saucepan and sie ove ediu-high heat untieduced to cup, about 5 inutes; eseve gaze.eanhie, pu se appe itue in ood pocessounti unioy coasey chopped, about een econd puses. Tanse i ng to bo and eig

eate hie pepaing pok.2. FOR THE PO: oak ood chunks in

ate o ou. eanhie, ooing iustaions though 3 above, cut eat to even -in cickness. eason inside ibeay ith sat and

spead appe ing in even aye, eaving -inchbode (iustation 4). Ro tighty and tie ithine at -inch intevas (iustations 5 and 6 ).

eason exteio ibeay it sat and peppe.3 Light age chiney state ed ith 5

quats o chacoa (about 85 biquettes) and aoo bun unti coas ae y ignited and coveed

it tin aye o ash, about 2 inutes. uidodied to-eve e by aanging coas to cove

Posiion ras fa-side up nse 2 u rou i cker af of roas 3 Repea uni pork oin isknife inc from oom of roas aou inc from oom sop- in c ic kness rouoand cu orizonay, soppin /2 inc pin aou i nc efore ede uneven, cover wi pasic wrefore ede Open is ap up Op en is fap up use mea pounder o even ou

4 . Wi on side of mea facin 5. arin from sor side, ro pork 6 Tie roas wi wine a you, season mea and spread fi i n, oin iy inervas

eavin in c order on a sides

one a o gi. Dain ood chunks and pace o ncoas. Open botto vent y. Position cookinggate ove coas, cove gi, and heat gate untihot, about 5 intes; scape gate cean ith gibush. Ligty dip ad o pape toes in oi; hoding ad it tongs, ipe cooking gate.

4. Pace oast, at-side up, on gate ove cooside o gi. Cove gi and position vent, haay open, ove oast to da soke thoughgi. Gi-oast unti instantead theoeteinseted into thickest pat o oast egistes 3

to 35 degees, 55 to 7 inutes, ipping oncehaay though cooking tie. Bush oast ithha o eseved gaze; ip and bush ith ea ining gaze . (Yo ay need to eheat gaze biey toake speadabe. ) Continue to cook unti gaze isgossy and sticky, about 5 inutes onge.

5 Tanse oast to cutting boad, oosey tentith oi, and et est o 5 in utes. ( Intenatepeatue shoud ise to abot 45 degees.)Cut into -inch-thick sices, eoving tine asyou cut. eve iediatey.

G R I L L E D P O R K L O I W I H A P P L E

C R A B E R RY F I L L G O A G A S G R L L

Foo ecipe o Gied Pok Loin th AppeCanbey iing though step 2 substituting 2cups ood chips o chunks and soaking theo 3 intes. Dain chips and pace in sadisposabe auin pan. About 2 inutesbeoe giing, pace pan ith chips on piaybne ( bune tt i eain on duing cooking ); position cooking gate ove bunes. Tuna bunes to ig and heat ith id don o 5 minutes. cape and oi gate. Leave piaybune on high and tun o ote bune(s).

S M il R 6 l R 2 0 0 7

Pace oast, atside up, on side opposite bune and poceed ith ecipe o step

C O O K ' S L V Oriina Tes Kice n

R E C I P E N 6 0 S E C O N D S

Gri ed Pork Loi n wi Appe - ner i n

V D E O T I P S

Was e dierence eween pok oin cus

Was e es way o su e pork oi n?

s pin k pork safe o ea?

E Q U I P M N T T E S T I N G :

Propane evel IndcatorsYou never wan o run ou of as m idway r

r in To a end , we esed ree propan

ind icaors, wic are desined o sow ow

fue you ave in your ank Te Propane Ge ni

($ 4 99) sound s an aa wen youve o w

o urs of cooki n ime ef U nforunaey, i w

ony wen e ri is in ied Te

Gri Pro eck ( $ 5 3 5 ) woks

i ke a mood rin, wi spod i

cay i umi nain coor a awe found neary indecip ee

We muc preferred e OriinaGri Gaue ( $ 1 3 . 9 9 ) , wicooks ike a car as aue

You o ok e ind icaor

o e coar of e n k;

wen you i e ankree inces o e

round , i reisers eas eve by wei

Eizae Bomze

B EST GS GThe Original Grilchec s the gas e

standard 20-galo

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Intoducing Ricotta Gnocchhis elegnt F rentine dish is the lighter sin f tt gn hi Bt chieving

the right textre eqres re th sile ritt-rtt sw

A s te petite divas o te pasta aily,potato gnocci (ic, tecnicaly,aen't even pasta) have a eptationo being diclt to ok it andalays ot te eot e best ones stat

baked potatoes and equie at least osto ake te doug , not to ention sape ok te And ost o te lavo coes osace ate tan te gnocci itsel It asn't a cople o yeas ago en tied y sto tende, pilloy icotta gnocci tat eal gnocci oes n't need to begin and end itds A poll o te test kitcen evealed tatny o y coleagues een't too ailia iticotta vesion is elegant, avou, and

ingly oe staigtoad dis as tood not to sae it otes, and as deteed to gue ot o to ake it at oe

Revieing a ide sat o ecipes evealed, like any talian dises, tis Foentine spe doesn't equie a ong list o ingedients: j sttta, eggs, o, Paesan ceese, salt, peppe,soeties ebs o spinac e tecniqe

ite siple, too e dough is olled ot intoes, cut into sall pieces, and boiled Even te

Italian naes o icotta gnocci sond ong: aa ( "badly ade ), eeing to tei

eties l ess-tan- ode-peect appeaance, (" naked) , because t ey esebe avi

itot tei pasta jackets

rkng the Ch eeene te sccess o tis di s ould inge on itst poinent ingedient: icotta ceese ost

pes ca fo an entie pound astes peeedoleilk cotta to te eane, less lavol pat vaiet I began by oing a basic doug,

o Kind s of Gnocc himore amar poao gnocc (e) as a exures beween pasa and dumping Te ricoa ceese

on (rig) is mo re delicae wi a exure i ke ravio i

ou e pasa jacke

OTTO G N OC C R COTT GN OCC I

S A A W U

Gnocci doug is ro led ino ick ropes on a floured couner and en s iced ino smal l pi l low-saped pieces

cobning a pd o icotta t an egg, a cupo lou, cup o Paesan ceese, and s oe saltand peppe Instead o te pillo bdles 'dbeen oping o, got dense, oladen blobs

tat lacked ceese lavo oe Paesan elpedap p te avo, but needed to use ess looeve, en cut back on te o, te dougas too sticy and okable

Wen a ello test cook coented on teateiness o seaket icotta (i n I taly, icottais ceay and dy, but Aeican supeaketbands ae cdy and et), sa an oppotunityn te test kitcen, e oen ticken yogut bydaining t in te eigeato Wat i dainedte icotta? ue enoug , te eslt as a sigtlydie doug tat ad oe stucte I elt I adade eal pogess o cold ok on cttingback te ou

Bndng Technq ueaking bay steps, educed t e aont o outo cp, ic ade te gnocci sigtly lessguy At cp, ey ee even bette, but stilnot peect Any less o and te doug becaean ovly stcky batte I couldn't eove anyoe oise o te cotta, so tied sapping potato stac and constac o soe o eou s just ade e gnocci guey and sliy

tougt back to one o te ecipes 'dtied and di sissed o its use o an unexpec ted

O O

'

s U R E

2

ingedient: es bead cubs Could is siadditionone tat's oen coupled i ilegg to add tendeness to eat oaabsob o te oistue in e dough and alo

add less ou? ese gnocci ee a little bebut not enoug to justi te exta eot asn't eady to give up What i I toastedcubs? Fo y next test, I ade a doug jst 6 tablespoons o o and cp o oade died bead cubs e eslting gnoed togete and ad e p eect cobinatiotendeness and stuctue ( Hoping to bo to venience, tied sbstituting stoe-bought bcubs, but ey gave e gnocci a stae tas

Hand e Gentyee as one eleent still issng o isancing actpope tecnique Beoe stepp

out of te test kitcen one aenoon to neand, I put e gnocci dough on od ineigeato When etuned 1 intes latound that tle eigeation a elpe e cate doug stien and becoe oe okRoling it out aead by and asn't icpovided did it gently and oked i a lbit at a tie

e gnocci ee eady to e sieedte tie tey oated to e suace, tey neejust to oe inutes in e ate eoe bscooped out it a slotted poon One last

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JUST R IGHT TOO SOFT

Gnocch ough hou be mot an ghty tac to thetouch When the proper contency acheve, a few

crumb hou tc to your fnger (eft) If the ough toowet an a ot of crumb tc to your fnger (rght), tr n

atona our tabepoon at a tme

eained: tossing the tender little duplings in siple saue o browned butter, ined shal

ots, and sage When I set the platter o gnohin ront o y tasters, it took all o ve inute sbeore the last piee disappeared I guess they

weren't so badly ade aer all

R I C O A G O C C H I W I H B R OW E D

B E R A D S AG E SA C E

S E R V E S 4 T O AS F I R ST C O U R S E O R 2 TO 3 A S M A I N D I S H

We reoend using Caabro whole-ilk riott a,although oher brands and part-ski heese willwork in this reipe When rolling the gnohi,use just enough our to keep t1e dough rotiking o your hands and work surae; usingoo uh our will result in tough gnohi The

gnohi an be rolled, ut, and rerigerated orup to 24 hours To reeze t1e unooked gno

hi, plae the baking sheet in the reezer until tegnohi are r (about hour), then transerhe to a zipper-lok bag and store te or

up to onth Thaw rozen gnohi overnightn t1e rerigerator or at oo teperature or hou beore ooking as direted To prevent thegnohi ro ooling too quikly, war a servingplatter or serving bowls in a 200-degree oven you preer, replae the browned butter saue withToato-Crea Saue (eipe ollows), PoriniCrea Saue , or up Pesto ( reipes availableree at ooksillustratedo/otober)

nocchiI - or 1 6ounce continer whole-mi l k r icott

cheese see note boe

2 large sices white sandwich read crusts removed

nd bred torn into quarters

lrge egg

2 tabespoons mi nced fresh basil leaves

2 tabespoons minced fresh parsley leves

Tbe s t

'I teaspoon ground bla ck pepper6 tabespoons l- purpose flour pl us additionl for

work su rfce

ounce Parmesn cheese grated ao ut cup

auc talespoon s unslted butter cut into pieces

I smal shl ot mi nced about 2 tbespoons

2 teaspoons mi nced fresh sage leaves

teaspoon ju ice from I lemon

I tespoon table salt

FOR E GNOCCI: in ne-eshstrainer set over deep ontainer or bowl with 3

paper oee lters or triple layer o paper towels Pla e riotta n lin ed strainer, over, and rerigerate or hour djust oven rak to iddle position and heat oven to 300 degrees

2 eanwhil, roess bea in ood proessoruntil nely grund, about 0 seonds Spreadrubs on ried baking sheet and bake untildry and just beginning to turn golden, about0 inutes, stirring one during baking tieet ool to roo teperature (You should haveabout up rubs)

3 Transer drained riotta to ood roessor andpulse un til urds brek down into ne, grainy on

sisteny, about eight -seond pulses sing rubber spatula, obine riotta, egg, basil, parsley, teaspoon salt, ad pepper in large bowl dd lour,Paesan, an bread rubs; stir until well obined Reigerate dough or 5 inutes Chektexture o dough ( see photos above) and add orelour i needed

4. Lightly dust work suae with lour ithloued hands, roll leonsized piee o doughinto -inh-thik rope, rolling ro enter odough outward Cut rope into - inh lon g pieesand transer to parhent paperlined riedbaking sheet epeat with raining dough,dustin g work surae wit lour as need ed

5 FOR E SAUCE: elt butter in 2-inhskillet over ediu-high heat, swirling oasionally, until butter is browned and releases nuttyaroa, about in utes O heat, add shallotand sage, stirring unl shallot is agrant, about inute Stir in leon juie and salt; over to keepwar

6. O COOK GNOCCD: Bring 4 quarts waterto boil in large pot or Duth oven over high heatdd tablespoon salt Redue heat so water is siering, t1en gently drop hal ognohi into waterand ook until all piees oat to sure Continueto sier until gnohi are ooked tough, about2 inutes longer, adjusting heat to aintain gentle

sier sing slotted spoon, soop gnohi wate, allowing exess water to drain o spoon;tansfer gnohi to skillet wit sau and over to

Smme r, Don 't o lMos pasa soud e cooked a a ful l oi l , u if

gnocci are cooked a a ful oi ey can fal apar

from e vigorous cu rnin g Once e waer comes

o a oil , reduce e ea, add e gnocci, and

make sure e waer jus si mme rs

S P M E R 0 I" il F R

007

E Q U E N E S T I N G :

Sotted SpoonsA soed spoon is indispensale for ising ou of oi l ing waer Bu afer damaging

cae gnocci and dropping doz ens of green

as we esed nine models, we learned a

jus any comi naion of andles and oles w

do Our esers preferred lengy andles,

owls, and enoug small sl is or puncure

quickly drain waer wiou losing as muc

one peie pea A sainless seel spoon f

Calpaon ($995) and nonsick nylon mo

from Messermeiser ($295) and OXO ($59all me our demand s, o ug e sl igly im

Messermeiser was downgraded for is small

capaci Wi i s l iger weig and sl imme

price ag, OXO ju s edged ou Calp alo n for

op on ors or comp lee esing resuls, go

o cooksil l usraed com/ ocoer

TOP SLOTe OXO Goo G rp Nyon Sotte

Spoon the bet job of retrevnggnocch (an more) from a pot o

bong water

keep war Repeat ooking proess wit ing gnohi sing rubber spatula, gentgnohi wit1 saue until uniorly oatedaong wared bowls or serving platter aniediately

O M A T O - C R E A M S A C E

M A K E S A B O U T C U P S . E N O U G H F O RI R E C I P E O F G N O C C H I

tblespoon extr-irgin olie oil

med ium grlic cloe m inc ed or pressed

grlic press bout I tespoon

oun ce cn diced tomatoes pur

food processor unti l smooth

'I tespoon tble salt'I tespoon sugar2 tbespo ons chopped fresh bsil eaves

2 tablespoo ns hevy crem

Heat oil in 2- inh nonstik skillet over heat until shiering dd garli anduntil ragrant but not brown, about 20 s

Stir in toatoes, sat, and sugar; siethikened slighy, 5 to 6 inutes Reofro eat and stir in basi and ea Ckeep war

JC O O K ' S L V Oriina T s Kic n c o o k s i l l u t t c o m

R E C P E I N 6 0 S C O N D S

Ricoa Gnocc i

V I D E O T P S

ow can reven nocci from fal in aar? Can I use sore-oug read crums in is re

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Cicken Tikka Masala at HomeChiken tikka masaa is the single most popuar Indian restarant dis in the ord

Wy is it so rarely made at oe?

s sai that i h 970s, a plat

l of ovrcook chick tikkaboss, sss chick chks,skwr a cook i a taoor

was st ack to th kitch of ao cr hos b a isappoitro. Th Bgshi chf ctckl, hatg ca tomto souph cram, spriklig i ia spics,

porig it ovr h chick bforig it bck out to th iig room.

ivtiv cratio of chick tikkasala satis th maig cstomr,as th rcip was prfct, irs

rlw (iclig ia) fll i lovh th tr, moist pics of chickp i a lightl spic tomato crmc. fact, chick tikka masaa is sor that it wt o to ovrtak ths of Yorkshir puig a sh aps as th "tr atioal ish of ratai, accorig o formr Britishig Scrtar Roi ook .

3B Y R E B E C C A H A Y S

spit is poprit i rstaats,ps for chick tikka msala r bs

som of m favorit ia cookks, tsamt to its ack of ath

i ia cisi. Th rcips i

A spc ed omaocream sauce flavors roled cu nks o c cken.

ha mch i commo. Th all cal forriatig chick brast chks i ogrt, o24 hours, th skwrig thm, kab-stl,

cookig . Th ta oor ov ws rplc withroilr or grill. Th masa igrits vai,

th saucs wr all as as to prpar as ack taia tomato sauc.

o N G ey ngreents

But th similaritis it thr: all ofthrcips, th chick was ithr mush or r ath sacs wr uarabl rich a ovrspic.Th goo ws is that ths problms i otsm impossibl to ovrcom, a th promis ofa w wa o cook chick with xotic avos hpt of appa. jst a ct rcip .

o e n gredens or C cken Tka asala are avail a e a e sup ermarke Here are noes on wa o uy.

HICKEN BREASTSn whte met p we the ich tmtcemuce he tet itchen

pefe Be En

GARAM MASALAhi cm bntin f wmpc en the muce McCmic wn

ecet tet itchen ttin

PLAIN YOG U RTh m yu fm

ptecte be n hechce Bwn Cw u

fe b

C R U S E D T O M AT O E SChe me fm th e

be f the m uceMui en w hihy te

in ece tt

C

s I U S R

ac n g a wat a forsaso ish, so chos th br(ot th g) . ookig th oss rass wa cuttig thm to pics o ar th wbroi was st i h rght irctio. largr pics of chick it ot as qr th sarig hat of boi. t lsori of th ss sp of skwrg raw, sipchick pics. Bt t1 chick stil wast ogh.

Th ogrt maria is mat o t

th mat is it wth th ssc of sp aromaics. Whil ovright marisaqat avor th chick , h aso matxtr too tr, borrig o msh. ogh tim, th lcic aci i ogrt brow th proti stras i mat .

ws tmp to abo th ogrt mariatogthr. Bt ogr is so mtal torcip tht xclg i ft lik a mi stak. a iffrt wa to s it? cosir ig, a tchiqu w hav s or saks, rochick arts, wo trks. Sat iitraws moistr ot of proti th th rvhapps a th sat a moistr ow bac

What if salt th chick st, h ippogrt right for cookig?

rb th chick with simpl mixof sat a vra spics commo i cookr: cori, cmi, a ca. w30 miuts, whic gav m tim to prparmasla sac, th k th ch ick i oa broi it. Th rslt was th bst tkka ic sso with spics a tr bt so. jst half a hors tim , th salt rbo ts ob of avorig th chick a kit moist, a th ogrt mixtr ac s a tctiv brri, shilig t l mat ompowr ha of th broil.

To courag gnt carrig o th chic ftt p th ogurt with two tlspoooi. so took avatag of t ogrts ttxr, mixig it with mic gaic a frgrat gigr Th aromatics clg to th chias it cook, proucig tikk tht was gogh to a o its ow.

asterng asaaMasaa mas "hot spic, th igrii a masla sac p ag o th whof th cook. Wh th masala is to b srv

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P - Y - P C H I C K E N T I K K A A SA LA

B: Coa cicken i n sa and 2. MAKE SAUCE: Prepare 3 . DIP: Du nk ci cken in proec 4. BIL: Broi cicken, en 5. CMBINE: Cu cickespice mixure and refrigerae. creamy omao-m asaa sauce . ive coaing of yogur and oi a ow o res cu nks and add o sauce.

part of chickn tikka masala, howvr, tomatosand cram alwas form th bas. Working witha mixtur of sautd aromatics (onions, gingr, garlic, and chi ls) si mmrd with tomatoscrushd tomatos wr favord ovr dicd

cannd or frsh bcaus of thir smoothr conistnc) and cram, I tstd combinaton ar

combination of spics. With plnt of winnrs

and no ral losrs, I vntuall sttld on thimplst choic of all: commrcial garam masala.Garam masala blnds warm spics such as cardamom, black pppr, cinnamon, and coriandrn on jar. To bloo th avor of th garammasala, I sautd it in oil along with th aromatcs instad of adding it to th simmring sauc,as som rcips suggst. Thr was just onproblm: Man commrciall prpar masalaaucs contain tartrazin, an articial coloring.

Without it, th spics lnt m sauc an uglgra cast. A tablspoon of tomato past asil

T A S N G :

Basmati RcePrized fo r is n u favor

and swee aroma, asmai

rice is eaen wordwide

in piafs and ianis and

as an accompanimen o

curries Te es Indian

grown rice is said o

comefromtheH imalaya ONG O N F LAVO R

fooi s, were e snow-fooded soi a nd umid

cimae oer idea growing condiions. Coosing

among e muiude of oxes, ags, and urap

sacks avaiae oday on supermarke seves can

e confusing To ind a ruy greagrain, we seamed

seven rands, ive from India and wo domesic

opions Maced agains n dian i mpors, domesicrands Lund erg and Dea suered. Tey were ess

aromaic, and e gins did n eongae as muc .Teir ove exure was musy, oo. Wie a

of e impored n ds were accepae, asersoveemingy cose e onges sampeTidaas eir favorie. or e compee resus of is

asing, g o o cooks used.com/ocoerEizae Bomze

rstord a plasant shad of rd.M rcip was gtting rav rviws, but I had

th nagging fling tlt somthing was missing.I scannd throgh a avor chcklist in m mind:Salt? No. Acidit? No. at? No. Swtnss?That was it. I stirr a taspoon of sugar nto thpot, thn anotlr. M work was don, th sugarhaving succ ssll roundd out t1 avors of th

sauc. Whn I spoond th chickn ovr basmatiric and sprinkld it with cilantro, I knw I had adish wort staing hom for.

C H I C K E I K K A MA S A LA

SERVES 4 T 6

This ish is bst whn prpard with whol-milkogurt, but low-fat ogrt can b substitutd.For a spicir dish, o not rmov th ribs ands ds from t chi l. If ou prfr, subsitut 2taspoons ground c oriandr, 4 taspoon groundcardamom, 4 taspoon ground cinnamon, and taspoon groun black pppr for th garam

asala. Th sauc can b mad aad, rfrigratd for up to 4 das in an airtight containr, andgntl rhat bfor adding th hot chickn.Srv wit basmat ric.

hickn ikka tespoon round cumi n

tespoon round cornder

/4 tespoon cyenn e

tespoon tble slt

2 pounds boneless skiness chicken brests

trimme d of ft

cup pin whoe mi lk yourt see n ote boe

2 tbespoo ns eetble oi l

2 medi um rl ic cloes minced or pressed throu

rl ic press bout 2 tespoons

tblespoo n rted fresh iner

aala auc tblespoo ns eetble o

medum onon dced fine bout /4 cups

2 med um rl ic coes minced or pressed throuh

rlc press bout 2 tespoons

2 tespoons rted fresh iner

serrno ch i e r ibs nd seeds remoed flesh

min ced see note boe

S P M B R o C B R

tblespoo n tomto pste

tbespoon rm ms see note bo

2 8ou nce cn crushed tomtoes

2 tespoons sur

tespoon tbe st

cup hey crem/4 cup chopped fresh cil ntro lees

. FOR THE CHICKE: ombin coriandr, cann, and salt in smallSprinkl b ot1 sids of chickn with spic mprssing gntl so mixtur adhrs. Plac on plat, covr with plastic wrap, and rat for 30 to 60 minuts. n larg bowltogthr ogurt, oil, garlic, an gingr; s

2 . FOR THE SAUCE: at oil in largovn ovr mdum hat until shimmrinonion and cook, stirring fruntl, ungoldn, 8 to 0 minuts. Add garlic, gingtomato past, and garam masala; cook, frqntl, until fragrant, abot 3 minutcrushd tomatos, sugar, and salt; bring

Rduc hat to mdium-low, covr, and for 5 min uts, stirring occasionall. Stir ian rturn to simmr. Rmov pan from hcovr to kp warm.

3. Whil sac simmrs, adjust ovn upprmiddl position ( about 6 inchs froing lmnt) and hat broilr. Using tonchickn nto ogurt mixtur (chickn shcoat with th ick lar of ogurt ) and arrwir rack st in foil-lind rimmd bakinor broilr pan. iscard xcss ogurt mBroil chickn until thickst parts rgisdgrs on instant-rad trmomtr anrior is lightl charrd in spots, 0 to 8 mipping chickn hala trough cooking

4. Lt chickn rst 5 minuts, thn c -inc h chunks an stir into warm sauc simmr chickn in sauc) . Stir n cilantrosasoning with salt, and srv.

C O O K ' S L V Oriina Tes Kice n c o o s I u s t r t c o

R E C P E N 6 0 S E C O N D S

Ci cken Tikka Masaa

V D E O P

Wa s e es way o grae ginger ?

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e Best Way to Cook egetalesVegetabe side dshes ote do't get ch attetioad taste athe d How do you buid avo with aiiu f k D

One cookbook sas to b oi broccol anoth er sas to

team it. Neither method actuall makes broccoli

aste better Over the eas the test kitchen has

earned whic h meth ods wok best wth specic

egetables Here' s what ou need to know about the

most common techniq ues

BOILING all ows ou to season vegetabes as the cook

use I tablespoon tabe salt per 4 q uarts water) How

ver it' s ea to overcook vegetabl es when bo il ing and

his method wases awa avor Boi led vegetables need

urher embellis hment s uch as a compo und butter or

naigretteT with nonporos green vegetabes

c as green beans and snap peas

MING washes awa less lavor than bo ing and

aves vegetables crisper Doesn 't all ow for seasoni ng

egetables and o nl works wth small batches ( I pound

r less) Try with oros or de cate vegeta es

ch as asparags broccoi and ca ower.

ATI N G all ows for the addi tio n of everthi ng

rom garlic t o he rbs but requires constant atention

nd a nonstick pan ry with peas and zucchin i

ANOAING caramelizes natural sugars in

egetables and pomotes browning Doesn' t work fhe pan is overloaded and most recipes rel on tight

tting lid to captre steam and h e p cook vegetab es

hrough ry with asparags and broccoi .

OAING conc entrates flavors b divng off ex-

ess moistre and makes vegetables crisp Requires

t least 30 min utes (in cl udi ng time to heat oven)

y wth asparags carrots c a ifower green

eans and zcchini.

OILING browns vegetables q uick an d deepl

rolers requi re constant attenti on ; keep food atast 4 in ches from the heating ee ment to prevent

are-ups Try wt asparags and cchini.

o whch techni ques do we efer? Ou r favoite

doo r cookng methods such as roasting pan

oasting an d b ro ing actuall add favor to vegetables .avorte recipe s are ava ab e ree at

oosistrated.com october where yo wi

so nd or " Gde t o Gri ing Vegetabes.

BROCCOShopping Notes The stalks are ju st as tas as the

orets so ma ke sure the aren' t dr or cracked

Preparation Cut orets into 1 inch peces; peel

staks and cut on bas into ! nch -thic k pieces

Basic Cooking Method n roastng brings out

broccoli ' s sweet rather than slfurous lavors. Saut

peeled stalks from 1 pounds broccol in 1 2-i nch non

stick skl let i lmed with 2 tabespoons oil for 2 min utes

To promote brownng cook over medum h gh heat and

do not stir Add florets and cook u ntl the stat to brown

( I to 2 minutes) then add 3 tablespoons water cover

and cook for 2 min utes Remove li d and cook unt l water

evaporates and broccol is tender ano ther 2 min utes

Favorite ecipe at Cookslstrated.com

n Roasted Broccoli with Lemon Browned Butter

PREPAIN G BOCCOLI I . Hold bu nch of

broccol ups ide

down on work

surface Usng chef's

knife trim off lo retsve cose to therheads Cut florets

nto 1 - inch p eces .

2. Place eac stak

on cutting board and

squa re it o wt

chefs knfe. Remove

outer nch of stalk

which is q ite tough.

3 . Cut peeed stalkon bi as into nc h

hic k sl ices abo

M ON COOKIN G I KES ND H W T I D T)VECOOKING Vegetables wil l continu e to soen as the make the r wa to the tabl e. To keep vegetabes

nd tender remove them from the h eat wen sl ightl underdon e

NEVEN COOKING Make sure vegetables ae cut un iform. This s particul arl impo rtant when steam ng

auting

OW COKING Overloaded pans wl c ookve slow When roasting and sauting gve vegetabes room t o

Piled on t op of each other th e will steam and won 't taste as good

C O O K'

S I L L U S T R A T E D 6

ASAGUSShopping Notes Pencl -th in aspagus ae eas

overcooked and thick speas are wooy ch ooseasparagus 2 to / inch th i ckPreparation Tim tough ends

Basic Cooking Methods Broing and pan-roastnconce ntrate favors in deli cate asparagus Toss 2 ou

tmmed asparagus wih I tblesoon o ive oil o n ba

sheet and brol shaking pan once for to I 0 m nute

Or heat I tablesoon each vegetabe oil and bu ter

in 1 2-i nch nonstck ski l let Add 2 ounds trmmed

asparagus wth half of tips po int ng n one d irecton

other haf pontng in o pposite d rection Cover and

cook over medu mh igh heatfor 5 m nutes Uncove

and cook over high heat unti l tend er and browned 5

7 minutes

Favorite Recipes at Cookslstrated.com

Broed Asaagus with Reduced Balsamic Vnaigre

and rmesan n Roasted Asparagus wth C he r Tomato es and

Black Ol ives

IMM IN G ASPAAGUS

With one and hol d the aspags about hala dow

stak; wth humb and in dex inger of other and od

spea about an inch from bottom Bend slk unti l it sn

GREN ENShopping Notes Slender crisp gen beans a best

boi ed Older tougher gen beans (the knd found n su

markets at most times of the ear) ar best asted.

Preparation Trm ends

asc Cooking Method Roastng promotes the co

vesion of starches to sugars th s im provng flavor T

I pou nd trmme d beans with tabespoon ove oil a

oast on foi -l ined bakng sheet n 4 50 degee oven f

20 m nutes. Turn beans once for even brownng

Favoite Recipes at Cookslustrated.com

Roasted Green Beans with Red non and Wan uts

Roasted MapeMustard Green Beans

I M M I N G E N DS F M G R E E N BEA N S

ne u p beans on board and trm all ends wit just one s

8/13/2019 Cook's Illustrated 088

19/36

PSShoppng Notes Frozen peas are al most always

better than resh she ll p eas, wh ich ten d to be starchy

epaaton Frozen peas can be used withou t

thaing

asc Cookng Method Dont boil peasthey are

much better sauted Add rozen peas drectly to pan

ith sauted aromatics (garlic and/ or shall ots cooked

in a ew tablespoons o butter until gnt) a nd cover

pan to tp steam and heat peas through (this w ill takeabout 4 min utes) Add 2 teaspoons sugar to poun d

rozen peas to boost lavor

Favote ecpe at Cookslstated.com

Sauted Buttery Peas with Mint an d Feta Cheese

Z C C IShoppng Notes cchini ighing le an 8 ounces

a mo vrl and lesste an lar ones

Pepaation Shred, d iscarding seeds and core

then salt and squeeze d

asc Cookng Method Shredding, salting (use /2teaspoons sat with 2 pou nds zucchin i) and squeez

ing removes moi sture rom this wate vegetab e as

does a dheat cookng method, like sauting Toss

dried zucchin i with 2 teaspoons oive oil and then cook

in 1 2inc h nonstick skil let i lmed with 2 teaspoons

additional o il over high heat or 4 mi nutes Stir nre

quently as zucchi ni cooks to promote browni ng

Favote ecipe at Cookslstrated.com

Zucch ni with Tomatoes and Basi l

SHEDDIN G AND SALING ZUCCHIN I

pieces Sh red o n ae hoes o

box gter, rotating zucchi ni as needed

to avoid shreddi ng seeds and core

2 . Toss zucchi ni

th lt n colanderand din I 0 min

utes Wrap zucchini

in kitchen towel

in batches, and

ring out excess

moisture

CLFOWEShopping Notes Buy heads o caulilowe with

tight irm lorets without any discooti on epaaton Trim leaves and stem then cu t nto

large wedgesBasc Cookng Method Roasting avoids the su lu

rous smel that sometim es results when caulioer

is boiled or steamed Toss wedges rom I head

caul iower with 4 tablespoons olive oi and roast on

oi - l ined baking sheet in 475 degree oven or 25 to3 5 mi nu tes Cover pan with oil or irst I 0 min utes

o cooking time to ensure that caul ilower cooks

through Also, pace bakig sheet on bottom oven

rack to maxmize browning Fl ip wedges once bot

tom has browned nicely (ater about 20 mi nutes)

Favote ec pe at Cooksl stated .com

Roasted Ca ulilower with SoyGinger Sauce with

Sca l ion

CUING UP CAULIF LWE

I . Pull o outer leaves and cut stem lush

2 . Cut head into 8 eq ual wedges so that core and

lorets remain intact

ESSENIAL EQIMIn add ition to the usual sspectsknie and peelerhe

thre items we use rquently when pparing vegebles

ES KITCHEN ESSENTIAL C N D E

The mega-p erorated bol o the Precisio Pierced

Edurace Sailess See Coader ($ 29 99)

quic kly and compl etely drains l iqu d rom boi led veg

etables This 5- quart colande r its in a large Dutch ov

makng it id ea o steaming

ES KITCHEN ESSENTIAL

NN ICK SKI LLE

We use a large non stick skil let to promote brownin g

sauted or pan-roasted vegetabes The AllClad Sa

ess Nosick 1 ch Frya ($ 1 60) was the top

perormer in our kitchen tests

IMMED AKING SHEE

A sturdy baking sheet that wont b uckle is a must he

roasting at high temperatu res The col oodse

Half-Size H eavyDu Shee Pa ($ is laeeno ugh to hold a big batch o vegetables and stays lat

du ring roasting

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

CARRShopping Notes Avoi d extralarge carrots whi ch a re oten woody and bi tter

Baby carrots are in e or roasting but too thi ck or glazi ng

Pepaaton Peel regular carrots and sl ice o n bia s

asc Cookng Methods Roasting in tenses sweetness without requ iringother ingredents Toss poun d baby carrots with I tabespoon ol ive oil in

broiler pan bottom and roast in 47 5d egree oven or 20 mi nu tes shaking panseveal times to promote even browning Gazin g makes carrots even sweeter

but requi res more prep Cook I poun d sl iced carrots with tablespoon sugar

and /2 cup chicken broth in covered 1 2-i nch nonstick ski l let or 5 mi nutesUncover and cook unti l l iqu id reduces to 2 tablesp oons, to 2 min utes Add

I tabespoon bu tter and addi tiona 2 tablespoon s sugar and cook, stirring

reque tly u nti l carrots ae tende r and evenly glazed, about 3 mi nutes

Favote ecpes at Cooks stated.com

Roasted Baby Caots wth G neOange Gaze Glazed Carrots with Bacon a nd Pecans

S E P E M B R b C B E R 7

SLICING CAS N THE

Cut carrots on bas nto peces thick and 2 inches long

8/13/2019 Cook's Illustrated 088

20/36

Iprovig lazed Chice BreastsWe wate to eevate this istitutioa stadar to a elegat weekight ier

his euire a gaze tat woul stick to the chicke a ot taste ie ca

0 a rct light to Paris, I chos thglaz chick mal optio Thlight attat st ow a plastictra isplaig a pal chick brast

h abb ski smothr b a cloig glaz I it throgh two bits That vig I foslf at a ps cal rstarat orrig th hosialt: uck orag A silvr plattr arriv

rig carv ck pics cla with p-ambrcoat i a shi, glaz sac Th mat wasctl oist, a ach bit rval th satis

cobiatio of roast poltr a a citrs balac b swt a sor lavorsThs cotrastig xprics got m to thikabout glaz chicks stats i th Amricaar rprtoir At bst its a hmrmkight ir Ispir b Frch mal,

sir a glaz chick brast with prfctlr ski a moist mat scitl coath a coplxl lavor glaz; o worh of

chia bt stil somtg I col mak ark o a Tsa ight

mng Home to Roast I got back ho, I sarch for glaz

k rcips o th Itrt, whr I mostl sipl "mp-abak vrsios Thctios: Por a jar of it prsrvs ovrchick brasts a bak I wast spris attmpt at o o ths rcips rg

th ov lookig mch lik m airplal spit th p-a-bak rcips ismallts of abb, pal ski a a ca-lik glazpool at th bottom of th pa, I i hav

ir its simplici Browig th ski was a I col brow th chick i a ovproof

t o th stovtop bfor trasfrrig th skilo th ov to ish cookig or staarkitch mtho for cookig bo-i, skiosts) I col a a glaz to th pa jst archick brasts wr scitl browut rst I wol hav to th glaz vrp I dg p i m rsarch s a goo alick, swt igrits for th bas : it prs, olasss, mapl srp, a brow sgar

w was it that m ck !orag sac is was glaz t ot cloig? M hch wasit was som sort of rctio sac Flippig

ough Frch cookbooks, I fo m aswr:uc orag jic Orag jic is sti ck, aciit hlps balac th sgaraothr k

Y C A R L E K E L S E E

sgar, mapl srp, a ho agacor srp, I iscovr othrwNtritio labls o t1 swtrs r m palats acc rac: or scotais half a somtims lss thal as mch sgar as othr swt

xcit b th prospct that csrp might hlp m cas, I iiatl trim som chick brhat a skillt, a whipp p a batch of glaz Not ol i this c

srphac gl az cook p prfth mat sm jici r, almost asha bri th chick This warraa qick call to or scic itor, wtol m that t1 coctrat glcocor srp has a high ai for wwhich mas it hlps to hol moistth glaz, akig th ovrall ish sjicir That sam glcos also thicka as a gloss to th glaz

The chic ken and gae ae conveniently cooked in t he same pan

Howvr, as mch as tastrs likglazs cla avor, th ow thoit wast swt ogh A littl hoista of sgar gav th glaz jst

right lvl of swtss A miigrit i th ck sac I wast itrsti cratig a rcip for chick !orag, btsig orag jic i m glaz sm lik a gooplac to start

If the aze t cksT rcips I fo for classic orag sacofr m ogh giac to pic togthra workig rcip Ar browig som chickbrasts, I rasrr t1 at to a plat whiI rc orag jic a sgar i th mpskilt I th rtr th chick brasts toh skillt, roll hm i th glaz, a ishth off i th ov astrs complai thatth glaz was "too thi, "irrsposibl swt,a "i ot ahr to th chick Mor sgarwol hav b th ial soltio to th txtraliss bt was iappropriat for a glaz tat wasalra too swt

Th I rmmbr a tchiq a tst ktchcollag s for hr cak frostig rcip Shmix i a small amout of light cor srp toa lstr a bobt, criosl, ot swtss I awas assm cor srp was sprswt, bt wh I tast a ip ofsgar, brow

C O O K S I S R A E D

shallot, vigar, ijo mstar, a a picpppr aks crat complxi t

spit ths improvmts, thr was complaitfrom m I still flt th glaz shoclig v or to th chick From past tI kw that aig corstarch or or toglaz ol ma it glopp Mab th prob

To know when the sauce s eady ae its secon

eduction in step 4 pu l a heatpoo bbe satu

though it It shou ld leave a wide ta

8/13/2019 Cook's Illustrated 088

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R P H R H A N D G L AZ E D C H C K E N B R E A S T S

COAchi cken beasts with ou 2 BROWN chicken in ski et REDUCE gae in emp skil let ROLL each b east in gae TNSER skilet to oven and inish

6 WH SK eseved onge ju ice in to gae SPOON glae ove chicken

wast with th glaz b ut with th chick . What I a a thi lar o our to th otsi o

th mat bor browig it? I th tst kitch,w ot tpicall coat mat with our borbrowig it, but it ga th chick brasts athi, crisp crust that sr as a goo grip orth glaz. (orstarch aso hl th glaz, but ittur th ski a bi t slim.)

I a a small amout o orag juic justbor srvig to bright th glaz laors rthr. Thi s ishig touch ma all th ir

c. Now I ha lat glaz chick to algat w hightar bo 3 0,000 t.

O R A G H O Y G L AZ D

C H I C K B R A T

R 4

h rucig th glaz i stp 4, rmmbrthat th skit hal b hot us a omitt. To mak sur th chick cooks vl, bubrasts that ar similar i sizabout 2 oucsapic. I th glaz looks r urig bakig,a up to 2 tablspoos o juic to th pa. Iour skillt is ot oproo, brow th chick

brasts a ruc th glaz as istruct, thtrasr th chick a glaz to a 3 b 9 -ichbakig ish a bak (ot wash th skillt). th chick is ll cook, trasr it toa plat to rst a scrap th glaz back ito thskillt to b ruc.

cups plus 2 tbespoons orne juce

cup lt co syrup

tbespoons oney

tblespoon Djon mustr

tbespoon stl e te ner

/ tespoon re pep per fes

Tle st n roun blc pepper

cup p urpose flour

bone- n sno n ccen brest les

bout 2 ounces ec r bs remoe

trmm e of excess f n sn see not e boe

2 tespoons eetbe o l

me um sl ot mnce bout tbespoons

l Ajust o rack to mil positio ahat o to 37 5 grs. Whisk cups oraguic, cor srup, ho, mustar, vigar, pp

pr laks, taspoo sal t, a taspo o pp pr togthr i mium bowl. Plac lour i

pi plat, th saso chick o both siswith salt a pppr. Workig with o chickbrast at a tim, coat chick with lor, pattigo xc ss .

2. Hat oil i oproo 2-ich skillt ormium hat util shimmrig. A chickbrasts ski-si ow cook util wll browa most o at has rr rom ski , 8 t o4 miuts. (I ar 3 miuts ou ot harit sizzlig, icras hat to mium-high.I ar 6 miuts chick is arkr tha lightl

brow, ruc hat slightl.) Tur chick alighl brow othr si, about 5 miuts logr.Trasr chick to pl at.

3 Pour o all but taspoo at rom pa.A shallot a cook util so, to 2 miuts. Icras hat to high a a orag juicmixtur. Simmr, stirrig occasioall, util srup a ruc to cup (hatp roo spatulashoul lav slight trail wh ragg throughglaz), 6 to 0 miuts. Rmov skillt romhat a tilt to o si so glaz pools i corro pa. Usig togs, roll ach chick brast ipool glaz to coat l a plac skisiow i skillt.

4 Trasr skillt to o a bak chickutil thickst part o brasts rgistrs 60 grso istatra thrmomtr, 25 to 30 miuts,turig chick skisi up hala throughcookig . Trasr chick to pl attr a lt rst 5mits. Rtur skillt to high hat (b carlhal ll b vr hot) a cook glaz, stirrigcostatl, util thick a srup (h atproo spatula shou l la wi trail wh ragg throughglaz), about miut. Rmov pa rom hata whisk i rmaiig 2 tablspoos oragjuic. Spoo taspoo glaz ovr ach brasta sr, passig rmaiig glaz at tabl.

A P P L A P L G LA Z D C H I C K B R A

Follow rcip or Orag-Ho laz hickBrasts, substitutig appl cir or orag juica 2 tablspoos mapl srup or ho.

P A P P L B R O W U G A R G L AZ D

C H C B R A T

Follow rcip or Orag-Ho laz hickBrasts, substitutig piappl juic o oragjui c a 2 tablspoos brow sugar or ho.

S E P E M B E R b C B E R 2 0 0 7

E Q U I M E N E S I N G :

Inexpensve Instnt-Redhemometes instantead themomete shoud have a nge to cove high a nd ow tem peatues; a

ong enough o each the inteio o lae

o meat; a way to ecaibte sips in acc

and , above a, speed, so you do n' t have to

the oven doo open too long The most

eted i nstantead the momet e in the test k

emains the ThemoWoks SupeFastThemwhich meets al these citeia and p oducesings in just ou seconds Howeve, the $85

begs o an aodabl e al tenative

We n seven themometes piced unde

though a gaun tlet o boil i ng wate, ice wate

oil , and thickcut pok chops to compae

cy, speed, and unctionai The Thema