Copyright © 2015 - All Rights Reserved Innovations... · AAK Olive Oil Olea Europaea Oil Oil...

Copyright © 2015 - All Rights Reserved


Stand 228

James Hodgkinson

November 2015

High Oil Innovations Formulating with high levels of oils, why and how?


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Why oil?


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Moisturising / Hydrating

Botanical / Herbal

Dermatologically Tested

Time / Speed

Vitamin / Mineral Fortified

Paraben Free

For Sensitive Skin

Brightening / Illuminating*

Ethical - Animal

Long Lasting

57.27%

55.87%

38.17%

30.22%

21.99%

21.88%

18.73%

16.73%

16.62%

16.43%

Most popular claims in skincare

Why oil?

Source Mintel GNPD. Feb 15-July 15


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Botanical / Herbal

Brightening / Illuminating

Damaged Hair

Long-Lasting

Moisturising / Hydrating

Time / Speed

Vitamin / Mineral Fortified

Paraben Free

Dermatologically Tested

Ethical / Green Packaging

51.58%

47.41%

23.78%

23.40%

21.29%

21.14%

18.91%

16.10%

11.67%

10.28%

Most popular claims in hair care

Why oil?

Source Mintel GNPD. Feb 15-July 15


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Fragrances

Natural /

Green

Conditioners Preservatives

They provide many functions

Why oil?

Emollients

Moisturisers

Solvents UV Filters


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Why high oil?


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The higher the concentration the

greater the impact

Why high oil?

• Greater emolliency

• Longer lasting moisturisation

• Stronger marketing claims

• More noticeable sensory properties

• Ability to create unique applications


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Which oils?


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0.00%

5.00%

10.00%

15.00%

20.00%

25.00%

30.00%

2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015

Shea Butter

Mineral Oil

SunflowerOil

Jojoba Oil

Petrolatum

SweetAlmond Oil

Olive Oil

Coconut Oil

SoybeanOil

Argan Oil

Which oils?

Source Mintel August 2015


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0.00%

5.00%

10.00%

15.00%

20.00%

25.00%

30.00%

2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015

Mineral Oil

Petrolatum

Which oils?



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0.00%

5.00%

10.00%

15.00%

20.00%

25.00%

30.00%

2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015

Shea Butter

Sunflower Oil

Jojoba Oil

SweetAlmond Oil

Olive Oil

Coconut Oil

Soybean Oil

Argan Oil

Which oils?



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What about innovation?


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Niche applications based on oils are

becoming more prominent.

Including:


• Cleansing oils

• Cleansing conditioners

• Moisturising body wash

• Body scrubs


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0.0%

10.0%

20.0%

30.0%

40.0%

50.0%

60.0%

2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015

Use of oils in personal care



Skincare

Hair Care

Colour

Cosm. Soap and

Bath


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5.0%

7.0%

9.0%

11.0%

13.0%

15.0%

17.0%

19.0%

21.0%

2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015

Use of oils in personal care



Hair Care

Colour

Cosm.

Soap and

Bath


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In the market



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Formulating with oils


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Oils in combination with…

Surfactants

Actives

Hair

Conditioning

Agents

Rheology

Modifiers

UV

Filters

Emulsifiers


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Body and Face Cleansing Oil 82% Oil

High Oil Bath and Shower Body Wash 50% Oil

Cleansing Hair Conditioner 50% Oil

Face Cleansing Lotion 48% Oil

High Oil Cream 20% Oil

Formulations


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• Clear oil based formulation

• Foams and lathers during application

• Could be used in shower or as a hand / face cleanser

• Moisturising

• Leaves the skin feeling soft and nourished

Body and Face Cleansing Oil


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82% Total Oil – DFL 0051

Body and Face Cleansing Oil

Trade Name INCI Function

Tegosoft® XC Phenoxyethyl Ester Oil

AAK Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annus Oil

Stepan-Mild® GCC Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate Surfactant

Tego® Sulfosuccinate DO75 Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate Surfactant

Viamerine 2500® Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic polyglyceride Oil based active

Givaudan Honey Glaze Parfum Fragrance


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High Oil Bath and Shower Body Wash

• Used to moisturise the skin during showering

• Time saving

• Foams and lathers on application

• Leaves the skin feeling soft without being greasy

• Could be used as a highly moisturising hand or face wash


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50% Total Oil - DFL 0023

High Oil Bath and Shower Body Wash


Water Aqua -

Rewopol® SB F 12 P Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate Surfactant

Tego® Betain F50 Cocamidopropyl Betaine Surfactant

Surfac G995V Glycerin Humectant

AAK Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus Oil Oil

Tego® Sulfosuccinate DO75 Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate Surfactant/Emulsifier

Saliguard COS Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorophenesin Preservative

Givaudan Raspberry Sorbet Parfum Fragrance


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• Provides 2 in 1 cleaning and conditioning

• Has a conditioner like appearance

• Ideal for ethnic hair cleaning

• Developed by

Cleansing Hair Conditioner


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Cleansing Hair Conditioner


Water Aqua -

Surfacare PQ10 Polyquaternium 10 Conditioner

Tego® Betain F50 Cocamidopropyl Betaine Surfactant

Surfac G995V Glycerin Humectant

STEOL® CS 230 HA Sodium Laureth Sulfate Surfactant


VARISOFT® EQ 100 Bis-(Isostearoyl/Oleoyl Isopropyl) Dimonium

Methosulfate Conditioner

Tego® Sulfosuccinate DO75 Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate Surfactant/Emulsifier

Saliguard COS Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorophenesin Preservative

Givaudan Cherry Glow Parfum Fragrance


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• Simple emulsion

• Could be used as mild daily face wash or for removing

make up

• Uses surfactants in place of traditional emulsifiers to aid

cleansing

Face Cleansing Lotion


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Face Cleansing Lotion


Water Aqua -

Stepan-Mild® GCC Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate Emulsifier

Surfacare L30 Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate Emulsifier

AAK Olive Oil Olea Europaea Oil Oil

Givaudan Blueberry Fizz Parfum Fragrance

Saliguard CGZ Caprylyl Glycol, 1, 3 Propane Diol Preservative


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High Oil Cream

• Carbopol® stabilised emulsion

• Could be used as a day or night cream

• Can be used as a stable base for addition of active

cosmetic ingredients


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High Oil Cream


Water Aqua -

Carbopol® Ultrez 20 Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Emulsion Stabiliser

Bio-terge® AS- 40 HA SB Sodium C14-16 olefin sulphonate Emulsifier

Tego® Betain P50 C Cocamidopropyl betaine Emulsifier

Glucam™ E-10 Methyl Gluceth-10 Humectant

Surfac G995V Glycerine Humectant

Surfac TELA99 Triethanolamine pH adjuster


Schercemol™ NGDO Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate Oil

AAK Olive Oil Olea Europaea Oil Oil

Saliguard CGZ Caprylyl Glycol, 1,3 Propane Diol Preservative

Tego® Sulfosuccinate DO75 Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate Emulsifier

Givaudan Soothing 71 Parfum Fragrance


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Wide range of exotic & functional oils

Oils

Viatenza

Water

Dispersible

Ubuntu

African

Oils

Natural

Oils


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Key Technologies


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Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate

Tego® Sulfosuccinate DO75

• Oil soluble anionic

surfactant

• Offers good foaming

properties even in high

oil formulations

• Provides excellent

emulsion stability

• Recommended addition

5 – 20%


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Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate

Crosspolymer

Carbopol® Ultrez 20

• Provides excellent thickening and oil suspension

• Electrolyte stable

• Non-tacky skin feel

• Provides exceptional emulsion stability

• Recommended addition 0.2 – 0.5%

• Easy to disperse polymer


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Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate

Stepan-Mild® GCC

• Low HLB non-ionic

surfactant

• Thickener and foam

enhancer

• Alternative to Cocamide

DEA

• Ability to suspend

without the need for

polymers

• Excellent solubiliser


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Skin image analyser before and 1hr after 5% Viamerine application

Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglyceride

Viamerine®

• Cost effective active

material

• Clinically proven anti-

ageing and moisturising

benefits

• Naturally derived

• Oil soluble


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In Conclusion


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• Oils are widely used for their versatile properties

• Natural oils are gradually replacing synthetics

• Hair and cleansing are the fasting growing market segment

for oil use

In Conclusion


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• Niche applications using oils are becoming more

prominent

• Ingredient manufacturers have developed new

technologies specifically for use in combination

with oils

• Formulating with a high oil phase has never been

easier!

In Conclusion


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Please visit us at stand

228 for a copy of this

presentation and for

samples of our

formulations.

Thank you!


Surfachem Group Ltd

Registered @ 2nd Floor,

2 The Embankment, Sovereign Street,

Leeds, West Yorkshire, LS1 4BA, United

Kingdom.

Tel : +44 (0) 113 3949200

Fax: +44 (0) 113 3949201

Registered No 3269895.

Surfachem - a 2M Holdings Limited

Company.

[email protected]

www.surfachem.com

@

Twitter @surfachem

www.facebook.com/surfachem

www.linkedin.com/company/surfachem

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Registered trademark symbol indicates the property of the

product manufacturer

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