Trip Diary Leader: Jason Horn with Chris Achard & Carrie Piggott, Malcom Chettleburgh & Ko Yamamoto, Roger & Isobel Cresswell, Phil & Marion Hodgson and Geoff Nelson Our tour to the northern region of Costa Rica took in visits to the highland forest of the Poas Volcano, at nearly 9000ft, with its Black-and-yellow Silky-flycatchers and Yellow-winged Vireo; the Caribbean foothill rainforest surrounding the impressive Arenal Volcano and Emerald Tanagers and Broad-billed Motmots. The Caribbean lowland wetlands and forest patches of Caño Negro brought us Long-tailed Silky-flycatcher, Bare-throated Tiger Heron and Chestnut-coloured Woodpecker amongst many great species; and the lush cloud forest of Bosque de Paz Lodge at an elevation of 4700ft and an array of hummers - Purple-throated Mountaingem, Magnificent and Scintillant Hummingbirds amongst many. Such exciting landscapes guaranteed us a truly amazing variety of birds, and lots of memories... Day 1. Wednesday 17th April. This was a travel day for the group as they made their way to the San Jose Airport in the Central Valley of Costa Rica. Upon arrival they were met and transferred a short distance to Orquideas Inn for dinner and a restful night. Day 2. Thursday 18th April. We started our introduction to the birds of Costa Rica in the garden of our hotel. Here we saw the more common Rufous-naped Wren, Rufous-capped Warbler and Yellow-green Vireo as well as the uncommon Black Swift flying over. After breakfast, we departed for the cloudforest-draped Poas Volcano National Park for some highlands birding. We made several stops en route, our first stop produced Olive-sided Flycatcher, Golden-bellied Flycatcher, Dark Pewee, Mountain Elaenia, and the delicately marked Barred Becard. Once in the National Park we began to locate many of the highland specialities, which included Black-and-yellow Silky-flycatcher, Yellow-winged Vireo, Large-footed Finch, Black-billed Nightingale-Thrush, Sooty Thrush and Volcano Hummingbird. We left the park just after the clouds completely enshrouded us. As we made our way down the volcano, we had a Solitary Sandpiper at a small pond. Our next birding stop was at La Paz Waterfall Gardens where we arrived for our excellent lunch buffet. While eating lunch we were greeted by a pair of Immaculate (Blue-lored) Antbirds in the bushes and a Sooty-faced Finch that hopped around the dining room looking for scraps - what a surprise to see two difficult birds so well and so easily. After lunch we went to the nearby hummingbird gallery. The feeders were packed with hummingbirds of many different species including Purple-throated Mountaingem, Green Thorntail, Green-crowned Brilliant, Violet Sabrewing, Black-bellied Hummingbird and the endemic Coppery-headed Emerald. Other species seen at La Paz were the always-impressive Swallow-tailed Kite, White-collared Swift and the skulky Slaty-backed Nightingale-thrush. We returned to Orquideas Inn in the late afternoon for dinner, list and sleep.
Day 3. Friday 19th April. Today, we headed back across the Poas Volcano on our way to Caño Negro. At the highest pass we had nice views of Long-tailed Silky-flycatcher, which is a stunning bird that always rates as one of the top birds of the trip. Further along, and now on the Caribbean slope, we stopped at another feeding area where we added White-bellied Mountaingem and Bay-headed Tanager to name a few. Further downslope we stopped at a forested canyon known as the La Virgen del Socorro. New trip birds came quickly and included Black Phoebe and Torrent Tyrannulet along the river and a mixed flock nearby which included Black-and-yellow Tanager and Pale-vented Thrush. Soon after we noticed a White Hawk soaring overhead but it disappeared behind the hill only to be followed by its mate, which circled for a bit before perching in the open. Back up on the main road we made a quick stop at a small pond where we added Lesser Scaup and a Least Grebe to our growing list.
After a couple of hours driving north toward the Nicaraguan border we made our next birding stop at the Medio Queso Marsh. This proved to be very productive, with views of Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, Common Moorhen, Purple Gallinule and no less than three Pinnated Bitterns, a rare and local species in Costa Rica. Just before leaving this area we found a family group of Fork-tailed Flycatchers. On our way to Caño Negro we made a stop at dusk for stunning views of a Great Potoo hawking insects from underneath a light. This huge bird nocturnal bird put on a show, as it flew out right over our heads to catch insects attracted to the light. A few in the group had seen the species before on a day roost, but said this unforgettable experience was like seeing a life bird. We made our way to the comfortable air-conditions rooms of the Natural Lodge Caño Negro in time for dinner, list and of course, sleep. Day 4. Saturday 20th April. This morning we set off for our first of two boat rides on Lake Caño Negro, which is fed by the Rio Frio. We arrived to the boat dock later than expected due to the many birds we observed en route, which included the impressive Chestnut-coloured Woodpecker, Barred Antshrike and monotypic Limpkin. Just before boarding the boat we watched as a pair of Bare-throated Tiger Herons displayed: they walked slowly giving their low call with their necks fully extended. After getting on the boat we quickly found the rare and localized Nicaraguan Grackle, which was one of our main target birds of this area. On the boat ride there were plenty of birds present, including many Herons, Grey-necked Wood Rails, Anhingas, Green, Amazon and Ringed Kingfishers. Near a bar along the river we watched a Pacific Screech Owl in a roost hole. Shorebirds along the edge of the lagoon included Least and Pectoral Sandpipers, and both Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs. Around the bend we found several nocturnal feeding Boat-billed Herons on their day roost followed by a Grey-headed Dove feeding along the river. At the main lagoon we had many wading birds and several ducks including Lesser Scaup, Blue-winged Teal and Glossy Ibis. Back on the main river we had more Nicaraguan Grackles at their regular nesting site, with males in full display. Further down river we had a male American Pygmy Kingfisher followed by the much sought after Sungrebe. We watched this only member of the Finfoot family in the New World as it fed along the rivers edge. To avoid a Spectacled Caiman the bird flew up into the over hanging bushes which gave us the rare opportunity to see the black banded fins on its feet. Back on dry land we added the diminutive Northern Beardless Tyrannulet and Spot-breasted Wren. In the afternoon we took another boat trip, this time we headed down river. In the more wooded section we found an army ant swarm with attending Grey-necked Wood Rail, Groove-billed Ani, Yellow-billed Cacique and Grey-headed Tanager. A little farther down the river we got off the boat in order to properly scope a cooperative Pied Puffbird. Also present was a Cocoa Woodcreeper and a troop of Howler Monkeys. Now back in the boat, we continued birding the rivers edge and were able to locate both Slaty-tailed and Black-headed Trogons. After a nice dinner we went on a night drive and were rewarded with views of several Pauraques, Great Potoo, two singing Common Potoos and a Black-and-white Owl. This was a perfect ending to a fantastic day of birding in the Caño Negro area. Day 5. Sunday 21st April. We started our birding this day near the lodge, where both Slaty Spinetail and White-winged Becard showed well. We loaded up after breakfast and took a different road exiting Caño Negro. Our first notable find was a Bat Falcon sitting atop of a dead tree. Later, in a marshy habitat, we found Plumbeous Kite, Plain "Canebrake" Wren and an immaculate Snowy Cotinga. Other notables as we departed this area included Black-faced Grosbeak and Ruddy-breasted Seedeater. After lunch in La Fortuna and now in the Arenal Volcano area, we made a quick stop, which produced Tropical Mockingbird. In the Guava Groves just outside of Arenal National Park we had a family group of White-throated Magpie-jays that put on a show. Other notables en route to our lodge were both Keel-billed and Chestnut-mandibled Toucans. By late afternoon we arrived at our lodge for the next three nights, the beautiful Arenal Observatory Lodge located at the base of Arenal Volcano.
Day 6. Monday 22nd April. Just after dawn, our group gathered on the main porch of the lodge, overlooking the fruit feeding station, for our pre-breakfast bird walk. With the volcano as a backdrop, we watched the feeders come alive with colourful tropical birds, which included Montezuma Oropendolas, a variety of tanagers and several honeycreeper species. After this we headed off to bird the surrounding property: along a verbena flowering hedge we watched many species of hummingbirds that included Brown Violet-ear, White-necked Jacobin, Blue-throated Goldentail, Steely-vented and Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds. Their constant territorial chasing of each other was very entertaining. Fruiting trees in the garden produced up-close-and-personal views of the very large Crested Guans. On the forest trails we had an agitated White-breasted Wood Wren, which was quite upset as it was not able to deter a Lichen-coloured Slugeater Snake from eating its nestlings. The snake was hanging by the tip of its tail from the nest as it swallowed the baby wrens. After this sighting we decided to head back for some breakfast of our own, nestling White-breasted Wood Wrens were not on our menu, however... Back on the forest trails after breakfast we found many birds including Great Curassow, Black-headed Nightingale-thrush, and both Bicolored and Spotted Antbirds. In the afternoon we headed down the entrance road of the lodge where a Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant showed well at the first stop. Farther down the road we got good looks at Broad-billed Motmot and Rufous-tailed Jacamar and just inside the forest we had fantastic views of Thicket Antpitta and Uniform Crake; two very difficult species to observe. Down at the bridge over a small river our driver spotted a Sunbittern and managed to get most of the group on it before it disappeared…to be continued. This proved to be a very rewarding day of birding in Costa Rica. Day 7. Tuesday 23rd April. Focusing on species we had not seen yet, we headed back into the forest trails where we were lucky to watch the normally elusive Nightingale Wren as it sang from a close perch near the ground. In a more open area we found nesting Long-tailed Tyrants followed by yet another White Hawk. After breakfast we departed for the Arenal Hanging Bridges, which is made up of forested trails with several suspension bridges, canopy walkways some would say, over the deep forested gullies. Before entering the trails, an Ornate Hawk-eagle flew over, calling as it disappeared into the forest. On the trails we had many highlights, including a group of four Broad-billed Motmots sitting low over the trail, a very cooperative Purplish-backed Quail-dove that walked around totally unconcerned by our presence, and a Tawny-faced Gnatwren that moved through the understorey of this beautiful forest. With a tip from one of the local guides we got to see an Eye-lash Viper along the trail. While crossing one of the bridges we had excellent views of a pair of beautiful Emerald Tanagers building a nest on a close limb just below eye level. Further along the trail we watched the entertaining White-collared Manakins as they displayed for potential on-looking females. In their display the males bounce like popcorn popping between small saplings around a small arena that they have cleared on the forest floor. The loud snapping and passing of gas noises is actually produced with their wings. After leaving this incredible spectacle we had a family group of Central American Spider Monkeys and a most impressive Rufous Motmot. The afternoon found us exploring the forested edges of Lake Arenal, where we were able to find Gartered Trogon, Fasciated Antshrike, Black-headed Tody-flycatcher and the rare and local Keel-billed Motmot. We only managed fleeting views of an almost non-responsive Bare-crowned Antbird. On the way back to the lodge we found a Fasciated Tiger Heron feeding amongst the boulders in the river to finish off yet another great day of birding in the Arenal Volcano area. Day 8. Wednesday 24th April. Our final morning in the Arenal area had us out on the lodge trails early hoping for a few more species. We were not disappointed as we scored a cooperative Ocellated Antbird that was hanging out near the path. Our next find was a pair of less cooperative Semiplumbeous Hawks; on the way to breakfast a male Great Curassow gave us a great show as it walked around on the lawn. After we loaded up and departed the lodge, our main goal this morning was to relocate the Sunbittern that eluded some in the group two days prior. We were lucky, finding the Sunbittern sitting on its nest located on a horizontal branch near the edge of the river. This time everybody got to enjoy this fantastic and unique bird.
En route to our next lodge we stopped to see a Brown-throated (Three-toed) Sloth alongside the road; after getting out of the van for ‘scope views, we noticed that it was carrying a baby on its belly. We eventually arrived to the cloud forested Bosque de Paz Lodge, where one could not help but marvel at the many species of hummingbirds attending the feeders. These included Green Hermit, Purple-throated Mountaingem, Magnificent and Scintillant Hummingbirds. On the cracked corn feeders we saw Black Guan, Chestnut-capped Brush Finch and Silver-throated Tanager among others. Elsewhere in the garden of the lodge we enjoyed watching a family group of beautiful Golden-browed Chlorophonias, a nesting pair of Red-faced Spinetail, and a curious Ruddy-capped Nightingale-thrush hopping around the parking lot. At a viewing site along the river we scored another target, the American Dipper. We watched a pair of these delightful birds amongst the river rocks as they bobbed in and out of the water in search of prey. Also in the area was a pair of Torrent Tyrannulets, which hunt insects typically over the water. Our luck continued in finding a cooperative Collared Trogon followed by nice views of an Azure-headed Jay to finish off another lovely day of birding in Costa Rica. Day 9. Thursday 25th April. On our final morning of the tour we birded around the lodge as well as the forested trails. We encountered a couple of nice feeding flocks where we were able to pick out Spot-crowned Woodcreeper, Lineated Foliage-gleaner, Brown-capped Vireo, Three-striped and Golden-crowned Warblers. In the afternoon we made our way back to the Central Valley and eventually the San Jose airport in time for the International departure flight. Thanks to all of the participants for making this inaugural Northern Costa Rica Tour so memorable and I hope to see you on the Limosa Costa Rica Classic Tour in the near future.
Jason Horn
ANNOTATED LIST OF BIRDS RECORDED (total of 347 species recorded by the group)
Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui
HEARD ONLY - in Arenal area the 23rd Grey-headed Chachalaca Ortalis cinereiceps
Many at Caño Negro and in Arenal area the 21st-24th Crested Guan Penelope purpurascens
Several at Arenal the 22nd-24th Black Guan Chamaepetes unicolor
Several at Bosque de Paz the 24th-25th Great Curassow Crax rubra
Two males at Arenal Observatory Lodge the 22nd & 24th Black-bellied Whistling Duck Dendrocygna autumnalis
Several in the lowlands including Caño Negro the 19th-20th Blue-winged Teal Anas discors
Several at Caño Negro the 20th Lesser Scaup Aythya affinis
One on pond below La Virgen the 19th and four at Caño Negro the 20th Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus
One on pond below La Virgen the 19th Wood Stork Mycteria ibis
Many in Caño Negro area the 20th-21st Green Ibis Mesembrinibis cayennensis
Two seen flying at Caño Negro the 21st White Ibis Eudocimus albus
Caño Negro the 20th-21st Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus
Steely-vented Hummingbird Amazilia saucerrottei Arenal Observatory Lodge the 22nd-24th
Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer Chalybura urochrysia Arenal Observatory Lodge the 22nd
White-bellied Mountaingem Lampornis hemileucus La Paz Waterfall Garden on the 19th
Purple-throated Mountaingem Lampornis calolaemus La Paz Waterfall Garden the 18th and Bosque de Paz the 24th-25th
Green-crowned Brilliant Heliodoxa jacula La Paz Waterfall Garden the 18th-19th and Bosque de Paz the 24th-25th
Magnificent Hummingbird Eugenes fulgens Bosque de Paz the 24th-25th
Volcano Hummingbird Selasphorus flammula Poas Volcano NP the 18th; this subspecies simoni is known as Cerise-throated Hummingbird
Scintillant Hummingbird Selasphorus scintilla Bosque de Paz the 24th- 25th
Black-headed Trogon Trogon melanocephalus Caño Negro the 20th-21st
Gartered Trogon Trogon caligatus Arenal area the 23rd; formerly called Violaceous Trogon
Collared Trogon Trogon collaris One at Bosque de Paz the 24th
Orange-bellied Trogon Trogon auratiiventris One at Arenal Observatory Lodge the 24th
Black-throated Trogon Trogon rufus Two in Arenal area the 23rd
Slaty-tailed Trogon Trogon massena Caño Negro the 20th
Resplendent Quetzal Pharomachrus mocinno HEARD ONLY - at Poas Volcano the 18th
American Pygmy Kingfisher Chloroceryle aenea One male on the Caño Negro boat ride the 20th
Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana Many in Caño Negro area, again in Arenal area
Amazom KingfisherChloroceryle amazona Many in Caño Negro area, again in Arenal area
Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata Most wetland areas
Blue-crowned Motmot Motmotus motmota HEARD ONLY - at Orquideas Inn the 18th-19th
Rufous Motmot Baryphthengus martii One in Arenal area the 23rd
Keel-billed Motmot Electron carinatum One in Arenal area the 23rd
Broad-billed Motmot Electron platyrhynchum Arenal area the 22nd-23rd
Collared Aracari Pteroglossus torquatus Common on the Caribbean slope and lowlands
Keel-billed Toucan Ramphastos sulfuratus Common on the Caribbean slope
Chestnut-mandibled Toucan Ramphastos (ambiguus) swainsonii Common in the Caribbean foothills and lowlands. This species has gone through many name changes and is now lumped with Black-mandibled Toucan of South American according to the AOU. Other taxonomy lists have it as Yellow-throated Toucan.
Prong-billed Barbet Semnornis frantzii La Paz Waterfall Garden the 18th
Black-cheeked Woodpecker Melanerpes pucherani Widespread in Caribbean foothills and lowlands
Hoffmann's Woodpecker Melanerpes hoffmannii Common in suitable habitat including Orquideas Inn and Caño Negro
Hairy Woodpecker Picoides villosus HEARD ONLY - at Poas Volcano the 18th
Rufous-winged Woodpecker Piculus simplex Heard and seen flying around on the Caño Negro boat ride the 20th
Golden-olive Woodpecker Piculus rubiginosus HEARD ONLY – at Bosque de Paz the 25th Chestnut-coloured Woodpecker Celeus castaneus Caño Negro the 20th Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus
Caño Negro and Arenal the 20th-22nd Rufous-tailed Jacamar Galbula ruficauda
Arenal the 22nd-23rd Pied Puffbird Notharchus tectus
Caño Negro area the 20th-21st White-collared Manakin Manacus candei
Arenal area the 23rd Black-crowned Tityra Tityra inquisitor
Caño Negro area the 20th-21st Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata
One seen briefly at Caño Negro the 21st Barred Becard Pacyramphus versicolor
Two on Poas Volcano the 18th Cinnamon Becard Pachyramphus cinnamomeus
Widespread in Caribbean lowlands and foothills White-winged Becard Pacyramphus polychopterus
Caño Negro the 21st Snowy Cotinga Carpodectes nitidus
One in Caño Negro area the 21st Greenish Elaenia Myiopagis viridicata
Caño Negro the 20th-21st Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster
Widespread in foothills and lowlands throughout the areas we visited Mountain Elaenia Elaenia frantzii
Several in the highlands including Poas Volcano and Bosque de Paz Northern Beardless Tyrannulet Camptostoma imberbe
Caño Negro the 20th Torrent Tyrannulet Serpophaga cinerea
Bosque de Paz the 24th Yellow Tyrannulet Capsiempis flaveola
Several in Caño Negro area and Arenal area Paltry Tyrannulet Zimmerius vilissimus
Widespread and fairly common throughout Olive-striped Flycatcher Mionectes olivaceus
Bosque de Paz the 24th Ochre-bellied Flycatcher Mionectes oleagineus
Arenal the 22nd-23rd Slaty-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon superciliaris
HEARD ONLY - at Arenal the 22nd Slaty Antwren Myrmotherula schisticolor
Seen poorly at Arenal the 22nd Dot-winged Antwren Microrhopias quixensis
HEARD ONY - at Arenal the 23rd Dusky Antbird Cercomacra tyrannina
Caño Negro the 21st Dull-mantled Antbird Myrmeciza laemosticta
HEARD ONLY - at Arenal the 23rd Immaculate Antbird Myrmeciza immaculata
A pair at La Paz Waterfall Garden the 18th. Recently renamed Blue-lored Antbird, SACC 2013, to differentiate it from the newly ‘split’ Zeledon’s Antbird.
Bicolored Antbird Gymnopithys leucaspis Arenal the 22nd
Ocellated Antbird Phaenostictus mcleannani Arenal the 23rd
Spotted Antbird Hylophylax naevioides Arenal the 22nd-23rd
Silvery-fronted Tapaculo Scytalopus argentifrons HEARD ONLY - on Poas Volcano the 18th
Thicket Antpitta Hylopezus dives One seen well at Arenal the 22nd; listed as Fulvous-bellied Antpitta on some taxonomy lists
Slaty Spinetail Synallaxis brachyura Caño Negro and Arenal the 21st-22nd
Red-faced Spinetail Cranioleuca erythrops Poas Volcano the 18th and Bosque de Paz the 24th
Lineated Foliage-gleaner Syndactyla subalaris One at Bosque de Paz the 25th
Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner Automolus ochrolaemus Arenal the 23rd
Streak-breasted Treehunter Thripaectes rufobrunneus HEARD ONLY - at Bosque de Paz the 24th
Plain Xenops Xenops minutus Common in Caribbean lowland and foothill forests in mixed flocks
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper Glyphorhynchus spirurus Widespread in lowlands to mid-elevations in good forest
Cocoa Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus susurrans Caño Negro the 20th
Streak-headed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes souleyetii Widespread in lowlands to mid-elevations, the common woodcreeper of secondary growth
Spot-crowned Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes affinis Bosque de Paz the 24th; highland version of the previous species
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis One at Bosque de Paz the 25th
Yellow-winged Vireo Vireo carmioli Poas Volcano the 18th and Bosque de Paz the 26th
