CQL_Winter_2014

WINTER 2014

INSIDE: The Drake Devonshire, Water Buffalo, Murder, and so much more. . .

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4 COUNTY & QUINTE LIVING WINTER 2014

14LAZIER MURDER TRIALJustice or Vengeance?by Peter Lockyer

22KEMP STEWARTVeteran, Vinter, Visionaryby Catherine Stutt

30STIRLING’S WATER BUFFALOby Cindy Duffy

36THE DRAKE DEVONSHIREby Catherine Stutt

48VOLCANOES OF ICE AND OTHER WONDERS by Sharon Harrison

54ADOLPHUSTOWN REDUXThe United Empire Loyalist Centre and the Daverne Farmby Lindi Pierce

66SAITARG’S GQMichael MacMillanby Alan Gratias

IN THIS ISSUEEACH ISSUE AVAILABLE ONLINE AT: www.countyandquinteliving.ca

PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY AND QUINTE REGION

ON THE COVERAfter the ice storm at Hillier Creek. Photo by Daniel Vaughan.

5COUNTY & QUINTE LIVING WINTER 2014

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DIRECTOR OF SPECIALTY PUBLICATIONSRon Prins

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EDITORCatherine Stutt

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PHOTO EDITORDaniel Vaughan

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ADVERTISING EXECUTIVELaura Dawson 613.966.2034 x 505

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DESIGN & PRODUCTIONKathern Bly and Monica McTaggartSusan K. Bailey Marketing & Design

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CONTRIBUTING WRITERSCindy DuffyAlan Gratias

Sharon Harrison

Peter LockyerLindi Pierce

Catherine Stutt

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Sharon HarrisonRamesh Pooran

Daniel Vaughan

ADMINISTRATION Heather Naish [email protected]

DISTRIBUTIONPaul Mitchell 613.966.2034 x 508

County & Quinte Living is published quarterly and is available free of charge through strategic partners, wineries, golf courses, real estate, and chamber of commerce offices, retail outlets, and advertiser locations. County & Quinte Living may not be reproduced, in part or whole, in any form without prior written consent of the publisher. Views expressed by contributors are their own opinions and do not necessarily reflect the views or opinions of County & Quinte Living. Subscription rate $25 a year. HST included. County & Quinte Living is a division of Metroland Media Group Ltd.

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Catherine Stutt, Editor, County and Quinte [email protected]

ourtrooms have always held a certain fascination for me,

so when Peter Lockyer called to tell me about a re-enactment of a famous Prince Edward County murder trial he had my full attention. The original and re-enactment trials were held in the same courtroom which hadn’t changed much, and the courtroom was the venue for young John A. Macdonald’s first trial.

I used to cover murder trials, and my husband at various times throughout his policing career served as a court officer. Courtrooms evoke a certain reverence for a time-honoured process, particularly a jury trial. It is a sacred trust, putting a person’s life in the hands of 12 jurors who are expected to learn intricate legal and scientific nuances while absorbing gruesome details, often about someone they know. For the most part, it works, other than that entire O.J. Simpson fiasco, and the three high profile Canadian cases of Marshall, Milgaard, and Morin.

Thanks to Justice Robert Sharpe, whose book The Lazier Murder tells a sad story of Canadian justice at

the time, and to Peter for producing the re-enactment, we can now add Thomset and Lowder to the list.

Darryl and I met Peter in Bloomfield and drove a short distance to the sight of the murder where the house still stands. He related the story much as he does in his article in this issue, all while standing at the side of the Loyalist Highway in front of the scene of the crime. It was a beautiful early summer day, completely different from that cold December night in 1884.

Peter is a natural storyteller and a passionate advocate of history as an industry, devoting countless volunteer hours to local organizations. His History Lives Here series chronicles important events in the region’s history, and connects us with our past.

Even so, when Peter told me the tickets were $125 each, and I’d better reserve one because they were going fast, I thought he’d lost his mind. Who, besides committed courtroom junkies and the most serious of history buffs would spend $125 to see a 90-minute performance of a 130-year-old event.

About 140 of us, it turned out, not counting all of those tardy souls who were on a waiting list.

It was a magnificent performance, well paced, and disturbing, far more so when we toured the old gaol and gallows. It became more than a play when we walked the same path those young men took, wondering if one or both of them were not guilty of the crime for which they hanged.

To write about this region well is to write about its colourful and important history, to see who we were before we became who we are. Peter, Justice Sharpe, and all involved in the re-enactment know this. They know history can sell; history can be a contributing economic factor to any community, and a very interesting one at that. They are so certain of it, they are contemplating repeating the event in 2015, so if you see the tickets available, act with haste. History waits for no one.

In 1977, I had the good fortunate to be in a Canadian history class taught by Mr. Petersen. He was patiently passionate about sparking our curiosity, instilling a love of the subject rather than just a recitation of the facts. He wasn’t teaching history, he was teaching us to love learning. He left part way through the year, disappearing from our lives, but never forgotten.

In mid-November, the day after shipping this magazine to press, I’m off to Kingston to see Ed Petersen who at 80 and thanks to Facebook has been able to reconnect with his past. I’m honoured to be part of it and have always appreciated the gifts he bestowed upon his students.

I don’t think I can call him Ed, as he has invited me to do. That wouldn’t seem right. He’s Mr. Petersen, and he’s a history teacher. And frankly, 37 years since I last saw him, I’m still a little intimidated.

Go find your history, and send a former teacher a note.

Thanks for turning the page.

from the

Editor’s Desk


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Justice or vengeance?The Lazier murder trial of 1884


The packed crowd jostled into the stout, curved, and bum-numbing wooden benches of the Picton courthouse on July 11, 2014 settling in expectantly for the lively entertainment and rough justice to come – a re-enactment of the most infamous legal case in Prince Edward County history, the Lazier Murder Trial of 1884.

The re-enactment was a fundraising event for the Macdonald Project of Prince Edward County to celebrate the country’s first prime minister and the County’s most famous citizen. A bronze sculpture of Sir John A. Macdonald will be unveiled in downtown Picton in 2015, the 200th anniversary of his birth. More than 140 people paid $125 for a ticket to witness history.

The modern-day crowd was encouraged to be rowdy, to cheer the prosecution, and to jeer and heckle the defence, and they did. Their frequent outbursts over the next 90 minutes mimicked the tense moments of the original week-long murder trial 130 years earlier that prompted several threats from the judge to clear the courtroom. Back then, the intimidating antics of the courtroom crowd also sent a strong message to 12 local men sitting as jurors considering the conflicting evidence against George Lowder, his brother David, and Joseph Thomset – evidence that meant life or death to the three West Lake men.

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Just as it was in the past, David Lowder was quickly acquitted of all charges. There was no mercy for his brother George, aged 23, and his co-accused Thomset, a 35-year old fisherman. The limitations of the imperfect laws of the times, shoddy police work, and an outraged community all conspired to sentence them to their deaths by hanging in the early hours of June 10, 1884. That too was an ugly botched affair that only added to the regrets and soul-searching of a community left to wonder if they sentenced the right men – the only men ever hanged in Prince Edward County. Decades later, the case still haunted the community making other local juries reluctant to pronounce guilty verdicts as the grim story of the Lazier Murder Trial deeply embedded itself into the folklore of this small, rural place.

“My fascination with this case started as I was growing up in Picton and I heard people talk about it,” says Justice Robert Sharpe of the Ontario Court of Appeal, and author of the book, The Lazier Murder: Prince Edward County 1884. “I thought, how can they still be talking about a case that happened all

those years ago? That’s what grabbed me, so I decided to do some research and I saw there was a real story to be told.”

Justice Sharpe’s research became a book released in 2002. The story began in the winter of 1883 with a failed robbery and murder which took place in an old

farmhouse that still stands just outside of the village of Bloomfield. Three masked men knocked on the door of Quaker couple Gilbert and Margaret Jones around 10 p.m. on a mid-December night demanding money. That day, Gilbert Jones, a farmer, received a $550 payment for his hops at

the train station in Bloomfield. A shot was fired during the robbery attempt and a guest in their home, Peter Lazier, was killed.

Within hours a posse of local men followed intermittent tracks left in the snow leading them across West Lake to the homes of George and David Lowder and their neighbour Joseph Thomset. By the next morning, all three men were locked up in cells at the Picton gaol as police officials closely examined their boots, key evidence linking them to the crime.

Much of the testimony at their trial in May 1884 centred upon the patch bottom boots they wore – the most common boots worn by working men of the period. Ill-trained, local police assisted by Belleville’s overly zealous police chief Hugh McKinnon were convinced they had the right men, although the tracks were intermittent, no weapon was ever found, and both men had witnesses confirming their


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presence elsewhere at the time of the murder. The Quaker wife originally testified the three men involved in the robbery attempt appeared taller than the accused men, but reversed her opinion in the courtroom perhaps as a result of some coaching from Chief McKinnon. Her husband testified one robber had a rolling gait as he fled into the night, as if he were an older man troubled with an injury that hampered his flight. None of the accused men suffered this difficulty.

Other legal constraints conspired against Lowder and Thomset. Although it found them guilty, the jury recommended clemency, an appeal that had no influence on their fate. The dictates of the laws of the period meant they simply had to hang if they were found guilty of murder.

“At the time of the trial, these accused men were not allowed to testify, “said Justice Sharpe. “That seems to be very strange to us, but it was accepted at the time. At the time

of this trial, there was no formal appeal in the sense that we now

know it. These issues are legally interesting and intriguing in terms of understanding how our legal system has evolved… so it’s a lot about community, and community justice as well as legal history and evolution.”

During the few short weeks after their conviction, Lowder and Thomset remained confined in narrow cells forced to listen to the construction of gallows, and the sounds of their graves being dug in the exercise yard of the courthouse. Their families visited along with two local clergymen urging them to confess their sins. The convicted men remained adamant about their innocence, and convinced the clergymen to join others such as Picton lawyer Edwards Merrill in developing a petition to appeal to Prime Minister John A. Macdonald for intervention in the case.

Macdonald was familiar with Picton and its courthouse. He held his very first court case in the same courtroom in 1834. Even the prime minister was bound by legal and political conventions of the period.

“At the time, people really believed in the jury. We still do, but we don’t to the same extent,” said Justice Sharpe. “They felt it was a guarantee of fairness and getting the right result and so as a politician, as a prime minister, he would be very reluctant to change a jury’s verdict. He thought that’s the jury’s job. They heard the evidence; he didn’t. They convicted these men. It wasn’t up to Macdonald to say the jury was wrong.”

Just before 8 o’clock on the morning of June 10, 1884, Lowder and Thomset were led from their cells down the dim, narrow hallway to the gallows that still stand on the second floor of the courthouse. The local sheriff, a doctor, and the clergymen watched as a hangman imported from southwestern Ontario went about his grim task. A small crowd of guests watched from below in the prison exercise yard. As the church bells throughout the community tolled that fateful hour, the two men swung to their deaths. Louder died first, but Thomset struggled for a full 14 minutes.

Both men left behind poignant letters for their families.

Dear kind and loving Mother,

T hese are my last and dying words. I am ready to die,

but I die for something I never did. I never was in

Gilbert Jones’ house in 15 years. I never saw Jones

get any money at the station. But I must say that it is

like all the stories that is told about me.

Mrs. Jones swore at the examination the men were

larger than we, and at the trial that we look just like

the men. She said the man that fired the fatal shot had

on a grey suit of tweed. I had on my black clothes that

day. T hey say I fired the shot, but thank God I was

not there to fire any shot so I cannot confess to the

crime, nor I never will. Believe me I am innocent. I

declare to God these my last words. I die an innocent

man. My heart aches for my sweet little girl, but

God will take care of her and you all. Goodbye and

farewell forever until we meet in a better world.

Your loving son, brother, husband and father,

Joseph T homset


The hangman collected $40 for his services and another $6.50 for refreshments while his prisoners were - according to legend - laid to rest in the prison grounds, as was the custom. Two trees stand over their graves today.

One of the enduring aspects of this infamous case is the mystery that continues to envelope it. The Lowder family appealed to Sheriff Gillespie to collect the body of

their son and a record of the sheriff ’s letter seeking direction from federal justice officials remains in the trial files at Library and Archives Canada in Ottawa. There is no record of a response to Gillespie, but some years ago, a sunken pauper’s grave was discovered in Picton’s Glenwood Cemetery. The crude stone marking the grave had a short, simple engraving, “G. Lowder, Unjustly Hanged 1884.” If this is truly Lowder’s final

resting place, it is a huge statement by the community on his innocence. Burying a convicted murder on consecrated ground was a simply unthinkable act far outside Victorian conventions.

There is still more mystery to this long ago case. Two days after the re-enactment, a County man came forward to talk about the scuffed, black boots displayed as evidence at the re-enactment trial. His grandfather, he

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stated, found the boots hidden in a wall in a Picton home he was renovating decades ago, and the family had donated them to the Macaulay Museum in Picton.

The report adds yet more intrigue to this unsolved murder mystery. Why would anyone hide a pair of old patch bottom boots in a wall unless these were the ones worn by the real guilty man?

“This case,” stated Justice Sharpe,” is rooted in the memory of this community. Those

gallows are still there. Those cells where the men were kept are still there. That courtroom looks very much today as it did in 1884. The case is part of this community’s

story so I think it is terribly important we mark these events - that we look back to our history, and celebrate it.”

The enduring interest in the Lazier Murder Trial and the sold out performance of its recent re-enactment also demonstrate the marketplace for history. This story of early justice is a riveting tale with national appeal.

“The re-enactment was a great success,” says David Warrick, the chair of the small, volunteer Macdonald Project Committee.

“There’s no question everyone who attended the event appreciated it. This is a story linking John A. Macdonald’s early years in Picton to a trial taking place 50 years after

his very first trial in the same courtroom in 1834, and during the period in the 1880s when he was Canada’s prime minister. It is one story of many stories in Prince Edward County saleable to the public. I think we need to tell more stories like this.”

In many parts of the world history sells – big time - and just like other products made in Prince Edward County and elsewhere in the area, history can be considered a commodity retailed to the world – to the 68 million people who Google the word ‘history’ every month. As local municipalities search for scarce sources of money, they could consider getting into the history business. The raw resources are there – the great narratives of Canada from First Nations’ history, French exploration by intrepid travelers like Samuel de Champlain, Loyalist settlement, and industrial, war, and political history that documents a time when the region was at the very epicentre of Canada. We already own retail outlets for the business – the history factories that are our archives, cemeteries, libraries, museums, and other heritage properties.

Heritage isn’t free. It has come at an enormous cost to previous generations. To neglect its great potential as an economic driver and rallying force for community pride of place is a squandered inheritance.


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Kemp Stewart

ost visitors to Prince Edward have a destination in mind. Perhaps it is the mysterious Lake on the Mountain, the vast dunes of Sandbanks Provincial Park, or the boutique districts.

For an elite group, there is a very specific destination, a waypoint literally with their name on it. For the members of 429 Transport Squadron from 8 Wing/CFB Trenton, they head for Hillier Creek Estates. Unlike other

visitors to the winery, they arrive with a different mode of transportation – the might Boeing CC-177 Globemaster III.

Granted, they don’t actually land there while practicing short field landings and take offs at Canadian Forces Station Mountain View in nearby Ameliasburgh. They’re just checking the paint on the backside of the roof and letting their Honorary Colonel Kemp Stewart know they’re

thinking of him.

A few years ago, Glenn Rainbird spoke with Kemp about a friend who was interested in wine and wondered if he could drop by the winery for a chat. At the time, Glenn was the Honorary Colonel of 8 Wing, and he and Lieutenant Colonel Jason Stark took the 20-minute trip from 8 Wing to Hillier Creek.

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“I was being interviewed for the honorary colonel position and didn’t know it,” remembered Kemp. “One day when we were cycling Glenn mentioned Jason was enthusiastic about wines and I invited them out. He was interested in my military career and we had a great visit. It was all a setup and I didn’t see it coming. When he asked if I would consider being the squadron’s honorary colonel, I was surprised and honoured.”

Jason recalled the visit and said it didn’t take long to realize Kemp was a perfect fit. “The role of the honorary colonel is to create linkages between the squadron and the local community. We were looking for someone with deep connections and Kemp certainly met all the criteria. He’s committed to the area as a business owner and leader.”

Typically honorary colonels are either retired from the military or high profile in the community. “Kemp is both,” noted Jason. “That was important because 429 is an operational squadron supporting missions around the world. 8 Wing is a huge part of the region and 429 is a huge part of 8 Wing. Kemp got that right away.”

Jason quickly realized getting Kemp brought an added bonus – his wife Dr. Amber Hayward-Stewart. “They are immensely dedicated to fundraising for military causes and as a local doctor Amber’s ties to the community are equally impressive. She’s an amazing person.”

Wanting an honorary colonel who was part of the community and could speak on the squadron’s behalf meant showing him what the squadron does. “We took Kemp to the Arctic, to Alert


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and Resolute Bay and to Thule, Greenland to familiarize him with some of our missions,” said Jason. “He has a lifetime of experience to share, and he is great for morale.”

In turn, Kemp welcomed 429 to his world. He and Amber had a large portion of the squadron and their spouses to the winery for dinner, and they continue to give a special welcome to visiting squadron members.

“Kemp gave us a code word to use at the winery so his staff know we’re part of the squadron,” explained Lt.-Col. Jean Maisonneuve, the squadron’s current commanding officer. “We are very proud of the Colonel’s Cuvée,” he continued, with reference to Hillier Creek’s red wine with a graphic of a Globemaster III on the label.

“Kemp is a mentor for me. He’s very involved with the squadron, coming in sometimes to just walk with me and chat with members. He attends family days, parties, and mess activities and is as much a part of the squadron as any of us. He flies with us, and he and Amber are supportive of our mission. He is very supportive of the families, and it makes a difference to our members.”

That awareness of the hardship on military families is deeply ingrained in Kemp Stewart’s history. When asked where he is from, he replied, “I’m not from anywhere.” Born in Brandon, Manitoba when his father was posted at Shiloh, he moved around like thousands of other military kids, never putting down roots. He finished high school and started university in Kansas City. He joined the RCMP in 1967 and spent the next five years moving around. He travelled Europe for a year and then worked for The Keg, first as a waiter and eventually finding property for the chain and opening new restaurants, on the road again.

He settled for a while in Edmonton at the University of Alberta, majoring in commerce and adult education with a minor in physical fitness. He saw a sign for the reserves –he was a reservist in high school – and joined the military.

He met Amber, who was also in the military, and they spent the first five years of their marriage apart. Kemp was in Europe serving in various capacities, including as a sector logistics officer in Croatia while seconded to the United Nations. A six-month posting turned into 18 months. Amber was in medical school – first earning a PhD in psychiatry from Carleton University and then her MD from McMaster. She is now taking courses at Osgoode Law School for a Masters of Health Law. In addition to her ongoing work as an emergency room physician at Picton Memorial Hospital, Amber is a coroner. Between that, growing more


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than 100 varieties of roses, and helping run a vineyard and winery, she and Kemp fundraise for the Military Family Resource Centre, the Wounded Warrior Foundation, and PTSD support groups.

As ingrained in the community as they are, there were many tenuous steps in the large leap of faith.

Kemp spent his off hours in Europe quickly coming to the realization European wines at the time were superior to those in Canada. He smiled at what he described as years spent studying varieties and chateaux and learning to love Cabernet Sauvignon. A plan began to form, a vision lodged, and a dream retirement took root.

In 2000, still active in the Canadian Forces and posted to CFB Kingston, Kemp and a family friend happened upon what was known locally as the Badgely farm at the corner of Loyalist Highway and Stapleton Road.

The friend wanted to be a subsistence farmer and loved the front pasture. Kemp envisioned what it could be. “I remember

standing at the corner looking over the field and imaging a vineyard and the barn reconstructed and a Victorian/Loyalist style house to reflect the community and its history,” Kemp recalled. “It was such a clear image.”

He spent the weekend taking soil samples and gathering profiles and within a week Kemp and his friend owned the farm, which had been all but abandoned. Local farmers used some of the land, but no one had lived in the house for 15 years. Amber didn’t see the property until March 2001, and shortly thereafter the friend was posted away and the Stewarts became the sole owners.

In 2002, 2003, and 2004, they planted 10,000 plants each year, knowing it would take at least four or five years for the vines to mature to what Kemp calls their adolescence. They finished building the charming home in 2005, and the focus turned to the barn.

There was a viable shipbuilding industry for 75 years in nearby Pleasant Bay and when the shipwrights weren’t in the shipyard, they built barns, including the one at Hillier Creek. “It was built in 1860. Abraham Lincoln was president. We had to save it,” insisted Kemp.

The logistics officer’s plans went a little astray at that point. The barn was built in a common style of the era. There was no


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foundation – just the barn on the ground. The intervening 140 years had not been kind to the structure, and finding the right contractor took a couple of years. By 2008, Kemp and Amber put the barn in the hands of Trenton-based builder Bill Knegt. Along with Ernie Margetson who is known for his engineering and architectural expertise and passion for saving barns, hope returned.

Kemp remembered a key member of the team – a 72-year-old from Kingston who was the first onsite every morning. He learned house moving in Holland and was integral to the project. He built 26 cribs over six weeks and painstakingly raised the barn inch by inch, taking a day to make one lift. With the barn suspended high off of the ground, Kuipers Concrete poured footings and the foundation, and the barn was lowered to a stable base for the first time in almost a century and a half. Exterior barnboard was removed and reinstalled in the interior, and another connection to the past was made.

“Lois Badgely would park at the side of the road and take pictures of the progress.

Finally her daughter convinced her to come down and meet us,” said Kemp. “She showed us an aerial photo of the farm she gave her husband as a gift. She worked for an entire year at a cannery to afford it.” The photo hangs proudly in the tasting room, a visual story of the farm’s evolution and a link from a wife’s love to the squadron now entrenched with the winery.

By 2008 the barn was finished and the winery was set to open in April 2009. Kemp and Amber hired staff, launched a marketing campaign, and were anxious to get started, moving forward with a new winery policy unanimously approved by council.

Four days before they were set to open, they received a registered letter with notification of an appeal of the plan. They could not open. Finally, the Ontario Municipal Board adjudicated in December 2009, and once again they planned for a spring launch, a year behind.

Without further delay, Hillier Creek Estates opened to acclaim. With 30 acres under five varieties of grape, it is more than a retirement project, and in 2014 the

Stewarts took the next step of becoming a designated estate winery.

“We have to increase production and sales. It is not just a hobby farm. We are farm winery. We grow grapes, make wine, and sell it, much like a maple syrup operation. We’re in the business of selling wine.”

In 2014, Hillier Creek was approved as an estate winery, meaning once conditions are met, they can host wedding and other events – much like the Grapes of Wrath fundraiser in September. “There is a point where we have to decide to stay a small boutique winery or take the next step and go bigger.”

Kemp is not blind to the challenges inherent with the area, noting Niagara yields three tonnes per acre while Prince Edward County averages about half of that. “All the same expenses, half the crop.”

The Stewarts are committed to continuous improvement and to the Canadian Forces. While Kemp studies viticulture, Amber reads about roses. In addition to beautifying the grounds, her 100 varieties act as indicators for the health of the vines, “They are similar


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in many ways,” explained Kemp. “They are sensitive and are both prone to black spot and mildew.”

With 8 Wing only 20 minutes away, much of Kemp’s focus is in that direction, allowing him to participate in professional development, promotions, changes of command, and personnel support. He does a lot of public speaking about Wounded Warriors, mental and physical health, and the Military Family Resource Centre. “They are our favourite charities on a personal level, so it’s a natural extension of who we are,” he explained.

“Wounded Warriors fills a void for serving and retired members and the companion dog program is very important to us,” he said while scanning the patio for Pinot and Riesling, his two Labradoodles. “Dogs by their nature bring us out of ourselves.”

In another crossover, Kemp is an avid cyclist, usually getting in a 25-kilometre ride each day. Last summer he participated in the Wounded Warrior

Foundation’s Battlefield Bike Ride in France. This winter he is going to take on Mount Lemmon near Tucson, Arizona. At 67, he is not short of goals, whether on his bike or in his business.

To Kemp, life in Prince Edward County, life as a vintner is not just about the wine industry. “It’s the synergy with accommodations, arts, and restaurants.” It is about connecting the wine and tourism industry with another huge economic driver in the area – the Canadian Forces. It’s about promoting everything the region has to offer in a cohesive manner.

“Niagara is Napa. We’re more rustic. We’re the Sonoma of Ontario. Over the next decade we’ll mature as a wine region, we’ll gain more recognition, and we’ll see smaller wineries consolidate. We’ll come into our own and will be as recognized as those other regions.”

Kemp will be there as a driving force.

The kid from nowhere is now a vintner in Hillier with substantial roots.


Stirling's Water Buffalo


For city dwellers winter may appear to be a down time on the farm, but when there are more than 300 water buffalo to care for and 40 to milk twice a day, with one herd manager and a farm hand, there really is no down time. Lori Smith and Martin Littkemann seem to like it, maybe because both of them have farming in their blood.

Although Lori grew up mainly in Belleville, as a child she always felt most at home on her aunt and uncle’s farm. Her first husband was a farmer and they ran a dairy operation not far from the 350-acre

farm she now shares with Martin, just north of Stirling. Martin’s parents migrated from Germany in the early ’60s to settle on a farm near Ivanhoe, where Martin grew up. He has been farming ever since.

It is early fall and Lori doesn’t miss a beat as she unpacks this week’s supply of specialty cheeses made from water buffalo milk supplied by their own milking operation. She tells the story of how their farm, now called the Ontario Water Buffalo Company, became the first water buffalo milking operation in eastern Canada and

the second in the country.While Martin spent his birthday working

hard to get one last cut of hay, Lori chatted in the farm’s most recent addition. It is a modest structure used by the previous owners as a pottery barn. Set back a few metres from the road it is visible to passing traffic, making it ideal for its new use as the farm’s retail outlet. With the help of her son, who works in construction, they renovated the space during the winter months installing flooring and a striking ceiling made with reclaimed tin roofing embossed

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with maple leafs. Aside from a couple of decorative ceramic buffalo, the space is sparse, filled only with refrigerators used to store the cheese and freezers containing the same cuts of buffalo meat a consumer would expect to find on a beef farm, including the jerky. The store opened this past spring.

“We didn’t expect to need a retail outlet,” Lori says.

Before they started milking they had a contract with Quality Cheese, a business run by the Borgo family in Vaughan, north of Toronto. The cheese makers would purchase all of the farm’s buffalo milk to make specialty cheeses such as mozzarella di bufala, ricotta, and Gouda. This business plan won Lori and Martin the 2008 Premier’s Award for Agri-Food Innovation Excellence.

Still, people driving by the farm on the Stirling-Marmora road spotting the water buffalo in the fields would drive up the driveway and knock on their door to see if they had any meat or cheese to sell. The farm now buys back cheese from Quality Cheese, made from their buffalo milk to sell in the store, along with their buffalo meat they have butchered at nearby Hoard’s Station.

“Opening the store was the best thing we ever did because now we have people buying locally and we’ve also had people from Japan, Germany, Norway, and Brazil coming in, signing our guest book and saying how fantastic the farm and store are.”

By their very presence the water buffalo seem to be marketing themselves locally.

For the past six years the town of Stirling has closed off its main street to host the annual Water Buffalo Festival. It is now called Go Buff and features, among other things, food prepared by local chefs with water buffalo meat or cheese. “Sales at the festival and store this year were remarkable. Our volunteers and staff could hardly keep up,” said Lori.

To be a farmer in Canada is to be adaptable, and the story of how the partners came to start milking water buffalo in the first place is a story of adaptation. When Lori and Martin got together they each had experience as Ontario dairy farmers. They missed dairy and really wanted to milk again. Even though Martin still had the equipment, both had sold their quotas, and getting back into dairy would be both difficult and expensive. Martin’s brother suggested they try milking water buffalo. “Martin and I are alike in that we like to go down the path that is least beaten,” says Lori. Being the adventurous types, they did some research, agreed milking water buffalo was worth a try, and off they went to Caserta, Italy for the 2007 World Water Buffalo Congress.

“Fifteen percent of milk consumed world-wide comes from water buffalo and Italy has more water buffalo producing milk than there are Holsteins producing milk in Ontario,” said Lori.

While in Italy they toured farms, sampled different cheeses including mozzarella di bufala, and met a Vermont farmer who would later sell them their first 38 Italian-



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bred water buffalo heifers and one bull, in April 2008. That same year they purchased 10 Bulgarian water buffalo from Fairburn farm on Vancouver Island - the first farm to raise water buffalo in Canada. Two years later they purchased 30 head from a farm in Michigan.

They started milking in September 2008. Lori says because of their experience the

milking part was easy but they both had to work at getting to know the water buffalo.

“The only thing we really had to learn about, and it wasn’t a small thing, was the water buffalo. They have been domesticated for 5000 years, but still have so much of their natural instinct. It’s amazing to watch them give birth, watch them raise their babies, watch them interact with each other.”

A very enthusiastic Australian Shepherd named Molly and several barn cats accompany Lori on farm tours and visitors can easily see the attraction to the water buffalo. Lori calls them all by name - she insists they are all given names when they arrive or are born.

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said. “They’re also more like horses picking people they like. Cow’s don’t give a hoot who is putting the milking machine on but the buffalo do.”

As if it genetics might help to explain some of the difference in their dispositions, Lori noted even though water buffalo are classed as a bovine there is a difference of 14 chromosomes - water buffalo have 48 to 50, depending on the breed, cows have 64. “This means you can’t even breed the two together,” she said.

The water buffalo are organized by age and gender, much like cows would be on a dairy farm. The paddock of some of this year’s heifers all want to be scratched on the head. The milking herd is in the next field. The charismatic Yvette uses her 2,000-plus pounds to push the others out of the way in order to grab all of the attention. Apparently, because of her love of the limelight, Yvette is the one most often taken to public events to serve as a sort of water buffalo ambassador.

Breeding and improving bloodlines is both a science and an art. Last year about 40 calves were born between May and June. Some cows were naturally bred by their own bulls, but most were conceived by artificial insemination. “We meet with Italian breeders when we travel to the World Buffalo Congress. We discuss the options and they supply us with catalogues of the most popular and productive bulls available in the world.” Of course the hope is the bulls will pass on these traits ultimately improving their future herd. They average about 70

calves per year bringing the herd to its current 300 in total.

The tour ends in a state-of-the-art free stall barn under construction. The hope is the barn will be up and running by this winter. Currently Lori and Mike are milking 40 buffalo with each producing about half the milk of a typical Holstein. In the new barn they want to milk 50 to 60 but they could milk as many as 120, and the stall design will be more comfortable for the water buffalo and safer for the person doing the milking.

Lori and Martin, because of their dairy backgrounds, have always voluntarily followed the same regulations governing cow’s milk in Ontario. Martin hopes water buffalo milk production eventually comes under these same regulations, leading to the creation of a whole new industry in the province.

Since the 1940s, the number of family farms has been decreasing in this province and across the country. Increasingly, the smaller farms are surviving by taking control of their own marketing and identifying or developing niche markets.

Lori admitted she and Martin didn’t set out to follow this formula, but so far, it does seem to be working for them. They’re adaptable farmers, after all.



The Drake Devonshire is all that and more. Its hype doesn’t come close to the

reality. It is the Drake by the Lake. It is a nuclear fusion of urban country. It is sensory

overload, a spin class for the eye. It is an eclectic mix of thoroughly random perfectly curated brilliance.

It takes the disconnected oddities of two foreign worlds and smacks them into chaotic harmony. It is a bespoke hotel

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It is a trip inside Jeff Stober’s brain, and it’s a kaleidoscope of a journey.

The yellow lights along the entrance walkway draw clientele like moths to a flame. Before visitors reach for the floating handle on the glass sheet door, it’s difficult to not notice the Barn Light USA fixtures lighting the walkway. They are not the bug light glow of midsummer; they are a quirky comfortable beacon blazing a trail.

If Jeff Stober and his team of creative brains make a sidewalk this enticing, what treasures await within the newly anointed

Drake Devonshire – the Drake on the Lake in Wellington?

Certainly the hosting crew is at the top of the list. Chef Matt DeMille never strays too far from the kitchen and dining areas and general manager Chris Loane is everywhere, maybe directing traffic in the parking lot or keeping a watchful eye over the beachfront – which is a gem all on its own.

The lake is the star of this property, and owner Jeff Stober makes no apologies for his love of the temperamental shoreline. “We architecturally recreated

the Devonshire to frame that ridiculously beautiful view,” he shared hours after returning to Toronto from an early November visit to Wellington. “This time of year, the lake has an attitude. During construction we would stand and watch the mist freeze and form mountains of ice. The colours over the lake are magnificent. Today started out overcast and then the sun broke through. It was a moody magical grey rainbow.”

Jeff’s passion for the Drake Devonshire is not abating with time. His dream of adding


a rural property to the Drake collection is realized, but he is far from finished with it. “We have always played with the ironies and juxtaposition of rural and urban.”

The Drake Hotel - the company’s flagship presence on Queen Street West in Toronto - has a rooftop garden. In the winter, a fireplace warms guests during outdoor events like maple syrup tasting. It’s perfectly orchestrated campy fun.

“We’re bringing rural out of context to an urban setting. We play a lot with rural influences at the Drake.”

Similarly, the Drake Devonshire brings urban touches to rural Prince Edward, capitalizing on the travellers. “I’m fascinated with the idea of people taking road trips,” Jeff admitted. “The Devonshire is the next generation vacation opportunity.”

He compares the Drake Devonshire with those historic vacation outposts of the 1950s and 1960s, reinvented for the next millennium. “We see the Devonshire in a similar light as leaving Los Angeles for Palm Springs, or New York City for the Hamptons. They are modern throwbacks – all of those small hotels and repurposed country inns brought into this age.”

Growing up in Montreal, Jeff spent summers visiting the eastern townships of Quebec. “They were also founded by L oyalists, and it’s the same idea of older hotels from a simpler time updated and given new life.”

The quest for a rural property started about five years ago and Jeff happened upon the Devonshire. “When I first saw Prince Edward County, I got it right away. It’s Palm Springs and the Hamptons and the Laurentians. It’s the same.”

The Devonshire was a natural but challenging addition to the Drake stable. Where others saw obstacles, Jeff and his creative village saw opportunity.

The history of the building was irresistible to his curiosity. The first structure on the property was a plain brick building built in 1860 housing the Wellington Iron Foundry. Sometime around the turn of the century W.P. Niles of the seed company fame added another building

“We have always playedwith the ironies and

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to the foundry and turned it into his residence. When he died, his wife’s nephew assumed ownership and took in tourists during the summer, calling it Clinton Lodge. The tourism operation morphed into a nursing home called Thistle Lodge until 1974 when it was again renovated, repurposed into guest rooms, and renamed the Devonshire Inn and then the Devonshire Inn on the Lake.

Its next incarnation as the Drake Devonshire officially began when Jeff purchased the property in 2012. It has 12 guestrooms and two suites including the famed owner’s suite, a multi-function room appropriately called The Glass Box, a full service restaurant, a bar, large decks, and beachfront, and a tilted piano outdoors whose sole purpose seems to be to listen to itself. That is the magic of the space – the careless happenstance of object placement hides the exceptional intention of every single element.

“There was a painful process of execution to make this look easy,” admitted Jeff, adding he loves hunting for art and treasures. His eclectic style shows at every turn. Beneath a paper and pipe cleaner suspended quilt is a two-foot long fishing lure. A short walk past the front desk is an inviting room filled with art and seating areas, leading to The Glass Box – an architecturally stunning room decorated with vintage furniture, meticulously chosen fabrics, curated art, beautiful flooring, and a ping-pong table.

“The Glass Box tells a beautiful story,” related Jeff. “It is newly architected and open for


interpretation and we wanted to make it welcoming. There’s a lot going on, a lot of modern busyness, and then there’s the ping-pong table. It’s a throwback thing. Who doesn’t want to play ping-pong? We’re living in complex times, in an information revolution. We’re all tied to our gadgets and

we crave simplicity. There is an insatiable appetite for that.”

Those who visit the Drake Devonshire for a single purpose have a battle ahead. The mantra seems to be, “Yes, you can come for coffee,” because there is a perception it is only a hotel, only open to overnight guests,

when in reality it is so open to everyone, always. Chris shared a story of a couple from Quebec who took a detour through Prince Edward on the way home. They stopped in for a coffee in the morning, took a walk through Wellington and came back for charcuterie in the afternoon, decided


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to stay for supper, and booked a room for a few nights.

That in a nutshell is the Drake Devonshire.

The setting is quaint – a lakeside venue in a charming rural Ontario town. The entrance is beguiling, and the interior stunning. Even a quick cup of coffee means experiencing more than one slice of the Devonshire pie. As overnight guests check in, day visitors relax in several dining areas, and others explore the beach. It is impossible not to see more than expected, to not feel part of something wonderful.

To Jeff, it is a canvas created by a village of creative minds.

“It’s a cultural community centre, a living breathing contributing member of the neighbourhood. It’s a role all of the great hotels have always played. We curate our food, our mixology, our art, our rooms, our outdoor spaces. We are hospitality curators and cultural preservationists.”

Acknowledging it would have been much more efficient to build a 200-room cookie cutter hotel, Jeff stressed that simply is not his goal. “We want to embed ourselves deeply into our communities.

The canvas will respond to the conditions it faces. We’re just participants and it’s all about the partnership between us, our customers, municipal officials, suppliers, and neighbours.”

Relying on long-term associates to run the Drake Devonshire solidified an

immediate County connection. Chef Matt DeMille, his wife, and their families are from the area, and Matt worked at the Drake Hotel with Chris, who now lives close to work. A couple of others moved to

the area, but most employees are local and by all accounts loving this new opportunity right in their backyard. Chris estimates 80 per cent of staff are local, and for many, it means changing careers and finding their dream job. “One of our front desk people used to work in factory until she came here. We’re looking for passion; we can train the skills.”

Chris sees the hotel’s role as a County concierge, giving visitors a starting point to explore the area,

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In awe of Matt’s resourcefulness, Chris remembered serving strawberries and tomatoes still warm from picking, going from field to table with the least amount of processing and handling. Autumn brought dishes inspired by squash and cabbage.

“We’re blessed with such great local choices and we let the season and the terroir dictate what we serve. People supplying our beef eat here. We’re inspired by the lake to table opportunity and the availability of beautiful perch and pickerel. We build on that with a lake and sea menu. It’s all connected.”

Matt admits to some crossover items with the Drake Hotel, and then stressed the differences. “Our burgers are better,” he smiled, leading to the next ethos of the Drake mindset. “We’re elegant dining and we’re true inn or tavern style. If we’re open, the kitchen is open. We’ll make a guy a burger when he’s hungry. When the wineries are harvesting late into the evening, their people can stop by for a drink. It was a huge learning curve for us and an adjustment for the community, too. People can stop by for a drink at 9 or 10 in the evening.”

With seating for 85 on the main floor, plus 45 on the patio and 48 in the pavilion, Matt can feed a crowd, but the zones are at once both open and intimate. “We’re giving people options,” he said, with a nod toward

the bar stocked with an array of bourbons, scotches, and wines – with emphasis, of course, on local wineries.

The menu, in Matt’s words is, “Not pretentious. It reads simple but is surprising when it arrives at the table. The dessert menu has a milkshake on it.”

The duo, friends and co-workers for so long, vibrate with excitement and energy in their new project. They miss nothing, focus on the most minute of details, and truly get the big picture.

“Hospitality is a term thrown around a lot,” explained Matt. “This company encompasses it holistically. People come for a coffee and can watch surfers and kayakers; they come for dinner and suddenly they’re treated to live bluegrass music. There is a touch of New York, a touch of Europe, and a lot of Prince Edward in every room, and it all works. It’s a wonderful welcoming experience in a sophisticated setting.”

They also recognize how personal the Drake Devonshire is to its owner. “This is Jeff’s dream project. He spent years on the details and sourcing the décor. It’s homage to his childhood.”

It is all of that, and more. It is more than the hype. It is the Drake Devonshire, and it might just be the start of a new wave of hospitality in Prince Edward County.


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Volcanoes of Ice and Other Wonders The icy brilliance of winter

Article by Sharon HarrisonPhotography by Sharon Harrison and Ramesh Pooran


Incredibly loud and not immediately recognizable, the roaring sound seems out of place on this rural stretch of shoreline sweeping the County’s western fringes. Nearing the headland, the distant growl becomes louder and could easily be mistaken for the rumble of a busy highway. Yet this place is an isolated one, miles distant from traffic. The source of the noise is revealed as the bay comes into view.

Broken ice drifts slowly yet noisily towards the shore as wind and waves give movement to the enormous mass. Encompassing a decent portion of the bay, the thick ice heaves ponderously as the current beneath the semi-frozen concretion struggles to move the overlying mass. The


wind and the lake’s acoustics play tricks, and closer to the rugged limestone shoreline the roar is diminished, changing in rhythm, producing an entirely different note.

Farther along the lakeshore, the small bay is filled with crenulated sheet ice, broken into a thousand fragments, resembling enormous shards of shattered glass. It’s a majestic sight as the sharp trapezoid edges stand vertically, as if reaching for the sky. The din of broken ice,

overlapping and scraping as each piece jostles for space in the crowded arena, combines to create a unique winter symphony. The sound emanating from the setting is not a familiar one, and it momentarily confuses the ear. The bay is covered for several hundred feet out in its ice mosaic. It’s one of those sights that must be seen to be believed, and it takes an adjustment of the senses to absorb every minute detail.

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Looking towards the horizon, beyond the slushy conglomeration of ice blanketing the bay, the lake turns to water of cerulean blue. There seems nothing more pure. On a bitterly cold day in February, the view of the gigantic glittering lake is one of sublime beauty. This is Canada at its winter best. The strong sunlight is blinding as it refracts from the many thousands of glass-like pieces jammed across the expanse. It’s a dazzling visual feast; a vista of raw luminosity. The coruscating mirrors capture one’s gaze, hypnotically transforming the moment into a dream-like state of mind. The optical reflectance appears as nature’s sequins, sprinkled at random. It is just as a sea of jewels could be imagined; a vast collection of druzy quartz gems, where a million tiny crystals sparkle, twinkling far beyond imagination, and expectation.

Heading farther south following the County’s shoreline, the winter season brings with it a unique beach scene, one quite different compared with its summer counterpart. It is not just the golden sands now transformed into a glistening surface of frosty snow. At this point in the calendar, the once flat, narrow, sandy beach is very much changed and now resembles a lunar landscape, complete with craters and mounds appearing as giant molehills. It appears far wider, and the water line has moved a considerable distance out from its usual point. Ruts and crevices criss-cross the area, and hills of snow and ice in all shapes and sizes dominate the landscape.

The hills have distinctive cone-shapes and are scientifically known as cryovolcanoes, although commonly referred to as ice volcanoes. Conditions need to be just so for these unique ice formations to develop, and there have been many a mild County winter where they have failed to materialize. Cones can only start to form once the air temperature


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cools sufficiently, allowing ice to collect and form at the shoreline. As the temperature drops below freezing, wind, waves, and spray build up a shelf of ice along its leading edge. The shelf extends outwards over the lake, and water - driven by wave action - begins to spout through cracks and gaps. The water freezes on the surface, building a cone-shaped mound of ice centred on the gap in the shelf.

This is how the ice volcanoes are born. Without the ice shelf, the volcanoes could not exist. It’s a finely balanced process. Driven by sustained onshore winds, big waves crash against the ice shelf where some of the water is channelled through a network of tunnels below the shelf ’s surface. This water will spout through weak spots in the ice shelf and either create a new cone or use an existing one. The ice volcanoes continue to grow in size with every eruption, as the spouting water freezes when it falls back on the surface of the hollow cavities, building up the cone as it goes.

By midwinter, the starkly beautiful landscape is transformed into a stage of icy hills. Their presence commands attention as the ice volcanoes rise majestically out along the shoreline,

reaching 15 or 20 feet high. At their peak, the volcanoes tower so high that sight lines to the lake disappear, and there’s no clue this is actually a lakeshore. It can be difficult to witness the volcanoes in action: most of the active cones are situated closest to the water’s edge, which can now be 50 to 100 feet beyond the original shoreline. The ice volcanoes work on much the same principle as regular volcanoes. The exploding icy liquid rises up from within the volcano cavity, forced under pressure, spurting high above with great force, fiercely spewing water, chunks of ice, small stones - and sometimes even snow - up to 10 feet in the air. Some eruptions appear violent and chaotic with ice and water spraying in all directions; others are graceful and orchestrated in their performance, having a single plume erupting in time with the waves.

Soon after forming, the ice volcanoes often become dormant, as new ones are created to take their place. The tunnels and channels beneath their surface can change and vents can easily close, usually freezing over if waves decrease or the ice shelf extends farther out, meaning water can no longer reach the volcanoes. If


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wave action is sufficient to reopen a weak spot in the tunnels, it is entirely possible for the volcanoes to come back to life again. Mostly, they remain dormant and hollow and extinct, the assemblage littering the beach as far as the eye can see.

While it may be tempting to explore the ice volcanoes, they bring many elements of danger. The hollow cavities are often thin, and the conditions extremely unpredictable

and constantly changeable. The height of the formations, together with their fragility and unknown instability, make for a precarious adventure. Exposure to the deep, frigid waters beneath the volcanoes can be deadly. Exploration of any kind is never recommended. The ice volcanoes are best viewed and enjoyed from a very safe distance.

Ice rules here for a few short months and yet this Great Lakes phenomenon is by

no means a certainty. Just like so many of Mother Nature’s wonderful creations, their presence cannot be guaranteed from year to year as it depends upon the right set of conditions to work. As with any good recipe, all of the ingredients must be present for the magic to happen. This marvellous spectacle is the County’s very own arctic wonderland, and its icy brilliance is truly impressive.


Adolphustown Redux The United Empire Loyalist Centre and the Daverne FarmArticle by Lindi PiercePhotography by Daniel Vaughan

c

dolphustown. A sleepy little hamlet along Highway 33. A well-kept barn

and a welcoming farmhouse are the first buildings to greet the visitor entering town from the west. A carefully restored board and batten village hall, a fine brick vicarage, and a picturesque Anglican church follow. No businesses but for a family campground down a lane. And trees. Lots of trees. Absorbed into the Town of Greater Napanee, part of the Ontario East Tourist Region, Adolphustown would appear to be losing its identity.

The heritage attraction signs tell a different story. For sleepy Adolphustown is the guardian of the area’s rich United Empire Loyalist (UEL) settlement history - and its future - thanks to the hardworking and visionary people dedicated to telling its story.

The stately Queen Anne style home of David Wright Allison has survived many changes in fortune over its 136 years. The fine brick house was built in 1878 for the wealthy entrepreneur, grandson of Loyalist settlers. Shorn of its tower and verandah, the house maintains its dignity with a magnificent entrance and intricate bargeboard. The house sits on 72 acres of

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treed waterfront property, the actual site of the June 16, 1784 landing of the Loyalists. Here the past is being preserved for the future by the Bay of Quinte Branch of the United Empire Loyalist Association of Canada (UELAC), formed in 1956.

“Adolphustown was the gateway to UEL settlement,” explained Brian Tackaberry, vice-president of the Branch. The first Loyalists settled in the area; succeeding generations ventured farther into newly surveyed townships in today’s Prince Edward and Hastings counties and beyond. Each Loyalist was entitled to a grant depending on his military rank, from 100 up to 1,000 acres. Later, each son and daughter of the Loyalist was also entitled to 200 acres. As a result tiny Adolphustown soon ran out of land, so families spread out.

Historic preservation efforts began early here. The original Loyalist cemetery just west of the Allison house (where a child who died within days of the landing is buried) was restored for the 1884 centenary celebration of the UEL landing, the first such event held in Ontario. Annual June commemorations continued, declining during the First and Second World Wars and the Depression years. By 1956, renewed interest and the financial support of Adelaide McLaughlin (wife of General Motors of Canada founder Colonel Sam McLaughlin) led to the purchase of the property and adjacent Baker farm, and a provincial park was created.

By 1960, the main floor of the Allison house had become a Loyalist museum


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(the former farmer, promoted to park superintendent, lived upstairs). In 1992, when provincial austerity threatened closure of the park, the Bay of Quinte Branch of UELAC took over management of the park in partnership with the St. Lawrence Park Commission, under the name Loyalist Cultural Centre. Finally in 2003 the Bay of Quinte branch assumed ownership of the UEL Heritage Centre and Park - a daunting prospect for a volunteer organization.

That was 11 years ago, and things just keep getting better. The mandate to preserve UEL history is being fulfilled, admirably. In 2014, the aging 1884 monument was restored and stabilized. In the Allison house, original paint has been restored, displays of early settlement and Victorian life, military and UEL history expanded, and the research library developed. In the park, a tiny reproduction bateau lies near the shore, as if beached after unloading an exhausted group of Loyalist arrivals.

All funds are raised privately through the Dominion UE Association. The inviting fully serviced family campground is self-sustaining and popular; some campers have been returning for 50 years. The campground provides some operating funds to the museum, and in return benefits from the heritage connection.

During the summer of 2014, Christine Smith worked her fifth summer as librarian and general-duty historian at the UEL Heritage Centre. History is ‘the family business’ for Christine; she was volunteering


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early as a re-enactor, plays fife in a Loyalist Fife and Drum corps, and sees herself

“going down the history route” after studies at Carleton.

Christine and her colleagues Sarah and Cleo were hired by the UE Association through Young Canada Works grants. “The centre would not be the same without these students,” said Brian. Resourceful, creative, and energetic, the young team works with minimal supervision in the library, cataloguing (they were almost caught up until Peter C. Newman recently donated his research materials for an upcoming book on the UELs) and assisting genealogy researchers. The young women conduct tours, create exhibits, manage the book and gift shop, and do light housekeeping and

maintenance. Returning students pass on the corporate memory; Christine credits long-time student staffer Carson Murphy, who is now pursuing post-graduate studies in Dublin, with much of her expertise.

The young staff seem undaunted by the large groups who descend occasionally, on side trips from large history conferences. They are delighted when they can help a researcher find the missing piece of their puzzle. Sometimes separate groups of researchers are in, and they start talking with each other and realize they are related.

Visitors come from the United Kingdom, Europe, and the USA. Many visitors don’t

know the UEL story - or their connection to it. This past summer a CNN crew came by to shoot footage for a genealogy themed program and the story was aired mid-October on The Lead with Jake Tapper. Indicative of how far the deep Loyalist roots travel, the show’s host is connected to the UEL Huff family. No doubt he was impressed to see the Huff family bible in the museum collection.

One early family story is told eastward along the Adolphus Reach. John and Alice (nee Daverne) Carlson live at the water’s edge along Bayshore Road, a bucolic side trip off Highway 33. The waterfront section follows the route of the original Danforth Road, Upper Canada’s first official highway. Alice’s brother Gerald and wife Jutta live

on the adjacent waterfront property. Their homes occupy the front of the historic family farm; across the quiet road a sign announces ‘Daverne Farm 1815’. Alice grew up on the Daverne farm, attending a one-room school in the village. University, marriage, careers, and travel followed, but Alice and husband John returned to settle in Adolphustown.

The Reverend William Losee (see CQL Summer issue) may have had a hand in the Daverne legacy. The story goes that one Conrad Van Dusen retired from keeping the shoreline tavern he operated on Lot 16, Adolphustown upon his conversion to


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Methodism. The subsequent sale led the Daverne family, who had emigrated from Ireland to Adolphustown by 1803, (later farming in Hallowell near Picton) to stake their future on the fertile farm. Perhaps sons Daniel and Richard, who worked with the British naval forces in Kingston, had spotted the For Sale sign on their way home along the Reach.

Only two or three farms in Lennox and Addington County are this old. Next year, the Daverne Farm will receive official recognition as a 200-year-old family farm. To preserve this rich Irish/UEL history and the rural way of life, the siblings have restored the old farmhouse and adjacent barn, and put them to good use.

Alice and John rent out the family farmhouse; Saturdays are lawn and laundry days, as the farmhouse empties and fills again with another extended family reunion celebration or wedding party, leadership training, retreat group, fishermen, or tourists. “I removed the only


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The square pale yellow two-storey centre hall frame farmhouse stands at the top of a knoll, overlooking a shady lawn of ancient

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barn with its dance floor and displays of farm tools, the mirror ball suspended from a hand-hewn beam, and the magical light slipping between the barn-boards has hosted other celebrations and barn concerts.

It’s a nice story. An old house saved from abandonment, a barn from collapse. New life in a very old community.

So many more places remain to explore in Adolphustown and area. So many more storytellers await the visitor’s attention.

The work of cemetery researchers Ruth and Sarah Wright. The scholarship of Adolphustown-South Fredericksburgh historian Jane Lovell. Hans Ruuth and the story of the Finnish community. Loyalist re-enactors and members of the Loyalist Fife and Drum Corps.

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If you were going to launch a new prohibition, what would you outlaw? Bad wine.

How would you like to rewire your brain?So I could play music and keep a tune.

Why do we sometimes crave chaos?Because it is out of chaos that we discover meaning.

Why should we hang onto our illusions?Man’s reach must exceed his grasp; what else is heaven for?

When do reality and fantasy merge? In the opening scene of a great film.

What is the best way to get licensed as an adult?Have children.

What do you wish you understood about the workings of the universe? Why garlic tastes so sweet when slow roasted.

What takes you down the rabbit hole? Small problems. Remarkable how long we all fuss over the small stuff.

A b o ut M i c h a e l :

Michael MacMillan shares his Gravitas with Alan Gratias

Discover your Gravitas Quotient at www.gravitasthegame.com

Michael MacMillan co-founded Atlantis Films Limited in 1978. In its early years, Atlantis was primarily a film and television production house, winning an Oscar in 1984 for its short film Boys and Girls and an Emmy in 1992 for Lost in the Barrens, amongst other awards. In 1993 Atlantis became a broadcaster with the launch of its first network, Life Network. In 1998 Atlantis acquired Alliance Communications in a reverse takeover and the company became Alliance Atlantis Communications. Under Michael’s continued leadership, as Chairman and CEO, the company operated 13 Canadian television networks including HGTV Canada, Showcase Television, History Television, and Food Network. The company also distributed and produced movies and television programs including the hit series CSI: Crime Scene Investigation. In 2007, Michael retired from Alliance Atlantis after selling the company to Canwest Communications and Goldman Sachs.

In 2007 Michael co-founded Samara which is a charity that works to strengthen and improve the state of Canadian politics. Michael is the Chair of Samara.

Michael is a co-founder and co-owner of Closson Chase Vineyards and Winery in Prince Edward Country, Ontario. It makes Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines.

In 2011, Michael co-founded and is CEO of Blue Ant Media, a new Canadian media company. Blue Ant owns eight Canadian specialty television channels, as well as digital media properties and magazines, including Cottage Life.

Michael has volunteered with numerous community and industry organizations over many years, and is currently involved with Open Roof Films, Human Rights Watch, Civix, and the Community Food Centres Canada, amongst other organizations.

Photo by Daniel Vaughan

Photo by Daniel Vaughan

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