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CragGuide - Täve Supertramp

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Crag Guide Mägdeberg www.thecrag.com
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Page 1: CragGuide - Täve Supertramp

Crag�Guide�Mägdeberg�

�www.thecrag.com

Page 2: CragGuide - Täve Supertramp

www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Mägdeberg

Personalised�for�Jens�S.�Wehofsky�(JENSSWEHOFSKY) 2 Generated�on�2nd�Mar�2021

WarningRock� climbing� is� extremely� dangerous� and� can� result� in� serious� injury� or� death.� Users� acting� on� anyinformation�directly�or�indirectly�available�from�this�site�do�so�at�their�own�risk.This� guide� is� compiled� from� a� community� of� users� and� is� presented� without� verification� that� theinformation�is�accurate�or�complete�and�is�subject�to�system�errors.�By�using�this�guide�you�acknowledgethat� the� material� described� in� this� document� is� extremely� dangerous,� and� that� the� content� may� bemisleading�or�wrong.�In�particular�there�may�be�misdescriptions�of�routes,�incorrectly�drawn�topo�lines,incorrect�difficulty�ratings�or�incorrect�or�missing�protection�ratings.�This�includes�both�errors�from�thecontent�and�system�errors.Nobody�has�checked�this�particlular�guide�so�you�cannot�rely�on�it's�accuracy�like�you�would�a�store�boughtguide.You�should�not�depend�on�any�information�gleaned�from�this�guide�for�your�personal�safety.You�must�keep�this�warning�with�the�guide.�For�more�information�refer�to�our:Usage�policy

About�this�guideThis�guide�is�an�extract�from�the�rock�climbing�community�database�at�www.thecrag.com�for:World�>�Europe�>�Germany�>�Hegau�>�MägdebergIt�was�generated�on�Tue�Mar�2�2021�and�personalised�for�Jens�S.�Wehofsky.The�database�is�constantly�being�updated,�you�should�download�a�recent�version�of�this�guide�periodically�to�stay�up-to-date.�Note�that�this�guideis�one�of�thousands�of�collaoratively-written�guidebooks�you�can�download�for�free�from�www.thecrag.com.This�guide�is�for�personal�use�only�and�should�not�be�used�if�more�than�2�months�old�-�please�get�a�more�up-to-date�version�from�the�website.Note�that�PDF�crag�guides�are�currently�free,�however�we�cannot�guarentee�this�forever.�In�the�future�we�may�have�to�introduce�a�small�fee�for�PDFguides�to�help�make�thecrag.com�sustainable.You�may�not�sell�or�redistribute�this�guide�without�explicit�permission�from�thecrag.�If�you�are�a�publisher�and�would�like�to�use�thecrag�to�helpwith�your�local�areas�then�please�contact�us.ContributorsContent�for�this�guide�has�been�provided�by�the�climbing�community.�Special�thanks�to�the�following�people�who�have�made�the�most�significantcontributions�(according�to�their�Crag�Karma)�to�this�crag�guide:Kai,�GeorgD,�Wile�E�Coyote,�Thomas�Wall,�Seitz�Jürgen,�Marius�Schön,�Michael�Hayes,�Sven,�Bernardo�Mayer�and�Tobias�LangeOther�climbers�may�have�made�significant�contributions�and�chosen�not�to�be�mentioned.You�can�help�contribute�to�your�local�crag�by�adding�descriptions,�photos,�topos�and�more.�If�you�do�find�errors�in�this�guide�you�can�correct�themthrough�www.thecrag.com.CopyrightContent�from�this�document�is�released�under�the�Creative�Commons�-�Attribution�Non-Commercial�Share�Alike�copyright.Using�this�guideDifficulty�ratings:�By�default�Germany�uses�the�UIAA�rating�systems.�This�guide�uses�UIAA�grading�systems.Quality�ratings:�1-3�stars�based�on�thecrag.com�users'�ratings.�No�stars�either�means�that�the�route�was�not�worthy�of�a�star�or�insufficient�userratings.Popularity�ratings:�Charts�based�on�how�often�the�route�is�climbed�relative�to�the�most-climbed�route�at�Mägdeberg,�using�theCrag.com�users'ascent�logs.Tags:�Explicitly�set�area�and�route�attributes�or�frequently�used�keywords�extracted�from�theCrag.com�users'�comments.

Page 3: CragGuide - Täve Supertramp

www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Mägdeberg

Personalised�for�Jens�S.�Wehofsky�(JENSSWEHOFSKY) Generated�on�2nd�Mar�2021

Page 4: CragGuide - Täve Supertramp

www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Mägdeberg

Personalised�for�Jens�S.�Wehofsky�(JENSSWEHOFSKY) 4 Generated�on�2nd�Mar�2021

Table�of�contents1.�Interesting�routes�............................................................................. �42.��Mägdeberg� �55�in�Crag� ......................................................................... 42.1.�A�12�in�Sector� ................................................................................... 62.2.�B�3�in�Sector� .................................................................................... 72.3.�C�8�in�Sector� .................................................................................... 82.4.�D�8�in�Sector� .................................................................................... 92.5.�E�5�in�Sector� ................................................................................... 102.6.�F�8�in�Sector� ................................................................................... 112.7.�G�2�in�Sector� ................................................................................... 122.8.�H�9�in�Sector� ...................................................................................133.�Index�by�grade�................................................................................ 141.�Interesting�routesAn�computer�generated�list�of�interesting�routes�for�the�area�based�on�communityascents.Grade Route Area Page3 Übungsweg� �10m�Trad H 143+ Piazriss� �20m�Sport� 3 B 84 Feigling� �10m�Trad H 144+ Namenlos� �20m�Sport F 115- Wurzelsepp� �5m�Sport� 2 H 145- Riß� �5m�Sport� 3 H 135+ Weg�der�Jugend� �20m�Sport� 4 B 85+ Dachl'� �20m�Sport C 95+ Alte�Verschneidung� �20m�Sport F 116+ Puchtariss� �15m�Sport� 4 B 8Please�note�that�this�list�is�based�on�a�mathematical�algorithm�which�may�result�inroutes�above�your�current�climbing�ability.�(See�Warning�on�page�2)2.�Mägdeberg�55�routes�in�Crag

Page 5: CragGuide - Täve Supertramp

www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Mägdeberg

Personalised�for�Jens�S.�Wehofsky�(JENSSWEHOFSKY) 5 Generated�on�2nd�Mar�2021

Reference:� https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=47.80558,8.79852Summary:�Mostly�Sport�climbingUnique�Features�And�StrengthsFels� von�geneigt�bis� leicht�überhängend.�Gut�abgesichert;� erster�Haken� teilweisehoch�(Clipstick?).�Toprope�möglich.DescriptionThe� Mägdeberg� is� one� of� the� Hegauberge� and� is� located� in� the� district� of� themunicipality�of�Mühlhausen-Ehingen.�On�the�summit�there�is�the�ruin�of�the�castleMägdeberg� offering� wide� panoramic� views.� The� rock� is� volcanic� (Phonolith� andNatrolith)�with�many�cracks�but�solid.Before� 2020,� a� printed� guide�book� cloud�be� ordered�on� klettern-maegdeberg.dewhile�the�digital�version�was�available�at�enziano.com�(claims�to�become�availableagain).Gut�abgesicherti.S.�2-3m�Hakenabstand�und�Umlenker�mit�2�Haken,�die�oft�am�Umlenkernebendran�hintersicherbar�sind.�Teilweise�ist�der�erste�Haken�recht�hoch�-Clipstick�mitnehmen?�Einige�Touren�kann�man�von�oben�als�Toprope�einhängen.Der� Laubwald� ist� im� April� noch� ohne� Blätter,� daher� bis� 19:30� wärmende� Sonne(Sommerzeit).Access�IssuesThe�crag�is�located�in�a�nature�conservation�area.�Please�respect�that�and�follow�therules.

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Personalised�for�Jens�S.�Wehofsky�(JENSSWEHOFSKY) 6 Generated�on�2nd�Mar�2021

ApproachPark� at� the� parking� space� on� the� pass� between� Duchtlingen� and� Mülhausen-Ehingen.� From� there� in� 5� minutes� through� light� forest� to� the� rock.� Follow� thecomfortable�path�on�the�left�around�the�hill�with�the�castle�ruins.EthicRe-bolting� and� addition� of� bolts� to� existing� routes� are� problematic.� The� currentprotection�is�aligned�with�the�placements�the�first�climbers�and�route�setters�usedoriginally.�Therefore�a�lot�of�the�first�bolts�are�very�high�and�a�fall�may�cause�seriousinjuries.It�is�rumoured�that�there�were�attempts�to�improve�protection�but�the�bolts�wereremoved�by�the�old�school�climbers.So�either�be�brave�and�strong�or�use�easier�routes�to�set�up�a�top�rope.Tags5-10�min,�Afternoon�sun,�Phonolite,�Gentle,�W,�NW,�SW,�Allowed,�BBQ�and�Wellestablished2.1.�A�12�routes�in�SectorLat�/�Long:�47.80575,8.79688Summary:�All�Sport�climbingDescriptionSector�with�the�hardest�routes�of�the�crag.�Most�lines�are�overhanging.HistorySince� 2020?� all� overhanging� routes� are� equipped� with� pre-installed� steel� quickdraws.TagsN�and�Always�shady1 Muttertag�15m�Sport 62 Take�it�easy�Sport 7-3 Himmelsleiter�Sport 74 Eisbär�Sport 75 ��Spätzle�Highway�13m�Sport 7-

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www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Mägdeberg

Personalised�for�Jens�S.�Wehofsky�(JENSSWEHOFSKY) 7 Generated�on�2nd�Mar�2021

6 Equinoxe�10m�Sport 87 ��Sklerotisches�Abenteuer�10m�Sport 7+8 ��Powerplay�10m�Sport 7-9 Psychokiller�Sport 7+10 Kleiner�Tiger,�immer�Sieger�Sport 9-11 Namenlos�Sport 7+12 Schneewalzer�Sport 5+2.2.�B�3�routes�in�SectorLat�/�Long:�47.8057,8.79673Summary:�All�Sport�climbingDescriptionRechts� grenzt� direkt� Sektor� 'C'� an� -� der� Übergang� ist� an� der� Kante� bzw.� demVorsprung.�Daher�ist�für�die�Route�'Weg�der�Jugend'�auch�das�Foto-Topo�von�Sektor'C'�von�Interesse.

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www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Mägdeberg

Personalised�for�Jens�S.�Wehofsky�(JENSSWEHOFSKY) 8 Generated�on�2nd�Mar�2021

1 ��Piazriss�20m�Sport� 3 3+Für� eine� Sportkletter-III� recht� fordernd� -� man� sollte� piazzen� können,� derRoutenverlauf�ist�nicht�auf�den�ersten�Blick�klar,�am�2.�Bohrhaken�Grounder-Gefahr�außer�man�legt�selbst�etwas.�Wer�die�3�Bohrhaken�ergänzen�will,�kannzwischen�2.�und�3.�BH�einen�mittleren�Keil� legen,�um�den�Kopf�unter�dem�3.Bohrhaken�eine�Schlinge�legen,�und�ums�Kreuz�zwischen�3.�BH�und�Umlenkereine�Schlinge�legen.2 ��Puchtariss�15m�Sport� 4 6+Fordert�präzises�Stehen�und�etwas�Fingerkraft.3 ��Weg�der�Jugend�20m�Sport� 4 5+Untere�Hälfte�etwas�speckig�und�nicht�simpel�-�dafür�ist�der�1.�Bohrhaken�hoch.Wer�die�Route�noch�nicht�kennt:�Vielleicht�erstmal�per�Clicpstick�entschärfenoder�über�'Piazriss'�einhängen?2.3.�C�8�routes�in�SectorLat�/�Long:�47.80566,8.79668

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www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Mägdeberg

Personalised�for�Jens�S.�Wehofsky�(JENSSWEHOFSKY) 9 Generated�on�2nd�Mar�2021

Summary:�Mostly�Sport�climbingDescriptionLinks�grenzt�direkt�Sektor�'B'�an�-�der�Übergang�ist�an�der�Kante�bzw.�dem�Vorsprung.

1 ��Traumtänzer�20m�Trad� 2 6First�high�bolt�and�no�gear� in�between.�One�or�two�nuts�and�a�sling� improveprotection�between�the�bolts.2 Einsamer�Krieger�20m�Sport 73 ��Halbe�Sechse�20m�Sport 64 ��Dachl'�20m�Sport 5+5 ��Dachlvariante�20m�Sport 6-6 ��Goldene�20m�Sport 6-7 ��König�Dickbauch�20m�Sport 68 ��Schleierkante�20m�Sport 4+2.4.�D�8�routes�in�SectorLat�/�Long:�47.80558,8.79668Summary:�All�Sport�climbing

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www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Mägdeberg

Personalised�for�Jens�S.�Wehofsky�(JENSSWEHOFSKY) 10 Generated�on�2nd�Mar�2021

DescriptionBei� Sektor� D� gibt� es� einen� sehr� großen� Absatz� etwa� auf� halber� Felshöhe.� Dahinführen� vom� Zustiegspfad� 2� gebohrte� Routen,� darauf� gibt� es� Haken,� und� von� dastarten� 7� Hakenreihen.� Man� kann� von� unten� durchsteigen� aber� auch� recht� guteinen�Zwischenstand�machen�und�vom�Absatz�starten,�wenn�man�nicht�mehrfachdenselben�"wiederverwendeten"�unteren�Routenteil�klettern�will.

1 ��Liegender�Riss�25m�Sport 4+2 Engpass�Sport 63 ��Büsslinger�Weg�10m�Sport 5-4 ��Pinochio�20m�Sport 5-5 ��Gelber�Riß�20m�Sport� 3 36 Kante�Sport 7+7 ��Kante�Variante�Sport 6+8 Große�Platte�20m�Sport 3+2.5.�E�5�routes�in�SectorLat�/�Long:�47.80543,8.7966Summary:�Sport�climbing�and�Trad�climbing1 neue�Route�Sport 62 Wellenbrecher�Sport 6+3 Fingertöter�Sport 7+4 Phantasia�Sport 7+5 Rampe�Trad 3+

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www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Mägdeberg

Personalised�for�Jens�S.�Wehofsky�(JENSSWEHOFSKY) 11 Generated�on�2nd�Mar�2021

2.6.�F�8�routes�in�SectorLat�/�Long:�47.80528,8.79657Summary:�All�Sport�climbingApproachDer� Standbereich� von� Sektor� F� liegt� oberhalb� des� Zustiegspfads;� der� Aufstiegvon� rund� 2m� über� Fels� ist� per� Kette� komfortabler� gemacht.� Die� zwei� Teile� desStandbereichs�sind�mit�Brettern�verbunden.1 Chöpli�Sport 32 Chöpli�Variante�Sport 6+3 ��Reibeisen�Sport 6+4 Kurzvariante�Reibeisen�Sport 8+5 Freundschaft�Sport 36 ��Alte�Verschneidung�20m�Sport 5+7 ��Namenlos�20m�Sport 4+8 Namenlos�2�Sport 4

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www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Mägdeberg

Personalised�for�Jens�S.�Wehofsky�(JENSSWEHOFSKY) 12 Generated�on�2nd�Mar�2021

2.7.�G�2�routes�in�SectorLat�/�Long:�47.80517,8.79659

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www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Mägdeberg

Personalised�for�Jens�S.�Wehofsky�(JENSSWEHOFSKY) 13 Generated�on�2nd�Mar�2021

Summary:�All�Sport�climbing

1 ��Zum�Anfangen�20m�Sport� 3 3Warning�-�Fixed�Gear:�HakenDie� Haken� sind� Marke� Eigenbau� und� neigen� auf� Grund� der� Größe� zumSelbstaushängen�der�Exe

2 ��Zum�Üben�20m�Sport� 4 4-2.8.�H�9�routes�in�SectorLat�/�Long:�47.80495,8.79696Summary:�Sport�climbing�and�Trad�climbingDescriptionWalking�along�from�the�car�park�this�is�the�first�cliff�you�may�reach.�Very�short�singlepitch�routes�with�very�good�rock.1 Alte�Unlohnende�5m�Sport 22 ��Riß�5m�Sport� 3 5-

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www.thecrag.com Crag�Guide�for�Mägdeberg

Personalised�for�Jens�S.�Wehofsky�(JENSSWEHOFSKY) 14 Generated�on�2nd�Mar�2021

Short�but�great.�Use�the�crack3 ��Wurzelsepp�5m�Sport� 2 5-Short�dihedral�with�a�crack�that�is�too�narrow�for�your�fingers.�You�have�to�stemto�reach�the�essential�hold�at�the�edge.4 Freizeitweg�5m�Sport 35 Namenlos�10m�Sport 16 Rielasinger�Weg�10m�Sport 4

7 ��Namenlos�2�10m�Sport� 2 4+8 ��Feigling�10m�Trad 49 ��Übungsweg�10m�Trad 33.�Index�by�gradeGrade Route Area Page1 Namenlos�10m�Sport H 142 Alte�Unlohnende�5m�Sport H 13

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Personalised�for�Jens�S.�Wehofsky�(JENSSWEHOFSKY) 15 Generated�on�2nd�Mar�2021

3 ��Gelber�Riß�20m�Sport� 3 D 10Chöpli�Sport F 11Freundschaft�Sport F 11��Zum�Anfangen�20m�Sport� 3 G 13Freizeitweg�5m�Sport H 14��Übungsweg�10m�Trad H 143+ ��Piazriss�20m�Sport� 3 B 8Große�Platte�20m�Sport D 10Rampe�Trad E 104- ��Zum�Üben�20m�Sport� 4 G 134 Namenlos�2�Sport F 11��Feigling�10m�Trad H 14Rielasinger�Weg�10m�Sport H 144+ ��Schleierkante�20m�Sport C 9��Liegender�Riss�25m�Sport D 10��Namenlos�20m�Sport F 11��Namenlos�2�10m�Sport� 2 H 145- ��Büsslinger�Weg�10m�Sport D 10��Pinochio�20m�Sport D 10��Riß�5m�Sport� 3 H 13��Wurzelsepp�5m�Sport� 2 H 145+ Schneewalzer�Sport A 7��Weg�der�Jugend�20m�Sport� 4 B 8��Dachl'�20m�Sport C 9��Alte�Verschneidung�20m�SportF 116- ��Dachlvariante�20m�Sport C 9��Goldene�20m�Sport C 96 Muttertag�15m�Sport A 6��Halbe�Sechse�20m�Sport C 9��König�Dickbauch�20m�Sport C 9��Traumtänzer�20m�Trad� 2 C 9Engpass�Sport D 10neue�Route�Sport E 106+ ��Puchtariss�15m�Sport� 4 B 8��Kante�Variante�Sport D 10Wellenbrecher�Sport E 10Chöpli�Variante�Sport F 11��Reibeisen�Sport F 117- ��Powerplay�10m�Sport A 7��Spätzle�Highway�13m�Sport A 6

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Personalised�for�Jens�S.�Wehofsky�(JENSSWEHOFSKY) 16 Generated�on�2nd�Mar�2021

Take�it�easy�Sport A 67 Eisbär�Sport A 6Himmelsleiter�Sport A 6Einsamer�Krieger�20m�Sport C 97+ Namenlos�Sport A 7Psychokiller�Sport A 7��Sklerotisches�Abenteuer�10mSport A 7Kante�Sport D 10Fingertöter�Sport E 10Phantasia�Sport E 108 Equinoxe�10m�Sport A 78+ Kurzvariante�Reibeisen�Sport F 119- Kleiner�Tiger,�immer�SiegerSport A 7


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