A l e x a n d r a M o r ’ s

ALEXANDRA MOR of New York is a force to reckon with, and her secret lies in simplifying and

deconstructing complex ideas, to translate them into avant-garde classics. She dips into an

arsenal of emotions and experiences to create one-off omnipotent pieces where gems take a

central seat and the cursive metal, be it platinum or gold, gently works its way into the design

to hold the gleaming beauties. This savoir-faire underscores Alexandra’s supremacy in unifying

geometry, femininity and art, where gems, fancy cuts, colour and form integrate in a picture-

perfect assemblage of mystifying beauty.

Each of her pieces includes the knife-edged wire, double-claw prongs, and yellow gold

interior lining, a feature dating back to times of yore, when gold was used to line silver pieces

for royals, to prevent oxidation. Alexandra’s High Jewelry collection is curvaceous and poetic

with soft, organic silhouettes. Elegance and femininity are the hallmarks of this line. Her Vows

line is about storytelling, and the love and commitment involved in crafting each piece.

Alexandra, in an exclusive interview with SHANOO BIJLANI, speaks about her journey from

being a film-maker to a jewellery designer, and the art of bringing an idea to life!

C R E A T I V E C H A R I S M A

INDIA’S FIRST LUXURY JEWELLERY MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 201536

india’s first Luxury jeweLLery magazine september-october 2015 37

“The smell of burning yellow ochre drifts into my studio and complements the aroma of my morning coffee. I pause to take it in, surrounded by my pencils, photos, my sketchbook and... some loose diamonds. Shapes, lines and colours run through my head. I lean into my drafting table, and let my mind loose. A jewel is about to come to life.”

C R E A T I V E C H A R I S M A

INDIA’S FIRST LUXURY JEWELLERY MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 201538

You were born in the cradle of creativity – your mother was

a seamstress, who made clothes for you until adulthood. Tell

us more about that atmosphere and what triggered in you to

regard bespoke pieces as symbols of power. You’ve also done

a short stint as a production assistant in films. Did you also

make films?

My journey into films started when I served as an assistant

director. Later, I moved up through the ranks, from second

assistant director, location manager to production manager

and ended up as a line producer in films, commercials,

TV series and documentaries, both locally in Israel and

internationally. Throughout my journey as a film-maker, I

felt I was missing the knowledge and history of the art and

decided to take a break; I moved to New York and enrolled

in the New School where I learned about film-making and its

history from the best teachers and practices. What attracted

me most in the beginning were mostly the people and talents

I was working with and the exposure to create something that

comes out of an idea: a story, a script, into something bigger

than life. Film is an amazing medium of expression and the

industry itself became one big family to me.

How different is film-making from jewellery making? Are

there any aspects that even today spill over into your present

profession as a designer?

Both jewellery design and film-making are arts of human

expression. They both rely on the small details that play

a major part in the essence that they encapsulate. My

film-making experience helps me daily, as I have a better

understanding of the bigger ‘picture’, working independently

with people, budget, production, timeline and bringing it

all to life … making the idea a reality. I have learned that

everything is possible, and when there is an obstacle, it

doesn’t mean it’s over, it just means we need to find a new

way to look at it and a new way to solve it. When I started

C R E A T I V E C H A R I S M A

“I found myself on a jewellery bench in 2004. The first moment I sat on the bench, cutting, sawing, measuring, filing, burning, designing – I knew I (had) found my place.It felt like home.”

india’s first Luxury jeweLLery magazine september-october 2015 39

Detachable DiamonD bow & Ruby eaRRings

A one-of-a-kind pair of detachable contemporary bow earrings made with details of knife-edged wire and 1mm diamond melee wire. The centre of the bow is set with emerald-cut diamonds weighing 0.84 carat. The earrings feature rose-cut rubies weighing 106.94 carats, pear-shaped rubellites weighing 6.88 carats, tear-drop rubellites weighing 14.80 carats, and pearls. Drop gems are accented with fancy-cut diamonds with a total weight of 0.35 carat. The detachable components create six distinct pairs of earrings that are set in platinum on 18-karat yellow gold with the Alexandra Mor logo.

INDIA’S FIRST LUXURY JEWELLERY MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 201540

C R E A T I V E C H A R I S M A

designing, the skills I gained in my film-making years helped

guide me in creating a business.

What made you learn jewellery making?

Love for design and craftsmanship. Jewellery has it all, as

well as history and connection with people.

When did you start your own brand?

I took my time to develop my brand voice and design DNA

and launched my brand to the public on December 2010

at Phillips de Pury. I am forever grateful for the opportunity I

have had with Phillips, this is where it all began.

Your creations are very typical – bold gems held aloft by

double claws, curvaceous ring shanks ... The structures are

Art Nouveau married with contemporary silhouettes. How

did you arrive at these unique assemblages? Tell us about

your inspirations. What leads you to doing such architectural

pieces?

My inspiration comes from my own personal journey as

a woman and the need to preserve what was given to

us, in a holistic and relevant fashion. My work is a true

juxtaposition of my love for history, the significance of old-

world craftsmanship, merged with contemporary aesthetics

and technology. I have always held a great respect for the

past, and vintage jewellery continues to serve as a source

of inspiration, but I try to translate this into a neo-futuristic

context, in overall design and composition. My collection

A 29-carat Asscher-cut intense honey citrine ring detailed with double bands of 1mm knife-edged wire and 1.09 carats of 1mm floating diamond melee.

The ring is set in platinum set on a

ASSCHER-CUT HONEY CITRINE & DIAMOND CURVED RING

1mm 18-karat yellow gold band with the Alexandra Mor logo gallery.

This ring features a 20.37-carat cushion-cut deep-yellow citrine flanked by a pair of trapezoid-shaped and baguette citrine and 54 1mm round diamonds weighing a total of 1.95 carats. The ring is set in platinum around an 18-karat yellow gold

CUSHION-CUT DEEP-YELLOW CITRINE & DIAMOND RING

Alexandra Mor gallery. (Limited edition of five from the Signature collection.)

“As a child I expressed myself creatively through writing and drawing. Today, my creative outlet is designing couture jewellery, creating heirlooms to be worn and loved forever.”

celebrates the person as a whole, and the exploration of

one’s juxtapositions – a client’s softness versus boldness;

their femininity with an inner edge. Fashion, film noir and the

striking lines of architecture all inspire this.

You create bespoke jewellery for brides-to-be and are happy to

be part of their journey. How do you bring about your aesthetic

strengths as a designer to understand what a customer

requires and make something that has your stamp on it?

I offer clients an opportunity to work along with me and

see how I design pieces from sketching and gem selection

to the final product that evokes a unique reflection of their

individuality.

I was born into a family of French couturiers, and was

exposed early on to the power of bespoke creations, while

watching my seamstress mother and aunt at work. A client

could chose from my ‘Signature collection’ of limited edition

pieces, or a ‘Made-to-Order’ piece, but I intend to create an

heirloom for the future.

You must be a good listener, observer and an empathiser, or

else you would not understand what your customers want.

Does it feel nice to be part of a couple’s first steps towards the

journey of togetherness?

It is important that I first find the stone that speaks to my

heart and next, my clients should find the right design that

suits their persona – these are the key factors. I gather as

much information as I can by meeting my client – who they

DiamonD arch Earrings

Set in platinum and 18-karat yellow gold, the diamond arch earrings are set with 15.58 carats of green opal cabochon, 30.02 carats of moonstone drops, and 4.60 carats of black rutilated quartz. The total diamond weight of the diamond arches and four emerald-cut diamonds is 1.07 carats.

oval-cabochon anDEan opal & DiamonD ring

The one-of-a-kind 41.62-carat oval-cabochon Andean blue opal, set on a double-finger ring, is detailed with Alexandra Mor’s signature design elements of curved 1mm floating diamond melee and knife-edged wire. The ring is set in platinum on 18-karat yellow gold with the Alexandra Mor logo gallery. The total diamond weight is 5.43 carats.

continued on page 44

india’s first Luxury jeweLLery magazine september-october 201542

Brilliant-Cut DiamonD & Sapphire ring

A one-off diamond ring patterned with 22 blue sapphire trapezoids totalling 2.80 carats and a 4.02-carat brilliant-cut diamond floating in the centre, surrounded by six 4mm round diamonds, enhanced by Alexandra Mor signature details of 1mm knife-edged wire and 1mm

‘floating’ diamond melee. The platinum ring is set on an 18-karat yellow gold Alexandra Mor logo gallery.

three-Stone Kunzite & DiamonD ring

A three-stone ring with platinum on a 1mm 18-karat yellow gold band with the Alexandra Mor logo gallery, featuring a 26.25-carat centre Asscher-cut kunzite stone, with two side Asscher-cut kunzites of 15.96 carats. The three kunzite stones are set with intricate, intertwined bands, adorned with Alexandra Mor’s signature details of 298 floating diamond melee and knife-edged double-split prongs.

emeralD-Cut platform DiamonD BraCelet

The emerald-cut diamond platform bracelet in platinum on an 18-karat yellow gold Alexandra Mor logo gallery, has Alexandra’s signature details of 1mm diamond melee and knife-edged wires. (Limited edition of 15.)

india’s first Luxury jeweLLery magazine september-october 2015

c r e a t i v e c h a r i s m a

Belt Buckle with Antique JAde, diAmonds & BAroque PeArls

A unique belt buckle in 18-karat white and yellow gold set with Alexandra Mor’s signature details of 1mm melee bands and knife-edged wire. Carved antique green jades set around baroque grey pearls on a hand-made textured surface, set with a mix of 1.1m-1.3mm brilliant-cut diamond melee. The buckle accompanies a specially tailored wide cognac crocodile belt.

emerAld & diAmond Flower eArrings

The one-of-a-kind dramatic shoulder-length pair of diamond earrings with fancy-colour diamond flowers and a matching pair of drop-shaped vivid green emeralds weighing 52.58 carats, each asymmetrically encircled by Alexandra Mor signature details of 1mm knife-edged wire on a leaf of 1mm floating diamond melee. The platinum leaves transition into 18-karat yellow gold and are connected with 175 graduating natural fancy-colour matched flower-set diamonds transitioning from white to greyish-blue, to green, to peach, to pink and yellow colours.

A sugArloAF-cABochon emerAld & diAmond ring

A 26.16-carat sugarloaf-cabochon emerald ring is set with Alexandra Mor’s signature details of double bands of 1mm knife-edged wire and 0.84 carat of 1mm floating diamond melee. Created with a stone from Gemfields, where all emeralds are ethically sourced from mine to market.

are and what are their design aesthetics and their lifestyle –

before I sit down to work. However, my signature details form

the core of every piece as they serve as my anchor. They’re

crucial as they are the building blocks of my creative DNA.

Sometimes I use my signature details to bring out the beauty

of the stone, and at other times, the essence comes about as

an accent or makes a bold statement.

For a customer, I normally share three top-view pencil

drawing design options. After the client picks out a favourite, I

refine it together with him/her until we arrive at a final design.

I love to take the collaborative approach and I consider it

crucial to the success of the end-designed piece.

This last stage is to transform the sketch into a one-

of-a-kind jewel. Once the sketch is approved, I scrutinise

every millimetre of the design and all intricate details. Once I

perfect the design, actual production begins.

All my pieces are handcrafted and made in the USA and

Italy, usually taking me about five weeks to four months to

complete a piece depending on how simple or complicated

the design is.

What is your design philosophy?

My collection is a tangible reflection of my own journey as a

woman to this day. It is through the dialogue and interplay

of hard and soft; oversized elements and the delicate;

symmetrical and curved; feminine touches and edgy nature

with retrospect to the past, present and future.

Pear-ShaPe OPal and diamOnd earringS

A pair of pear-shape opal earrings suspended from a brilliant-cut diamond detailed with Alexandra Mor’s signature floating diamond melee and knife-edged wire. The earrings are set in 18-karat white gold on an 18-karat yellow gold Alexandra Mor logo gallery accented with diamond melee. (Limited edition of five.)

SnOwflake and BarOque Pearl CluSter earringS

A pair of diamond earrings composed of a cluster of petit snowflakes with six baroque pearls detailed with Alexandra Mor’s signature floating diamond melee and knife-edged wire. The earrings are set in platinum on an 18-karat yellow gold Alexandra Mor logo gallery. (Limited edition of 15.)

c r e a t i v e c h a r i s m a

“i love to combine old-world craftsmanship with contemporary styles and techniques. By and large, it came from my background at home, along with a strong love for design, fashion, proportion, art and aesthetics.”

india’s first Luxury jeweLLery magazine september-october 2015 45

Which are your favourite gemstones and which is your

preferred metal?

Like people, each gem has a story and a character that is

uniquely theirs. i work with all kinds of gemstones. the most

important aspect of choosing a stone is the character, rather

than its kind.

How long does it take you to produce a collection? Tell

us something about your various collections and their

inspirations.

this is a profound question, as the way i see my work is more

through inspiration, rather than a timeline. i feel sad for the

way designers today have to abide by the fashion calendar

and create collections based on timeline rather than on their

inner voice and inspiration. this is the difference between

art and mass production. i try as much as i can to stay true

to my creative journey and keep any distraction out of the

process.

What are your bestselling jewellery pieces?

Snowflake stud earrings and the wide diamond eternity band.

Tell us about your other hobbies.

i love reading and writing poetry, art, horseback riding,

film noir, spending time with my family, hiking, meditation,

cooking (but only when i have time) and swimming. all these

elements are an integral part of who i am as a woman. n

Black DiamonD StuDS with DiamonD Earring JackEtS

A pair of round black diamond studs accompanied by diamond earring jackets, detailed with Alexandra Mor’s signature 1mm floating diamond melee and knife-edged wire. Earrings measure half an inch in diameter and are set in platinum over the 18-karat yellow gold Alexandra Mor logo gallery. (Limited edition 3/50.)

Fancy-ShapED DiamonD Sautoir archED EarringS

The 18-karat white gold sautoir earrings feature a collection of 22 fancy-shaped diamonds comprising brilliant, radiant, oval, marquise, trillion-cut and baguettes complemented by four yellow princess-cut diamonds. Each earring is bezel-set and suspended by Alexandra Mor signature details of knife-edged wire and floating diamond melee arches. The total diamond weight is 6.78 carats. (Limited edition 1/25, available in 18-karat yellow gold, white gold and platinum.)

C R E A T I V E C H A R I S M A

THREE-STONE PERIDOT & DIAMOND RING

The one-of-a-kind three-stone emerald-cut peridot ring totalling 21.04 carats, set with intricate, intertwined bands adorned with Alexandra Mor’s signature showcases details of 262 ‘floating’ diamond melee and knife-edged double-split prongs. Platinum set on a 1mm 18-karat yellow gold band with the Alexandra Mor logo gallery.

GREEN-BLUE TOURMALINE & DIAMOND RING

The unique 14.82-carat cushion-cut vivid green-blue tourmaline ring, set with Alexandra Mor’s signature details of floating diamond melee and knife-edged wire, surrounded by 12 step-cut baguette diamonds. Platinum set on a 1mm 18-karat yellow gold band with the Alexandra Mor logo gallery.

Susan B. Kaplan was one of Alexandra Mor’s first collectors and her extensive knowledge and passion for jewellery is evidenced in the philanthropy of her family foundation—The Rita J. and Stanley H. Kaplan Family Foundation.

Kaplan’s interest in jewellery flourished when, as a young girl, she would go shopping with her mother, Rita. She is now a trustee at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, where she made it her mission to elevate jewellery within the museum setting.

Kaplan made jewellery history in 2006, when her family foundation endowed a ‘curator of jewellery’ position—the first of its kind in an

American museum. Four years later, the Rita J. and Stanley

H. Kaplan Gallery for jewellery opened with its inaugural exhibition, ‘Gems, Jewels, and Treasures: Ancient to Modern’, which highlighted 6,000 years of jewellery history, and today visitors will find an exquisite exhibition titled ‘Gold and the Gods: Jewels of Ancient Nubia’.

Kaplan sought out Alexandra Mor when she wanted to design a very special new jewel. Susan Kaplan and Alexandra Mor met in the winter of 2013, and decided to work together to re-imagine two heirloom rings from Susan’s collection. The results were stunning.

india’s first Luxury jeweLLery magazine september-october 2015 47

Platinum DiamonD Snowflake three-ring Set, with rounD centre DiamonD

This three-ring set features a 13mm Alexandra Mor signature diamond snowflake design set on a knife-edged band complemented by two adjacent bands set with Alexandra’s signature 1mm floating diamond melee. The rings from the Signature/Vows collection are set in

platinum and 18-karat yellow gold, and the total diamond weight is 1.43 carats. (Limited edition of 50)

meDi coral & DiamonD chanDelier earringS

A pair of 18-karat white gold chandelier earrings features eight pear-shaped corals and eight fancy-shaped ideal-cut diamonds. The corals vary in colour from deep red to pale pink, and are surrounded by Alexandra Mor’s signature 1 mm knife-edged wire and 4.55 carats of floating diamond melee.