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Edited independently in our three areas and published quarterly.Please contact your section or the access the club website for information on any events

DA SECRETARYPeter Loakes, Church Cottage, West Stafford, DT2 8AB (01305) 263272BOURNEMOUTH & DISTRICT SECTIONJean Trill, 2 Parham Road, Bournemouth, BH10 4BB (01202) 513039SALISBURY SECTIONAlan Clarke, “Hill House”, Kelsey Road, Salisbury SP1 1JR (01722) 322188WEST DORSET SECTIONMike Durham, 74 Westhill, Wyke Regis, Weymouth DT4 9NE (01305) 770140

Main Calendar Dates For 2006Sunday 12th Mar 50 in 4 Shawn Shaw 01202 685014Sunday 26th Mar 100 in 8 Shawn Shaw 01202 685014Sunday 9th Apr Dorset Coastlet 100km Annemarie Manley 01202 294835Sunday 9th Apr Dorset Coast 200km Annemarie Manley 01202 294835Saturday 29th Apr Cycle Jumble Sale Ken Reed 01305 772654W/E 5th -8th May St Lo Twinning in Wessex Norman Payne 01202 695179Sunday 7th May New Forest 50/Day Out 100km John Ward 01590 671855Sunday 7th May New Forest Excursion 200km John Ward 01590 671855Sunday 21st May Dorset Downs 100km Peter Loakes 01305 263272Sunday 25th Jun Devon and Dorset Downs 300km Peter Loakes 01305 263272Sunday 27th July New Forest 1000km John Ward 01590 671855Sunday 10th Sep New Forest 50 and Coast 100km John Ward 01590 671855Sunday 10th Sep New Forest On & Off Shore 200km John Ward 01590 671855Sunday 17th Sep Dorset Dirt 50km offroad Ken Reed 01305 772654Sunday 24th Sep Dorset Delight 200km Peter Loakes 01305 263272Sunday 8th Oct Gridiron 100km Terry Walsh 01202 247888

ALL WESSEX ACTIVITIES CAN BE FOUND ON: www.wessexctc.org

THE WESSEX NEWSLETTER

1 Cycle Ink #141

Summer 2006

The Potterers have decided that the group size is getting too big and have decided tosplit into two, so you’ll see a new group on the runs list, the “Alternative Potterers”.As we already have some “Inters”, I’m waiting to see how long it is before the newgroup gets called the “Alters”. Only joking guys! Good luck to the group.

The Dawdlers Club-nights which were heldat Ruth Merchant’shouse, continue to beheld now at PelhamsCommunity Centreon the same regulardate, first Tuesday ofeach month, as before.

The “regular” club-nights will recom-mence at Pelhams onWednesday 27th Sep-tember after thesummer break and are

booked through until the end of this year but will not be continued after thatbecause of lack of support.

I’m hoping that in 2007 the Dawdlers Clubnight can become the “regular” one andwe are talking about this.

Kingston Maurward

2 Cycle Ink #141

DUDLEY JOHN HAMILTON PALMER

Dudley passed away peacefully at home on the 14th April 2006 aged 92 yearsafter a full life.

A Chemist on Abbotsbury Road Westham for 35 years, Dudley was a memberof the Lagonda Owners Club and owner of a 1931 Lagonda.

He was a life member of the Wessex Road Club and of the CTC. With his wifeDorothy, he participated actively in many club events. I remember withgratitude that we were invited to use Dudley’s back garden as the Weymouthcontrol point on the “Dorset Coast 200km” for a number of years in the early1980’s when Dudley, Dorothy, Ruth & Jack Merchant and the team would beserving up refreshments.

He showed me his Lagonda during one of those events, explaining that itwasn’t “motoring”, driving a Lagonda was just petrol assisted cycling!

OBITUARY

Portland Bill Lighthouse

3 Cycle Ink #141

What’s On ?

Informal Wayfarers Rides to BurleyThis ride happens every Saturday and is completely informal. There is no

leader and no back up, but generally an experienced cyclist somewherearound. The route is designed for beginners but joined in by all abilities.

Start 08:45 at Pioneer Supermarket, Christchurch every Saturday

Or just make your own way to the NewForest Tea Rooms, Burley for 10:00

Blackmore Vale Section RidesCycle Rides arranged by Richard & Margaret Nicholl. All rides meet at the Cafeat 10:00am for coffee and cake, departing at 10:30am. Please note that somerides are on a Saturday and some on a Sunday. Details (01963) 32840

Sat 3rd JUN MEET: CASTLE CARY, Old Bakehouse, High Street LUNCH: Westhay. TEA: Yeovilton, RNAS Museum CafeSun 18th JUN MEET: SALISBURY, Waitrose Supermarket, With Salis. Section. LUNCH: Salisbury Plain, Bustard Inn. TEA: Salisbury or Crockerton Furniture StoreSat 1st JUL MEET: BRADFORD-ON-AVON, Lock Inn Cottage. LUNCH: Bath, on the Kennet & Avon. TEA: Avoncliff or FromeSun 16th JUL MEET: EAST STOUR, The Udder Farm Shop. LUNCH: Tolpuddle. TEA: Milton AbbasSat 29th JUL MEET: MERE, Angel Corner Tea Room LUNCH: Dinton. TEA: ShaftesburySun 13th AUG MEET: East Lambrook, Manor Gardens LUNCH: Chard. TEA: East LambrookSat 26th AUG MEET: WOOKEY HOLE LUNCH: Brean Down. TEA: Wookey HoleSun 10th SEP MEET: STOURHEAD, National Trust Cafe LUNCH: Norton St Philip. TEA: RadstockSat 23rd SEP MEET: CASTLE CARY, The Old Bakehouse, High Street LUNCH: Muchelney. TEA: Yeovilton, RNAS, Museum CaféSun 8th OCT The Alternative MEET: GILLINGHAM, Waitrose Supermarket. LUNCH: Wardour CastleSat 21st OCT MEET: MILBORNE PORT, Wheathill Garden Centre

4 Cycle Ink #141

Not the best forecast, so out of 64 entrants only 36 turned up at Top O Town Café for thestart. For those 36 the pretence of staying dry was shattered by foot drenching floodsbefore even reaching Bradford Peverell. Up on the Roman Road, the riders were up inthe clouds, and the wet descent down Spyway Hill was spiced up by that infamous crosswind by the gateway (know the one?) The lack of starters meant that there were plenty ofrefreshments, which went down so well that here is the recipe!

Millionaires ShortbreadBase: 4oz unsalted butter, 2oz caster sugar, 6oz sifted plain flourTopping: 4oz caster sugar, 4oz unsalted butter, 2tbsp golden syrup, 1 small (or ½ big) tincondensed milkCream butter & sugar together until fluffy. Add flour & mix & knead until smooth. Pressinto base of greased shallow 8” square tin. Prick with fork & bake 20 mins until goldenbrown (180/Gas mk4). Leave to cool.Topping: put all ingredients in pan & heat gently until sugar dissolves. Boil for 6-8 mins,stirring constantly, until it begins to set. Pour over base & allow to cool. Melt 6ozchocolate in a bowl over hot water & spread over caramelMark into portions and leave to set.Give all utensils to daughter to lick if you have one!

The short cut back from the Wardon Hill Café was tempting for some riders, but 24carried on to the Green Man Inn, which was heaving with customers, much to the disgustof Clive the marshal who was forced to sit in the corridor by the toilets. On the next legvarious farms were noted down for the Info control (Gorse Farm was my intended one),but the question should have been “make of car in the ford?” – Mercedes. The last tworiders back were delayed there for 20 minutes while a tractor towed it away. The twousually dry fords beyond Fifehead St Quentin caused some problems with cross currents.My father’s opinion of the riders who reached the Ansty control: “Salt of the Earth!”The later riders enjoyed a sunny ride into the headwind back to Dorchester, socongratulations to the 24 hardy cyclists who finished this tough ride! Thanks again to themarshals who gave up their time:Brian Archer, Clive Gerrard, Liam Jamieson, Imelda, Janet, John and Tamara Loakes

Don’t forget the 3D300 on June 25th and the Dorset Delight 200km on September 24thDetails from: pete_loakes@yahoo.com

THE 19th DORSET DOWNS 100km

5 Cycle Ink #141

2007 will see the 30th Dorset Coast 200km and 20th Dorset Downs 100km. Havingreached these milestones, the organisers would like to stand down after next year.Both are classic events, over the years attracting thousands of cyclists from all over thecountry.

So, are there any organisers out there who would like to take on either event? Theycan be kept the same, or new routes and controls can be created, as long as the eventsremain true to spirit. What is needed is an individual to take on overall responsibilityfor an event; both of us would offer support and advice, and there are plenty of clubmembers who would be willing to help out on the day. We’re giving plenty ofadvanced warning, because neither of us want to see the demise of these events.

I’d like to add to this sentiments. The Wessex CTC is rightly renowned for its “open”randonnees. With countryside like ours of course, we can hardly go wrong! The factthat Pete Loakes has organised all 20 of the “Downs” and that Annemarie and I haveorganised all of the “Coasts” speaks volumes though. On the one side it shows that wehave a real continuity, on the other side that the work just comes down to the “sameold people”. Perhaps Annemarie and Pete will excuse the use of the word “old”, it’sjust a relative term!

We need some new blood in these events and I cannot believe that therearen’t people in our club willing to take over. Come on then, prove tome that there are.

DORSET COAST & DORSET DOWNS. . . their future is in your hands!

6 Cycle Ink #141

The committee voted recently to make adonation of £500 towards the DorsetAmbulance “Lucas” Appeal. The originalsuggestion came from Margaret, and Idon’t know if it was inspired by myrecent adventure, but it certainly madesome people start thinking about whathelp we might need whenout cycling.

The questions wereinevitable. What is theequipment? What does itdo? If this equipment is soimportant why don’tDorset Ambulances buy itfrom their budget?

Margaret, Bob & JoanCourtney, Janet and Iarrived at the PooleAmbulance station on theafternoon of Friday 31stMarch to meet PeterWray-Cook and veryquickly he had theequipment out for us tosee. Poor Mr Dummy(he’s really known as aCPR Mannikin) wassubjected, yet again I feel,to a rhythmic pounding onhis chest as the Lucasequipment, powered bycompressed oxygen, beganslamming into his chest in regularpowerful beats. It looked dramatic, itlooked painful, but I can assure you frompersonal experience that in his state, MrDummy wouldn’t know a thing. So, thereyou go. The Lucas equipment is a

seemingly simple device to replace theparamedic thumping on the chest of apatient in cardiac arrest. Peter quicklytold us that there’s more to it than that.The equipment is the end result of a lot ofmedical research on the most effectiveresuscitation strengths and rates. The

stroke is exactly correct and designedalso to avoid any danger of breaking ribs,and can be deployed safely in a movingambulance by one paramedic in under 20seconds. Furthermore, a feed can be taken

DORSET AMBULANCE “LUCAS” APPEAL

7 Cycle Ink #141

from the oxygen bottle for the patient’sbenefit if needed. Peter gave us a lot oftechnical stuff about avoidance of heartengorgement, re-establishment of properheart rhythm and so on. The underlyingfact is that the research leading up to themachine has brought about a change ofprotocol in the way paramedics treat

cardiac arrest and a success rate whichhas climbed from about 10% to nearer40% with the Lucas equipment in use.The chances of getting the patient tohospital have dramatically improved. Wecan expect that the Lucas equipment willalso be installed in hospitals too. Theaction is near perfect, and unlike thehuman staff, it does not tire or break ribs.

Dorset Ambulance have need for almost50 of these machines on each of theirvehicles, and at £5000 each they cannotafford them all so they have decided to gofor public appeal which is where we havecome in our small way. You might thinkthey are expensive and so they are, butthey are the result of a great deal of

research and development and have to bemade to the highest standards ofreliability. All of that costs money.

8 Cycle Ink #141

THE DORSET COAST 200kmOn a gloriously sunny morning, if a little cool, 89 hardy souls set off from Wareham Quay onthe 29th Dorset Coast 200km. Entrants this year came from as far afield as Middlesboroughand Michigan, USA! The route took them around Poole Harbour and over the SandbanksFerry to enjoy the Purbecks to Corfe Castle early on a quiet Sunday morning. On toWeymouth via Lulworth the hills start to build up but they haven’t seen anything yet! Theroute via Abbotsbury to Bridport then Chideock, Ryall, Whitchurch Canonicorum andWootten Fitzpaine to Axminster is quite punishing. After lunch there is the climb back out ofAxminster then it’s a rewarding descent back to Loders before the fantastic climb of SpywayHill. Then it’s all plain sailing along the Roman Road to Dorchester and back to Wareham. 80finished the Dorset Coast in the time allowed. A few dodged a stray hail or snow shower butgenerally the weather was most kind this year.

142 started the less punishing Coastlet 100km event - they didn’t necessarily feel it was aneasier ride at first however with Creech Hill being within the first couple of miles. A quickvisit to Lulworth Cove before going to Weymouth added some extra hills this time but theride then went to Abbotsbury Swannery as usual so everyone could enjoy the climb up toHardy’s Monument - quite a few stopped to take in the stunning view this year as it was quitea clear day. 139 got round the Coastlet in the time allowed and most seem to approve of thenew route and less busy road to the finish. There were many tandems out this year includingJason Clark with a trailer bike too!

I was fortunate to have lots of volunteers to help the events go smoothly again this year -special thanks to Dave Chesworth and Mike Walsh for organising all the controllers inadvance, they did a superb job at the start too and then rode the Coastlet! Barney and DilysBarnes were up bright and early to manage the car park in Wareham and Ken Weston andJulian James had an early shift at Sandbanks Ferry; Rosie and Lucie coped with the rush atLulworth Cove and we had a little army of helpers in the form of Mike Durham, ValerieGreen, Alan Murkin, John Barnaby, John Hayter at Weymouth, with Johnny Read helpingwith the signage; at Dorchester it was our regulars in the shape of Clive Gerard and BrianArcher then at the finish there was Jean Burrell, Keith Matthews, Norman Payne, Wendy andLes Harris, and Terry and Agnes Walsh; not to mention of course my beloved pilot Nigel!Keith, Terry and Agnes were there to the bitter end too which made life easier as I was prettytired by the end of a long day having been able this year to ride the Coastlet too since we werenot catering this year (although given how tired I was at the start I think maybe Nigel did mostof the pushing that day). Thanks to them all and anyone I have forgotten who helped make theevent yet another success.

Next year it’s the 30th Dorset Coast so we’d like to make it something special for the DA tostage so will be needing lots of willing volunteers. Next year will be my last year oforganising it too so the DA urgently needs someone to come forward and take over the reinsfor 2008. I can always be there to help anyone new get into the swing of what needs to bedone because we really don’t want to lose this flagship event of the CTC and Audaxcalendars. The Dorset Coast is the longest running Audax event which people come from farand wide to ride - lets not lose that prestigious acclaim!

9 Cycle Ink #141

Hi, Just a belated thank you for another classic D.C. last weekend. What a ride, thatsunshine on the trip across Purbeck was wonderful. The bit between Bridport &Axminster is just magical, especially the view from Ryall. A sail would have come inhandy for the return, I think the Spyway was the only bit where any kind of pedallingwas required!! Thanks again & congrats on your news, Best wishes, Alan Davies

*****************Dear Annemarie, First, many thanks for another outstanding Dorset Coast 200km.It really is my favourite ride - I suppose that much is clear given that I have done it10 times now and I still come back from abroad primarily to take part. I’ll try to getback next year, perhaps as part qualification for the PBP. Ian. (Lewis)

*****************Annemarie, Thanks for everything – it was a fantastic route and I thoroughly enjoyedthe event. Cheers! Robin Sillett

*****************Annemarie, Many thanks for a great day on Sunday. The organisation & the effortinvolved must be tremendous & its all down to you & your helpers. Its very muchappreciated & I look forward to a continued association with the delights of theDorset countryside. Regards, John Bateman (Westerley R.C.)

*****************Many thanks for organising the Coast rides once again. We enjoyed the Coastlet andfound the run back from Dorchester much easier than last year. David & Ann Friend

*****************Hi there, Many thanks for yesterday’s organisation and thanks to the many helpers.I managed to cheat the weather and miss the afternoon rain and sleet. I fear that 200riders may not have been so lucky though. I’d never done the 100 before. It’s a greatride and delightfully rural (even 20% on Creech Hill wasn’t too bad!) Thanks again,Mick (Simmons)

*****************Annemarie, Just a quick note to say Many Thanks for an excellent Dorset Coastyesterday. Terrific route, great scenery, brutal hills, very welcome food at Axminster,and the weather held. Looking forward to same again next year. Martin Croxford

*****************Hello Annemarie, I really enjoyed the ride yesterday, thanks for the superb organi-zation as usual. Many thanks – Ben Jones

*****************Belatedly, many thanks for organising this ride. It was my first involvement in anAudax event & it did not disappoint. Good luck with future events. Alan Drake

*****************

POST EVENT MESSAGES

10 Cycle Ink #141

SAINT LO TWINNING 2006On the 5th May weekend we were invadedby the latest exchange visit from ourfriends at UC Saint Lo. Norman Paynetook charge of the event and expertlyco-ordinated everything mostsuccessfully. Organisers difficulties aremany and varied, but the last minutehigh-handed cancellation of BrittanyFerries sailing home on the Monday wasalmost beyond the call of duty.

The DA catered a free lunch at Cranbornefor any club members who wanted to turnup for the ride and there was a very happygathering. Having been to many of these

11 Cycle Ink #141

exchange visits before on both sides of the channel, I was struck by all the new faces onthe French side. Only a few of the old regulars remained, but these did include JeanVivier. Back in 1990 this twinning arrangement was started by the two Club Presidents,

Barbara Johnson for Wessex DA and Jean Vivier for UC Saint-Lo and we have beenvisiting each other every few years ever since. Our President this year, Jimmy Walkerwho is pictured on the cover, was much in evidence in his swirling kilt, handing outtrophies to all and sundry.

On Sunday evening we hosted a catered dinner at Sturminster Marshall Village Hall andwe all enjoyed an excellent meal with speeches, toasting, presentations and yes . . .community singing too. Norman led the room in rousing choruses of “Alloutte”, “FrereJaques”, and “Yesterday” and “My Bonny Lies over the Ocean” both in French andEnglish. I have to say that I thought the French contingent were better and moreenthusiastic at both language versions.

A successful weekend with good eating, good cycling and goodcompanionship with the host families from our club. With grateful thanks toNorman, Velda and all the organising team for all their hard work.

12 Cycle Ink #141

CYCLING THE RIVER LOIRESeptember / October 2005

Motivation - and a Word of Gratitude

We thank a stalwart of the CTC inBournemouth, Terry Walsh, for starting uson this adventure. He had been leading

the Saturday morning "introductory" ridesfrom Christchurch for a number of years.My wife, Penny, and I had been enjoyingdoing 25 miles with this group for a longtime before finally we took the plunge,joined the CTC, and felt like "real" cyclists.

We are most grateful to Debbie Murphy,

who initially lent us a copy of a guide tothe route (The Book) and to Terry'sbrother, Mike, for his continual supportand encouragement to start this adventure.At last we gave in to his arm-twisting and

booked our transport from Bournemouthto Valence in the Rhone-Alps region ofsouthern France. Yes - the Loire startsway down in the south of the MassifCentral, only about 100 miles from theMediterranean. As you can see from themap, by the time it gets to Orléans, it'salready more than half way from its

13 Cycle Ink #141

source, at le Gerbier de Jonc, to the sea, atSt Nazaire in Brittany.

PreparationSoftware When Penny presented me with the set of8 detailed IGN maps , I knew that therewas no going back. The pile ofinformation grew: the Michelin Guide tothe Chateaux of the Loire, the Logis deFrance handbook, our own copy of TheBook, a notebook, bilingual informationsheets for bike brakes and gears, etc. Wewere getting towards carrying aconsiderable weight of paper. So, out withscissors to remove the unnecessary partsof the maps and the guidebooks, thussaving a pound or so (half a Kg for theyoungsters).

Throughout the summer we'd be plottingthe gradients of local hills from the OSmaps and comparing them with those inThe Book, and checking our ability toclimb them (see Firmware), and thengoing out and buying bigger rear cassettes.

HardwareOur old bikes had done us proud for years,but most parts were, like the author,creaking, or cracked, or pretty well wornout. Although OK for short jaunts in andaround the New Forest (within mobilephone range of a taxi in an emergency) wecouldn't trust them for a long anddemanding expedition abroad. Webought two new Saracen Panoramatourers and kitted them out with somelower gears, rear panniers, lights, etc..Also, we thought we'd better get some of

14 Cycle Ink #141

the yellow, wick-away tops and paddedlycra shorts that "professionals" wear; butneither of us was convinced that cyclingshoes would be needed, so we stayed withour trusty old trainers.

FirmwareThat's she and me! We started asfloppyware, but recognised the need tobuild up our capability in stages over aperiod of about 3 months, to prepare mindand body for the onslaught! That was theplan, but family visitors descended fordays at a time through the summer, soeventually we put in about half theanticipated training.

Our scheduled aim was to get out 3 times aweek, often with local CTC groups,typically achieving about 120 miles perweek for 3 weeks. I was worried by myinability to keep up with the rest of theriders ascending hills. Going down waseasy for me - that was the bonus of beingoverweight! But, knowing the gradientsthat were in store for us as soon as we gotto France, we worked hard. At the timewe didn't notice any improvement, but inthe event, we felt it was worth putting inthe effort.

Never having toured before, we did twolong weekend rides, visiting friends andfamily, to discover what clothing andequipment was essential and what couldbe left at home. That experience enabledus to prune our loads for the mainexpedition by several pounds, to about 12- 14 pounds per pannier (5.5 - 6.5 Kgeach), plus picnic lunches, water, energybars, etc. Thankfully, we did not have tocarry camping equipment.

Getting to FranceThe Book recommends taking theEuropean Bikebus to Orange, so as to visitChateauneuf du Pape and the romanaqueduct at le Pont du Gard, beforereturning northwards towards the Loirevia the spectacular Gorges de l'Ardèche.Because we'd motored over the Gorgesbefore, we thought that we could dowithout the huge climbs and terrifyingdescents that would be involved at thestart of this journey. However, The Bookalso mentions a local bus which carries 2bikes some of the way towards the source,starting from Valence, south of Lyons.So, feeling in need of every assistance, wemade Valence our start point in France!

The internet has hods of information andrecommendations about methods of traveland preparing and packing bicycles fortransit. Apart from the CTC's pages, itwas contradictory and confusing.Eventually we decided on a one-way carhire from Bournemouth to StanstedAirport, Easyjet from Stansted to Lyon,shuttle bus in to Lyon city and train fromthere to Valence. Most was bookedon-line, and our fares totalled about thesame as two first class day returns by trainfrom Bournemouth to London!

Our return would be from by rail from StNazaire to Cherbourg; thence by ferry toPoole and by bike for the 8 miles home.Thus our bicycle packaging could bebinned at the first destination.

More on:www.bournemouthctc.org

15 Cycle Ink #141

ADVERTISEMENT

16 Cycle Ink #141

Editor:

The committee meeting date is the deadline for Newsletter contributions. Editorialpolicy is to print all contributions, with minimal editing for the purposes of layoutonly. Contribute by email, disk, CD-ROM, typed or handwritten. Photographs arenow welcome in any form. We can scan them and they will be returned safely.

Keith Matthews: 7 Cotes Avenue, Poole, BH14 0ND TEL: (01202) 740388 Email keithjanet@btinternet.com

http://www.wessexctc.org

“CycleInk” is the Newsletter of the Bournemouth & District Section, Wessex District Association of theCyclists’ Touring Club. Published four times a year for members. Views expressed are not necessarily those

of the club.

CTC HQ, 69 Meadrow, Godalming, Surrey GU7 3HShttp://www.ctc.org.uk

Contributions and Photographs

Date of next MeetingBournemouth Committee meeting at 7:00pm Wednesday August 23rd 2006

At the Conservative Club, Parr Street, Parkstone.

Many Wessex DA members attended the funeral of Ruth Mer-chant at Poole Crematorium on 16th March. The DA made adonation of £50 in memory of Ruth to Cancer Research UK, thecharity chosen by the Merchant family.

A letter has been received from Ruth’s daughter, Jill Wilkins,thanking Wessex DA members for their contributions and sup-port at the funeral. The donations have benefitted the charity byalmost £1000.

Ruth Merchant

Page 1 of 11

Cycling the River Loire - September/October 2005by Damian Buckley

Motivation - and a Word of GratitudeWe thank a stalwart of the CTC in Bournemouth, Terry Walsh, for starting us on this adventure. He hadbeen leading the Saturday morning “introductory” rides from Christchurch for a number of years. Mywife, Penny, and I had been enjoying doing 25 miles with this group for a long time before finally wetook the plunge, joined the CTC, and felt like “real” cyclists.We are most grateful to Debbie Murphy, who initially lent us a copy of a guide to the route (The Book)1

and to Terry’s brother, Mike, for his continual support and encouragement to start this adventure.At last we gave in to his arm-twisting and booked our transport from Bournemouth to Valence in theRhone-Alps region of southern France. Yes - the Loire starts way down in the south of the MassifCentral, only about 100 miles from the Mediterranean. As you can see from the map, by the time it getsto Orléans, it’s already more than half way from its source, at le Gerbier de Jonc, to the sea, atSt Nazaire in Brittany.

Figure 1 - Outline Map of the Route

PreparationSoftware When Penny presented me with the set of 8 detailed IGN maps2, I knew that there wasno going back. The pile of information grew: the Michelin Guide to the Chateaux of the Loire, the Logisde France handbook, our own copy of The Book, a notebook, bilingual information sheets for bikebrakes and gears, etc. We were getting towards carrying a considerable weight of paper. So, out withscissors to remove the unnecessary parts of the maps and the guidebooks, thus saving a pound or so(half a Kg for the youngsters). 1 Cycling the River Loire, by John Higginson, ISBN 1 85284 383 7 Place names, road numbers and directionsare given in detail in this book; if we mentioned them they are our deviations or points of special note.2 Institute Geographique National “Carte de Promenade”, 1:100 000, numbers 24, 25, 26, 27, 36, 43, 50, 52

Page 2 of 11

Throughout the summer we’d be plotting the gradients of local hills from the OS maps and comparingthem with those in The Book, and checking our ability to climb them (see Firmware), and then going outand buying bigger rear cassettes.Hardware Our old bikes had done us proud for years, but most parts were, like the author,creaking, or cracked, or pretty well worn out. Although OK for short jaunts in and around theNew Forest (within mobile phone range of a taxi in an emergency) we couldn’t trust them for a long anddemanding expedition abroad. We bought two new Saracen Panorama tourers and kitted them outwith some lower gears, rear panniers, lights, etc.. Also, we thought we’d better get some of the yellow,wick-away tops and padded lycra shorts that “professionals” wear; but neither of us was convinced thatcycling shoes would be needed, so we stayed with our trusty old trainers.Firmware That’s she and me! We started as floppyware, but recognised the need to build up ourcapability in stages over a period of about 3 months, to prepare mind and body for the onslaught! Thatwas the plan, but family visitors descended for days at a time through the summer, so eventually we putin about half the anticipated training.Our scheduled aim was to get out 3 times a week, often with local CTC groups, typically achievingabout 120 miles per week for 3 weeks. I was worried by my inability to keep up with the rest of theriders ascending hills. Going down was easy for me - that was the bonus of being overweight! But,knowing the gradients that were in store for us as soon as we got to France, we worked hard. At thetime we didn’t notice any improvement, but in the event, we felt it was worth putting in the effort.Never having toured before, we did two long weekend rides, visiting friends and family, to discover whatclothing and equipment was essential and what could be left at home. That experience enabled us toprune our loads for the main expedition by several pounds, to about 12 - 14 pounds per pannier (5.5 - 6.5 Kg each), plus picnic lunches, water, energy bars, etc. Thankfully, we did not have to carrycamping equipment.

Getting to FranceThe Book recommends taking the European Bikebus to Orange, so as to visit Chateauneuf du Papeand the roman aqueduct at le Pont du Gard, before returning northwards towards the Loire via thespectacular Gorges de l’Ardèche. Because we’d motored over the Gorges before, we thought that wecould do without the huge climbs and terrifying descents that would be involved at the start of thisjourney. However, The Book also mentions a local bus which carries 2 bikes some of the way towardsthe source, starting from Valence, south of Lyons. So, feeling in need of every assistance, we madeValence our start point in France!The internet has hods of information andrecommendations about methods of travel andpreparing and packing bicycles for transit.Apart from the CTC’s pages, it wascontradictory and confusing. Eventually wedecided on a one-way car hire fromBournemouth to Stansted Airport, Easyjet fromStansted to Lyon, shuttle bus in to Lyon city andtrain from there to Valence. Most was bookedon-line, and our fares totalled about the sameas two first class day returns by train fromBournemouth to London!Our return would be from by rail fromSt Nazaire to Cherbourg; thence by ferry toPoole and by bike for the 8 miles home. Thusour bicycle packaging could be binned at thefirst destination.We begged manufacturer’s cardboard cartonsfrom the local bike shop, added a polytheneshoe3 to the trailing end and prepared to lugthem behind us for the outward journey.

3 Half of a 2 litre ice-cream carton, attached with Duck tape, makes for a wear-resistant and slippery tail endfor crossing tarmac, paving slabs, cobbles, etc. - see Figure 2.

Figure 2 - Bike Cartons, with Slippery Tails

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Our arrangements worked: although we had to dismantle the bikes to fit inside them, the boxessurvived the attentions of the airport baggage handlers and our own efforts. (Tip No 1 - look for thetrolleys and disabled access points and lifts.) At last, after a 5.45 a.m. departure from Bournemouth,we tumbled in to our hotel in Valence at 7.45 p.m.

En-route for the SourceNext morning, whilst I finished off re-assembling the bikes, Penny visited the bus station and discoveredthat the next bike-carrying bus departed 5 hours later. We decided to cycle all the way to our firstnight’s stop at Lamastre, aiming to be there before the bus set off, or, if the going was just too steep, wewould still have time to return to Valence to catch the transport.The first 5 miles of the D533 were fairly easy: cycle lanes helped us in the city, then we were over theRiver Rhône, pausing to photograph the impressive ruined fort perched on a high point above the roadand trying not to notice the even more impressive hills behind it. Fortunately, the sun was shining andour hopes were high. We were off! Within the hour we were “toiling in the boiling”: the gradient felt like30º and the temperature was exactly that! It was just as it said in The Book - a lung-searing ascent(LSA), to be followed in due course by a “thrilling” descent.That was the pattern of our first 3 days: hot hard work! In this region of extinct volcanoes, it was aseries of hard climbs of several hundreds of metres up to a col (or pass), then down the other side,losing most of the height, usually crossing a river in the valley bottom, then repeating the process. TheD578 took us from Lamastre to Le Cheylard to Mézilhac, where we joined the route of The Book.By mid-morning of day 3, we made it to the source - from Valence, at about 40 metres above sea level,to the crossroads under the summit of le Gerbier de Jonc at 1417 metres - just under a mile high. Andstill we enjoyed warm sunshine and blue skies for the final climb up to the tip of the cone, on foot, togaze out for miles over an impressive panorama of peaks and valleys as far as the eye could see.

Figure 3 - The Watershed between Atlantic & Mediterranean

Figure 4 - The Summit of le Gerbier de Jonc

This official source of the Loire is a spout of good-tasting water, jetting into a cattle trough at theentrance to an erstwhile cowshed; now a souvenir shop. There are a few other springs in theneighbourhood, which could equally well claim to be the source, but being close to the road, this officialone is convenient for tourist access and the vending of refreshments and mementoes!

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The MassifFrom the source, our road twisted downhill for some 5 miles, and our river grew from a modest streamto a proper 10-metre wide river, fed by dozens of rivulets trickling off the high moorland. We wishedwe’d stopped to take photographs of the infant Loire, but, at 30 mph, we were watching the road: therewas no time to look at the scenery!After a long day’s ride through the northern Cevennes, and without having booked any accommodation,we were extremely relieved to fall in to the very hotel in the village of Goudet that Robert LouisStevenson had used whilst on his “Travels with a Donkey”.The next day was cold and rainy. As we went up a few more LSA’s, the temperature went down anddown. By lunchtime it was 8ºC, having been 28ºC the previous day, and we were crammed on everyitem of the (summer) clothing that we’d taken. As we approached le Puy en Velay, the squally showerswere throwing stinging sleet at us, threatening to blow us in to the roadside ditches. We were pleasedto be entering a large town after the sparse, isolated and spartan hamlets through which we’d passed.On our arrival, Le Puy was “en fête”: the annual medieval festival was in full swing and we stayed a twonights here. We rubbed elbows with lords and ladies, soldiers and serfs, farmers and farriers. Wedrank the spiced wine and ate the mincemeat (meat and fruit) pies and watched the street entertainers -a welcome break from turning the pedals, but ye gods it was wintry!

Figure 5 - 10 miles from the Source at la Palisse Figure 6 - Live Music in le Puy-en-Velay

For the next three days we cycled northwards, outwards from the severe, inhospitable and unforgivingheart of the Massif. We endured many long LSA’s and were rewarded by magnificent views fromsummits, until, north of the city of Roanne, the countryside relented and became less harsh. Cliffs androcks, forests and scrubland gave way to fields and farms alongside the river. Man had been able tomake his mark on the land. This was the sort of France that we’d cycled before, and to which we’dlooked forward.

Twixt Massif and OrléansFrom Roanne, the Loire continues its middle course - wide, established and stately - for some 200miles in a generally northerly direction, paralleled for a considerable distance by canals, firstly the“Roanne - Digion”, then the “Latéral à la Loire”. The route here is often closer to the bank of canal thanthe river, making for fast, level riding, until bridges are encountered.At Digoin, an aqueduct carries the canal over the river. An interesting and unusual engineeringmonument to the Napoleonic era, it provide a good excuses to stop pedalling for a while and takephotographs. Modern industry is to be found in this region too: a massive power station, a concretepipe factory, sited either in the open countryside or just across the road from a medieval monastery -typically French!Passing Décize; we reached Nevers, with its cathedral - bombed by the RAF during the war and nowboasting some startlingly modern stained glass - and took time to stroll past its ducal palace, historicstreets, walls and towers.

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A little further on, La Charité-sur-Loire is a modest-sized, historic town, as full of bookshops as Hay-on-Wye. Between the two world wars, because of the width of the river and the town’s situation, midwaybetween the mouth of the Seine and the Mediterranean Sea, it became a staging and resupply point forseaplanes and flying boats.A few miles further downriver we diverted to visit the attractive hilltop wine town of Sancerre. Thepanorama from the top would have been worth the LSA, but, by the time we reached the viewpoint, theclouds gave up the unequal struggle and released a deluge which lasted all afternoon. Thankgoodness for the under-cover car park and the hotel-restaurant opposite! Eventually, we were awashwith coffee and had run out of postcards to write, so out we went. What a time to discover that yournew helmet seems to funnel the water along your specs and straight in to your eyes! But hey - whoneeds to see the map anyway! And what joy to find, when you get there, that the overnight hoteldoesn’t open for another half hour yet!!The next day reminds us that autumn has arrived; it’s cool and misty. We get some atmosphericcamera shots around the picturesque Mantelôt Ecluse, a canal-river junction at Chatillon-sur-Loire.Two miles up the road we go under a bridge and then up beside it. It’s another Pont Canal, decoratedwith sculptures and elaborate lamp standards, taking the canal over the Loire to Briare on the oppositebank. We use it to visit this attractive small town with pleasure boats in the canal basins. Locks,bridges and pretty baskets of flowers everywhere complete the picture. Unusually, its church is facedwith ceramic tiles; once a staple product of the area.

Then it’s on past Gien, to Sully-sur-Loire, where we stop briefly for a look at the first of the “Chateaux ofthe Loire” before crossing to the north bank to allow us to visit St Benôit-sur-Loire. The village namecomes from the Benedictine monastery there. (In 672 the Saint’s mortal remains were transferred therefrom their original resting place in Montecassino and became the focus for spreading his principlesthrough the western world.) After re-crossing the river at Chateauneuf-sur-Loire, we eventually stop forthe night at Jargeau, an unexciting little town about 8 miles east of the centre of Orléans.Another fine day greets us; our route takes us along the flat top of the raised levée, overlookingcarefully cultivated expanses of market garden produce and on into the outskirts of Orléans - whereThe Book runs out of accurate guidance - just where you need it. But by now we can relate the map tothe ground, to within a hundred yards or so, so we leave the cycle track and follow the road which takesus under the railway and up on to a cycle track on the large bridge leading in to the city. We chickenout of the busy roundabout and push our bikes over the two carriageways and in to the narrow streetsleading to the cathedral.The scale of the building is BIG - designed by the same architect as Notre Dame in Paris, and verysimilar to it; but this cathedral’s twin towers are topped with “crowns” of delicate stonework, since at thetime of its construction, Orleans was the capital of France. Inside, the life story of Joan of Arc is told inthe stained glass windows and on the wall of her chapel is a memorial plaque, in English and French tocommemorate the one million dead of the British Empire who gave their lives in the Great War. A

Figure 7 - The Pont-canal at Digoin Figure 8 - The Pont-canal at Briare

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poignant reminder of the futility of war and of man’s inhumanity to man, but housed in a soaring palaceof peace.

There is more lovely architecture to be seen in the nearby squares; elaborate ironwork on thebalconies, buildings topped with slate-covered cupolas and decorated with flamboyant, confident fin-du-Siécle carving and caryatids, which combine to create a harmonious and satisfying atmosphere. Thereare reasons to stay longer, but still many more miles to be done before nightfall.

Figure 9 - Sully-sur-Loire

Figure 10 - Orléans Cathedral

Orléans to Angers - the Real Chateaux CountryThe recommended route out of Orléans, following the GR 03 right alongside the north bank of the river,is a bit of a snare and a delusion. To be sure, it’s traffic-free, but it’s such slow going. It is not clearlymarked in some places; some parts have poor surfaces and the approach to St Ay it is downrightdangerous and should be avoided by cyclists.There has to be a better way to leave the city - but by the time we realised this, we’d toiled along forover an hour, avoiding pedestrians and their dogs, and only achieved about 3 miles from the modern,“rainbow-arc-ed” Pont de l’Europe bridge, which marks the end of Orléans. The alternatives were eitherto retrace our path back in to the city and look for a route on the south bank or to use the nearby RN152towards our destination. We decided to join the incessantly busy traffic on the Route Nationale and getalong it as fast as we could to Meung-sur-Loire, where we were due to cross the river again. It was abit hairy, but at least we were travelling at 15 mph and not a walking pace.Over the river and on to the D78, a more tranquil road, whew! Our aim was to reach a bed andbreakfast at the village of Thoury, putting us close to the chateau of Chambord, for a visit the nextmorning. The delay on the GR03 meant that we were behind schedule and daylight was starting to go:with some apprehension we made best speed towards Beaugency. At the junction with the D19, thecommuters were going like the clappers, hell-bent on getting home for supper, so we left the plannedroute to by-pass the town.The man with the map was confident of his ability to regain the original route eventually, but the tiredand hungry wife was full of foreboding. Thankfully, after a couple of miles a farmer confirmed that we

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were going in the right direction, but there was still a good distance to be covered. The day wasbecoming cooler, we were getting more tired, the light was beginning to go, the road ran uphill througha forbidding forest, as far as the eye could see. After 10 miles of relentless riding we arrived at thevillage, only to find that we still had to carry on in to the unknown, looking for a farm in the back ofbeyond. At last we found it, and although distinctly agricultural, it was never so welcome.The next morning, we were glad to be on our way to visit the chateau of Chambord. Built in the time ofFrançois I, it is vast and magnificent, covered with ornate chimneys, turrets and spires: several hoursshould be allocated to do it justice.

Figure 11 - Chambord, North Façade Figure 12 - Chambord, South Façade

We took the D33 from there to the city of Blois. What a pleasure it was to stay in a reasonable hoteland meet English-speaking fellow cyclists of a similar age, who had brought their bikes over fromCanada. We swapped many a story over supper and wished them well on their (non-cycling) visit toBarcelona, then set off to explore the chateau. Again, well worth the visit - two hours should sufficehere - but try to be taking a coffee/beer at midday outside the cafe/bar near the end of the courtyardshown in Figure 13. A surprise awaits you!

Figure 13 - Blois, East façade

Figure 14 - Blois, Typical Ornamental Fireplace withthe royal emblems of the Salamander and Ermine

From Blois we followed the southern bank toAmboise. We skipped the chateau and cathedralhere, to avoid cultural overload, since we hadearmarked the afternoon for Chenonceaux beforereturning to Amboise for the night.

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The château is a few km to the south of the Loire, literally on the river Cher: the arches of the bridge-like foundations, which can just be seen in Figure 15, house the kitchens and other domesticdepartments. As at Blois, monumental fireplaces are much in evidence

Left: Figures 15, 16 - Chenonceaux - the châteaufrom the garden and vice versa

Above: Figure 17 - The Salamander and Ermineportrayed on a grand fireplace at Chenonceaux

The following day we set off in the rain for Tours, through a succession of vineyards. After taking in adégustation in Montlouis-sur-Loire, we found an alternative to the fairly busy D751, almost parallel andabout ½ a mile south of it, running past the extensive rubbish tip, then through a retail / business park,on past an enormous factory area, followed by the ubiquitous high-rise apartments that seem tosurround most French cities and on in to the centre of Tours.The tourist information office is on the north side ofthe “main” east-west boulevard, 150 yards north ofthe station. We were given a helpful map, with anenlargement of the city centre. Even with this toguide us, the one-way systems seemed always tobe the wrong way round to the British way ofthinking! Again, we spent two nights here, sincethere is lots to see: and one major task is toreconnoitre the route out of it and avoid joining thesouth-bound dual carriageway!! We ended upleaving on the D88, or was it the 48(?) between theLoire and the Cher, passing through more acres ofwell-tended market garden produce, as far asSavonnières, where we rejoined the D7.

Figure 18 - The Bridge at Tours

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Because we were wanted to visit the chateau at Azay-le-Rideau, we continued though Villandry to thejunction with the autoroute and took the steeply climbing D39 south before dropping down some mileslater, in to the little town on the river Indre, beside which the chateau stands.Azay is not as immense as Chambord or Blois - it rises like a graceful, iced cake from the surroundingmoat. In common with the others we had visited, this chateau contained huge, elaborate fireplaces,sporting the salamander4, fine old stone carvings, tapestries and furniture, as well as elaborate turretsand roofs.

Figure 19 - The château of Azay-le-Rideau

Figure 20 - Azay-le-Rideau”Salamandered” Fireplace

Rejoining the D7 at Marnay, we continued past the fairy-tale castle of Ussé, allegedly the setting forSleeping Beauty, and pass a less-attractive, modern architectural monument: the nuclear power stationof Chinon. Shortly after that, we cross the River Vienne at its confluence with the Loire at Candes-StMartin, an attractive little town whose church is built on the spot where the Saint died in 397. The storyis told that as his body was being taken upstream to Orléans during November, the shrubs on the river-bank burst in to flower, giving rise to the expression of a “St Martin’s summer”.At this point, we experience our only loss of air from a tyre on the whole voyage: not a puncture but afailure of a tube seam. Pressing on, we note the that hillsides on our left bank of the Loire are coveredin vines with the names of the vineyards spelt out in large white letters: also the cliffs are riddled withcaves and troglodyte dwellings - walled-up caves, with windows, doors and chimneys incorporated.In Saumur, we discover that our hotel is 2 miles outof town on the northern side at the entrance to alight industry park. The architecture and mealmatch the setting and we are pleased to be on ourway the following morning to see the historic part ofthe town and make the steep ascent to the castleramparts for fine views over the city. Time for adrink . . . where did someone leave his bidon? Yes,at the back of the hotel ordinaire, perched where wewouldn’t forget it whilst loading up in the morning!So, nothing for it but to retrace our tracks over theriver, the mid-river island, the next bridge, etc., etc.,to the hotel, pick up the water, and set off again,regaining our route, past a cavalry barracks, and,via cycle tracks around and under a major

4 The salamander was the armorial device of King François 1 of France

Figure 21 - Château of Saumur

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intersection, leading to the comparative calm of the D751. This road took us through a succession ofsmall, generally pleasing and historic villages, most of the way towards Les Ponts-de-Cé, 2 miles ofbridges and revetments over the Louet and Loire, with a tower guarding the entrance to Angers.

Figures 22, 23, 24 - En-route to Angers - Trèves, Chênhutte and Les Ponts-de-Cé

Angers is must-see city and we were pleased to spend two nights at the Hotel Continental, centrallyplaced, with a little room for bike storage and a reasonable tariff. The ancient chateau dominates thebridge over the River Maine, near its confluence with the Loire. It houses the largest medieval tapestryin France, similar in importance to the Bayeux, depicting the end of the world and last judgement - asunderstood at that time. Again, a knowledgeable guide brought the subject to life for us. Again, thearchitecture of the historic centre with its churches and houses was a joy to behold.

Figures 25, 26, 27 - Footloose in Angers - Old House and Château Garden

Angers to the Coast - The Last LegLeaving Angers, via Les Ponts-de-Cé, we join the Corniche Angevine, undulating over the many smallhills and valleys with streams feeding the wide-spreading Loire, where the valley below is now a coupleof miles across. A little before La Haie Longue, we pause at a pair of sombre granite memorials topioneers of flight, one to René Gasnier, and one to his brother and wife within a tomb dedicated to OurLady of Loretto, Patron of Aviators. We lunch at the waters edge at the village of St-Florent-le-Viel andtake in a visit to the abbey. The adjacent gardens have a memorial column about half the height ofNelson’s in Trafalgar Square, commemorating nothing more than the visit of a duchess in the 1800’s.Stopping only to take a swig at Bouzillé, we venture in to the little town of Ancenis with its ancientriverside castle, sited to exact taxes from passing merchant vessels. These had to pass right againstthe castle walls, thanks to barriers placed in the river to guide them there.The road then climbs to the clifftop village of Champtoceaux, one of the most important medieval citiesof France, and whose name is derived from ‘city in the sky’. Some excellent panoramic views can behad from the gardens behind the central church. Leaving the village, we whizz down the steep hill toriver level, only to be confronted by a hard climb again, before the road flattens out on the river bank.

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Soon after stopping to photograph the floral watering can at La Pierre Percée, you must turn right onthe D37 to cross the bridge in to Thouare-sur-Loire (unless you intend to take the Nantes motorwayring-road). Immediately after crossing, take a track to the left, which is the GR03 and follow it, andthen a cycle track, directly in to the heart of the huge city of Nantes.We missed our directions by the railway station, but followed our noses to a vast open area of trafficislands, teeming with cars buses and trams. Thankfully we were close to the tourist information office,which gave us an excellent map, showing numerous cycleways, one of which went due west, throughinterminable miles of old docks, then waste tips, then an eternity of suburban sprawl until we were clearof Coueron, with its shot tower and former naval base. Suddenly we emerged in to the deepest depthsof unimproved rural France: a network of narrow roads through flat marshy fields, with only herons andcows for company. After joining the D93, the chimneys of yet another nuclear power station(Cordemais) became visible, grew, and diminished, then our destination for the day - Savenay. Quitethe most depressing and dusty little town that we ever stayed in - the nearby railway station wasprobably the most interesting feature. We should have taken the hint in The Book and lodged just tothe north.But we were excited: the next day would be the last one! So, with light hearts and in bright sunshine weset off for the last dozen miles, past the huge oil terminal at Donges, past the airfield, stopping for aphotograph of that breathtaking new bridge winding its way in to the sky, then on in to the town of StNazaire. Follow around the docks and you can feel the long road is leading you to the sea. And there itis - the American memorial, the seafront, the beach. We’ve made it!

Figure 28 - Near Nantes - La Pierre Percée Figure 29 - St Nazaire Seafront - The American Plaque

After a champagne picnic, it was time to plan our return to UK. Who can believe that it takes fromSaturday lunchtime until Sunday evening to get to Cherbourg for the ferry to Poole? and five trains?and an overnight hotel in Rennes? Ah well - all part of the great experience!

THE LOIRE

SOURCE TO SEA

JOURNALOF OUR

GREAT ADVENTURE

Penny & Damian Buckley SEPTEMBER 2005

Day 1 Tuesday, 13 SeptemberBournemouth Stansted Lyon Valence

The great adventure of our Gap Month starts at 5.45 am. The bikes arein their boxes in the car as also are the panniers, all that remains is topack hand luggage and the ‘codes’. We make good time to Stanstedand our luggage is safely checked in as ‘outsize’. Cheap ‘n cheerful isthe Easyjet watchword but our flight is completely uneventful. Wearrive at Lyon and take the shuttle bus into the city centre. There aretwo railway stations in Lyon but the time to transfer the bikes from thebus to either station is never quite enough, consequently bloodpressure is raised somewhat! We finally get onto a train with ourunwieldy luggage and arrive in Valence. Hotel les Négociants iswonderfully close to the station. It is sophisticated and provides a goodmeal. It is a world away from most English Station Hotels - we are noteven kept awake by the rumble of trains.

After a good meal, we take a walk for a coffee and finish up directly infront of the station. It too is a world away from the average Britishstation, pleasing architecturally and clean. We fall into bed tired butvery excited at the prospect of cycling tomorrow.

Bikes ready for flying

Day 2 Wednesday, 14 SeptemberValence Lamastre 40kms

Our first priority is to assemble the bikes. They seem to have survivedthe journey well and by 12.00 midday are ready. We have an excellentfortifying lunch and decide to get to Lamastre by bike. This is a changeof plan as we thought we would take the local bus which can carry twobikes as far as St Agrève. The infrequency of this service means thenext one doesn’t depart till very late afternoon and we are reluctant tobe arriving at our destination so late. We set off.

The road out of Valence takes us over the Rhône and immediately wesee the mountains from which the region, Rhône Alpes, takes its name.The sun is shining and almost immediately we begin climbingrelentlessly, in fact eight miles of steep climbing - not quite lung searingbut not far off. It is a stark introduction to the reality of the Massif so wecan only make 4 mph. We stop for rest/refreshment at an isolatedcrossroads and get our first experience of that ‘hors saison’ feeling;tables, chairs and sun umbrellas are all stacked away for the winter.At about 15 miles we have climbed to 758m at Col des Fans - thehighest point of the ride, after which we have a lovely, long downhilldescent into Lamastre.

Hotel les Négociants in Valence made our booking at, coincidentally,Hotel les Négociants in Lamastre. It is a typical French Logis,absolutely adequate but the decor is rather 70s. The meal is good.Afterwards we talk to a couple who had seen us at Col des Fans. Theywere suitably impressed by our plans and offer advice and good wishesfor the ascent ofle Mont Gerbier.

Col des Fans

Day 3 Thursday,15 SeptemberLamastre Lachamp Rafaël 54kms

Hotel les Négociants in Lamastre is as disobliging as its namesake inValence was the opposite. The accent is on ‘petit’ for déjeuner and weleave Lamastre at 9.45 am destination Le Cheylard. First 10 kms to thecoffee stop is a fair climb followed by downhill run into Le Cheylard. Ifeel frustrated that, having once achieved a certain height, we have tocome down most of it, only to go back up to an even greater height.There’s not much to be done about it and we start the remorseless,relentless Lung Searing Ascent (LSA) to Mézilhac. This is probablygoing to be the most challenging climb, if the profiles in the Little Bookare to be believed. The Book is absolutely right, the road is a series ofsharp hairpins with unprotected edges. It is hot and hard work and wescarcely exceed 4.5 mph. There are no villages and few houses and Iwonder why I was so keen to start this crazy exercise.

We arrive at Mézilhac, a windswept unexciting col. Mont Gerbier deJonc is still some 15 kms distant but Damian thinks we might make itand we set off. This turns out to be far too optimistic and we decide tolook for accommodation in Lachamp Rafaël, the next village, which,allegedly, has a hotel. To call it ‘hotel’ is to give it delusions ofgrandeur. We have difficulty finding M le Patron but he eventually turnsup and shows us his best room which we accept gratefully. It iscertainly not what we would choose but beggars and choice come tomind and despite all its shortcomings, which are many, there is plentyof deliciously hot water, though the bath and basin do not bear closescrutiny.

We find somewhere to serve us supper, which is clean and resolve toannotate the Little Book which advises Lachamp Rafaël as having ‘nofacilities’. By 8.30 pm the good folk of Lachamp have turned in and wedo the same. Tomorrow is the day for Gerbier de Jonc and the sourceof the Loire. So ends the second day of our Great Adventure.

Day 4 Friday, 16 SeptemberLachamp Rafaël Le Gerbier Goudet 64kms

We are more than happy to shake the dust off our heels at Lachamp.After a mean breakfast, we set off for Le Gerbier at 9.00 am - it’s coolbut then it’s high - 1200 m. We are soon crossing the watershedbetween the Mediterranean and the Atlantic and the road climbs to over1400 m, finally, the extinct volcano is suddenly there before us, a moststrange, rocky extrusion on the landscape about 85 m high. We lockup the bikes and set about the climb, following a well indicated path butnevertheless moderately challenging. It is an amazing feeling, afterweeks/months of looking at this spot on the map, on the dining roomtable, we are here. Many times I doubted we would get to this point;we almost talked ourselves out of the whole adventure several times,doubting if we would have the stamina. It’s a great feeling at the topand we make sure we have plenty of photographic proof of the eventbefore coming down.

Before we leave, we visit the cowshed in which we find one of theapparently many sources of the Loire. The building is refurbished and,because of its symbolic importance, is accorded due reverence.

Time is moving on and we set off for the rest of the day’s ride. Thereare still some LSAs but from now on it will generally be downhill. TheLoire starts off as a modest stream but quickly becomes wider. After 8miles at La Palisse it is a river tumbling over rocks and boulders besidelovely meadows.

As we race along thinking all’s right with the world and ‘we’ve done it’,Damian lets out a strangled cry that a wasp has stung him in themouth. I’m worried and relive my own wasp experience, so launch intofull paramedic role, I attempt to see the sting on his lower lip and suck itout. From this episode, I decide that such adventures can only beundertaken with a cycling companion with whom one is on the mostintimate terms! I cannot say if the procedure has been successful butgive him Piriton, after 15 minutes we set off again - chastened andmouths firmly closed.

After another LSA, we stop for lunch at the ‘lavoir’ (medievallaunderette) at Usclades and arrive at Lac d’Issarlès about 4.00 pm, tooearly to think of stopping for the day, so we press on for Goudet. This

is a mistake and we’re tired and worried that Goudet will not have ahotel. Mercifully it does and M le Patron is welcoming and kind enoughto do our washing for free.

Increasing the height of Mont Gerbier de Jonc!

Day 5 Saturday, 17 SeptemberGoudet Le Puy en Velay 31 kms

We wake to a very cold grey damp morning. We would have snatchedat almost any excuse to delay our departure but there is nothing tokeep us in Goudet. The village is built almost exclusively of the greyishblack volcanic rock of the region and today looks forbidding andunwelcoming. Before we leave M le Patron says if we can’t findaccommodation in Le Puy, due to the fête, Roi des Oiseaux, we canring him and he will come in his car, collect us and our bikes and bringus back to Goudet. This is a most kind and generous offer, we hopewe don’t have to take up but nevertheless is a good back stop. Beforeleaving we rouse the keyholder of the church who shows us round. Infact, the church is surprisingly warm and well maintained especially asthere is no regular weekly mass.

We head out of Goudet straight into a LSA. Again it takes about anhour to do 4kms. Coffee stop is St Martin de Fugères at a warm,inviting bar/patisserie which we share with eight walkers on the RobertLouis Stevenson trail. RLS wrote his Travels with a Donkey in this areaof the Cevennes. We swap notes and they are suitably impressed atour adventure, they also strongly advise us to book our hotel in Le Puywhich we do. As we leave it is still cold and grey and I am thankful forTim’s old tracksters which have proved to be leg savers if not lifesavers.

The road is still very hilly, particularly the approach to Solignac. Thereis a hunt taking place in the woods and I see my first wild, wild boar -only briefly and not in the woods but in the unlikely setting at the edgeof a stone quarry. I assume it is the quarry (no pun intended!) sincethere are dogs barking and baying all around. The French appear to bemuch less squeamish about hunting and there are none of the classovertones with which some people associate hunting in this country.

The bus shelter in Solignac is our lunch stop, affording a little shelterfrom the cold - it is 8º! The village is not particularly exciting but has abar for hot tea. M le Patron tells us it can get to -27º which seemsamazing since I didn’t think we were in the Russian steppes.

We set off down hill to Le Puy. This is the first town of any size andthere is a rather good feeling as we ride in. The centre of town is full of

medieval strollers of all ranks and classes; it’s the XXth FêtesRenaissance du Roi de l’Oiseau. We watch jugglers, dancers,minstrels, drink Hypocras, eat mincemeat pies listen to the animal bandbut cannot see the real dancing bear for the crowds. Everyone, fromthe very old to the youngest toddler, has entered the spirit of the eventbut it does not seem forced or contrived.

Tomorrow we shall have a rest day to see some of Le Puy.

Notre Dame de France

St Michel d’Aiguilhe

Day 6 Sunday, 18 SeptemberRest Day at Le Puy

The day dawns no brighter than yesterday; it’s cold and grey but thebreakfast is good and substantial. Thus fortified we set out early,choosing one of the town walks to take us round the old town. Le Puyis built in a region of extinct volcanoes and the old town is full of tinywinding cobbled lanes, which defy anyone to build anything, let alonemassive edifices such as the cathedral. Soon the ‘medieval’ folk areabroad, including one herding a flock of geese with the aid of a goosedog. This seems a novel concept but on reflection only an extension ofthe idea of a sheep dog. After mass at the cathedral, we find our wayto Notre Dame de France. A truly remarkable hollow structure built onanother volcanic plug. It is similar in idea to the Statue of Libertythough not as big. It is made from the captured and melted downcannons seized at Sebastapol and has looked reassuringly down on LePuy for nearly 150 years

Finding something to eat is not easy. There seem to be many medievalcauldrons boiling up anonymous victuals but most look unappetisingthough hot which has a certain attraction. In the end we find somecharentaise mussels - a long way from home but good.

To warm up, we walk to St Michel d’Aiguilhe, a chapel built on anothervolcanic plug. This too defies all my previously held notions ofconstruction. There seems to be room for no more than a couple ofdozen workers and then there are the building materials to be broughtup! It all seems incredible but they managed it in 962 and thenenlarged it later.

Le Puy was one of the main gathering points for pilgrims on the route toCompostela. The cockleshell symbol of St James is everywhere,carved on pillars, door lintels, in niches etc. In the 21st century pilgrimsare still making the journey; a German couple AND their dog weresetting out from our hotel as we were checking out. I am not sure if it istourism or spirituality perhaps one comes from the other.

The week of medieval merry making of Roi des Oiseaux culminates ina procession of several hundred participants from the cathedral to thelower part of the town. It’s noisy, colourful and quite unlike anythingseen in England. We feel lucky to have arrived, coincidentally, in LePuy when it was taking place. Tomorrow we are on the road again.

Day 7 Monday, 19 SeptemberLe Puy Aurec sur Loire 87 kms

The rest day is over and we think it may be a little warmer. We have afull day’s cycling ahead; quite how full we don’t realise till later on. Witha good breakfast inside us we set out for Le Pertuiset. Unfortunately,we cannot book the hotel, so immediately we have a slightly uneasyfeeling. It is Monday and many/most shops and hotels close onMonday, certainly in country areas. On leaving Le Puy we learn of adeviation in the area of Lavoute Polignac. This is just where we aregoing but are confident that ‘Route Barrée’ couldn’t possible apply tocyclists - not so! We have to turn back and make a massive LSAdetour up over the mountain which adds at least 1½ hours to ourjourney; at times we can only manage 3.9 mph. While toiling up, achap stops his car and we chat about our adventure. He too is a cyclistand has cycled from St Nazaire up the Loire. He’s pleasant but I thinkno more about it. When he gets back in his car, though, I marvel atsuch friendliness and doubt whether anyone would stop in England insimilar circumstances. We press on and reach our lunch stop at Vorey.It too has the deserted Monday feel about it but we do find a bar for hottea. Shortly after, in walks our friend from the LSA, quite obviously heset out to find us having an idea of our direction. He took us under hiswing, cycling with us for 15 kms and showed us a way to avoid anothersteep hill. He eventually left us before our long steep descent intoBeauzac. Jaques was charming, good company and gave us muchneeded encouragement. By the time we had parted, we hadexchanged names, taken a photo but sadly could not exchange emailaddresses.

We make our night’s destination and found the tourist info with about10 minutes to spare. This is cutting it too fine and we resolve to bookthe night’s accommodation before lunch time in future. Happily TouristInfo sort us out with chambre d’hôte and somewhere for supper but itgives us a nasty moment.

Supper is a gourmet experience as far removed from last night as couldbe imagined. Each dish is a culinary confection to delight the eye,served with hushed reverence and announced just in case we hadforgotten what we had ordered. Nonetheless it is delicious. Tomorrowwe head for Feurs and rendezvous with my cousin Cliff

Day 8 Tuesday, 20 SeptemberAurec sur Loire Feurs 72kms

Today looks as though it could be better. We saddle up and set off.Happily the Little Book tells us that this section will see the last of theLSAs and we look forward to this. We have a steep climb to Chambles,from which there are amazing views of the Loire gorge but once downfrom this village the whole nature of the countryside changes; it’s flatter,softer more cultivated and, joy of joys, it’s warmer. It is much more theFrance we know and love. Villages appear every 5-8 kms; verydifferent from the Massif. Despite the fact it is 10 deg warmer, we stillhave a very strong headwind which makes riding difficult. We feel wecould add 5 kph were it not for the wind. We ride into Feurs in goodtime and find our Logis. At 6.00 pm we make our rendezvous with mycousin Cliff. It all seems a little bizarre to be meeting in the middle ofFrance, having met only once before in the last 34 years. However wehave a happy evening and swap news and stories.

Lunch stop by the river

Day 9 Wednesday, 21 SeptemberFeurs Charlieu 80 kms

It’s a cold start. I visit Carrefour in search of cycling specs and Damianneeds a scarf for his shoulders. I feel quite bold setting off on my ownand negotiating french traffic fully ‘panniered up’. In fact, almostunfailingly French drivers give us a much wider berth than English andwe find that when a car does cut us fine it turns out to be an Englishcar. There doesn’t appear to be the frenetic rush which socharacterises the driving in England. It makes for a much morepleasant experience.

Again, we notice the real change of landscape. We’re into fields withcows grazing, no scrubby hillsides now. The Little Book has told usthat the LSAs are over and that seems to be so as we bowl along.However the route takes us away from the river up a steep hill to StJodard - who has heard of St Jodard? There is a religious communityhere - monastery/convent, who knows but we get a clue as a slightlyancient car comes noisily down the hill with two nuns. This is followed,as we struggle uphill, by the sight of a young nun, in full regalia, joggingdownhill. There is no reason why a nun should not want to keep fit butshe made a strange spectacle in habit, wimple and sandals with rosaryand pectoral cross flapping wildly as a result of her efforts.

We arrive at Château de la Roche for our lunch stop. It is a fairy-talecastle built on a rock in the middle of the river. We can see that thewater level is about 40 feet down and parts of the river are a livid,luminous green. It looks uninviting and unhealthy, far removed fromthe clear stream tumbling over rocks as it came down from St Eulalieon Day 3.

After lunch we saddle up but the sun has got to Damian and we stop alittle longer in the shade. When we do get going, the comfortablewords of the Little Book turn out to be ‘faux amis’ and there are yetmore LSAs to be conquered, which all seems rather unfair. As there isno option, we press on and get to the Logis above the barrage atVillerest. Here we completely revise our accommodation plan anddecide to make a run for Charlieu, north of Roanne. This is not ideal, itbeing nearly 5.00 pm and 40 kms to do but the heat has gone out of thesun and if we don’t get on we’ll only have achieved 25 miles today - notreally enough to keep us on target.

We establish there is a room at the Logis at Charlieu and set off. Dueto time pressure, we go straight through Roanne which seemsdisappointing. We leave Roanne through an area which reminds usboth of York Road, Baltimore so perhaps we haven’t missed too muchafter all (apologies to Baltimoreans who read this!). The route is nearlyflat and we fall into our next hotel at 7.05 pm with great relief and soretail ends!

We have an excellent supper and rate the crême brulée sublime.

Château de la Roche

Giant sundial at Villerest

Day 10 Thursday, 22 SeptemberCharlieu Digoin 60kms

We have an excellent and plentiful breakfast, apart from appalling tea.All other aspects of the hotel are excellent. We make a slight detour tovisit the town which has many beautiful old buildings serving variousreligious orders. Before we leave the sun is shining strongly. Verysoon we are into beautiful countryside travelling, much of the time,alongside, not only the Loire but also the Roanne to Digoin Canal. It isall very pretty and we realise we have left the grey/black volcanic rockused for building the villages of the Ardèche and Auvergne. Now weare into a warm honey-coloured stone reminiscent of the Dordogne.Even on cold, wet days this stone cannot look too forbidding. We getalong famously, stopping at the various villages the Little Book pointsout. I am struck by the gardens in France. The herbaceous border issomething of a closed book to the French: in France the potager,kitchen garden is ‘king’ and the rest just muddles along. The Frenchpotager is a well ordered area of vegetables laid out in neat, wellweeded rows. Flowers are generally restricted to dahlias which are forcutting. Even at this tail end of the year it looks got together. The restof the garden, if there is any, is an unconnected assortment of bushesdotted about over the lawn. In addition, of course, there are hangingbaskets and window boxes in which the French are in a league of theirown.

While bowling along merrily we pull up on the canal tow path for abreak and are invited by an English couple to share a cup of tea. Theyhave hired a canal boat and we swap stories. They are suitablyimpressed by our adventure.

We leave them and high tail it for Digoin, where we hope to have an‘admin’ afternoon, to visit the launderette among other things.

The Logis, into which we are booked, is comfortable; the room has adelightful balcony and classy bathroom with corner bath and twohandbasins - light years away from our room at La Champ Rafaël! Themeal is pretentious!

Day 11 Friday, 23 SeptemberDigoin Décize 80kms

As we expected, breakfast was a disappointment; a masterpiece ofportion control rather than buffet and appalling tea. After buyingprovisions we set off. It‘s another cracking day and we are grateful.This adventure would have been difficult and unenjoyable if it hadrained. As it is, to date, the photos look great and we feel lucky to beable to be doing it.

We arrive at Abbaye de Sept Fonts: another large religious foundation.I decide to buy a postcard but this simple purchase causes the 80 yearold Cistercian monk an apparently superhuman struggle with theearthly minutiae of a computerised till. It all seems rather trivial forsomeone whose mind and time is generally spent grappling with muchhigher matters.

We carry on managing a respectable 15 mph. The Little Book warnsus that the landscape will change and become industrial. This isindeed the case and we are surprised that there are not planningrestrictions on building heavy industry plant on the banks of the Loire.Would anyone dream of manufacturing concrete pipes on the banks ofthe Thames? We’re out of this and soon enough back to herds ofCharolais cattle grazing and on to Décize

Pont Canal atDigoin

Day 12 Saturday, 24 SeptemberDécize La Charité sur Loire 70kms

We have a good buffet style breakfast and are on the road by 8.30 am,a personal best so far. It’s a great time and I realise what we misswhen we leave at 9.30 am. There is an ethereal mist lingering over thecanal and the river, probably a result of it still being extremely cool. Itreminds me of the photos publishers choose for October andNovember in calendars. Unfortunately, once out of Décize, we missour turning but only add a few miles so it is not a big problem. Wemake good time and are riding into Nevers at 11.00 am. Again there issomething very exciting about turning up in the centre of a big city onbicycles. We lock up and set off to see the sights of Nevers in the timewe have allowed. This means the Cathedral, Ducal Palace and walkingthe Blue Line on the pavement. This is a great idea we firstencountered in Boston but surprisingly, the Nevers version does notseem to be quite so well got together or perhaps it is us who are not sowell got together!

We leave Nevers at about 3.00pm en route for La Charité - it’sextremely hot and once out of town we have to pull into the shade of achurch for a rest. We arrive in La Charité at 5.30pm.

It seems to us that La Charité is the Hay on Wye of France and likeother small towns we have visited, ‘hors saison’. There is precious littlechoice in where to eat.

Pont Canal atBriare

Day 13 Sunday, 25 SeptemberLa Charité sure Loire Léré 50kms

We encounter our first set- back today but we have been lucky with theweather so far. We have a ‘portion control’ breakfast and eventuallyset off, after a tour of the ramparts, at 11.25 am. It’s sunny and all feelsright with the world. Our first stop is to be Sancerre in the middle of theSancerre wine region. The Little Book warns us of the steep climb tothe hill top town and this is so. It quite reminds us of the Mézilhac,Usclades and other climbs. All around are vines beautifully tended.The grape harvest has begun but not finished. We make it to thepanorama at the top and have our lunch and as we are finishing therain begins. For the first time in our adventure, we break out thewaterproofs. Suddenly there is a murky mist all around and it would bea complete waste to try to take any pictures of the town. To kill time, inthe hope of an improvement, we head for the restaurant in the towncentre. It being Sunday lunch, mine host is in no hurry to serve tworather wet tourists cups of coffee; we write some post cards and drinkmore coffee but eventually have to brave the weather. There areplaces to see in Sancerre, we visit the church of Notre Dame but givethe tower a miss - a pity since the view would, no doubt, be stupendous- on a good day.

As we head down the steep hill out of Sancerre I think of the manyother more pleasurable ways I might be spending my Sundayafternoon. However, if I think rationally, we are fully watertight, we’retogether and we have a room booked 8 miles down the road at Léré -things could be worse!

Léré is a small town, it’s Sunday afternoon and the Lion d’Or does notopen till 6.00pm. When we arrive we’re wet and have 20 minutes towait before M le Patron arrives to open up. I am surprised at howundespondent I am but this is to change when we are shown our room.The room is typically french, dark flock wall paper, tiny window, abathroom of Stygian gloom and cold. The situation is only slightlyredeemed by plenty of steaming hot water - the first prerequisite of thewet cyclist - and working space heaters. To add to our cup of joy,mademoiselle tells us that there will be no-one to serve breakfast thenext day but she will bring up a tray to our room with breakfast beforeshe leaves that evening. We’re not happy but there is not much we cando.

We are looking forward to dinner - a hearty cassoulet would go downwell but this is not to be and only when we see the menu we realisewhat is in store. Patently, M le Patron is trying to major in the diningroom department. It is charmingly and expensively tricked out with amenu to match and one instinctively knows the emphasis will be on the‘less is more’ principle. This is not what we want and we decide to usethe restaurant in the square

On our return to our room, most of the wet clothes are dry and we canonly pray for a better day tomorrow.

La Charité sur Loire

Day 14 Monday 26 SeptemberLéré Jargeau 95kms

We are more than happy to shake the Léré dust off our heels. As weexpected, the coffee, kept in a flask overnight, was cool - altogether abad experience. As I packed my panniers the thought crossed mymind that they seemed remarkably empty. I then realised that I waswearing all the clothes I could lay my hands on. We had hoped for abetter day, after all it couldn’t be worse; it was - cold and misty - theseason of mists and mellow fruitfulness had arrived in one hit and theproximity of the river only added to the effect. The views are non-existent. We notice that the moisture condenses on our eyelashes andDamian’s rear view mirror before dropping off rather dispiritingly. Nowwe do feel despondent. Happily by about 10.30 am the sun starts toburn through and whole aspect of the day is lifted.

We spend nearly an hour at the canal basin at Mantelot near Chatillonsur Loire and watch a pleasure boat pass through the lock. It providesa clear lesson in the principles of locks and dispels the notion that lockkeepers are pipe smoking, crusty old salts. A young girl is in charge ofopening the gates and once she had finished working this one at theMantelot Ecluse, she climbed on her bike and pedalled off, at topspeed, down the tow path to overtake the boat and repeat the processat the next one.

By now the sun is well up and we are heading into Briare, where canalsand rivers meet and mingle. It’s a pretty town and we linger over ourlunch in front of the church but not too long there are still a good fewmiles to do and we must press on.

The landscape has changed, in particular, the roofs. Gone, severaldays ago in fact, are the flat pantiled roofs so indicative of hot sunnyclimes, now the accent is on slate with a good pitch to throw off thewater. The last part of today’s ride is along the levée beside the river.Until the recent hurricane in Louisiana, I had not heard of thisexpression but it admirably describes the raised road which gives sucha brilliant view up over the river. We eventually fall into our Logis atJargeau run by Sulky Susan with the sloppy slippers.

Day 15 Tuesday, 27 SeptemberJargeau Thoury (Back of Beyond!) 70kms

The day starts off moderately well with a surprising reasonablebreakfast - good tea! We set off along the levée in the direction ofOrléans - it is a brilliant cycle way, although the surface is a bit lumpyand the hands are taking a pounding but there is no vehicular traffic.This area is the market garden of France with serried ranks of manylettuce types growing in the flood plain of the Loire. We also see a lotof corn on the cob but this is not for the table, the French feed it to theirlivestock. The cycle way continues into Orléans and we find ourselvesat the cathedral, another massive edifice currently being cleaned -there is no other word - it looks stunning. Orléans is a cycle friendlycity, traffic does not cut us up and there is much more respect frommotorists towards cyclists. Before we leave Orléans we book a room ata chambre d’hôte in a village in the middle of the Forest of Chambord.

The Little Book which, until now has been excellent and easy to follow,now looses the plot - or maybe it is us! To leave Orléans, it suggestsusing the GR3 which hugs the river but is very rough going andconsequently very slow. We are in danger of not getting to ourdestination before dusk. However, it is something of a Hobson’s choicesince the other option is the Route Nationale - horrid and fast; weeventually abandon the GR3 and opt for the main road and make betterspeed although it is not a very comfortable experience.

It is getting late and by 6.00 pm we still have to get through the Forestof Chambord, which is dark and unfriendly, and the road is straight as adie as far as the eye can see in front of us. We eventually find ourchambre d’hôte which is situated some miles beyond the village, trulyout in the sticks. It is full of rustic charm and not much else. There isno opportunity to go back into the village for food so Monsieur rustlesup some puy lentils and tinned sausages. This is not what I havecome to France for but it is hot.

I am sorry that we had to miss several worthwhile places, Beaugency,Meung sur Loire and Sully sur Loire in order to get to Thoury at areasonable hour and this is a shame. We must learn not to book so farahead and I must learn not to become impatient as the day drawstowards dusk - this is definitely my ‘bad’ time. On the plus side itdoesn’t rain

Day 16 Wednesday, 28 SeptemberThoury Blois 30kms

Once again we are happy to shake the dust off our heels chez MmeTouchet. It is basic, unwelcoming, in the sticks and expensive.Damian even considers the possibility that buying the house in LaChataigneraie last year might have been a mistake because of thedistance from it to any bar etc particularly ‘hors saison’.

We have only a few miles to Chambord and arrive as the sun starts tobreak through. Once again we are thankful for the weather which hasmade our expedition such a success to date in spite of the fact thatautumn is well and truly in the air - fallen leaves, hips and heavy dew inthe morning. Château de Chambord is a wonderful Renaissanceconfection of towers and chimneys - 365 in all, we are told. It issituated close to the Cosson, a minor tributary of the Loire, and whenFrancis I built it he wanted to divert the Loire. However, this was a steptoo far and he compromised by slightly diverting the Cosson. Wespend several hours there and learn a lot with the aid of the Englishaudio guide.

We leave in good time to cycle the 9 miles to Blois. This is the shortestday’s riding of our trip so far but now that we are in the most interestingsection of the Loire, we may spend more time at each major city.

Both Damian and I enjoy being in a city overnight and agree not tobook into chambres d’hôte if they are in villages/small towns again -this is important for us not having a car. As we lock our bikes away thisafternoon we meet two couples who have come from Canada withbikes and cycled from Nantes to Blois - this seems particularlyimpressive as they are going on to Barcelona, though not with bikes.They are about our age and we tentatively suggest meeting tomorrowmorning at breakfast to share experiences.

We find a good restaurant and have a wonderful confit de canard forsupper. There is much to see in Blois and we decide to spend anothernight here - it’s just great to be in a busy city again!

Day 17 Thursday, 29 SeptemberRest Day at Blois

This is good news, we haven’t had a rest day for nearly two weeksalthough we have not particularly wanted one. After a dodgy start, thesun shines again and the Château of Blois is shown to its bestadvantage. Bad or even indifferent weather would have completelychanged how we looked back on our Great Adventure. We spend themorning in the château trying to digest a million facts of French history -some of it is sticking from the previous day’s visit to Chambord. Wecome up for air, briefly, at lunch time and go back in for the afternoon.By 3.30pm we are “châteaued out” and just go walkabout - equallyenjoyable as Blois is a big city and there is lots of people-watching todo.

In the evening we meet the Canadian couple, Bev and Bill Stewart,firstly for drinks in our room, then they join us while we have supper.We spend a most happy evening comparing notes. We learn that theyhave negotiated the Paris Métro with fully assembled bikes. Thisseems wildly ambitious to me and makes our arrangements seemcomparatively modest. In addition, they are travelling with anothercouple and I feel this raises their adventure to an altogether higherplane. Tomorrow they are going on to Barcelona by train.

Château atBlois

Day 18 Friday, 30 SeptemberBlois Amboise 60kms

After swapping email addresses with the Canadians, we get on theroad. It’s not too far to Amboise but this is part of the problem, if onecan call it that - there is just so much to see in this part of the LoireValley. Each village has some ancient antiquity and we feel we mustdo justice to them all. It is not a brilliant day but we’re in Amboise forlunch and decide to cycle out to Chenonceaux after lunch. Thisscheme contradicts all our self imposed rules for sight seeing, namelythat we do not do culture overload, which only results in muddling themall up and not full appreciating each individually. However,Chenonceaux was one of my ‘must sees’ so there is nothing for it but toembark on our third château in as many days. It is beautiful andbreathtaking and built on the Cher. Having arrived in the afternoon, it isvery busy even in late September; one can only imagine how it mightbe in peak season.

We use the cycle way back to Amboise which takes a quiet and prettyroad, though it seems to take longer. The French are making a positiveeffort in their approach to green transport; one is tempted to think thatthe English approach is more lip service.

Amboise is an attractive town and the château is right behind our hotelbut we don’t visit this one. The town has a good choice of restaurantsand does not seem completely dead once the shops are closed at7.00pm. We find a welcoming establishment serving moules - just whatI want tonight and we both enjoy a delicious meal.

Château atChenonceaux

Day 19 Saturday, 1 OctoberAmboise Tours 40 kms

We wake up to a slate grey morning; the roofs are shiny with water; wecan scarcely see across the river and there is the unmistakeable slushof water as cars drive along the road. Our run of good weather hasbroken and we wonder if this is it for the rest of the trip. We try to thinkof any good reason to put off the moment of donning wet weather gearbut none presents itself and we realise there’s nothing for it but to setout. I am not good on such days. We pay a brief visit to theChanteloup Pagoda, a folly and all that is left of what was once achâteau but it doesn’t seem worth the visit and we set off for Tours.

Tours is the biggest city on the Loire and it will be interesting not to sayscary getting into it. We visit the cave co-operative at Montlouis for adégustation and buy a bottle. We would love to try more but it would bestupid for me to have more that a sniff when I still have to negotiateTours. Our hotel is in Rue Gambetta, a common enough name inFrench towns but it is our fate to either never be able to find it or, oncethere, to leave it. Tours has a novel approach to traffic in thepedestrianised area, only buses and bicycles are allowed. In the restof the city car traffic is generally slower and more generous towardscyclists. There are more dedicated cycle lanes.

Bridgeover theLoire atTours

Day 20 Sunday, 2 OctoberRest Day and My Birthday in Tours

As I fell asleep last night, I reflected on my 55th birthday tomorrow. Idon’t think I have ever done anything so exciting or bold before and Iam still rather surprised at my undertaking such an expedition andloving it so much!

Breakfast is plentiful - I always seem to be hungry and I love being ableto eat for England, knowing I will be burning it off very shortly. It’s coolwith the promise of showers as we set out but there is a blue sky andeven some sun. Tours is St Martin’s town and Tim took Martin as hisconfirmation name. We are reminded that we had promised to visitwith Tim one summer holiday many years ago. As we approached thecity the car radiator had started to boil and we felt we dare not stop, soTim missed his visit.

We walk around the old quarter, tall houses, narrow streets and prettysquares. After a long lunch of moules, we think about our exit strategyfrom Tours tomorrow. My Father used to say ‘time spent inreconnaissance is seldom wasted’. We get on the bikes for a trial run andfind ourselves getting on to a road which begins to look suspiciously like amotorway slip road. It’s 5.00 pm on a Sunday afternoon and almost busy;we don’t even want to think of it at 9.00 am on a Monday morning. Wefind an alternative route through the suburbs of Tours and trust we havetested it sufficiently to get us safely out of town. We feel we havedemonstrated the wisdom of my Father’s words.

Sunset at Tours

Day 21 Monday 3 OctoberTours Saumur 85kms

We manage an early start from Tours - 8.30am - this is good! Sadly,our efforts to find the efficient exit are frustrated by the on-way system,but we get there in the end and are soon in the country

We plan to visit the château of Azay le Rideau but must leave afterlunch in order to make our night’s stop in Saumur. It is an absolutelycracking day, bright blue sky, sun, not hot but this cannot really beexpected in October. All around are the unmistakeable signs ofautumn, bright crimson leaves on Virginia creeper, conkers and fallenleaves all around.

We arrive at Azay le Rideau at 11.00 am, just enough time for a guidedvisit and have the exclusive use of a lovely young French girl to tell usabout the château. She makes it interesting and informative and spokeslowly!

With the change of month, France is now definitely on ‘hors saison’’schedule and the château closes for lunch. We have ours, picnic stylebut in full sun then saddle up for a fairly long run into Saumur. We aremaking excellent progress when we come up against another RouteBarrée sign. Not what we need, but a chap suggests we set off over afield and we will eventually rejoin the road beyond the obstruction.Happily, and despite my scepticism, this turns out to be so and we don’thave to retrace steps. The route is now alongside the Loire and wearrive in Candes St Martin, the place where St Martin died in 397! It’s adelightful town with huge church dedicated to St Martin. Unfortunately,we return to the bikes to find Damian has a puncture. We’re notaltogether surprised having suspected as much in Azay but it’sannoying and the thing I most dread. It’s soon mended and we’re onour way again. It is a great evening and the late sun on the bridge andnorth bank of the river makes a wonderful sight as we arrive in Saumur.

Unfortunately, our hotel is some distance from Saumur centre ville,surprising for a Logis de France, which, on this journey at least, havebeen central and rather traditional establishments. Saumur Logis ismore formulaic like the Campanile chain. It is 3 km out of town -impossible to get back in for supper and return late on bikes.

Day 22 Tuesday, 4 OctoberSaumur Angers 55kms

We make a wonderfully early start this morning after an averagebreakfast. By 8.30 am we’re on the road back into Saumur. Thechâteau is huge and has a commanding view overlooking the river. It isan incredible building, again set off to perfect advantage by a crystalblue sky - we are so lucky. We feel we cannot visit the inside, probablya mistake, but there is a real danger of ‘château overload’. We plan ourroute out but realise we have left a water bottle at the hotel, so all thebenefit of the early start is negated and we curse that this hotel issituated so far out. By the time we have covered the ground 3 timeswe are pretty familiar with it and feel Saumur is a pleasant town of agood size. The exit for cyclists is good. I am amazed at how ladies ofa certain age glide serenely and confidently round roundaboutsapparently oblivious to motorists who, equally, maintain a generous,unthreatening distance - would that this could be the way in UK. As weleave, we pass the School of Cavalry and there are plenty of soldiersabout.

The road between Saumur and St Hilaire St Florent is lined with severalprosperous caves and we look wistfully as we pass, dreaming of thedégustations to be had inside. Wine tasting and cycling don’t mix andanyway we couldn’t carry a bottle so put the idea away in the memorybank till we can return in a car.

It is while on this stretch of road we meet the couple on bikes with theirpampered pooch. Pooch was enthroned in a carrier on the back of herbike: think old fashioned, large chafing dish and remodel in tasteful paleblue plastic, the lid was up allowing pooch to take the air! Here youhave the last word in travel for the mutt who has everything! It made astrange sight.

The day is almost the best to date, which implies that other days havebeen bad this is not so; almost every day has been great but this iseven better, hot but not enervating and a ride through wonderful Frenchcountryside - I love it!

The road takes us alongside the Loire through a succession of prettyand patently affluent villages. They are well kept with good surfacesand flower bedecked. There is something to be seen and some photo

‘op’ in each but this slows progress and we still have some miles to goand accommodation to be booked in Angers - we try not to stop,difficult as it is.

Eventually we are into the outskirts of Angers, a huge city whosecathedral twin towers can be seen from a distance of at least 4.4 kms.I find entering big cities daunting but Damian seems to havesuccessfully adopted the French approach. I am full of admiration butyet to copy. Our hotel is well situated right in the middle of the city,good value - perfect!

Château at Saumur

Day 23 Wednesday, 5 OctoberRest day at Angers

Angers is a confusing city, busy but buzzing with life - it’s a universitycity. There is a château and we are reminded of the Canadians’ maximABC Another Bloody Château but how could one visit Angers and notvisit the château with its famous Apocalypse Tapestry? I am ashamedto admit I have not heard of this tapestry but it is on the same scale asBayeux and possibly the Overlord tapestry. There’s no doubt it needsall the superlatives to describe it.

It is not quite so bright in the morning but the afternoon is better and Isit in the central square - Place Raillement to write postcards and watchAngevin life go by. It’s a great way to spend time requiring no effort onmy part. I am also thinking that we are now within sight of ourdestination; our Great Adventure is coming to end.

The Adam and Evehouse in Angers

Day 24 Thursday, 6 OctoberAngers Champtoceaux 81 kms

St Nazaire here we come! When we finish today’s ride we will have 62miles to do. It still seems unreal as I remember the day inBournemouth when I highlighted the route on the maps, I wondered if Ireally would make it. God willing, we will.

We leave Angers at 8.30 am with a remarkably painless departureconsidering it’s the morning rush hour - even the awkward part wherewe must get off and push is accomplished with ease. I am pleased; ofthe whole journey entering/exiting large cities is the worst part. Theweather is overcast so the photo ‘ops’ are limited in fact it doesn’tbrighten up till about 3.00 pm when we make a quick detour to Ancenis.

We have our lunch beside the river at St Florent le Vieil. The river isquite broad here and fast flowing, difficult to imagine it has come fromthat little spout in the cowshed at Gerbier de Jonc. We are just about toleave St Florent when we find the Benedictine Abbey at the top of thetown. The abbey church is huge and the land and buildings aroundequally huge with a great feeling of space and wonderful panoramaover the Loire. Tucked in beside the church is a quiet courtyard with 10sand pitches for some sort of game not pétanque - Damian’ssuggestion. I can’t think what it is and anyway what would monks bedoing playing at games of chance? I shall have to ask someone athome.

We spend quite a lot of time around this community and look back on23 days of this adventure, as well as our many holidays. We marvel atthe outpouring of talent and devotion offered in the name ofChristianity. How different and boring the landscape of Europe wouldbe without that influence. Every village has its church, generally visiblefrom all approaches, the cities have soaring cathedrals visible fromeven further - think Chartres. Along roads, major and minor, arecalvaires and shrines and at street corners shrines and niches allcontributing to the fabric of the landscape.

We toil up the hill to Champtoceaux which, coincidentally, is twinnedwith Verwood. Champtoceaux is attractive and has one of the bestpanoramas of the Loire. Now we really are getting close.

Day 25 Friday, 7 OctoberChamptoceaux Savenay 76kms

The day promises to be good despite early morning mist - it’s Octoberfor heaven’s sake! This is the day we negotiate The Big One - Nantes.We have driven round the périphérique many a time on the way toholidays and that is hairy enough, cycling right through the centre andout the other side is something else. In fact, I guess Nantes is a littlesmaller than Birmingham - 2nd city of England. However, it has sortedout a good system of cycle lanes so that any reasonably alert cyclistneed not feel unduly threatened. The first part is along the north bankof the Loire and this is pleasant, especially as the sun is coming out.Soon we are following the green cycle lanes into the very centre of theNantes. Interestingly, trams, phased out in the 60s, have been given amakeover and are reappearing in several French cities, proving the oldsaying what comes round goes round. Like all big cities it takes agesto get through and when we are through we heave a sigh of relief.However, I salute Nantes for getting its green transport plan together.

Our route takes us through the Marais Audobon, a marshy area inwhich I see an otter - a first!

We reach Savenay and know that it is only 17 miles to St Nazairetomorrow. Savenay is disappointing, the room is depressing and thereare several very old fashioned smells lingering. All has a general air ofgrubbiness even the Post Office looks modern grubby; so different fromthe PO at Angers - a wonderful example of fin de siècle architecture.

We take the opportunity to look at train times for our return toCherbourg and realise that it is not going to be as easy as we hadthought. However, the clerk clearly wants to help us in our quest, anovel concept to us who have grown up with British Rail, for whom thecustomer is mostly an inconvenience. We think we are onto somethingwhich will allow us to catch the 8.00 pm boat from Cherbourg but it willinvolve 3 changes and some fast leg work in Cherbourg but it’s thebest. We may find something more convenient at St Nazaireparticularly if SNCF has more than one helpful booking clerk.

We go to bed extremely excited at the thought of reaching the Atlantictomorrow

Day 26 Saturday, 8 OctoberSavenay St Nazaire 30 kms

Today’s the day!!

We are more than happy to leave Savenay, which is smelly/dirty, andget on the road for the last 30 kms. It’s another GREAT morning,sunny high blue sky, wisps of cloud, perfect for The Photo at StNazaire. We are quickly there, stopping only to take a picture of thenew Pont St Nazaire which seems to soar into the sky.

We arrive at the American Monument and ask an assortment ofpassers-by to take our photo telling each of our achievement. I put myfeet into the sea; it is a great feeling, we have cycled nearly 900 milessince leaving Bournemouth, which it seems months ago. On severaloccasions I doubted whether we would succeed but once we were outof the Massif I felt that we could do it, although there were stillopportunities for things to go wrong.

We’re elated but mindful that we must get up to Cherbourg; theadventure is not over yet. St Nazaire station is again helpful and wesort out a journey over two days and five trains! The problem is findingtrains to take bikes. We settle on getting to Rennes this evening withthe rest of the journey tomorrow, arriving in Cherbourg with only anhour to get to the ferry terminal.

Having sorted the admin, we buy some lunch, including a bottle ofchampagne and plastic wine glasses and head back to the seafront tocelebrate our achievement. We are thankful for blue skies. What ashame if we’d had to huddle in a bus shelter. Several people pass bywishing us ‘bon appetit’ and we cannot resist telling them what we havedone.

After lunch we visit the submarine pens briefly and head for the station.By the time we complete this journey we will be fully proficient in vélotravel on French rail. The first stage is easy; we walk our bikes ontothe train and hang them from designated hooks on the side wall of thecarriage. There is space for 4 bikes; by this method they take upminimum room and do not move about. We take a picture to send toNetwork Rail. The next two trains are not so bike friendly, they areolder generation and the bikes have to be manhandled up three steps.

We reverse one into the loo and pack it out with panniers and leave theother in the corridor. This is not perfect but there is no option. AtRedon a young man in the carriage offers to help us extricate the bikes,just another example of unlooked-for kindness we have experienced.We’re into Rennes on time and into our hotel, close to the station.

After a record quick change we’re out to a great supper in a buzzingcity.

American Monument at St NazaireWe’ve made it from source to sea!

Day 27 Sunday, 9 OctoberRennes Cherbourg Poole Bournemouth

Today we really put SNCF to the test. Do we have the power ofpersuasion to sweet talk M le Contrôleur into allowing two vélos ontohis non vélo train - we shall see but it’s another lovely day.

The first train has bike hooks and we settle down for the two and a halfhour journey to Lison, which is obviously just a point in the Frenchbocage where two railway lines happen to cross. Nobody seems tohave heard of Lison and it doesn’t have any facilities. Very quickly weare in conversation with a young English lad who had hoped to find hisfortune by means of his guitar, flute and clarinet somewhere in France.He had not been successful and freely admitted he was going homesomewhat with his tail between his legs. He also was on his bike andhad a full Michelin atlas which he offered us. Since Lison is the back ofbeyond and we have two and a half hours to wait there, we use theatlas and time to plan the route from Lison to Carentan which, we knowfrom past ‘booze cruises’, has hotels. At least by cycling from Lison toCarentan, about 12 miles, we expand our options, namely: if M leContrôleur decides it’s more than his job’s worth to allow two bikes onhis train we will be in a town with accommodation and will have toaccept that we don’t get to Cherbourg till Monday. It will be annoyingbut we feel we have covered the eventualities as best we can.

Happily, we get bikes and panniers onto the train. M le Contrôleur seesus and nods benignly and we know we’ve done it and without having tocross his palm with silver!

We are soon in Cherbourg and have only to get to the ferry terminal.Time is short and roads busy but we make it onto the lower deck withthe lorries and within a few minutes the bow door is being raised.

This could be the end of our Great Adventure but we have actually toget back from Poole to Bournemouth along the prom at 11.30 pm.

We get home at 12.15 am after One Great Adventure!

Celebratory champagne on St Nazaire sea front