Definition, Anatomy of Shirt & Jacket collar, Types of Collar.

Collar

Definition of Collar

Definition:

The collar is an element that is attached (permanently or removable) to the neckline of a garment and that can be functional, purely ornamental, or a combination of the two. A collar can enhance the appearance of a garment by adding a point of focus or interest.

Anatomy of a Shirt Collar:

Anatomy of a Jacket Collar

Anatomy of a Jacket Collar

Neck line: Line where the collar is joined to the neck.

Style line: This is the shape of the outer edge of collar or rever.

Roll line/ Bread line: The line where the collar rolls over.

Stand: Rise of the collar from neckline to roll line. Fall: Depth of the collar from roll line to style line.

It falls over the stand.

Anatomy of a Jacket Collar

Gorge line: Front neck line. Lapel / Rever: Folded up part of the collar falling

on the chest. Break Point: A term used to indicate the point

where the rever, which is built in with the bodice, may start to fold back into lapel or where the rever turns back.

Types of Collars

Collar can be classified by the following ways: According to Construction:

A. Set in / Applied Collar:

(i) Flat Collar: This name is given to any collar which appears to lie flat around the base of the neck with no visible appearance of any roll. This collar is attached to the neckline to lay flat against the garment rising slightly about the neck edge, e.g. Peter Pan collar, Eton collar, Sailor collar etc.

Set in / Applied Collar

(ii) Standing Collar: Derived from Chinese costume garments, the standing collar is the oldest known collar design. This collar extends above the neck seam line of the garment. The basic pattern is a rectangle e.g. Mandarin collar, Standing Ruffle collar, Ribbon collar, etc.

Standing Collar

Stand

Set in / Applied Collar

(iii) Rolled Collar: The rolled collar starts at the neckline, stands up, and then falls back onto the shoulder line. The collar height should be at least 3/16 inch larger than the stand so that when the collar is down, the seam line between the bodice and stand will be hidden e.g. Italian collar, Convertible collar, Shirt collar etc.

B. Grown on Collar:

This collar developed from the front bodice and fold

back to reveal the facing. It eliminates the need for the

seam between the collar and the lapel, e.g. Rever

front, Oblong collar, Shawl collar etc.

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