Degustazione storica Ca˜è e metodi di estrazione dal 1900 ... · L’Espresso Italiano si...

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DegustazioneS toricaVivere la s toria del l ’espressoin prima persona

Sedicesimo Milani - 3.indd 1 03/10/2017 11:15:43

Degustazione storica

Ca�è e metodi di estrazione dal 1900 a oggi

Historical tasting Coffee and the extraction methods from the ‘900 to the present day.

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INTRODUZIONE

Quante possibilità avete avuto nella vostra vita di sorseggiare un caffè come quello dei vostri bisavo-li? Forse nessuna, perché i metodi di preparazione si sono modificati a tal punto che l’Espresso Italiano, pur avendone ereditato il codice genetico, ha un aspetto estremamente diverso da quello che si beveva all’ini-zio del secolo scorso. Per comprendere come si è giunti alla tazzina ornata di una crema color nocciola con riflessi fulvi, un corpo importante e avvolgente, un aroma intenso che copre l’intero arco olfattivo, Caffè Milani ha estratto dalla propria esposizione macchine di tre epoche diverse, rappresentative di tre cambiamenti basilari, le ha ri-messe in funzione e ha studiato le miscele che con buona probabilità venivano usate.Poi, utilizzando un gruppo di assaggiatori dell’Istituto Internazionale Assaggiatori Caffè e i metodi statistici del Centro Studi Assaggiatori le ha profilate.Oggi è quindi in grado di offrire al consumatore at-tento, al barista e allo studioso un percorso esperien-ziale unico nel suo genere, partendo dal 1920 per giungere all’Espresso Italiano attuale.

CAFFÈ MILANICaffè Milani nasce nel 1937 ed è oggi una delle torre-fazioni leader. Nel 1998 è socio fondatore dell’Istituto Nazionale Espresso Italiano e nel 2017, in occasione dei suoi 80 anni, inaugura un’esposizione sul caffè e la sua storia di raro interesse [email protected] IACL’Istituto Internazionale Assaggiatori Caffè (Iiac) è stato fondato nel 1993, vanta oggi oltre 10.500 allievi residenti in 40 paesi del mondo e i suoi manuali sono stati pubblicati in 11 [email protected] e testi di Luigi Odello, grafica di Laura Mor, realizzazione del Centro Studi Assaggiatori.I Edizione: ottobre 2017.


INTRODUCTION

How many opportunities have you had in your life to sip a cup of coffee like the one your great-grandparents did? Perhaps none, because preparation methods have changed to such an extent that Italian Espresso, while having inheri-ted the genetic code, has an extremely different appearance from the one people were drinking at the beginning of the last century.

To fully understand how we have reached the point of ha-ving a coffee cup ornated with a hazel-colored cream with a reflection of reddish brown color, a solid body, an intense aroma that covers the entire olfactory spectrum, Caffè Milani selected from it’s own exhibition three machines from diffe-rent periods, representing three basic changes, restored and got them to work again, and studied the blends that were most likely used.

Soon after, using a group of tasters at the International Coffee Tasting Institute and by using the statistical methods of the Tasting Research Center, it has maneged to profile all the blends..

Therefore today Caffè Milani is able to offer its consumer, bartender or scholar a unique experiential journey, starting from the 1900s to the current Italian Espresso.

CAFFÈ MILANICaffè Milani was founded in 1937 and today it is one of the leading roasting factories in Italy. In 1998 it was one of the founding partners of the Italian Espresso National Institute and in 2017, for the occasion of its 80th anniversary, it is ce-lebrating the opening of a new exhibition about the world of coffee and also about its own private history of rare cultural interest. [email protected]

IIACThe International Coffee Tasting Institute (Iiac) was founded in 1993, boasts today over 10,500 students originally from 40 different countries around the world and its manuals have been published in 11 [email protected]

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TRE SECOLI ALLA RICERCADI UN CAFFÈ

RAPIDO, POTENTE E PIACEVOLE

Al tramonto del XIX secolo il caffè c’era ed era entrato nelle abitudini degli occidentali almeno da tre secoli. Durante questo lasso temporale si erano sviluppati molti sistemi per farlo. In pratica, per almeno tre se-coli, il mondo del caffè lavorò sodo per soddisfare tre necessità tra loro fortemente connesse: rapidità, for-za, piacere. Obiettivo che raggiunse solo nel secolo scorso con la nascita dell’espresso.

LA RAPIDITÀFar bollire la polvere di caffè almeno tre volte o aspet-tare pazientemente che la forza di gravità consentisse all’acqua calda di attraversare uno strato di caffè ren-dendo la bevanda priva di fondi? Era questo dilemma che divise per tutto il XIX secolo gli amanti del caffè. L’italico ingegno fornì la soluzione: l’applicazione del-la pressione all’acqua bollente, dapprima attraverso il vapore, poi con l’aria compressa, quindi con una molla e infine con una pompa.Il risultato? Venticinque millilitri di caffè soave e sci-ropposo in 25 secondi.

LA FORZA La forza era - ed è - valutata attraverso l’intensità dell’aroma e la consistenza tattile (il corpo, o scirop-posità che dir si voglia). L’evoluzione della tecnica espresso portò a ottenere una forza mai raggiunta prima riducendo la dose di caffè necessaria alla metà o anche a meno.

L’EDONISMO Piccoli sorsi carezzevoli che recano per lungo tempo l’aroma contenuto in un caffè: pareva una meta irraggiungibile, ma l’espresso lo rese possibile, non solo attraverso l’evoluzione meccanica dei sistemi di preparazione, ma anche all’arte di comporre miscele scegliendo il meglio di quanto offrivano i tropici di tutto il mondo.


THREE CENTURIES OF RESEARCHFOR A QUICK, STRONG AND

PLEASANT COFFEE

At the end of the 19th century coffee had become a part of the daily activity in the western world for at least three centuries. During this timeframe, many systems and methods had been developed in order to prepare it. In fact, for at least 300 years, the world of coffee worked hard to fulfill the three basic needs which are strongly linked together: quickness, strength, and pleasure. A goal that was only reached in the last century with the birth of the Espresso.

QUICKNESSBoil the coffee powder at least three times or wait patiently for the gravity force to allow the hot water to seep through a layer of coffee making the drink free of grinds. This was the challange which divided coffee lovers all through the ninete-enth century. The italic genius provided the solution: applying pressure to hot water, first through steam, then with com-pressed air, first using a spring and finally with a pump.

The result? Twenty-five milliliters of pleasant and syrupy cof-fee in only 25 seconds.

STRENGTHStrength was – and still is - measured by the intensity of the aroma and tactile consistency (the body, or syrupy texture, whatever you wish to call it). The evolution of the espresso technique led to achieving an unprecedented strength, redu-cing the required coffee dose to half or even less.

HEDONISMSmall and cuddling sips that carry the aroma within the coffee for a long period of time. It seemed to be an unreachable goal, but the Espresso made it possible, not only through the mechanical evolution of the preparation systems but also through the art of creating blends by choosing the best of what the tropics all over the world had to offer.

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THE VARIATION OF TASTELE TAPPE SIGNIFICATIVE,

LA VARIAZIONE DEL GUSTO

TRANSITION PROTO–ESPRESSO ITALIAN ESPRESSO

Colour intensity

Olfactiveintensity

9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

0Acidity Roasted Biochemical Vegetable Astringency

Texture Body Bitterness Spicy Flowers/freshfruit

Driedfruits

QuickStrong Pleasant

1850 1875 1900 1925 1950 1975 2000


9

8

7

6

5

4

3

LE TAPPE SIGNIFICATIVE, LA VARIAZIONE DEL GUSTO

TRANSITION PROTO–ESPRESSO ITALIAN ESPRESSO

Colour intensity

Olfactiveintensity

9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

0Acidity Roasted Biochemical Vegetable Astringency

Texture Body Bitterness Spicy Flowers/freshfruit

Driedfruits

QuickStrong Pleasant

1850 1875 1900 1925 1950 1975 2000


9

8

7

6

5

4

3

4

5

L’EVOLUZIONE DELLA TOSTATURA

Biochimico

La scoperta da parte dell’umanità che il fuoco non ha solamente effetto sulle caratteristiche igieniche degli alimenti, ma anche su quelle sensoriali aumentando il piacere, coinvolse ben presto anche il consumo del caffè che passò dalla bollitura delle drupe all’infusio-ne dei semi sapientemente tostati. Fino alla fine del XIX secolo la tostatura avveniva però a conduzione, vale a dire fornendo il calore attraverso un materiale come il ferro. L’obiettivo veniva raggiunto, ma non di rado l’aroma era alterato da sentori empireumatici e il gusto pregiudicato da poco piacevoli contrasti tra amaro e acido. L’utilizzo di sfere di acciaio che ruota-vano su una fonte di calore, il più delle volte fornito da legna, migliorava il risultato della tostatura per la maggiore omogeneità raggiunta, ma il vero salto di qualità si fece dopo la seconda guerra mondiale con l’introduzione delle tostatrici riscaldate a gas nelle quali il trasporto del calore era affidato ad aria calda. L’Espresso Italiano si sviluppa dunque su macchine a tamburo di questo tipo che funzionano a “cotte” con cicli variabili tra 17 e 27 minuti. Oggi dotate di softwa-re sofisticati che rendono il processo più sicuro, sono però sempre governate dall’uomo che, attraverso un’impostazione sapiente, ottiene da caffè crudo che giunge da ogni parte del mondo, le componenti ide-ali per comporre miscele ricche, profonde e potenti.


THE EVOLUTION OF THE ROASTING PROCESS

Humanity discovered that fire does not only affect the hy-gienic characteristics of food, but also the sensory aspects by increasing the pleasure, soon enough this discovery would affect also the coffee consumption methods that had evol-ved from boiling drupes in water to the infusion of the well roasted grains. Until the end of the 19th century, the roasting process was made by conduction method, for example, by supplying heat through materials like iron etc. The goal was achieved, but frequently the aroma was altered by empyreu-matic odors and the taste was damaged by the unpleasant contrasts between bitter and acid. The use of steel spheres that rotate on a heat source, most often made of wood, improved the result of roasting for a greater homogeneity, but the true leap of quality took place after World War II, with the introduction of gas heated roasting machine in whi-ch heat transfer was entrusted to hot air. The development of Italian Espresso was synchronized with the evolution of the drum roasting machines the type that work on “batchs” with varying cycles of 17 to 27 minutes. Today, equipped with sophisticated software that makes the process safer, but still always supervised by an employee, who through a well-stu-died setting, is able to obtain from raw coffee beans which arrive from all over the world, the ideal components for com-posing rich, profound and intense blends.

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SETTANT’ANNI DI ESPRESSO ITALIANO

BUON GUSTOConquistatori prima, conquistati poi, l’I-talia è da milleni il crogiolo della estetica del gusto

INGEGNONon solo elementi meccanici, ma sele-zione e unione sapiente di ca�è di tutto il mondo per dare piacere a basso costo

POVERTÀRisparmiare acqua calda e ca�è (da 13/15 g a 5/7 g) senza ridurre il piacere


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LA MISCELA: L’ARTE ITALIANA DI COMBINARE MATRIMONI D’AMORE

L’arte della miscela si sviluppa in Italia ed è alla base dell’Espresso Italiano. La miscela sopravanza infatti cronologicamente le macchine per la preparazione del caffè espresso: già nel 1845 celebri trattati descri-vevano le migliori qualità di caffè per ottenere una miscela eccellente e come trattarle in tostatura per ricavare dalle singole origini più componenti. La miscela dunque non nasce solamente per dare al consumatore un caffè dal profilo sensoriale costante o per migliorare la tenuta del panello di caffè sotto la pressione delle macchine, bensì per aumentare in modo mirabile il profilo aromatico del caffè in tazza, mettendo quindi in risalto ciò che specie, varietà e origini hanno da offrire per incrementare il piacere.

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THE BLEND:THE ITALIAN ART OF FINDING

THE RIGHT MATCH

The art of blending was developed in Italy and has been the foundation of the Italian Espresso. In fact chronologically the blend existed even before the espresso coffee machines were invented: already in 1845 the most known treatises described the best qualities of coffee in pursuit of the perfect blend and also describe how to handle the beans while roasting in order to achieve the maximum potential from a single origin coffee.

The creation of a blend is not just in order to give the con-sumer a coffee with a constant sensorial experience or to improve the resistance of coffee under the pressure of the machine, but rather to enhance the aromatic features of a cup of coffee in a wonderful way, highlighting what every type, variety and region has to offer in increasing the pleasure.

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SETTANT’ANNI DI ESPRESSO ITALIANO

BUON GUSTOConquistatori prima, conquistati poi, l’I-talia è da milleni il crogiolo della estetica del gusto

INGEGNONon solo elementi meccanici, ma sele-zione e unione sapiente di ca�è di tutto il mondo per dare piacere a basso costo

POVERTÀRisparmiare acqua calda e ca�è (da 13/15 g a 5/7 g) senza ridurre il piacere


SEVENTY YEARS OF ITALIAN ESPRESSO

GOOD TASTEConquerors first, then conquered by others, Italy has been for millenniums the melting pot of good taste and aesthetics

TALENTNot just mechanical elements, but a wise com-bination and selection of the coffee arriving from all regions of the world to give you plea-sure and satisfaction at low cost

OPTIMIZATIONSaving hot water and coffee (from 13/15 g to 5/7 g) without sacrificing the pleasure

1900 – 1940

THE COFFEE OF THE STEAM DRIVEN MACHINE

THE IMPORTANT LANDMARKS IN THE WORLD OF COFFEE

1899 – The invention of the vacuum-sealing Method: increases the shelf life of the coffee. 1901 – Bezzera registers the first model of coffee machines adequate for coffee shops. 1906 – Benzene is the caffeine solvent in the first decaffeinated coffee. 1908 – Melitta Benz creates the first coffee filter with a simple pan with a hole in it and blotting paper. 1933 – Alfonso Bialetti creates the Moka Express.

THE STEAM MACHINE

In 1901 thanks to Luigi Bezzera, the era of vertical steam machines began, most fascinating thanks to their impressive structure. The trend of drinking coffee in the coffee shops had spread, where its prepared and served “instantly”.In the steam macchine the extraction process starts with a first passage of boiling water on the grounded coffee when the coffee maker begins to drip, you close the water tap and open the steam, which pushes the water to go through the coffee in the filter and into the cup. One minute of waiting and the drink can be served.

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1900IL CAFFÈ DELLA MACCHINA A VAPORE

BIOCHIMICIDIVERSI

TERRA

CASEOSO

PUTREFATTO

MUFFA

ANIMALE

SULFUREI

OSSIDATO

FENOLICO

FERMENTATO

BASICI

ALTRI CHIMICO

VEGETALE

TOSTATO

SPEZIATO

EMPIREUMATICO

FUMO

FRITTO

FRUTTA FRESCA

FIORI

ASTRINGENTE

AMARO

INTENSITÀ COLORE

ACIDO CORPOTESSITURA

BRUCIATO

SECCA

CEREALI

PASTICCERIA

CACAO

VANIGLIA

CARAMELLO

BALSAMICO

LESSO

SECCO

FRESCO

ESSICCATA

○ Terra bagnata○ Cantina umida○ Legno marcio

○ Buccia di salame○ Stantio○ Chiuso

○ Riato○ Tappo○ Iodato○ Farmacia○ Fenico

Salsa di soia ○Carne grigliata ○

Catrame ○

Cenere ○Carbone ○

Pepe ○Chiodi di garofano ○

Senape ○Liquirizia ○

Fichi secchi ○Prugna secca ○

Uva passa ○Datteri ○

○ ocsoB ○ omiT

Pino ○

Malto ○ Pan tostato ○

Crosta di pane ○

Brioche ○ Biscotti ○

Amaretto ○

○ ailgaPFieno ○

Fungo ○

Miele ○Agrumato ○

Floreale ○

Ananas ○ Fragola ○

Cocomero ○Albicocca ○

Cocco ○Pesca ○

Patata lessa ○Cicoria ○Zuppa ○

○ enorepeP ○ ollesiP

Erba ○

Assente ○Percepibile ○

Medio ○Elevato ○

Molto elevato ○

Leggero ○Percepibile ○


Molto elevato ○

Assente ○Leggero ○

Percepibile ○Fresco ○

Elevato ○

○ Leggero ○ Percepibile ○ Medio ○ Consistente ○ Sciropposo

○ aloiccoN ○ alrodnaM

Noce ○

○ Burro○ Formaggio○ Panna○ Latte

○ Sudore○ Cavallo sudato○ Stalla○ Pelo bagnato○ Cuoio○ Frutta marcia○ Acetoso○ Stinker○ Fetido○ Marcio○ Pesce avariato○ Carne avariata○ Acqua stagnante○ Cipolla / aglio○ Rafano○ Zolfo○ Cavolo lesso○ Uova marce○ Calcare○ Calce/gesso○ Cemento

○ Rancido○ Mela tagliata○ Acescente

○ Carburanti○ Lattice/pongo○ Plastica○ Cartone○ Solvente

○ Giallo○ Giallo ambrato○ Marrone chiaro○ Nocciola○ Tonaca di frate

○ Dune del deserto○ Grossolana○ Media○ Fine○ Finissima

© 2012 Luigi O

dello, C

entro Studi A

ssaggiatori, Istituto Internazionale Assaggiatori C

affè

www.assaggiatoricaffe.org - [email protected] www.assaggiatori.com - [email protected]

FRUTTA SECCA ED ESSICCATA

FIORI E FRUTTA FRESCA

MAPPA SENSORIALE DEL CAFFÈ

OLFATTO

VISTA

TATTO

- GUSTO

I TA

L I A N T A S T E RS20

AN

NI

Intensità coloreTessitura

Intensità olfattiva

Golbale odorinegativi

Golbale odoripositivi

Biochimicidiversi

Speziato

Tostato

Frutta secca edessiccata

Vegetale Fiori e fruttafresca

Astringenza

Corpo

Acido

Amaro


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THE COFFEE

By the middle of the 19th century, Arabica is the only variety of cultivated coffee available and Brazil gains most of the wor-ld’s production thanks to its wide availability of fertile lands.Due to a roya epidemic, a fungus that causes serious damage to coffee plant and ultimately killing it, begins the search for new varieties that can withstand this parasite in the Coffea Canephora (Robusta).In Italy, during the Second World War, the importation of go-ods is stopped and coffee is replaced with substitutes such as chicory, hibiscus tea and barley.When the conflict is over, the coffee makes a comeback and with it the pleasure of going to the coffee shop and enjoying an instant coffee.In the cup the coffee looks like a black beverage mostly free of cream at the surface due to the coarse grinding of the beans and high temperature during the preparation process.

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1900IL CAFFÈ DELLA MACCHINA A VAPORE

Salsa di soia �Carne grigliata �

Chiodi di garofano �

Prugna secca �

Crosta di pane �

Patata lessa �

Molto elevato �

Molto elevato �

© 2012 Lu

igi O

de

llo, C

en

tro Stu

di A

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gia

tori, Istitu

to In

tern

azio

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ssag

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www.assaggiatoricaffe.org - [email protected]

20 A

NN

I

Colour intensity Texture

Olfactive intensity

Overall negativeodours

Overall positiveodours

Biochemical

Spicy

Roasted

Dried fruits

Vegetable Flowers/ fresh fruit

Astringency

Body

Acidity

Bitterness


1950

THE COFFEE OF THE LEVER MACHINE


1947 – Achille Gaggia invents and patents the lever machine. 1947 – The Espresso as we know it today, was born. 1950 – In America, instant coffee is introduced into homes and sales increase. At the work place coffee break become a daily habit.

THE SPRING PISTON LEVER MACHINE

The lever machine was assembled in 1938 by Achille Gag-gia a bartender from Milan who patented the lever system by launching the “crema caffè” technology. Ten years later a large-scale production of this revolutionary bar machinery is launched. The pressure inside the machine is created by a piston driven by a spring, both connected to a lever ; lowering the lever the spring is compressed and the hot water fills the cylinder chamber underneath, coming into contact with the blend in the filter holder and paving the way for the pre-infusion.When releasing the lever, the spring pushes the piston crea-ting pressure and forcing the hot water to pass through the ground coffee, obtaining a dense, syrupy beverage with a per-sistent cream on the surface.

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1950IL CAFFÈ DELLA MACCHINA A LEVA

BIOCHIMICIDIVERSI

TERRA

CASEOSO

PUTREFATTO

MUFFA

ANIMALE

SULFUREI

OSSIDATO

FENOLICO

FERMENTATO

BASICI

ALTRI CHIMICO

VEGETALE

TOSTATO

SPEZIATO

EMPIREUMATICO

FUMO

FRITTO

FRUTTA FRESCA

FIORI

ASTRINGENTE

AMARO

INTENSITÀ COLORE


BRUCIATO

SECCA

CEREALI

PASTICCERIA

CACAO

VANIGLIA

CARAMELLO

BALSAMICO

LESSO

SECCO

FRESCO

ESSICCATA





Catrame ○






○ ocsoB ○ omiT

Pino ○


Crosta di pane ○


Amaretto ○

○ ailgaPFieno ○

Fungo ○


Floreale ○



Cocco ○Pesca ○



Erba ○



Molto elevato ○



Molto elevato ○



Elevato ○



Noce ○







© 2012 Luigi O

dello, C

entro Studi A


affè





OLFATTO

VISTA

TATTO

- GUSTO

I TA


AN

NI

Intensità colore

Tessitura




Biochimicidiversi

Speziato

Tostato



Astringenza

Corpo

Acido

Amaro


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THE COFFEE

Due to post-war aftermath and climate reasons, finding raw materials is difficult and for this reason the coffee price in-creases.African countries are focusing their work on the cultivation of Robusta as a source of self-sustainment and profit.In Italy, with the distribution of the lever machine, Espresso was born and became the symbol of “made in Italy”.From an elite product, coffee became a common and popular drink consumed by all. In 1953, men consumed an average of 1.7 cups of coffee compared to 1.3 cups of coffee for women. The quality of the bar Espresso is superior to the home-made coffee; hence the Italian expression of “good coffee like the one you drink at the bar”.

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10

1950IL CAFFÈ DELLA MACCHINA A LEVA

FU

FRI

FRUTTAFRESC

FIORI

ASTRING

AMA

ACIDO

BRUCI

SEC

CER

PASTICC

CA

VAN

CARA

BALSA

LESS

SECC

FRES

ESSIC


Catrame �

Cenere �Carbone �

Pepe �Chiodi di garofano �

Senape �Liquirizia �

Fichi secchi �Prugna secca �

Uva passa �Datteri �

� ocsoB � omiT

Pino �

Malto � Pan tostato �

Crosta di pane �

Brioche � Biscotti �

Amaretto �

� ailgaPFieno �

Fungo �

Miele �Agrumato �

Floreale �

Ananas � Fragola �

Cocomero �Albicocca �

Cocco �Pesca �

Patata lessa �Cicoria �Zuppa �

� enorepeP � ollesiP

Erba �

Assente �Percepibile �

Medio �Elevato �

Molto elevato �

Leggero �Percepibile �

Medio �Elevato �

Molto elevato �

Assente �Leggero �

Percepibile �Fresco �

Elevato �

� aloiccoN � alrodnaM

Noce �

© 2012 Lu

igi O

de

llo, C

en

tro Stu

di A

ssag

gia

tori, Istitu

to In

tern

azio

na

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ssag

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tori C

affè


20 A

NN

I



Biochemical

Spicy

Roasted


Olfactive intensity



Biochemical

Spicy

Roasted

Dried fruits


Astringency

Body

Acidity

Bitterness

1960

THE COFFEE OF THE A CONTINUOUS DELIVERY MACHINE


1961 – The E61 is the first continuous delivery coffee machine. 1963 – Bunn creates the machine for the automatic preparation of filtered coffee.1964 – Maxim is the first freeze-dried coffee. 1968 – The single directional degassing valve revolutionizes the coffee packaging in the world.

THE CONTINUOUS DELIVERY MACHINE

In 1961 Ernesto Valente designed for Faema the E61, the continuous delivery machine named after the solar eclipse of that year.This ingenious invention for the coffee world adopts a volu-metric pump (instead of the compression spring of the lever machine) that allows you to prepare a perfect Espresso in simplicity. By moving a lever or by pressing a button, powering an electric motor that is connected to a pump that brings the water pressure to 9 bars, keeping it constant throughout the entire dispensing process.The espresso machine is moved from the counter to the back counter ; the customer can follow the bartender’s ability and technical skill during the coffee preparation.

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1960 IL CAFFÈ DELLA MACCHINA A POMPA

BIOCHIMICIDIVERSI

TERRA

CASEOSO

PUTREFATTO

MUFFA

ANIMALE

SULFUREI

OSSIDATO

FENOLICO

FERMENTATO

BASICI

ALTRI CHIMICO

VEGETALE

TOSTATO

SPEZIATO

EMPIREUMATICO

FUMO

FRITTO

FRUTTA FRESCA

FIORI

ASTRINGENTE

AMARO

INTENSITÀ COLORE


BRUCIATO

SECCA

CEREALI

PASTICCERIA

CACAO

VANIGLIA

CARAMELLO

BALSAMICO

LESSO

SECCO

FRESCO

ESSICCATA





Catrame ○






○ ocsoB ○ omiT

Pino ○


Crosta di pane ○


Amaretto ○

○ ailgaPFieno ○

Fungo ○


Floreale ○



Cocco ○Pesca ○



Erba ○



Molto elevato ○



Molto elevato ○



Elevato ○



Noce ○







© 2012 Luigi O

dello, C

entro Studi A


affè





OLFATTO

VISTA

TATTO

- GUSTO

I TA


AN

NI

Intensità coloreTessitura




Biochimicidiversi

Speziato

Tostato



Astringenza

Corpo

Acido

Amaro


12

THE COFFEE

In this decade Brazilian natural coffee is the main component of the Italian blends; in addition to Brazil, the main exporters include Colombia, Costa Rica, Mexico and Uganda.At the coffee shops the Espresso is the prominent drink du-ring breakfast and work breaks of the Italian people.In Japan in 1950, coffee importation is officially permitted; in a few years hundreds of kissaten (coffee rooms) are opened. In the United States the coffee giants offers low quality blends, emphasizing price and brand as opposed to flavor and aroma. In 1966, Peet’s Coffee & Tea opened in Berkeley California, where the Dutch Alfred Peet offered his custo-mers quality coffee. Peet is considered the “grandfather” of specialty coffee.

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1960 IL CAFFÈ DELLA MACCHINA A POMPA



Prugna secca �

Crosta di pane �

Patata lessa �

Molto elevato �

Molto elevato �

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Olfactive intensity



Biochemical

Spicy

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Astringency

Body

Acidity

Bitterness

1970 – OGGI

THE ITALIAN ESPRESSO


1971 – Starbucks inauguration.1974 – Per primo il Tea & Coffee Trade Journal parla di specialty coffee. 1982 – SCAA, Specialty Coffee Association of America was born and in 1998 SCAE was born in Europe. 1993 – Established IIAC, International Coffee Tasting Institute and in 1998 INEI, National Institute of Italian Espresso.2015 – ICO, International Coffee Organization establi shes the International Coffee Day on October 1st.

CUSTOMIZED EXTRACTION MACHINES

Technologies applied to espresso machines allow you to cu-stomize the extraction and achieve levels of excellence in the cup. The first step is the creation of the independent group machine, it continues with the ability to change the pressure or water temperature on the coffee cake during extraction. The single portion coffee spreads in the stores with machines or dedicated groups.

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14

2000L‘ESPRESSO ITALIANO



Prugna secca �

Crosta di pane �

Patata lessa �

Molto elevato �

Molto elevato �

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20 A

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Olfactive intensity



Biochemical

Spicy

Roasted

Dried fruits


Astringency

Body

Acidity

Bitterness

THE COFFEE

In the 1980s, in United States starts a new research for quali-ty: in 2012, 37% of the total coffee consumption was attribu-ted to Specialty coffee (SCA data).From the 90’s in Europe, coffee becomes a drink with a strong cultural and sensorial value. With 12.6 kilos per capita the North Europeans drink the most amount of coffee in the world, but just Arabica.In Italy the preference for lighter blends, with high percen-tages of Arabica is in the Center-North, darker blends and greater use of Robusta is common the South.Japan represents 11% of the world sales by value.China discovers the coffee and Espresso, the coffee shops be-came widespread phenomena and the coffee culture grows.Australia has discovered coffee and espresso thanks to Italian immigration, that is the reason for the popularity of “Latte Re-volution”, the brewing and also the growth of small roasters receiving massive request for specialty coffee.

15

1

DegustazioneS toricaVivere la s toria del l ’espressoin prima persona


Degustazione storica

Ca�è e metodi di estrazione dal 1900 a oggi

MILANI SPA22030 Lipomo (Co) - Via Provinciale, 811

Tel. +39 031 280778 Fax. +39 031 [email protected] - www.caffemilani.it

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