Denim Club Newsletter : Issue May 21, 2014

Latest Denim News amp Updates from Across the Globe

Your Window To The World Of Denim

Newsletter

21 May 2014

wwwdenimclubindiaorg

Innovative New Color Effects by Archroma at Denim by Premiere Vision

Denim Industry Whorsquos Who

Mr Rahul Mehta CMAI India

Mr Rajiv Dayal Mafatlal Industries Ltd India

Being Human Launches lsquoDenim feverrsquo collection

Glut squeezes margins of denim manufacturers

Designer Eco-friendly jeans

Events

Denim by Premiere Vision Spain

Pg No 3

Arvind Ltd Q4 net up 1149

Show Preview

Global denim research findings revealed by Invista

Blue Jeans Patented May 20 1873

Releasing in July 2014

Denim Club Your Window To The World Of Denim

Apparel - Collection

May 2014 03

Source Fibre2fashioncom

DENIM CLUB INDIA

For summer 2014 Being Human Clothing introduces Denim Fever - the biggest trend of the season the range includes ultra-soft washed denim shirts in light weight fabrics and light jeans to beat the heat in style

Leaving behind winterrsquos dominating dark hues this season denim is dominating like never before The lsquoblue deeper than indigorsquo collection of denim wear range by Being Human Clothing is available in multiple wash options and designs

The collection also includes shirts in every shade of blue roll up sleeves shirt t-shirts with denim detailing printed shorts and much more and feeds every need for summery denim look Jeans for men and women is one of Being Human Clothingrsquos most loved products and this season it is available in completely washed out and distressed versions to crisp raw wash options there is something for everyone with multiple fit options


Ditch the dark hues for the light shades of denims this summer and if dark is the choice one can still indulge in some extravagant options at Being Human Clothing Team up the stylish and new ldquoboyfriend fitrdquo denims with a cool pin-stripped shirt to have the spring days covered And donrsquot forget to roll up the legs just to add some nonchalance

The collection can be styled in any look one prefers From denim on denim to a humble t-shirt inside the denim shirt one can experiment this trendy fabric with any style one likes Sport a formal look or head out for an evening of fun or just have a relaxed sunny day Keep it clean with a pair of undamaged dark jeans for Fridays at work or an evening soiree The Spring Summer 14 collection has got the denim wardrobe covered this season

Image Source Beinghumancom


Website wwwbeinghumanclothingcom


Apparel - Research

May 2014 04DENIM CLUB INDIA


INVISTA unveiled a summary of the resul ts f rom i ts Global Menrsquos Denim

Study at the first European Kingpins Show held at Amsterdam last week The study covered consumer insights from over 3000 male participants in Germany Italy India China the US and Brazil and was conducted by ICM Research out of the UK

The study was designed to better understand menrsquos purchase preferences related to denim and covered topics such as the key attributes men look for in jeans how satisfied they are with current offerings and where they get information about jeans Top line results showed that the two most important attributes that men were seeking were lsquofitrsquo and lsquocomfortrsquo yet 30 of participants felt current jeans offerings did not fully meet their expectations in these two areas

In the area of thermal comfort over 80 of participants said they would be interested in jeans that would help them stay cool and dry in the summer or warm and dry in the winter Yet less than 35 of participants felt current consumer selections addressed these needs Out of a variety of commercial fabric brand names the most preferred for a summer jean concept was the COOLMAX brand while the most preferred for the warm and dry concept was the THERMOLITE brand

As per Jean Hegedus INVISTArsquos Global Denim Segment Director the results reflect the consumerrsquos desire for performance clothing that can meet a variety of needs ldquoTodayrsquos time starved consumers want garments that can

simplify their lives and allow them to look good and feel comfortable under di fferent circumstancesrdquo Hegedus said ldquoOfferings like COOLMAX and THERMOLITE fabrics can help brands and retailers achieve this goalrdquo

Reflecting a consumer shift from traditional to social channels of commerce the survey showed that across all countries the internet was the most preferred source for information about jeans followed by lsquofriendsrsquo

The results were presented by INVISTA at a seminar on May 7th at the first ever Kingpins Show in Europe

ldquoThis is the 29th Kingpins show INVISTA has sponsored and once again it has been a great successrdquo said Ebru Pirinccioglu INVISTA Outerwear Marketing Segment Manager for EMEA ldquoSince the Dutch own more jeans per capita than people in any other country Amsterdam provided us with the perfect location to showcase our innovations in denim from our LYCRA dualFX technology for super-stretch garments that keep their shape to thermal concepts such as our COOLMAX ALL SEASON and THERMOLITE technologies and durable options such as TOUGH MAX LYCRA fabricsrdquo

To highlight the benefits of its denim offerings INVISTA commissioned a street dance team to perform in jeans made with their innovations during the Kingpins after-party The high energy show was enthusiastically received by the crowd and highlighted the freedom of movement and other functional advantages that INVISTA fibres can bring to denim



Dyestuff - Sustainable Fashion



Archroma a global leader in color and specialty chemicals and the former textile paper and emulsions businesses of Clariant is looking to secure a home-win at this yearrsquos Denim by Premiere Vision (DPV) in Barcelona with its amazing new effects for jeans that stand-out from the crowd

Barcelona is home to Archromarsquos Global Denim Center and On May 21-22 at Denim By PV its specialists will share their extensive expertise in ever more sustainable denim dyeing and color management with the denim community retailers and brand owners Visitors to Booth B03 can look forward to garment collections and prototypes highlighting the potential of Archromarsquos new technologies for more sustainable and exciting fashion and results

Bring out the hidden color of your jeans A capsule collection of jeans will capture a highly-innovative new way for designers to play around with wash-down techniques to apply spectacular ldquolocalrdquo effects and contrasts The eye-catching results are achieved by combining Archromarsquos new Optisulreg C sulfur dyes ndash affinity-free sulfide-free dyes suitable for GOTS and bluesignreg approval ndash with select Printofixreg T pigments

Great casual collections made easy and sustainably A collection of Chinos with high versatility in wash-down effects Optisulreg C dyes allow easier application than current techniques Their use in a Pad-DryPad-Dry process makes woven fabric dyeing with almost zero water consumption a real possibility

New way to color finishes With Optisulreg C liquid dyes Archroma presents a new option to combine resins and dyes to create touches and finishes without compromising the casual final

look This new alternative for coloring finishings is especially suitable for ldquolocalrdquo chemical wash-downs allowing to create more natural look than conventional pigment coloring

Blue garment collection alternative to indigo Manufactured with eco-conscious ADVANCED DENIM technology and its Diresulreg RDT Indicolors specialties Yarn dyeing using Archromarsquos ADVANCED DENIM technology helps adding to the desired ldquosustainable touchrdquo with unlimited tones and shades ADVANCED DENIM enables water consumption to be reduced by up to 92 up to 87 of the usual cotton waste can be avoided and up to 30 can be saved in energy costs compared to traditional denim processes

As ADVANCED DENIM technologies are being adopted by more and more denim mills around the globe visitors will be able to see denim articles made using the technology at booths of important exhibitors at the show


Industry - Outlook

DENIM CLUB INDIAMay 2014 06

Glut squeezes margins of denim manufacturersThe glut in the denim industry has been aggravated by continued addition of capacity The oversupply has not only exerted price pressure on denim mills but also forced some of them to reduce capacity utilisation by 20-30 per cent

Against a capacity of 13 billion metres the domestic demand for denim is estimated to be around 600-700 million metres and another 200-300 million metres are exported

The denim industry was functioning at a capacity of close to 1 billion metres per annum around a year ago However existing as well as new players have continued to add capacities According to industry players denim fabric prices recently fell by 5-7 per cent in certain categories

he Ahmedabad-based Aarvee Denims amp Exports Ltd is now partly producing non-denim fabric Our denim capacity utilisation is 70 per cent now There has been both price and margin pressure due to overcapacity We are forced to produce 30 per cent non-denim fabric said Ashish Shah the companys managing director

Aarvee Denims which has 85 million metres per annum denim capacity recently reduced prices by 5-7 per cent in certain fabric types

Though we have not reduced prices yet rising input costs are exerting pressure It is yet to be seen if the pressure from rising input costs will be borne by denim producers or consumers says Deepak Chiripal CEO of Nandan Denim Ltd

Nandan Denim is in the process of adding capacity From 80 million metres now the Rs 900-crore companys denim capacity will cross 100 million metres by 2015

Some companies have been able to insulate themselves from glut in the domestic market by focusing on exports Over 60 per cent of our denim business comes from exports This has helped us maintain 100 per cent capacity utilisation said Jayesh Shah director and CFO of Arvind Ltd which has denim capacity of over 110 million metres

Source Business-standardcom

Orchid tones With i t s t e a m o f c o l o r management specialists Archroma is at the forefront of supporting customers in choosing the best technical recipe and process for denim woven and garment dyeing for collections based on this yearrsquos color trend Archroma helps customers turn

technology into benefits that can be seen and felt

Sustainability calculator Visitors will be able to evaluate the potential savings of ADVANCED DENIM using Archromarsquos ONE WAY system ONE WAY is a 3-step systematic approach to the selection of chemicals and production processes

ONE WAY was honored with the prestigious ICIS Innovation Award for Best Business Innovation 2013 and the effectiveness of its sustainability calculation system was confirmed in physical tests carried out by leading machine builder Fongrsquos

Nuria Estape Project Manager for ADVANCED DENIM at Archroma comments ldquoArchromarsquos technologies aim at helping customers to take not only their creativity but also their environmental responsibility to new levels With more than 2 billion pairs of jeans made every year all over the world there is room to create with ADVANCED DENIM a much more sustainable denim industry With the wide palette of tones and looks achievable through ADVANCED DENIM we truly honor our slogan at the show ldquoWe touch and color peoplersquos lives every day everywhererdquo

Source Archromacom




Designer Eco-friendly jeansJeans have always been a passion for Designer Shani Himanshu creative director of indie label 1111eleven eleven Having worked as a consultant with brands like Diesel Levirsquos and Gas Jeans it was his experience that led him to create a collection of handmade denim Created in association with Arvind Mills the range is completely hand-crafted uses very little electricity and reinforces his firmrsquos commitment to sustainable fashion

When Shani and design partner Mia Morikawa showcased this collection ldquo100 HANDMADErdquo at Lakme Fashion Week in March the message was clear mdash wearing designer denim may be hip but donning a pair of eco-friendly signature jeans is the epitome of cool

ldquoWe all wear denims I think itrsquos good to wear something thatrsquos has soul and characterrdquo says Shani of the unique line that celebrates the human touch with its hand-spun yarn hand-woven textile and a hand-stitched final product

Veteran designer Rajesh Pratap Singh has been making denim for export for a few years now He married his love for khadi with denim over two years ago and introduced his first khadi denim line

What started as a partnership with Arvind Limited is today a dedicated collection with Singh sourcing part of the raw material from Arvind and spinning weaving and dyeing the rest at his weaving centre in Neemrana Rajasthan ldquoFor us itrsquos not just another fashion product Khadi is an individualist fabric with a lot of history a textile that is eco-friendly and innately Indian And with this handmade no-machine intervention line of jeans we are creating a pure Indian productrdquo says Singh

Singh and 1111eleven eleven participated in a fashion show in April titled lsquoDenim India Madersquo organised by the Denim Manufacturerrsquos Association The primary focus was on authentic khadi denim

ldquoIndia has been manufacturing denim for companies all over the world according to their specifications and needs with nothing intrinsically Indian in the final product Just as how Japanese Italian and American denim have unique identities we want to make something which is originally from Indiardquo says Rajesh Gupta creative head Arvind Limited denim division

Arvind is engaging with families of craftspeople who specialise in spinning dyeing and weaving techniques with the support of the Khadi Board and its many institutions With minimal utilisation of power in the ginning process and fewer pollutants released thanks to the natural indigo dyeing process the final product is extremely environment-friendly

While khadi denim has found both creative and commercial clout individual efforts like that of designer Deepika Govind are adding momentum to the cause

Govind launched her line of organic jeans ldquoDenim Greenrdquo in 2012 after nearly four years of research and development The range of hand-woven denim dyed in pure indigo remains her pet project and a testament to her commitment to all things natural

ldquoIt was during a stint at a huge denim manufacturing unit in Bangalore that I noticed that nearly 20 to 25 litres of water were wasted per pair from the beginning of the process till it reached the shelvesrdquo says Govind She chose to

Industry - Corporate



source organic cotton use plant-based dyes eliminate the acid wash and weave her fabric on the handloom Today Denim Green sells in classic fits comes with tea tree aroma wash anti-bacterial wash and even retails with pure silver buttons

Designer Samant Chauhan who worked on a pilot handloom denim line with the Ministry of Textile and the Denim Club is looking to launch his own collection ldquoThe handmade ideology resonates with our brand philosophy because handloom fabric has a very unique characterrdquo says Chauhan

Like him there are many who are discovering romance in the variable warp and weft of hand-spun denim ldquoThere are effects built into the fabric with loom stop marks and high and low of fabric These features only add to the texture of the denimrdquo says Gupta And itrsquos these imperfections that Shani is counting on to lend individuality to his product

Each 100 HANDMADE khadi denim is hand-stitched and realised by one craftsperson who autographs the finished garment and adds a serial number This kind of labour intensiveness that adds to the price of the product and nudges it into the premium segment ldquoApart from labour involved there is a lot of expenditure that goes into research and development This time and money could be earned back if there was a mass movement and costs could be controlledrdquo says Govind

And while the numbers might not add up yet mdash Arvind Limited manufactures nearly 9 million metres of regular denim per month in comparison to just 3000 metres of khadi denim mdash this does not deter Shani and Morikawa who are experimenting with extra weft techniques and are working on making khadi denim from organic Kala Cotton Singh is set to launch his 2014 edition of khadi denim in June

Source Indianexpresscom

Arvind Ltd Q4 net up 1149Arvind with its buoyant portfolio of brands has witnessed positive growth and reported a 1149 percent rise in its standalone net profit for the fourth quarter ended March 31 2014

The Q4 standalone net profit for the fiscal year 2013-14 rose to Rs 9489 crores up from Rs 8511 crores for the corresponding period last fiscal 2012-13

Ahmedabad based Arvind is one of the largest integrated textile and branded apparel players in the country

The company also registered a 65 percent increase in its standalone revenue for the fourth quarter at Rs 128396 crores viz a viz last yearrsquos Rs 120536 crores

On consolidated basis while its Q4 net profit rose by 2409 percent at Rs 9405 crores up from Rs 7579 crores its consolidated net income registered a 590 percent increase at Rs 187908 crores as against last yearrsquos Rs 177428 crores for the said period

The board of directors have also recommended a dividend of 235 percent for fiscal 2013-14 as against 165 percent for the previous year

The company witnessed a 3834 percent and 2632 percent growth in its yearly standalone net profit and net revenue at Rs 36139 crores and Rs 477548 crores respectively which was Rs 26122 crores and Rs 378029 crores respectively for the fiscal 2012-13

Meanwhile on consolidated basis the yearly net profit of Rs 35389 crores was up by 4246 percent for FY rsquo14 as against Rs 24841 crores The companyrsquos revenues grew by 2965 percent at Rs 686212 crores as compared to Rs 529252 crores

After acquiring a 49 percent stake in Calvin Klein from PVH denim fabric maker Arvind is all set to become a billion dollars company While on one hand it would help Arvind scale up its branding business on the other it would also assist in executing the long term strategy

The company has presence in 671 retail stores 656 departmental store counters and 1500 multi-brand outlets coupled with its presence across price points and categories which are expected to give a considerable boost to its sales in the next few quarters

Source Authintmailcom


From The Denim Directory


Denim Industry Whos Who

Mr Rajiv Dayal Managing Director amp CEOMafatlal Industries Ltd India

Mr Rajiv Dayal is a Chemical Engineer from Indian Institute of Technology

Delhi He has a total work experience of 35 years and prior to joining the

Arvind Mafatlal Group he worked with Hindustan Lever Ltd a subsidiary

of Unilever plc for 14 years and with Arvind Mills Limited for 6 years

Mr Dayal has a wide cross-functional experience and has worked in various capacities in

manufacturing product development projects and factory operations with HLL He had

joined Arvind International (a part of the Arvind Mills Limited) in 1992 as Vice President

Subsequently he headed the International Marketing division and became the Regional

Director of their Hong Kong operations

Mr Dayal joined the Arvind Mafatlal Group in 1998 as the Chief Executive Officer of Mafatlal

Burlington Industries Ltd and subsequently was appointed as Managing Director amp Chief

Executive Officer of Mafatlal Denim in April 2006

Mr Rajiv Dayal was appointed as the Managing Director and Chief Executive Officer of

Mafatlal Industries in May 2013

Mr Rahul Mehta PresidentCMAI India

Having passed his MBA from one of the most prestigious Management

Schools of India the Bajaj Institute in 1971 he joined what was then

called Goodlass Nerolac Paints and rose rapidly to be the India Sales

Manager by 1982 ndash when the Entrepreneurial bug bit him

Mr Mehta joined the Creative Group as Partner and Managing Director in 1982 and

launched the UFO Jeans ndash perhaps one of the earliest International Brands to come to India

Today he oversees most of the Domestic Business of the Group such as 109F Fusion

Beats Portico etc

He is acknowledged as one of the leaders of the Domestic Garment Industry and is

currently the President of the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI)

Chairman of the Japan India Fashion Trade Forum Director of International Apparel

Federation Member Textile Committee Govt of India and member of the Managing

Committee of the Apparel Export Promotion Council

He is extremely involved in Education is Chairman Advisory Board School of Fashion

Technology Pune Vice Chairman Institute of Apparel Management Delhi and on the

Board of B D Somani Institute of Fashion


Events


Show Preview

Denim by Premiere Vision SpainThe 14th edition of the leading s h o w i n t h e upstream jeans sector Denim by Premiegravere Vision

is brimming with change Launched in Paris in 2007 the show has become the canrsquot-miss meeting place for the denim community Always taking the initiative faithful to its original concept the show settles into Barcelona as of this season affirming its role as an engine for change The venue for the show being held on May 21 and 22 2014 is Hall 8 of the Fira Montjuic in the heart of the Catalan capital

Denim by Premiegravere Vision aims to create an international platform for an international industry and address the needs of premium denim in search for more elaborate and sophisticated products

The 14th edition of the show welcomes some 100 professional exhibitors both loyal and newcomers Weavers (45) manufacturers launderers finishers (23) accessory makers (22) machine makers fibre producers and spinners and technology developers

Know-how technologies and developments from 20 producing and manufacturing countries with high added-value numbering among the leaders in the jeans industry - from the Euromed zone - Turkey (31 of exhibitors) Italy (20) Morocco (9) and Tunisia (3) - to Japan India Pakistan Hong Kong and Brazil

The Denim Trends Area revealing the secrets of an enigmatic autumn winter 2015-16 season In a secret enigmatic and playful atmosphere infiltrate a season rich in creativity inspiration and innovation Discover exclusive fashion information spaces and join the game of directions for autumn winter 2015 -16 at the Denim Trends Area

The four stand-out players and guides will help in the discovery of the season

Ÿ The High Roller - made of softly washed out wool and corduroy of broken twill and blurred effects of knits and backs with abrushed fleece aspect all played in softness and suppleness

Ÿ The Expert bets - skilfully blue variations for outsized clothing in barely washed raws in blueblack twills in re-coloured selvedges

Ÿ The Provocateur - disguised weaves secret pockets and hide-and-seek trims Plays with pretence double faces marked by lasers or ice and experiments with almost seedy-looking greasy coatings

Ÿ The Nimble One plays with the light of compac t and dazz l ing fabr i cs sometimes glazed plasticized or lacquered Plays tricks with open diagonals sculpting and virtuously comfortable stretch for slim and close to the body fits accessorised with diamond-like metallic points and glints

Truth amp Light by JeanologiaThe Truth amp Light show highlights the new environmentally-friendly laser-technologies for fabrics The space is specially designed and outfitted to present on one side reality the TRUTH with its vintage pieces naturally worked-on and worn out by time and on the other side the LIGHT the laser a real laquotime machine allowing for impressive results with a hitherto unparalleled vintage appearance

Royolution ndash The Denim Revolution Spanish weaver TEJIDOS ROYO has collaborated with the IED University of Barcelona (European Institute of Design) for an exhibition of iconic pieces from denim history revisited by students and created using fabric provided by Royo A multidisciplinary exhibition that called on the fashion products decoration and visual communications departments of the IED and the five finalist pieces from the project will be presented at the show

Source Denimbypremierevisioncom


Industry - Historical Event


Blue Jeans Patented May 20 1873An icon American fashion was patented on May 20 1873 when the United States Patent and Trademark Office issued US Patent No 139121 titled Fastening Pocket-Openings The rsquo121 patent which was granted to Jacob W Davis and jointly assigned to himself and to Levi Strauss amp Company ushered in the era of denim blue jeans

The rsquo121 patent specifically related to copper rivet fasteners for denim trousers which proved to be extremely desirable and durable

Davis a tailor by training revolutionized fashion after being asked by a customer if he could create a durable pair of trousers for her husband who was a woodcutter When Davis created these pants he used the now familiar copper rivet fasteners Davis charged $3 for that first pair of jeans in 1870 See Your Denim Jeans Are a Nevada Invention

The durable patents with the rivets turned out to be extremely popular with more and more customers asking for Davis to make them a pair of the rivet clad durable pants It was at this point that David thought that he was on to something big which lead him to want to patent what he had invented In order to accomplish this he approached Levi Strauss and ask him to partner with him Strauss agreed and paid the patent fees See Jacob Davis and the Copper-riveted Jeans

The patent which included only a single photograph and text not even amounting to a full page described the invention as below

Jacob further described the invention narrowly with an eye toward known prior art saying

Source Ipwatchdogcom

[The] invention relates to a fastening for pocket-openings whereby the

sewed seams are prevented from ripping or starting from frequent pressure or strain thereon and it consists in the employment of a metal rivet or eyelet at each edge of the pocket-opening to prevent the ripping of the seam at those points The rivet or eyelet is so fastened in the seam as to bind the two parts of cloth which the seam unites together so that it shall prevent the strain or pressure from coming upon the thread with which the seam is sewed

ldquo

ldquo

I am aware that rivets have been used for securing seams in shoes as

shown in the patents to Geo Houghton No 64015 April 23 1867 and to LK Washburn No 123 313 January 30 1872 and hence I do not claim broadly fastening of seams by means of rivets

Having thus described my invention what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent ismdash

As a new article of manufacture a pair of pantaloous having the pocket-openings secured at each edge by means of rivets substantially in the manner described and shown whereby the seams at the points named are prevented from ripping as set forth

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Releasing in July 2014



May 2014 03


DENIM CLUB INDIA











Apparel - Research



























Industry - Outlook
















Source Archromacom






























































Beats Portico etc










Events


Show Preview



























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May 2014 03


DENIM CLUB INDIA











Apparel - Research



























Industry - Outlook
















Source Archromacom






























































Beats Portico etc










Events


Show Preview



























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Apparel - Research



























Industry - Outlook
















Source Archromacom






























































Beats Portico etc










Events


Show Preview



























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Events


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Beats Portico etc










Events


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Date post:	27-Jan-2015
Category:	Business
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