DENIM.docx

8/21/2019 DENIM.docx

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DENIMThe word Denim is believed to have evolved from a French fabric known as “serge deNîmes.” The cloth from Nîmes was a twill woven cloth made of a silk-wool blend; however;the fabric mix of this cloth casts some dobt on this origin since Denim has alwa!s beenmade from cotton. "ince the mid- #$%&'s Denim (arments has become a mainsta! in thewardrobe of )merican !oth. Denim re*resents a rgged cotton twill textile+ in which theweft *asses nder two or more war* ,bers+ *rodcing the familiar diagonal ribbing

identi,able on the reverse of the fabric+ which distingishes denim from cotton dck. Denimwas traditionall! colored ble with indigo d!e to make ble eans thogh ean re*resents adierent+ lighter cotton textile. )lthogh Denim eans are favorites among the )merican!oth+ it has changed st!le and signi,cance throghot the !ears. (loball!+ Denim designeare ex*erimenting with fabric and garment details inclding embellishments in order to addvale to its garments.PROCESS FLOW WEAVINGThe *rocess of *rodcing a fabric b! interlacing war* and weft threads is known as weavingThe machine sed for weaving is known as weaving machine or loom. /eaving is an art thahas been *racticed for thosands of !ears. The earliest a**lication of weaving dates back tothe 0g!*tian civili1ation. 2ver the !ears+ both the *rocess as well as the machine has

ndergone *henomenal changes. )s of toda!+ there is a wide range of looms being sed+right from the sim*lest handloom to the mostBASIC WEAVE DESIGNS1) Plain weave2) Twill weaves3) Sain Weave3ost of the other weaves are derived from these three basic weaves.FINIS!ING OF DENIM"Finis#in$ is #e %&'(ess 'ne 'n eni* +a,&i(- (a.sin$ #e* ' (#an$e ina%%ea&an(e/ e0.&e an %e&+'&*an(eThe term ,nishing covers all those treatments that serve to im*art to the textile the desiredend-se *ro*erties. These can inclde *ro*erties relating to visal eect+ handle and s*eciacharacteristics sch as water*roo,ng and non-4ammabilit!. Finishing treatment is done toachieve the ltimate cstomer re5irements.These are mostl! vale added *rocesses.6 3echanical Finish6 7hemical FinishMEC!ANICAL FINIS!ING3echanical Finishing is de,ned as an! o*eration *erformed to im*rove fabric a**earance ofnction b! *h!sical mani*lation. "team or water ma! accom*an! the *h!sicalmani*lation; however+ chemicals other than lbricants are seldom sed. Fabric lster+smoothness+ softness+ residal shrinkage and hand are exam*les of the *ro*erties that canbe altered b! mechanical ,nishing.6 7om*acting 8"hrink-*roo,ng96 7alendaring6 :aising 8Na**ing+ "eding96 "hearing6 olishing6 7ordro! 7ttingC!EMICAL FINIS!ING


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)mong chemical treatments one can frther distingish between treatments that involve achemical reaction of the ,nishing agent with the ,ber and the chemical treatments wherethis is not necessar! 8e.g. softening treatment9. "ome ,nishing treatments are more t!*icalfor certain t!*es of ,bers like eas! care ,nishes for cotton antistatic treatment for s!nthetic,bers and moth*roo,ng and anti-felt treatments for wool.


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OIL STAINSFabric gets s*ots of oil lbrication from an! *art.SL7BS


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washing. Jeg twist is a maor *roblem in denim manfactring.De to this *roblem the leg is rotated in the o**osite direction of the twill of the fabric after landering. Jeg twist is assmed to beha**en de to the directional !arn stresses. These are inherent inreglar twill weave fabrics and develo*ed dring weaving.Dring washing the !arn stresses is relaxed which change the reglar *osition ofinterlacement between war* and ,lling !arns.De to this reason the legs are twisted.

Normall! leg twist notshown on garment stage. cotton and balance&-%> other s!nthetic ,bre based on the end se and the ,ll !arn consisting essentiall! of B&-#&&> cotton and from &-B> of other s!nthetic ,bre. /ar* !arn having been si1ed. The,nished woven fabric will have a war* shrinkage var!ing from % -#B> and H-%> in the ,llingdirection. and weftshrinkage will be &-H>.

TESTINGThe fabric shrinkage is determined b! measring the dimensions of the fabric before andafter three wash? dr! c!cles. The wash? dr! c!cle consists of washing the fabric according tothe desired look 8*rocess reci*e9 and dr!ing in a conventional tmble dr!er to a maximmdr!ness at a ,nal maximm Tem*eratre of K#L7. sall! dr!ing time of H& mintes isre5ired.GLOSSER4 A,&asi'n The *rocess of making garments look worn and aged b! scra*ing or rbbing thesrface of the fabric casing abrasion.A(i Was# The ,nish that gives indigo eans shar* contrasts b! soaking *mice stones inchlorine and letting the stones create the contrast.Ba&a(9 "titching that reinforces *laces on eans sch as 4ies and *ocket o*enings.Blea(# ) chemical sed to make denim fade.B&'9en will denim was ,rst sed b! /rangler in #$M as a wa! to combat the twistingeectcharacteristic of reglar twill denim 8at the time considered a CfaltC b! man!9.C''n )fter blooming+ this *lant trns from white to *r*le+ *roviding the well-knowntextile thatwithstands high tem*eratres+ acce*ts d!es well+ and increases in strength when wet. The5alit! of cotton is determined b! the length of ,bres; the longer the ,bres+ the higher the 5alit!.C&'(9in$ ) term sed to describe how d!e rbs o fabric on skin or other fabric.Deni* The word denim is believed to be a derivative of the French term+ serge de Nîmes+rgged cottontwill textile+ in which the weft *asses nder two or more war* ,bers+ *rodcing the familiardiagonalribbing identi,able on the reverse of the fabric distingishing denim from cotton dck.D'.,le Neele ) common seam on eans where two stitches rn *arallel to each other forreinforcement.En:;*es roteins that s*eed * chemical *rocesses. The! are sed in textile *rocessing+mainl! in the ,nishing of fabrics and garments.


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En:;*e Was# ) more environmentall! sond wa! to create a stone wash+ organic *roteinsare sed to eat awa! at the indigo.Finis#in$ The overall *rocesses *erformed on a garment giving it its ni5e look.Five P'(9e 8eans 3ost fre5ent design for denim@ two back *ockets+ two front *ocketsand a coin *ocket inside the right front *ocket.!an The term sed to describe how denim feels.Ini$' ) ble d!e obtained from indigo *lants. The chemical strctre was s!ntheticall!

*rodced in #$=K.


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s*andex. ansna* backlike natral rbber.P.*i(e S'ne Jightweight and strong+ this stone is sed in the *rocess of stone-washinga**arel.Ri$# #an will/ also know as C1 twillC+ was made famos as Jevis eans standard fabricand now is

the most common twill weave sed for denim fabrics. :ight hand twill can be recogni1ed b!the *warddirection of the diagonal twill on the face of the fabric as it rns from lower left toward **eright.:ight hand twill is known to have a 4atter and smoother srface com*ared to other twillfabrics.Rin$ D;ein$ Describes a 5alit! ni5e to indigo d!e in which onl! the oter ring of the,bers in the!arn is d!ed while the inner core remains white.Rive ) metal accessor! that is sed for reinforcement of stress *oints as well asnonfnctional

ornamentation.Sanin$ rocess that makes the srface of a garment soft b! rbbing aggressivel! with*a*er containingsmall loose grains of worn rock.Selva$e The edge of a fabric that is woven so that it will not fra! or ravel. 2ld B= to H& inchshttlelooms *rodce denim where selvages are closed+ whereas on the larger modern weavingmachines the weft !arn is ct on ever! *ick+ creating what is called a fringe selvage.SPI "titches *er


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Wei$#@ Denim is traditionall! graded b! its weight *er !ard of fabric at a B$-inch width.0arl! eanswere nine-once Jevi's+ increasing to #&-once in #$BK. Jee 7owbo! ants were introdcedin themch heavier #H-once weight+ and most modern eans are now # onces.W#is9e&in$ Term sed to describe a denim that has a fading of the ridges in creases in thecrotch area

and back of the knees giving the a**earance of aged denim.

Indigo Dyeing on a 20 rope range

The softener used is cationic in nature and works best in acidic conditions


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warp preparation for rope dyeing-1

Ball Warping: !uip"ent re!uired to for" the rope of yarn# It in$ol$es creeling "ultiple ends of

yarn % Between &'0-'00 ends( and collecting the" into an untwisted rope for dyeing# the rope is

wound onto a long cylinder called a log on a "achine called as a ball warper# )o"e *otes

1# +ackages of yarn are preconditioned before ball warping

2# +ackages are loaded into the creel % larger lots- "agine transefer cree,0 and s"aller lots-

swing gate or truck creel

+ackages are placed on adapters# n adapter support the package of yarn and ensure that the

package re"ains aligned to the tensioning de$ices# Wooden plug type adapter are "ost effecti$e

as they re!uire least a"ount of e.ertion to re"o$e the e"pty package#

*e.t )tep is threading the tensioner located at each yarn package

1# +ost and Disk tensioner# It has two posts "ounted onto a flat base# two round disk are placed

onto each post# The yarn is threaded between the disk and wrapped around the post# /ne of the

parts is "o$able so that the angle of wrap can be $aried# ore tension can be added to the yarn

by adding round weights onto the top disk#

d$antages are 1# Ine.pnsi$e 2# does arginally ade!uate ob of "aintaining yarn tension

)i"ple to thread up # ,ow "aintenance re!uire"ents#

Disad$antages are 1# 3arn has a tendency to u"p out fro" between the disks at the rear of the

creel# 2# It is labour intensi$e- when different tension le$els are re!uired# There is "ore

fre!uency of cleaning up # It doesnt control tension well at higher speed#

2# The dri$en disk tensioner

It also uses twin disk arrange"ent4 howe$er the disks are supported fro" below- there are no

posts# Tension is applied fro" abo$e- there are weights or spring loaded#

gear under each pair of disks is "atched to another gear "ounted on a continuous shaft which

runs the length of the $ertical tension post# This shaft is connected to a rp" "otor which rotate

the disk#


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d$antage of disk rotation are 1# Thread cutting pre$ention 2# Da"pens out $ariation due to

ballooning action of yarn# There is "or unifor" tension # ,ess effor re!uired to change tension

le$els#

Disad$antages are 1# It is "ore difficult to thread up4 there is "ore "aintenance due to electric

"otor used and at high speed the tension control is not well#

warp preparation for rope dyeing-II

/5 tensioner: It consists of round cylinderical housing and is located at each running package in

the creel# t the top and botto" of the housing is a s"all cera"ic eyelet# Inside of the housing ar

two steel balls#The yarn is threaded up through the botto" eyelet4 around the steel balls out

through the top of the housing#

Tension is applied to the yarn as it passes around the steel balls inside of the housing#

d$antages: Tension at the front and back of the creel is constant# 2# dust"ents are ne$er

re!uired# It is al"ost "aintenance free#

Disad$antages:

1# there is a li"it to how "uch tension can be applied

2# Threading of tensioner is difficult

It is relati$ely e.pensi$e#

,6T7/*I6 T*)I/*7

1# 6apastan Type

2# 7otating Disc Type

6apastan Type: There is a round capastan "ounted on a precision shaft# This capastan is

positioned onto the bearings which are located inside of a round D6 coil# The yarn is wrapped

around the outer surface of the capastan# The action of the yarn being pulled out of the creel by

warper rotates capastan# If no $oltage is applied to the D6 coil4 an field is created under the

capastan# hysterisis ring is attached to the inside of the capastan which reacts to this field

and as such creates resistance to free rotation of the capastan# This resistance to rotation adds

tension to the yarn on the capastan8s outer surface# 9arrying le$els of D6 $oltages are applied to

each tensioner in the creel and will pro$ide e!ual tension to each in the rope#

7otating Disc Type: Two disks are "ounted in the $ertical position onto a cera"ic shaft# Behind

the inside disk is a D6 coil# When $oltage is applied to the D6 coil4 an electro"agnetic field is

created# The outside disk is steel and is of course attached to the "agnetic field which has been

created# It pulls tightly against inner disk again depending upon the strength of the field


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created by the D6 coil4 the yarn is threaded between the two disks# 7+ 6 "otor "ounted

on each tensioiner4 turn these disks to pre$ent thread cutting#

d$antage of 6apstan types:

- *o electric "otor

- yarn is not distorted due to pinching action of disk- less "aintenance

s speed of ball warping is slow4 "echanical tensioner are nor"ally sufficient

'# fter that the yarn is then threaded through the eyebrows down the length of the creel# ;ere

self threading type of cera"ic eyelet is generally sufficient#


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"aintain control of the yarn during reopening at the long chain bea"er# It can be "anually or

pneu"atically operated#

*otes on 3arn for 7ope Dyeing in Deni"

> 3arn faces stress and stretch at ball warping4 rope dyeing4 rebea"ing4 si5ing and loo" shed so

elongation of yarn should be "ore than stretch at %ball warping ? 7obe Dyeing? 7ebea"ing ?

)i5ing (@ %2-&A( ? ,oo" shed %about 'A(

> Tension at Ball warping should be less by =-A of single yarn strength#

> )trength 69 should be within li"its as it "ay gi$e rise to weak points

> The tendency of yarn to "igrate at rope dyeing can be countered by less "icronaire of yarn

% should be around -#2(

> ore dropping of short fibers at long chain bea"ing is good

>The sensiti$ity settings for neps is set at ?20 for rotor spun yarn and not ?200 as in case of ring

spun yarn# The reason for this is that the structure of rotor spun yarn is intrinsically different fro"

that of con$entional ring spun yarn# *eps in rotor yarn tend to be spun into the solid yarn body

rather than re"aining on the yarn surface4 which is typical of ring spun yarns# lthough

e"bedded in the yarn core4 these neps still represent a short "ass defect and will therefore

trigger the i"perfection counter upon e.ceeding the preset $alue# ;owe$er4 co"pared to neps

that are attached to the yarn surface4 fully e"bedded neps are barely perceptible for the hu"an

eye# Thus4 in order to balance the typical $isual appearance of rotor spun yarn with the

i"perfection counts4 ?20 sensiti$ity setting is a co""on con$ention for rotor spun yarns#

6o"parison of 7ing 3arn with / yarn at *e =


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+ractical *otes on 7ope Dyeing for Indigo Dyed Deni"

The passage of yarn in rope dyeing is as follows:

Pre-scouring -->hot wash-->cold wash --> Dye baths--> hot wash-->cold wash-->

application of softener

lets discuss these processes one by one:

Pre-scouring

1# The obecti$es of pre-scouring are the re"o$al of wa. content fro" cotton4 re"o$al of trapped

air fro" cotton yarn and aking yarn wet

2# This is done at C0 o 6

We use the following ingredients at pre-scouring stage:

Caustic Soda: Its !uantity depends upon the !uality of cotton fibres used in the "i.ing# eneral

we take 2-A of caustic soda# It re"o$es the wa. by the action of soapanification#

Wetting agent: It is anionic in nature

Sequestering Agent: $en with the use of water softening4 it is $ery difficult to find the desired


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softness in water % about 2-& pp"( # )o we use the agent to "ake the water soft#

# Why Trapped ir should be re"o$ed# The reason for this can be understood as follows:

In 1 kg of yarn4 there is appro.i"ately 2 litres of air# 1 litre of air deco"poses 1# litres of )odiu"

;ydrosulphide# It will cause une$en dyeing and "ore consu"ption of )odiu" ;ydrosulphide

% hydro(#

'# bsorbency of yarn "ay be checked after scouring#

Hot wash

s so"e caustic is carried by the yarn after pre-scouring4 so hot water is gi$en at =0-006# If thi

is not done4 this yarn will go into the dye-bath which will change the p; of the dye-bath#

Cold Wash

fter hot wash4 yarn te"perature is "ore# To bring it back to its roo" te"perature4 cold wash is

gi$en to it#

!D"# D$%!"

&' Indigo is not a perfect $at color# It "ay be called a trash $at color# The constant of substanti$ity

for other colors is &04 for indigo it is only 2#=# )o there is a need of ' to < dye baths and "ake the

use of "ulti-dip and "ulti-nip facility to increase the penetration'

(' The dyeing is done at roo" te"perature as indigo belongs to Ik class of $at dyes4 where

dyeing is done at roo" te"perature and o.idation is done by air only and not by che"icals# Ifo.idi5ing agents are used4 they will cause stripping of colors#

)' Indigo is not soluble in water# )o it is reduced with )odiu" ;ydrosulphide# Then caustic soda

added to "ake sodiu" salt of $at colors to "ake it soluble# To reduce 1 kg of Indigo4 =00 g"s of

sodiu" hydrosulphide is re!uired# ;owe$er so"e e.tra );) needs to be taken to a$oid so"e

deco"position of );)#

+ractically it is prepared in the following se!uence

-Take indigo

-dd caustic-Then reducing agent

*' When caustic is added to indigo4 it is an e.other"ic reaction# It is allowed to cool down4 then

before sending it to feeder4 sodiu" hydro-sulphide is added# 7educing agent is not added first as

it will be deco"posed first4 so consu"ption of it will increase# It is also not ad$isable to take

solubalised $at4 as offered by so"e co"panies due to the following reasons:


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a# If it is used after < "onths4 there will be a deco"position of sod# ;ydrosulphide# It will beco"e

partially soluble# Then to "ake it soluble again4 "ore );) has to be added#

b# Transportation is difficult

c# 6ost is "ore

+' Eeeding )yste"

7ate of flow of yarn is gi$en by

%%*o of ropes . no of ends . speed of "achine(F count . 1#


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It should be around =


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,onger the dipping ti"e4 better will be the penetration and lesser will be the ring dyeing

effect# It $aries fro" 1'-22 seconds#

Squee7e Pressure

;igh pressure will lead to lower wet pick up and result in lesser color and better

penetration# t rope dyeing4 s!uee5e pressure is '-10 tonnes4 ie# wet pick up is as low as

1000(F%=>0>202(@ =C2 g"s

shade desired @ 2A

"ount of dye to be replenishedF"in@ 1'#' g"s

%ffect of pH

t p; of 10#' to 11#'4 there will be for"ation of "ore "onophenolate ions4 which lead to

higher color yield4 as strike rate of the dye to the yarn bundle is $ery high4 and wash downacti$ities will be $ery good#

t p; higher than this4 dye penetration will be less and wash down characteristics are also

poor#

0esting

&' Al9alinity in Dye ath 1iquor

+ipette 10#0 "l of $at li!uor into 100"l of distilled water in a 1'0 "l beaker# place under

continuous agitation and insert the electrodes of a p; "eter calibrated at p; =#0 with

standard buffer solution#

Titrate with tenth nor"al ;6l % 0#1 ;6l( to p; =#0 %"l @ (calculate: gFl of *a/; @ >0#0

(' Hydro in Dye bath 1iquor

dd 2 "l of &=A ;6;/ to 1'0 "l beaker# dd 2 "l of dye range li!uor # dd < "l of 2'A

glacial acetic acid solution prepared by diluting 1 part acid with & parts water# dd 2 "l of

starchFJI indicator# dd "l of water# Titrate with 0#0< * % prepared by diluting


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Fl of hydro@ "o fo 0#0


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Different lenghts of sections< High Wastage 2ate

This is caused by o$er-or-under warping of sections4 unti"ely laying of lease cords due to faulty

operation of the counter and the carelessness of operati$e#

#5erlapping8%=cessi5e Distance

The sections o$erlap each other or there is an e.cessi$e distance between the"# This is caused

by support i"properly set and the careless of warper operati$e#

Stripiness in the Warp

This is caused by i"proper "i.ing of raw "aterial

rregular Winding

Irregular winding on the warper8s bea" which is displaced towards one end# This is due to

i"proper position of the wea$er8s bea" in warp bea"ing#

Different lenghts of %nds

It also includes irregular distribution of the section in the wea$er8s bea" width# This is caused by

i"proper fi.ing of section ends to the wea$er8s bea"#

%=cessi5e or insufficient nu6ber of yarn ends in the warp

This is caused by i"proper calculation at gaiting#

Warp ea6ing on a defecti5e wea5ers bea6This is caused by carelessness of the assistant fore"an and the warper operati$e#

ncorrect 1aying of lease cords< or their absence in so6e sections

gain this is caused by carelessness of the warper operati$e#

$ou 6ight also li9e:

aor Warping Defects

6ost of Warping

control of end breaks in warping

aor Warping Defects

/n Bea" Warpers

&' 1apped %nds

The yarn8s broken end is not tied to its end on the warp bea" and o$erlaps the adacent yarn#

http://mytextilenotes.blogspot.com/2008/12/major-warping-defects.htmlhttp://mytextilenotes.blogspot.com/2008/10/cost-of-warping.htmlhttp://mytextilenotes.blogspot.com/2008/10/control-of-end-breaks-in-warping.htmlhttp://mytextilenotes.blogspot.in/2008/12/major-warping-defects.htmlhttp://mytextilenotes.blogspot.com/2008/12/major-warping-defects.htmlhttp://mytextilenotes.blogspot.com/2008/10/cost-of-warping.htmlhttp://mytextilenotes.blogspot.com/2008/10/control-of-end-breaks-in-warping.htmlhttp://mytextilenotes.blogspot.in/2008/12/major-warping-defects.html


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The be" is not properly braked4 the signal hook fails to operate#

(' ulges and yarn ends drawn fro6 the 6idddle

The broken end has not been correctly found and pieced up to the adacent yarn#

)' ro9en ends on the bea6

It is due to reasons "entioned in point 2# group of ends is broken and tied as a bunch or

worked-in with o$erlapping

*' ncision of yarn at the butts of the warp bea6 or slac9ness of e=tre6e yarns

The reed is i"properly set with respect to the warp bea" flanges defor"ation of the warp bea"

flange

+' 0he nu6ber of yarn ends of the bea6 is e=cessi5e or insufficient

Incorrect nu"ber of bobbins in warping

,' Conical winding on the bea6

Incorrect load applied by the pressure roller

' Slac9s and irregular yarn tension

I"proper threading of the yarn into the tension de$ices eection of yarn fro" under the disc of th

yarn tensioning de$ice4 yarn tension de$ices of poor !uality

#;requent yarn brea9ages at the bea6 edges

Burrs and nicks on the surface of the warp bea" flanges

C# 6proper length of warping

alfunction of the counter4 and the brakes of the "easuring de$ice and warp bea"s&?' Coarse @nots

anual tying-up

11# 1oose yarn winding

The pressure roller is lightly pressed against the warp roller

12# Wor9ing -in of fluff< oily ends and yarn of different density

6areless work of the operati$e4 creeler and oiler#

1 ulgy winding on the warp bea6

Irregular laying of yarn ends in the reed4 "issing a dent and placing two ends in the adacent one

+ractical 6onsiderations for indigo dyeing Oarn for :o*e D!eing P Oarn faces stress and stretch at ball war*ing+ ro*e d!eing+ rebeaming+ si1ing

and loom shed so elongation of !arn shold be more than stretch at 8ball

war*ing Q :obe D!eingQ :ebeaming Q "i1ing 9R 8B-H>9 Q Joom shed 8abot

%>9


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P Tension at Iall war*ing shold be less b! K-=> of single !arn strength.

P "trength 7S shold be within limits as it ma! give rise to weak *oints

P The tendenc! of !arn to migrate at ro*e d!eing can be contered b! lessmicronaire of !arn 8 shold be arond H.=-.B9

P 3ore dro**ing of short ,bers at long chain beaming is good

=T#e sensiivi; sein$s +'& ne%s is se a >2?@ +'& &''& s%.n ;a&n

an n' >2@@ as in (ase '+ &in$ s%.n ;a&n T#e &eas'n +'& #is is #a

#e s&.(.&e '+ &''& s%.n ;a&n is in&insi(all; ie&en +&'* #a '+

('nveni'nal &in$ s%.n ;a&n Ne%s in &''& ;a&n en ' ,e s%.n in'

#e s'li ;a&n ,'; &a#e& #an &e*ainin$ 'n #e ;a&n s.&+a(e/ w#i(#

is ;%i(al '+ &in$ s%.n ;a&ns Al#'.$# e*,ee in #e ;a&n ('&e/

#ese ne%s sill &e%&esen a s#'& *ass e+e( an will #e&e+'&e

&i$$e& #e i*%e&+e(i'n ('.ne& .%'n e0(eein$ #e %&ese val.e

!'weve&/ ('*%a&e ' ne%s #a a&e aa(#e ' #e ;a&n s.&+a(e/

+.ll; e*,ee ne%s a&e ,a&el; %e&(e%i,le +'& #e #.*an e;e T#.s/

in '&e& ' ,alan(e #e ;%i(al vis.al a%%ea&an(e '+ &''& s%.n ;a&n

wi# #e i*%e&+e(i'n ('.ns/ >2?@ sensiivi; sein$ is a ('**'n('nveni'n +'& &''& s%.n ;a&ns

C'*%a&is'n '+ Rin$ 4a&n wi# OE ;a&n a Ne

1 P&'(ess '+ ;ein$ '+ s.l%#.& ('l'&1s Was# an9 *e&(e&isai'n ,; a9in$ 22 NaO! ie 2@ $%l

2n Was# Tan9 !' Was#

3& Was# Tan9 C'l Was#

H. In 1s an 2n ;e ,a# a9e s.l%#.& ('l'& 6? 'n #e wei$# '+#e ;a&n s#ee Te*%e&a.&e @ e$ (el T#e s'l.i'n ('nains

#e +'ll'win$

1 s'l.,alise s.l%#.& ('l'& 1@ $%l

2 Na2S66 &e.(in$ a$en I is ae ' in(&ease is &e.(in$

%'we&

3 Ca.sin( S'a 66 1@ $%l66 &e.(in$ a$en


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H Wein$ a$en66 2$%l

Ani'0ien S.l%#ie Gl.('se %ase66 $%l) T#is is ae '

%&even #e '0iai'n '+ S.l%#ie s'l.i'n I will alwa;s &e*ain

in &e.(e +'&*

Al's i+ #e s#ae is sli$#l; $&e;is#/ 'ne (an a in; in$e '+

s.l%#e& ,l.e66 2@$%l)in III/ IV an V ;e ,a#66 ('l was#

in # ;e ,a# We a9e !2O23@)>A(ei( A(i21 ,; wei$#)

!2O2 a(s as an '0iisin$ a$en B. as i a(s 'n ne.&al %! J

an a+e& ('l ,a# #e s'l.i'n is sli$#l; al9aline/ ' *a9e i

ne.&al wil a a(ei( a(i A(s in al9aline %!/ '0iisin$ a(i'n '+

!2O2 will ,e si*ila& ' #e ,lea(#in$ a(i'n/ w#i(# *a; (a.se

ene&in$ in #e +a,&i(

# an ?# D;e Ba# C'l Was#

Was# B'0 N.*,e& H !e&e was#in$ is 'ne wi# ee&$en an

s'a as# a @6@ e$(

# an # Was# B'0 !' Was#

# was# B'0 !e&e s'+ne& is ae a 2 $%l I is (ai'ni(s'+ene& wi# %! H ' As .&in$ '0iai'n '+ s.l%#.&/

s&en$# is &e.(e ,; 1@ On a ;a&n s.l%#.& is '+ w' ;%es

1 F&ee S.l%#.&

2 Rea(e S.l%#.&

T#e +&ee s.l%#.& will &ea( wi# *'is.&e in #e a*'s%#e&e '

+'&*

!2O > S 66 !2SOH

W#i(# ene&s #e ;a&n N'w a a(ii( %! &ea(i'n is *.(# +ase&

S' we a 'nl; a s*all a*'.n '+ s'+ene& 2 $%l) as a$ains

#a in ini$' w#i(# is 1@@$%l

3& P'in

Ove& all .&in$ s.l%#.& ;ein$ an s'&in$/ #e ;a&n s&en$# is

&e.(e ,; 1 as ('*%a&e ' Ini$'


22/54

H# %'in

I+ ,all +'&*ai'n a9es %la(e '+ s.l%#.& ;e wa&% a l''* s#e/

#en we (an a9en in H# ;e ,a# lile Na2S>Ca.si( ' &e.(e

#e +&ee s.l%#.&

P&a(i(al C'nsie&ai'ns in R'%e D;ein$ +'& Ini$' ;e Deni*

T#e %assa$e '+ ;a&n in &'%e ;ein$ is as +'ll'ws

P&e6s('.&in$ 66#' was#66('l was# 66 D;e ,a#s66 #'

was#66('l was#66 a%%li(ai'n '+ s'+ene&

P&e6s('.&in$1 T#e ',Ke(ives '+ %&e6s('.&in$ a&e #e &e*'val '+ wa0 ('nen

+&'* (''n/ &e*'val '+ &a%%e ai& +&'* (''n ;a&n an Ma9in$;a&n we

2 T#is is 'ne a @ ' C

3 We .se #e +'ll'win$ in$&eiens a %&e6s('.&in$ sa$e

Ca.si( S'a Is .ani; e%ens .%'n #e .ali; '+ (''n

,&es .se in #e *i0in$ Gene&all; we a9e 26H '+ (a.si( s'a

I &e*'ves #e wa0 ,; #e a(i'n '+ s'a%ani(ai'n

Wein$ a$en I is ani'ni( in na.&e

Se.ese&in$ A$en Even wi# #e .se '+ wae& s'+enin$/ i isve&; i(.l ' n #e esi&e s'+ness in wae& a,'. 263

%%*) S' we .se #e a$en ' *a9e #e wae& s'+

H W#; T&a%%e Ai& s#'.l ,e &e*'ve T#e &eas'n +'& #is (an ,e

.ne&s'' as +'ll'ws

In 1 9$ '+ ;a&n/ #e&e is a%%&'0i*ael; 2 li&es '+ ai& 1 li&e '+ ai&

e('*%'ses 1? li&es '+ S'i.* !;&'s.l%#ie I will (a.se

.neven ;ein$ an *'&e ('ns.*%i'n '+ S'i.* !;&'s.l%#ie

#;&') A,s'&,en(; '+ ;a&n *a; ,e (#e(9e a+e& s('.&in$

!' was#

As s'*e (a.si( is (a&&ie ,; #e ;a&n a+e& %&e6s('.&in$/ s' #'

wae& is $iven a @6?@@C I+ #is is n' 'ne/ #is ;a&n will $' in

#e ;e6,a# w#i(# will (#an$e #e %! '+ #e ;e6,a#


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C'l Was#

A+e& #' was#/ ;a&n e*%e&a.&e is *'&e T' ,&in$ i ,a(9 ' is

&''* e*%e&a.&e/ ('l was# is $iven ' i

INDIGO D4EING1 Ini$' is n' a %e&+e( va ('l'& I *a; ,e (alle a &as# va

('l'& T#e ('nsan '+ s.,sanivi; +'& '#e& ('l'&s is 3@/ +'&

ini$' i is 'nl; 2 S' #e&e is a nee '+ ' ;e ,a#s an

*a9e #e .se '+ *.li6i% an *.li6ni% +a(ili; ' in(&ease #e

%ene&ai'n

2 T#e ;ein$ is 'ne a &''* e*%e&a.&e as ini$' ,el'n$s ' I

(lass '+ va ;es/ w#e&e ;ein$ is 'ne a &''* e*%e&a.&e an

'0iai'n is 'ne ,; ai& 'nl; an n' ,; (#e*i(als I+ '0ii:in$a$ens a&e .se/ #e; will (a.se s&i%%in$ '+ ('l'&s

3 Ini$' is n' s'l.,le in wae& S' i is &e.(e wi# S'i.*

!;&'s.l%#ie T#en (a.si( s'a is ae ' *a9e s'i.* sal '

va ('l'&s ' *a9e i s'l.,le T' &e.(e 1 9$ '+ Ini$'/ @@ $*s '

s'i.* #;&'s.l%#ie is &e.i&e !'weve& s'*e e0&a S!S

nees ' ,e a9en ' av'i s'*e e('*%'sii'n '+ S!S

P&a(i(all; i is %&e%a&e in #e +'ll'win$ se.en(e

6Ta9e ini$'

6A (a.si(

6T#en &e.(in$ a$en

H W#en (a.si( is ae ' ini$'/ i is an e0'#e&*i( &ea(i'n I

is all'we ' (''l 'wn/ #en ,e+'&e senin$ i ' +eee&/ s'i.*

#;&'6s.l%#ie is ae Re.(in$ a$en is n' ae &s as i

will ,e e('*%'se &s/ s' ('ns.*%i'n '+ i will in(&ease I is

als' n' avisa,le ' a9e s'l.,alise va/ as 'e&e ,; s'*e

('*%anies .e ' #e +'ll'win$ &eas'ns

a I+ i is .se a+e& *'n#s/ #e&e will ,e a e('*%'sii'n '+

s' !;&'s.l%#ie I will ,e('*e %a&iall; s'l.,le T#en ' *a9

i s'l.,le a$ain/ *'&e S!S #as ' ,e ae


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, T&ans%'&ai'n is i(.l

( C's is *'&e

Feein$ S;se*

Rae '+ 'w '+ ;a&n is $iven ,;N' '+ &'%es 0 n' '+ ens 0 s%ee '+ *a(#ine) ('.n 0 13 0

1@@@)in 9$ '+ ;a&n *in.e

S' we (an ee&*ine #e &ae '+ +ee '+ ini$' I is ve&;

i*%'&an #a &e%lenis#*en '+ ini$' is #e&e as an; va&iai'n

will &es.l in #e (#an$e '+ s#ae an als' i+ level is *'&e/ #e&e

is a %&',le* '+ 've&6'w

I+ 'al (a%a(i; '+ ;e ,a# +'& e0a*%le is 1@@@ li&es/ #en(i&(.lai'n *.s ,e 3 i*es #e v'l.*e I+ i is less #en #e&e a&e

1@@ (#an(es '+ $ein$ a li$#e& s#ae

C'&e an &in$ ;ein$ ee(

T#is ee( is ',aine ,; *.lii%6*.lini% +a(ili;

? %! '+ #e D;e ,a# s#'.l ,e 9e% in ,eween 1@611 A #i

%! / s'i.* sal '+ Ini$' is *'n' %#en'li( +'&* A #is +'&*/ #

s&i9e &ae '+ ;e is ve&; #i$# S' a+e& was#in$/ #e&e will ,e a,ee& ;e ee( A %! 11 ' 11/ a #is ani; is less/ s' ;e

ee( will ,e less %&'*inen

%! is ('n&'lle ,; #e aii'n '+ (a.si( s'a

Tesin$ '+ !;&'

TOTAL !4DROWe a9e 1@ *l '+ ini' wi# S!S in 3@63 *l '+ wae& I is se +'&

'ne *in.e an s#a9en As ai& will e('*%'se S!S S' va(..*

(&eae will +e(# #e wae& +&'* a,'ve I+ 3 *l '+ wae& is

&e.i&e/ #en ('n(en&ai'n '+ #;&' is 3 $%l As a #.*, &.le/

('n(en&ai'n '+ 'al #;&' s#'.l ,e *in 1 $%l


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RED7CED !4DRO

I is #e #;&' #a is .se +'& #e &e.(i'n '+ Ini$' I s#'.l

,e a&'.n @ 1@@@ 9$ '+ Ini$' nees @@ 9$ '+ #;&' '

&e.(e i) F'& esin$ we a9e 1@ *l '+ ;e s'l.i'n an 3@ *l '+

wae& an 6 &'%s '+ H@ +'&*ale#;e an s#a9e i +'& 'ne

*in.e T#e wae& #a $'es $ives #e &eain$s '+ #e &e.(e#;&'

T'al !;&'6 Re.(e !;&' J +&ee #;&'

I+ T'al #;&' is *in 1 $*li #en +&ee #;&' *.s ,e *in @

$*s li&e w#i(# a(s as ,.e&

1@ Als' #;&' &e.(i'n (a%a(i; is *eas.&e ,; *V *ee& w#i(

*eas.&es #e Re'0 P'enialI s#'.l ,e a&'.n @6?@@

T#&'.$# #e a;/ #e &e'0 %'enial s#'.l ,e >6 2@ *V '+ #e

n'&* I+ i is *'&e #en #e %&'(ess ('n&'l is a +ail.&e

Ca.si(66 I is a&'.n @H ' @ i*es #e #;&' .se

Was#in$R.,,in$ +asness '+ ini$' is ve&; i*%'&an On a s(ale '+ 16H)/

i is 2 Was#in$ is 'ne ' i*%&'ve #e &.,,in$ +asness

Was# a @ e$66 Was# a @ e$66 Was# a &''*

e*%e&a.&e66 was# wi# s'+ene&

W#; S'+ene&

1 T#e &'%e is $'in$ ' ,e '%ene a L'n$ C#ain Bea*e& I #es'+ene& is n' .se/ '%enin$ will ,e #a*%e&e

2 I is $ene&all; 12 '+ #e wei$# '+ #e ;a&n I is a (ai'ni(

s'+ene& I is alwa;s #avin$ %! in #e &an$e '+ H ' S'+enin$

is 'ne a &''* e*%e&a.&e I+ #i$# e*%e&a.&e is .se #e&e is

alwa;s s'*e (#an(e '+ ene&in$ '+ ;a&n


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3 C'n(e% '+ B.e& %! is $iven ,; Vi&9le& 7SA/ #e; sa; ,;

aii'n '+ #is/ #e&e is H@ less ('ns.*%i'n '+ Ini$' +'& sa*e

s#ae e%#

H Mee&in$ C'ns.*%i'n

I+ s'l.i'n is '+ @@ li&es

1@ Ini$'66@ li&es

!;&'66 @= J 3 9$

Ca.si(66 3=@HHJ 2? 9$

I ,el'n$s ' a VAT (lass '+ ;es I #as a a&9 ,l.e ('l'& wi a,&'n:e l.s&e I ,el'n$s ' 5I (lass '+ ;es In #is (lass/ ;ein$

is 'ne a ('l an ai& '0iai'n is 'ne ' &e'0iise #e ;e I

(an ,e a%%lie 'n ,'# (ell.l'si( an %&'ein ,&es F'& %&'ein

,&es/ a wea9e& al9aline s'l.i'n is .se I (an ,e &e.(e ,;

NaO! an Na2SOH in wae& ' $ive *'n'%#en'lae an

,i%#en'lae i'ns as ('*%lee s'l.i'n Re.(e +'&* '+ Ini$' is

(alle le.(' ini$' Le.(' #as $' l'w ani; +'& (ell.l'si( ,&es

D;e a9e .% (an ,e i*%&'ve ,;1 Ei#e& *e&(e&isai'n '+ (ell.l'si( ,&es ,e+'&e ,; ;ein$

2 '& ,; a'%in$ *.lii%/ s.ee:e an ai&in$ %&'(ess/ s' #a

;e is ('ae 'n #e ,&e la;e& ,; la;e&

Ini$' (an ,e +.&#e& evel'%e in' !al'$enae e&ivaives an

s.l%#'nae e&ivaives !al'$enae e&ivaives $ive ,ee&

+asness %&'%e&ies an ,&i$#e& s#aes/ w#e&eas s.l%#'nae

e&ivaives $ives a s'l.,le ,l.e ;e/ $'' ;e an is a%%li(a,le

'n %&'ein ,&es

&ea(i'n

I*a$e 1

Al#'.$# ini$' is a va ;e/ i (an ,e &e$a&e as a Q&as#Q ;e/

#e ;ein$ an +asness %&'%e&ies a&e in n' wa; ('*%a&a,le '


27/54

'#e& (lass '+ va ;es I is .e ' #ese %&'%e&ies/ #a *a9e i

an e0(ellen ;e +'& eni* T#e 'n 'ne +ain$ an #e ,lea(#

'wn %&'%e&ies '+ ini$' ,l.e #as $ene&ae a l' '+ eni* Kean

+as#i'ns li9e s'ne/ i(e +ae l''9s/ e( T#ese s%e(ial ee(s

(ann' ,e si*.lae ,; #e '#e& (lasses '+ ;es

D.&in$ P&e%a&ai.'n '+ s'(9 va/ #e +'ll'win$ %'ins *.s ,e&e*e*,e&e

1 Vain$ e*%e&.&e s#'.l ,e as (l'se ' &''* e*%e&a.&e as

%'ssi,le

2 Si&&in$ s#'.l ,e *in.*.*/ .nne(essa&; si&&in$ ae(s #e

sa,ili; '+ &e.(e va

3 V'l.*e '+ #e &e.(e va s#'.l ,e 9e% ('nsan +'& eve&;

s'(9 va ,a(#/ as #e ('nsan v'l.*e will ens.&e a ('nsan&e%lenis#in$ a*'.n

F'& &'%e ;ein$ s;se*/ wi# (#e*i(al &e%lenis#*en

wi# S'(9 &e%lenis#*en

Ini$' NaO! Na2SOH 1@?@?

Wi#'. s'(9 &e%lenis#*enini$' NaO! Na2SOH 1112

C#e*i(al Feein$

NaO! Na2SOH 1 1261

ie +'& a%%&'0i*ael; @ $%l '+ NaO!66 12@ $%l '+ #;&' is

&e.i&e


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