Different hair types,perfect conditioning.Specific solutions for hair.
Contents Page
Today’s hair conditioning 02-09Consumers hair types & demands 03-05Conditioning agents 06-07Benefits for individual needs 08-09
Test results 10-17Conditioning 11Sustainable conditioning 12-13Color care, Volume, UV light protection 14-15Anti hair breakage, Heat protection, Gloss 16-17
Conditioning map 18-19Shampoo 18Conditioner 19
Conditioner table 20-23Silicone conditioning agents 20Organic conditioning agents 22
Formulation ideas 24-27
Specialized hair conditioning
Today‘s hair types require individual solutions. The variety of hair differs around the globe, from curly to straight and from thin to thick. Additionally, differences in the climate have to be managed. Several treatments, like coloring and straightening the hair, cause various degrees of damage to the hair. Beautiful looking hair is important for self confidence and requires appropriate care with the right shampoo and conditioner. The demand on modern conditioning ingredients is to fulfill consumer needs of high convenience combined with high performance. Our conditioning agents are made to smoothen, protect, volumize and refresh hair and keep or bring it to its best condition. Evonik‘s portfolio covers professional conditioning agents to evolve the beauty of every hair type. Explore our product range to find out which product is right for your hair.
Detang
ling /
wet
comb
Wet
feel
Dry co
mbing f
orce r
educ
ed
Dry co
mbing f
orce i
ncrea
sed
Dry fee
l
Gloss /
shine
Hold of
hairs
tyle (
reduc
ed cu
rl droo
p)
Straig
htenin
g effec
t (weig
hing d
own)
Volume /
body
Antista
tic eff
ect
Wash
fastn
ess / co
lor pr
otecti
on
UV prote
ction
Hea
t prot
ectio
n
fine
virgin ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯
permed ▯ ▯ ▯
dyed ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯
Caucasian
Fine to medium texture and can be straight, wavy or curly. Oval cross section with color ranging from dark brown to light blond. Due to its thin diameter, volume is the most desired wish.
normal
virgin ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯
grey/white ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯
permed ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯
dyed ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯
Asian
On average, it is the thickest hair compared to other ethnic hair types. Typically straight with a round cross section. Color varies from medium brown to black. Gloss and straight-ening effect desired.
straight
virgin ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯
permed ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯
dyed ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯
Hispanic / Mulatto
Medium to thick textured hair, which can be wavy or have a more defined curl. Color typically light to dark brown. Frizz and manageability is a necessity to maintain desired effect.
curly
virgin ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯
straightened ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯
dyed ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯
African
Afro-textured, tightly coiled, spiral or kinky. Color ranges from dark brown to black and has an elliptical cross section. Due to its tightly coiled shape, sebum is unable to spread evenly along the hair fiber. Therefore, oil treatments are common.
kinky
virgin ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯
straightened ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯
dyed ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯
▯ essential ▯ important
Global hair types and their specific conditioning demands
| 0504
Organics
Quat type Structure Trade name INCI name Conc. %
MonoalkylVARISOFT 300
VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets
Cetrimonium Chloride
Behentrimonium Chloride
~30
~85
DialkylVARISOFT 432 PPG
VARISOFT TA 100
Dicetyldimonium Chloride
Distearyldimonium Chloride
~70
~99
Esterquat
VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets
VARISOFT EQ 100
Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride; Cetearyl Alcohol
Quaternium-98 (proposed)
~65
~99
Imidazolinium VARISOFT W 575 PG Quaternium-87 ~75
Amidoquat VARISOFT PATC Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride ~60
Amidoamine TEGO Amid S 18 Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine ~99
Organmodified silicones
Silicone type Structure Trade name INCI name Conc. %
Silicone Quatcationic ABIL T Quat 60 Silicone Quaternium-22 ~65
Silicone Quat microemulsioncationic ABIL ME 45
Silicone Quaternium-22;Polygyceryl-3 Caprate; Dipropylene Glycol; Cocamidopropyl Betaine
~30
Silicone Quatcationic ABIL Quat 3272 Quaternium-80 ~50
Aminofunctional Silicone ABIL Soft AF 100 Methoxy PEG/PPG-7/3Aminopropyl Dimethicone ~99
Silicone Betaineamphoteric ABIL B 9950 Dimethicone Propyl PG-
Betaine ~30
Silicone UV Quatcationic ABIL UV Quat 50 Polysilicone-19 ~50
Alkyl Polyether Silicone
Conditioning agentsEvonik comprehensive portfolio of conditioning agents
n = 1 or 7N Cl
N XO
O
O R
RO
NN
R
N MeOSO3RH
O
(R = C15 - C17)
n = 1 or 3N Cl
N NH
ClO
N NH
O
NH2
UV abs.UV abs.
| 0706
Our best choice of products and their benefits for individual hair needs
Conditioning rinse Conditioning shampoo
Detangling, wet combability • VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets• VARISOFT EQ 100• VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets• VARISOFT 432 PPG
Synergistic combinations of organic quats plus• ABIL ME 45• ABIL T Quat 60
• ABIL ME 45• ABIL T Quat 60• ABIL Quat 3272• VARISOFT EQ 100
Wet feel • VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets• VARISOFT EQ 100• VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets• VARISOFT 432 PPG
Synergistic combinations of organic quats plus• ABIL ME 45• ABIL T Quat 60
• ABIL ME 45• ABIL T Quat 60• ABIL Quat 3272• VARISOFT EQ 100
Dry combability (improved) • VARISOFT TA 100• VARISOFT 432 PPG Synergistic combination of organic quats plus• ABIL ME 45
• ABIL ME 45• ABIL T Quat 60• ABIL Quat 3272
Dry combability (reduced = improvement of hold)
• VARISOFT W 575 PG• VARISOFT PATC• TEGO Amid S 18
• ABIL Soft AF 100
Dry feel • VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets• VARISOFT EQ 100• VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets• VARISOFT PATC
Synergistic combinations of organic quats plus• ABIL ME 45• ABIL T Quat 60
• ABIL ME 45• ABIL T Quat 60
Gloss / shine • ABIL ME 45• TEGO Amid S 18
Conditioning rinse Conditioning shampoo
Volume/body • TEGO Amid S 18• VARISOFT W 575 PG• ABIL Soft AF 100
• ABIL Soft AF 100• ABIL B 9950
Straightening/weighing down effect Elevated use levels of:• VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets• VARISOFT 432 PPG• VARISOFT EQ 100
Synergistic combinations of organic quats plus• ABIL ME 45• ABIL T Quat 60
• ABIL ME 45• VARISOFT EQ 100
Anti-fly-away/antistatic • VARISOFT W 575 PG• VARISOFT TA 100• VARISOFT 300• TEGO Amid S 18
• ABIL Soft AF 100
Style retention/anti-frizz • ABIL Soft AF 100 (reduced weighing down)• VARISOFT TA 100• VARISOFT 432 PPG• ABIL ME 45
• ABIL ME 45
Color care • VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets• ABIL ME 45• ABIL UV Quat 50
• ABIL ME 45• ABIL UV Quat 50• ABIL B 9950• ABIL T Quat 60
Heat protection • ABIL ME 45• ABIL T Quat 60
Anti hair breakage • ABIL ME 45• ABIL T Quat 60
• ABIL ME 45• ABIL T Quat 60
| 0908
Specialized hair careAs an innovative and reliable partner in hair care, Evonik Personal Care focuses on creating ingredients with superior features while maintaining consistent quality.
We set great value upon the effectiveness of our high-end products and we constantly work on developing new hair conditioning ingredients.
Based on profound expertise and qualified test methods, Evonik Personal Care has established a conditioner portfolio that addresses the following consumer needs:
→ Conditioning→ Color care→ UV protection→ Volume→ Anti hair breakage→ Heat protection→ Gloss
Conditioning
ABIL ME 45Premium conditioning
Test formula: shampoo9.0% Sodium Laureth Sulfate3.0% Cocamidopropyl Betaine0.2% PQ-10varying % a.m. Silicone Quat0.5% NaCl2.5% ANTIL 171ad 100% water, pH = 5.5
ABIL ME 45 shows excellent conditioning performance
Test formula: rinse0.5 % Ceteareth-202.0 % Cetyl Alcohol1.0 % active conditioning agentad 100% water, pH = 5
Best wet comb scoring for VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets
VARISOFT BT 85 PelletsExcellent conditioning
Wet combability - hair sensory results
Score difference to CTAC (%)
Control
VARISOFT 432 PPG
TEGO Amid S 18
VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets
VARISOFT W 575 PG
VARISOFT TA 100
VARISOFT PATC
VARISOFT 300 (CTAC)
-60 -40 -20 0 20 40
■ Statistically different to CTAC (Duncan Multiple Range Test)
| 1110
Sensory assessment – shampoo application
score (5=best)
Detangling
Wet comb
Wet feel
0 1 2 3 4
■ PQ-10 + 1.0% a.m. ABIL ME 45 ■ PQ-10 + 0.3% a.m. ABIL ME 45 ■ PQ-10 ■ Control
VARISOFT EQ 65 PelletsSustainable conditioning
VARISOFT EQ 100Premium sustainable conditioning
Test formula: rinse0.5% Ceteareth-255.0% Cetearyl Alcohol1.0% active Quatad 100% water, pH = 4.1
VARISOFT® EQ 100 outperforms Behentrimonium Chloride (BTAC)
Half-head test results (score difference) - VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets vs. CTAC
CTAC better VARISOFT® EQ 65 Pellets better
Rinseability
Wet comb
Wet feel
Dry comb
Dry feel
Curl retention
Shine
Body/volume
Antistatic
Managebility
Build-up directly
Build-up later
-1.0 -0.8 -0.6 -0.4 -0.2 0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1.0
Conducted externally by an independent test institute (2007)
Test formula: rinse0.5% Ceteareth-255.5% Cetearyl Alcohol2.0% active Quatad 100% water, pH = 4.5
VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets outperforms Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC)
Half-head test results (score difference) – VARISOFT® EQ 100 vs. BTAC
BTAC better VARISOFT® EQ 100 better
Skin feel
Rinseability
Skin feel after rinse
Detangling wet
Wet comb
Wet feel
Detangling dry
Dry comb
Dry feel
Curl retention
Shine
Body/volume
Antistatic
Managebility
Build-up directly
Build-up later
-1.0 -0.8 -0.6 -0.4 -0.2 0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1.0
Conducted externally by an independent test institute (06/14)
| 1312
Test formula: rinse0.5% Ceteareth-252.0% Cetyl Alcohol2.0% active conditioning agent (combination 1% + 1%)ad 100% water, pH = 4.0 +/- 0.3
ABIL Soft AF 100 compensates negative impact on volume caused by organic Quats
ABIL Soft AF 100Improved volume
Volume
Sensory assessment - volume/body
Control
Cetrimonium Chloride
Behentrimonium Chloride
Distearyldimonium Chloride
ABIL® Soft AF 100
Cetrimonium Chloride + ABIL® Soft AF 100
Behentrimonium Chloride + ABIL® Soft AF 100
Distearyldimonium Chloride + ABIL® Soft AF 100
0 1 2 3 4
score (5 = best)
Test formula: shampoo9.0% Sodium Laureth Sulfate3.0% Cocamidopropyl Betaine0.5% active Silicone Quat0.15% Cationic Quatad 100% water, pH = 5.5 +/- 0.2
Test formula: shampoo9.0% Sodium Laureth Sulfate3.0% Cocamidopropyl Betaine1.0% active Silicone Quat 0.2% Polyquaternium-100.5% NaCl2.5% ANTIL 171ad 100% water, pH = 5.5
ABIL UV Quat 50 and ABIL ME 45 improve the color wash fastness properties of shampoos.ABIL T Quat 60 provides good wash fastness
ABIL UV Quat provides up to 50% reduction in color fading
ABIL UV Quat 50, ABIL ME 45, ABIL T Quat 60Improved color wash fastness
ABIL UV Quat 50Color protection against UV fading
Color care
Color wash fastness – shampoo application
Color fading
20 x washing
15 x washing
10 x washing
5 x washing
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
ΔE-value (the smaller, the better)
■ ABIL UV Quat 50 ■ ABIL T Quat 60 ■ ABIL ME 45 ■ Control
Color fading measurements
Color fading after irridation with sun simulator
Control (Guar Quat)
ABIL UV Quat 50
0 1 2 3
ΔE-value (the smaller, the better)
Test formula: rinse0.5% Ceteareth-252.0% Cetyl Alcohol2.0% active Quatad 100% water, pH = 4.0 +/- 0.3
ABIL® UV Quat 50 provides approx. 40% protection against damaging UV light
ABIL UV Quat 50Excellent UV protection of hair fibers
UV protection
Tensile strength test results
Decrease of hair strength vs. undamaged hair, after irridation with sun simulator
Control CTAC
ABIL UV Quat 50
0 1 2 3 4 5
Δ-Load 15% (mN/mm2)
| 1514
Samba gloss measurements
Gloss improvement (%)
6
5 *
4
3
2
1
0UL 5737/5 w/o ABIL ME 45 UL 5737/5
* Statistically differerent to control (T-Test)
Hair breakage
Number of broken fibers after 10000 brushing strokes
120
100
80
60
40
20
0
Control shampoo Benchmark silicone emulsion shampoo
Silicone Quaternium-16
ABIL T Quat 60 shampoo
ABIL T Quat 60 conditioner
Mean Mean±SE Mean±SDConducted by external test institute (2012)
ABIL T Quat 60Reduced hair fiber breakage
ABIL ME 45Improved hair gloss
Test formula: shampoo9.0% Sodium Laureth Sulfate2.5% Cocamidopropyl Betaine1.0% active Silicone Quat0.3% PQ-101.0% Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride (VARISOFT PATC)0.9% REWODERM LI S 800.2% NaClad 100% water, pH = 5.5
Test formula: conditioner0.5% Ceteareth-255.0% Cetyl Alcohol1.0% active ABIL T Quat 60ad 100% water, pH = 4.5
Formulations containing ABIL T Quat 60 significantly reduce hair fiber breakage
Test formula: conditioner UL 5737/54.5% Cetearyl Alcohol3.0% Aminopropyl Dimethicone3.0% ABIL ME 451.0% Oleyl Erucate2.0% VARISOFT TA 100ad 100% water1.50% VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets2.0% Glycerin0.25% Citric Acid, 30%
ABIL ME 45 improves gloss significantly out of a conditioner application
Anti hair breakage
Heat protection
Gloss
ABIL ME 45Excellent heat protection
Test formula: rinse0.5% Ceteareth-255.0% Cetyl Alcohol1.0% CTAC 0.0/1.0% a.m. Silicone Quatad 100.0% water, pH = 4
ABIL® ME 45 provides significant heat protection (Ø 75%)
Heat protection – conditioning rinse
DSC measurement
ABIL ME 45 + CTAC
CTAC
145 147 149 151 153
Keratin denaturation temperature [°C]
■ 9x10 sec ■ 3x10 sec ■ blank, non straightened Treatment with flattening iron at 200°C
| 1716
Shampoo
Thick, coarse
Fine
Light conditioning Intensive conditioning
Increasing level of damage
Hai
r typ
e
Incr
easin
g us
age
leve
l [%
]
Hai
r typ
e
Incr
easin
g us
age
leve
l [%
]
Conditioning mapDegree of conditioning can be adjusted by usage concentration
VARISOFT 300VARISOFT PATC ABIL T Quat 60
VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets
TEGO Amid S 18VARISOFT W 575 PG
ABIL ME 45VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets
VARISOFT EQ 100
VARISOFT TA 100VARISOFT 432 PPG
ABIL Soft AF 100
VARISOFT PATC ABIL Quat 3272
ABIL T Quat 60
ABIL ME 45
ABIL Soft AF 100 ABIL B 9950
Conditioner
Thick, coarse
Fine
Light conditioning Intensive conditioning
Increasing level of damage
| 1918
Silicone conditioning agents
Physical properties Improvement of Suitable for
Product name INCI name Benefits Characteristics FormActive matter
[%] Wet comb Wet feel Dry comb Dry feel Volume GlossAntistatic
propertiesColor
protectionHeat
protectionUV
protection ConditionerConditioning
shampoo
Silicone derivatives
ABIL B 9950 Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine
- Hair color protection- Volume enhancer - Low thinning effect
Conditioning agent for shampoos. Softens and smoothes hair. Improves manageability.
Liquid ~30 ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯
ABIL Quat 3272 Quaternium-80 - Improved combability- Soft and smooth hair feel
Conditioning agent for clear shampoos and shower products. Clearly soluble and compatible with anionics. Pleasant skin feel. No build-up effect.
Liquid ~50 ▯▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯
ABIL Soft AF 100 Methoxy PEG/PPG-7/3 Aminopropyl Dimethicone
- Improved combability- Antistatic effect- Volume enhancer
Conditioning agent for shampoos and hair rinses. Self-emulsifying in aqueous systems. Improves synergistically volume properties of alkyl quats. Suitable for clear formulations. No build-up effect.
Liquid ~99 ▯ ▯ ▯▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯
ABIL T Quat 60 Silicone Quaternium-22 - Improved combability - Hair fiber protection- Hair heat protection
High performance conditioning agent with additional hair fiber protection properties. Low viscosity decreasing effect in surfactant formulas. Highly suitable for clear formulas. No build-up effect.
Liquid ~65 ▯▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯
ABIL UV Quat 50 Polysilicone-19 - Hair fiber protection- Hair UV protection- Hair color protection
Hair fiber protection against damage by UV light: reduced UV fading of dyed hair and reduced damage of hair. Suitable for clear formulations. No build-up effect.
Liquid ~50 ▯ ▯ ▯▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯
ABIL ME 45 Silicone Quaternium-22; Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate; Dipropylene Glycol; Cocamidopropyl Betaine
- Easy to process - Improved combability - Hair heat protection
Outstanding and intensive conditioning properties. Very easy to process microemulsion. Highly suitable for clear surfactant formulations. Highly effective at low concentrations. Liquid ~30 ▯▯▯ ▯▯▯ ▯▯ ▯▯▯ ▯ ▯▯ ▯▯▯ ▯ ▯
▯ Good test results ▯▯ Superior test results ▯▯▯ Best test results
| 2120
Organic conditioning agents
Physical properties Improvement of Suitable for
Product name INCI name Benefits Characteristics FormActive matter
[%] Wet comb Wet feel Dry comb Dry feel Volume GlossAntistatic
propertiesColor
protectionHeat
protectionUV
protection ConditionerConditioning
shampoo
Alkyl quats
VARISOFT 300 Cetrimonium Chloride - Improved combability- Antistatic effect- Cost-efficient
Universal conditioning agent. Water-dispersible.
Liquid ~30 ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯
VARISOFT 432 PPG Dicetyldimonium Chloride - Improved combability- Soft and smooth hair feel - Easy to process
Conditioning agent especially suitable for hair treatments. Contains Propylene Glycol. Water-dispersible. Liquid ~70 ▯▯ ▯▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯
VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets
Behentrimonium Chloride - Soft and smooth hair feel- Antistatic effect- Hair color protection
High performance conditioning agent. Excellent wet/dry feel and combing properties. Water-dispersible. Pellets ~85 ▯▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯ ▯
VARISOFT TA 100 Distearyldimonium Chloride - Soft and smooth hair feel- High active matter- Improved combability
Highly active conditioning agent and emulsifier for hair conditioners. Antistatic effect. Powder ~96 ▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯▯ ▯
Amide and ester derivatives
TEGO Amid S 18 Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
- Volume enhancer- Improved combability- Gloss enhancer
Conditioning agent and emulsifier for hair rinses and conditioners. Improves wet and dry comb properties. Provides increased body and volume. Flakes ~99 ▯▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯ ▯
VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets
Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride; Cetearyl Alcohol
- Improved combability- Soft and smooth hair feel- Rich appearance
Environmentally friendly conditioner with substantial biogradability. Primarily vegetable-based material. Pellets ~65 ▯▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯▯ ▯
VARISOFT EQ 100 Quaternium-98 (proposed) - Soft and smooth hair feel- Easy to process- Thickening effect in
shampoos
Excellent condtioning agent especially on wet hair providing superior manageability, lubricity and softness. Primarily vegetable-based material, readily biodegradable. Liquid ~100 ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯ ▯
VARISOFT PATC Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride
- Antistatic effect- Compatible with anionic
surfactant- Soft and smooth hair feel
Outstanding conditioning agent with excellent antistatic properties. Suitable for clear formulas. Provides thickening effect.
Soft paste ~60 ▯ ▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯ ▯
VARISOFT W 575 PG Quaternium-87 - Volume enhancer- Antistatic effect- Hair color protection
Improves wet and dry combability and provides increased body and volume. Primarily vegetable-based material. Water-dispersible. Liquid ~75 ▯ ▯ ▯▯ ▯▯ ▯ ▯
▯ Good test results ▯▯ Superior test results ▯▯▯ Best test results
| 2322
Formulation ideas
Conditioning rinse for long and fine hair1
Trade name w/w
A TEGINACID C (Ceteareth-25) 0.5%
TEGO Alkanol 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 3.0%
TEGO Amid S 18 (Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine) 0.7%
ABIL Soft AF 100 (Methoxy PEG/PPG-7/3 Aminopropyl Dimethicone) 0.7%
VARISOFT W 575 PG (Quaternium-87) 0.9%
B Propylene Glycol 1.0%
Water ad 100.0%
Citric Acid (20% sol. in water) 0.7%
Preservative, perfume q.s.
1UK 168/F/5
Processing
1. Heat phases A and B separately up to 65-70°C.2. Combine both phases and homogenize. 3. Cool down while stirring, add the perfume at approximately 40°C.
Benefits
Especially improves the volume and manageability of long and damaged hair.
Premium intensive conditioning hair mask for Asian hair1
Trade name w/w
A TEGO Alkanol 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 5.0%
Aminopropyl Dimethicone 5.0%
ABIL ME 45 (Silicone Quaternium-22; Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate; Dipropylene Glycol; Cocamidopropyl Betaine) 3.3%
TEGINACID C (Ceteareth-25) 0.5%
VARISOFT 442 100 P (Quaternium-18 ) 2.0%
B TEGOSOFT OER (Oleyl Erucate) 1.0%
Argan Oil (Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil) 1.0%
C Water ad 100.0%
TEGO Cosmo C 100 (Creatine) 1.0%
VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets (Behentrimonium Chloride ) 2.0%
VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets (Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride; Cetearyl Alcohol ) 2.0%
Citric Acid (30 % sol. in water) 0.3%
Preservative q.s.
Z Perfume „NUTRI“, fragrance resources 0.3%
1SV 188/6
Processing
1. Phase A: Blend ingredients and heat up to 70-75°C.2. Phase B: Dissolve the TEGO Cosmo C 100 carefully in the water. Add remaining ingredients. 3. Heat up to 80-85°C. The VARISOFT EQ 65 has to be melted.4. Combine phase A and phase B, homogenize for 1 minute, cool down while stirring.5. Add perfume and preservatives below 45°C.
Remarks
pH=5.0; Viscosity (Brookfield 25°C): 45000 mPas
Benefits
Heavy conditioning for thicker hair types (Asian, Ethnic), or strongly damaged hair.
| 2524
Formulation ideas
Cleansing conditioner/refatting conditioning shampoo (strongly damaged hair, afro-textured hair)1
Trade name w/w
A Water ad 100.0%
Polyquaternium-10 0.5%
Sodium Laureth Sulfate, 28% 10.7%
TEGO Betain F 50 (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) 7.9%
Glycerin 2.0%
B Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 50.0%
VARISOFT EQ 100 (Quaternium-98 (proposed)) 1.0%
C TEGO Sulfosuccinate DO 75 (Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate) 4.0%
Z Preservative, perfume q.s.
1UL 5761/67
Processing
1. Blend ingredients of phase A.2. Blend ingredients of phase B.3. Combine phase A and phase B, stirr sufficiently (approximately 20 minutes).4. Add TEGO Sulfosuccinate DO 75, stirr sufficiently (30 minutes).
Important
Avoid air entrapment
Remarks
pH=5.8; Viscosity (Brookfield 25°C): 7000 mPas
Benefits
2-in-1: intensive conditioning and refatting effect plus cleansing and foaming.
Intensive conditioner with strengthening property forrelaxed hair (afro-textured, mulatto hair)1
Trade name w/w
Water ad 100.0%
TEGO® Cosmo C 100 (Creatine) 1.0%
Glycerin 2.0%
VARISOFT® BT 85 Pellets (Behentrimonium Chloride) 2.0%
ABIL® ME 45 (Silicone Quaternium-22; Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate; Dipropylene Glycol; Cocamidopropyl Betaine) 1.7%
TEGO® Alkanol 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 5.0%
Preservative, perfume q.s.
Citric Acid (30% sol. in water) 0.3%
1RB13-5802-102
Processing
One-phase production:1. Combine ingredients, heat to 75°C and homogenize.2. Cool while stirring. 3. Add preservatives and adjust pH to 4.5.
Remarks
Viscosity (Brookfield 25°C): 7000 mPas
Benefits
Formulation offers outstanding conditioning properties, while improving hair strength and feel of damaged hair.
| 2726
Evonik Industries AG Personal Care Goldschmidtstraße 100 45127 Essen GermanyP.O. Box, 45116 Essen Phone +49 201 173-2854 fax +49 201 173-712854 [email protected] www.evonik.com/personal-care