Japan

Ta i l o r - m a d e J o u r n e y s f o r T h e d i s c e r n i n g T r av e l l e r

3Introduction

Contents

Introduction 2-5

Central Japan 6-21

Families in Japan 12

Ryokans 15

Walking in Japan 18

Food 22-23

Southern Japan 24-35

Japanese Seasons 34

Northern Japan 36-42

Useful information 43

Introducing Audley

My experience of Japan is that of exquisite cuisine, modern technological marvels, exceptional

hospitality and staggering mountain scenery, yet I know that I have barely scratched the surface.

Travelling from ultra-modern Tokyo with its towering skyscrapers and frenetic energy to the peaceful

gardens and temples of Kyoto gives just a glimpse of the diversity Japan has to offer. Beyond the cities

you find astonishingly beautiful scenery, both gentle and dramatic, where charming traditional ryokan

inns provide a timeless welcome and a serene atmosphere.

Japan’s complex and, at times, turbulent history has left its mark on the landscape in the form of ancient

castles, temples and villages, samurai strongholds and museums, and of course, the monuments that

commemorate the terrible legacy of the atomic bombs in World War II.

Our team of Japan specialists have a passion for everything Japanese and can advise you on the best

local festivals to attend, which of the rather unusual delicacies to try, or where to find an unforgettable

hot spring onsen bathing experience. This brochure is a collection of their favourite places to visit

across the country. I hope that their enthusiasm inspires you to travel here.

Dear Traveller

It was a trip around Asia in the early 1990s that

ignited Craig Burkinshaw’s passion for travel.

On his return he was so keen to share his

experiences that he founded Audley, or Asian

Journeys as we were then called. We offered a

new type of travel – individual journeys, designed

to match the traveller’s interests, tastes and

budget, created with an absolute commitment

to quality and authenticity. Today this desire to

share authentic travel experiences is

undiminished and Audley is one of the UK’s

most highly regarded specialist tour operators,

providing tailor-made trips throughout Asia,

Africa, the Middle East, Latin America,

Australasia, North America, Antarctica and

the Arctic.

Tailor-made journeys

The beauty of tailor-made travel is that every

trip is unique. Whether you want to stay in

simple or luxurious accommodation, have great

guides on hand or explore under your own

steam, travel for one week or five, we can create

a trip to match your tastes and budget. We can

also design trips for a special occasion, whether

this is a spectacular honeymoon or milestone

anniversary. Throughout the brochure you will

find suggested itineraries and some of our

favourite places to stay, but these are all just for

inspiration as each trip is created uniquely for

you and there are many more options available.

Specialist knowledge

Our Japan specialists have all travelled extensively

throughout the country and in many cases lived

there, so you can rely on their in-depth,

first-hand knowledge. They regularly return

to discover new hidden gems, stay in the

accommodation and meet our guides – many of

whom are firm friends – as well as experience all

the excursions and activities. We believe this is

the only way that we can genuinely offer you a

tailor-made service and enable you to

experience a side of Japan that others might miss.

Planning your trip

Speaking to one of our specialists is the best way

to start planning your trip, whether you already

know where you want to go or just have the

seed of an idea. They can discuss your plans,

offer advice and give you ideas and inspiration

for your trip, before creating a detailed itinerary,

which will be forwarded to you together with

maps, accommodation descriptions and a price.

The same specialist will then refine the plans

until you are completely satisfied and will be on

hand to answer questions from your very first

telephone call until you return from your trip.

Financial security

All travel arrangements in this brochure that

include a flight from the UK are ATOL protected

by the Civil Aviation Authority. Our ATOL

number is 4817. Those package arrangements

which are not protected by ATOL are covered

by ABTOT, the Association of Bonded Travel

Organisers Trust. Please see our booking

conditions for more information or visit

www.audleytravel.com/protect

Fushimi Inari Shrine, Nara

Craig Burkinshaw, Founder

Audley in Japan

To many first-time visitors Japan can, at times,

seem intimidatingly ‘foreign’. Whilst this

difference is one of the country’s most appealing

aspects, it can also cause potential practical

difficulties, compounded by the higher than usual

cost of private transport and guides. It is

therefore essential to have your trip planned by

someone who knows the country intimately as

they can use their knowledge to help make Japan

an easier place to discover, and can talk you

through the precise details of your daily itinerary.

We recommend making use of Japan’s

fantastically efficient rail network to travel

around the country, combining this with carefully

selected private and small group excursions to

help you to get your bearings and make the most

of your time here. Your accommodation will be

hand-picked according to your taste and budget,

with your Japan specialist choosing from our

personally researched selection of hotels and

traditional ryokan inns.

Wherever possible, we recommend having a

guide for at least a short space of time. In Tokyo

and Kyoto there are numerous guides and here

we suggest exploring certain parts of the cities

with the benefit of their local knowledge. Kyoto

also has its own Women’s Association, which

provides cultural experiences on either a private

or shared basis. Elsewhere in the country, guides

are harder to come by and are consequently

even more expensive than in the cities. However,

we can arrange guides in a number of different

locations and in other places there is a network

of excellent volunteer guides that we can put

you in touch with.

Thanks to our thorough knowledge of the

country, we are able to provide you with advice

on anything from where to go, to handy tips on

what to expect and how to make the most of

your time in Japan. Our approach ensures that

from your first phone call you will talk to an

expert whose first-hand knowledge and detailed

planning will provide you with all the support

required to experience the real Japan.

Local customs & etiquette

Japanese manners and customs are vastly

different from those of the Western world and a

strict code of behaviour is recognised and

followed by most people in Japan. However, the

Japanese are aware of these cultural differences

and therefore do not expect visitors to be

familiar with all customs, although formal and

polite behaviour is expected. When entering a

Japanese home or restaurant it is customary to

remove shoes. Usually the point at which this

should occur is very clearly marked by a raised

step and a rack where shoes are exchanged for

indoor slippers. Use the slippers provided, but

remember to swap into special bathroom

slippers when necessary. Forgetting to swap back

can be embarrassing, but will almost certainly

happen at least once during your stay!

You can largely apply the principle of ‘when in

Rome…’ to eating etiquette. Sometimes you’ll be

surprised by the slurping of your neighbours,

while elsewhere, dining habits appear more

formal. The principal thing to avoid, in common

with most of northern Asia, is leaving your

chopsticks sticking up vertically from your rice

bowl. This is reminiscent of the incense burnt for

the dead and is considered bad form.

JapanExperience

4

TRAvEllIng InTO TOKYO can feel like an assault on the senses with vast buildings, bright lights,

crowded streets and the smells of delicious but bizarre foods wafting from street stalls. Explore

beyond this overwhelming first impression however, and you’re faced with a delightfully serene and

welcoming country, brimming with astounding landscapes, countless cultural icons and a fascinating

history, all ready to be discovered. Matched by a superb cuisine and marvellously polite people,

travellers simply cannot fail to be awed by the sheer wealth of experiences on offer in Japan.

Sumo wrestling, Kokugikan Sumo Hall, Tokyo

Jodogahama Beach, Miyako Island

Food stall, Tokyo

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ShiretokoNational Park

0 100 miles

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Regions of Japan

For the purpose of this brochure we have

broadly split Japan into three sections. Central

Japan covers central and western Honshu;

Southern Japan encompasses the smaller

southerly islands of Kyushu and Shikoku as well

as the sub-tropical island chain of Okinawa; while

northern Japan covers the northerly island of

Hokkaido as well as the northern part of

Honshu, known as Tohoku.

Getting around

Since you will travel around independently, we

aim to provide all-inclusive information to aid you

on your travels. Prior to your departure we will

send you a full information pack to enable you to

get the most out of your time in the country.

This will include a detailed train schedule for

your journeys, hotel addresses and place names

(written in both English and Japanese) to help

you get around, comprehensive suggestions and

directions for your free time, as well as maps and

pamphlets about the areas you are visiting, and

more general information about the country.

We also recommend our favourite restaurants,

plus those recommended to us by past clients.

501993 838 210 • Introduction

Daibutsu Buddha, Kamakura

Mount Aso, Kyushu

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HakoneNational Park

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7www.audleytravel.com/japan • 01993 838 210 • Central Japan

1 TokyoExperience the frenetic energy

of Japan’s contrasting capital,

from crowded, brightly lit

streets to sleepy hidden

temples.

See pages 8-9

2 TsumagoFor a slice of bygone Japan visit

this quiet village in the unspoilt

Kiso Valley.

See page 17

3 Crow Castle, MatsumotoA striking black and white,

multi-tiered historic stronghold.

See page 16

4 YudanakaWatch the macaques bathing in

the hot spring waters, and try

an onsen (hot spring)

experience of your own.

See page 19

5 Japanese AlpsSoak up the fresh mountain air,

spectacular scenery and

picturesque towns.

See pages 16-17

6 Kenrokuen Garden, KanazawaOne of the finest examples of

landscaped gardens in Japan.

See page 19

7 Cultural KyotoSearch out ancient temples,

peaceful gardens and the

elusive geisha.

See pages 10-11

8 Mount KoyaExperience Buddhist

hospitality in this mountainside

monastic complex.

See page 14

9 The ‘floating’ torii gate, Miyajima IslandAn iconic sacred structure,

especially picturesque as the

sun goes down.

See page 14

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Jizo statue, Mount Koya Japanese macaque, Yudanaka

Kenrokuen Garden, Kanazawa

Central Japan

Audley in Central Japan

The majority of our trips are based in

Central Japan as all the major sights can be

easily accessed, and travelling around is

relatively straightforward. To help you get

the most out of your time in each area we

plan your trip to match your interests and

can combine the well-known highlights of

the region with more unusual experiences,

such as taking part in a tea ceremony with

the ladies of the Women’s Association of

Kyoto, or embarking on a food-orientated

walking tour. In most instances you will travel

independently using the highly efficient rail

system, but we provide detailed notes to

smooth the way.

Where private guiding is an option we

choose from a small group of professional

local guides who can provide greater insight

into Japan’s fascinating history and culture.

Accommodation

In this part of Japan accommodation varies

from Western-style international and

business hotels through to charming ryokan

inns, and we pride ourselves on being able

to recommend a variety of hand-picked

throughout your stay.

MAny OF JApAn’S hIghlIghTS can be found in the central and western areas of honshu, a

region that amply demonstrates the country’s wonderful fusion of ancient and modern. Tokyo’s

boundless energy is a magnificent contrast to the rich heritage and culture of Kyoto, which has held fast

through the centuries. Central Japan also offers a great variety of landscapes, from some of the largest

and most densely populated cities in the world to glorious mountain scenery, where rural village life

prevails. peaceful temples and manicured gardens are set amid bustling streets and jutting skyscrapers,

and provide a retreat from the hectic cities. Only a bullet train ride away from the key cities of Tokyo,

Kyoto and hiroshima lie the Japanese Alps with their boundless hiking and skiing opportunities. In

honshu you can also find wildlife, with Japanese macaques bathing in the hot springs of yudanaka and

tame deer wandering the parkland of nara. Some of Japan’s most admired gardens and temples can also

be found in this region, and in every city, town or village the cuisine is exquisite.

8

Street in Shinjuku, Tokyo

Tokyo

A thronging, thriving city whose various districts

each have their own distinct character, Tokyo

will bewilder your senses and confound your

preconceptions. At first glance it is the very

essence of stylish innovation, teeming with

modern technology and almost palpable energy.

However, if you care to delve deeper, you’ll

find carefully maintained pockets of heritage

and tradition, a source of much pride for locals.

This delicate balance of ancient culture and

cutting-edge modernity makes Tokyo a gloriously

diverse city, where towering skyscrapers loom

over expertly tended parks and ramshackle

eateries nestled in narrow alleyways beneath

train tracks. Easily navigated by the ultra-efficient

metro system, Tokyo can be explored either on

your own with our detailed notes, or with a

private guide. Some of our favourite areas of the

city include Shinjuku, Asakusa, Akihabara,

Harajuku, Ginza and Tokyo Bay.

Shinjuku

Take an evening stroll through the Shinjuku

district and every preconceived image of modern

Japan will be there to greet you: overwhelming

crowds decked out in the wildest fashions, lofty

skyscrapers, flashing neon, and all the noise and

excitement that typifies Tokyo, perhaps the

world’s ultimate metropolis. Urbane,

cosmopolitan and globally aware, Shinjuku is best

known for its bustling streets, bright lights and its

phenomenally busy train station. However,

beyond this brilliant chaos is the peaceful haven

of Shinjuku Gyoen Park, one of Tokyo’s largest

gardens, and two excellent observatories 202

metres above the ground in the Metropolitan

Government Buildings.

Asakusa

Asakusa offers a glimpse into Tokyo’s historical

heart, and is home to the much visited and

photographed Buddhist Senso-ji Temple, which is

marked by an enormous red lantern hanging at

its entrance gate. The district is at the centre of

Tokyo’s shitamachi (low town), which was the

heart of ancient Edo, and an atmosphere of past

decades still prevails here. Discover Asakusa’s

relaxed and relatively quiet streets by rickshaw

or walk across the Sumida River to Tokyo’s

newest skyline addition the 634 metre tall

Tokyo Skytree.

Akihabara & Harajuku

Tokyo’s ‘youth culture’ districts, Akihabara and

Harajuku embrace the modern, the whacky and

the innovative. Otherwise known as Electric City,

Akihabara is the place to go for anything

electronic and is famed among Japanese and

foreigners alike for its wealth of noisy and

animated gadget shops. Harajuku, also home to

the historic Meiji Jingu Shrine which provides an

oasis of calm in this energetic city, plays host to

groups of creatively attired teens, out to rebel

against conventional Japanese conformity.

Senso-ji Temple, Asakusa

Shinjuku Gyoen Park, Shinjuku

xx9www.audleytravel.com/japan • 01993 838 210 • Central Japan

Priests entering the Meiji Jingu Shrine, HarajukuMonk collecting alms, Ginza

Ceremonial drums, Tokyo

Ginza

Home to the emperor and his family, the grand

and expansive Imperial Palace sits regally in the

midst of Tokyo’s most up-market district.

Michelin starred eateries and designer boutiques

vie for space on Ginza’s streets, a district where

deluxe consumerism reigns supreme. This part of

the city first flourished as an area of ‘civilisation

and enlightenment’, then later became home to

trend-setting newspapers and magazines, and

with every major luxury brand gracing its streets

its influence on fashion and style continues today.

Nearby Tsukiji has the largest fish market in Japan

where huge tuna are carved and sushi counters

abound. This sits next to the beautiful Hamarikyu

Gardens with unique tidal seawater ponds.

Tokyo Bay

With wide, open boulevards, a theme park and

numerous fascinating museums, Tokyo Bay is the

city’s playground. Daring architectural creations

line the streets and play host to, or are

surrounded by, enough entertainment

opportunities to fill weeks of exploration. On the

man-made Odaiba Island, built in the Edo period

to protect Japan from invasion, sits the Sega

Joypolis, Japan’s largest game centre with action

rides and virtual reality games. Tokyo Mega Web

exhibits all Toyota’s finest creations, many in

theme park attraction style, while Asimo, the

Honda robot, is one of the star attractions of

the Miraikan Museum of Emerging Science and

Innovation. At sunset, the giant Ferris wheel is a

fantastic place from which to view Tokyo’s

skyline.

Conrad Tokyo, Tokyo BayClose to the Hamarikyu Gardens and Tsukiji

Fish Market is the Conrad Tokyo, a luxurious and

contemporary retreat. Its 290 guest rooms and

suites are all decorated in modern, minimalist

Japanese style, while its five restaurants and bars

offer excellent and varied cuisine. There are also

fantastic panoramic views from the top floors.

Mandarin Oriental Hotel, GinzaOne of Tokyo’s most deluxe hotels, the Mandarin

Oriental offers the finest luxury with several

award-winning restaurants, an excellent spa

complex, and fantastic views across the cityscape

of downtown Tokyo. The hotel’s 178 spacious,

well-equipped rooms and suites blend Japanese

tradition with contemporary design.

Odaiba Island, Tokyo Bay Conrad Tokyo, Toyko Bay

Hamarikyu Gardens, Asakusa Snack stall, Tokyo

Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Ginza

10

An apprentice geisha’s ‘okobo’ shoes, Kyoto

Kyoto

For many centuries Kyoto was Japan’s capital and

to this day it retains the nation’s greatest cultural

treasures and a glorious concentration of historic

buildings. It is a city of grand palaces, ornate

shrines and exquisite gardens, mercifully spared

from the World War II bombing that razed other

Japanese cities. However, Kyoto has not stood

still, and this is undeniably a modern city, where

pockets of ancient Japan linger and kimono-clad

geisha still shuffle along narrow, lamp-lit streets.

We have sought out some of Japan’s finest

ryokans to allow you to experience their magical

atmosphere and to ensure that your visit to

Kyoto is one of the highlights of your time in

Japan. Such is the wealth of attractions in Kyoto

that we recommend at least a few days here to

soak it all in.

Torii gates, Fushimi Inari Shrine, near Kyoto

GeishaThe image of a geisha dressed in a fine silk

kimono and teetering on wooden geta

sandals is one of the most iconic, yet

perhaps most misunderstood, symbols of

Japan. Scores of books have been written

about the elusive world of the geisha and

many hundreds of photographers have tried

to capture the beauty and grace of the

women. Numerous films have also been

made depicting the stories of refined

teahouse entertainment, strict okiya training

houses and, of course, the love, lust and

romance that have long been associated

with the geisha community.

In their 1920s heyday, there were more than

80,000 geisha in Japan. Today, based mostly

in Kyoto’s hanamachi districts (literally

‘flower towns’), there are fewer than

2,000. Geisha attend private functions,

entertaining both male and female guests

and can be seen scuttling between

appointments in the Gion district every

evening. They can also be seen performing

traditional dances at exclusive restaurants

around the city or at luxury ryokans,

although these private engagements come

with a high price tag. A far more accessible

way to see geisha is to take an evening walk

around Gion with our guide, who has been

working with Audley since 2005, to help

shed some light on the elusive and

mysterious world of the geisha as well as

other aspects of Japanese culture.

xx11www.audleytravel.com/japan • 01993 838 210 • Central Japan

Yoshikawa Ryokan, Kyoto

Yoshikawa Ryokan, KyotoWith rooms furnished in traditional style and

overlooking an exquisite garden, Yoshikawa

Ryokan in Kyoto is one of a small group of much

sought-after Japanese inns. The atmosphere is

intimate and the experience highly authentic.

Your plump futon bed will be laid out in the

evening and then removed in the morning by

your maid. The attached tempura restaurant is

well-known for its delicious fare which should

certainly not be missed.

Bronze Buddha, Todai-ji Temple, Nara

Nara

A short train ride from Kyoto is historic Nara, an

earlier capital. While Kyoto’s continuing

eminence over the centuries has led to its

development into a large, bustling city, the

significance of Nara soon waned once the capital

was relocated, and today it is a relaxed town

with some beautiful sights. Nara residents are

justifiably proud of the Todai-ji Temple, which

houses Japan’s largest bronze Buddha, as well as

the tranquil park that surrounds it where the

sacred deer are so unafraid of people that they

will eat food out of your hand. Nara can easily

be visited as a day trip from Kyoto or as an

overnight stay for those with more time.

Between Kyoto and Nara sits Fushimi, well-

known for its spectacular Fushimi-inari Shrine.

The shrine is the most important of the 40,000

Inari-jinja shrines and worshippers have donated

the red torii (shrine gates) that line the path to

the entrance.

Kyoto’s gardensKyoto developed as the political, religious

and cultural capital of Japan and the

emperors, samurai and aristocrats who built

lavish residences here surrounded them with

equally impressive gardens. The sheer

volume of highly attractive landscaped

spaces, and the variety of historical designs

and styles, means that of all places in Japan,

Kyoto is the crowning glory for those

interested in the country’s gardens.

The earliest gardens were heavily influenced

by those in the imperial courts of China and

featured a strong emphasis on water, islands

and bridges. Zen gardens, which were

designed to provide a contemplative setting

in which to meditate, emerged in the early

Kamakura period (1185-1333) although it

was not until some time later that the

well-recognised karesansui (dry gravel)

gardens consisting of stones and raked

gravel were created. Often built around

Zen temples, these gardens were usually

intended to be admired from a fixed point

outside their walls such as a seat at the

chief monk’s residence.

By the 17th century, stroll gardens had

become popular. These were carefully

constructed to lead visitors down a

prescribed route to first hide and then reveal

specific vantage points, all in a particular

order. Later in the 19th century a creeping

Western influence and softening of the rigid

garden design rules became more apparent,

while towards the middle of the 20th century

(the Showa period) elements of modern art

started to be introduced into gardens.

Kyoto is one of the places where you can

see examples of all these styles of garden and

for this reason, attracts visitors from around

the world.

Kinkaku-ji Temple garden complex

South garden, Kodai-ji Temple

12

One of the many draws of Japan is that it has

so much to appeal to visitors of all ages, not

least children. Tokyo itself has entire districts

which seem designed for the entertainment of

younger visitors: the electric Akihabara selling

all the latest technology, the trendy shopping

mecca of Shibuya, and the youth culture

dominated Harajuku to name but a few. With

the plethora of entertainment opportunities

available in the large cities, the brilliant legacy

of anime artists and directors, and any

number of interactive experiences as you

travel around the country, there is something

to delight children and teenagers

of any age. Here we suggest some of our

favourite activities for families.

Hakone National Park, near TokyoOne of Japan’s finest national parks, you can

do a full circuit of its sights by first taking a

small train and then a funicular railway to the

top of Mount Kami. Here, you alight at

Owakudani, the Great Boiling Valley, and take

a walk through the bubbling sulphur vents

where you can try one of the famous black

eggs, cooked in the heat of the natural

thermal activity. The route continues by cable

car, providing some lovely views across Lake

Ashi, before disembarking to board one of the

pirate-style sightseeing ships across the lake.

Manga magazines

Families in Japan

Sumo wrestling, Kokugikan Sumo Hall, Tokyo Ghibli Museum, Tokyo

Sightseeing ship on Lake Ashi, Hakone National Park

Ninja Restaurant, TokyoA visit here will certainly be a very different

and interesting meal out as you’ll be served by

waiters dressed as ninjas who sneak silently

through the maze of corridors of the Japanese

castle styled interior. The menu is ninja

themed, with dishes such as ‘Ninja style grilled

lobster’ and ‘Japanese beef tenderloin steak,

feudal lord style’.

Samurai experience, KyotoJapan has long been known for its traditional

arts, an intrinsic part of Japanese life, building

on morals, education and resilience. Kembu or

the way of the sword, incorporates the way a

sword is held and used in combat, and equally

the thought process to mentally achieve this

ability to fight, as the samurai once did.

Ghibli Museum, TokyoStudio Ghibli is Japan’s premier animation

studio, boasting internationally renowned

movies such as Princess Mononoke, Howl’s

Moving Castle and Spirited Away, created by

Hayao Miyazaki, who is often referred to as

the Walt Disney of Japan. Full of magical

exhibitions, artwork and explorable sets, the

Ghibli Museum is a fantasy land of delight

and wonder.

Tokyo Mega Web Museum, TokyoThis giant Toyota museum featuring all of the

company’s latest models and technologies

includes showrooms with many interactive

exhibits for all the family; from driving

simulation cars to participating in a virtual

reality drive.

Sumo wrestling tournament, TokyoWatching this highly ritualised, ancient sport

of wrestling matches between enormous,

near naked men is a fascinating experience.

These titanic clashes can be watched at one

of six tournaments held each year, three of

which are based in Tokyo’s Kokugikan Sumo

Hall. We can arrange visits to various sumo

‘stables’ where the wrestlers live and train, or

tickets to one of the exciting tournaments.

13www.audleytravel.com/japan • 01993 838 210 • Central Japan

View of Mount Fuji

Daibutsu Buddha, Kamakura

Hakone Ginyu, Hakone

Nikko & Kamakura

Only a couple of hours north of the capital, the

small mountain town of Nikko feels like another

world. Here, beneath the cool cedars, stands the

magnificent Toshogu Shrine, mausoleum to the

first and greatest Tokugawa Shogun on whom

James Clavell based his famous novel ‘Shogun’.

The superb carvings of the shrine, including the

original ‘see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil’

monkey carvings, are complemented by the

beautiful mountain setting. After a thorough

exploration of the shrine precinct we

recommend heading up the hairpin bends to

enjoy the fine scenery of Lake Chuzenji and the

Kegon Waterfall.

For Tokyo-ites the tranquil seaside town of

Kamakura, which lies just an hour south of the

city, is a favourite getaway far from the hustle

and bustle of daily life. Dotted with secluded

shrines and temples – remnants of the town’s

brief halcyon days as capital of the nation –

Kamakura is also home to the 13 metre high

Daibutsu Buddha, which was cast in situ in the

13th century in bronze and stands within the

grounds of Kotoku-in Temple.

Mount Fuji & Hakone National Park

Head west from Tokyo and the land immediately

becomes more mountainous, offering beautiful

alpine views and some fantastic locations for hot

spring bathing. Hakone National Park, home to

volcanic scenery, picturesque Lake Ashi and an

excellent open-air museum, is perhaps the finest

of these. Towering above the whole park is the

majestic Mount Fuji, whose iconic snow-capped

peak has been portrayed in countless works of

Japanese art and literature. In Japan, it is said that

‘a wise man climbs Fuji-san once in his life, but

only a fool climbs it twice’. Sadly, Fuji is often

cloud-bound, leading us to believe that the wisest

of all men simply relax at a ryokan in the park

instead. With luck you will be able to catch a

glimpse of Fuji’s snow-capped summit from the

comfort of a hot spring. It is possible to climb

Mount Fuji for a short window during July

and August.

Hakone Ginyu, HakoneThis property is one of the finest examples of a

traditional ryokan anywhere in Japan, with hints

of Balinese design and an emphasis on subtle and

discreet elegance. The inn offers a luxurious

setting in which to relax and you will leave feeling

pampered in every way. The ryokan is also a

noted spa resort and one of our favourite hot

spring inns in Japan with all the baths fed by the

mineral-rich thermal water from the Mount

Fuji region.

Shinkyo Bridge, Nikko

Sculpture in Hakone open-air museum

14

‘Floating’ torii gate, Miyajima Island

Hiroshima

Beneath an arched cenotaph in Hiroshima’s

Peace Memorial Park a flame burns, waiting to be

extinguished once the world is finally rid of

nuclear weapons. Close by, thousands of paper

cranes, a symbol of health and longevity, are

spread in silent protest around the poignant

Children’s Peace Memorial. The modern city is,

however, fully revitalised after the tragedies of

World War II, and it is easy to discover its lively

and energetic core. The wide, tree lined avenues

and reconstructed castle make Hiroshima an

attractive city, while the historic Shukkei-en

Garden and the Hiroshima Prefectural Art

Museum are interesting to explore.

Miyajima Island

A short ferry ride from Hiroshima is the peaceful

island of Miyajima, renowned for the great red

‘floating’ torii gate set in the picturesque

Itsukushima Bay. Considered by the Japanese to

be one of their three great sights, Miyajima is a

must for any visitor to this part of the country.

The small town has a pleasant, relaxed

atmosphere, particularly in the evenings and

early mornings once the day trippers have

returned to the mainland. There are several

other smaller temples and shrines dotted around

the island that are well worth a visit and the

530 metre high Mount Misen offers great views

from its summit.

Mount Koya

High in the forested mountains of the Kii

Peninsula, south of Osaka, lies the monastic

complex of Mount Koya, the home of the

esoteric Shingon Buddhist sect. A UNESCO

World Heritage Site, the town contains more

than a hundred different temples, many of which

offer lodging for pilgrims and visitors, where you

share the monks’ delicious vegetarian cuisine, and

experience a very different aspect of Japanese

society. Take a stroll at dusk along the winding,

lantern-lit paths through the Okuno-in Cemetery

for a uniquely atmospheric experience. Other

temples across Japan offer similar opportunities

to stay and join in with the monastic life; please

speak to our specialists for more information.

Tentoku-in Shukubo, Mount KoyaThe accommodation here was originally

designed for the Buddhist monks and pilgrims

who visited the temple for training or worship,

but is now open to members of the public.

The food served is shojin, which is vegetarian in

accordance with Buddhist practices. Rooms are

quite small and basic, but quaintly Japanese in

style with tatami flooring and sliding rice paper

doors. Some of the 48 guest rooms have views

over the superb Japanese garden at the centre of

the temple which is now accredited as a

UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Genbaku Dome, Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park

Tentoku-in Shukubo, Mount Koya

15www.audleytravel.com/japan • 01993 838 210 • Ryokans

Japan offers international-style hotels of all

standards, from excellent value business

hotels to the finest five star accommodation.

However, we recommend that at least one

night be spent sampling the unique hospitality

offered at a traditional ryokan (pronounced

ree-oh-kan) inn. These can vary from homely

guesthouses to the sublime sophistication of

Kyoto’s finest establishments, but all share the

same devotion to excellent service and warm

hospitality. A ryokan is far more than just a

place to lay your head for the night – we

guarantee that your stay will become one of

the defining experiences of your time in Japan.

The experienceWhen you arrive at the ryokan, you’ll enter

through the main door where you’ll be

greeted with a bow by the attentive staff.

It is customary to remove your shoes at the

entrance and wear a pair of slippers, which

are provided, inside. Let your host show you

what to do – they won’t be expecting you to

be experts in traditional etiquette.

Fundamental to the ryokan is the elegant

tatami-mat style of room. Every inch of space

is used wisely and your maid will lay your

futon out each night and clear it away in the

morning to give you maximum space. You’ll

notice a cotton yukata robe next to the low

table in your room or in the futon cupboard.

This is to take to the shared bathing facility

known as the ofuro. It is highly recommended

to take a soak in the ofuro before bedtime, as

the hot, thermal waters will soak away any

aches and pains and help you sleep.

Ryokan cuisineDinner will most likely be included as part of

your accommodation. Meals in ryokan inns

can be a little daunting, but offer the

opportunity to sample authentic traditional

Japanese cuisine as it was intended. Both

breakfast and dinner will be at set times and,

depending on the type of inn, may be served

to you in your room.

Japanese breakfast consists of several small

plates of food including miso soup, rice, grilled

fish, pickles and dried seaweed. Dinner is a

grander affair, typically consisting of up to

seven or eight small courses. Beginning with

an assortment of appetisers, the meal

progresses with sashimi (sliced raw fish), a

cooked fish and/or meat dish, tofu, pickles,

rice and fruit. All ingredients will be seasonal

and you will receive a different variation on

the meal each day of your stay. You may well

not recognise all the ingredients or dishes but

everything on offer will be local and fresh, and

of course you are under no obligation to eat

anything that you don’t like.

Iwaso Ryokan, Miyajima Island

Ryokans

Tawaraya Ryokan, Kyoto

Breakfast at Tentoku-in Shukubo Ryokan, Mount Koya

Onsen, Gora Kadan, Hakone

16

View over Azusagawa River, Kamikochi

Japanese Alps

The Japanese Alps are a series of mountain

ranges, the Hida, Kiso and Akaishi, which run

along the spine of central Honshu. Forested

mountains, snow-capped peaks and wonderful

vistas are what you can expect here, with several

small, picturesque villages dotted about the

mountains. You’ll find larger towns in the valleys

which in the winter become lively ski bases.

There are several hiking trails throughout the

Japanese Alps, the most famous of which is the

Nakasendo Highway.

Matsumoto

A small but cosmopolitan city on the edge of the

Japanese Alps, Matsumoto’s history dates back to

the 8th century. It is, however, most famous for

its fine castle, built in 1595 and known as Crow

Castle because of its striking black and white

design. Although much of the city is modern, you

can still find traditional lattice-patterned buildings

in the old merchant district. Most of these are

now craft shops, teahouses or restaurants, and

there are also some excellent museums to

explore. Considered to be the gateway to the

Japanese Alps, Matsumoto is situated within

striking distance of some of the region’s best

winter and summer outdoor activities.

Takayama & Shirakawago

Surrounded by the snow-capped peaks of the

northern Japanese Alps, the historic Sanmachi

district of Takayama possesses a charming

old-world atmosphere and some fine Edo period

architecture. East of the Miwagawa River these

streets have a hidden charm and give way to a

warren of traditional shops, museums, galleries

and sake breweries. The area has a wonderful

character made more special by its rarity in a

country that has otherwise embraced the

modern age. Takayama is very popular however,

and receives a high number of visitors each year,

which has led to the loss of some of its charm.

Highlights of the region are the spring and

autumn festivals, when impressive floats are

paraded through the streets to the sound of

taiko drumming and singing.

Nearby, hidden in deep mountain valleys, is the

UNESCO World Heritage Village of Shirakawago,

home to the few remaining traditional mountain

farmhouses in the gassho-zukuri style, typified by

thatched, steeply slanting roofs.

Kamikochi

A haven of unspoiled nature, framed by the snow-

capped Japanese Alps and the blue glacial waters

of the Azusagawa River which carves through the

valley. Kamikochi is the perfect place to stretch

your legs with both easy walks along the river and

some of the country’s most exhilarating mountain

treks. Particularly striking during autumn when

the foliage is at its most vivid, Kamikochi is often

considered one of the most beautiful places in the

Japanese Alps, and as such receives a very high

number of visitors. The town, however, is

protected within the Chubu Sangaku National

Park and retains its original style with

development very limited and cars prohibited.

Crow Castle, Matsumoto

Traditional thatched homes, Shirakawago

17www.audleytravel.com/japan • 01993 838 210 • Central Japan

Local postman, Magome

View over the Kiso Valley Wooden houses, Tsumago

Kiso Valley

This scenic region of central Honshu is one of the

most beautiful and accessible areas in which to

experience the ‘real’ Japan. A highly significant

travel and trade region in the past, its protected

towns offer a glimpse of times and lifestyles long

lost in other parts of the country. The Kisoji was

an ancient trade route spanning 70 kilometres

along the Kiso Valley and was an important

means of commerce to the area. Later, it became

part of the Nakasendo Highway, which brought

wealth and importance to the region. One of the

few remaining sections of the historic route lies

in the Kiso Valley and the post towns have been

preserved in their original glory with strict

construction regulations protecting their

unique style.

Nakasendo Highway

The Nakasendo Highway was established in the

8th century, one of several roads which linked the

areas around the then capital, Nara. The roads

were built with the notion of helping to unite the

growing state and the Nakasendo alone covered

over 500 kilometres between mountain ranges.

It was used as an official communication route to

allow rulers to quickly send messages, goods,

personnel and spies across the empire. Today,

walking along sections of the Nakasendo

Highway is an excellent way to explore the

beautiful countryside and visit ancient post towns

such as Tsumago and Magome.

Tsumago

Tsumago, a small village in the Kiso Valley, is one

of our favourite spots in Japan. A visit here is

made even better by the warm welcome at one

of the simple, but atmospheric, traditional

Japanese inns which remain much the same as

those used by travelling samurai over 200 years

ago. Tsumago lies midway along the Nakasendo

Highway. As the route passed into disuse the

post towns lining the road became backwaters,

cut off from the progress that was changing the

rest of Japan, and leaving a tangible reminder of a

different time. In the 1960s, to counter the

inevitable collapse of the town’s Edo period

houses, the locals of Tsumago banded together

to preserve its unique character and restore the

town’s buildings. This led to Tsumago gaining

protected status, and was one of the first

instances of cultural preservation in modern

Japan. This preservation provides a similar view

to that which would have greeted travellers on

the Nakasendo Highway in its prime, hundreds

of years ago.

Daikichi Ryokan, TsumagoLocated just on the edge of the town’s centre,

the Daikichi is an excellent example of traditional

accommodation. The inn’s five rooms are small

and basic with shared bathrooms, but ooze

authentic Japanese character and command

excellent views of the nearby wooded valley.

The food is all locally grown or sourced and what

you eat is very much dependent on the season.

Some of the specialities you can expect to taste

vary from mountain vegetables to handmade

buckwheat noodles.

Tsumago, Nakasendo Highway

Autumn colours in Kamikochi

18

Japan’s spectacular mountain scenery and

abundance of striking national parks make it

an excellent location for walking. From

volcanic peaks to enormous tracts of serene

forest, rivers that cut through imposing

gorges, and vast mountains peppered with

tiny villages and sacred temples and shrines,

the variety of landscapes is astounding and the

scope of beauty immense.

There are a number of walking trails such as

the high altitude Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine

Route through Murodo in the northern

Japanese Alps, the Nakasendo Highway

through the Japanese Alps, the Kumano Kodo

Pilgrims’ Trail in central Japan as well as the

national parks scattered across the islands that

also offer excellent day hikes. Hiking trails in

Japan tend to be better maintained than in

other countries, so any walk you do is likely to

use village paths and well-kept paved and

unpaved trails, all well signposted.

Nakasendo Highway, Japanese AlpsThe Nakasendo Highway, which runs through

the mountains, can easily be tackled in small

sections, despite the full route being 530

kilometres long. Perhaps the most accessible

of these is the two hour walk between the

ancient post towns of Tsumago and Magome.

Here, you’ll follow a well-defined and mostly

gravel path which leads you through paddy

fields and small sections of forest, past rural

houses and eye-catching waterfalls – an

excellent way of exploring the extremely

picturesque landscape in this area. The path is

steep in places, and through the forest you’ll

see bells along the way, which are to ward off

bears, although they are very rarely seen.

Kamikochi, Japanese AlpsAs one of the most scenic spots in Japan, the

area around Kamikochi is littered with walking

trails through its virgin forests and soaring

mountains. Most hiking trails begin from the

picturesque Kappabashi suspension bridge in

the centre of Kamikochi and are usually well

marked with signposts, although these tend to

be in Japanese. Less strenuous walks explore

the valley floor on mostly level paths. One of

our favourite routes meanders through the

forest towards Taisho Pond, a striking lake

formed in 1915 by a volcanic eruption which

dammed the river. For those looking to exert

more energy, there are several paths which

head into the mountains themselves.Signpost on the Nakasendo Highway

Walking in Japan

Daisetsuzan National Park, Hokkaido

Sakurajima, Kirishima National Park, Kyushu Kappabashi suspension bridge, Kamikochi

Kirishima National Park, KyushuOne of the first areas in Japan to be

designated a national park, Kirishima is also

one of the most diverse in the country. Dense

forests of oak and pine, smoking volcanoes,

cobalt crater lakes, highland plateaux and hot

springs make up the untouched wilderness

that is the Kirishima National Park, and

walking opportunities here vary from short

day walks, to longer overnight treks.

Daisetsuzan National Park, HokkaidoThe volcanic mountains, unusual rock

formations, rushing waterfalls and vivid

colours of the alpine tundra in Daisetsuzan

National Park are within easy access of the

major onsen towns. Cable cars and chairlifts

dotted around the park allow visitors to ride

up the steep ascents and then walk along the

hiking trails in the alpine meadows and high

moors. The park also has easy-to-follow

ridge walks which lead up to different

summits and calderas.

19www.audleytravel.com/japan • 01993 838 210 • Central Japan

Kenrokuen, Kanazawa

Lady mending nets, western Honshu

Shirasagi-jo Castle, Himeji

Japanese macaques, Jigokudani Onsen

Kanazawa & the Noto Peninsula

A convivial modern city within easy reach of

Tokyo or Kyoto, Kanazawa is best known for the

magnificent garden of Kenrokuen. Built in the

classic stroll style, this is a wonderful place in

which to observe and enjoy the six elements

(spaciousness, tranquillity, artifice, antiquity,

water courses and a magnificent view) that

combine to form the perfect Japanese garden.

While in Kanazawa it is also well worth exploring

the samurai district with its craft museums, and

perhaps visit Ninja-dera, a temple known for its

association with this shadowy clan of assassins.

Within striking distance of Kanazawa is the

rugged, windswept Noto Peninsula, a world away

from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo or Kyoto,

with its relaxed villages and scenic beach drives.

Asadaya Ryokan, KanazawaThe Asadaya is an exclusive ryokan with just five

traditionally minimalist yet extremely elegant

rooms. Founded in 1867, it is furnished with

beautiful antiques and decorated with elaborate

scrolls and paintings. Its intimate nature means

that service is impeccable and each guest

receives plenty of attention. The Asadaya is just

as well-known for its food and serves only the

best Kaga (Kanazawa) cuisine. These local dishes

highlight the changing seasons with fresh

ingredients and menus tailored to individual

guests. The ryokan also houses an impressive

hoard of antique samurai swords, in keeping with

Kanazawa’s history as a feudal base.

Yudanaka

The small town of Yudanaka is a hot spring

resort popular with both humans and the native

Japanese macaque. At Jigokudani Onsen, which is

known as Hell Valley due to the bubbling hot

sulphur vents dotted around it, more than 100

monkeys congregate in one of the hot spring

baths. They can be seen throughout the year, but

are especially photogenic during the cold winter

months when the valley is covered by a thick

layer of snow. The small town of Obuse is a short

train ride away and is home to the Hokkusai

Museum which contains replicas and originals of

this famous Edo period artist’s woodblock prints,

such as the acclaimed ‘The Wave’.

Western Honshu

Between Kyoto and Hiroshima, in the very west

of Honshu, lie a wealth of traditional towns and

picturesque fishing villages which can make

fascinating stops along your journey between the

two larger cities. Himeji boasts the elegant

Shirasagi-jo ‘White Egret’ Castle, considered

Japan’s finest; Okayama is home to the top-rated

Korakuen Garden; and at Kurashiki the historic

canal-side Bikan district is ideal for an hour or

two’s relaxation while admiring the golden koi

and watching the world go by. Head for the

northern coast of western Honshu and you find

yourself in a more traditional and less-visited

Japan. The old samurai quarters and ruined

castle of Tsuwano and Hagi, the superb Museum

of Art at Matsue, and the fishing villages of the

Tango Peninsula all fully justify a visit. With public

transport more infrequent, we recommend that

you pick up a hire car to discover this little-visited

corner of Honshu.

Rice terraces, Noto Peninsula

Asadaya Ryokan, Kanazawa

20

Tailoring your trip

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that

work particularly well. We can use these as a

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely

different itinerary to suit your tastes and

interests. Please call one of our Japan specialists

to start planning your itinerary.

T 01993 838 210

Getting around

Direct flights from the UK to Japan will arrive

into Tokyo’s two main airports, Narita and

Haneda, where you are met and assisted with

your onward transfer. Most itineraries will include

travel on the extensive Japanese public

transportation system and any trains, buses or

ferries that feature on your trip will be covered

either by the cost-effective Japan Rail Pass or by

separate tickets purchased for you in advance of

travel. Using public transport in Japan is

straightforward with most stations having signs

and announcements in both Japanese and English.

More detail on specific journeys and how to

use trains, buses and taxis can be found in your

pre-departure final itinerary pack. Taxis are

commonplace in cities and are useful for short

journeys or to find your bearings. Away from

the classic routes, a hire car may be the most

practical option and English language maps,

along with a satellite navigation system will be

provided in your car.

When to go

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Q 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 ~ 3 3 3 3 3 3 Q 3 3 The best time to travel.

3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.

~ Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.

Q Snow or ski season.

Japan has four distinct seasons and being in the

northern hemisphere these are roughly the same

as UK and North American seasons. In Central

Japan, winters are mostly cool and sunny, with

heavy snowfall from December to April in the

Japanese Alps. Summer, between June and

September, is hot and humid with showers.

Spring and autumn are by far the best times to

visit Central Japan, although these are also the

busiest periods so booking further in advance

becomes necessary.

Time difference: GMT+9 hours

Prices

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline

prices for your trip to Japan on our website,

alternatively please call our specialists to discuss

your plans.Geisha, Gion district, Kyoto

Kasumiga-ike pond, Kenrokuen, Kanazawa

21

Suggested itineraries

www.audleytravel.com/japan • 01993 838 210 • Central Japan

Central Japan: Tokyo, Kyoto & Japanese AlpsThis classic itinerary highlights the very best of Japan. From the towering skyscrapers of Tokyo to the peaceful temples and gardens of Kyoto, you’ll experience many of the contrasts of Japan. Spend time in traditional accommodation, delve into Japanese history and see geisha in Kyoto.

Day 1 Arrive in Tokyo and begin your exploration of the city.

Day 2 Explore Tokyo, either with a guide or at your own pace, including the Senso-ji Temple and Meiji Shrine.

Day 3 Visit Kamakura to see the Daibutsu Buddha.

Day 4 Take the train to the small city of Matsumoto in the morning. Explore the famous Crow Castle and other sights.

Day 5 Take the train to the quiet and picturesque village of Tsumago, where you can walk part of the historic Nakasendo Highway.

Day 6 Travel by local train and bullet train to Kyoto, Japan’s cultural heart. Use this afternoon to see the sights, including the Golden Pavilion and Ryoanji temple, famed for its Zen gardens.

Day 7 A day to explore more of Kyoto’s highlights. In the evening your guide will collect you for a tour of Gion, Kyoto’s geisha district.

Day 8 Take a day trip to nearby Nara, Japan’s ancient capital. Return to Kyoto via Fushimi-inari Shrine for its stunning procession at the red torii gates.

Day 9 Start the day with a chance to try your hand at a traditional cultural activity such as a tea ceremony. Later, return to Tokyo by bullet train.

Day 10 Onward flight from Tokyo.

Stay longer

Travel to Hakone National Park on your way back from Kyoto, to spend some time relaxing in the hot springs.

Grand tour of JapanThis comprehensive itinerary allows an in-depth exploration of the best that mainland Japan has to offer.

Day 1 Arrive in Tokyo and begin exploring the city.

Day 2 Enjoy a guided tour of Tokyo.

Day 3 Visit Nikko, home to some spectacular shrines.

Day 4 Start early at the Tsukiji Fish Market, then enjoy a guided tour around the shitamachi district of Tokyo.

Day 5 Travel to Tsumago.

Day 6 Visit the castle town of Matsumoto and later, travel through the Japanese Alps to Takayama.

Day 7 Explore Takayama’s traditional buildings.

Day 8 Travel to Kanazawa.

Day 9 Explore Kanazawa, including the Kenrokuen Garden.

Day 10 Travel by train to Hiroshima.

Day 11 Visit the evocative Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park and Museum.

Day 12 Cross the Inland Sea to Miyajima Island.

Day 13 Travel to Kyoto and take part in a tea ceremony or cookery class.

Day 14 Explore Kyoto at your own pace.

Day 15 Take in the quiet gardens of Kyoto. In the evening take a stroll around the Gion district with your local guide.

Day 16 Visit the nearby Fushimi-inari Shrine. Continue to Nara to see the Todai-ji Buddha.

Day 17 Travel to Mount Koya. Spend the night in temple lodgings.

Day 18 Explore Mount Koya. Take the train to Hakone National Park.

Day 19 Explore the national park.

Day 20 Return to Tokyo for a final night.

Day 21 Onward flight from Tokyo.

Japanese Alps ExplorerThe central Japanese Alps region is one of the most beautiful in the country. From May to October walking, hiking and outdoor activities can be enjoyed, whilst the winter brings ample opportunity for skiing and snowboarding.

Day 1 Arrive in Tokyo.

Day 2 Explore the varied sights of Tokyo at your own pace.

Day 3 Travel to the small hot spring town of Yudanaka by train to see the playful snow monkeys.

Day 4 Visit nearby Obuse, a quiet artisan town.

Day 5 Take the train to Matsumoto and then travel by local bus to Kamikochi.

Day 6 Do some light walking or more serious hiking in and around Kamikochi.

Day 7 Return to Matsumoto to explore the city, including Crow Castle.

Day 8 Traverse the mountains on the Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route. You spend the evening in Murodo, about halfway along the route.

Day 9 Enjoy a walk in the area and then continue on the route to Kanazawa.

Day 10 Explore the Kenrokuen Garden and Kanazawa’s samurai districts.

Day 11 Take the express train to Kyoto. Try a traditional activity of your choice, such as calligraphy or flower arranging.

Day 12 Explore Kyoto at your own pace and in the evening take a walk around the geisha quarter with your guide.

Day 13 Visit nearby Nara to see the great Todai-ji Buddha.

Day 14 Return to Tokyo by bullet train.

Day 15 Head to the airport for your flight.

Tokyo

Kamakura

Matsumoto

Tsumago

Kyoto

Nara

Tokyo

Matsumoto

Tsumago

Kyoto

Nara

Nikko

Takayama

Kanazawa

Hiroshima

Miyajima Island

Mount Koya

Hakone National Park

Tokyo

MatsumotoMurodo

Kyoto

Nara

KamikochiKanazawa

Yudanaka

22

Many people are apprehensive of travelling to

Japan, fearing they will find nothing to eat but

raw fish. Of course Japan is renowned for its

fantastically fresh and delicate sushi and sashimi,

but the country offers a wealth of other dishes

to satisfy any palate. Part of the fun, and indeed

the challenge, of travelling to Japan is to try out

some of the unusual tastes of nihon ryori

(Japanese cuisine) and the many regional and

seasonal variations of which the locals are

rightly proud. One thing to bear in mind when

dining out in traditional restaurants is that they

generally specialise in one type of food only,

such as sushi or tempura for example. So when

eating out, first decide what you want to eat

and then find a restaurant that serves it. There

are certain types of Japanese cuisine which you

will find all across the country, but there are

also delicious regional specialities.

Festival food, Takayama

Food

Kaiseki Ryori

Some highlights of Japanese cuisineRice & noodlesRice is the staple of every Japanese meal and is

served as a side dish to traditional breakfasts,

lunches and dinners. Noodles can be either an

accompaniment to a main meal, particularly

meat and fish dishes, or the main component of

the meal, usually served in a broth with

tempura or vegetables. Udon and soba are two

of the main types of Japanese noodle: udon are

thick wheat noodles, while soba are thinner and

made of buckwheat. As well as served hot, you

may also find both udon and soba presented

zaru style: chilled, on a wicker basket with a

topping of soy sauce, grated ginger, wasabi

paste, shredded nori seaweed and spring

onions, particularly refreshing during the

summer months.

Sushi & sashimiSushi comes in several forms, of which nigiri-

zushi (a slice of raw fish placed on top of a ball

of vinegared rice), maki-zushi (a sushi roll

wrapped in seaweed) and inari-zushi (rice in a

pocket of sweet, fried tofu) are the most

common. The cheapest and most popular way

of eating sushi is by finding a kaiten-zushi bar.

Here you sit at the counter and choose your

dishes from the revolving conveyor belt.

Sashimi is simply raw fish served without rice

and is often used as an appetiser for main

meals. Both sushi and sashimi are served with

shouyu (soy sauce) for dipping, wasabi paste

and slices of pickled gari (ginger).

TempuraTempura is the general name for any vegetable,

prawn or portion of fish fried in a light, crispy

batter. Tempura is usually served in a

lacquerware box with dipping sauce and grated

daikon (white radish) or tempura salt, and

comes with rice and crunchy pickles.Mixed sashimi

Soba noodles, zaru style

23www.audleytravel.com/japan • 01993 838 210 • Food

Yakiniku (Korean barbecue)

Regional specialitiesOkonomiyakiA speciality in both Hiroshima and Osaka,

okonomiyaki literally means ‘cook what you

like’. It is a type of Japanese pancake cooked on

a hot plate in front of you, made from cabbage,

pork, egg and noodles, then topped with

okonomiyaki sauce (which is thick, sweet and

tangy), aonori (seaweed flakes), bonito flakes

(dried, smoked bonito fish), Japanese

mayonnaise and pickled ginger.

Crab nabeThis dish is often associated with the northern

island of Hokkaido, which has an abundance

of large and succulent crabs. These are placed

in a traditional Japanese-style hotpot dish

known as a nabe and cooked in a flavoured

broth with vegetables.

RamenNow a common feature on the Japanese menu,

ramen is Chinese in origin. There are countless

variations, but the basic concept of ramen is a

bowl of noodles in a wholesome broth, usually

flavoured with miso (soybean) paste or soy

sauce and topped with vegetables and meat.

YakinikuYakiniku or grilled meat is a sociable dining

experience. Various cuts of beef including rump,

tongue, stomach and fillets are laid out so you

can cook them on a small grill on your table

before dipping them in a rich dark sauce.

Originating in Korea, the meat dishes can be

accompanied by kimchi – spicy Korean pickles

– and bibinba, which is a tasty and healthy

Korean rice dish cooked quickly to lock in

freshness.

SukiyakiSukiyaki is a hotpot style dish in which various

ingredients such as thin slices of meat (typically

beef), tofu, mushrooms (usually shiitake), leafy

vegetables and jelly noodles are cooked in a

broth of soy sauce, sugar and mirin (a type of

sweet rice wine which is low in alcohol). The

broth is held in a large shared pot for the table

and the ingredients are added in front of you.

When it is cooked, you extract what you want

with chopsticks, and dip it into a dish of raw

egg before eating.

MatchaKyoto is famed for its matcha, green tea

powder, which is used in traditional tea

ceremonies. Nowadays it is also used to flavour

cakes, ice creams and other desserts. Kyoto’s

matcha parfaits are a favourite of ours –

desserts packed with layered vanilla and green

tea ice cream, green tea sponge and different

varieties of wagashi, traditional Japanese

confectionery, usually served with matcha green

tea to balance the slightly bitter taste.

TakoyakiOriginally popular in Osaka but now found on

street food stalls around the country, takoyaki

is a ball of octopus encased in a light ginger and

onion batter, cooked on a cast iron griddle and

then topped with a rich sweet sauce and

sprinkled with aonori and bonito flakes.

Hida beefLocated in the Hida region of Japan, Takayama

is famous for its incredibly flavoursome wagyu

beef. Wagyu refers to Japanese bred cows, of

which Hida is one. The fat which is marbled

through the cuts of meat makes Hida beef

particularly succulent, especially in a steak.

Kaiseki RyoriPerhaps the most elegant and esteemed meal

in Japan, kaiseki ryori is the original

accompaniment to a tea ceremony. It consists

of tapas-style dishes showcasing a range of

delicacies chosen for their seasonality and

freshness. Kaiseki is the pinnacle of Japanese

dining and the food is always meticulously

prepared and beautifully presented.

Casual diningJapan’s sophisticated street food should not be

missed. Some of the highlights include yakitori,

grilled chicken skewers, usually cooked over a

barbecue and Kushiage, meat, fish or vegetable

skewers, deep fried in breadcrumbs, served

with dipping sauces. Izakayas are the Japanese

version of a pub, they are great fun, good value

and easy to spot – outside they will have red

lanterns bearing the name of the restaurant,

and picture menus.

Eating at a street stall, Honshu

Sukiyaki

Izakaya, Tokyo

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Fukuoka

Okawachiyama

KagoshimaChiran

Ibusuki

Nagasaki

Kumamoto

MatsuyamaKurokawa

Tokushima

Takamatsu

Naha

JAPAN

KYUSHU

SHIKOKU

OKINAWA

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0 100 miles

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25

1 Iya ValleyA forested, remote haven

of glorious scenery and

traditional culture.

See page 31

2 MatsuyamaHome to one of only twelve

original castles in Japan, and

one of the country’s best hot

spring resorts.

See page 30

3 Pilgrimage Trail templesExperience the serenity of one

or two of Shikoku’s 88

pilgrimage temples.

See pages 30-31

4 Mount AsoAn enormous volcanic caldera

amid lush mountain scenery.

See page 28

5 NagasakiVisit Nagasaki with its World

War II memorial and remnants

of Dutch trading.

See page 26

6 Takachiho GorgeTake a boat down the river

to enjoy the sight of cherry

trees lining the remarkable

gorge above.

See page 28

7 Kirishima National ParkHike through the striking

volcanic landscape of Japan’s

first national park.

See page 27

8 Okinawa beachesRelax on the subtropical

beaches of Ishigaki Island or

Miyako Island.

See pages 32-33

FestivalsEnjoy the spectacle of Japan’s

largest dance festival, Awa

Odori, in Tokushima.

See page 31

Southern Japan

Audley in Southern Japan

As a trip to Japan’s southern islands is all

about escaping the urbanisation of the

mainland, we always recommend taking the

time to explore a bit more off the beaten

track here. We can create a trip that

includes hiking around volcanic calderas,

forays into the Shikoku heartland to visit one

of the lesser-known temples on the

Pilgrimage Route, or time on a white-sand

beach. We have first-hand knowledge of

these islands and can advise you on which

areas to visit depending on your interests

and the best way to get around. Many

visitors pick just one of the southern islands

and combine time in Central Japan with

exploration on Kyushu, Shikoku or Okinawa

to get a flavour of Japan away from the

majority of other visitors.

Accommodation

As we do elsewhere in Japan, we try to pick

accommodation options that will really

enhance your experience of the country.

Although only a few of our favourites have

been mentioned on the following pages, we

can suggest a wide range of accommodation

depending on your preferences. There are

several ryokans in Kyushu and Shikoku that

offer local cuisine and hot spring bathing, and

the welcome here is always warm. There

are pockets on each island where good

accommodation options are scarce; here,

we will pick the best option for you, but it

may be lacking in character. In Okinawa

there are plenty of Western-style resort

hotels with wide-ranging facilities on offer,

but on some of the islands which are further

afield the options are limited.

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Ishite-ji temple, Matsuyama

THE SOuTHERN ISlANDS Of JAPAN have a predominantly relaxed atmosphere and rural

landscape. Kyushu is the southernmost of Japan’s four main islands, well-known for its dramatic

scenery, excellent hiking and beautiful hot spring resorts. The island’s seething volcanic terrain is

matched by its turbulent history and during Japan’s long years of self-imposed isolation, the island was

the only place in which contact with the outside world was permitted. Resting in the waters of the

Inland Sea, Shikoku is home to classic gardens, countless temples and farming villages. Cross to the island

by train from Okayama, board a boat through the archipelago from Hiroshima or take a bus across the

world’s longest suspension bridge, to discover remote farmhouses, ancient pilgrimage sites and classical

culture. The Okinawa Archipelago, form a huge arc stretching from southern Kyushu almost as far as

Taiwan, offering white-sand beaches and an island lifestyle. The climate here is subtropical, making it

the perfect place to relax at the end of your mainland Japanese adventures.

www.audleytravel.com/japan • 01993 838 210 • Southern Japan

Awa Odori Festival

26

Taiko drummers performing a sunrise concert, Kyushu

Peace Park, Nagasaki

Kyushu

An island of staggering natural beauty, with

numerous hiking trails, active volcanoes, relaxing

onsens and plentiful gardens, museums, galleries

and memorials, Kyushu offers great variety for

anyone venturing away from the mainland. The

island’s magnificent scenery, especially in the

national parks of Aso-Kuju and Kirishima and on

some of the smaller outlying islands, is reason to

visit in itself. Kyushu also has some fascinating

culture and lively cities to match.

Fukuoka

Situated in the very north of Kyushu, Fukuoka

has a young population, which gives it a very

vibrant and international outlook. With some

wonderful arts and crafts museums and some

great food on offer, it is well worth using as a

base to explore the area. Ramen noodles are

a local speciality and are served almost

everywhere and in every combination

imaginable. The area’s other speciality is the

infamous fugu (blowfish), which is so poisonous it

can be fatal if prepared the wrong way. Fukuoka

is the main port of access from Korea into Japan

by sea, and is also the entry point to Kyushu

from Honshu and surrounding Asian cities.

Nagasaki

A vibrant and cosmopolitan place with noticeable

Portuguese and Dutch influences, Nagasaki’s

topography mercifully prevented it from being

totally destroyed when it was hit by an atomic

bomb at the end of World War II.

The city was Japan’s only point of contact with

the Western world through many years of

self-imposed isolation from mid-17th to mid-19th

century, and this fascinating early contact with

missionaries and traders is revealed in the

architectural styles and number of Christian

churches. Glover Garden showcases several

mansions of former Western residents in its

open-air museum, from where you can get

some great views of the city as you look out

across the bay.

It is, of course, Nagasaki’s sensitive and highly

informative Atomic Bomb Museum and the

moving Peace Park which are the city’s most

visited attractions, but if you spend any longer in

the city, Gunkanjima (also known as Battleship

Island) is an intriguing place to visit. Located just

offshore, the island used to be a coalmine until

it had to be abandoned in 1974. Since then,

typhoons have ravaged the island, leaving its

buildings derelict and destroyed, giving the island

a distinctly eerie feel. It is probably most familiar

as a location for the James Bond film Skyfall.

Okawachiyama

Surrounded by steep, densely forested

mountains, the tiny, picturesque town of

Okawachiyama in the north grew around its

porcelain industry. Production began hundreds of

years ago and porcelain from Okawachiyama was

so highly prized that emperors and shoguns

ordered their wares from here. Production

methods were never revealed to outsiders and

so the town earned the name of ‘the home of

the secret kilns’. In the Edo period a great deal

of porcelain was exported to Europe and

production still continues today using traditional

methods. The Okawachiyama kilns are open to

the public and great bargains can be found here

as you wander the narrow streets lined with

traditional buildings and observe the craftsmen

at work.

27www.audleytravel.com/japan • 01993 838 210 • Southern Japan

Kirishima National Park Sand-bathing, Ibusuki

Street food stalls, Fukuoka Street in Okawachiyama Samurai residence, Chiran

Kirishima National Park

The first of Japan’s designated national parks is

home to an array of stunning sights including

smoking volcanoes, vast plateaux, sparkling lakes,

rugged coastlines and thick forests. The park

stretches over a large area of southern Kyushu

with the main walking and hiking opportunities

to be found to the north of the park. Also

included within the park boundaries is the

still-active island volcano Sakurajima and the

subtropical, other-worldly island of Yakushima,

covered in lush moss and ancient cedar trees,

many of which may be over 7,000 years old.

Although rainy during the summer months, the

park is strewn with spring flowers, including

brightly coloured azaleas in April and May, and

has spectacular foliage in autumn.

Ibusuki & Chiran

Ibusuki is best known for its unique geothermal

‘sand-bathing’ experience, in which people are

submerged up to their necks in volcanic sand.

The mineral-rich sand is naturally heated by

subterranean geysers and its weight and heat

around you provides an experience that is

purportedly excellent for the skin. Close to

Ibusuki is Lake Ikeda, the largest crater lake on

Kyushu, which was created during the eruption

of Mount Kaimon. The lake is particularly

attractive in spring, when you’ll notice a vivid

contrast between the azure water and the

brilliant yellow canola fields which surround it.

Further north on the Satsuma Peninsula, on

which Ibusuki and local transport hub Kagoshima

are located, lies the small town of Chiran. A

fascinating place to explore, Chiran’s main

attraction is its beautiful gardens, which are

known as Little Kyoto. Dotted about these

gardens are ancient samurai residences which are

occasionally open for visitors to explore. Chiran

is also home to a Peace Museum for Japan’s

notorious kamikaze pilots, who completed their

training here before flying off to war. Hundreds

of young men rallied to this call, eager to martyr

themselves for the emperor. Their opportunity

came during the battle of Okinawa when over

1,000 pilots died; their photos line the walls of

the museum.

Futari Shizuka, Kirishima National ParkA lovely and secluded ryokan set deep within

Kirishima National Park, Futari Shizuka provides

guests with a relaxing and inviting stay. The five

rooms are full of character with comfortable

beds, and are linked by winding pathways and

lush gardens leading to the outdoor baths, solely

for guests’ use. The ryokan places a strong

emphasis on excellent service and this extends

to the food which is meticulously prepared and

presented with local seasonal ingredients. This

property is one of our long-standing favourites

in the area.

Lake Ikeda, near Ibusuki Futari Shizuka, Kirishima National Park

28

Takachiho Gorge

Aso-Kuju National Park

Aso-Kuju National Park is one of the best places

to see the island’s dramatic natural scenery.

Active Mount Aso lies at the centre of this

national park, which is the only place in Japan

where visitors can explore a ‘live’ caldera. The

area is awash with impressive mountains, the

slopes of which vary from starkly volcanic to a

blanket of forest that transforms into a

magnificently vivid display of colour each

autumn. Although there are trains and local

buses through the park, it is best explored by

hire car as public transport timetables can be

restrictive. Due to the nature of the active

volcanic landscape, a number of hot spring

towns have emerged in the national park and its

surroundings. These include Beppu, Japan’s

‘capital city of hot springs’, the small but trendy

Yufuin, and our favourite, the attractive

Kurokawa.

Takachiho Gorge

Just south of Aso-Kuju National Park lies

Takachiho Gorge, a dramatic ravine of sheer

limestone cliffs and tumbling waterfalls. A 600

metre walking trail leads through the gorge, lined

by mountain cherry blossoms and Japanese

azaleas. One of the best ways to enjoy the

scenery, however, is to hire a boat and gently

drift along the river below. Just west of the town

centre is the Takachiho Shrine, nestled in a grove

of cedar trees. The shrine is host to nightly

performances of Yokagura dancing. This is an

ancient ceremonial art with its origins in the

worship of traditional deities, but over the years

the dance has evolved and is now more

connected to the agricultural cycle, with dances

to give thanks for a good harvest and pray for

the warmth of the spring to return. Dancers

wear costumes and masks, and the performances

are vibrant folk dances that have remained

popular throughout the centuries.

Kurokawa

Kurokawa is one of Japan’s finest hot spring

towns, and a preservation order has been issued

by the local government to keep the traditional

character of the town in place, banning gaudy

signs and large hotels. As such, the town remains

highly attractive, set as it is within a forested

valley, and characterised by wooden buildings

alongside a flowing river. The town is dominated

by numerous excellent public onsens and

rotemburo (outdoor baths). They can be found

dotted about the town and concentrated along

the riverside, which makes the outdoor bathing

here wonderfully scenic.

Okunoyu Ryokan, KurokawaOne of the most attractive ryokans in the

Kurokawa Valley, Okunoyu Ryokan is set in lush

riverside grounds on the side of Mount Kuju, an

active volcano. Its 14 rooms are traditionally

minimalist and the food is sumptuous ryokan

cuisine. Copious supplies of geothermal waters

feed its many onsen pools, all of which are

different, and it is worth trying as many as you

can as they provide the perfect place to relax at

the end of the day.

Road to Mount Aso, Aso-Kuju National Park

Okunoyu Ryokan, Kurokawa

29www.audleytravel.com/japan • 01993 838 210 • Southern Japan

Kumamoto CastleSuizen-ji Koen, Kumamoto

Samurai armour, Kumamoto Castle

Kumamoto

Situated on the coast southwest of Mount Aso,

Kumamoto is home to one of the finest castles in

Japan. Established at the same time as this

impressive fortress, the city became a stronghold

of some of the last remaining samurai during the

Satsuma rebellion, an uprising of samurai against

the newly formed imperial government. Sadly

earthquakes have put a stop to entering the

castle indefinitely due to weakened fortifications

although the nearby Suizenji koen, an attractive

landscaped garden depicting in miniature the 53

post stations of the Tokaido Highway, are open.

Women in winter kimonos, Kumamoto

Onsen bathingA highlight of any trip to Japan is

experiencing the long-standing tradition of

communal hot spring bathing. Onsen bathing

is highly recommended both for its cultural

importance and for the simple pleasure of

soaking in a steaming hot bath. There are

around 3,000 hot springs in the country,

many in spectacular locations.

The bathsJapanese baths are usually large enough for

a number of people to bathe at once and

deep enough for the water to reach your

neck. The baths are very hot and contain

either normal tap water, or, if you are at an

onsen resort, cloudy mineral-rich geo-

thermal water or rust-coloured iron-fed

water, which claim to have healing

properties. Men and women normally

bathe separately, except in some resorts

where private mixed onsen can be hired.

Bathing etiquetteA small towel will be provided in your room

to preserve your modesty but bathers enter

the water naked. You will be required to

wash and rinse thoroughly before entering

the bath; go slowly as it takes time to get

used to the heat. Then relax and enjoy

the bath. Rotemburo, open-air baths, are

particularly atmospheric as you gaze at the

stars or watch snowflakes fall around you.Bather at an onsen

Water buckets at an onsen

30

Pilgrims, Shikoku

Modern art on Naoshima Island, near Takamatsu

Matsuyama Castle

Shikoku

Despite being the smallest and least populous of

Japan’s four main islands, Shikoku is home to

some of the country’s finest gardens and most

picturesque coastal scenery as well as ancient

Buddhist temples, castles and distinctive arts and

crafts. Shikoku is the closest and most accessible

island to Central Japan, located southwest of

Kyoto and south of Hiroshima, and connected to

the mainland by several bridges, including the

longest single-span suspension bridge in the

world. In addition to its traditional sights, Shikoku

is also known for some of the nation’s most

atmospheric festivals, notably in the cultural hub

of Tokushima.

Equally appealing is Shikoku’s rural pace of life

and untouched countryside, particularly in the

centre and west of the island. On the craggy

western coastline you’ll find quaint fishing villages

full of friendly locals and delicious regional cuisine.

Further south, Uwajima boasts a fertility shrine,

unique in Japan. Kochi in the very south of the

island was once the most rugged and cut-off part

of Japan and it is here that many of the most

hard to reach temples on the Shikoku Pilgrimage

are located.

Takamatsu

This modern city in the north is best known for

its Ritsurin Garden, often considered to be one

of the top three in the country. The garden dates

back to the early 17th century and was

constructed by several feudal lords over a period

of 100 years with the idea of presenting the

beauty of all four of the seasons in one space.

Also worth a visit is Shikoku Mura, an open-air

museum exhibiting traditional buildings from all

over Shikoku. This is located at the base of

Mount Yashima, which overlooks Takamatsu

and the Inland Sea and has an unusually flat top,

ideal for surveying the beautiful surroundings.

The ruins of one of Japan’s few seaside castles

can also be found in Takamatsu, along with the

Isamu Noguchi Memorial Garden, which displays

Noguchi’s art and sculptures. A short ferry ride

away from Takamatsu lies Naoshima Island, again

notable for its many highly regarded collections

of modern art.

Matsuyama

The largest and most interesting city on Shikoku,

Matsuyama sits on the northwestern corner of

the island and boasts an impressive castle, one of

the country’s oldest hot springs and easy access

to the island’s highest mountain, Ishizuchi-san.

The town grew gradually around the castle,

which was constructed in 1602, but the centre

was largely destroyed during World War II and

then rebuilt. Although the city is now expanding

rapidly, it retains the relaxed atmosphere of a

much smaller town. Matsuyama Castle is one of

only 12 original castles in Japan to have survived

intact since the feudal era. Located on a hill which

overlooks the city and the Inland Sea, the castle is

surrounded by cherry trees which, in spring,

make the castle even more attractive. East of the

city centre is the hot spring resort Dogo Onsen,

which contains one of the oldest and most

magnificent bathhouses in the country. It was

featured in the award-winning animated film

Spirited Away by Studio Ghibli’s Hayao Miyazaki.

31www.audleytravel.com/japan • 01993 838 210 • Southern Japan

Iya Valley

This remote and strikingly verdant area is

considered to be one of Japan’s ‘three hidden

regions’. Its tall peaks and deep gorges,

traditionally crossed by vine bridges, were a safe

haven for clans during the civil wars of the 12th

century due to their remoteness and the

inaccessibility of the landscape. Three of these

vine bridges have been maintained throughout

the centuries and a visit to one is a great way to

see the arresting scenery and feel as if you have

travelled back in time.

Although you are likely to see more modern

houses than ancient ones nowadays, there is a

strong focus on preserving the traditions of the

area. You can learn about the local culture in a

number of museums, and see the picturesque

buildings as they once were by exploring a

restored example. For instance, Chiiori is an

ancient farmhouse which has been restored and

serves as a project to introduce people to

traditional Japanese life. It is also worth travelling

to the remote Oku Iya, the inner valley, to visit

the Higashi Iya History and Folk Museum and a

restored samurai residence, but the valley is

difficult to access without a rental car.

Shikoku Pilgrimage

Covering 1,200 kilometres and traditionally

completed on foot, the Shikoku Pilgrimage takes

in 88 elaborately decorated temples on the

island. The temples are all associated with the

Buddhist monk Kobo Daishi who founded the

Shingon school of Buddhism, a descendent of

tantric Tibetan Buddhism. Each of the temples

represents one of the 88 evils which Shingon

Buddhists believe bedevil human life. Modern-

day pilgrims, known as henro, are recognisable

by their white clothing, conical sedge hats, and

kongo-zue (wooden staffs). There are a number

of lodges, ryokans and shukubo (temple

accommodation) situated in the vicinity of each

temple to facilitate the journey. Rather than

attempting the full pilgrimage, most visitors tend

to pick one or two temples, to get a glimpse into

Buddhist beliefs and perhaps spot some

dedicated pilgrims in their distinctive white

costumes.

Festivals Japan’s lively local festivals, known as Matsuri

are connected with shrines and temples

throughout the country and celebrate or

commemorate everything from ancient

legends and deities to historic events and

the changing of the seasons. The festivals

usually involve a brightly coloured procession

of large, decorated floats, musicians, dancers

and mikoshi – decorated shrines containing

the spirit of the local Shinto kami (gods).

Attending a festival is a unique and highly

enjoyable experience and it is well worth

planning your trip to coincide with some of

the celebrations.

Sanja Matsuri (mid to late May)The Sanja Matsuri of Asakusa Shrine is one of

the three biggest festivals in Tokyo and involves

parading more than a hundred mikoshi around

the streets. Side events include performances

by Japan’s top taiko drum academy and Tokyo’s

elusive geisha.

Awa Odori (mid-August)Held in Tokushima in Shikoku as part of the

Buddhist Obon Festival to honour one’s

ancestors, Awa Odori is the largest dance festival

in Japan. Groups of dancers in colourful

costumes parade through the streets

accompanied by music played on traditional

instruments.

Kanto Matsuri (August 3rd-6th)The Kanto Matsuri is held every August in

Akita in northern Honshu and involves

hundreds of candlelit lanterns. Participants

parade through the streets balancing

enormous 12 metre poles decorated with

46 paper lanterns, each lit by a small candle.Dance performance, Awa Odori

Sanja Matsuri

Ichinomiya-ji Temple, Shikoku Pilgrimage

Chiiori, Iya Valley

Kazura Bridge, Iya Valley

32

View of Zamami Island, Okinawa

Garlic seller, Naha

Shurijo Castle, Naha

Okinawa

Characterised by pristine beaches, superb coral

reefs and lush, subtropical vegetation, Okinawa

offers all the delights of a more typical beach

destination such as Fiji. The 160 Ryuku Islands

that make up Okinawa stretch over 700

kilometres to the south of Kyushu and are far

closer to Taiwan than mainland Japan. Indeed,

Okinawans regard themselves as slightly separate

from the rest of Japan and have their own

language and dialects. As with most tropical

islands, Okinawa is prone to typhoons during the

monsoon period and whilst the Japanese are

extremely well versed in dealing with them, it

can mean that excursions and flights are

cancelled at short notice.

Naha

Naha is the vibrant capital city of the Okinawa

Archipelago and its main street, Kokusai Dori, is

especially fascinating. Known as the kitchen of

Naha, it is lined with restaurants and food stalls

and a profusion of bright and lively shops, which

really come to life at night.

You’ll also find an interesting assortment of

arts and crafts in the city, from the Tsuboya

Pottery Museum and the still-working kilns

which line the back streets, to the Naha

Municipal Arts and Crafts Museum. Just outside

the city is the impressive Shurijo Castle and

some attractive gardens.

Naha is on Okinawa Honto, the largest island in

the archipelago, which remained under US

military control until 1972. To this day, there are

US military bases in Naha which contribute

heavily to the islands’ economy. Although Naha

and Okinawa Honto lack the idyllic and unspoiled

beaches of the smaller islands, it is pleasant to

spend a couple of days here. Naha is the most

common place to start your time in the islands as

it is a transport base for the archipelago and has

its only large airport.

Iriomote Island

This is the second largest of Okinawa’s islands,

yet is almost entirely made up of gloriously dense

jungle or mangrove swamps, one of the last

remaining true wildernesses of Japan. Due to its

rich biodiversity, Iriomote has been designated a

national park, which protects the flora and fauna,

most endangered of which is the rare Iriomote

wildcat, found only on this island. A highly

enjoyable way to explore is to take a cruise or a

canoe trip up the Urauchi River or by hiking to

one of the many magnificent waterfalls found

within the jungle.

33www.audleytravel.com/japan • 01993 838 210 • Southern Japan

Taketomi IslandJodogahama Beach, Miyako Island

Miyako Island

Located around 200 kilometres south of

Okinawa Honto and a short 30 minute flight

from Ishigaki Island, Miyako is home to some of

the best beaches in Japan. This, along with a

subtropical climate which provides pleasingly

warm weather throughout the year, makes

the island a popular beach destination with

domestic tourists.

Miyako Island itself is mostly flat and lacks the

dramatic scenery of neighbouring Ishigaki and

Iriomote islands, but its incredible beaches more

than make up for this. On the east coast of the

island is Maehama, consistently voted Japan’s best

beach. The epitome of tropical perfection,

Maehama’s seven kilometres of pure white sand

shelve gently into calm turquoise waters, ideal

for swimming and water sports.

Slightly further north is Sunayama, another

white-sand beach with clear blue waters and

rocky formations. There are many other sections

of beach which are largely deserted and the

discovery of these secret bays is part of the

enjoyment of a stay on Miyako. The island also

has some excellent snorkelling spots. Of

particular note is Yoshino Kaigan, where swarms

of colourful fish surround you as soon as you

enter the water. Nearby is a spectacular coral

reef with an abundance of marine life.

Ishigaki Island

Fringed by coral reefs, Ishigaki Island is one of

Japan’s southernmost Yaeyama Islands and is

only 75 kilometres from Taiwan. The island itself

is mountainous and rugged in parts and flat and

forested in others, making hiring a car the easiest

way to travel. Mangroves, palm forests and

jungle-covered mountains make up Ishigaki’s

interior, which can be explored on hiking or

kayaking trips.

The snorkelling opportunities from Ishigaki are

excellent, particularly around the sapphire blue

Kabira Bay, famed for the high numbers of manta

rays which congregate here. Of the various

superb beaches on the island, the sandy Sukuji

and Sunset beaches are our favourites, as many

of the others are coral beaches which are less

comfortable to relax on.

Foreign visitors in the Yaeyama Islands are few

and far between, making travel here a little more

challenging for non-Japanese speakers but you

will be rewarded with a true Japanese

experience in return. It is also worth noting that

whilst the beaches easily rival those in other

parts of the world, the accommodation is basic.

Taketomi Island

Taketomi is a small island lying just southwest of

Ishigaki, from where it can easily be visited as a

day trip. The appeal of the island is its traditional

character: old-fashioned Ryukyu architecture

endures with red, clay-tiled roofs topping

volcanic stone walls; and buffalo carts are the

main mode of transport along the island’s

picturesque, narrow lanes. Taketomi’s three main

beaches are among the best in all Okinawa:

Kondoi is a remarkable expanse of white sand

and turquoise water, while Kaijihama and

Aiyaruhama are both ‘star sand’ beaches, made

not of sand at all but the shells of thousands of

tiny crustaceans.

Maehama Beach, Miyako Island

Manta ray, Kabira Bay, Ishigaki Island

Farmer, Taketomi Island

34

Resplendent throughout the year, Japan’s

landscape takes on a different character as the

months progress. Each of the distinct seasons

offers something new and remarkable to the

beauty of the area, but although each season

has its draws, it is spring with its ephemeral

cherry blossom that brings visitors flooding to

Japan every year.

SpringThere is a phrase in Japanese, sakura zensen,

meaning cherry blossom front, which

describes the blossom’s movement from the

tip of Okinawa in early February all the way to

the most northerly cape of Hokkaido by the

end of May. The peak viewing time in Kyoto

and Tokyo is from the end of March to the

middle of April. To spend a lazy afternoon

wandering through Tokyo’s Ueno Park or

Kyoto’s Maruyama Park is to truly understand

just how much, and why, the Japanese love

this delicate and transient flower. Spring

temperatures range from the decidedly chilly

to warm and pleasant, with showers common

throughout March and into April.

SummerIn the summer months of June, July and

August the air becomes stickier and heavy

and the temperatures move steadily higher.

Japan’s rainy season typically occurs in late

June and July on the mainland and with it

comes humidity of more than 80%, with

temperatures nudging 40C (104F) on some

days. It is, however, possible to escape the

heat and humidity by heading for Japan’s

mountains or coast, so you need not melt in

the cities. Summer also brings with it a host of

colourful local festivals, particularly in the

cooler Tohoku region. A whirl of dancing,

music and beautiful traditional costumes,

these are superb celebrations to experience.

AutumnBy September temperatures start to cool

but the sun continues to shine, making this a

good time of year to visit. The subtle red and

gold hues of the autumn colours start to

appear in Hokkaido in late September and

then travel south to Kyoto and Tokyo by

mid-November. Autumn is a glorious time to

be in Japan as the countryside blazes with the

fiery reds and dazzling oranges of the turning

leaves of the indigenous momiji maple tree.

The climate is temperate and dry and since

the colours cover great swathes of the

mainland, there are plenty of opportunities to

take in this beauty, either while hiking through

the Japanese Alps, admiring scenic Miyajima

Island or strolling through the quiet back

streets of Kyoto.

WinterWinter in Hokkaido stretches from late

October through to March and Siberian

weather fronts bring icy cold winds and heavy

snowfall. On the mainland the winter months

are December, January and February, with

snowfall in Tohoku and the Japanese Alps

region, but a relatively mild climate in Kyoto,

Hiroshima, Shikoku and Kyushu. Crisp air,

clear blue skies and dry weather mean that

winter shouldn’t be a barrier to travel in Japan.

Even in Hokkaido there is plenty to do during

the coldest months, from birdwatching in

Kushiro and Sapporo’s Snow Festival in

February to world-class skiing until April or

May. From snowy castle landscapes and

glittering lamp-lit shrines to warm sake and

piping hot bowls of ramen in bustling

restaurants, Japan takes on a different, more

excitable air in winter. When

it snows there really is nothing better than

sitting in a rotemburo hot spring bath as the

snowflakes land softly on your head and

steam rises all around you.Dancing at a summer festival, Tohoku

Japanese seasons

Himeji Castle, near Kyoto

Autumn colours, KyotoPicnics under the cherry blossom

35

Tailoring your trip

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that

work particularly well. We can use these as a

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely

different itinerary to suit your tastes and

interests. Please call one of our Japan specialists

to start planning your itinerary.

T 01993 838 210

Getting around

Because of the nature of this part of Japan, you

are likely to use several different modes of

transport. You can access Kyushu and Shikoku by

either train or plane but once there, it makes

sense on both islands to pick up a hire car to

explore the national parks, hot springs and

remote regions. There is also the option of public

transport on Kyushu and Shikoku if you don’t

plan on straying too far from the main areas; the

bullet train runs as far south as Kagoshima on

Kyushu and there is an excellent public bus

network on Shikoku. To get to the Okinawa

Archipelago you will need to fly to Naha on

Okinawa Honto, then connect to Miyako or

Ishigaki Island if you are travelling onwards. Once

on your desigated Okinawan island, again you

may find a hire car useful if you plan on exploring

beyond the beaches.

When to go

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

~ 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 ~ 3 3 3 3 3 3 ~ 3 3 The best time to travel.

3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.

~ Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.

The weather in Southern Japan tends to be

warmer than that of Central and Northern

Japan, particularly in Okinawa. Temperatures

here vary from 18-35C (64-95F) with showers

and typhoons common throughout August,

September and October. In Kyushu and Shikoku

spring and autumn are typically the best times of

year to visit, while Okinawa is at its best in spring

and summer.

Time difference: GMT+9 hours

Prices

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices

for your trip to Japan on our website,

alternatively please call our specialists to discuss

your plans.

Suggested itineraries

Kyushu self-driveExplore the main highlights of the beautiful island of Kyushu, experiencing its most scenic landscapes as well as visiting the historically rich towns of Kumamoto, Nagasaki and the tiny Chiran, home to ancient samurai residences.

Day 1 Arrive in Fukuoka. Spend the rest of the day relaxing.

Day 2 Pick up your hire car and drive to the onsen town of Kurokawa.

Day 3 At leisure to enjoy the hot spring spas of Kurokawa.

Day 4 Travel south to the sheer limestone cliffs of Takachiho Gorge.

Day 5 Explore the river at your leisure.

Day 6 Drive south to Ibusuki and spend the evening unwinding in a sand bath.

Day 7 Continue your drive to Kirishima National Park, stopping off en route at Chiran.

Day 8 Enjoy some hiking in the national park.

Day 9 Drive to Kagoshima and drop off your hire car then board the train to Kumamoto.

Day 10 Explore the magnificent castle and gardens.

Day 11 Pick up a hire car and drive to Nagasaki via the hot spring town of Unzen.

Day 12 Spend the day exploring the Peace Park and Atomic Bomb Museum of Nagasaki.

Day 13 Visit Gunkanjima, otherwise known as Battleship Island.

Day 14 Return to Fukuoka via Okawachiyama, famed for its pottery.

Day 15 Fly to Tokyo for a night in the capital.

Day 16 Head to the airport for your onward flight.

Temples & festivals in ShikokuShikoku may be a small island but it offers a wealth of sightseeing opportunities from vibrant city life to off-the-beaten-track wilderness and adventure. Shikoku is accessed by road over the spectacular Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge and, starting in the east, you visit the towns of Takamatsu and Tokushima before travelling on to the quiet Iya Valley, finishing in the hot spring town of Matsuyama.

Day 1 Arrive in Osaka.

Day 2 Take a bus to Tokushima, across the world’s longest suspension bridge.

Day 3 Explore Tokushima, including the Awa Odori dance festival museum.

Day 4 Take the train from Tokushima to Takamatsu and explore the town, including the beautiful Ritsurin Garden.

Day 5 Take the ferry across to Naoshima Island to explore the modern art museums and collections.

Day 6 Pick up your hire car and drive to the secluded Iya Valley in the heart of Shikoku.

Day 7 Explore the area and perhaps try some white water rafting in the afternoon.

Day 8 Take the train to Matsuyama on the west of the island.

Day 9 Explore Matsuyama, including the castle and Dogo Onsen hot spring.

Day 10 Take the train to Okayama, back on Honshu, and explore the excellent Kourakuen Garden. Continue on to Tokyo in the afternoon.

Day 11 Travel to the airport for your onward flight.

www.audleytravel.com/japan • 01993 838 210 • Southern Japan

To TokyoFukuoka

Kurokawa

Takachiho Gorge

Kirishima National Park

Ibusuki

Chiran

Kagoshima

Kumamoto

Nagasaki

Okawachiyama Kyushu

Osaka

TokushimaIya Valley

Matsuyama

Okayama

To Tokyo

Takamatsu

hONshu

shIKOKu

Naoshima Island

5

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Kushiro

Sounkyo

FuranoSapporo

Niseko

BieiAsahidake

Hakodate

Aomori

Nyuto Onsen

HirosakiHirosaki

AkitaKakunodate

Sendai

Matsushima

Nikko

JAPANHONSHU

HOKKAIDO

DewaSanzan

LakeTowada

LakeTazawa

Sea

of J

apan

DaisetsuzanNational Park

AkanNational Park

Shikotsu-ToyaNational Park

ShiretokoNational Park

0 100 miles

0 161 kilometres

37

1 Daisetsuzan National ParkThe rugged scenery and vivid

colours of this national park

provide excellent hiking

opportunities.

See page 41

2 BirdwatchingThe red-crowned cranes

perform spectacular mating

rituals in the wetlands of

Kushiro during February.

See page 40

3 Shiretoko National ParkWatch out for brown bears

and other native wildlife in

wild Shiretoko.

See page 41

4 Sapporo Snow FestivalIn early February, Sapporo’s

Odori-koen Park is filled with

giant ice sculptures.

See page 40

5 SkiingTake to the slopes in Furano

or Niseko on world-class

powder snow.

See page 40

6 Dewa SanzanClimb the 2,446 steps up

Haguro-san, one of Dewa

Sanzan’s three holy mountains

to be blessed by a Buddhist

priest amid ancient cedar trees.

See page 38

7 Nyuto OnsenBathe in an outdoor hot spring,

particularly atmospheric in

winter with snow falling

around you.

See page 39

Summer FestivalsMarvel at the costumes,

colours, music and energy of

the Nebuta, Tanabata and

Kanto festivals in Tohoku.

See page 38

Northern Japan

Audley in Northern Japan

Public transport in Northern Japan is not as

comprehensive as in other parts of the

country, so for this reason we recommend

that you self-drive. Our first-hand

knowledge of the routes makes this an easy

option and enables you to discover remote

mountain and countryside regions, where

the pace of life is slower. We can tailor your

itinerary to include one of Northern Japan’s

festivals, or if you are a wildlife enthusiast,

plan your itinerary around the perfect spot

from which to view rare birds. We can also

provide ski guides should you be travelling

during the winter months and are interested

in taking part in some winter sports.

Accommodation

Accommodation in Northern Japan varies

quite considerably. Around the national park

and lake resorts there are many large hotels

catering for domestic tour groups. Although

they attempt to recreate the atmosphere of

a traditional ryokan, they offer both

Western and Japanese style rooms. All

rooms are en suite but there are also shared

bathing facilities known as ofuro which are

used for relaxation in the evening. Dining is

mostly on a half-board basis with a buffet for

both breakfast and evening meals, and the

quality of the food is usually extremely good.

Smaller boutique properties and intimate

ryokans are harder to come by, although we

have discovered a few which we will be

happy to recommend.

1

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45

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Daisetsuzan National Park

NOrTHerN JAPAN IS KNOWN FOr ITS NATurAl BeAuTy, abundant hot springs, countless

festivals and, in the winter months, excellent winter sports opportunities. The climate here is

cooler than in the rest of Japan, offering an escape from the sweltering summer days on the mainland

and the chance to explore the region’s numerous national parks. The far northern region of Honshu is

known as Tohoku, an area that the Japanese equate with a slower, more traditional way of life. Tohoku’s

highlights include beautiful hot spring resorts, vibrant summer festivals, remote Buddhist temples and

numerous scenic lakes that are best seen against the spectacular backdrop of the changing autumn

leaves. Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost island, has the country’s highest concentration of national parks

and wide roads ideal for self-drive itineraries. Summer in Hokkaido brings with it ample opportunity for

walking and the chance to view some of the spectacular flora of the island. In winter, some of the

world’s best powder snow can be experienced at the resorts of Niseko and Furano, and rare birdlife

spotted along the coastlines and in the wetlands.

www.audleytravel.com/japan • 01993 838 210 • Northern Japan

Red-crowned cranes, Kushiro

Monks at Dewa Sanzan

38

Steps to Haguro-san Shrine, Dewa Sanzan

Tohoku

Tohoku refers to the northern, ruggedly

mountainous part of Honshu, where rural

traditions have survived longer than in other

parts of the country. Much of Tohoku was once

volcanic and a number of scenic crater lakes and

countless natural onsen resorts can be found in

the region. Characterised by its splendid and

varied scenery, northern Honshu offers wild,

rugged coastline, densely forested volcanic

mountains and picturesque rice fields, and its

spectacular seasonal changes are celebrated with

numerous festivals. Due to its northerly position,

spring arrives here later than in Central and

Southern Japan, with the cherry trees blossoming

from late April into early May. The autumn

leaves, on the other hand, begin changing earlier

than elsewhere, in October.

Matsushima & Sendai

Tohoku’s largest and most cosmopolitan city,

Sendai is home to the spectacular annual

Tanabata Festival, held each August. Although

the city has few key sights, it makes a good base

for exploring the region’s more southerly

highlights. The picturesque pine-clad islands of

Matsushima Bay, designated as one of Japan’s

three great sights, are also within easy reach.

A leisurely boat trip here allows visitors to

experience the magical scenery that is said to

have left Bassho, Japan’s foremost poet,

speechless.

Dewa Sanzan

Dewa Sanzan is the collective name for the

three holy mountains of Haguro-san, Gas-san

and Yudono-san. These are actually three peaks

of an extinct volcano, which sit shrouded in

ancient cedar trees and surrounded by prolific

rice fields, making it an excellent area for hiking.

The mountains gained their sacred status over

1,400 years ago after the son of the reigning

emperor made a pilgrimage to the area to

practise severe ascetic religious exercises, which

later became the founding principles of Shugendo

Buddhism.

Shugendo is an ancient blend of esoteric

Buddhism, Chinese Taoism and Shinto deity

worship and is practised by the Yamabushi

monks, who strongly link their religious practices

with the physical nature of the mountains in

which they live. The Yamabushi are easily

recognisable thanks to their distinctive garb of

checked overshirts, billowing white trousers,

straw sandals and small, peaked hats. The monks

are now scattered all over the three mountains

but you may see them at one of the many

temples in the area or scurrying up the slopes.

Dewa Sanzan is best explored over a number of

days as there are some strenuous climbs, but if

you have less time we recommend a shorter two

hour ascent to the top of either Haguro-san or

Gas-san.

Matsushima Bay

Tanabata Festival, Sendai

39www.audleytravel.com/japan • 01993 838 210 • Northern Japan

Hinokinaigawa River, Kakunodate

Kakunodate

A quiet, former castle town and samurai

stronghold, Kakunodate is enclosed on three

sides by mountains. While the castle no longer

remains, a large number of samurai houses have

survived, making it one of the best places in

Japan to view this old style of residence.

Traditional shrines, temples and merchants’

storehouses are also dotted around the town,

giving Kakunodate an authentic old-world

atmosphere. The Hinokinaigawa River runs

through the town and is lined with cherry trees

for two kilometres, making it a very pleasant

place to walk. In spring, blossom blankets the

riverbanks, creating a spectacular tunnel of

flowers that has led to it being designated a

national beauty spot.

Many traditional events are held throughout the

year in Kakunodate. If you come at the right time

you can enjoy some of these: the Sakura Matsuri

(cherry blossom festival) in spring; the Sasara-mai

(dance) in summer, in which people dance while

they rhythmically rub two sasara (bamboo

whisks) together; the stirring Oyama Matsuri in

autumn, which includes a procession of floats

and colourful lanterns; and the Hiburi Kamakura

in winter, in which a straw bag on the end of a

rope is set afire and swung around to pray for

good health.

Lake Tazawa

Just to the north of Kakunodate is Lake Tazawa,

Japan’s deepest lake. In winter, this region lies

beneath metres of snow but the lake never

freezes, thanks, according to local legend, to the

fiery dragon which lives beneath the surface.

The area directly surrounding Lake Tazawa is

home to various secluded onsen villages such as

Aoni and Nyuto, which offer excellent hot spring

bathing opportunities, particularly atmospheric in

winter when the ground is covered in snow.

Hirosaki & Lake Towada

Politically and culturally important during the Edo

Period, Hirosaki is now a fairly quiet city with a

rich cultural heritage. Its most prominent feature

is its castle, which was rebuilt in 1810 having been

previously destroyed by fire. This three storey

keep is surrounded by moats and sits within a

large park, which is regarded as Tohoku’s top

cherry blossom spot in spring. Several thousand

cherry trees are located within the park, which

create a magical fairytale scene when they are all

in blossom. Only an hour and a half ’s drive from

Hirosaki is Lake Towada, the largest caldera lake

on Honshu and one of the island’s most scenic

settings. Towada is hugely popular with local

visitors during koyo, the autumn colour season.

This begins in mid-October, when the beech and

maple-clad hillsides of the nearby Oirase Valley

turn spectacular shades of gold and crimson.

Tsurunoyu Ryokan, Nyuto Onsen, TohokuThe Tsurunoyu is the oldest and most authentic

ryokan in the area. It is truly enchanting with an

excellent outdoor onsen and traditional food

consisting of local mountain vegetables and fish

cooked over a small irori fire pit. There are

several baths at the Tsurunoyu, each fed by a

different source of water, with a large outdoor

mixed-sex bath, which the brave are welcome

to try.

Lake Tazawa

Tsurunoyu Ryokan, Nyuto Onsen

Hirosaki Castle

40

Shikotsu-Toya National Park, Hokkaido

Hokkaido

The second largest and northernmost of Japan’s

four main islands, Hokkaido is home to just 5%

of Japan’s population and is arguably its wildest,

most unspoiled island. Blessed with stunning

natural scenery carved by the elements and

sculpted by ongoing volcanic activity, the island is

dotted with national parks which protect these

dramatic landscapes. From the picturesque

caldera lakes of Shikotsu-Toya to the rugged

wilderness of the bear-haunted Shiretoko

Peninsula, each has a plethora of wildlife and

offers outstanding walking options.

Hokkaido is also the heartland of the indigenous

Ainu people and mainlanders did not arrive and

settle here until the 1600s. Although the trade

links gave the Ainu an opportunity for wealth

and commerce, the influx of people was

ultimately their undoing as they were persecuted

and forced out of their homelands. During this

time the Ainu were forced to learn Japanese,

adopt Japanese names and to cease religious

practices such as animal sacrifice and the custom

of tattooing. Not until 2008 were the Ainu

officially recognised as an indigenous group.

There are a number of museums which

document this history and are a good place to

learn about this dwindling culture.

Sapporo & Hakodate

Hokkaido’s bright, cosmopolitan capital, Sapporo,

is well-endowed with gardens and parks and

makes the perfect base from which to head out

and explore the island. Each February the city

welcomes visitors to the wonderful Sapporo

Snow Festival, an ice-sculpting extravaganza on

an epic scale. Northeast of Sapporo lie the

pretty flower fields around Biei and Furano,

which, along with Niseko to the west, become

excellent ski resorts in the winter. Further south,

separated from the mainland by the narrow

Tsugaru Straits, is the charming port town of

Hakodate. The intriguing mixture of Japanese and

Western architecture here gives it an

unexpectedly international atmosphere. The

town is best appreciated by taking a cable car to

the summit of Mount Hakodate at dusk and

watching as the sparkling lights of the town

radiate out into the distance.

Akan National Park

Akan National Park in the east of Hokkaido is

centred around several volcanoes and crater

lakes. Lake Akan, well known in Japan for its

unique ‘marimo’ algae which form in a spherical

shape and can grow to be as large as footballs, is

now a National Natural Monument. The lake is

surrounded by volcanic mountains, thick forests

and bubbling mud pools. The three main

volcanoes in the park, Mount Meakan, Oakan

and Akan-Fuji, have shaped the landscape with

their eruptions, creating hot springs and fertile

soils, which in turn have allowed vast forests to

thrive. Excellent walking trails of all lengths and

difficulties abound. The best panoramic views are

from Lake Kussharo, which is an interesting place

to visit due to the scenic beauty of the area, and

for the nearby Kotan Ainu Folk Museum, which

exhibits the customs, lifestyles and traditions of

the indigenous Ainu people.

Kushiro Wetlands

Established in 1987, the Kushiro Wetlands are

Japan’s newest national park. The area is

characterised by vast areas of reeds surrounding

a central moorland, dissected by multiple

tributaries of the Kushiro-gawa River, which

snakes its way through the park to the sea. The

park supports a huge biodiversity, including the

red-crowned crane, one of Japan’s national

symbols.Picking lavender, Hokkaido

41www.audleytravel.com/japan • 01993 838 210 • Northern Japan

Mount Asahidake, Daisetsuzan National Park

Ezo brown bear, Shiretoko National Park

Sounkyo Gorge

Daisetsuzan National Park

The island’s largest national park, Daisetsuzan has

16 volcanic peaks over 2,000 metres in altitude,

and a wide variety of hiking trails for every level

of fitness. The park is also well-known for its

wildlife, which includes several rare species and

the notoriously shy brown bear. Numerous hot

spring towns are scattered around the park,

among the best of which are Kogen, Tenninkyo,

Asahidake, Tokachidake and Sounkyo. Each has

excellent hot spring bathing facilities set against

remarkable natural backdrops. Autumn is a

popular time to visit the park due to the

kaleidoscopic array of colours across the slopes,

which appear far earlier than they do further

south. The Ginsendai Trail to Mount Akadake in

particular offers both vibrant colours and

fantastic vistas.

Sounkyo

Sounkyo Gorge is an area of striking natural

beauty with sheer rock walls, craggy outcrops

and magnificent views over the rest of the park.

Sounkyo is also densely forested and can be

wonderfully photogenic at any time of year,

whether in the snow, amongst the fresh vibrancy

of spring or the stunning display of autumn

colours. The cable car and chairlift which lead

from the town of Sounkyo Onsen towards the

summit of Mount Kurodake offer the best views

and give you an idea of the vastness of

Daisetsuzan National Park. Sounkyo also has a

number of spectacular waterfalls which give rise

to the tumbling rivers that run through the gorge.

A series of beautiful and easy riverside walks

follow the gorge to reach these falls.

Asahidake

The small town of Asahidake sits at the foot of

Daisetsuzan’s highest peak, Mount Asahidake,

and is the ideal base for exploring the park. The

town is thoughtfully landscaped, and offers a

number of pleasant strolls along wooded trails

between the hotels and guesthouses. Popular

year round, the town makes a great base for

hiking in summer with the Asahidake Ropeway

(cable car) offering easy access to the high level

hiking trails above the town. In winter the slopes

are transformed into pistes, and skiers flock here

to test their skills. Whatever level of activity you

enjoy, this is a very relaxing spot to come and

appreciate such brilliant scenery, and the relative

inaccessibility of the area means it is mercifully

less cluttered by the usual tour bus traffic than

other parts of the island.

Shiretoko National Park

Japan’s wildest region, Shiretoko is one of the

least accessible and least explored parts of the

country. Shiretoko means ‘the end of the earth’

in the local Ainu language, and when you finally

arrive on this peninsula in the far east of

Hokkaido you will be rewarded with a pristine

landscape and a wealth of wildlife. The

northernmost part of this peninsula does not

have any roads, so can only be accessed on a

sightseeing boat or by several days’ walking.

This has left Shiretoko’s primeval forests, volcanic

rocks and countless impressive waterfalls

untouched, and sea eagles, Steller’s sea lions and

brown bears thrive here. Perhaps the best way

to explore the park is on foot, by basing yourself

in the port town and onsen resort of Utoro,

from where hiking trails through the forests and

into the mountains begin. You can also take a

boat tour from Utoro, a great way to see some

of the park’s otherwise inaccessible wildlife and

scenery. Further north from Utoro is Shiretoko

Goko, a series of five small, jewel-like lakes set

amid an astonishingly beautiful landscape.

Daisetsuzan National Park

Bathing in a natural onsen, Akan National Park Kushiro Wetlands

Wildlife & hot springs of HokkaidoFor those seeking out the wilder side of Japan, this comprehensive self-drive tour explores Hokkaido’s splendid national parks. Hike in the high mountains of Daisetsuzan, watch out for bears along the Shiretoko Peninsula, and savour the wide, open spaces.

Day 1 Arrive in Tokyo and begin exploring the city.

Day 2 Explore some of the city’s highlights with a guide or at your own pace.

Day 3 Take the short flight to Kushiro in eastern Hokkaido. Drive to the Akan National Park via the wetlands.

Day 4 Explore Lake Akan by boat to enjoy the lake and mountain scenery.

Day 5 Drive northeast to the Shiretoko National Park.

Day 6 Explore the beautiful landscape of Shiretoko. Take a boat trip along the peninsula, hike in the woods or simply drive along open roads.

Day 7 Drive from Shiretoko to Daisetsuzan National Park. Spend the night in the small town of Sounkyo.

Day 8 After a morning exploring Sounkyo drive to Asahidake, at the foot of Mount Asahidake.

Day 9 Walk around Mount Asahidake.

Day 10 Visit the pretty town of Biei by car, returning to Asahidake in the afternoon.

Day 11 Drive to Sapporo and explore this cosmopolitan city in the afternoon.

Day 12 Explore Sapporo further, or venture out to the lavender fields of Furano.

Day 13 Fly back to Tokyo and spend your final afternoon at leisure.

Day 14 Travel to the airport for your onward flight.

Tohoku DiscoveredThis fascinating itinerary offers the chance to escape the crowds and explore a magical area of Japan rarely seen by overseas visitors. The region blends ancient culture and spectacular scenery. Travel by train or hire car to explore the clear lakes, deep forests and secluded inns of Japan’s best kept secret.

Day 1 Arrive in Tokyo and begin your exploration of this exciting city.

Day 2 Explore at your own pace or take a privately guided tour of the highlights.

Day 3 Take the train out to Nikko and visit the Toshogu Shrine complex.

Day 4 Explore Lake Chuzenji and the Kegon Falls.

Day 5 Take the bullet train to Matsushima and then cruise on the beautiful bay.

Day 6 Travel by bullet train to Hachinohe then pick up a hire car and continue your journey on to Lake Towada.

Day 7 Explore Lake Towada and the Oirase Gorge.

Day 8 Drive from Lake Towada to the rural Nyuto Onsen hot spring resort.

Day 9 Relax at Nyuto in the morning then drive to Kakunodate via the crystal clear Lake Tazawa.

Day 10 Explore Kakunodate’s samurai district and then drive to Dewa Sanzan. Spend the night in simple temple lodgings.

Day 11 Climb Mount Haguro-san’s 2,446 stone steps to the temple at the summit.

Day 12 Ascend Mount Gas-san, a hike of around two to three hours, to be blessed at the summit by a Yamabushi Buddhist priest.

Day 13 Drive to the small town of Tsuruoka and then return by train to Tokyo.

Day 14 Onward flight from Tokyo.

42

Tailoring your trip

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that

work particularly well. We can use these as a

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely

different itinerary to suit your tastes and

interests. Please call one of our Japan specialists

to start planning your itinerary.

T 01993 838 210

Getting around

Although much of Tohoku and Hokkaido are

accessible by public transport, we recommend

hiring a car as this provides more freedom and

flexibility and the chance to experience sights not

easily reached by bus or train. With most road

signs in both Japanese and English and satellite

navigation equipment provided in all vehicles,

self-driving is an easy option.

When to go

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Q 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Q 3 3 The best time to travel.

3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.

~ Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.

Q Snow or ski season.

Northern Japan can be visited year round,

although it is necessary to be prepared for heavy

snowfall and low temperatures in the winter

months of December to April, which can make

driving a challenge. The summer brings with it a

slightly cooler climate than Southern Japan and in

autumn the temperature begins to drop, but it is

nonetheless a pleasant time to travel due the

spectacular autumn leaves.

Time difference: GMT+9 hours

Prices

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline

prices for your trip to Japan on our website,

alternatively please call our specialists to discuss

your plans.

Lake Towada, near Hirosaki

Suggested itineraries

Tokyo

Nikko

Matsushima

Lake Towada

Nyuto OnsenKakunodate

Dewa Sanzan

To Tokyo

Kushiro

Akan National Park

Shiretoko National Park

SounkyoAsahidake

Daisetsuzan National ParkSapporo

Tokyo

43Useful information

Visit our offices

If you would like to discuss your travel

arrangements in person we welcome

personal visits, please call in advance to

arrange an appointment with one or more of

our country specialists. Our offices are at the

New Mill, a 17th century converted wool mill

on the outskirts of Witney, ten miles west

of Oxford on the edge of the Cotswolds.

We also have an office in West London if

this is more convenient for you.

www.audleytravel.com/visit-us

www.audleytravel.com

Our website is packed with

information, features and advice

covering all our destinations

across the globe. On the site you can

browse by theme, special interest or

region as well as viewing additional

accommodation options and itineraries

that are not featured in this brochure. You

can download all our brochures online or

contact us via the website where there is

the option to tell us about your plans so

that we can start tailoring your itinerary.

Useful information

Senso-ji Temple, Asakusa

Contact us

Address:

Audley Travel, New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney,

Oxfordshire OX29 9SX, United Kingdom.

Telephone: 01993 838 210

Email: japan@audleytravel.com

London Office:

Audley Travel, Monsoon Building,

1 Nicholas Road, London W11 4AN,

United Kingdom.

Group tours

As well as tailor-made travel in Japan, we

recognise that sometimes the most social and

worry-free way to travel is in a group. We offer

group tours up to a maximum of 16 people

around the two most popular times of the year;

cherry blossom in spring and falling leaves in

autumn. Travelling on an escorted small group

tour is the most cost-effective way of journeying

through Japan with an experienced guide for the

entire duration. The group tours use a mixture

of private transport and the excellent and speedy

Japan Rail network.

Flights

A number of airlines fly directly to Japan from

London Heathrow. We choose from these

airlines based on current airfares and taxes, your

preference for travel and your itinerary.

Connecting flights from regional UK airports can

also be arranged. There are also several airlines

which fly indirectly to Tokyo Narita, Osaka and

Fukuoka international airports which may offer a

more convenient option for your travels.

Terms & Conditions and Travel Insurance

Your booking is subject to the terms and

conditions of Audley Travel which are detailed

in the booking form. It is vital that you have

adequate travel insurance and we are able to

offer a number of policies either for the duration

of your trip or on an annual basis.

AITO Membership

Audley is a member of the

Association of Independent Tour

Operators. The Association represents Britain’s

leading independent tour operators and

encourages high standards of quality and service.

Audley abides by the Assocation’s Code of

Conduct and adheres to the AITO Quality

Charter which can be viewed at www.aito.com

Photography in this brochure

We would like to thank the following

photographers and organisations for the images

used in this brochure:

Alamy, Audley staff, clients and suppliers,

AWL images, iStockphoto, Jamie Marshall,

Robert Harding, Superstock.

All images used in this brochure were obtained

in good faith by Audley Travel Group Limited

and in the belief that all necessary consents and

clearances were obtained for their use. For any

queries relating to photography please contact

us on 01993 838 040.

Honeymoons

A honeymoon in Japan is an excellent option

for couples looking to combine culture and

relaxation. Although quite an active destination

to visit, Japan’s wealth of luxury and traditional

accommodation, private hot spring bathing,

quiet beach resorts, wonderful cuisine and

privately guided excursions can all combine to

create a perfect honeymoon.

Responsible travel

We care deeply about the places we travel to,

and we work hard to ensure your visit has a

positive effect. We seek out experiences and

places to stay which mirror our passion, and

invariably we find that these are the most

rewarding. Wherever we can, we use local

people and businesses as our partners in

destinations. Not not only do we feel this gives

you the best experience, it also brings benefits

to local communities. The benefit also spreads

further. Local people are motivated to preserve

what attracts visitors, be it the culture, wildlife

or environment. Conversely, we actively avoid

‘tourist traps’. The carbon footprint of flying is

relatively large and we’d encourage you to

carbon offset your flights.

New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 9SX, United Kingdom

Telephone: 01993 838 210 • Fax: 01993 838 010

Email: japan@audleytravel.com • Website: www.audleytravel.com

This brochure has been printed on paper from well managed forests, approved by the Forest Stewardship Council ,® using

vegetable inks. Our printer holds ISO 14001 and FSC® environmental certifications. Should you wish to dispose of your

brochure, we kindly request that you recycle it. The paper used in this brochure has also been carbon balanced.