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UPPS FASHIONModerator: Lucie Huiskens | CLICKNL|NextFashion, ArtEZ
INTRO: WHAT’S UPPS?Lucie Huiskens | CLICKNL|NextFashion, ArtEZ
Filmpje• 2-3minuten
Partners
Activities Fieldlab UPPS?• Create awarenessabout UPPS
• Stimulate Research&Innovation Projects– Consultancy
– Networking&connecting
– MIT-Vouchers(still some available!)
10.00 – 11:00 What’s UPPS in fashion?
11:00 – 11:30 Break
11.30 – 12:30 What’s UPPS in health?
12:30 – 13:30 Break
Fitting fashion over the internetHein Daanen | VU Amsterdam
• About13%offashionissold overthe internetinNL
• This number increases steadily
• Since the customercannot fitthe garment,several
garment sizes aregenerally submitted
• Howcan weknow the bodydimensions ofthe
customerso that wecan send the correctgarment
size??
Societal challenge
• Name:PassendemodeviaInternet
• Support:RAAK.MKB04.004
• Leader:AmsterdamUniversityofAppliedSciences
• Timeframe:october1,2016– september30,2018
• Totalfunding602kEur
• 300kEurRaak
• 225kEurParticipants
• 77kEurAppliedUniversities
ProjectFittingfashionoverthe Internet
Participantspartners contactpersoon functie soortpartner expertise/betrokkenheidAssembl3D MaartenVerkoren eigenaar bedrijf 3DprintenvankledingBivolino MichelByvoet eigenaar bedrijf overhemdenenbloezenopmaatClick-NextFashion LucieHuiskens medewerker belangenorganisatie coordinatoronderzoekNLFashionTexBV DoretteHibbert eigenaar bedrijf 3DvirtualdesignEdolly DavidUhlenbroich eigenaar bedrijf maatvoeringmetscanningElitac JasperDijkman medewerker bedrijf virtualrealitysuitsopmaatEmaldo PeterVeltman eigenaar bedrijf kinectvoorvirtueelpassenFashionEvolutionB.V. SeppeMeinders eigenaar bedrijf portalvoorkledingverkoopFashionFitr RobertJanLugtenborg oprichter bedrijf kledingmaatconversieHvA-financieelexpert MaartenRottschafer deskundigefinanciering onderwijs/onderzoeksinstelling financienHvA-lectoraatcrossmedia HarryvanVliet lector onderwijs/onderzoeksinstelling retail/internetsalesHvA-lectoraatFR&T HeinDaanen lector onderwijs/onderzoeksinstelling maatvoeringKPUbedrijfDefensie HenkReulink hoofdonderzoek bedrijf 3DantropometrieenlogistiekMaanFashion MaanKetterings eigenaar bedrijf kledingpatronenMimicMedia XavierBaars eigenaar bedrijf virtuelepaspopModana RonaldvdVijver eigenaar bedrijf handschoenenopmaatModint RensTap medewerker brancheorganisatie kledingmarktPinccBV JanLangelaar eigenaar bedrijf adviesbureauPoikos EleonorWatson eigenaar bedrijf maatvoeringmetsmartphonesSaxion-lectoraalambientintelligence WouterTeeuw lector onderwijs/onderzoeksinstelling shoppingconceptenSizeBuddy LexdeGrijs eigenaar bedrijf pluginmetmensmatenKnitwearlab ThijsVerhaar eigenaar bedrijf breienRosannevanderMeer RosannevanderMeer eigenaar bedrijf breienSting WillemWijnen ChiefMarketing&E-commerceOffice bedrijf retailermetwebsiteThemakers BeauvanGils eigenaar bedrijf maaktkledingTKT TimmeLucassen projectmanager brancheorganisatie textielserviceTMO ChrisvanVeldhuizen opleidingsmanager onderwijs/onderzoeksinstelling opleidingTNO FrankterHaar wet.Medewerker onderzoeksinstelling 3DscanprocessingTUD JohanMolenbroek ass.Professor onderwijs/onderzoeksinstelling 3DscanningWehkamp JeroenTeunissen creativedirector bedrijf postorderbedrijfZoranaKozomara ZoranaKozomara eigenaar bedrijf maatvoeringkleding
Workpackages
WP1 State-of-the-artmatchedwithcompanyrequirements
WP2 Technologicalsolutions
WP2.1 Smartquestionsand3Dvisualization
WP2.2 Smartphone/tablet
WP2.3 Convertor
WP2.4 3Dscanning
WP2.5 3Dprinting/knitting
WP3 Integration
WP4 Dissimination
15
SmartQuestions
16
Smartphone/webcam
HvAproject:Evaluationofgenerated3Dbodyandderivedbodydimensions
17
Convertor
ForinstanceFashionFitrSize53ofArmanifitsmewell->Trysize52ofHugoBoss
3Dscans
19
3Dscans/virtualfitMake 3D scan
Select garment pattern
Virtual fit
20
3Dprinting/knitting
Explore possibilities
Hein Daanen
http://members.ziggo.nl/daanen
+31 686676808
Please contact us for more info
KNIT-O-MAT: A FUTURE FORHIGHTECH KNITWEAR IN HOLLANDTirza Brems & Rosanne van der Meer | Knit-o-Mat
KNIT-O-MAT: THE FUTURE FIELDLAB
K N I T T I N G D A T A & P R O T O T Y P E S
KLOKGEBOUW STAND 4.33
BUY NITTO PRODUCTSAT FRAME SHOP (KLOKGEBOUW)
BUY THE GIRL AND THE MACHINE ATWWW.ONEPLANETCROWD.COM
VIRTUAL SIZINGSimeon Morris | Virtual Sizing Norwich University of the Arts
VIRTUAL SIZINGSimeon Morris | Virtual Sizing Norwich University of the Arts
Virtual Sizing§ Project of Centre of Expertise Future Makers
(ArtEZ), with HvA / AMFI; and fashion labels A Body Issue, Be it by Jenn, and designer Simeon Morris.
§ Aim: to apply new technologies (e.g. the 3D body scan) to make much better-fitting, more comfortable and more fashionable clothing for wheelchair users and people with certain disabilities.
A Body IssueSpecial Fashion
• Katja van Groningen• Marije van der Windt• www.abodyissue.com
3D Body Scans and Sizes
§ We developed a chair to assist with 3d body scanning.
§ We used a mobile 3d scanner.
§ This 3d scan reveals the changes to the seated body.
§ Analysis of scans based on this seated position.
§ New measurements developed for creating
3d body scans captured from standing to seated position
Developing a new size chart
§ Using seated 3d body scans, we developed a brand new size chart and we compared this with current standing size charts.
§ As ready-to-wear is always about making concessions we set about creating an average size range for seated people.
Working with pattern software
§ We did this by developing an initial sample by hand and then used it to adjust the software that we use, called Grafis.
What did we change?§ How you appear to
someone else is altered when you are seated. Your proportions are changed: shorter, more squat and square.
§ In our design process we consider these altered proportions and try to design with this in mind.
§ For example, we shorten tops to elongate the figure and use V-necks to draw attention to the face.
§ We also incorporate flare towards the hips to accommodate the shape of the waist and create a more flattering silhouette.
§ For all tops the sleeves are set in differently, allowing the movement of rolling to become easier. Whether you roll or use an electric wheelchair this gives you more space to move.
§ The fold in the back of this blazer gives ease of movement and makes it more simple to put it on or off. It also falls until the lap at the front and stops just above the seat at the back.
§ The waistband of our jeans and trousers stays horizontal when you sit: it runs straight, from slightly below the navel to the back. This ensures that the seat remains free of seams except from the middle seam.
• We eliminated extra fabric from the groin to leave it free from uncomfortable folds.
• The knee area is cut to follow the shape of the leg for more comfort and aesthetic appeal.
Removable sleeve jacket
UPPSModerator: Cees Hogendoorn | Projectmanager Fieldlab UPPS
Filmpje• 2-3minuten
Partners
Activities Fieldlab UPPS?• Create awarenessabout UPPS• Stimulate Research&Innovation Projects
– Consultancy– Networking&connecting– MIT-Vouchers(still some available!)
INTRO: WHAT’S UPPS?Cees Hogendoorn | Projectmanager Fieldlab UPPS
INNOVATIVE ORTHOPEDICFOOTWEAR BY SMART INDUSTRYRick Broshuis | PLT Products
INNOVATIVE ORTHOPEDICFOOTWEAR BY SMART INDUSTRYRick Broshuis | PLT Products
www.pltproduc
ts.nl
www.pltproduc
ts.nl
HistoryP.L.T.
- Individualinsolesfabricationconventional
- Unlimitedpossibilitiesmaterialcombinations
- Digitaltranslationwith:- 3Dscanequipment- Cadsoftwareorthoticdesign- Millingtechnique- Fullcontactcorrectiveinsolespossible- Concessioninmaterialpossibilities- SMARTINDUSTRY
www.pltproduc
ts.nl
DesignProcess
www.pltproduc
ts.nl
Onlineorder
www.pltproduc
ts.nl
ProductionProcess
www.pltproduc
ts.nl
Milling SLS3DPrinting
Thestartof3DPrintingatPLTProducts.
www.pltproduc
ts.nl
- Searchingforsolutions,thatwecan’tsolveinCADCAM
- 3DShapebothsides
- Correctiveinsolesinnarrowshoes>Sport
- Tomanydisadvantagesaboutbothsidedmilling
- DecreasingwaistEVAMaterial,90%!!
ProcesSelectiveLaserSintering(SLS)
www.pltproduc
ts.nl
- Video
3DPrinting_Research
www.pltproduc
ts.nl
3DPrinting_theapplication(2)
www.pltproduc
ts.nl
Disadvantages:
- Materialcombinations
- Thinking180degrees- HANDMADE /CADCAM /3DPRINTING- Feetspecialistsareindustrialdesignerswithoutadesignbackground.
- Fragile
- WhenIthrowacomputeroutsidethewindow,whathappens?- Pricing
- Machineryandservice- Powder- Energycosts
Future
www.pltproduc
ts.nl
- Mainfocusonmedicalproducts:PodiatryandOrthopaedics
- Produce3Dprintedinsolesfor24countries
- Evidencebasedresearch,providingprotocolstothefeetspecialist-Bigchallengeforindustrialdesigners!!
Theend………….
www.pltproduc
ts.nl
Anyquestions?
APPLIED DESIGN RESEARCH FORHEALTHCARERuben Timmers | Saxion FabLab Enschede
RESEARCH GROUP
Industrial Design
• Target group centered design
• Materials and technology in design• Sustainability in Design
LEARN – MAKE – INNOVATE
Saxion FabLab Enschede
• Public Maker Space • Experiments
• Turn ideas into reality
• Regional research and education facility
• Member UPPS Fieldlab
Smart
High tech
Textiles
FabLab & UPPS
Challenge
• Professional and durable (re)design
PAINT BRUSH
PAINT BRUSH
Solutions
• Ergonomic redesign
• UPPS: re-using shape of each old brush for customization
RADIOTHERAPY
Challenge
• Radiation bolus• Increase accuracy• Apply3Dtechnologies
• UPPS: mass customization
From pilotto research
LAB ON A CHIP
Challenge:
• Lab on a chip for education
Future: beyond cleanroom for FabLabs worldwide• Lab on chip for testing:
Water quality, agriculture, blood
NEXT UPPS: RESEARCH/DESIGN QUESTIONS IN MASS CUSTOMIZATION
TOWARDS A UPPS CANVAS?Jouke Verlinden | TU DelftAssistant Professor Human-Centered Digital Fabrication.
Challenge the future
Agenda
• Intro• ExploringUltra-Personalised products• Somelessonslearnt• GenericUPPSCycle&workflow• NextUPPS?
Challenge the future
@Delft…• Digitalmanufacturingresearchsince1994
• Atpresent:teamof9researchers@IDE
• minoronadvancedprototyping(Plm 350alumni)
• Makerlunch:everyWednesdayinourlab!
Challenge the future
Challenge the future
UPPSworkflow:3Dprintedear
• Inthiscase:Burnvictims• Finalproduct:CartilageandSkin
TogetherwithVUmc (Ernst-JanBos)
Challenge the future
Reconstructionofcartilage(trad.)
Challenge the future
Parameterizedscaffolds
Challenge the future
Challenge the future
Somelessonslearnt…
Settingupultra-personalised productsandservicesisapainfulprocesswithlotsoftechnicalchallenges
• Accesstoenablingtechnologiesisanecessity• Butgettingtheworkflowrightisessential• Disciplinaryskillsaugmenttheinterdisciplinaryvalue• Developmentmethodsshouldbelearntfromsoftwareengineering(agile,versioning,…)
Challenge the future
UPPScycle
TroyNachtigall,TUe Doubrovski,TUD Belousov-Zhabotinsky
Challenge the future
UPPSworkflow
• Roles,Skills,Responsibilities?
• Designalgorithms&computationalfabrication?
• Robustness,Certification,upscaling?
Challenge the future
NextUPPS?
ReliablePersonalisedManufacturing
Person-CenteredDesignAutomation
ControlinCo-designProcesses
NextUPPS
• Roles,Skills,Responsibilities?
• Designalgorithms&computationalfabrication?
• Robustness,Certification,upscaling?
Challenge the future
Conclusions
• UPPSisenabledbydigitalfabrication• Notmade-by-measurebutmade-by-shape• AfullUPPScanvasisyettobedefined• Requiresinputfromdesign,engineering,computerscience,…
Challenge the future
Furtherreading• tenBhom̈er,M.,Tomico,O.,&Wensveen,S.A.G.(2015).Designingultra-personalizedembodiedsmarttextile
servicesforwellbeing.InL.VanLangenhove(Ed.),Advancesinsmartmedicaltextiles:Treatmentsandhealthmonitoring(pp.155-175).Cambridge,UK:WoodheadPublishing.
• Doubrovski,E.L.,Verlinden,J.C.,Geraedts,J.M.P.(2011)"Optimaldesignforadditivemanufacturing:opportunitiesandchallenges."ASME2011InternationalDesignEngineeringTechnicalConferencesandComputersandInformationinEngineeringConference.
• Lorenzoni,V.,Doubrovski,E.L.,andVerlinden,J.C.(2013)“Embracingthedigitalininstrumentmaking:Towardsamusician-tailoredmouthpieceby3Dprinting,”inProceedingsoftheStockholmMusicalAcousticsConference2013,Stockholm,Sweden.
• Kwok,T.,Zhang,Y.,Wang,C.C.L,Liu,Y-L.,Tang,K.(2016)"Stylingevolutionfortight-fittinggarments",IEEETransactionsonVisualizationandComputerGraphics,vol.22,no.5,pp.1580-1591.
• EssersM.S.,VanekerT.H.J.(2016)Designofadecentralizedmodulararchitectureforflexibleandextensibleproductionsystems,Mechatronics,Volume34,March2016,Pages160-169.
• Wang,C.C.L.(2005)"Parameterizationandparametricdesignofmannequins",Computer-AidedDesign,vol.37,no.1,pp.83-98.
• Wensveen,S.A.G.,Tomico,O.,tenBhom̈er,M.,&Kuusk,K.(2014).GrowthPlanforanInspirationalTest-BedofSmartTextileServices(pp.141–150).InProceedingsofthe2014ConferenceonDesigningInteractiveSystems,NewYork,NewYork,USA.
Challenge the future
Reflections&QuestionsShamelessplugs:
1November:ScienceFairAdvancedPrototyping@TUDelft
