DRIVER’S GUIDE For VEHICLE INSPECTIONS · Vehicle Inspections: ... The pretrip inspection is the...

Vehicle Inspections: Driver’s Guide

©All rights reserved. Neither this Guide nor any part thereof may be reproduced in any manner without written

permission of the NorthAmerican Transportation Association.

DRIVER’S GUIDE

For

VEHICLE INSPECTIONS




The United States Laws and Federal regulations published herein are in public domain.

Due to the constantly changing nature of government regulations, it is impossible to

guarantee absolute accuracy of the material contained herein. The NTA , therefore,

cannot assume any responsibility for omissions, errors, misprinting, or ambiguity

contained within this publication and shall not be held liable in any degree for any loss or

injury caused by such omission, error, misprinting or ambiguity presented in this

publication.

This publication is designed to provide reasonably accurate and authoritative information

in regard to the subject matter covered. It is sold with the understanding that the NTA is

not engaged in rendering legal, accounting, or other professional service. If legal advice

or other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent professional person

should be sought.




This Guide contains the following informational sections about vehicle inspections:

1. Introduction

2. Pretrip Inspections: The Pretrip Inspection Process

3. On-the-road Inspections

4. Post-trip Inspections

5. Additional Inspection Procedures for Special Rigs.

1. Introduction

Vehicle inspections are a very critical part of your job as a trucker under CSA 2010.

Some inspections are required by law, but, more importantly, they are essential for your

safety and the safety of those with whom you share the road. In addition, they can cut

down on delays and breakdowns.

For experienced drivers, much of the following information will be familiar. It is

presented in this format.

2. The Pretrip Inspection Process

The pretrip inspection is the easiest and most practical way to find damaged or missing

parts, or other problems that could cause an accident, breakdown or delay of your trip.

Pretrip inspections must be done before each trip. Doing the inspection the same way

every time helps you remember how things should look and makes it easier to tell when

something is wrong.




Step A: Vehicle Overview

Pocket your keys so no one can move the vehicle during the inspection. The vehicle

should be parked on a level surface, away from overhead wires, tree limbs, people, other

vehicles, or anything that may become a hazard as you pull away. Start by looking for the

obvious damage and anything that could cause problems once you are on the road.

Check the following:

• Look at the last vehicle inspection report.

(Note: If a problem was listed, make sure it was fixed. A signature by a company

representative indicates that a repair was made.)

• Look under the vehicle for oil, coolant, grease or fuel leaks.

(Note: You should make this a habit as you are walking toward the vehicle.)




Step B: Engine Compartment

Chock wheels and apply parking brakes, then check the level of the following:

• Engine oil

• Coolant

• Power steering fluid

• Windshield washer fluid

• Battery fluid

• Automatic transmission fluid

Next, check all hoses, connections and tie-downs for condition and make sure they are

securely attached,

Next, check the alternator, water pump, air compressor and air conditioning for tightness

and excess wear,

Next, check all electrical wiring insulation to make sure they are free of cracks and

excessive wear,

Next, check all your wet/dry air reservoirs by opening and closing petcocks, be sure to

drain off any condensation,

Next, check all latches to make sure they close securely.




Step C: Inside the Cab

With the parking brake set and the truck in neutral or park, start the engine and listen for

any unusual noises. Next check your gauges:

• Oil pressure – reaches normal within a few seconds

• Ammeter/voltmeter – normal ranges

• Coolant – rising to normal range

• Engine oil temperature – rises to normal range

• Air pressure – builds up to cut-out pressure of 100-125 lbs per sq inch

• Circuit warning lights

Next check all your controls for looseness, sticking and improper settings:

• Steering wheel

• Clutch

• Accelerator

• All braking controls – foot and trailer brakes, parking and tractor protection valve

• Transmission controls

• Interaxle differential lock, if equipped

• Horn

• Windshield wipers and washer

• Light switches – headlights, dimmer switch, turn signals, four-way flashers,

clearance lights, marker lights

• Mirrors and Windshield – clean and adjust, check for cracks

• Emergency/safety equipment – check for three red reflective triangles, properly

charged fire extinguisher, spare electrical fuses, emergency phone numbers




Step D: Lights

Next, check all your lights

• Head lights and hazards – must be clean and working

• Parking lights

• Clearance lights

• Side-marker lights

• Identification lights

• Left and right turn signals




Step E: Walk around Inspection

Start your walk around inspection at the driver’s door and work around the front, down

the right side, around the rear, and back up the left side.

• Driver’s door – make sure it latches properly

• Left front wheel – tire wear, inflation, valve stem, rim, studs, lugs

Note: You need at least 4/21 inch of tread depth on every major groove on front tires and

2/32 on all other tires.

• Hub oil level – check for leaks

• Left front suspension – springs, hangers, shackles, u-bolts, shock absorbers

• Left front brake – brake drum and hoses

• Front – Check front axle‘s general condition

• Steering system – Check for worn, damaged or missing parts, test for looseness

Note: Steering wheel play of more than 10 degrees (approx 2 inches on a 20 inch steering

wheel) can make steering difficult. More than 30 degrees or more is illegal.

• Windshield – must be clean and free of cracks

• Wiper arms – check for proper tension

• Wiper blades – must be free of damage, not stiff or dry

• Lights and reflectors – must be clean and working

• Right front – check door, wheel, suspension and brake as done on left side

• Cab-over-engine tractor – make sure the primary and safety cab locks are secure

• Fuel tank – make sure it is securely mounted and not leaking, check crossover line

• Check all visible parts for leaks, bends, cracks, snags, wear, securely mounted

• Rear of engine

• Transmission

• Exhaust system

• Frame

• Air lines and electrical

• Wiring

• Spare tire carrier

• Spare tire




• Check fifth wheel for grease, damaged or missing parts, make sure glide plate is

securely mounted, no space between upper and lower 5th

wheel, locking jaw,

kingpin, release arm in place and locks.




• Air lines to trailer – check glad hands for leaks, damage, enough slack for turns

• Electric lines to trailer – check for damage, check electrical plug

• Check the right rear tires, wheels and rims for any missing or damaged parts,

make sure tire sizes match, don’t mix radials with bias type tires

• Wheel bearing – check for leaks

• Suspension – check springs, spring hangers, shackles, U-bolts, torque rod arms

• Brakes – check slack adjusters, spring brakes, drums and shoes (minimum ¼

inch)

Note: Find out how to adjust slack adjusters on any vehicle BEFORE driving it

• Rear of trailer – check to see everything is clean and working properly

• Lights and reflectors

• Doors and hinges

• License plate

• Landing gear

• Left Side - Check the same as right side.




Step F: Check Signal Lights

Turn off all lights and turn on double blinker lights to see that left and right turn signals

are working in front and rear.




Step G: Final Brake Check

• Parking brake – Apply brake, gently pull against it in low gear to see if it will

hold.

• Trailer emergency brake – Charge trailer air brake system and see if trailer moves.

Stop and pull out tractor protection valve control, or place in emergency position.

Pull gently on trailer with tractor to see if trailer emergency brakes are on.

• Service brakes – With normal air pressure, release parking brake. Move vehicle

forward slowly and apply brakes – look for anything unusual.

• Trailer service brakes – check for normal air pressure. Release parking brakes and

move vehicle slowly forward. Apply trailer brakes with hand control to see if

brakes come on.

• Air leakage rate – Chock wheels. With fully charged air system (125 lbs) turn off

engine, release service brake and time air pressure drop. Loss rate should be less

than two (2) psi in one minute for combination vehicles. Apply 90 or more psi

with brake pedal. Air loss rate is too much if the air pressure falls more than three

(3) psi in one minute. Four (4) psi in one minute for combination vehicles (after

initial pressure drop). Always fix any air leaks before you leave.

• Low pressure warning – Shut off engine when the low pressure warning signal is

off. Turn electrical power on, step on and off brake pedal to reduce air tank

pressure. Never drive if low pressure warning is not working.

• Spring brakes – Chock wheels, release parking brakes when air pressure allows

and shut off engine. Step on and off brake to reduce air pressure. Parking brake

knob should pop out when air pressure falls to manufacturers specification (20-40

psi), spring brakes should come on.

• Tractor protection valve – Charge trailer air brake system by building up normal

air pressure and pushing air supply knob in. Shut off engine. Step on and off

brake pedal to reduce air pressure in tanks. Tractor protection valve control




should pop out or go from normal to emergency when air pressure falls into

pressure range specified by manufacturer usually 20-45 psi.

Note: If this valve doesn’t work properly, an air hose or brake leak could drain all the air

from the tractor. If this happened, the emergency brakes would engage and you could

lose control of the vehicle.

• Air pressure build up rate: With the engine at the normal operating RPM, the

pressure system should build as follows: dual air systems from 85 to 100 psi

within 45 seconds. Single air systems (pre 1975) from 50 to 90 psi within three

(3) minutes with engine idle at 600-900 RPM.

• Air compressor governor cut-in/cut-out pressures – Pumping by air compressor

should start about 90-100 psi and stop about 125 psi. Run engine at fast idle. Air

governor should cut-out the air compressor near manufacturer’s specified

pressure. Air pressure shown on gauges should stop rising. With engine idling,

step on and off brake to reduce air tank pressure. Compressor should cut-in near

manufacturer’s specified pressure.

Note: An air governor that is not working properly may not maintain enough air pressure

for safe driving.

• Double/Triple trailers - Apply parking brakes and chock wheels. When air

pressure reaches normal, push in the red trailer air supply knob, which will supply

air to emergency lines. Use trailer hand brake to provide air to service line. Open

emergency line shut-off valve at ear of last trailer – you should hear the air

escaping, showing entire system is charged. Close emergency line valve. Open

service line valve to check that service pressure goes through all the trailers

(trailer hand brake or service pedal must be opren, then close valve. If you do not

hear air escaping from both lines, make sure the shut-off valves on the other

trailer and dolly are in the OPEN position

If you find anything wrong during this pre-trip inspection, have it fixed. Its the

LAW!. It also ensures your safety as well as the safety of the general public.

.




3. On-the-road Inspections

For continued safety on your trip, you must be ever alert for signs of trouble. Get in the

habit of checking your tires, wheels, rims, brakes, lights, electrical connections, coupling

devices and cargo securement each time you stop.

Tractor-trailer drivers are required to inspect cargo and load-securing devices after the

first 25 miles of a trip. After that the cargo and any securements must be checked every

150 miles or every three (3) hours, whichever comes first. An inspection and any

necessary changes must also be made whenever the driver makes a change of his duty

status.

During these inspections, you should check:

• cargo, cargo doors and securement

• tires: check for adequate air pressure, overheating

• brakes: check for overheating by putting hand near brake drums

• coupling devices

For added safety, whenever you see, hear, smell or feel anything different or unusual,

always take the time to check it out.




4. Post-trip Inspections

Post-trip inspections are done after your shift or at the end of the trip. In addition, you

will be required to complete a Driver Vehicle Inspection Report (DVIR) listing any

problems you found or anything that you think needs to be checked by maintenance.

After each trip you are required to inspect and report on the condition of:

• Service brakes, including trailer brakes connection

• Parking (hand) brake

• Steering mechanism

• Light and reflectors

• Tires

• Horn

• Windshield wipers

• Rear view mirrors

• Coupling devices

• Wheels and rims

• Emergency equipment

A copy of this report should stay with the vehicle. This reminds you or shows the next

driver what problems you found and whether or not they were repaired.




5. Additional Inspection Procedure

for Special Rigs

Here are some additional inspection procedures for those of you who operate vehicles

with multiple trailers, tankers or refrigerated units.

A. Inspecting Double and or Triple Trailers

In addition to the normal pre-trip inspection, check the following:

• Shut-off valves – Rear of front trailers open. Rear of last trailer closed. Converter

dolly air tank drain valve closed. Check to see if all air lines are supported and

glad hands connected.

• Hook-up – check emergency line at front of converter gear to emergency glad

hand at rear of lead trailer. Check emergency line at rear of converter gear to

emergency glad hand at front of second trailer. Make same check of all service

lines.

• Brakes – make sure all brakes operate properly

• Spare tire – check to see if properly secured in converter gear

• Dolly pintle-eye – make sure that hook is properly hooked and latched

• Safety chains - check to see if properly secured to trailer

• Light cords – check to see if firmly in trailer’s sockets

• On-the road inspection – check brake lines, glad hands, electrical connections and

pintle hook latch and safety chains




B. Inspecting Tankers

In addition to normal pre-trip inspections, check:

• Dome covers – make sure they are closed and secured

• Hoses – make sure they are fastened and secured

• Pumps – make sure they are free to turn

• Valves – make sure they are all in the off position and locked

• Tanks – Check for dents or leaks

• Hazmat placards – iF displayed make sure they are applicable signs, do not

leave placards on an empty trailer.




C. Inspecting Refrigerated Units (Reefers)

In addition to normal pre-trip inspection, check:

• Trailer condition - check for holes in walls or floors, damaged cold air

circulation ducts, doors that properly lock and seal, rails or rack on ceiling

must be secured, any compartment inside trailer

• Refrigerator unit – check water, oil, coolant level, suction pressure

• Fuel – check level in reefer fuel tank, fuel line from tank to refrigerator

unit for leaks

• Thermostat – set at appropriate temperature for cargo

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