+ All Categories
Home > Documents > Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical ... study... · Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry:...

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical ... study... · Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry:...

Date post: 11-Feb-2018
Category:
Upload: hoangkhuong
View: 218 times
Download: 2 times
Share this document with a friend
45
Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels 1 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox” Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels Bartolini Giuseppe, Franchi Andrea and Dall’Anese Riccardo (BuzziLab Prato) Prato, 26 October 2016
Transcript

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

1 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry:

actual chemical contamination levels

Bartolini Giuseppe, Franchi Andrea and Dall’Anese Riccardo (BuzziLab – Prato)

Prato, 26 October 2016

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

2 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

INTRODUCTION

In February 2016, for the first time in the world, 20 manufacturing companies of the Prato

district and members of Confindustria Toscana Nord, endorsed the Detox commitments

and acknowledged how important it is to eliminate dangerous substances from the textile

production cycle. In this group, in March, we have added other 7 companies, thereby

significantly increasing the volumes of the products concerned by the commitment Detox.

Supported and led by the association, the companies have started their improvement

process through the elimination of such substances according to the transparency,

prevention and precaution principles of the Detox campaign and have accepted the media

challenge of the Greenpeace campaign which has rapidly changed the attention and the

contents of the great fashion brands’ terms of contracts.

Due to this improvement process, Detox committed companies in Prato District, with the

coordination of CTN and with the analitycal support of BuzziLab (Buzzi Laboratorio

Analisi), started a case study for evaluation of chemical contaminations of more-frequently

used dyestuffs in Prato Textile District.

Chemical analysis was restricted only to four groups of substances (respect to the 11

priority groups of Detox Commitment)

Companies involved in this case study were the dyeing mills who signed Detox

Commitment:

CROMOS – nobilitazione filati

F.LLI CIAMPOLINI - nobilitazione tessuti

JERSEY-MODE - nobilitazione tessuti

TINTORIA BIAGIOLI MODESTO – tintoria filati

TINTORIA COMETA - nobilitazione filati

TINTORIA FIORDILUCE - nobilitazione filati

FINISSAGGIO T.R.T. - nobilitazione filati

ALESSANDRINI – tintoria filati

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

3 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

OPERATIONAL PROCEDURES

Case study was made up by these steps:

1-Data collection among dyeing mills regarding list of used dyes with additional

informations if avalilable (commercial name, Color Index, CAS/EINECS numbers,

suppliers, colorant class and so on)

2- Color Index search for those dyes with missing or not available CI number.

This step was very demanding, because of lack of informations by dyeing mills and

expecially by suppliers/producers.

Then, single lists was merged for searching dyestuffs that have same Color Index but

differerent commercial name

3-Dyeing mills declaration of single-dye usage by:

+ = dye used in quantity <10 kg/year

++ = dye used in quantity 10-300 kg/year

+++ = dye used in quantity >300 kg/year

4- Final identification of dyes to be analised:

The choice of which dyestuffs had to be analised was based on:

Chemical analysis of all dyestuff for which Color Index is known;

If a CI is used by only one dyeing mill, that mill provided the dyestuffs;

If a CI is used by two or more mills, dyestuffs was provided by mills who declared

a greater usage;

In case of CI used by two or more mills with same usage declaration, choice criteria

was random.

5-Chemical analysis: group of substances

BuzziLab (Buzzi Laboratorio analisi), due to a great experience in chemical control of

dyestuffs and textiles auxiliaries, selected 4 groups of “concerned substances” from the 11

priority groups of Detox Commitment.

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

4 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

These four groups represent the main contamination inputs for this kind of products

(dyestuffs):

Parameter MRSL DETOX Limit

Ethoxylated Alkylphenols – APEOS 1 mg/kg

Aromatic amines from azocolorants 1mg/kg

Chlorophenols 0.05 mg/kg

Phthalates 10 mg/kg

ANALYTICAL SECTION

AROMATIC AMINES DERIVED FROM AZOCOLORANTS

Test method compliant to UNI EN ISO 14362-1:2012 Annex F.

Brief description of test method: a weighted sample of dye is treated in citric buffer with

sodium dithionite (reductive cleavage). The released amine/s is/are extracted in organic

solvent and quantitatively analised by GC-MSMS and LC-MSMS.

Limit of Detection: 0,01mg/kg

Limit of Quantification (MRSL): 1mg/kg

APEOS / CHLOROPHENOLS / PHTHALATES

Tes Method: in-house method (developed by Buzzi Lab) was used by high-resolution

mass spectrometry/time-of-flight liquid chromatography (LC-QTOF equipment).

Brief description of test method: a weighted sample of dye is dissolved in organic solvent

and directly analised by LC-QTOF.

This equipment permit the quantitative analysis of APEOS, Chlorophenols and Phthalates

in a single injection, using high-resolution mass spectrometry (exact masses) with also

low-limit of detection

Limit of Detection: APEOS and Chlorophenols: 0.01mg/kg – Phthalates: 0.1mg/kg

Limit of Quantification (MRSL): APEOS: 1mg/kg – Chlorophenols: 0.05mg/kg –

Phthalates: 10mg/kg

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

5 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

Analytical Equipment – Chromatographic Section of Buzzi Lab.

LC-Q-TOF

Agilent 6545

LC-MS triple quadrupole Agilent 6495 GC-MS triple quadrupole Agilent 7010

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

6 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

RESULTS

Total dyestuffs analised:

228

203 single Color Index and

25 known-composition

mixtures

The 228 analised dyestuffs represent the following classes:

About single classes, the partition regarding single colors are:

68

58 35

25

20 13

5 3 1

Total: 228 dyestuffs

acid 68

reactive 58

direct 35

disperse 25

known mix 20

basic 13

pigment 5

mordant 3

leuco 1

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

7 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

20

19

11

6

4 4 2 2

Acid dyes: 68

blue 20

red 19

yellow 11

black 6

orange 4

violet 4

brown 2

green 2

8

8

4

4

3

3

2 2 1

Direct dyes: 35

red 8

blue 8

orange 4

black 4

brown 3

yellow 3

green 2

violet 2

scarlet 1

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

8 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

17

14 13

6 3

2 1 1

1

Reactive dyes: 58 blue 17

yellow 14

red 13

orange 6

green 3

scarlet 2

black 1

brown

violet 1

5

4

2

1 1

Basic dyes: 13

red 5

yellow 4

blue 2

green 1

violet 1

12

5

3

1 1

2 1

Disperse dyes: 25

red 12

blue 5

yellow 3

brown 1

green 1

orange 2

violet 1

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

9 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

2

1

1

1

Pigment dyes: 5

yellow 2

blue 1

green 1

red 1

20

3 1

Other dyes

known mixture 20

mordant 3

leuco 1

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

10 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

LEVELS OF CONTAMINATION

APEOS

On 228 Analised dyestuffs, found 112 contaminations of APEOS

Contamination distributions are the following:

8

104

APEOS: tot 112 contaminations

OPEO 8

NPEO 104

8

0 0 0 0 0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

1 - 10 mg/kg 10 - 50 mg/kg 50 - 100 mg/kg 100 - 200mg/kg

> 200 mg/kg

OPEO 8

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

11 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

AROMATIC AMINES DERIVED FROM AZOCOLORANTS

On 228 Analised dyestuffs, found 128 contaminations of amines

61

23

11 8

1 0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

1 - 10 mg/kg 10 - 50 mg/kg 50 - 100 mg/kg 100 - 200mg/kg

> 200 mg/kg

NPEO 104

54

17

15

14

6 6

4 3 2 2 2 1 1 1

Aromatic amines: tot 128 contaminations

p-Chloro-Aniline 54

4-aminobiphenyl 17

2-naphthylamine 15

p-cresidine 14

o-anisidine 6

2,4-xylidine 6

o-toluidine 4

benzidine 3

4-methoxy-m-phenylenediamine 2

3,3'-dimethyl-benzidine 2

p-amino-azobenzene 2

4-methyl-m-phenylenediamine 1

3,3'-dimethoxy-benzidine 1

4,4'-thio-dianiline 1

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

12 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

Contamination distributions for each amine are the following:

11

4

2

0 0

2

4

6

8

10

12

1 - 10 mg/kg 10 - 50 mg/kg 50 - 100 mg/kg > 100 mg/kg

4-aminobiphenyl 17

0

1

0 0 0

1

2

1 - 10 mg/kg 10 - 50 mg/kg 50 - 100 mg/kg > 100 mg/kg

4-methyl-m-phenylenediamine 1

3

0 0 0 0

1

2

3

4

1 - 10 mg/kg 10 - 50 mg/kg 50 - 100 mg/kg > 100 mg/kg

benzidine 3

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

13 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

1

0 0 0 0

1

2

1 - 10 mg/kg 10 - 50 mg/kg 50 - 100 mg/kg > 100 mg/kg

3,3'-dimethoxy-benzidine 1

6

7

1

2

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

1 - 10 mg/kg 10 - 50 mg/kg 50 - 100 mg/kg > 100 mg/kg

2-naphthylamine 15

1 1

0 0 0

1

2

1 - 10 mg/kg 10 - 50 mg/kg 50 - 100 mg/kg > 100 mg/kg

3,3'-dimethyl-benzidine 2

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

14 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

28

21

3 2

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

1 - 10 mg/kg 10 - 50 mg/kg 50 - 100 mg/kg > 100 mg/kg

p-Chloro-Aniline 54

6

4

1

0 0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

1 - 10 mg/kg 10 - 50 mg/kg 50 - 100 mg/kg > 100 mg/kg

p-cresidine 14

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

15 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

0

2

0 0 0

1

2

3

1 - 10 mg/kg 10 - 50 mg/kg 50 - 100 mg/kg > 100 mg/kg

4-methoxy-m-phenylenediamine 2

0

1

0 0 0

1

2

1 - 10 mg/kg 10 - 50 mg/kg 50 - 100 mg/kg > 100 mg/kg

4,4'-thio-dianiline 1

1

3

0 0 0

1

2

3

4

1 - 10 mg/kg 10 - 50 mg/kg 50 - 100 mg/kg > 100 mg/kg

o-toluidine 4

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

16 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

4

2

0 0 0

1

2

3

4

5

1 - 10 mg/kg 10 - 50 mg/kg 50 - 100 mg/kg > 100 mg/kg

o-anisidine 6

2

0 0 0 0

1

2

3

1 - 10 mg/kg 10 - 50 mg/kg 50 - 100 mg/kg > 100 mg/kg

p-amino-azobenzene 2

3 3

0 0 0

1

2

3

4

1 - 10 mg/kg 10 - 50 mg/kg 50 - 100 mg/kg > 100 mg/kg

2,4-xylidine 6

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

17 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

CHLOROPHENOLS

On 228 Analised dyestuffs, found 28 contaminations of chlorophenols:

Contamination distributions for each chlorophenol are the following

16

3 1

5

3

CHLOROPHENOLS: tot 28 contaminations

Pentachloro derivative 16

Tetrachloro derivative 3

Trichloro derivative 1

Dichloro derivative 5

Monochloro derivative 3

12

4 3

0 1

0

4

1 0

3

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

0,05 - 1mg/kg

> 1mg/kg

0,05 - 1mg/kg

> 1mg/kg

0,05 - 1mg/kg

> 1mg/kg

0,05 - 1mg/kg

> 1mg/kg

0,05 - 1mg/kg

> 1mg/kg

PCP 16 TeCP 3 TriCP 1 DiCP 5 MoCP 3

Chlorophenols

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

18 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

PHTHALATES

On 228 Analised dyestuffs, found 7 contaminations of phthalates

Contamination distributions for each phthalate are the following:

2

1 1

1

1

PHTHALATES: tot 7 contaminations

DIBP 2

DBP 1

DEHP 1

DINP 2

DIDP 1

1 1

0

1

0 0 0

1

0

2

1

0

1

2

3

1 - 10mg/kg

10 - 50mg/kg

1 - 10mg/kg

10 - 50mg/kg

1 - 10mg/kg

10 - 50mg/kg

50 -100

mg/kg

> 100mg/kg

1 - 10mg/kg

10 - 50mg/kg

1 - 10mg/kg

DIBP DBP DEHP DINP DIDP

Phthalates

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

19 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

CONTAMINATION LEVELS FOR EACH COLORANT CLASS

Contamination levels for each colorant class are the following:

Amines 32 (47%)

Phthalates 5 (7%)

Chlorophenols 11 (16%)

APEOS 46 (68%)

Acid dyes: tot 68

Amines 32

Phthalates 5

Chlorophenols 11

APEOS 46

Amines 1 (7.7%)

Chlorophenols 1 (7.7%)

APEOS 5 (38,5%)

basic dyes: tot 13

Amines 1

Phthalates 0

Chlorophenols 1

APEOS 5

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

20 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

Amines 19 (54.3%)

Phthalates 3 (9%)

Chlorophenols 6 (17%)

APEOS 17 (48.6%)

Direct dyes: tot 35

Amines 19

Phthalates 3

Chlorophenols 6

APEOS 17

Amines 6 (24%)

Chlorophenols 1 (4%)

APEOS 6 (24%)

Disperse dyes: tot 25

Amines 6

Phthalates 0

Chlorophenols 1

APEOS 6

Amines 2 (40%)

Chlorophenols 1 (20%)

APEOS 3 (60%)

Pigment dyes: tot 5

Amines 2

Phthalates 0

Chlorophenols 1

APEOS 3

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

21 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

SUMMARY RESULTS FOR EACH COLORANT CLASS

dyes

Contamination by:

Aromatic

Amines APEOS Chlorophenols Phthalates

ACID 47% 68% 16% 7%

BASIC 7.7% 38.5% 7.7% /

DIRECT 54.3% 48.6% 17% 9%

DISPERSE 24% 24% 4% /

PIGMENT 40% 60% 20% /

REACTIVE 43% 34.5% 7% /

Amines 25 (43%)

Chlorophenols 4 (7%)

APEOS 20 (34.5%)

Reactive dyes: tot 58

Amines 25

Phthalates 0

Chlorophenols 4

APEOS 20

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

22 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

SUMMARY of FINAL RESULTS

Total number of analised dyestuffs: 228

Dyestuffs without any contaminations: 73 (32% on total basis)

Contaminated dyestuffs (at least one group of contaminants):155 (68%)

Dyestuffs with only one contamination: 65 (28%)

Dyestuffs with two contaminations (two different groups of contaminants): 44 (19%)

Dyestuffs with three contaminations (three different groups of contaminants): 10 (4%)

Dyestuffs with all contaminations (all the four groups of contaminants): none

73 (32%)

155 (68%)

65 (28%)

10 (4%) no contamination 73

contamination at least one group 155

single contamination group 65

triple contamination groups 10

alll (four) contaminations group 0

65 43

228

73

26 44

10 0 6 1 0

50

100

150

200

250

total dyestuffs nocontaminated

dyes

singlecontamination

AA + APEOS AA + APEOS +CP

AA + APEOS +CP + Ph

APEOS

Amines (AA)

Chlorophenols (CP)

Phthalates (Ph)

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

23 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

For each group, the distribution of contamination levels are the following:

26

7

4 6

0 0

5

10

15

20

25

30

1 - 10 mg/kg 10 - 50 mg/kg 50 - 100 mg/kg 100 - 200mg/kg

> 200 mg/kg

APEOS single contamination

13

9

3

1

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

1 - 10 mg/kg 10 - 50 mg/kg 50 - 100 mg/kg > 100 mg/kg

AROMATIC AMINES single contamination

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

24 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

Aggregate analysis of results shows that double contaminations (APEOS + Aromatic

amines) has the greater frequency.

This double contaminations has the following distribution:

4

2

0

1

2

3

4

5

0,05 - 1 mg/kg > 1 mg/kg

CHLOROPHENOLS single contamination

8

5

0

21

6

2 2

0

5

10

15

20

25

AA 1 - 10APEOS 1 - 10

AA 1 - 10APEOS 10 -100

AA 1 - 10APEOS > 100

AA 10 - 100APEOS 1- 10

AA 10 -100APEOS 10 - 100

AA >100APEOS 10 - 100

AA 10 - 100APEOS > 100

AMINES + APEOS double contamination

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

25 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

CONCLUSIONS

On the total of 228 analised dyestuffs, 73 dyes (32% on total basis) have no

contaminations.

Most frequent contamination groups are:

APEOS: non-ionic surfactants, used in dyestuffs production as “anti-

dust” additives;

Aromatic Amines (from azocolorants): the presence of amines could be

ascribe to a contaminated raw materials used in dyestuffs synthesis

and/or an incomplete purification process at the end of synthesis itself.

Chlorophenols presence could be ascribe for their preservatives properties

(e.g. anti-mould) while phthalate presence is very rare.

It should be interesting to compare the contamination levels obtained in this

case study respect to limits disclose in MRSL-Detox commitment of Prato

District and MRSL “ZDHC” (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals).

The comparison is made by examination of single colorant classes and then

with aggregate data

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

26 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

AROMATIC AMINES from AZOCOLORANTS

dyestuffs

LIMITS NON-COMPLIANCE

MRSL Detox

Prato District

ZDHC v 1.1-2015

Group B

Respect to

MRSL Detox

Respect to

ZDHC

ACID 1ppm 150ppm 45% 1%

BASIC 1ppm 150ppm 7% 0%

DIRECT 1ppm 150ppm 51% 0%

DISPERSE 1ppm 150ppm 28% 0%

PIGMENT 1ppm 150ppm 40% 0%

REACTIVE 1ppm 150ppm 39% 3%

TOTAL 1ppm 150ppm 35% 1%

APEOS

dyestuffs

LIMITS NON-COMPLIANCE

MRSL Detox

Prato District

ZDHC v 1.1-2015

Group B

Respect to

MRSL Detox

Respect to

ZDHC

ACID 1ppm 500ppm 67% 0%

BASIC 1ppm 500ppm 38% 0%

DIRECT 1ppm 500ppm 46% 0%

DISPERSE 1ppm 500ppm 28% 0%

PIGMENT 1ppm 500ppm 60% 0%

REACTIVE 1ppm 500ppm 34% 0%

TOTAL 1ppm 500ppm 48% 0%

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

27 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

CHLOROPHENOLS

dyestuffs

LIMITS NON-COMPLIANCE

MRSL Detox

Prato District

ZDHC v 1.1-2015

Group B

Respect to

MRSL Detox

Respect to

ZDHC

ACID 0.05ppm

50ppm

(20ppm PCP-TeCP) 16% 0%

BASIC 0.05ppm 50ppm

(20ppm PCP-TeCP) 8% 0%

DIRECT 0.05ppm 50ppm

(20ppm PCP-TeCP) 16% 0%

DISPERSE 0.05ppm 50ppm

(20ppm PCP-TeCP) 5% 0%

PIGMENT 0.05ppm 50ppm

(20ppm PCP-TeCP) 5% 0%

REACTIVE 0.05ppm 50ppm

(20ppm PCP-TeCP) 7% 0%

TOTAL 0.05ppm 50ppm

(20ppm PCP-TeCP) 12% 0%

PHTHALATES

dyestuffs

LIMITS NON-COMPLIANCE

MRSL Detox

Prato District

ZDHC v 1.1-2015

Group B

Respect to

MRSL Detox

Respect to

ZDHC

ACID 10ppm 250ppm (somma) 3% 0%

BASIC 10ppm 250ppm (somma) 0% 0%

DIRECT 10ppm 250ppm (somma) 8% 0%

DISPERSE 10ppm 250ppm (somma) 0% 0%

PIGMENT 10ppm 250ppm (somma) 0% 0%

REACTIVE 10ppm 250ppm (somma) 0% 0%

TOTAL 10ppm 250ppm (somma) 2.5% 0%

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

28 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

GENERAL RESULTS

MRSL-Detox / MRSL-ZDHC COMPARISON

Group

LIMITS TOTAL NON-COMPLIANCE

MRSL Detox

Prato District

ZDHC v 1.1-2015

Group B

Respect to

MRSL Detox

Respect to

ZDHC

Aromatic Amines 1ppm 150ppm 35% 1%

APEOS 1ppm 500ppm 48% 0%

Chlorophenols 0.05ppm 50ppm

(20ppm PCP-TeCP) 12% 0%

Phthlates 10ppm 250ppm (somma) 2.5% 0%

0

50

100

150

200

250

Total dyestuffs Not compliant withMRSL DETOX

Not compliant withMRSL ZDHC

228 dyes

155 dyes (68%) 2 dyes

(0,8%)

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

29 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

FUTURE DEVELOPMENTS

This case study is to be intended as a first part of a large research project.

Even if a stonger collaboration from dyestuffs producer/vendor is desiderable

(e.g chemical analysis of colorant batches, chemical composition of unknown

mixture and so on), the next steps of this project could involved:

1-CI classification of dyestuffs that (at moment) are unknown mixture and

subsequent chemical analysis.

2-chemical analysis of the same CI provided by different suppliers.

3-Evaluation to extend chemical analysis to other priority groups (e.g.

Organotin compound, flame retardant, Chloroparaffins and so on) even if this

groups of contaminants seems to have a very rare use in dyestuffs

productions.

4-chemical analysis (e.g screening methods) to textile auxiliaries used in

textile production steps of supply chain.

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

30 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

ANALYTICAL RESULT DETAILS

(unit in mg/kg)

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

31 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

ACID DYES

COLOR INDEX Chlorophenols Phthalates Aromatic Amines APEOS

ACID BLACK 1 mix / / 4-aminodiphenyl 66.7 4-chloro aniline 3.3

NPEO 2.2

ACID BLACK 107 / DIBP 46 4- aminodiphenyl 1.3 NPEO: 2.2

ACID BLACK 172 / / / /

ACID BLACK 194 / / / NPEO 31.3

ACID BLACK 26 / / 2-naphthylamine 42.5 4- chloro aniline 7.3

NPEO 24.4

ACID BLACK 60 PCP 0.22 / 4-chloro aniline 6.8 2,4-xylidine 11.2

/

ACID BLUE 113-26360 / / 2-naphthylamine 60.8 NPEO 1,5

ACID BLUE 129 / / 2,4- xylidine 3.1 /

ACID BLUE 158 / / / /

ACID BLUE 182 / / / /

ACID BLUE 185 2,4-dichlorophenol 0.11 / / NPEO 22.7

ACID BLUE 193 / / 4-chloro aniline 1.4 NPEO 13,9

ACID BLUE 221 / / / /

ACID BLUE 225 / / / /

ACID BLUE 258 PCP 0.18 / / /

ACID BLUE 277 PCP 0.52 / / NPEO 3,5

ACID BLUE 280 / / / NPEO 65.4

ACID BLUE 281 / / / /

ACID BLUE 284 / / / /

ACID BLUE 345 / / 4-aminodiphenyl 1.8 p-cresidine 2.5 2naphthylamine 32

NPEO 44.8

ACID BLUE 40 / / / NPEO 4.5

ACID BLUE 41 / / / /

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

32 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

ACID DYES

COLOR INDEX Chlorophenols Phthalates Aromatic Amines APEOS

ACID BLUE 62 / / / NPEO 7.2

ACID BLUE 71 PCP 0.25 / 2-naphthylamine 17.1 p-cresidine 2.2

NPEO 12.5

ACID BLUE 72 / / / NPEO 7,4

ACID BLUE 80 / / 4-methyl-m-phenylendiamine 29.2 NPEO 1,9

ACID BROWN 282 / / / NPEO 4.8

ACID BROWN 355 / / 4-amino-diphenyl 1.5 NPEO 11,5

ACID GREEN 25 / / / /

ACID GREEN 73 / / / /

ACID ORANGE 116 / / 2-naphthylamine 14.5 p-cresidine 4.4

NPEO 70,4

ACID ORANGE 144 / DIBP 4.8 / NPEO 1,8

ACID ORANGE 67 / / 4-chloro aniline 14,2 NPEO 1,6

ACID ORANGE 74 / / / NPEO 2.5

ACID RED 111 / / / NPEO 2,6

ACID RED 118 / / 2,4-xylidine 2,4 /

ACID RED 131 / / 4-chloro aniline 27.8 NPEO 1,8

ACID RED 151 / / 4-amino-diphenyl 4.5 4-chloro aniline 11.2 p-aminoazobenzene 9.5

OPEO 4.1 NPEO 107

ACID RED 183 / / / NPEO 3,2

ACID RED 186 / / / NPEO 2,2

ACID RED 249 / / 4-chloro aniline 23.2 /

ACID RED 266 4-chlorophenol 2.1 / / /

ACID RED 276 / / / NPEO 8.1

ACID RED 299 PCP 2.1 / 2-naphthylamine 11.2 4 chloro aniline 1.3 3,3’-dimethylbenzidine 32

NPEO 4,5

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

33 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

ACID DYES

COLOR INDEX Chlorophenols Phthalates Aromatic Amines APEOS

ACID RED 336 / / 4-chloro aniline 13.1 2,4- xylidine 25.8

NPEO 1,8

ACID RED 337-17102 / / / /

ACID RED 359 4-chlorophenol 1.1 / / OPEO 2,4

ACID RED 374 / / 4- aminodiphenyl 40.6 o-toluidine 2.4

NPEO 365.7

ACID RED 405 / / / /

ACID RED 414 / / p-cresidine 1.8 NPEO 98.3

ACID RED 418 / / / OPEO 3.2 OPEO 1.8

ACID RED 42-17070 / / / NPEO 116.2

ACID RED 57 2,3,5,6-tetrachlorophenol 0.12 / 4-chloro aniline 12.3 NPEO 60,2

ACID VIOLET 43 / / / NPEO 14,7

ACID VIOLET 48 / / / NPEO 9,2

ACID VIOLET 5:1 / / / NPEO 15.5

ACID VIOLET 90 / / 4-aminodiphenyl 1.2 /

ACID YELLOW 159 / / 4-chloro aniline 21.5 p-cresidine 10.8

NPEO 1,6

ACID YELLOW 199 / / 4- chloro aniline 356.4 NPEO 2,2

ACID YELLOW 219,1 / / / /

ACID YELLOW 220 2,4-dichlorophenol 0.13 / 4-chloro aniline 1.5 /

ACID YELLOW 256 / / / /

ACID YELLOW 42 / / 4-aminodiphenyl 2.1 Benzidine 3.4 o-anisidine 1.7

NPEO 10.8

ACID YELLOW 49 / DBP 28.5 4-aminodiphenyl 9.7 NPEO 22.4

ACID YELLOW 59 2,4,6-trichlorophenol 0.11 / 4-chloro aniline 1.2 2-4- xylidine 1.7

NPEO 12,9

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

34 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

ACID DYES

COLOR INDEX Chlorophenols Phthalates Aromatic Amines APEOS

ACID YELLOW 59 / / / /

ACID YELLOW 61 / / / NPEO 26.1

ACID YELLOW 99 / / / NPEO 2.3

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

35 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

BASIC DYES

COLOR INDEX Chlorophenols Phthalates Aromatic Amines APEOS

BASIC BLUE 3 / / / NPEO 158.2

BASIC BLUE 41 / / / NPEO 1.3

BASIC GREEN 4 / / / /

BASIC RED 15 / / / /

BASIC RED 17 / / / /

BASIC RED 18 2,4,6-trichlorophenol 0.11 3,4-dichlorophenol 0.12 2,4-dichlorophenol 0.39

/ 4-chloro aniline 6.1 /

BASIC RED 46 / / / /

BASIC RED 51 / / / OPEO 1.6 NPEO 147.2

BASIC VIOLET 16 / / / /

BASIC YELLOW 21 / / / /

BASIC YELLOW 28 / / / /

BASIC YELLOW 29 / / / NPEO 64.3

BASIC YELLOW 87 / / / NPEO 1.5

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

36 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

DIRECT DYES

COLOR INDEX Chlorophenols Phthalates Aromatic Amines APEOS

DIRECT BLACK 112 / / / NPEO 1.8

DIRECT BLACK 22 PCP 0.16 / 4-chloro aniline 12.8 NPEO 45.4

DIRECT BLACK 19 / / 4-chloro aniline 29.2 4,4’-thiodianiline 17.5

NPEO 1.4

DIRECT BLACK 80 / / 4-aminodiphenyl 3.8 2-naphthylamine 1.4 4-chloro aniline 35.8

/

DIRECT BLUE 199 / / / NPEO 93.7

DIRECT BLUE 299 / / 2-naphthylamine 11.5 4- chloro aniline 1.6

/

DIRECT BLUE 218 / / 3,3’-dimethoxybenzidine 5.9 o-anisidine 1.3

NPEO 1.9

DIRECT BLUE 293 PCP 0.15 / / NPEo 2.8

DIRECT BLUE 71 / / 2-naphthylamine 71 /

DIRECT BLUE 80 / / / NPEO 30.1

DIRECT BLUE 85 / / o-anisidine 1.5 /

DIRECT BLUE FC 57087 2,3,5,6-tetrachlorophenol 0.11 / / /

DIRECT BROWN 103 / / / /

DIRECT BROWN 115 PCP 0.08 / 4-chloro aniline 1.9 2,4- xylidine 46.1

/

DIRECT BROWN 210 / / / NPEO 92.3

DIRECT GREEN 199 / / / NPEO 2.3

DIRECT GREEN 28 / / p-aminoazobenzene 1.8 /

DIRECT ORANGE 102 / / 4-aminodiphenyl 16.2 4-chloro aniline 1.8

/

DIRECT ORANGE 39 / / 4-chloro aniline 1.3 /

DIRECT ORANGE 46 / / 4-aminodiphenyl 2.5 NPEO 1.6

DIRECT ORANGE 57 / / 4-chloro aniline 8.5 NPEO 1.8

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

37 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

DIRECT DYES

COLOR INDEX Chlorophenols Phthalates Aromatic Amines APEOS

DIRECT RED 210 / DIDP 11.2 4-methoxy-m-phenylendiamine 18.3 p-cresidine 21.4

NPEO 2.4

DIRECT RED 224 / / / NPEO 82.4

DIRECT RED 227 / / 4-aminodiphenyl 60.7 NPEO 10.6

DIRECT RED 23 / / 4-aminodiphenyl 28.4 /

DIRECT RED 243 / / / /

DIRECT RED 80 4-chlorophenol 1.2 / / /

DIRECT RED 83:1 / DINP 25.3 / /

DIRECT RED 89 / / p-cresidine 44.8 o-anisidine 1.3

NPEO 5.9

DIRECT SCARLET 224 / / / /

DIRECT VIOLET 47 / / / /

DIRECT YELLOW 142 / DEHP 123.2 DINP 33.4

o-anisidine 25.7 NPEO 4.5

DIRECT YELLOW 58 / / o-toluidine 21.4 /

DIRECT YELLOW 86 / / / /

DIRECT YELLOW 96 / / / /

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

38 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

DISPERSE DYES

COLOR INDEX Chlorophenols Phthalates Aromatic Amines APEOS

DISPERSE BLUE 158 / / / NPEO 2.5

DISPERSE BLUE 284 / / / /

DISPERSE BLUE 56 / / / /

DISPERSE BLUE 60 + cyanin b basf / / / /

DISPERSE BLUE 79 / / / NPEO 1.4

DISPERSE BROWN 19 / / / NPEO 182.6

DISPERSE GREEN 9 / / / NPEO 72.3

DISPERSE ORANGE 29 / / 4-aminodiphenyl 1.7 4-chloro aniline 32.4

/

DISPERSE ORANGE 30 PCP 0.4 2,4-dichlorophenol 5.8

/ 4-chloro aniline 1.2 NPEO 5.5

DISPERSE RED 167 PCP 0.23 / Benzidine 3.3 4- chloro aniline 33.9

NPEO 2.2

DISPERSE RED 167:1 PCP 0.12 / / /

DISPERSE RED 277 / / / /

DISPERSE RED 343 / / / /

DISPERSE RED 356 / / Benzidine 1.2 /

DISPERSE RED 362 / / / /

DISPERSE RED 364 / / / NPEO 2.8

DISPERSE RED 367 / / / /

DISPERSE RED 50 / / 4-chloro aniline 36.2 NPEO 3.1

DISPERSE RED 60 / / / /

DISPERSE RED 11 / / / /

DISPERSE VIOLET 28 / / / /

DISPERSE YELLOW 126 / / / /

DISPERSE YELLOW 211 / / 4-chloro aniline 2.4 /

DISPERSE YELLOW 37 / / 4-chloro aniline 2.9 /

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

39 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

SULFUR DYES

COLOR INDEX Chlorophenols Phthalates Aromatic Amines APEOS

LEUCO SULFUR BLACK 1 / / / /

MORDANT DYES

COLOR INDEX Chlorophenols Phthalates Aromatic Amines APEOS

MORDANT BLACK 11 / / 2-naphthylamine 1.3 /

MORDANT BLACK 11 mix 2-naphthylamine 1.8

MORDANT BLACK 9 / / / NPEO 1.6

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

40 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

MIXTURES of DYES

COLOR INDEX Chlorophenols Phthalates Aromatic Amines APEOS

Mix Acid Black 26 + Acid Yellow 42 / / 2-naphthylamine 17.8 NPEO 2.1

Mix Acid Blue 158 + Red 186 / / / NPEO 12.2

Mix Acid Blue 317 / / 4-chloro aniline 8.4 /

Mix Base Acid Red 131 / / 4-aminodiphenyl 10.3 4-chloro aniline 1.4

NPEO 10.5

Mix Basic blue 159 + blue 3 / / / /

Mix Basic Blue 41 / / / /

Mix Basic Blue 41 + Red 46 + Yellow 28 / / / /

Mix Basic blue 41+ yellow 28 + red 46 / / / /

Mix Disperse Blu 291 + Violet 93 + Orange 44 / / 4-chloro aniline 5.5 /

Mix Disperse Blue 165 + Blue 56 PCP 0.13 / / NPEO 6.8

Mix Disperse Blue 284 + brown 19 + Red 311 / / / NPEO 151.2

Mix Disperse Blue 291 + Violet 93 + Orange 31 / / 4-aminodiphenyl 3.9 4-chloro aniline 22.7

OPEO 6.4

Mix Disperse orange 61 + orange 44 / / 4-chloro aniline 5.2 /

Mix Reactive Black 5 / / 4-chloro aniline 92.5 /

Mix Reactive Black 5 + Orange 72 / / 4-chloro aniline 20.8 /

Mix Reactive Blue 171 / / / /

Mix Reactive Blue 171 modified / / / NPEO 2.3

Mix Reactive Blue 198 / / / /

Mix Acid Blue 350 + Blue 80 + green 25 / / / /

Mix Reactive Blue 89 / / 2-naphthylamine 1.8 /

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

41 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

PIGMENT DYES

COLOR INDEX Chlorophenols Phthalates Aromatic Amines APEOS

PIGMENT BLUE 15:3 / / 3,3’-dimethylbenzidine 3.6 o-toluidine 20.6

/

PIGMENT GREEN 7 PCP 1.8 / / /

PIGMENT RED 170 / / o-anisidine 15.4 NPEO 143.2

PIGMENT YELLOW 146 / / / NPEO 27.5

PIGMENT YELLOW 83 / / / NPEO 2.8

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

42 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

REACTIVE DYES

COLOR INDEX Chlorophenols Phthalates Aromatic Amines APEOS

REACTIVE BLACK 5 / / 4-chloro aniline 163.2 NPEO 69.8

REACTIVE BLUE 160 / / / /

REACTIVE BLUE 171 / / 4-chloro aniline 1.3 /

REACTIVE BLUE 19 / / / /

REACTIVE BLUE 198 / / / NPEO 2.8 OPEO 1.2

REACTIVE BLUE 21 / / 4-chloro aniline 3.5 /

REACTIVE BLUE 220 / / / /

REACTIVE BLUE 222 / / 4-chloro aniline 6.5 NPEO 2.8

REACTIVE BLUE 235 / / / /

REACTIVE BLUE 29 / / / /

REACTIVE BLUE 41 / / / OPEO 2.3 NPEO 1.3

REACTIVE BLUE 50 / / / /

REACTIVE BLUE 52 / / / /

REACTIVE BLUE 69 / / / /

REACTIVE BLUE 73 / / 4-chloro aniline 35.1 NPEO 2.2

REACTIVE BLUE 1mix / / 4-chloro aniline 19.6 NPEO 8.7

REACTIVE BLUE mix / / 4-chloro aniline 67.8 NPEO 31.2

REACTIVE BLUE N160 / / / /

REACTIVE BROWN 19 / / / /

REACTIVE GREEN 12 PCP 0.19 / / /

REACTIVE GREEN 19 / / / NPEO 1.5

REACTIVE GREEN 21 / / / /

REACTIVE ORANGE 16 / / 4-chloro aniline 19.2 p-cresidine 2.3

/

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

43 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

REACTIVE DYES

COLOR INDEX Chlorophenols Phthalates Aromatic Amines APEOS

REACTIVE ORANGE 19 / / 4-chloro aniline 54.6 /

REACTIVE ORANGE 29 / / / NPEO 15.8

REACTIVE ORANGE 30 / / / /

REACTIVE ORANGE 70 / / p-cresidine 2.8 /

REACTIVE ORANGE 84 / / / /

REACTIVE RED 120 / / / NPEO 1.5

REACTIVE RED 141 / / 2-naphthylamine 1.2 NPEO 38

REACTIVE RED 147 / / / /

REACTIVE RED 158 / / / /

REACTIVE RED 194 PCP 3.9 2,3,5,6-tetrachlorophenol 0.12

/ / NPEO 50.4

REACTIVE RED 195 / / / NPEO 4.1

REACTIVE RED 198 / / 4-chloro aniline 30.4 NPEO 2.5

REACTIVE RED 231 / / 4-chloro aniline 1.3 /

REACTIVE RED 243 / / 2-naphthylamine 207.4 /

REACTIVE RED 55 / / / /

REACTIVE RED 66 / / / NPEO 118.3

REACTIVE RED 84 PCP 1.3 2,3,5,6-tetrachlorophenol 0.19

/ / NPEO 7.1

REACTIVE RED mix / / 4-chloro aniline 21.2 /

REACTIVE SCARLET 1165 / / / /

REACTIVE SCARLET X-GA 1491 / / 4-chloro aniline 1.2 o-toluidine 15.2

NPEO 2.8

REACTIVE VIOLET 5 / / / /

REACTIVE YELLOW 138 / / / /

REACTIVE YELLOW 143 / / / /

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

44 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

REACTIVE DYES

COLOR INDEX Chlorophenols Phthalates Aromatic Amines APEOS

REACTIVE YELLOW 145 / / 4-chloro aniline 4.5 /

REACTIVE YELLOW 15 / / 4-methoxy-m-phenylendiamine 18.2 p-cresidine 20.6

OPEO 2.3 NPEO 1.7

REACTIVE YELLOW 15.1 / / p-cresidine 81.3 /

REACTIVE YELLOW 161 / / / /

REACTIVE YELLOW 207 / / / /

REACTIVE YELLOW 215 / / 4-chloro aniline 17.5 /

REACTIVE YELLOW 27 / / / /

REACTIVE YELLOW 37 / / 2-naphthylamine 1.5 /

REACTIVE YELLOW 38 PCP 0.53 / 4-chloro aniline 4.8 /

REACTIVE YELLOW 38.1 / / 4-chloro aniline 2.6 NPEO 2.3

REACTIVE YELLOW 39 / / / /

REACTIVE YELLOW 84 / / / /

Dyestuffs for Fashion Industry: actual chemical contamination levels

45 WARNING:all right reserved. Any reproduction, even full or partial, is striclty prohibited without autorisation of Consorzio Italiano Implementazione Detox”

WARNING

All right reserved.

Any reproduction, even full or

partial, is striclty prohibited without

autorisation of


Recommended