Dynamometer

Dynamometer

Summary

A dynamometer measures engine and/or drivetrain performance to assist in improving efficient power transfer.

A dynamometer is a machine that measures the torque and power produced by an engine. It applies various loads to an engine and is usually connected to a computer that can analyze and calculate all the aspects of engine operation measured.

Dynamometers are particularly useful in designing and refining engine technology. They can help identify how an engine or its drive train need to be modified or tuned to achieve more efficient power transfer.

There are two types of dynamometer:

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Engine Dynamometer:This type measures engine performance only and usually when the engine is removed from the vehicle and mounted onto a special frame. It is coupled directly to the engine flywheel and measures performance independent of the vehicle's drive train – such as its gearbox, transmission, or differential.

Chassis Dynamometer:This type measures the power from the engine through a vehicle's driven wheels. The whole vehicle is mounted on rollers and fixed to the ground to prevent it jumping when it is driven during testing. The vehicle is driven in gear and turns the rollers without moving, while its power output is measured.

Pressure testers

Summary There are a range of pressure testers used in the automotive industry. Each of them are used to provide information about the potential

condition of various systems and components.

There are a range of pressure testers used in the automotive industry. Each of them is used to provide information about the potential condition of various systems and components.

All gauges consist of a measurement scale from which a reading is taken. Depending on the type of fitting on the gauge, it is normally fitted to the vehicle component via a pipe or tube. Instructions provided with the gauge will describe how to take a correct reading. These should include the specific operational circumstances that the reading should be taken under, in order to interpret correctly the condition of the item being tested.

Most gauges are designed to read "zero" at atmospheric pressure (14.7lbs/sq inch or 1 Bar at sea level) as a base measurement.

Some types and applications:

Tire pressure gauges 1:This type of gauge is the one most familiar to most people. Tire pressure gauges are normally part of a tire inflation device and are used to ensure that the air pressure inside the vehicle tires is maintained at the recommended setting.







Tire pressure gauges 2:Gauges that only measure, that is, they just check the pressure without being able to inflate as well, are also quite common. The illustration on the left is an example of this type, known as a 'pencil-type' pressure gauge.

Vacuum gauges:These gauges are a particular type pressure gauge that measures "negative" pressure below atmospheric pressure. They are normally used to determine an engine's general operational condition. Depending on the reading a number of engine faults can be identified.

Compression gauges:These gauges are used to measure the compression pressures inside an engine cylinder and can identify overall condition and pressure leakage situations that could be caused by a range of engine faults.

Cooling system pressure gauges:These are used to identify faults in cooling systems and components like pressure caps.

Scan tools

Summary Scan tools are used to run diagnostic tests on vehicles to obtain information on the probable cause of faults. They are able to communicated

with the on-board control computer fitted in a vehicle.

A scan tool is a device that is able to communicate with the on board control computer fitted in a vehicle. The scan tool is a software driven device that contains information about the particular vehicle it is fitted to and communicates with the various on board systems to determine their







status and condition. A scan tool can be a standalone battery operated piece of specialized equipment, or it can be a device that links the onboard computer system to a PC running 'on board diagnostic' software.

The automotive industry introduced 'on board diagnostics' standards OBD1 and OBD2. The original OBD1 specification did not have a standard link connector, nor a standard data protocol, so the early on board diagnostic systems were highly proprietary to each manufacturer. The OBD2 specification standardized the connectors and the test signaling protocols, and also specified a common but extensible set of Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). OBD2 started to become mandatory for all vehicles in 1996.

The scan tool connector is usually located in the front of the passenger compartment on the driver's side, so that the technician can operate the scan tool and see any Malfunction Indicator Lights (MIL) that may be on the instrument panel at the same time. The scan tool displays the Diagnostic Trouble Codes that have been stored by the vehicle's control system, and it can also carry out some diagnostic tests on vehicle systems. The intention is to provide the technician with enough diagnostic information to be able to identify and rectify faults. When the faults have been rectified, the scan tool can also reset or clear the DTCs.

Multimeters (DMM/DVOM)

Summary

Multimeters are electrical test tools and are used to diagnose problems in vehicle electrical systems, however their use has been reduced with the advent of 'on-board' diagnostics and the use of scan tools.

Digital Multimeters (DMM) or Digital Volt Ohm Meters (DVOM) as they are also commonly known are very widely used in the automotive industry, and are the most generally useful testing tools. In







the hands of a qualified operator the DVOM can be used to diagnose very complex problems in vehicle electrical systems, however some of this testing work has been shortened or eliminated with the introduction of on-board diagnostics and the use of scan tools.

There are several types of DVOM available at different price points. The more substantial and usually more expensive types have more functions and are generally more reliable. In some locations many meters are known more commonly by their brand name.

Description

The DVOM is an electronic measuring instrument that combines several functions in one unit. The most basic instruments include an ammeter, voltmeter, and ohmmeter.

The meter usually has a central rotating selection switch which is used to select the electrical test function that the meter is going to be used for, and a set of input points that are used to connect the meter to the item/circuit being tested by test leads. Most meters also have a safety fuse fitted (of about 10 amps maximum) for operational safety and to prevent damage to the meter should it be connected to excessive electrical loads.

Some additional features available in some multimeter units:

A continuity tester that makes an audible sound when a circuit is not broken, or shorted.

Digital numerical output of the quantity under test.

An amplifier to sense small voltages, currents and high resistances.

Measurements of inductance and capacitance.

Tests of diodes and transistors.

Scales and sockets for temperature measurement with standard thermocouples.

An intermediate-frequency oscillator, a detector and an audio amplifier with a speaker, to diagnose and tune radio circuits.

A slow oscilloscope. This is available mainly in high-end computer-controlled multimeters.

Test light







Summary A test light is tool for testing circuits. It usually has a light that indicates the presence of an electrical current in the circuit to which it is

attached.

A test light is a basic circuit testing tool.

It consists of a mobile probe with a small lamp or light bulb attached, connected via an insulated wire or cable to a small clip that can be clamped to a suitable return point for completing the circuit. When each end of the tester is connected to a circuit carrying a voltage, then the lamp will light up. The metal probe is usually sharp enough to penetrate cable insulation so that the tester can connect directly with the conducting wire inside.

Hydrometer

Summary A hydrometer is an instrument used for determining the specific gravity of liquids. Common applications of a hydrometer are in battery

testing for state of charge and coolant testing for coolant concentrate to water ratio.







An hydrometer is an instrument that measures the specific gravity of fluids. 'Specific gravity' means the relative density of the fluid in comparison to the density of water.

The hydrometer is usually made of glass and it consists of a chamber to contain some of the fluid to be measured and a calibrated float.

If the mass of any object is greater than its equivalent volume of fluid, then it will not float in the fluid, but will sink. For instance, a steel ball is heavier than an equivalent-sized ball of water, so it will not float in water. By contrast, if the mass of an object is less than the equivalent volume of fluid, it will float. For instance, a table tennis ball is much lighter than a table tennis ball-sized volume of water, so it will float in water.

The floating force acting on the object is always equal to the weight of the fluid being displaced by the mass of the object. Therefore, if the fluid was a very heavy fluid, it is possible that the steel ball could float, and if the fluid was an extremely light fluid, it is possible that a ping-pong ball would not float, but instead would sink.

In the hydrometer, the float will ride higher or lower in the water depending on the density of the fluid it is floating in. The calibrations on the float at the fluid level indicate the specific gravity of the fluid.

In the automotive industry, hydrometers are used to measure the specific gravity of fluids such as battery electrolyte to assess the acid concentration; radiator coolant to assess the freeze point, and diesel fuel to determine the Cetane level.

Using an angle grinder

Summary

The angle grinder uses an electric motor to drive an abrasive disc at high speed. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to correctly use an angle grinder.

Part 1. Preparation and safety


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Objective

Show the correct operating procedure for using an angle grinder.

Personal safety

Whenever you perform a task in the workshop you must use personal protective clothing and equipment that is appropriate for the task and which conforms to your local safety regulations and policies. Among other items, this may include:

Work clothing - such as coveralls and steel-capped footwear

Eye protection - such as safety glasses and face masks

Ear protection - such as earmuffs and earplugs

Hand protection - such as rubber gloves and barrier cream

Respiratory equipment - such as face masks and valved respirators

If you are not certain what is appropriate or required, ask your supervisor.

Safety check

Always wear impact-resistant protective glasses, ear protection and a full-face shield when using an angle grinder.

Disconnect the power supply when changing any grinding attachments or discs.

Wear safety shoes, leather gloves and an apron to protect your body from flying metal chips. Make sure the blade guard is firmly secured.

Use the correct type of disc.

Make sure the guard handles are secure.

Use the correct flange or spindle nut for the type of disc being used. If you don't, the disc can shatter at high speed and injure you.

Angle grinders, like all portable grinding tools, need to be equipped with safety guards to protect you from flying fragments in case the disc breaks apart.

Always follow the manufacturer's recommendations to make sure the spindle wheel does not exceed the abrasive wheel specifications.

Make sure there are no obvious defects or damage to the disc before you install it.

Everyone who uses an angle grinder must receive training and instruction in safe work procedures.

Make sure that you understand and observe all legislative and personal safety procedures when carrying out the following tasks. If you are unsure of what these are, ask your supervisor.

Points to note

The angle grinder uses an electric motor to drive an abrasive disc at high speed.

The grinder disc is turned at speeds that range from 5,000 rpm to 12,000 rpm.

The turning disc is used to grind or cut metal.

The grinder size relates to the diameter of the cutting disc. This can range from 100 mm to 230 mm (4 inches to 9 inches). The size of grinder you use depends on the type of job you are doing.

The smaller the grinder, the higher the speed it turns.

Sanding discs and wire wheels can be fitted on the grinder, making it a versatile electric tool.

An extra handle is provided that is attached to the grinder head. This can be fitted to either the left, right or top of the head to make it easy to use for left-handed as well as right-handed people.

The abrasive disc or cutting wheel is attached to the grinder by a flange and nut. The nut is specially designed to fit in a recess in the center of the pad or wheel. It is tightened by a spanner that is provided with the grinder when purchased. Do not lose this wrench because it is the only tool that can tighten the nut properly.

When using cutting discs you should always use the edge of the disc rather than the face.

Do not confuse a grinder with a sander/polisher. The sander/polisher turns at lower speeds, typically 600 to 3,000 rpm. They are commonly used to sand and polish paint. The pads these tools use cannot be turned at high speed. If the polish pad were attached to an angle grinder, the higher rotational speed would cause the polishing pad to burn the paint and cause the polish pad to fly apart.

Part 2: Step-by-step instruction

1. Position the discHold the face of the disc against the work, not the edge.

2. Work carefullyBe careful that the motor’s torque does not cause the grinder to slip out of your hand. Do not press too hard. Let the grinder do the work.

3. Select the correct discUse special discs for cutting, in places where a hacksaw can’t be used. With cutting discs, use the edge of the wheel, not the face.

Using a bench grinder

Summary







The bench grinder turns an abrasive wheel or wire brush wheel at high speed. These wheels are used to remove metal from a work piece, sharpen tools and clean parts. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to set up, adjust and use a bench grinder.


Objective

Set up, adjust and use a bench grinder.

Personal safety








Safety check

Stand to the side of the grinder when starting the electric motor.

Always wear full-face protection, ear protection, leather gloves and a leather apron.

Use the safety shield fitted to the grinder. If it has been damaged, replace it.

Do not grind on the side of the wheel because it may cause the wheel to shatter.

Make sure you understand and observe all legislative and personal safety procedures when carrying out the following tasks. If you are not sure of what these are, ask your supervisor.

Points to note

The bench grinder turns an abrasive wheel or wire brush wheel at high speed. These wheels are used to remove metal from a work piece, sharpen tools and clean parts.

The type of wheel you use will depend on the type and the hardness of the material.

Whether you are grinding or polishing, use the correct wheel for the material you are grinding or buffing.

Ask your supervisor to demonstrate the differences between grinding wheels for soft and hard materials and wire brush wheels.

As the abrasive wheel wears down, the gap between the wheel and the tool rest will increase.

Make sure the tool rest is as close as possible to the grinding wheel, but not touching it. It needs about a 1/16th of an inch (1.5 mm) gap.

The face of the abrasive wheel must be kept square. This is done with a dressing tool, which removes some of the abrasive compound.

If the abrasive wheel is not square, ask your supervisor to demonstrate the use of the dressing tool.

When grinding metal, it must not overheat. This will affect its hardness. If the metal becomes too hot and is allowed to cool slowly, it may become soft. If it is cooled quickly (quenched), it may become brittle.

As you shape the metal, dip it into the water pot attached to the bottom of the grinder. This will prevent the metal from getting too hot.

Some bench grinders are not supplied with a water pot. If this is the case, you will need to have a water pot located near the grinder so that you can cool the piece you are grinding.

Component identification

Some parts of this illustration are labeled. It is important to learn the names of these equipment components.


1. Set up the bench grinderBefore you start using the bench grinder, it’s vital that you set it up correctly. When

operating, the abrasive wheel turns at high speed and produces dangerous and hot flying particles and sparks. Make sure the grinder is both switched off and disconnected from the power supply before you attempt to adjust it.

2. Use the correct safety equipmentCertain safety attachments MUST be in place before operating the grinder. They are the wheel guard, the see-through safety shield, the tool rest, a water pot and a full-face protector.

3. Use the correct wheelThe grinder may have abrasive grinding wheels for removing metal, a wire wheel to clean parts, or both. Make sure the wheel you’re using is appropriate for the job.

4. Adjust the tool restWith the correct wheel fitted to the grinder, adjust the tool rest. Position it so there’s at least 1/16th of an inch gap between the wheel, and the tool rest and that it is the same height as the center of the wheel. To adjust the tool rest, locate the adjusting bolt and loosen it with a box wrench. Set the tool rest at the right height and distance from the wheel and then tighten the adjusting bolt. If you are unsure of how to do this, ask your supervisor.

5. Safely use the grinderConnect the grinder to the power supply. Adjust your face protector, stand to the side of the wheel and switch the grinder on. Once the grinder is up to speed, move to the front of the wheel, hold the part firmly onto the tool rest, and move it slowly and gently forward until it comes into contact with the wheel. The grinding wheel removes the metal it contacts. Occasionally dip the part into the water to keep it cool.

6. Shut downWhen you have finished, turn off the power and unplug the grinder.

Using pressure washers & cleaners







Summary

The objective of this procedure is to show you how to safely use pressure washers and cleaners in the workshop. Familiarize yourself with the equipment prior to use, as misuse can cause damage.


Objective

Safely use pressure washers and cleaners in the workshop.

Personal safety








Safety check

Wear protective gloves whenever using cleaning agents or solvents.

Always wear a facemask and gloves when using cleaning and washing equipment.

Always wear safety shoes when using any washing equipment to prevent slips on slippery surfaces.

Always be aware of the location of safety switches located on equipment and of eyewash and first aid stations should an accident occur.

Do not place your hand, or any other part of your body in the stream of water from the high-pressure wand

Do not aim the high-pressure wand at another person.

Always test the temperature of the wand and the hose before you pick it up. The handle of the pressure wand is insulated to protect the user from heat, but the wand extension and the hose are not.

If the pressure cleaner uses a heating element, turn the heater off and allow water to flow through the wand until is has cooled before you turn the unit off.

If you are unfamiliar with a solvent or a cleaning agent refer to the MSDS for information about its correct use and applicable hazards.

Always wear protective clothing and the appropriate safety equipment.


Points to note

Pressure washers and cleaners used in automotive applications are available in a range of makes and types depending on application. There are fixed washers for cleaning components and mobile pressure washers that can be used to wash vehicle systems and engine bays.

Make yourself familiar with the equipment prior to use; incorrect handling can result in damage to the vehicle or components that you are cleaning in addition to health risks to yourself and your workmates.

The biggest advantage of using fluid to clean vehicles, components and workshops is that it wets the dirt or contaminants, so no dust is created. However, the waste products must be caught and disposed of properly in either a tank or sullage pit. The waste materials must not be released into a storm water drain.

Component washers have to incorporate either an in-built waste recovery system or can only be used where the contaminated washer fluids can be captured to enable disposal in an environmentally friendly manner. They are normally designed to run on low pressure and use a range of chemicals and solvents as the cleaning agent.

A low-pressure air blower is normally provided to remove the fluid from the component into the tray area and then back to the tank by gravity.

Always follow recommended safety procedures. Some washers use very dangerous chemicals and others use very high pressure water to clean away the contaminants.

It is imperative that the user read the instructions beforehand and be familiar with the operation of the pressure washer. When cleaning exterior paintwork, extreme care must be taken to ensure that the pressure does not damage or remove paint. If in doubt, clean the area manually using a clean sponge using fresh clean water.

It is very important to note the type of solvent being used as some vehicle components can be damaged by some solvents and should only be cleaned in wash tanks containing the correct cleaning fluid.

When using high pressure washers, it is always important not to use the high pressure spray in areas where the ingress of water and water based solvents can have a detrimental effect on electrical equipment such as fuse boxes and relay units. If you are required to use a pressure washer in an adjacent area of the vehicle, take precautionary measures to protect the units from high-pressure water damage. The damage sometimes does not become apparent for some time after the cleaning process, but can have a catastrophic effect on the vehicle, causing system failures, which are difficult to diagnose.

If the washer has been used on the braking system, ensure that the vehicle is driven for a small distance with the brakes slightly applied to dispel any residual water from the system through heat transfer and subsequent evaporation of the water.

On completion of the job, the correct disposal of contaminated materials is an absolute priority. Operatives of equipment may be subject to prosecution for the incorrect disposal of waste materials.

Familiarize yourself with the equipment prior to use, as misuse can cause damage.

Avoid using solvent when cleaning components as it contaminates friction materials and may cause seals to swell. Water is a good cleaning agent for brake components.

Never use Kerosene as a general cleaning agent to clean brake components as it does not clean away brake fluid, can be absorbed into lining materials and can cause seals to swell.

Whenever using a pressure washer or tank type cleaner with solvents and cleaners make sure there is adequate exhaust ventilation. Wear appropriate breathing apparatus and eye protection.


1. Choose the correct washerUse the correct washer for the task you are performing, and always refer to the manufacturers manual for specific operating instructions. Before using the equipment locate the position of safety switches and put on a facemask and gloves. Note the location of the eyewash and first aid stations within the workshop. Use a component washer to clean items that can be safely contained within the cleaning tray. Use a pressure washer to clean vehicles, engines and engine bays.

2. Use a component washerMake sure that all the washing fluid is contained within the cleaning tray and returns to the reservoir. Washing solvents must not enter the environment. Before using the component cleaner, make sure the solvent is compatible with the component to be cleaned. Put on a facemask and gloves and lift the component to be cleaned into the wash tray. Make sure the waste drain is not blocked and the low-pressure air blower is operational.

3. Clean and dry the componentUsing a stiff brush, paint the solvent over the components to both wet and clean the components and remove contaminants. Use the low-pressure air blower to dry excess solvent from the component,and make sure the waste materials are caught in the cleaning tray and strained back into the tank below.

4. Use a high-pressure washerFollow the manufacturers instructions and connect the pressure washer hose to the mains pressure water supply, and the electrical plug to an earth leakage protected power outlet. Make sure electrical connections and adjacent areas are protected from water spray by using appropriate protective shields. Put on a facemask and gloves and turn on the water supply but not the electrical power. Make sure that water is flowing through the washer unit by testing the flow through the pressure wand before turning the power on. It should flow freely but not at high pressure.

5. Turn the power onTurn the power on and you will hear the motor engage. Point the wand toward the ground and test that the water now flows at high pressure.

6. Use a degreaserIt may be necessary to apply a degreasing agent with a hand brush to penetrate and remove excess dirt before you operate the washer.

7. Clean the componentPull the trigger and using a circular motion direct the high-pressure water onto the area to be cleaned to remove the contaminants. Avoid getting the high-pressure spray on the exterior paintwork of the vehicle by placing the wand close to the area to be cleaned. When the contaminants have been removed, release the trigger and then remove the wand from the cleaning area. Turn the electrical power off then turn the water supply off.

8. Check vehicle operationUse an air blower to disperse any residual water from electrical components that have come into contact with the cleaning fluids, and then start the vehicle. Let the vehicle run for a few moments to dry, and then remove any residual water lying in the engine bay area. Clean up any residual material and place in a bin or an environmental waste container.

Using an air drill

Summary

Unlike battery and electric powered drills, air drills do not require electricity to operate. They are safer in an environment where flammable materials are present. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to correctly operate an air drill.


Objective

Demonstrate the correct operation of an air drill.







Personal safety








Safety check

Make sure you direct the air exhaust of air tools away from yourself and others working in the area.

Always wear eye protection when using air tools.

Air tools generally produce more noise than electric tools, so wear ear protection when using air tools.


Points to note

The amount of torque an air drill can produce will be determined by the pressure in the air system feeding it.

Air drills are smaller and turn at slower speeds than electric drills. Their power can be compared to a battery-powered drill.

Unlike battery and electric powered drills, air drills do not require electricity to operate. They are safer in an environment where flammable materials are present.

Air tools are attached to the air supply by fittings that allow the supply to be connected and disconnected easily. Over time, these connections wear and produce an air leak. If the air leak is excessive, the output of the air tool will be reduced.

Air tools require lubrication. Most workshops have an automatic oiler incorporated in the air supply system. If your workshop does not have an automatic oiler, you will need to lubricate the air tools daily. Apply a few drops of oil to the inlet of the air tool before you use it.


1. Wear safety protectionAn air drill is used in an environment where an electric drill would be unsafe to use. For example, where a spark may ignite flammable liquid. Because it relies on compressed air, it is not as powerful as an electric drill. Nor does it turn as fast. Make sure you are wearing the correct safety gear before you start. Goggles and ear protectors are usually sufficient. But if you’re using a wire brush to remove carbon, rust or worn gaskets, you should wear full-face protection against the flying particles.

2. Check the lubricationIf the air drill does not have an automatic self-lubricating system, apply a few drops of light oil to the air inlet everyday.

3. Attach the air hoseAttach the workshop’s air hose to the drill, and check the hose and fittings for any damage or obstruction.

4. Work slowly and carefullyWork slowly and carefully, being careful not to snag the air hose, or allow the drill to touch any components other than the one you’re working on.

5. Clean upClean up the work area, then dismantle the air drill and put the cleaned attachments away securely.

Using an air impact wrench

Summary

The best use of an air impact wrench is to remove wheel lug nuts. Do not use an impact wrench to tighten wheel lug nuts. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to correctly use an air impact wrench.


Objective

Demonstrate the correct operation of an air impact wrench.







Personal safety








Safety check



Air tools generally produce more noise than electric tools, so wear ear protection when using air tools.


Points to note

The amount of torque an air impact wrench can produce will be determined by the pressure in the air system feeding it. Because this pressure will vary, there is no way of determining how much torque an impact wrench is applying to a fastener, so it is easy to over- or under-tighten fasteners.

The best use of an air impact wrench is to remove wheel lug nuts. Do not use an impact wrench to tighten wheel lug nuts.

Every impact wrench will have a control mechanism, so that it can be driven in either direction.

Always use six-point impact sockets when using an air impact wrench. Impact sockets are manufactured from a different blend of materials and have thicker walls than a standard socket.


Air tools require lubrication. Most workshops have an automatic oiler incorporated in the air supply system. If your workshop does not have an automatic oiler, you will need to lubricate the air tools daily. Apply a few drops of oil to the inlet of the air tool before you use it.

An air impact wrench should be used to take up the looseness in a nut or stud. The final tightening must be undertaken by using a torque wrench set to the manufacturer's specifications.


1. Choose the correct toolUse the impact wrench, sometimes called the “rattle gun”, to loosen and remove the lug nuts on the wheels. The power and the vibration will loosen a tight nut, because of the torque produced by the wrench.

2. Adjust the direction of operationAdjust the direction of spin: forward or backward with the wrench lever.

3. Adjust the amount of torqueTurn the valve to increase or reduce the torque.

4. Correctly remove fastenersNever fully tighten the wheel nuts. If you over tighten them, the bolts may fail and cause the wheel to shear off the vehicle while it is moving. Always finish the job with a lug nut wrench.

5. Use special socketsMake sure only to use the special impact sockets, extensions and joints. These sockets are special 6-point types and can withstand the sudden force that the impact wrench produces.

Using an air blow gun

Summary

Air tools are attached to the air supply by fittings that allow the supply to be connected and disconnected easily. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to correctly operate an air blowgun.


Objective

Demonstrate the correct operation of an air blowgun.

Personal safety














Safety check

Do not use the air blowgun to clean brake dust from brake components. It will disperse the dust through the workshop.

Do not use a high pressure air blowgun to disperse liquid solvents or fuels. A low pressure blowing action can help these volatile materials to evaporate more quickly, but a high pressure air jet could atomize the liquid, allowing it to form a flammable mixture.


Do not point the air blowgun at other people.

Never use the air blowgun to blow air over yourself or other people.



Points to note

Pull the trigger gently and modulate the flow of air through the nozzle. If too much air is allowed through, you may blow dirt particles into the workshop.


Check connections between the air hose and the tool connection every time you use it. If there is obvious wear, replace or repair any poor connections.


1. Attach the air supplyThe simplest air tool is a blowgun or air duster. It’s used to spray compressed air with a valve, which is operated by a lever. Fit the blowgun to the end of the workshop air hose. Make sure the fittings are screwed in tightly.

2. Wear safety protectionThe air gun is used to blast dirt and debris out of confined spaces. To avoid injury, be sure to wear eye and ear protection whenever you use the air gun.

3. Correct operationDo NOT use the air gun to dust yourself off because you risk injury. Be sure to direct the air jet away from yourself, and away from anybody else who may be working nearby.

Using an air chisel

Summary

Air chisels act in a similar manner to a jackhammer, however their size makes their cycling rate faster. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to correctly use an air chisel.


Objective

Demonstrate the correct use of an air chisel.







Personal safety








Safety check

Make sure you direct the exhaust of air tools away from yourself and others working in the area.


An air chisel's operation produces a noise level that exceeds the maximum exposure level for human ears. Always wear ear protection when using an air chisel.


Points to note

Air chisels act in a similar manner to a jackhammer, however their size makes their cycling rate faster.

Place the tool bit against the work piece before you pull the trigger.

Use the correct attachment for the task you are performing. Incorrect use can create a large amount of damage in a short time.

Air tools are attached to the air supply by fittings that allow the supply to be connected and disconnected easily. Over time, these connections wear and develop an air leak. If the air leak is excessive, the output of the air tool will be reduced.

Air tools require lubrication. Most workshops have an automatic oiler incorporated in the air supply system. If your workshop does not have an automatic oiler or if the automatic oiler is not operating, you will need to lubricate the air tools daily. Apply a few drops of oil to the inlet of the air tool before you use it.


1. Select and fit the bitFit the appropriate bit into the nozzle of the gun.

2. Position the chiselPosition the chisel so it’s pointing directly away from you and fits squarely on to the work piece. Be sure NOT to pull the trigger until the bit is pressed against the piece to be cut. Wear appropriate eye and ear protection.

3. Work slowlyApply gentle pressure to the chisel and pull the trigger. Allow the chisel to do the work, and work slowly around the bolt head.

Repairing an external thread







Summary

A die is a metalworking tool used to repair or cut new outside threads on fasteners. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to use a die to repair damaged threads in an automotive component.


Objective

Use a die to repair damaged threads in an automotive component.

Personal safety








Safety check

Use safety eyewear when using cutting equipment.

Do not run your fingers down a newly cut thread. It has many sharp edges that will cut your fingers and small metal particles will start an infection in the cut.


Points to note

A die is a metalworking tool used to repair or cut new outside threads on fasteners.

The die is installed in a tool called a "die stock". It gives the leverage to turn the die over the new thread. The diestock locates the die in place using thumbscrews that match indentations in the outer edge of the die.

The die has a top and a bottom. The bottom has tapered threads to guide the thread into the die.

Use a thread cutting compound with the die. It will keep the cutting edge of the die sharp, allowing it to be used many times.

If cutting a new thread on a bolt or stud, make sure the top of the shank is square. This will help lead the die teeth squarely onto the shank.

Make sure the die is square to the shaft of the stud or bolt at the start of the thread cutting process.

When cutting or repairing a thread, once the die has started to cut, turn the die about a quarter of a turn then back off. Cut another quarter of the thread and back off again. Continue until the thread has been cut. This action clears the cutting teeth of any scrap and gives a better finish.

Once the thread has been cut and the die removed, clean the new thread with a wire brush. This will remove any sharp edges and any left over scrap from the new thread.

Do not use a wrench to tighten the die locating thumbscrews.


1. Determine the thread sizeUse a thread pitch gauge to confirm the size of the bolt or stud. This should match the thread it will go into.

2. Choose the correct dieChoose the correct size and type of tap and die set for the job. It will be either Inch or Metric.

3. Fit the die to the die stockFit the die into the diestock, using the locating screw on the stock to engage the hole on the die and secure it into place.

4. Apply thread cutting compoundApply a small amount of thread cutting compound to the exposed, damaged threads of the bolt. If the bolt or stud is a separate item, hold it upright in a vise. Make sure the vise is equipped with soft jaws so you don’t damage the thread any further. Then tighten the vise so that the bolt is vertical.

5. Rotate the die stock clockwiseSlowly and carefully turn the diestock in a clockwise direction onto the damaged bolt. Make sure to keep the pressure vertically above the bolt. You will feel the die removing the metal from the bolt. Continue to turn the die until you reach the depth to which the matching nut will be tightened.

6. Remove the die counterclockwiseTo remove the die, turn the diestock counter-clockwise up and away from the bolt. Clean any filings or particles from the cutting threads of the die.

7. Clean and testUse a rag and then a wire brush to clean the compound and metal particles from the thread of the bolt before you remove it from the vise. Test the job by using the correct size nut and tightening it by hand all the way down the bolt or rod. If the repair is sound, dismantle the die from the diestock, clean them both and put them away safely.

Repairing an internal thread

Summary







The objective of this procedure is to show you how to use a tap to repair damaged threads in an automotive component. There are three different types of thread taps: starting, intermediate and finishing.


Objective

Use a tap to repair damaged threads in an automotive component.

Personal safety








Safety check

Use safety eyewear when using cutting equipment.

The teeth of a tap are sharp. Be careful when handling the tap so that you do not injure yourself.


Points to note

There are three different types of thread taps: starting, intermediate and finishing.

A starting tap has a well tapered end, which is why it is sometimes called a "taper" tap. This allows the tap gradually to cut deeper threads as it passes through the job. It can be used to cut a thread in work that has a thin enough section to allow the tap to pass through it. It is also used to perform the first cut in a blind hole.

An intermediate, or second tap is used for the second cut in a blind hole. It has fewer tapers than a tapered tap, which allows the threads at the bottom of the hole to be more complete.

A finishing, bottoming or plug tap is designed to cut the final thread into a blind hole. It has almost no taper, so the threads it cuts extend to the bottom of the hole.

Use a thread cutting compound with the thread tap. It will keep the cutting edge of the tap sharp, allowing it to be used many times.

When cutting a new thread into a hole, make sure the tap is square to the work piece. This will help lead the teeth to cut squarely onto the shank.

When cutting or repairing a thread, once the tap has started to cut, turn it about a quarter of a turn then back off, then cut another quarter thread and back off again. Continue until the thread has been cut. This action clears the cutting teeth of any scrap and gives a better finish.

Once the thread has been cut and the tap removed, clean the new thread with an air duster.

Do not use an impact wrench on the tap.

Practice on a scrap component before attempting a real one.


1. Choose the correct tapChoose the correct size and type of tap you need to repair the thread, either in Metric or Inch.

2. Determine the thread sizeDetermine the thread size of the screw that should fit the damaged hole. Use a thread pitch gauge to confirm the size.

3. Select corresponding tapSelect the corresponding tap size and type: either a taper, intermediate or bottoming tap.

4. Fit the tap to the tap wrenchSelect either a T-handle wrench or a hand-held tap wrench, and fit the square end of the tap shank into the chuck on the wrench then tighten the chuck.

5. Apply thread cutting compoundApply a small amount of thread cutting compound to the cutting teeth of the tap. Position the tap in the damaged hole, making sure that it’s square to the hole and not at an angle.

6. Rotate the tap clockwiseSlowly and carefully turn the tap wrench in a clockwise direction into the damaged hole. You will feel the tap removing the metal from inside the hole, making the thread. Continue to turn the tap until it has bottomed in the hole or has passed all the way through.

7. Remove the tap counterclockwiseTo remove the tap, turn the wrench counter-clockwise up and out of the hole. Clean any filings or particles from the cutting threads and the flute of the tap before you remove it from the wrench.

8. Clean out the hole and test itClean out any filings or particles from the hole you have just repaired. You can then test the repair by using the correct size screw or bolt and tightening it by hand. Sometimes you’ll find the damage was so severe that the tap wrench procedure fails to fix the problem. If this happens refer the job to your supervisor.

Removing a stud

Summary







Stud removers are used to remove damaged studs when jam and drive nuts cannot perform the task. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to remove and replace a stud with a jam and drive nut or a stud remover.


Objective

Remove and replace a stud with a jam and drive nut or a stud remover.

Personal safety








Safety check

Do not apply too much force to old and corroded studs. They may break if too much force is applied to them.


Points to note

Studs can be removed and refitted using two different methods:

o Jam and drive nut

o Stud remover

The jam and drive nut method is used when the stud is re-used because it does not damage the stud.

Stud removers are used to remove damaged studs when jam and drive nuts cannot perform the task.

The most common type of stud remover consists of a frame with two holes and a knurled offset movable set of jaws.

The holes are two different sizes. When you slide the stud remover over the stud, select the hole that allows the jaw to have the best purchase.

Measure the exposed length of the existing stud before removal.

After the stud has been removed, compare it to the new one. They should be the same thread and pitch.

When fitting the new stud, apply the correct thread coating compound. It may be thread locking compound or an anti-rusting agent.


1. Use penetrating fluidIf the stud is rusted in place, soak the base of the stud threads with penetrating fluid to remove the corrosion and make it easier to take out. If possible, let the penetrating fluid soak in overnight.

2. Measure the old studBefore working on the old stud, measure its exposed portion to verify the new stud is the same size. Note the measurement.

3. Install the ‘drive’ nutFind two nuts with the same size and thread as the old stud, and thread one of these all the way down to the bottom of the stud. This will be the ‘drive’ nut.

4. Install the ‘jam’ nutThread the second nut all the way down until it sits on top of the drive nut. This second nut will be the ‘jam’ nut.

5. Tighten the 'jam' nutSecure an open-end wrench to the bottom “drive” nut and hold it in position. Then tighten the “jam” nut against the “drive nut” with a box or open-end wrench. The jam nut will now prevent the drive nut from moving.

6. Turn the ‘drive’ nutUse the open-end wrench to turn the bottom drive nut counter-clockwise. The drive nut applies the turning force to the stud and forces it to unscrew.

7. Remove the studContinue to rotate the drive nut until the stud comes out.

8. Attach the stud removerIf jam and drive nuts don’t budge the stud, you can use a stud remover. Slide the stud remover over the old stud and seat it flush with the surface of the component. Turn the jaws in a counter clockwise direction until the stud is held tight.

9. Turn counterclockwiseFit a wrench onto the stud remover and turn the wrench in a counter-clockwise direction. The stud remover will grip the stud and turn it. Continue to rotate the stud, using the wrench, until the stud comes out.

10. Inspect for damageOnce you’ve removed the old stud, inspect the internal thread of the hole for any damage

Using a screw extractor

Summary







Screw extractors are available in two common types: one has reverse threads and the other has straight flutes. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to use a screw extractor to remove a broken stud or screw.


Objective

Use a screw extractor to remove a broken stud or screw.

Personal safety








Safety check

Always wear eye protection when drilling and removing a broken stud or bolt.


Points to note

Fasteners can fail for many reasons: over-tightening, over-stressing, fatigue and old age are all possible causes.

If the fastener is broken near the surface, a screw extractor will be needed to remove it.

Screw extractors are available in two common types: One has reverse threads and the other has straight flutes.

The fastener needs to be drilled before the screw extractor can be inserted.

Always drill to the size recommended by the screw extractor instructions. If you are unsure of the correct size, ask your supervisor.

If a fastener is rusted into place, use a penetrating fluid on the threads and allow it time to work before attempting to loosen it.

Sometimes the fastener can be made easier to remove by the application of heat to the surrounding area. Ask your supervisor to demonstrate this to you.

When fitting a replacement stud, apply the recommended coating to the thread. It may be thread locking or anti-seize compound. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on the application and use of the compound.

Use a jam and drive nut to fit the replacement stud.


1. Select the correct tools for the jobOpen your screw extractor set and study the instructions, which should be enclosed. Identify and select the correct size drill and screw extractor for the job.

2. Mark the exact centerWith a center punch, mark the exact center of the broken screw to get the power drill started.

3. Drill a holeDrill a hole through the center of the bolt. Drill only to the depth specified in your screw extractor instructions.

4. Select the correct sizeMake sure you use the correct screw extractor – that is, the one that matches the drill bit you used.

5. Turn extractor counterclockwiseBecause the screw extractor has reverse threads, you will need to remember to turn it counter-clockwise.

6. Use a tap wrenchUse a tap wrench and turn the screw extractor into the hole. The reverse threads will force the extractor into the hole until the broken bolt or stud is forced to turn. Continue turning until the stud is removed.

Using a gear puller

Summary

Gear and bearing pullers are designed for hundreds of applications. Their main purpose is to remove a component, such as a gear, pulley or bearing from a shaft, or to remove a shaft from inside a hole. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to select, install and use a gear puller to remove a pulley.


Objective

Select, install and use a gear puller to remove a pulley.

Personal safety














Safety check

Always wear eye protection when using a gear puller.

Make sure the puller is located correctly on the work piece. If the jaws cannot be fitted correctly on the part, then select a more appropriate puller. Do not use a puller that does not fit the job.


Points to note

Gear and bearing pullers are designed for hundreds of applications. Their main purpose is to remove a component, such as a gear, pulley or bearing from a shaft, or to remove a shaft from inside a hole. Normally these components will have been pressed on to that shaft, or into the hole, so they will need considerable force to remove them.

Gear pullers come in a range of sizes and shapes, all designed for particular applications. They will consist of three main parts:

o Jaws

o Cross Arm

o Forcing Screw

There will normally be two or three jaws on a puller. They will be designed to work either externally around a pulley, or internally.

The forcing screw is a long, fine threaded screw that is applied to the center of the shaft. When the forcing screw is turned, it applies many tons/tonnes of force through the component you are removing.

The cross arm attaches the jaws to the forcing screw. There may be two, three or four arms. If the cross arm has four arms, three of the arms will be spaced 120-degrees apart. The fourth arm will be positioned 180-degrees apart from one arm. This allows the cross arm to be used as either a two- or a three-arm puller.


1. Examine the gear pullerExamine the gear puller you have selected for the job. Identify the jaws – there may be two or three of them, and they must fit the part you want to remove. The cross-arm enables you to adjust the diameter of the jaws. The forcing screw should fit snugly onto the part you’re removing. Finally, select the right size wrench to fit the nut on the end of the forcing screw.

2. Adjust and fit the pullerAdjust the jaws and cross-arms of the puller so that it fits tightly around the part to be removed. The arms of the jaws should be pulling against the component at close to right angles.

3. Position the forcing screwUse the appropriate wrench to run the forcing screw down to touch the shaft. Check that the point of the forcing screw is centered on the shaft. If not, adjust the jaws and cross-arms until the point is in the center of the shaft.

4. Tighten the forcing screwTighten the forcing screw slowly and carefully onto the shaft. Check that the puller is not going to slip off center or off the pulley. Readjust the puller if necessary.

5. Remove the partIf the forcing screw and puller jaws remain in the correct position, tighten the forcing screw and pull the part off the shaft.

Using a torque wrench & an angle gauge

Summary

Vehicle manufacturers specify torque values for certain fasteners. This is to make sure that fasteners are not over- or under-tightened. The torque wrench is used to apply a specified amount of torque to a fastener. The torque angle gauge is used to make sure there is equal tightness of fasteners on a component. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to use a torque angle gauge in conjunction with a torque wrench.


Objective

Use a torque angle gauge in conjunction with a torque wrench.







Personal safety








Safety check

Refer to the manufacturer's specifications when tightening fasteners.

If replacing a fastener, make sure it has the correct tensile value for the task it has to perform.


Points to note

Over-tightening a fastener can damage the gasket and the threads.

Support the head of the torque wrench during its use.

Vehicle manufacturers specify torque values for certain fasteners. This is to make sure that fasteners are not over- or under-tightened.

The torque value will be specified in foot-pounds (lb-ft) or Newton-meters (Nm) and is the amount of twisting force applied to a fastener by the torque wrench.

A foot-pound is described as the amount of twisting force applied to a shaft by a lever one foot long with a weight of one pound placed on the outer end. A torque value of 100lb-ft will be the same as a 100 lb weight placed at the end of a 1-foot-long lever.

A Newton-meter is described as the amount of twisting force applied to a shaft by a lever one meter long with a force of one Newton applied to the outer end. A torque value of 100Nm will be the same as applying a 100 Newton force to the end of a 1-meter long lever.

One lb-ft is equal to 1.35 Nm.

Torque wrench

The torque wrench is used to apply a specified amount of torque to a fastener.

There are various methods used by torque wrenches to indicate that the correct torque has been reached. Some will give an audible signal such as a click or a beep, while others will give a visual signal such as a light or a pin moving or clicking out.

Make sure the threads are clean before tightening the fastener to a specified torque. Any friction will give an inaccurate reading and will affect the compressive force the fastener will apply to the component.

Always handle a torque wrench carefully. It is a precision instrument that will lose its calibration if mistreated.

Torque angle gauge

The torque angle gauge is used to make sure there is equal tightness of fasteners on a component. It is calibrated in degrees.

Tightening by angle rather than torque removes the error that is produced by friction in the threads.

Torque to yield (also known as torque and turn)

Some fasteners are designed to be deliberately over-tightened. These bolts are known as "torque to yield" bolts. The fastener is tightened to a specific torque with a torque wrench, then the torque angle gauge is turned a number of degrees.

When tightened, these fasteners are stretched beyond their elastic limit. So when they are removed, they must be discarded and replaced with new ones.


1. Check the specificationsDetermine the correct torque value for the bolt or fastener you’re using. This will be in Foot-Pounds or Newton Meters. Also, check the torque angle specifications for the bolt or fastener.

2. Tighten the boltTighten the bolt to the specified torque.

3. Install the gaugeInstall the torque angle gauge over the head of the bolt, and then put the torque wrench on top of the gauge.

4. Torque to specificationsTurn the torque wrench the specified number of degrees for that bolt. If the component requires multiple bolts or fasteners, make sure to tighten them all to the same torque value and torque angle.

Using a thread pitch gauge

Summary

Fasteners are used to secure components or pieces of components together. There are two main types of fasteners: inch and metric. They are not compatible. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to identify the common types, length, diameter, grade and thread pitch of threaded fasteners.


Objective

Identify the common types, length, diameter, grade and thread pitch of threaded fasteners.

Personal safety














Safety check

Never use a bolt that has been over-tightened. Its tensile strength is very low and it could break.

Use the correct tool to tighten or loosen bolts, otherwise you could break them.


Points to note

Fasteners are used to secure components or pieces of components together. There are two main types of fasteners: inch and metric. They are not compatible.

Bolts are identified in four ways:

o Length

o Diameter

o Thread Pitch

o Tensile Strength

A bolt’s length is the distance from under the head of the bolt to the far end of the thread. Inch bolts can come in sizes such as 1 1⁄4", 3 1⁄2", etc. Metric bolt sizes might be 25mm, 40mm, etc.

The bolt diameter is the thickness of the bolt shank. This will be 1⁄4" or 1⁄2", etc if it is an inch bolt, or 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, etc if it is a metric bolt.

Fine threads can achieve a greater tightening force than coarse threads.

Coarse threads are used in softer materials because they have a greater grip on the material.

The measurement of thread pitch for UNC and UNF bolts is described in the number of threads-per-inch (TPI).

A UNF bolt may measure 1⁄2" x 3" x 20. That is, the bolt is 3" long, has a shank diameter of 1⁄2" and the threaded area has 20 threads in every inch of thread. A UNC bolt that measures 1⁄2" x 3" x 13 will have the same dimensions but have only 13 threads for every inch of thread.

The length and shank diameter of metric bolts is measured in the same way as UNF and UNC bolts but the measurements are in millimeters, rather than in inches or fractions of an inch. The difference lies in how the thread pitch is measured. Metric bolts define their pitch by the distance between each thread. There are still fine and coarse threads but this time the bolt dimension may be 6mm x 40mm x 1.0 or 1.25 in the case of a fine thread. A coarse threaded bolt of a similar size will have the dimensions of 6mm x 40mm x 1.75 or 2.0.

The suitability of a bolt for an application is determined by its tensile strength and its yield strength. The tensile strength is defined as the maximum stretching stress a bolt can withstand without breaking. The yield strength is the maximum stress a bolt can withstand and still return to its original form.

There are two standards of bolt grading in use. The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) and the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) apply the ANSI standard. This grading applies to the strength of the bolt. The second is the International Standards Organization (ISO) grading for tensile strength and yield strength of the bolt.

A bolt graded by the ANSI standard is identified by the number of lines arranged around the head of the bolt. The minimum value of tensile strength is defined as 2. A bolt of this value has no lines on its on its head.

o 0 lines = Grade 2 tensile strength

o 3 lines = Grade 5

o 5 lines = Grade 7

o 6 lines = Grade 8

A high grade-value = a high tensile value.

The ISO standard uses two numbers on the head of the bolt. The first number indicates the tensile strength; the second number signifies the yield strength.

If a bolt is marked 8.8, it has a tensile strength of 800 MegaPascals (MPa) and a yield strength value of 640 MPa, 80% of its tensile strength. A marking of 10.9 indicates a tensile value of 1000 MPa with a yield strength of 900 MPa, 90% of its tensile strength.

o 4 = 400 MPa

o 5 = 500 MPa

o 8 = 800 MPa

o 10 = 1000 MPa

o .5 = 50%

o .6 = 60%

o .7 = 70%, etc.

Always use a bolt suitable for the application. If a bolt with too high tensile strength is used and not tightened to its designed value, it may fail. That is because high tensile bolts have less resistance to fatigue than bolts with a lower tensile value.


1. Choose a pitch gaugeTo determine the thread pitch of a particular fastener, you need to use a thread pitch gauge.

2. Check gauge markingsOpen out the pitch gauge set and examine the markings on the toothed blades. The markings will be either in inch units or in metric units. The numbers stamped on the toothed blade of an inch gauge set indicate the number of threads per inch of thread length. For example: 16 threads to the inch. Look at the numbers on the blade of a Metric pitch gauge set. The numbers indicate the width between each thread in millimeters. For example: a thread pitch of 1.5 millimeters.

3. Measure a known sizeChoose a fastener of a size you know. Say, 3/8inch U-N-C bolt. Using your inch gauge set, select each blade and hold the toothed edge against the thread of the bolt. Continue trying the blades until you find one that matches exactly the thread on your bolt. Check the number on the blade; it should read 16. That is, 16 threads per inch.

4. Measure an unknown sizeNow choose a fastener whose size you do not know. If it is a metric bolt, select the metric thread pitch gauge. Repeat the procedure with the blades against the thread of the bolt, until you find a perfect match. Check the number on the blade; it will tell you the thread pitch of this fastener in millimeters.

5. Correctly store gaugeWhen you have finished, be sure to fold all of the blades back into their casing before putting the gauge set away. This is to protect the blade teeth from damage.

Using a vacuum gauge

Summary

A vacuum gauge is used to measure the manifold pressure. In naturally aspirated engines, this pressure is always below atmospheric pressure. It is referred to as a vacuum. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to connect and use a vacuum gauge to check engine manifold vacuum.


Objective

Connect and use a vacuum gauge to check engine manifold vacuum.

Personal safety








Safety check








Points to note

Vacuum gauges are possibly the most useful diagnostic tool in engine diagnosis. They are often forgotten by technicians who may prefer to use modern electronic diagnostic equipment.

A vacuum gauge is used to measure the manifold pressure. In naturally aspirated engines, this pressure is always below atmospheric pressure. It is referred to as a vacuum.

The vacuum gauge reads in either millimeters of mercury (mm Hg) or inches of mercury (in Hg). Those measurements mean the vacuum is strong enough to support a column of mercury in a tube to a height of so many millimeters or inches.

0 in Hg is equal to atmospheric pressure. A fully loaded engine at wide-open throttle will reach close to this reading.

30 in Hg is referred to as a perfect vacuum. It is a point where there is no pressure at all. It is a theoretical number because it is impossible to achieve. An engine decelerating on closed throttle will reach close to this reading.

Healthy engines will create more vacuum in their inlet manifolds than worn engines. So a pressure comparison between a known healthy reading and the engine you are testing can assist in determining the state of wear of the engine.

Refer to the chart below for various vacuum gauge readings.

Engine Speed Gauge Reading Engine Condition

Idle 16" - 22" steady Healthy

Idle 14" - 20" steady Fair but worn

Snap throttleJumps to 2" then on decel moves to 25"

Healthy

Snap throttleJumps to 1" then on decel moves to 22"

Fair but worn

Idle 8" or lessVacuum leak, loose intake manifold

IdleFluctuated between 14" - 19"

Worn valve guides or head gasket blown between 2 cylinders

Idle Reading drops from normalBurnt valve, valve stuck open, misfiring spark plug

Idle 8" - 14"Valve timing incorrect or large camshaft overlap

Idle 14" - 16" Ignition timing wrong

Idle Moves between 12" - 16" Idle mixture incorrect

Slow engine speed rise

Needle falls then rises suddenly

Blocked exhaustWeak valve springs

3000 rpmNeedle fluctuates and worsens with higher rpm

Weak valve springs


1. Examine the gaugeThe vacuum gauge has many uses in vehicle maintenance but its importance in detecting leaks or diagnosing problems is often overlooked. Examine the vacuum gauge that’s used in your workshop. Determine the units of measurement. And be sure to read the printed instructions that accompany the gauge.

2. Fit the gauge to the manifoldIn this case, the vacuum gauge will be used to measure manifold vacuum. Fit the vacuum gauge onto the engine intake manifold. You may need to fit a “Tee” piece to an existing vacuum connection.

3. Start the engineWith the vehicle in neutral or park, and the emergency brake on, start the vehicle’s engine and let it settle into a uniform idle.

4. Check the readingCheck the reading on your vacuum gauge. If the engine has no problems, the reading should be within the range fourteen to twenty- two inches of mercury and the needle steady.

5. Change the load on the engineSnap the throttle open and let it close. You will see the vacuum gauge needle quickly move to near zero then move all the way to almost thirty inches then back to the idle position. Open the throttle slowly. Notice the reaction of the needle.

6. Record your observationsMake sure you keep a record of the readings and needle movements you experience when working with different engine components.

Using a dial indicator

Summary

Dial indicators are used in many types of service jobs. They are particularly useful in determining run-out on rotating shafts and rotors. Dial indicators can measure with an accuracy of 0.001" or 0.01mm. The objective of this procedure is to show you the correct method of measuring using a dial indicator.


Objective

Demonstrate the correct method of measuring using a dial indicator.







Personal safety








Safety check


Points to note

Dial indicators are used in many types of service jobs. They are particularly useful in determining run-out on rotating shafts and rotors.

Run-out is the side-to-side variation of movement when a component is turned.

Dial indicators normally have two separate scales. The needle is able to move numerous times around the outer scale. One full turn may represent 0.1" or 1mm. The small inner scale indicates how many times the outer needle has moved around its scale. In this way, the dial indicator is able to read movement of up to 2" or 1cm.

Dial indicators can measure with an accuracy of 0.001" or 0.01mm.

The type of dial indicator you use will be determined by the amount of movement you expect from the component you are measuring.

They must be fitted so that there is no movement between the dial indicator and the component to be measured.

Most dial indicator sets contain various attachments and support arms so they can be attached to the component. There are other attachments available. These attachments allow the dial indicator to be configured specifically for the measuring task.

When attaching a dial indicator, keep support arms as short as possible. Make sure that all attachments are tightened to prevent unnecessary movement between the indicator and the component.

Make sure the dial indicator pointer is positioned at 90º to the face of the component to be measured.

Always read the dial, face or straight on. A view from the side can give a considerable "parallax" error. Parallax error is a visual error caused by viewing measurement markers at an incorrect angle.

The outer face of the dial indicator can be moved so that the zero can be positioned over the pointer.


1. Select the correct gauge and attachmentSelect the gauge type, size, attachment and bracket, which fit the part you’re measuring. Mount the dial indicator on a firm surface to keep it still.

2. Ensure plunger is at 90 degreesAdjust the indicator so that the plunger is at 90 degrees to the part you’re measuring.

3. Press the plunger halfway inPress the dial indicator gently against the part, and rotate the part –in this case a brake rotor-- one full turn. Keep pressing until the plunger settles about halfway into the indicator.

4. Lock into positionLock the indicator assembly into position.

5. Rotate and readCarefully rotate the brake rotor a couple of times, while you observe the dial readings face on.

6. Record any movementsIf the pointer hovers around a single graduation on the dial, the part has minimal run out, or

surface distortion. If it moves significantly left and right, you should note these variations. Find the point of maximum movement to the left and move the dial so that zero is over this point. Continue to rotate the brake rotor. Find the point of maximum movement to the right, and note the reading. This will indicate the run out value. Continue this rotation several times to confirm the points of maximum variation.

7. Check your resultsCheck your readings against the manufacturers specifications. If the deviation is greater than the specifications allow, consult your supervisor.

Using a feeler gauge

Summary

Feeler gauges are strips of hardened metal that have been ground or rolled to a precise thickness. They can be very thin and will cut through skin if not handled correctly. The objective of this procedure is to show you the correct choice and use of feeler gauge sets.


Objective

Show the correct choice and use of feeler gauge sets.







Personal safety








Safety check

Never use feeler gauges on operating machinery.

Feeler gauges are strips of hardened metal that have been ground or rolled to a precise thickness. They can be very thin and will cut through skin if not handled correctly.


Points to note

There are many types of feeler gauges, each with a specific application.

Feeler gauges usually come in sets with a number of blades. The thickness of each blade is marked in thousandths of an inch and hundredths of a millimeter. A marking of 0.040 indicates the feeler is 40 thousandths of an inch thick. It may also indicate a measurement of 1.02 millimeters. A feeler marked 0.005 indicates the thickness is 5 thousandths of an inch. It may also indicate 0.12 millimeters.

Some sets contain feelers made of brass. These are to take measurements between magnetic components.

When measuring a spark plug gap, it is preferable to use wire feeler gauges. These feelers use accurately machined pieces of wire instead of metal strips.

If the feeler gauge feels too loose when measuring a gap, select the next size larger and measure the gap again. Repeat this procedure until the feeler gauge fits snugly in the gap. If the feeler gauge is too tight, select a smaller size until the feeler gauge fits snugly in the gap.


1. Select correct type of gauge setSelect the appropriate type and size of feeler gauge set for the job you’re working on.

2. Examine the wires or bladesSpread out the wires or blades and examine the markings on them. They indicate the size of the feeler. The measurements may be in inch or metric sizes – or both. They should also be clean, rust-free and undamaged, but slightly oiled for ease of movement.

3. Measure gapSelect the part you wish to check, and make sure it’s clean. Choose one of the smaller wires or blades, and try to insert it in the gap on the part. If it slips in and out easily, choose the next size up. When you find one that touches both sides of the gap, and slides with only gentle pressure, then you’ve found the exact width of that gap.

4. Keep gauges oiledThe oily film on the blade helps to minimize friction. So if you move the gauge and it feels tight, then you’ve got the wrong measurement.

5. Check the specificationsRead the markings on the wire or blade, and check these against the manufacturer’s specifications for this component. If gap width is outside the tolerances specified, refer to your supervisor.

6. Clean up and storeFinish the job by cleaning the feeler gauge set with an oily cloth to prevent rust when you put the set away.


Using a micrometer

Summary

Micrometers are available in metric and inch graduations. Typically, an inch micrometer has an accuracy of 0.001" and a metric micrometer has an accuracy of 0.01mm. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to measure using an outside micrometer.


Objective

Demonstrate the correct method of measuring using an outside micrometer.

Personal safety








Safety check







Points to note

Accurate measurement of components is one of the most important aspects of a technician's job. Inaccuracies lead to an incorrect diagnosis.

Micrometers are available in metric and inch graduations. Common sizes range from 25-150 mm or 1-6 inches. Typically, an inch micrometer has an accuracy of 0.001" and a metric micrometer has an accuracy of 0.01mm.

Some micrometers have an extra "vernier" scale that increases accuracy by a factor of 10 to 0.0001" or 0.001mm. Others will include a small dial gauge that serves the same function as the vernier scale. The dial is located on the micrometer frame where the locking lever is usually located.

The size of the micrometer you will use is determined by its measuring range.

It is important that other factors do not affect a micrometer measurement. For example, if a micrometer is held in your hand, the heat from your fingers can cause the frame to expand and give an inaccurate reading. Always hold the micrometer by the insulating block on the frame. This will prevent the heat from your fingers reaching the micrometer.

It is important that the correct amount of force is applied to the spindle when taking a measurement. The spindle and anvil should just touch the component with a slight amount of drag when the micrometer is removed from the measured piece.

Use the ratchet on the end of the thimble until you learn the correct feel for tightness.

Always clean the micrometer and return it to its protective case when you have finished using it.




1. Handle with careThe outside micrometer is a delicate, precision, measuring instrument, and needs to be handled with care. Make sure the measuring faces are clean of any oil or particles. Use a clean piece of lint free cloth to wipe both faces; and also the item you’re going to measure.

2. Hold the micrometer correctlyInch micrometers give readings measured in units of “thousandth” of an Inch. Metric micrometers work on the same principles, with graduations of one-hundredth of a millimeter. To hold the micrometer correctly, use one hand to hold the frame by the plastic insulating block, and the other hand to hold the sleeve and thimble. Micrometers have a locking mechanism, to prevent movement in the spindle when you take it away from the item you’re measuring.

3. Take a measurementUndo the locking mechanism, and open the micrometer until it is wider than the object to be measured. Make sure that the micrometer is horizontal in relation to the object you’re measuring. Place the anvil against the object, then tighten the thimble gently until it has nearly touched the component. Then using the ratcheting thimble, tighten the micrometer until you feel the thimble clicking. Use the thimble lock to keep the reading constant, and gently withdraw the micrometer.

4. Read the resultsExamine the scale on the sleeve and the thimble. You will find the scale on the sleeve in units, either in parts of an inch or in millimeters. On the thimble you will find a scale in either a thousandth of an inch or a hundredth of a millimeter. Add the sleeve and thimble readings. This will give an accurate reading for the part you have just measured.

5. Assess the informationTake readings at different points on the part to assess the amount of wear. Compare these readings to specifications. This will assist you in determining whether the part conforms to tolerances.

Using a tire pressure gauge

Summary

There are two main types of tire pressure gauges: fixed workshop gauges and portable pocket size gauges. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to use a tire pressure gauge and interpret the readings correctly.


Objective

Use a tire pressure gauge and interpret the readings correctly.

Personal safety














Safety check

Do not inflate tires above the pressure recommended by the tire manufacturer. If you do, the tire may explode or the wheel rim may give way and cause a blowout. The result will almost certainly be personal injury.


Points to note

There are two main types of tire pressure gauges — fixed workshop gauges and portable pocket size gauges.

The two most popular types of pocket tire pressure gauges are the pencil type and the dial type.

The pencil type looks similar to a pencil and contains a graduated sliding extension that is forced out of the sleeve by air pressure when it is attached to the tire valve.

The dial type has a similar fitting to the pencil type but includes a graduated gauge and needle.

Each gauge measures pressures in either pounds per square inch (PSI), kilopascals (kPa) or bar.

One bar is equivalent to 100 kPa and 14.5 PSI.

One PSI is equivalent to around 7 kPa. Some gauges have scales for both units of measurement.

Pocket type tire pressure gauges are inexpensive and more accurate than the gauges provided by service stations. Service station gauges are often damaged by weather, misuse or being run over.

There may also be a significant difference in readings between one service station tire pressure gauge and the gauge from another service station.

If the same pocket type tire pressure gauge is always used to check tire pressures, then there will be no variation of readings.

The tire pressure will vary from vehicle to vehicle, its use and driver preference. Recommended tire pressures are located on the vehicle manufacturer's tire decal. The recommended maximum tire pressure is located on the tire sidewall. Never inflate the tire above the recommended maximum pressure. The tire may explode, or the wheel rim may give way and cause a blowout.


1. Remove the valve capFirst, remove the valve cap from the tire valve. Be sure to place it where you can find it later!

2. Fit pencil gauge to the valveMake sure the graduated sleeve is seated into the gauge body, and then push the tire gauge

chuck firmly onto the head of the valve. If air escapes, adjust the angle and your hand pressure until no more air leaks out.

3. Read the scaleWhen the graduated sleeve slides out, remove the gauge from the valve without moving the sleeve and examine the scale.

4. Add the numbersRead the bottom number, then count the marks. Add them up, and you’ll find the tire pressure

5. Examine dial gaugeWhen using a dial type gauge, check the graduations on the dial. They may be in pounds per square inch, or if it’s a metric gauge they will be in kilopascals or bar. Many gauges have all three graduations: PSI, kilopascals and bar. Once again, remove the valve cap and put it in a safe place.

6. Attach the gauge to the valveAttach the dial pressure gauge to the top of the valve. Adjust your hand pressure and angle, so that no air is escaping from the valve.

7. Read the gaugeWhen the needle has jumped, remove the gauge from the valve, and read the dial. The numbers are by tens, and the marks between are units.

8. Reset the gaugeReset the dial gauge to zero by pressing the button on the neck of the dial. Repeat the procedure for all wheels. Remember to replace the valve cap on each wheel as you go.

9. Check your resultsCheck your tire pressure readings against the specifications in the shop service manual. You will also find a tire decal listing the recommended tire size and pressures. This is usually located on the driver’s door, driver’s door pillar or glove compartment lid.

10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15.

16. Vehicle hoists

17.

18.

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20. Summary21. Vehicle hoists a come in a range of configurations and are designed to meet the particular needs of the workshop. NEVER exceed the safe

working load for the lift and always follow the manufacturer loading and operation instructions.







22.

23. Vehicle hoists raise whole vehicles off the ground so that a technician can more easily work on those parts that are accessible only towards ground level or from underneath.

24. There are a number of different designs and they come in a range of sizes and configurations to meet the particular needs of the workshop. For instance, there are hoists that are mobile, hoists that are designed for use where the ceiling height is limited, and some lifting machines can be linked together electronically so they can be used on longer vehicles such as trucks and buses.

25. The most common types of hoist in general use are known as two-post and four-post hoists:26. Four-post hoist

A four-post hoist is very easy to use. The vehicle is driven between the four posts so that the wheels are resting on two long and narrow platforms, one on each side of the vehicle. The platforms are then raised up, taking the vehicle with them. The underside of the vehicle is accessible, but it is resting on its wheels, so these cannot be removed while the vehicle is on a four-post hoist.

27. Two-post hoistA two-post hoist requires careful positioning of the padded ends of four short arms so that they are under appropriate lifting points, two on each side of the vehicle. The workshop manual for the vehicle will detail where those lifting points are so that the vehicle can be raised without causing structural damage. A two-post hoist leaves the underside of the vehicle very accessible, and also allows a technician to remove the wheels while the vehicle is raised.

28. A single post hoist raises the vehicle on a platform supported by a single solid shaft located centrally under the vehicle. This type of hoist is very compact in the workshop and leaves the perimeter of the vehicle very accessible, but the central post obscures part of the underside of the vehicle.

29. Other types of hoist include: scissor lifts; parallelogram lifts; and mobile or specialty lifts.

30. Safety locksEvery workshop hoist must have a locking device built into it so that the hoist can be secured at the chosen height after the vehicle has been raised. This locking device prevents the vehicle from being accidentally lowered, and holds the vehicle in place, even if the lifting mechanism fails.

31. Technicians should never physically go under a raised vehicle for any reason unless the safety locking mechanism has been activated.32. Ratings and inspections

All hoists are rated for a particular weight and/or type of vehicle, and should never be used for any task other than that recommended by the manufacturer. In particular, a hoist should never be used to lift a vehicle that is heavier than its rated limit.

33. In most countries, there are regulations that require hoists to be periodically inspected and certified as fit for use – usually annually. Before you use a hoist, check the identification plate for its rating, and make sure that is has a current registration or certification label.

Jacks

Summary

Vehicle jacks are used to lift the vehicle and/or to support large components when removing or fitting them from/into a vehicle. All jacks should be regarded as a lifting tool and NOT a supporting tool.

Vehicle jacks are lifting tools used to raise part of a vehicle from the ground prior to removing or fitting components, or to raise heavy components into position.







A jack can be used to raise and support the appropriate part of the vehicle while changing a wheel at the roadside, but a jack must NOT be used to support the weight of the vehicle during any task which requires the technician to get underneath any part of the vehicle.

For all workshop tasks, a jack should only be used to raise the vehicle so that it can then be lowered onto suitably rated and carefully positioned stable jack stands. All jacks must always be used in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions and should be inspected on a regular basis to ensure that they are in full working order.

There are different jacks available for different purposes, including:

Trolley jacks

High lift (or farm) jacks

Bottle jacks

Air Jacks

Scissor Jacks

Fork Lift Jacks

Sliding bridge jacks

Transmission jacks

Make sure that you always use the correct type of jack with the correct weight-bearing capacity for your task.

Stands

Summary







There are a range of types of stands. Each of these types are designed for a particular application and should NEVER be used for a job for which they not recommended.

Jack stands – or axle stands – are adjustable supports that are used with vehicle jacks and are designed to take the weight of the vehicle after the vehicle has been raised by a jack. When they are positioned correctly the vehicle can be lowered onto the stands, and the jack can be moved out of the way.

Lifting devices are also lowering devices, so it is unsafe to work underneath a vehicle that is supported only by a jack, in case it gives way or is accidentally lowered. Jack stands provide a stable support for a raised vehicle that is safer because the vehicle cannot be accidentally lowered while the stands are in place. To lower a vehicle that is on stands, it has to be raised again first, so that the stands can be removed.

There are different types of stand, each designed for a particular application. Stands should never be used for a job for which they not recommended. They normally come in matched pairs and should always be used as a pair. Stands are load rated, and should only be used for loads less than the rating indicated on the stand.



Engine & component hoists

Summary

Engine hoists are designed to be used for lifting engines and other large components during removal and/or fitting to a vehicle. It is important that the equipment together with the chains and/or straps are not used to lift engines or components outside of their limitations as accidents can occur as a result.

Engine hoists, or mobile floor cranes, are capable of lifting very heavy objects such as engines while they are being removed from a vehicle or refitted.

The lifting arm is moved by a hydraulic cylinder and is adjustable for length, although extending the arm reduces its lifting capacity. The supporting legs can also be extended for stability, but the more that both the arm and legs are extended the lower the lifting capacity of the hoist. The safe lifting capacity at various extensions is marked on the arm, and it is important never to exceed the rated weight of the hoist.

The engine or component to be lifted is attached to the arm by a sling or a lifting chain. These too must be rated as capable of lifting weights in excess of the engine or component being lifted, and must be firmly attached before the hoist is raised.





When the engine or other component has been lifted and slowly and carefully moved away from the vehicle, it should be lowered onto an engine stand, or onto the floor. The further off the ground an engine is lifted, the less stable the hoist becomes.

Never use a hoist to lift any weight greater than the lifting capacity of the hoist or its sling or chains.

Using a two-post hoist

Summary

The objective of this procedure is to show you how to lift a vehicle using a two-post hoist. The lifting capacity of the hoist you are using must be rated for a vehicle weight greater than that of the vehicle you are intending to lift. Check the hoist rating and compare it with the weight given in the vehicle service manual.


Objective

Lift a vehicle using a two-post hoist.







Personal safety








Safety check


Points to note

Before lifting any vehicle, make sure the frame is structurally sound. If you see rust or signs of major repair, lifting the vehicle with a hoist may cause damage to the vehicle or may be dangerous to you.

The lifting capacity of the hoist you are using must be rated for a vehicle weight greater than that of the vehicle you are intending to lift. Check the hoist rating and compare it with the weight given in the vehicle service manual.

Make sure you know exactly how to operate the hoist. Take particular care that you know exactly where the "stop" control is so that you can use it quickly in an emergency. Refer to the operations manual for the correct procedure.

Be sure the hoist is fully lowered before positioning the vehicle over it. Check the amount of clearance under the vehicle. Driving a low-slung vehicle over the lifting mechanism may result in damage to the underside of the vehicle.

The lifting points on a vehicle are typically located under the jacking points. Check the vehicle service manual if you are not sure where the lift points are. The lifting arms must be positioned under the center of the lift points, so that the weight of the vehicle is distributed evenly.

Make sure that there will be adequate headroom above the vehicle after it has been raised. Taller vehicles, especially those fitted with roof racks, may need more headroom than you think.

The hoist should be raised so you can comfortably work under it. Lock the lift in place before moving underneath or working on the vehicle.


1. Read instructionsRead the safety instructions that are provided with the hoist. They should be displayed near the lift operating controls. Check the hydraulic system for leaks. Make sure there are no oil spills around or under the hoist.

2. Prepare the hoistThe hoist should be completely down before you attempt to drive the vehicle onto it. You should also check the arms and pads for any signs of damage. Check under the vehicle to make sure there are no parts which will interfere with the hoist operation and that the vehicle is structurally sound and not badly corroded. Check the vehicle’s service manual or your workshop service manual and locate the correct contact points for the lifting pads.

3. Position the vehicleCarefully drive the vehicle onto the hoist and position it centrally. Leave the vehicle in neutral with the emergency brake off. You may need to move the car forward or backward to allow the arms to swing under the car. Position the lifting pads under the vehicle lifting points. Make sure the lifting pads are adjusted to the same height for both sides of the vehicle.

4. Raise the hoist to the vehicleMove to the operating controls and raise the hoist just far enough to come into contact with the vehicle. Make sure that the lifting pads are positioned centrally under the contact points.

5. Raise the vehicle slightlyMake sure nobody is near the vehicle, and then raise it just far enough for the wheels to be

off the floor. Check the position of the lifting pads to make sure they have not moved, and shake the vehicle gently to confirm that it is stable on the hoist.

6. Raise the vehicle completelyOnce you are sure the vehicle is safely positioned on the hoist, lift it to the working height.

7. Engage safety deviceWith the vehicle at the correct height you should now lock the hoist in place and engage whatever safety device is used with it.

8. Lower the vehicleBefore the hoist is lowered, remove all tools and equipment from the hoist area, and wipe up any spilled fluids. Remove the safety device or unlock the lift before lowering it. Make sure nobody is near the vehicle on the hoist before lowering it. Once the vehicle is on the ground you can remove the lifting arms and drive it away from the hoist.

Using a four-post hoist

Summary

Four-post hoists allow the vehicle to be positioned and lifted easily. They are often used to lift a vehicle for wheel alignment services and brake repairs. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to lift a vehicle using a four-post hoist.


Objective

Lift a vehicle using a four-post hoist.







Personal safety








Safety check


Points to note

Four-post hoists allow the vehicle to be positioned and lifted easily. They are often used to lift a vehicle for wheel alignment services and brake repairs.

Some four-post hoists are fitted with attachments that allow the vehicle to be raised in a "wheels free" position. Refer to the operations manual for the correct operational procedure.

The lifting capacity of the hoist you are using must be rated for a vehicle weight greater than that of the vehicle you are intending to lift. Check the hoist rating and compare it with the weight given in the vehicle service manual.

Make sure you know exactly how to operate the hoist, taking particular care to know exactly where the stop control is so that you can use it quickly in an emergency. Refer to the operations manual for the correct procedure for stopping the hoist.

Make sure that there will be adequate headroom above the vehicle after it has been raised. Taller vehicles, especially those fitted with roof racks, may need more headroom than you think.

The hoist should be raised so you can comfortably work under it. Lock the lift in place before moving underneath or working on the vehicle.


1. Read instructionsRead the safety instructions that are provided with the hoist. They should be displayed near the lift operating controls. Check the hydraulic system for any leaks, and the steel cables for any sign of damage. Make sure there are no oil spills around or under the hoist.

2. Prepare the hoistThe hoist should be completely down before you attempt to drive the car on to it. The platform may have built in wheel restraints, or attachments for wheel alignment equipment. A set of bars is mounted at the front of each ramp to prevent the vehicle from being driven off the front of the hoist. At the back there will be ramps that allow the vehicle to be driven up and on to the hoist. These will lift up when the hoist is raised and prevent the vehicle from rolling off.

3. Position the vehicleDrive the vehicle slowly and carefully onto the hoist and position it centrally. If the vehicle has front wheel restraints, drive the vehicle forward until the wheels lock into the brackets. Get out of the vehicle and check that it’s correctly positioned on the platform. If it is, apply the emergency brake and select first gear or park.

4. Raise the vehicleMake sure the hoist area is clear. Move to the controls and lift the vehicle until it’s reached the appropriate work height.

5. Lock safety deviceMost 4 -post hoists will have an automatic locking mechanism. If the hoist has a manual safety mechanism you should lock it in place to engage whatever safety device is used.

6. Lower the vehicleBefore the hoist is lowered, remove all tools and equipment from the hoist area, and wipe up any spilled fluids. Remove the safety device or unlock the lift before lowering it. Make

sure that nobody is near the vehicle or the hoist. Once the hoist is fully lowered you can drive the vehicle off the hoist.

Using an engine hoist

Summary

Mobile floor cranes are capable of lifting very heavy objects, which make them suitable for lifting engines. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to use an engine hoist and choose the correct attachments to lift an engine.


Objective

Use an engine hoist and choose the correct attachments to lift an engine.

Personal safety














Safety check

The weight rating of the crane or hoist must be greater than the weight of the object to be lifted.

Never leave an unsupported engine hanging on a shop crane. Secure the engine on an engine stand, or on the ground, before starting to work on it.

If using engine stands, make sure they are designed to support the weight of the object you are lifting.

Always extend the legs of the engine hoist in relation to the lifting arm to ensure adequate stability.


Points to note

Mobile floor cranes are capable of lifting very heavy objects, which make them suitable for lifting engines.

The lifting arm is moved by a hydraulic cylinder and is adjustable for length. If the arm is lengthened, the lifting capacity of the arm is reduced. The weight limit is usually marked on the arm so that the arm or the hydraulic mechanism is not damaged by attempting to lift too heavy a load.

Make sure the lifting attachment at the end of the lifting arm is strong enough to lift the engine and is not damaged or cracked.

When attaching the lifting chain, or sling, to an engine make sure it is firmly attached and that the hoist is configured to lift that weight. Make sure that the fasteners attaching the lifting chain, or sling, have a tensile strength that is in excess of the weight of the engine.

Leave enough length in the sling so that when the engine is hanging, the angle at the top of the sling is close to 45 degrees and not exceeding 90 degrees.

If removing an engine from an engine bay, once it is lifted free and away from the vehicle, lower the engine so that it is close to the ground. If the engine is lifted high in the air, the hoist will be unstable.

When moving a suspended engine, move the hoist slowly. Do not change direction quickly because the engine will swing and may cause the whole apparatus to tumble.


1. Position the hoistMake sure the weight rating of the lifting crane is greater than the weight of the object

you’re lifting. In this case, you’ll be lifting and moving an engine. Lower the lifting arm and position the lifting end and chain over the center of the engine.

2. Inspect the lifting attachmentsInspect the chain, steel cable or sling and bolts to make sure they are in sound condition. They must be strong enough to support the weight of the engine. The sling should be long enough so when you lift the engine the angle at the top of the sling is about forty-five degrees.

3. Locate the lifting pointsLook carefully around the engine to determine if it has lifting “eyes” or other anchor points

4. Attach the hoist slingIf the engine has lifting eyes, attach the sling with “D” shackles or chain hooks. If you need to screw in bolts and spacer washers to lift the engine, make sure you use the correct bolt and spacer size for the chain or cable. Screw the bolts until the sling is held tight against the engine.

5. Attach the hoist hookAttach the hook of the hoist under the center of the sling and raise the hoist just enough to lift the engine an inch or two. Double-check the sling and attachment points for safety. The center of gravity of the engine should be directly under the hook of the hoist, and there should be no twists or kinks in the chain or sling.

6. Raise the engineRaise the hoist high enough so that the engine is clear of the ground and any obstacles. Slowly and gently move the hoist and engine to its new position.

7. Lower the engineLower the engine until it touches the ground. Making sure it is positioned correctly. You may need to place spacers under the engine to stabilize it. Once you are sure the engine is stable lower the hoist, remove the sling and any securing fasteners, then return the equipment to its storage area.

Using a floor jack







Summary

Hydraulic and pneumatic jacks are the most common. They can be mounted on slides or on a wheeled trolley.The size of jack you use will be determined by the weight of the vehicle you want to lift. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to lift and secure a vehicle with a floor jack and jack stands.


Objective

Lift and secure a vehicle with a floor jack and jack stands.

Personal safety








Safety check

Make sure the jack and stands you are using are suitable for the job.

Never lift a vehicle that is heavier than the jack's rated capacity.

Always use matched pairs of jack stands.

Never support a vehicle on anything other than jack stands.

Do not use wood or steel blocks to support the vehicle. They may slide or split under the weight of the vehicle.

Do not use bricks to support the vehicle. They will shatter under the weight of the vehicle.


Points to note

There are three types of workshop jacks: hydraulic, pneumatic and mechanical.

Hydraulic and pneumatic jacks are the most common. They can be mounted on slides or on a wheeled trolley.

The size of jack you use will be determined by the weight of the vehicle you want to lift. Most workshops will have a jack that has a lifting capacity of about 2 ½ tons/tonnes. If the vehicle is heavier than that, or if the vehicle is loaded, you will need to use a jack with a larger lifting capacity.

Always check the vehicle service manual or owner's manual to determine the best position to support a vehicle. Some vehicles require special attachments to be fitted before they can be lifted.

Do not jack or support a vehicle under any independent suspension components. They are not strong enough to support the weight of the vehicle.

Make sure the vehicle is positioned on a firm level surface.

Make sure the jack stands are in good condition before you use them to support the vehicle. If they are cracked or bent, they will not support the vehicle safely.


1. Position the vehiclePosition the vehicle on a flat, solid surface. Put the vehicle into first gear or park and set the emergency brake. Then place blocks in front of and behind the wheels that aren’t going to be raised off the ground.

2. Inspect the floor jackBefore you try to use the jack, check for leaks in the hydraulic system. Check the pad, or saddle, and the wheels of the jack. They should rotate freely and show no signs of damage. Check the manufacturers’ label on the jack. The specifications will tell you the maximum load weight it will bear, so it must suit the vehicle you want to raise.

3. Check the vehicle handbookRefer to the owner’s manual to find out where you can safely place the jack. This is usually a major point on the chassis, a cross member or axle unit.

4. Select the jack safety standsBefore operating the jack, select two safety stands of the same type, suitable for the weight of the vehicle. Check the stands for any cracks, and if necessary lubricate the threaded adjusting post with a few drops of engine oil. Place one stand on each side of the vehicle at the same point. Adjust them so that they are both the same height, and high enough to slip under the vehicle once you’ve raised it.

5. Position the jackRoll the jack under the vehicle, and make sure the pad, or saddle, is positioned correctly under the frame or cross member. Turn the valve on the top of the jack handle clockwise, and begin pumping the handle up and down until the jack pad touches and begins to lift the vehicle.

6. Check position of jackOnce the wheels lift off the floor, stop and check the placement of the jack pad under the vehicle to make sure there’s no danger of slipping. Double check the position of the wheel blocks to make sure they haven’t moved. If the vehicle is stable, continue lifting it until it’s at the height where you can safely work under it.

7. Position the safety standsSlide the two jack safety stands underneath the vehicle. Make sure they’re positioned at a point that can support the weight. Both stands should be adjusted to the same height and placed as far apart as practical.

8. Lower the vehicle onto the standsTurn the valve on the jack handle counter-clockwise and gently lower the vehicle onto the stands. When the vehicle has settled onto the stands, lower the jack completely and remove it from under the vehicle. Repeat this process to lift the other end of the vehicle. Be aware that the vehicle is now supported on jack stands and will not be as stable as it would if the wheels were on the ground. When you’ve finished working under the vehicle, make sure you’ve removed all tools and equipment before you attempt to lower it.

9. Raise the vehicle off the standsUse the jack to raise the vehicle off the safety stands. Slide out the safety stands from under the vehicle.

10. Lower the vehicleTurn the valve on the jack handle counter-clockwise very gently to lower the vehicle to the

ground. Do not allow the vehicle to drop quickly or you may cause serious damage. Return the floor jack, the safety stands and the wheel wedges to their storage area before you continue working on the vehicle.

Setting up an oxyacetylene torch

Summary

An oxyacetylene torch can produce a large amount of heat. Be aware that any objects you direct the flame towards will become hot. Always light the oxyacetylene torch with the striker. A cigarette lighter or match would put your hand too close to the igniting tip. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to set up an oxyacetylene torch for heating.


Objective

Set up an oxyacetylene torch for heating.

Personal safety














Safety check

Oxygen and acetylene cylinders must be securely stored in an upright position.

An oxyacetylene torch can produce a large amount of heat. Be aware that any objects you direct the flame towards will become hot.

Always have a suitable fire extinguisher near your work area.

Do not use an oxyacetylene torch near any flammable materials.


Points to note

If a cylinder falls over and breaks the main valve off, the cylinder will become a missile and cause extreme damage.

Wear a leather apron or similar protective clothing and welding gloves when using an oxyacetylene torch. T-shirts, nylon and polyester blend clothing will not provide enough protection. Ultraviolet light and sparks of hot metal will pass through them.

Always use proper welding goggles. Do not use sunglasses because they do not filter the extreme ultraviolet light as effectively. The plastic used in sunglass lenses will not protect your eyes from sparks.

Never point the lighted flame toward another person or any flammable material.

Always light the oxyacetylene torch with the striker. A cigarette lighter or match would put your hand too close to the igniting tip.

Wherever possible, use a heat shield behind the component you are heating. This will prevent nearby objects from becoming hot.

After heating a piece of metal, label it as "HOT" with a piece of chalk so that others will not attempt to pick it up.




1. Check equipmentFirst, make sure that the gas flow from both the oxygen and the acetylene cylinders is turned off tightly. The two cylinders are secured in an upright position. This is usually on a wheeled trolley. Look at the hose pressure and cylinder pressure gauges on top of each cylinder. Both gauges on each cylinder should read zero. If both gauges do not read zero, turn the main cylinder valve on the top of the cylinder clockwise, to close it completely. Then you must purge the system of any gas.

2. Purge the systemTo purge the system, make sure the main cylinder valve is closed tightly. Pick up the torch handle and note that it has two hoses attached. One hose supplies acetylene, the other oxygen. Turn the oxygen regulator under the gauges clockwise, and open the oxygen valve on the handle. This will purge any gas that may still be in the system and the gauges should both drop back to zero. Repeat this procedure with the acetylene cylinder.

3. Install the torch handleThe torch handle is the connection between the hoses and the working tips. It consists of a body and two taps. It’s used for both welding and heating. Different attachments are connected to the handle to enable welding, heating or cutting. Examine the connections. One connection is marked ”OX”, and is for the oxygen hose. The other is marked “AC”, and is for the acetylene hose.

4. Connect the hosesAs a further safety precaution, you’ll find the oxygen connector is right hand thread and the acetylene connector is a left hand thread.

5. Install the correct tipWelding tips come in sizes that are stamped with a number. Number one is the smallest tip.

The larger the number, the larger the tip and the greater the heat that it will provide. Select the tip size suitable for the heating task and screw it onto the end of the torch handle. Hold the torch handle in your hand, so that you can comfortably adjust the oxygen and acetylene taps. Position the tip so that it faces away from you. Gently tighten the tip-securing fitting.

6. Adjust the pressure of the gas flowYou are now ready to adjust the gas pressure for heating. Look at the two valves on the torch handle. The valve next to the oxygen hose controls the flow of oxygen to the tip. Close it tightly clockwise. The valve next to the acetylene hose controls the flow of acetylene to the tip. Also, close it tightly clockwise.

7. Turn on the gasesNow that you’re ready to use the torch, turn the main valve on the top of each cylinder counter-clockwise half a turn to open the valve. The needle on the cylinder pressure gauge will rise to show you the pressure in the cylinder. Turn the oxygen regulator handle clockwise until the needle in the gauge registers 10 PSI. Turn the acetylene regulator handle clockwise until the needle in the gauge registers 5 PSI. This is your working pressure for heating.

8. Check the areaBefore you light the torch, check the area you’re working in to make sure there are no flammable materials or fluids nearby. Workmates should also be clear of the area. The welding flame is not only extremely hot; it also produces dangerous ultra violet rays, which will damage your eyes. It is absolutely vital that you are wearing the right safety gear: gloves and tinted goggles or face mask. So put them on and adjust them comfortably.

9. Ignite the torchNow you are ready to ignite the torch with the striker. The tip of the torch must be pointing downwards away from your body and away from the gas cylinders. Turn the acetylene valve on the torch handle slightly towards the ‘ON’ position. You should hear the gas hissing. Hold the striker against the tip of the torch with the lighter cup between the torch and you. Flick the striker to create the spark that will ignite the gas at the tip of the torch. Open the acetylene valve slowly until the sooty smoke produced by the torch disappears. Then slowly open the oxygen valve on the torch handle.

10. Adjust the flameAs you open the oxygen valve, you will see the color of the flame change. The pure acetylene flame is yellow, and it will change to blue as you add the oxygen. Continue to open the oxygen valve until you can observe a small, sharp blue cone in the center of the torch flame. This is the “neutral” flame you need for general heating.





Using an oxyacetylene torch

Summary

The objective of this procedure is to show you how to use an oxyacetylene torch for heating. Wear a leather apron or similar protective clothing and welding gloves when using an oxyacetylene torch and always use proper welding goggles.


Objective

Use an oxyacetylene torch for heating.

Personal safety










Safety check






Points to note









1. Light the torch and adjust neutral flameLight the torch and adjust the gas flow so that you have a neutral flame.

2. Heat for 'Removal'Place a flywheel and ring gear assembly on a set of insulating spacers, to elevate it from the working surface. Direct the flame onto the ring gear and apply the heat until smoke starts to appear. Stop applying the heat. At this stage, the ring gear is hot enough to remove by gently tapping with a hammer and drift. DO NOT TOUCH the metal with your hands. Use welding Gloves and tools that are designed for use in a hot environment.

3. Heat to 'Red Hot'Direct the flame to the component you wish to heat. If the component is made from thin metal it will heat quicker than one that is thicker. Apply the heat evenly, until you notice the object begin to glow red. Once the glow is uniform, the metal will now be hot enough to manipulate. Once again DO NOT TOUCH the metal with your hands. Use welding gloves and tools that are designed for use in a hot environment.

4. Shut downWhen you have finished the job, you will need to shut down the equipment. Turn off the acetylene valve on the torch handle. This will extinguish the flame. Turn off the oxygen valve on the torch handle. Next, remove your safety goggles or mask and your welding gloves. Turn the main cylinder valve clockwise on the top of both gas cylinders. Now open the two valves on the torch handle to “bleed” the system. Turn both the oxygen and acetylene regulator handles counter-clockwise until they are loose. Close both valves on the torch handle. Put the handle and tips away, and return the gas cylinders and their hoses to their proper storage area.

Using an oxyacetylene torch

Summary

The objective of this procedure is to show you how to use an oxyacetylene torch for heating. Wear a leather apron or similar protective clothing and welding gloves when using an oxyacetylene torch and always use proper welding goggles.








Objective

Use an oxyacetylene torch for heating.

Personal safety








Safety check






Points to note









1. Light the torch and adjust neutral flameLight the torch and adjust the gas flow so that you have a neutral flame.

2. Heat for 'Removal'Place a flywheel and ring gear assembly on a set of insulating spacers, to elevate it from the working surface. Direct the flame onto the ring gear and apply the heat until smoke starts to appear. Stop applying the heat. At this stage, the ring gear is hot enough to remove by gently tapping with a hammer and drift. DO NOT TOUCH the metal with your hands. Use welding Gloves and tools that are designed for use in a hot environment.

3. Heat to 'Red Hot'Direct the flame to the component you wish to heat. If the component is made from thin metal it will heat quicker than one that is thicker. Apply the heat evenly, until you notice the object begin to glow red. Once the glow is uniform, the metal will now be hot enough to manipulate. Once again DO NOT TOUCH the metal with your hands. Use welding gloves and tools that are designed for use in a hot environment.

4. Shut downWhen you have finished the job, you will need to shut down the equipment. Turn off the acetylene valve on the torch handle. This will extinguish the flame. Turn off the oxygen valve on the torch handle. Next, remove your safety goggles or mask and your welding gloves. Turn the main cylinder valve clockwise on the top of both gas cylinders. Now open the two valves on the torch handle to “bleed” the system. Turn both the oxygen and acetylene regulator handles counter-clockwise until they are loose. Close both valves on the torch handle. Put the handle and tips away, and return the gas cylinders and their hoses to their proper storage area.

5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

11. Decoding a VIN

12.

13.

14.

15. Summary16. Every vehicle carries a unique Vehicle Identification Number, which encodes essential information about it, such as what kind of vehicle it is,

who manufactured it, where, and when17. There are two different, but essentially compatible 17-digit Vehicle Identification Number standards. The North American VIN system, and

International Standard ISO 3779, which is used in most of the rest of the world.18. These tables show how the numbers are structured:

19. North America

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

Manufacturer Identifier

Vehicle Attributes

Check Digit

Model Year

Plant Code

Sequential Number

20. ISO 3779

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

WMIWorld Manufacturer Identifier

VDSVehicle Descriptor System

VISVehicle Identifier System

21.Here is how an example of a North American VIN would be decoded:







22.

23. First digit (country of origin)

24. This number or letter tells you where the vehicle was manufactured. For instance, a '1' means that the vehicle was made in the United States, a '2' is for Canada, a 'J' means Japan and so on.

25. 26.

27. Second digit (manufacturer)

28. This digit is usually a letter, and will tell you the name of the Manufacturer; in this case the vehicle was made by General Motors.29. 30.

31. Third digit (division)

32. This digit will tell you the Division that made the car. It could be a Pontiac, an Oldsmobile or a GMC truck. Here it is Chevrolet.33. 34.

35. Fourth & fifth digits (model and series)

36. These two digits will give you the model, or series, of the vehicle. You'll need a decoding chart for the details; here we have a standard Corvette.37. 38.

39. Sixth digit (body type)

40. This digit describes the body type: 2-door, 4-door, coupe, sedan and so on.

41. 42.

43. Seventh digit (seat belt system)

44. This digit tells you the type of seat restraints fitted to the vehicle. In this case it is Manual belts.45. 46.

47. Eighth digit (engine code)

48. This digit is the Engine code, which will let you find details of the engine type, size, or displacement, and where the engine was made.49. 50.

51. Ninth digit (check digit)

52. This is the Check digit. It is used internally by the manufacturer.53. 54.

55. Tenth digit (year of manufacture)

56. This letter will tell you the Year of Manufacture. You can decode the digit according to a chart, which in this example shows us that the vehicle was assembled in 1984.

57. 58.

59. Eleventh digit (factory code)

60. This digit tells you the Assembly Plant or Factory where the vehicle was put together. In this case it is Bowling Green Kentucky.61. 62.

63. Last six digits (plant sequential number)

64. The final six numbers make up the sequential number of the vehicle as it comes off the assembly line plus one hundred thousand (100000). So the first vehicle to be produced will have the number 100001. In our example, the vehicle was the thirty-eight thousand two hundred and twenty-seventh to come off the assembly line in that year.

65.

Obtaining & interpreting scan tool data

Summary

The objective of this procedure is to show you how to retrieve, record and clear stored OBD I & II diagnostic trouble codes using a scan tool. Remember, when retrieving codes for an OBD I vehicle, clear the codes then start the vehicle and recheck for any codes that reset. When diagnosing and OBD II vehicle, do not clear the codes until the vehicle is repaired.


Objective

Retrieve, record and clear stored OBD I & II diagnostic trouble codes using a scan tool.







Personal safety








Safety check

If the the vehicle is to be run inside the workshop use exhaust extraction hoses.

Output solenoids can be energized from the scan tool, activating components without warning. It is imperative that the operator should follow the service manual procedures.


Points to note

Make sure that you follow service manual procedures for the vehicle you are working on.

The standard procedure for retrieving codes for an OBD I vehicle, is to access the codes, write them down, clear the codes, start the vehicle and recheck for any codes that reset.

The standard procedure for diagnosing an OBD II vehicle is different as it requires that the codes should NOT be cleared until the vehicle is repaired. Clearing the codes also clears all of the freeze frame data in the system that is useful for the diagnosis process.

It may take several 'trips' for the code to reset, so with OBDII you must complete the diagnosis process first before clearing the codes.

Always check for any applicable service bulletins when diagnosing computer related problems, as they can provide valuable information about new faults that emerge on vehicles as their operational characteristics change as the vehicles get older.


1. Connect the scan toolLocate the scan tool access point and connect the scan tool using the appropriate connector for the vehicle. Turn on the vehicle ignition. Turn on the scan tool. Run the scan tool diagnostic program and navigate through each of the different systems in turn to access the diagnostic trouble codes from the vehicles electronic control module. Note your findings for each vehicle system.

2. Check your findingsLook up what each code means and present the information to your supervisor. Any fault indicated by the diagnostic trouble codes will need to be corrected before you clear the codes.

3. Clear fault codesTo clear the fault codes from the vehicle, select the delete codes option on the scan tool. Check that the codes have cleared, and turn off the vehicle ignition.

4. Recheck for fault codesTurn on the vehicle ignition. Run the scan tool diagnostic program and navigate through each system again to check the codes do not reactivate. If the fault codes reactivate, take your findings to your supervisor. Turn off the vehicle ignition. Turn off the scan tool and disconnect from the access point.






Using a repair manual

Summary

Repair manuals are produced by a second party publisher and provide information similar to a shop manual. However, the information contained in the repair manual will not be as specific as that contained in a shop manual. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to locate specifications and the correct procedure in a repair manual.


Objective

Locate specifications and the correct procedure in a repair manual.

Personal safety









Safety check


Points to note

Repair manuals are produced by a second party publisher and provide information similar to a shop manual. However, the information contained in the repair manual will not be as specific as that contained in a shop manual.

Repair manuals are designed so that the workshops that do not have access to shop manuals have a reference source for service and repair information and specifications.


1. Understand information requiredDecide what information it is that you need to know about the job and about the vehicle. In this example the job is to replace the front brake disc pads. Make sure you know the make, model and year of manufacture of the vehicle.

2. Locate the appropriate manualIn this case, the workshop does not have the shop manual for this type of vehicle, but it is likely that the information needed can be found in an aftermarket manual. Find the appropriate After Market Manual for the make, model and year of the vehicle you are working on.

3. Locate the correct sectionAt the front of the Manual you will find an Introduction and a Table of Contents or a Section breakdown listing the various systems and components of the vehicle. Find the chapter on Brakes and turn to that page.

4. Locate the specificationsThis page gives you a further index of contents, for the chapter. It also gives you the manufacturer’s specifications for the various components of the braking system, in this case we are interested in the front disc brakes. It also has a guide to the torque wrench settings. Have these details handy when you are performing the procedure.

5. Locate the service proceduresFind the section relating to the Front Disc Brakes, and turn to that page. The Manual shows

the procedure for replacing the front disc pads. The photographs and diagrams will help you identify the parts of the assembly and the steps to follow.

6. Use the index as alternativeAnother way of finding the information you need is to use the Index at the back of the manual. Look under ‘B’ to find “Brakes” and you’ll see page references for Specifications, and, Front Disc. We are now ready to begin replacing the front disc pads.

Using a shop manual

Summary

The information found in shop manuals provides a systematic procedure, identifies special tools and specifications relevant to the task. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to use a shop manual to identify the correct service procedure.


Objective

Use a shop manual to identify the correct service procedure.







Personal safety








Safety check


Points to note

Shop manuals are developed by manufacturers to provide the service technician with correct information on performing all service and repair tasks on the vehicles they produce.

The information found in shop manuals provides a systematic procedure, identifies special tools and specifications relevant to the task.

Shop manuals are organized according to vehicle systems and have indexes for quick reference needs.


1. Understand information requiredDecide what information it is that you need to know. About the job and about the vehicle. In this example, the job is to adjust, and possibly replace, the breaker points in the distributor. Make sure you know the make, model and year of manufacture of the vehicle, and the type and size of the engine. In order to adjust and replace the breaker points you need to know the procedure and specifications.

2. Locate the appropriate manualFind the appropriate Shop Manual for the make, model and year of the vehicle you are working on.

3. Locate the correct sectionThe first page of the Shop Manual gives you the Group Index, or Section Breakdown. All you want from this page is the Group or Section Number. In this case it is the “Ignition System Group 9”.Turn to “Group 9, the Ignition System.”We see that it’s in three parts: “General Ignition Service”, “Autolite Dual Advance Distributors”, and “Specifications”. Scan through the General Ignition Section and, we find “Common Adjustments and Repairs.”

4. Locate the service proceduresHere we find the procedures to help you remove and replace the distributor. The text and the pictures shows how to replace and install the breaker points, as well as procedures to adjust breaker point alignment, point gap, and spring tension. It shows you the tools to use, and how to use them.

5. Locate the specificationsWhile this part of the Manual will give you the procedures, it does NOT give you the precise specifications for a particular vehicle or adjustment. For this information, we need to check the Specifications part of this section. There are several pages of Specifications for the Distributor but not the point gap specification. However by returning to the Head of this Section, we’ll find “Engine Tune-up Specifications”. Which refers us to another part of the manual for the point gap specification. Turn to the Engine Tune-Up Specifications page, and find the table on the distributor point gap. At this point we need to know the engine-type of the vehicle to find the correct specification. We are now ready to begin adjusting and possibly replacing the breaker points.





Using an owner's manual

Summary

The vehicle manufacturer supplies owner's manuals to the vehicle's first or original owners. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to use an owner's manual to make sure that the correct lubricant specifications are used when servicing the vehicle.


Objective

Use an owner's manual to make sure that the correct lubricant specifications are used when servicing the vehicle.

Personal safety










Safety check


Points to note

The vehicle manufacturer supplies owner's manuals to the vehicle's first or original owners.

The information contained in an owner's manual provides the owner with information on:

o All features of that particular vehicle

o How to operate all vehicle controls and accessories

o How to use vehicle security PIN codes

o Warranty and service information

o Basic vehicle specifications

o Fuel, lubricant and coolant capacities

o Tire changing, jacking and towing information

o List of service outlets

The layout and amount of detail in an owner's manual will vary according to the manufacturer and age of the vehicle. The procedure to use the manual, however, will be common to all manuals.


1. Understand information requiredDecide what information it is that you need to know. About the job and about the vehicle. In this example, the job is to change the engine oil in this vehicle. Make sure you know the make, model and year of manufacture of the vehicle, and the type and size of the engine. In order to change the oil you need to know the engine oil specifications. How much oil to put in, and what grade of oil.

2. Locate the appropriate manualThis kind of information is most readily found in the vehicle ‘s owner’s manual. Find the owner’s Manual – this is usually kept in the glove compartment. Open the Owner’s Manual to the first page which usually has a Table of Contents, or a section breakdown to help you quickly find the information you need. In this case it’s an older model car, and the Index is in the front of the manual.

3. Locate the correct sectionFrom the list of Chapters, or Sections, choose the section, which deals with the engine oil. Here it’s titled “Motor Oil”. Follow the directions to the correct page, and turn to that page.

4. Locate the specificationsIn this case the page is headed “Fuel, Oil and Coolant Recommendations”. Identify from this page the correct grade of motor oil for this vehicle. The Manual refers you to another Page for the fuel and lubricant capacities – so turn to that page. The Chart tells you all of the vehicle’s lubricant specifications. Find the correct specifications for the engine crankcase oil, and make a note of these. Flip back one page to find the Refill Capacities. The eight-cylinder engine requires five quarts or 4.8 liters of oil. A more recent Owner’s Manual will have a table of Contents or a section breakdown in the front with a Section or Chapter on Specifications.

5. Use the index as alternativeAnother way of using a more recent Owner’s Manual is to refer to the Index at the back of the book. Look under ‘E’ for Engine, and find Engine Oil, or Look under ‘L’ for Lubricants or ‘O’ for Oil. All of them should refer you to the same place. We are now ready to begin servicing the vehicle.

Using a labor guide

Summary







The labor guide measures time as an average between the time taken by a novice and the time taken by an experienced technician who has performed the task many times. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to understand and use a labor guide to calculate time and cost for a service procedure.


Objective

Understand and use a labor guide to calculate time and cost for a service procedure.

Personal safety








Safety check


Points to note

Labor guides are used by workshops as a guide to the amount of time a set task should take to perform.

The labor guide measures time as an average between the time taken by a novice and the time taken by an experienced technician who has performed the task many times.

A workshop can determine a fair charge for any given service task by using a labor guide.

The information contained within a labor guide is referenced in the same manner as a service manual or repair manual.


1. Understand information requiredDecide what information it is that you need to know. About the job and about the vehicle. In this example, the job is to replace the front brake disc pads. Make sure you know the make, model and year of manufacture of the vehicle.

2. Locate the appropriate labor guideWe need to be able to estimate the cost or charge for the labor to complete the job. To do this we use a Labor Guide

3. Understand the structure of the guideTurn to the Contents Page. This Guide is divided up into cars, four wheel drive, and light commercial vehicles. Then by Vehicle Systems and Operations. This Operations breakdown also serves to define the sub tasks involved in each operation. Vehicle Manufacturers, Models, and Engine Type then appear as columns in the body of the manual. It also has indexes to operation numbers, indexes to vehicle makes and models, and introductory notes on: guidelines for using the manual, the meaning of terms and calculating labor charges. Other Labor Guide publishers may have different layouts and information, such as skill levels required for the operations described. They may also cover heavier duty commercial vehicles

4. Locate the correct sectionFind the section for the appropriate manufacturer and model, using the indexes to vehicle makes and models.

5. Locate the informationTurn to this section, and find the page on Disc Brakes, then find the subsection on replacing or renewing the front disc brake pads. This tells you the length of time for the operation on one wheel, so you must double it for servicing the brakes on both front wheels. Find the correct column for the vehicle model and engine type, and note the length of time to complete this operation. The length of time is usually in hours and tenths of an hour. So 0.6 hours represents 36 minutes.

6. Check for additional informationNote that the guide indicates to add the time for bleeding the brake system if needed. So find the time for bleeding the brake system in case you need to add it to your calculation.

7. Calculate the time and costWe now have the correct figure to estimate the charge for the service.

Using a parts program

Summary

There is a range of computer-based parts programs on the market, the layout may vary, but they will contain similar information. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to use a computer or CD-ROM to locate parts information.


Objective

Use a computer or CD-ROM to locate parts information.







Personal safety








Safety check


Points to note

Manufacturers may produce a CD-ROM that lists their parts and how to order them.

Many workshops either have some parts in stock or use a local parts house.

Some parts houses supply their own computer to look up parts and print an invoice at their desk.


1. Start the systemThere is a range of computer-based parts programs on the market, the layout may vary, but they will contain similar information. First, you should understand how to operate the computer. In the PC world, starting-up is often known as “booting” the computer, which means, “Turn the computer on and log in, if you are required to”. This step will depend on the type of PC that you are using and whether it is ”stand alone”, on a local network or needs to be connected to the internet to operate the software. The way that you do this depends on your work situation, so it’s a good idea to get a fellow worker to show you how to log on in your particular workplace environment.

2. Understand the software applicationRead the information on the software package, or if you’re on the internet the information about the software application or website. Most of the programs have “Help” sections, which provide details of how to access the various components within the software itself. The details on the package will also tell you how to install or access the data. Once you have become familiar with the operating functions of the software you are ready to start accessing data

3. Access the parts software applicationWe need to find the correct front brake pads for a particular vehicle, and, we want to obtain the pad’s part number so that they can be ordered. Start by ensuring that the software package you are going to use is correctly loaded onto the PC. Use the Computer to call up the Spare Parts database.

4. Provide input informationOnce the Spare Parts screen appears, it will prompt you to enter the specific data that you are seeking. In this instance, select ‘Genuine Parts’. And then the correct vehicle make and year of manufacture.This leads us to a page with a list of categories. Select ‘Brakes’.

5. Narrow the searchThis leads us to a page with a list of vehicle models. Select the correct vehicle model. This leads us to a page with a list of brake parts for the model we selected. The list is sorted by year of manufacture and has columns for part number, part description and price. Choose the appropriate part. Find brake pads, front and note the part number. Select this item.

6. Access the required parts dataThis page shows an image of the Pads, with part number, name, description and price, and also indicates which models the pads fit. The brake pads can now be ordered through the shop’s parts supplier using the part number found. Or you have the possibility of ordering the pads directly from the website.

7. Prepare the parts orderIf you choose to buy on-line, you will need to fill-in the form and confirm your order. If this option was not available to you, you could still fill-in the on-line purchase form. Then select print and fax it to the supplier after your supervisor has authorized this purchase. It is good

practice to print out this order form and attach it to the repair order for the vehicle’s service records.

Using a service information program

Summary

Computer databases provide information on procedures, parts and service problems. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to learn the basics of a workshop computer system.


Objective

Learn the basics of a workshop computer system.

Personal safety














Safety check


Points to note

Not all service departments have or use a computerized system. If your service department does not have a computer, you'll have to use printed reference materials.

Computer databases provide information on procedures, parts and service problems. Find out what databases your workplace has on file and how to access them.

Computers have the ability to easily access updated information using the Internet, an intranet or CD-ROMs.

Many computerized manuals contain helpful tips on how to access data quickly.

Most vehicle manufacturers have a service or technical web page. If you work in an automotive dealership, or your company subscribes to a dealer network information system, you may be able to find the information you are looking for through the dealer's intranet.


Choose the correct applicationIn order to be able to provide accurate information, the software application used must contain the appropriate data. There is a range of automotive data-base software applications on the market, the layout may vary, but they all contain similar information, though some are more detailed than others. Alternatively, if you work at a dealership or your shop subscribes to a dealer network information system, you may use that process. First, you should understand how to operate the computer.

1. Start the systemIn the PC world, starting up is often known as “booting” the computer, which means, “Turn the computer on and log in, if you are required to”. This step will depend on the type of PC you are using and whether it is “stand alone”, on a local network, or needs to be connected to the Internet to operate the software. The way that you do this depends on your work situation, so it’s a good idea to get a fellow worker to show you how to log on in your particular workplace environment

2. Understand the software applicationRead the information on the software package. If you’re on the internet, read the information about the software application or website. Most of the applications have “Help” sections, which provide details of how to access the various components within the software itself. The details on the package will also tell you how to install or access the data. Once you have become familiar with the operating functions of the software you are ready to start accessing data. You have a vehicle in for service, and you’ve found a problem with the brake pads. You want to obtain any updated service information that can solve the problem.

3. Access the software applicationStart by ensuring that the software package you are going to use is correctly loaded onto the PC. Use the Computer to see if there is a Technical Bulletin posted for this problem.

4. Provide input informationTo enable the computer to search for the correct data, you may have to input vehicle information such as the VIN Number or at least the make model and year of manufacture. The application will usually ask you to confirm your input data. Here we have selected a “1985 Chevrolet Corvette”. If correct, we can now select more specific information.

5. Narrow the searchNow you can perform a search on a specific section of the vehicle using a keyword. The program will normally then provide a list of results from which you can select a particular item. If the software has the capability, you may want to see if there is a manufacturer’s Recall Notice on the vehicle or any of its components.

6. Access specific dataFinally, specific data for this item is displayed. In this case it tells us that there has been a part modification on the brake pads and that replacements are available with the part number provided. Once you have located the data you need, you can usually print it out. This is very useful to keep on a clipboard for reference when working on the vehicle.

Date post:	10-Dec-2015
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