E journal nov dec 2012

INDIA OFFICE

Lenzing AG - India

1st Floor, Rajnarayan Towers

70, Race Course

Coimbatore - 641018 Tamilnadu. India

Phone : +91(0) 422 4292800

Fax : +91(0) 422 4292814

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November - December 2012 215

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1. IntroductionWarmth, handle, natural texture, and appearance aredesirable properties of textile yarns. Texturising pro-cess improves these desirable properties of continuousfilament yarns. Texturing can be described as a tech-nique in which closely packed parallel arrangement ofthe continuous synthetic filaments are changed intomore voluminous structures. Air jet texturing is themost versatile of all known texturing methods that areused to convert filaments yarns to textured yarns. Air-jet textured yarns more closely resemble convention-ally spun yarns in that the yarn surface is covered withfixed resilient loops, and these serve the same purposeas the protruding hairs in spun yarns by forming aninsulating layer of entrapped air between neighbouringfilaments [1].

Bulk is an important characteristic of air-jet texturedyarns and the structure of yarn comprises of a com-pact core with entangled filaments and surface withprotruding filaments in the form of loops. A great dealof interest is shown in investing various properties ofair textured yarns [2]. The stability of air texturedyarn is solely dependent on the characteristics of coreand influences the retention of surface loops. If theloops are not stable in fabric forming process, yarn

Characterisation of Air-Jet Textured YarnsM. Y. Gudiyawar* and Pooja D. Anade

Department of Textiles,D.K.T.E.S Textile & Engineering Institute

Abstract Air-jet textured yarns are widely used for furnishing fabrics and apparel applications. The characteristicsof air-jet textured yarns are stated with special reference to loop stability, yarn bulk, and loop configuration.Researchers have developed various methods for the evaluation of these characteristics. The test methodsused in industries and various researches to determine loop instability, yarn bulk of air-jet textured yarnsare critically reviewed in this article. This review confirms that there is no consensus on a standard methodfor the measurement of these characteristics and the industries are required to adopt a method based onthe end user requirements.

KeywordsAir-jet textured yarn, Instability, Loop configuration, Physical bulk.

*All correspondence should be addressed to,

M. Y. GudiyawarDepartment of TextilesD.K.T.E.S Textile & Engineering Institute,Ichalkaranji - 416 115.E-mail - [email protected]

bulk and surface loops can be reduced under workingtension leading to reduced fabric bulk and higher fabricirregularity. Higher loops instability of air-jet texturedyarns also affects surface and other low stress me-chanical properties of fabrics [1]. Therefore, knowl-edge of characterisation of air jet textured yarns isimportant before processing them into fabrics. Properassessment of loop stability, yarn bulk and its control isimportant from the point of view of handle, appearanceand comfort characteristics of fabrics made from air-textured yarns. This article presents a critical reviewof various test methods used to assess the loop stabil-ity, yarn bulk and loop configuration of air-jet texturedyarns.

2. Loop StabilityLoop stability refers to the behaviour of the air tex-tured yarn under applied load. In other words loopstability refers to the retention of loops under the ap-plication of load such as those encountered in process-ing the yarns into fabric. There are several approachesdeveloped for the measurement of loop stability of air-jet textured yarn. One is based on the permanent elon-gation of yarn after removing a specific load appliedfor a constant time, while second is the measure ofyarn extension due to the application of load. The secondapproach is based on the principle of the repeatedloading. There are no commonly agreed test proce-dures or standardization of testing parameters for themeasurement of loop stability [3].

The loop stability of air textured yarns is based on the

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principle of permanent extension. A basic load W1 ofapproximately 0.01 gf/den is hung at the end of theyarn held at the top in a clamp and left on the speci-men throughout the test. One metre section on thistensioned specimen is marked. The specimen is thensubjected to a higher load W2 of 0.33gf/den for 30seconds. The permanent elongation in the length ofspecimen is measured 30 seconds after the load W2has been removed, by using one metre mark as refer-ence. This permanent elongation is referred as loopinstability. This percentage elongation is taken as thedirect measure of the loop stability. Du Pont has sug-gested that for a satisfactory textured yarn, the insta-bility value should be less than 5%.

Figure 1: DuPont's stability test method

The Company of Switzerland uses a hank of air-jettextured yarn instead of a single yarn specimen on awrap reel of 1 meter circumference; the yarn iswrapped to form a hank of 2500dtex.

No. of wraps = 2500/nd

Where n is number of legs (=2) and d is the dtex ofthe yarn under the test. The recommended basic load(W1) and higher load (W2) and time duration are0.01cN/dtex, 0.5 cN/dtex and 60 seconds respectively.The loop instability (I) is the extension (%) after 60seconds at the load of 0.5 cN/tex; whereas the loopinstability (II) is the permanent extension percentagemeasured 60 seconds after the removal of the higherload, as shown in Figure 2.

Figure 2: Heberlein's loop instability test method

Instability I (%) = [(b-a)/a]*100Instability II (%) = [(c-a)/a]*100

Instability-I measures the percentage elongation of theyarn under a specified load. Instability-II measures thepermanent elongation of the yarn, similar to Du Pontmethod [3,4].

The measurement of air-jet textured yarn extension ismore important in contrast to the measurement of per-manent elongation of the yarn. In this method, thetensile testing machine is set in such a way so as toextend the yarn until it reaches the required load, theaction being immediately reversed when the load isreached so that the conditions revert to zero loading.The permanent elongation of the textured yarn can bemeasured from this method. The advantage of usingthe tensile testing machine is that it is more accurate,faster and relatively easier to perform than the weighthanging methods [1]. From the load elongation curveof the constant rate of extension (Instron tensile tester),the percentage loop stability of the yarn was definedas the difference between the extension percentage ofthe textured yarn and the corresponding feeder yarn ata constant load of 0.33gf/den [5].

The load-elongation curves from a tensile testing ma-chine (Instron) were used for loop instability measure-ment of air-jet textured yarns. The basic load (W1) of0.01cN/dtex and a higher load (W2) of 0.5cN/dtexwere used and the percentage instability was mea-sured as the percentage elongation between the higherand basic load. It is also noted that, the elongation oftextured yarn under applied loads was taken as ameasure of instability rather than the difference ofelongation of the textured and supply yarns, becausethe extent of contribution of the extension of load bearingstraight and parallel filaments of the textured yarn tothe overall elongation is difficult to account for [6].A method based on repeated loading principle gives arealistic picture about the structural instability of air-jettextured yarns. The yarns and the fabrics made fromthem undergo repeated loading during processing. Thismethod consists of subjecting the air-jet textured yarnsto cyclic loading between 0.01 to 0.33 gf/den, till thearea under the curve becomes more or less constant.The percentage decay can be calculated as follows [7].

Percentage Decay = (Work done in first cycle - workdone in the last cycle)/ Work done in the first cycleX100.

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A quicker method was devised using a Strainometerfor the measurement of instability. In this method, afive percent constant strain is imposed on the yarn asit passes continuously over two rollers, and a thirdroller between these two acts as a sensor to measurethe tension in the yarns, which enables one to calculatethe loop instability [5]. Another way is to measure thethread tensile force in the stabilizing zone of thetexturising machine on a running yarn [8]. With con-stant draw ratio, the firmer the loops are tied into theyarn, the higher will be the resulting tensile force. Infact, the thread tensile force decreases the instabilityof the yarn shown by Du Pont's instability test in-creases [8]. The stabilizing tension is the measure ofthe stability of the textured yarn [9].

A method based on scanning the yarn in an opticalscanning device, which uses photodiode cells prior toand after the tensile stressing of the air jet texturedyarn. Through the study of loop size and configurationbefore and after tensile stressing, loop stability of theair jet textured yarn can be predicted [10].

An online loop stability measuring test instrument de-veloped at Loughborough University of Technology hasbeen reported [11]. In this method, a tension sensormeasures the tension in the yarn in between two rotat-ing rollers and records the tensile force during stretch-ing yarn. Depending on the requirement, degree ofstretch can be varied through changing speed of therollers. This test instrument comprises a micro-com-puter for continuous monitoring of yarn quality, hasbeen fitted to the texturing machine to provide onlinemeasurement. The parallel and core-effect structureshave greater stability than single-end textured struc-tures, the reason being the large number of filaments[12]. The stability of an air textured yarn shows up inthe visual appearance of the yarn. According to him, astable single yarn is more compact than an unstableyarn [13].

3. Physical BulkBulkiness, in a conventional sense, is the volume in agiven mass. Like loop stability, the bulkiness or bulk ofair textured yarns is also a key property. As differentend products like industrial, apparel and technical fab-rics demand different levels of yarn bulking; the properassessment of bulk has assumed greater significance.Many techniques have been reported regarding themeasurement of bulk of textured yarns; however thereis no standard technique for the measurement of bulk

of yarns so far. A method for measuring bulk of airtextured yarns, which compares the package densitiesbefore and after air texturing. In this method, length ofyarn weighing 85gms is wound onto a package beforetexturing and similar package of textured yarn is thenwound at the same tension. The ratio of the net weightof parent yarn to net weight of textured yarn expressedin percentage gives the physical bulk. Another varia-tion of this method is to calculate the ratio of thepackage densities of the parent yarn to the packagedensity of textured yarn which multiplied by 100, givesphysical bulk. [4]

Package density of parent yarn [g/cc]PhysicalBulk (%)

= × 100Package density of textured yarn [g/cc]

Where,Package density [g/cc]= [M

(b+y)- Mb]/[L (R2

(b+y)- R2b)]

M(b+y)

= total weight of bobbin and yarnM

b= weight of bobbin alone

L = length of yarn on packageR

b+y= the radius of bobbin with yarn

Rb = the radius of bobbin aloneA refined version has been reported which incorpo-rates a more accurate measurement of the variousdiameters.

Wp (Df2-Di2)bPhysical bulk (%) = × ×100

(Df2-Di2) p Wb

Where, W is the net weight of yarn wound on thepackage; Df is the outside diameter of the final pack-age; Di is the diameter of the empty package; and thesubscripts p and b indicate the parent and bulk yarnrespectively [14].It is reported to wind the parent and correspondingtextured yarns on a package for 20 minutes at a con-stant tension level of 3 gf on the winding unit of thetexturing machine operating at a linear speed of 300m/min. The package density was calculated using theformula [15].

Package Density (g/cm3) = [ Mc+y - Mc] / πL (Rc+y2 - Rc2)

Where, Mc+y = total weight of cheese and yarnMc = weight of the cheese aloneL = traverse length on the cheeseRc+y = overall radius of the cheese with yarn on it,andRc = radius of the cheese alone

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The characteristics of air-jet textured yarn and parentyarn are important for evaluation of physical bulk. Theparameters like winding time, package diameter andwinding tension affect the measured values of bulk.He suggested that while building packages either basedon the equal winding time and equal diameter, packagesize should be reasonably large so that parent andtextured yarn package densities do not change muchwith change in diameter or time corresponding to aparticular winding tension. It is therefore recommendedto wind parent and textured yarn packages of largerdiameter in the case of equal diameter winding.

In Electronic Inspection Board (EIB), yarn is scannedbetween the light source and the camera at the rate of2 scans/mm when operating at 100 m/min. The infor-mation from the camera is digitized and transmitted tothe computer. The yarn profile test mode produces animage of the yarn and also a graph showing the varia-tion in yarn diameter. The variation in yarn diameterdue to the presence of loops in the air-textured yarn isdetected. "Bulk-index" is developed by incorporatingloop frequency, size and total number of loops presentin the air-textured yarn [16].

The image analysis is used to evaluate the physicalbulk of yarn by using the projected image of yarn toobtain core and total projected area of air texturedyarn. The specific volume of the textured yarn wasderived from the projected area of air-textured yarnand its linear density. He used standard deviation ofthe textured yarn as a measure of physical irregularityof the yarn [17].

A measure of physical bulk of air textured yarn is theratio of the density of parent yarn fabric to the densityof textured yarn fabric (both fabrics woven of similarconstruction with parent and textured yarns as weft)multiplied by 100. The density of the fabric is given bythe ratio of weight per unit area (W) to the thickness(T) of the fabric [5].

Physical Bulk (%) = [Wp × Tt × 100] / [Tp × Wt]

Where, "p" refers parent yarn fabric and "t" referstextured yarn fabric.

The bulk of textured yarn was also evaluated throughmeasuring thickness of plain knitted fabric. As thethickness of fabrics largely depends on the bulkiness ofthe constituent threads, measurements of fabric thick-

ness for a given construction was used for the evalu-ation of bulk. However, the use of this method wasrestricted for comparison of air textured yarn of samefinal denier only. A water absorption test is suggestedfor the measurement of physical bulk of textured yarns.A constant length (400 yards) of yarn is allowed topass through a water bath at constant speed (40 yards/min) and a tension (0.1gf/den). The amount of waterabsorbed by the yarn is ascertained. The same methodis used for both the parent and textured yarns [18].

When water uptake method and package densitymethod are compared for assessing physical bulk oftextured yarn from filament of variable linear density,it was found that, the bulk measured by water absorp-tion method was comparable to those obtained by DuPont package density method. This work highlightedthat percentage increase in water uptake of texturedyarn is quite dependent on spin finish type and levelsand on the characteristics of core of the yarn [19]. Itis defined that a bulking factor is in relation to thespecific volume of the yarn. This, in turn depends ondiameter (d) and length (l) of sample.

Specific volume V= πd2l/4and

Bulk - factor (θ) = Vt/V

y

Where Vt is the specific volume of the textured yarn

and Vy is the specific volume of parent yarn. As ap-

plied tension affects the diameter considerably, stan-dard loading of 0.00536g/den is used [20]. However,it is commented on the method of measurement thatbulk is the latent property of the yarn, whose full sig-nificance becomes apparent only at the wet treatmentstage. The bulk and handle characteristics of the fabricwould be greatly influenced by the severity of the wettreatment [21].

4. Loop ConfigurationThe surface properties of the textured yarn, such asloop size and loop frequency are also important. Thebulk of air-textured yarn is a function of frequency andthe size of the loops protruding from the yarn core.These individual characteristics can be measured bymicroscopical and graphical techniques. The measure-ment of these properties involves the tedious work ofcounting the loops, assessing their sizes, and estimatingthe over-all and core diameters of the yarn [3]. Theoverall diameter and core diameter are defined in theFigure 3.Loop size = [Overall diameter - Core diameter] / 2

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Figure 3: Various dimensions of air-textured yarn

50 mm long specimens are mounted on a microscopeslide in a tensionless state and the yarn and core diam-eters are measured at sections of 0.6 mm wide. Forloop frequency, specimens are flattened between twomicroscopic slides to flatten the loops into one plane.After defining a section of 2.5 mm, the number ofloops are counted to determine the loop frequency.Microscopic method was used to find out yarn corediameter and overall diameter. The method was ex-tremely tedious and prone to many subjective errors[5]. This technique was improved by using a microprojector and the yarn is mounted by clamp and weight,and pulled it through to be imaged by using a movablestage and toggle device. A graphical recording devicewas devised for assessment of core diameter and overalldiameter. The overall diameter was recorded by mak-ing a mark on paper tape on the outermost limits of theloops on either side of the yarn from its magnifiedimage projected on to a screen. Similar method wasused for core diameter [22].

An opto-electronic instrument was used to assess theloop size and frequency, wherein the shadow of tex-tured yarn was projected on to a line of diodes and thecorresponding light impingement on the individual di-odes was evaluated electronically [8]. A microdensito-meter technique is a microscopic method where, forevery 2-meter interval along the textured yarn, a smallportion was cut, placed between two micro glass cov-ers and magnified 50 times on a projection microscope.A small section 0.8 mm long, equivalent to 4 cm on thescreen, was defined randomly [19]. The loops greaterthan or equal to 2 mm height on the screen and origi-nating from that 0.8 mm section were counted for loopfrequency length and height [16].

5. ConclusionAir-jet textured yarns resembles more closely to con-ventionally spun yarns and are characterised on loopstability, yarn bulk and loop configuration. On studyingthe different methods of characterisation of air-tex-tured yarn, unfortunately, it was found that there was

no consensus between them to have standard normsfor the benefit of industry.

References1. Demir A., Acar M., and Wray G. R., Textile Re-

search Journal, 56, (4), 191-202, (1986).2. Mukhopadhyay A., Kaushik R. C. D., and Kothari

V. K., Textile Asia, 23-25, (1999).3. Gandhi R. S., Man Made Textile Research Asso-

ciation, India, pp 90-94.4. Du Pont Technical Information Bull., X154, Oct.,

1961.5. Wray G. R., Journal of Textile Institute, 60, (1),

102 -126, (1969).6. Acar M., Alexander A. J., Turton R. K. and Wray

G. R., "Texturising Today" Shirley Institute Pub-lications, S-46, pg. 207,Manchester, (1983).

7. Sengupta A. K., Kothari V. K., and Roy A. K.,Textile Research Journal, 54, (1), 125, (1984).

8. Bock G., International Textile Bulletin Spinning,(4), 359, (1981).

9. Acar M., Turton R. K., and Wray G. R., JournalOf Textile Institute, 77, (4), 247-254, (1986).

10. Fisher K., International Textile Bulletin, 25, (1),17-24, (1979).

11. Demir A., Melliand Textiberich, 660, E303, (1990).12. Sankhe M. D., Man-made Textile in India, XLIII,

(6), 257-261, (2000).13. Artunc H, Bocht B and Weinsdorfer. H,

Chemifasern/Textilindustrie E118-E120, (1979).14. Wray G. R. And Sen H., Journal of textile insti-

tute, 23, (1), 237-240, (1970).15. Kothari V. K., Mukhopadhyay A., and Kaushik R.

C. D., Indian Journal Of Fibre and Textile Re-search, 25, (2), 83-86, (2000).

16. Ghosh S, Grindle R and Hill M., Chemical fibresinternational, 436-438,150, (1999).

17. Mukhopadhyay A., Kaushik R.C.D. and KothariV.K., Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research,25, (4), 264-270, (2000).

18. Wray G. R. And Sen H., Journal of textile insti-tute, (23), (1), 237-240, (1970).

19. Mukhopadhyay A., Kaushik R.C.D. and KothariV.K., The Indian textile journal, 110, (8), 9-14,(2000).

20. Burnip M. S., Hearle J. W. S., and Wray G. R.,Journal of Textile Institute, 52, (8), 343-369,(1961).

21. Acar M, King T.G, and Wray. G.R, Textile Asia,62-70, (1986).

22. Acar M., Turton R. K., and Wray G. R., Journalof textile institute, 77, (6), 359-360, (1986).

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1. IntroductionColouration with microencapsulated dyes is a fascinat-ing area of research for a long however couldn't gaincommercial success as yet. The technology allows mucheven development of colour on textile with higher ex-haustion over conventional disperse dyeing. The re-quirement of many auxiliaries can also be minimized oravoided by the use of dye microcapsules, for obtainingsame colour properties. Thus it resolves the majorproblem of disposal of large volume of effluent gener-ated from conventional dyeing method. The recyclingof effluent is costlier and leads to another problem ofsludge disposal [1]. So, limiting the use of water oreven reusability of the same water after dyeing, mi-croencapsulated disperse dyes are projected to be veryefficient.

The technique of microcapsulated dyeing is based onits sustained and controlled release properties of dye inthe whole dyeing cycle. So at each moment there willbe similar amount of dye available in the transition(dispersion) phase to get sorbed into the micro pores of

polyester fibre which are swollen [2] by the applicationof high temperature and high pressure. Reports oncontrolled release of surface finishes (chemical/bio-chemical) of textile material using microcapsule tech-nology are also available [3, 4, 5, 6- 9]. Some reportsare available on disperse dyeing of PET by differentmethods with microcapsules. However, comparativeperformance reports on use of different microencapsu-lated methods are scanty [10, 11].

The present paper reports the characteristic propertiesof micro encapsulated disperse dye formed by threedifferent methods, simple and complex coacervationand spray drying for dyeing of polyester. The workwas carried out based on three important criteria; (i)simple microencapsulation method, (ii) involvement ofuser friendly and low cost equipments and (iii) avail-ability of common coating materials, for the formationof microcapsules. The microencapsulated disperse dyesformed was characterized in terms of their efficiencyof microencapsulation, average particle size and itsdistribution, thermal properties, rate of release of dye(core), and morphological structure of capsules throughscanning electron microscopy and optical microscopyinter phased with computerized image analysis system.

Hence, objective of this work is to attain a sustainedand controlled release of disperse dyes from a system

Dyeing of Polyester with MicroencapsulatedDisperse Dyes

Leena Mishra, Chet Ram Meena, Avinash K. and R.V. Adivarekar*Department of Fibres & Textile Chemical Processing Technology,

Institute of Chemical Technology

AbstractDisperse dye was microencapsulated using three different methods namely Simple Coacervation, ComplexCoacervation and Spray drying. The evaluation of parameters microencapsulation of the dye was done byThermal analysis (DSC), Particle size analysis, Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) analysis and Imageanalysis. Dyeing performance of the microencapsulated disperse dye without any auxiliaries was studiedin comparison to the conventional disperse dye (dye with same chemical structure but formulated usingconventional technique and available commercially) on polyester using HTHP method of dyeing keepingthe dyeing conditions same. Depth of dyeing of fabrics dyed with microencapsulated disperse dye werefound to be more than the dyeings using conventional disperse dyes due to sustainable/control releaseof disperse dyes from the microcapsules. The fastness properties of the microencaspuled dyed sampleswere found to be comparable to conventional disperse dyed sample.

KeywordsDisperse Dyes, Simple Coacervation, Complex Coacervation, Spray Drying, Microencapsules, Fastness.

*Correspondence should be addressed to,

R.V. AdivarekarDepartment of Fibres & Textile Chemical Processing Technology,ICT, Matunga, Mumbai - 400 019.Email - [email protected]

DYEING

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which will be cheaper in comparison to conventionaldisperse dyeing, as no auxiliaries are used and at thesame time improving the quality of dyeing by uniformdyeing and higher exhaustion of dye particles into thefibre. This technique can also provide an alternativeapproach for water conservation in textile industry.

2. Materials and Methods2.1. MaterialsThe fabric used in this study was 100% polyester witha plain weave structure with GSM - 61, ends per inch- 76, picks per inch - 68, width - 142 cm. This fabricwas supplied by Piyush Syndicate, Mumbai (India).

Chemicals used for the microcapsule formation areGelatin - A (alkali extracted high IEP 8.7) and GumAcacia (supplied by Aragum Flavor) were used ascoating agents. Disperse dyes Cbene Yellow SGL (C.I.Disperse Yellow 114, Max = 410 nm) was used ascore for formation of microcapsules and NKS (Dis-persing Agent) were supplied by Colorband DyestuffPvt. Ltd., Mumbai. Sodium sulphate, Formaldehyde,Acetic acid, Sodium hydroxide, Sodium hydrosulphite,Sodium alginate, Urea all of AR grade and were sup-plied by S.D. Fine chemicals for making ofmicrocapsules. Auxipon NP (non ionic detergent, sup-plied by Auxichem Ltd. India) was used for after treat-ment of the fabric.

2.2. Methods for Microcapsules Formation2.2.1. Simple CoacervationDye-encapsulation with gelatin by simple coacervationwas carried out at 10ºC using 20% solution of sodiumsulfate as dehydrating agent and 1% dispersing agentto attain a core to coat ratio 1:3. The microcapsuleprecipitates were then washed to remove unused so-dium sulphate and then aged with formaldehyde for 15min to harden the outer coating. The microcapsuleswere then cured at 50º C for 5 hr, washed with waterbefore air drying.

2.2.2. Complex CoacervationIn case of complex coacervation, dye-encapsulationwas done by using aqueous solution of gelatin and gumacacia (in the ratio of 1:1) with surfactant to obtain astable dispersion of dye and gelatin. Acetic acid wasadded to maintain the pH 4.1- 4.5. The microcapsuleswere hardened with formaldehyde for 15 min and thenincreasing the temperature to 50º C and pH to 9.0 byadding sodium hydroxide to the solution. Microcapsuleswere washed with water by centrifuge and then dried

at 100ºC for 3 hr.

In another method, the hardened wet microcapsuleswere fed into the spray dryer to get fine and drymicrocapsules within much reduced time, 15 min andalso to prevent agglomeration of microcapsules.

2.2.3. Spray DryingGum acacia emulsion was prepared using an ultrasonicgenerator for 30 sec. This solution is left inside a testtube for 36 hr to study the stability of the solution. Theemulsion was then passed through spray dryer at aninlet temperature of 180º C, aspiration 35-43 and feedrate 30 ml/min to obtain dry microcapsules [12, 13].

2.3. Characterisation of the Microcapsules2.3.1. Evaluation of Efficiency of Microencapsula-tion (%), Dye Loading (%), and Release Rate ofDye by Spectrophotometric MethodSpectro-photometric assessment [14] was conductedusing a UV -Visible spectrophotometer, (Model- UV-1201 of SHIMADZU, USA) with a suitable solventfor evaluation of efficiency of microencapsulation (%),dye loading (%). Microcapsules (15.0 mg) were dis-solved in solvent (20 ml) at room temperature and theamount of dye concentration was determined by spec-trophotometer using a calibration curve of absorptionat Max 410, for Cbene Yellow SGL. The solvent usedwas a mixture of dimethyl formaldehyde (DMF) andwater (1:1). DMF acts as a homogenizer for dispersedye and water acts as a solvent for the coating mate-rial (gum acacia).

For measurement of rate of release, microencapsu-lated samples of 10 +/- 0.005mg were extracted inabove solvent (20 ml) at ambient temperature sepa-rately. The extract was assayed for its absorbency inevery 20 min at the maximum absorption wavelength(?max) mentioned above. After each measurement,the extract was returned to the original solution imme-diately and a curve of time against absorbency wasdrawn.

2.3.2. Thermal Analysis (DSC)DSC analysis of samples was done using a ShimadzuDifferential Scanning Calorimeter (DSC-50), under flow-ing nitrogen (flow rate 50 cm3/min) cover at a heatingrate of 5° C/min, using a sample size of 2 mg over atemperature range of ambient (30° C) to 250° C.

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2.3.3. Particle Size AnalysisParticle Size Analyzer -1064 (CILAS, USA) was usedto analyze the particle size distribution at above 4%obscuration subjecting to an inbuilt ultra- sound sonica-tion for 60 seconds [15].

2.3.4. Morphological Structure of Microcapsulesby SEMSEM was performed on JSM- 5600LV electron micro-scope (Jeol Japan). The microcapsules were sprinkledon to a sample plate and sputter coated with gold forexamination.

2.3.5. Image Analyzer SystemImage analysis system was adopted for visual assess-ment of the microcapsules and the particle size distri-bution, using BIOVIS Image Analyzer BA 300 (Exton,PA) at magnification 40x.

2.4. Dyeing with Microencapsulated Dyes2.4.1. Pre-treatment of Polyester FabricA Mild scouring treatment was carried out with 2 g/lnon-ionic detergent, Auxipon NP at boil for 45 min toremove the spinning oil and dirt. The fabric was thenwashed, dried and was used for further dyeing pro-cesses.

2.4.2. Method of DyeingThe dyeing was carried out using normal and microen-capsulated dyes Cbene Yellow SGL of equal concen-tration to study the dye uptake by the polyester fabric.For this 0.0025% of normal dye solution is taken withDMF as solvent and its Optical Density (OD) wasfound. In the same way different concentrations ofmicroencapsulated dye solution were prepared withDMF to match with the OD of normal Dye of 0.0025%.Required amount of dye was dispersed in dye bathsand set in high temperature high pressure dyeing ma-chine using material to liquor ratio 1:30. The dyeingwas started at room temperature and the temperaturewas raised to 1300C at the rate of 20C/min with 1 hholding time.

2.4.3. After Treatment of Dyed FabricAfter dyeing, all the samples were treated with 3 g/lsodium hydrosulphite and 2.5 g/l sodium hydroxide for20 minutes at 700C- 800C to remove unfixed dispersedye. The samples were then given a cold wash, a hotwash, neutralized with acetic acid and cold wash be-fore drying.

2.7. Colour Yield MeasurementDyed samples were evaluated for the depth of thecolour by determining K/S values as well as colourstrength using Spectraflash SF 300 computer colourmatching system supplied by Datacolor International,U.S.A. An average of four readings was taken at fourdifferent sample areas was used to calculate the re-flectance values and K/S. Tone of the colour or colourdifference is also measured on the same machine interms of CIE L*, a* and b* values.

2.8. Colour Fastness MeasurementColour fastness to washing was tested using the ISOTest Method 105-CO3, sublimation fastness by theAATCC Test Method 133-199 and light fastness bythe AATCC Test Method 16A.

3. Results and Discussions3.1 Efficiency of Microencapsulation3.1.1 Dye Content (%)The relation between dye loading and microencapsula-tion method to form microcapsules with different meth-ods is shown in Figure 1. It is clear from the figure thatspray drying method encapsulates more dye comparedto simple and complex coacervation method. In all themethods, increase in dye loading (ratio of dye to coat-ing material), increased the efficiency of microencap-sulation. Particularly in case of spray drying (Figure 2),increasing dye content from 20% to 40%, there is aremarkable increment in average efficiency of microen-capsulation from 55.55% to 84.31%, as shown in Table1. The better microencapsulation efficiency resulted indecreasing the quantity of unencapsulated dye of themicrocapsules from 0.0025 to 0.0007. However, nopattern was observed for dye content of microcapsulesand is found independent to the any parameters usedin particular microencapsulation process.

Figure 1: Relation between Dye Content and Microen-capsulation Methods, Simple Coacervation (Scoa),

Complex Coacervation (Ccoa) and Spray Drying (SD)

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Figure 2: Effect of Dye Content on MicroencapsulationEfficiency in Spray Drying Process

Table 1: Estimation of Efficiency of Microencapsulation,Dye Loading (%), Free Dye (mg) and Total Dye Content(mg) of Spray Dried Microencapsulated Disperse Dyes

Type of % Dye Average Unencap- Total DyeMicroc- Content Efficiency of sulated Contentapsule Microenca- Dye (mg) [Free Dye+

psulation Dye Content] (mg)

Spray 20 55.55 0.0025 0.0056Drying 30 74.13 0.0055 0.0021

40 84.31 0.0007 0.0044

3.1.2 Release Rate of DyeThe Figure 3 shows, the rate of release of dye fromsimple coacervation, complex coacervation and spraydrying microcapsules. Simple coacervation and spraydried microcapsules showed an initial high absorbanceand the curves show a quick enhancement of theabsorbance values up to 70 min, then the curves nearlybecome flat indicating a very low release of dye fromthe capsules. The high absorbance value at the initialstage may be due to the unencapsulated dye particlesadhered to the outer surface of the microcapsules.Complex coacervate microcapsules were giving almosta regular sustained release for the total time of studyi.e., 160 min, followed by simple coacervation and spraydrying. The reason of giving much better result forcomplex coacervation may be due to much regularcoating, shape and sizes of the microcapsules. Thecurves for spray dried microcapsules showed very highrelease rate i.e. within 70 mins almost complete re-lease of the dye takes place and the absorbance in-creases from minimum absorbance to maximum absor-bance. This may be due to the inadequate, thin or/andruptured coat of the microcapsules being unable tosustain the release of the dye. This improper coating

may be due to very quick hardening or over heating ofthe already hardened microcapsules coat.

Time (Minutes)

Figure 3: Release Rate of Simple Coacervate (Scoa), Com-plex Coacervate (Ccoa), Spray Drying (SD) Microcapsules(Without Surface Dye)

3.2 Thermal analysisDSC results are given in Figure 4, which shows thethermal properties of microcapsules containing the dyeCbene Yellow SGL formed in three different methodsvis-a-vis conventional dye. For conventional dye threeendothermic peaks were obtained, the first one is forevaporation of moisture at 64.56° C, second for theglass transition (Tg) temperature at 188.53° C andthird one showing the melting point of dye at 198.82°C. If we compare this DSC curve of conventional dyewith the DSC graph of its simple coacervation, com-plex coacervation and spray dried microcapsules wecan see only one prominent endothermic peak showingthe temperature for evaporation of moisture but nomelting point. It can thus be said that the crystallinenature of the dye was modified because of the amor-phous nature of the coating provided to it due to which,the stability of the microcapsules to the thermal appli-cation has been changed. This also confirms the suc-cessful formation of the microcapsules by the processand the role of coating in increasing the stability ofmicrocapsules.

Figure 4: DSC Curves of (a) Complex Coacervation (b)Simple Coacervation (c) Spray dried microcapsules (d) PureGum Acacia (e) Pure Gelatin and (f) Disperse Dye (CbeneYellow SGL)

Abs

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3.3 Particle Size AnalysisThe particle size distribution of different microcapsulesis shown in Table 2 and Figure 5. The simple coacer-vate microcapsules have highest mean particle size144 μm compared to complex coarcervate (19.97) andspray drying (1.86) microcapsules. So it may be sug-gested that particles of simple coacervate due to anapparently higher micron size were agglomerated [16,17] to each other.

Table 2: Particle Size Analysis of Microcapsules Preparedin Simple Coacervation, Complex Coacervation and SprayDrying Methods

Types Obscur-Min Max Mean CV Size Range ofof micro ation % Microcapsulescapsule > 4% ( m)

10% 50 % 90%SimpleCoacervationComplex 6% 35.2 253.2 144.3 8.72 35.2 128.5 253.2

Coacerv-ation 4% 3.6 36.91 19.97 3.18 3.6 33.91 36.91

SprayDrying 4% 0.13 2.79 1.86 0.2 0.13 0.62 2.79

Figure 5: Size Distribution of (a) Fine Spray Drying, (b)Coarse Spray Drying, (c) Simple Coacervation (d) ComplexCoacervation Microcapsules (Cbene Yellow SGL) (for restdye used Cbene Pink REL 200%)

3.4. Morphological AnalysisSEM photographs of the surface of microcapsulesprepared by simple coacervation and complex coacer-vation and spray drying methods are shown in Figure6. In complex coacervation microcapsules, themicrocapsules are more spherical and having smoothsurfaces without any pores and cracks but the surfaceshowing inward grooves. The grooves are formedbecause of the drying. When heat is applied tomicrocapsules for drying, the diffusion of water occursat much slower rate than does the transfer of heatthrough the coat to the interior of the microcapsules.Due to the dissimilarities in the rate of inward heatflow and outward water diffusion in the microcapsules,the surface gets inward folding. In case of simplecoacervation method, the surface of the microcapsuleswas rough, folded with apparent cracks but with nopores and the coat appeared intact. One can also seethe microcapsule's surface covered with a non-uniformsalt like crystals, which is because of the sodium sul-phate salt used as coacervating agent to formmicrocapsules. The larger capsule size (100-400 μm)

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suggests that these microcapsules may be the con-glomerates of smaller microcapsules. In spray drying,the microcapsules are having very similar appearanceto the complex coacervation microcapsules SEM view.We can observe the microcapsule's surface is smoothand regular without any cracks and pores. But thedepth of the grooves is high and grooves are moreprominently visible, may be because of application ofhigh temperature (160° C-180° C) on spray driedmicrocapsules than the complex coacervatemicrocapsules (100° C), which leads to formation ofmore prominent grooves in spray dried microcapsules.

Figure 6: SEM images of (a) Complex Coacervate (b) SimpleCoacervate (c) Spray Drying Microcapsules

3.5. Image AnalysisOn image analysis (Figure 7 & Figure 8) of complexcoacervation and simple coacervation microcapsules;one can easily view the outer coating and inner corebut in the case of spray drying the coat and core arenot visible clearly because of the smaller size of themicrocapsules. According to image analysis the micro-capsule size is least in case of spray drying i.e. the sizeof the most of the microcapsules are below 5 micron,followed by complex coacervation and simple coacer-vation i.e. a high number of microcapsules are presentabove 10 micron range of the total number ofmicrocapsules (the number of microcapsules distrib-uted within a certain area exposed under the analyzer)by microscope. The image analysis gave a very sys-tematic analysis of size showing the number ofmicrocapsules and their size in μm unit.

Figure 7: Image Analysis of (a) Complex Coacervate (b)Simple Coacervate (c) Spray Drying Microcapsules (Mag-nification 40x)

Figure 8: Particles size Analysis by Image Analyzer forSimple Coacervate (a), Complex Coacervate (b) and SprayDrying(c) at Magnification 40x

3.6. Comparison of Microencapsulated and Con-ventional Dyed SampleThe depth of dyeing in terms of K/S and % strengthof the conventional dyed and microencapsulated dyedfabrics is given in Table 3. It was found that, themicroencapsulated dyed fabric showed darker shade incomparison to the conventional disperse dyed fabricsfor all the microencapsulation methods. The K/S valuewas found to be 11.6 and 12.8, for conventional dis-perse dye and microencapsulated disperse dyed fab-rics respectively. The relative strength of the microen-capsulated disperse dyed fabrics was also about 10%more (110.16% as in complex coacervation).

Table 3: Comparison of Colour values of Fabrics Dyed withConventional Disperse Dyes and with MicroencapsulatedDisperse Dyes

Disperse Dye( Cbene Yellow SGL) K/S % Strength

Complex Conventional 11.6 100Coacervation Microencapsulated 12.8 110.5

Simple Conventional 3.67 100Coacervation Microencapsulated 3.71 100.65

Spray Drying Conventional 14.0 100Microencapsulated 16.6 118.83

3.7. Fastness PropertiesThe fastness tests were carried out for all the dyedfabrics against conventional disperse dyed fabrics asshown in Table 4, dyed without any auxiliaries anddispersing agent. In fastness tests, it was found thatthe microencapsulated disperse dyed fabrics have com-parable fastness values as conventional disperse dyedfabrics. This shows that microencapsulation process

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for disperse dye does not hamper the existing dyeabilityproperties where as its application reduces the cost ofdyeing and subsequent effluent is much easy to re-cycle and safer to discharge.

Table 4: Washing, Sublimation and Light Fastness for Mi-croencapsulated Dyed Fabrics against Conventional Dis-perse Dyed Fabrics (2 % Shade)

Fastness (Change in shade)

Disperse Dye Washing Sublimation Light(Cbene Yellow (180oC)SGL)

Conventional 5 4-5 6-7

ComplexCoacervation 5 4-5 6-7

SimpleCoacervation 5 4-5 7

Spray Drying 5 4 7

4. ConclusionDisperse dye Microcapsules are formed by Simplecoacervation, Complex coacervation and spray dryingmethod using Cbene Yellow SGL. Simple coacervationmethod is although easier to form the microcapsules,inferior to complex coacervation and Spray Dryingmethod due to its bigger and irregular shape and sizeof the microcapsules and poor sustainable release prop-erty. The surfaces of complex coacervate and spraydrying microcapsules are uniform in comparison to thesimple coacervate, which is rough, folded with appar-ent cracks. In dyeing, the encapsulated disperse dyesare giving higher dyeing depth in comparison to con-ventional disperse dye even without auxillaries. Themicroencapsulated disperse dyed fabrics have compa-rable fastness values as conventional disperse dyedfabrics. This shows that microencapsulation processfor disperse dye does not hamper the existing textileproperties where as its application reduces the cost ofdyeing and subsequent effluent is much easy to re-cycle and safer to discharge.

References

1. Zhong Yi., Fengihong J., Chen Shuilin, ColorationTechnology, 121, 76-80, (2005).

2. Vaidya A.A., Production of synthetic fibres,Prentice-Hall of India Pvt. Ltd., 1, (1988).

3. Weaver M.A., AATCC Review, 3(1), 17 (2003).

4. Leadbller P.W. and Leaver A. T. Review ofProgress in Colouration and Related Topics, 19,33 (1989).

5. Report of Committee on the Dyeing Properties ofDisperse Dyes IV-Disperse Dyes on Polyester,Journal of Society of Dyers and Colourist, 93(6),288 (1977).

6. Datya K.V. and Acharekar J.Y., Journal of Soci-ety of Dyers and Colourist, 93(11), 413 (1977).

7. Gulrajani M.L., Dyeing of Polyester and It'sBlends, Raj Kamal Electric Press, Delhi, (1987).

8. Hoffman F., Textile Chemist and Colorist, 30(10),19 (1998).

9. Greenhalgh C. W., Carry J. L., Hall N. and New-ton D. F., Journal of Society of Dyers andColourist, 110 (5), 178 (1994).

10. Etters J.N., Textile Research Journal, 64(7), 406(1994).

11. Becerin B. and Iskender M. A., Indian Jr. ofFibres and Textile Research, 28(3), 100 (2003).

12. Leon Lachman., Herbert T. Liberman., Joseph L.Kanig., The Theory and Practice of Industrial Phar-macy, 3, 412 - 420 (1987).

13. Brian F. McNamee, E. Dolores O'Riordan andMichael O'Sullivan, Journal of Agricultural foodChemistry, 46, 4551-4555, (1998).

14. Shenai V. A., Technology of Textile Processing,VI, Shevak Publication, Mumbai, 358, (1981).

15. Becerin B. and Iskender M. A., Indian Jr. ofFibres and Textile Research, 28 (3), 100 (2003).

16. Asaji Kondo., "Microencapsulation Processing andTechnology", New York: Marcel Dekker Inc, 1-26, (1979).

17. J. R. Nixon., "Microencapsulation", New York, 3,pp 31, 33, 36, 37, 94-100, (1979).

��

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Texttreasure

The question for each man to settle is notwhat he would do if he had means, time, in-fluence and educational advantages; the ques-tion is what he will do with the things he has.The moment a young man ceases to dream orto bemoan his lack of opportunities and reso-lutely looks his conditions in the face, andresolves to change them, he lays the corner-stone of a solid and honorable success.

- Hamilton Wright Mabie

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1. IntroductionTextiles, especially those made of natural fibres, are anexcellent medium for the growth of microorganismswhen the basic requirements for their growth such asnutrients, moisture, oxygen, and appropriate tempera-ture are present. The large surface area and ability toretain moisture of textiles also assist the growth ofmicroorganisms on the fabric [1] which in turn resultsin inflicting a range of unwanted effects not only onthe textile itself but also on the wearer. These effectsinclude the generation of unpleasant odor, stains, dis-coloration in the fabric, a reduction in the tensile strengthof the fabric and an increased likelihood of contamina-tion [2]. In the last few decades, with the increase innew antimicrobial fibre technologies and the growingawareness about cleaner surroundings and healthylifestyle, a range of textile products based on syntheticantimicrobial agents such as triclosan, metal and theirsalts, organometallics, phenols and quaternary ammo-nium compounds, have been developed and quite a

few are also available commercially [3]. Even thoughthe excellent antimicrobials are available, their effecton ecology is always a question. Under this backdropsome of the natural dyes reported to possess antimi-crobial properties, attract the attention of the research-ers in this field.

On the other hand the development of synthetic dyestaken place at the beginning of the twentieth centuryhas come a long way and led to a more complete levelof quality and more reproducible techniques of applica-tion. Due to wide applications on variety of fibres, andthe economies of scale, considerable reduction in thedyestuff costs per kg of dyed goods has been achieved[4] making their application economical. But, duringthe last few decades, attraction of using synthetic dyesin unlimited areas is gradually receding due to an in-creased environmental awareness and harmful effectsbecause of either toxic degraded products or their non-biodegradable nature. In addition to above, some seri-ous health hazards like allergenicity and, carcinogenecityare associated with some of the azo based syntheticdyes. As a result, a ban has been imposed all over theworld including European Economic Community (EEC),Germany, USA and India on the use of some of the

Simultaneous Dyeing and Antibacterial Finishing ofSoyabean Protein Fabric Using Catechu

and Natural MordantsM. D. Teli*, Javed Sheikh and Maruti Kamble

Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology,Institute of Chemical Technology

Abstract Soyabean Protein Fibre (SPF) is considered to be important regenerated protein fibre for various applica-tions in textiles because of its unique properties. However the lack of antibacterial properties of such proteincontaining polymers is held as a severe limitation for its applications in hygienic textiles and the need tomake it antibacterial is quite intense. Although a lot of antibacterial finishes are available for textiles, thereis always question on the safety and durability of such finishes. Natural tannin mordants and catechu whichare known for to possess antibacterial properties can be utilized as safe antibacterial agents for textiles. Inthe current study, the tannin mordants were extracted from tamarind seed coats, amla (Indian gooseberry)and harda (Myrobalan fruits) and their application in natural dyeing using catechu as a dye was attempted.SPF fabric dyeing with catechu using most commonly found alum mordant was also carried out forcomparison purpose. The dyed SPF fabrics were then evaluated for colour values, fastness properties andantibacterial activities. The results clearly indicate the advantages of using natural tannin mordants bothin case of obtaining antibacterial functionality as well as eco-friendliness.

KeywordsSPF, Natural dyeing, Natural mordants, Antibacterial properties.

*All correspondence should be addressed to:Prof. (Dr.) M.D. Teli,I.C.T., Mumbai - 400019Tel. +91-022-33612811E-mail : [email protected]

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synthetic dyes (e.g. azo dyes) containing banned amineswhich finally triggered active research and develop-ment to revive world heritage and traditional wisdomof employing safer natural dyes [5]. Consumers nowa-days are becoming more and more concerned aboutenvironmental issues and hence are demanding fornatural product incorporating natural ingredient. Thusnatural dyes are gaining increasing importance as theyare obtained from renewable resources and theypresent practically no health hazards and some of themsometimes act as a health care products too [6].

However, natural dyes in general, with few expecta-tions are non-substantive and hence must be used inconjunction with mordants. Mordant is a chemical,which can fix itself on the fibre and also combines withthe dyestuff. The challenge before the natural dyers inapplication of natural colour is necessity to use metallicmordants which themselves are pollutant and harmful.Due to the environmental hazard caused by metallicmordant while dyeing of textiles, there is always anecessity of safe natural mordant for application ofnatural dyes.

Although a lot of work is done on application of naturaldyes on textile fabric, in most of the cases metalmordants are used which are environmentallyobjectionable.Tannin is an astringent vegetable productfound in a wide variety of plant parts such as bark,wood, fruit, fruit pods, leaves, roots and plant galls.Tannins are defined as naturally occurring water solublepolyphenolic compounds of high molecular weight(about 500-3000) containing phenolic hydroxyl groupsto enable them to form effective crosslinks betweenproteins and other macromolecules [7] . They are pri-marily used in the preservation of leather [8], glues,stains and mordants. Application of tannin based natu-ral mordants in natural dyeing was reported earlierfrom our laboratory [6, 9, 10].

Tannins are antimicrobial in nature and such propertiesare also displayed by catechu extract. The applicationof natural dyes using natural mordants hence can actin dual way of natural coloration and antibacterial fin-ishing for textile materials. Even though tannin contain-ing plants are available in plenty, the application ofsuch sources for extracting mordants to be used innatural dyeing has been explored to a very limitedextent. Ecofriendly natural dyeing and antibacterial fin-ishing using temple waste marigold and natural mor-dants is already reported from our laboratory [11]. In

the current work, the simultaneous dyeing and antibac-terial finishing of Soyabean Protein Fibre (SPF) wascarried out with catechu using natural mordants ex-tracted from harda (myrobalan), tamarind seed coat(TSC) and amla. The colour values were evaluatedand compared with those obtained using alum mordant.The antibacterial efficacy of the dyed material andhence the applicability in hygienic textiles has also beenstudied.

2. Material and Methods2.1. MaterialsSPF yarn (30 count) was knitted to make fabric (singlejersey) which was hot washed, bleached and used fordyeing. All chemicals used were of laboratory grade.Catechu was purchased from local market.

2.2. Methods2.2.1. Extraction of mordantThe 1% stock solution of alum was made by dissolving10 gm of mordant powder in 1000 ml water. In caseof natural mordants, the 1% stock solution was madeby boiling 10 gm of mordant powder in 1000 ml waterfor 1 h. The extract was filtered and made to 1000mland used for mordanting.

2.2.2. Extraction of dyeThe 1% stock solution of the catechu dye was pre-pared by boiling 10 g of catechu in 1000 ml water for1 h. The extract was filtered and made to 1000 ml andused for dyeing.

2.2.3. Mordanting and dyeing of SPFThe mordanting of SPF fabric was carried out in rotadyer (Rota Dyer machine, Rossari® Labtech, Mumbai)keeping the liquor to material ratio of 30:1.The fabricswere introduced into the mordant solution at room tem-perature and slowly the temperature was raised to950C. The mordanting was continued at this tempera-ture for 30 min. After mordanting, the fabric wassqueezed and dyed using catechu extract as a dye.The mordanted fabrics were introduced in dyebath anddyeing was continued at 900C for 1h. After dyeing, thefabrics were squeezed and washed with cold water.

2.2.4. Colour value by reflectance methodThe dyed samples were evaluated for the depth ofcolour by reflectance method using 10 degree observer.The absorbance of the dyed samples was measured onSpectraflash SF 300 (Datacolor International, U.S.A.)equipped with reflectance accessories. The K/S values

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were determined using expression;

(1-R) 2

K/S = 2R

where, R is the reflectance at complete opacity, K isthe Absorption coefficient & S is the Scattering coef-ficient

Dyed fabrics were simultaneously evaluated in termsof CIELAB colour space (L*, a* and b*) values usingthe Spectraflash SF300. In general, the higher the K/S value, the higher the depth of the colour on thefabric. L* corresponds to the brightness (100 repre-sents white, 0 represents black), a* to the red-greencoordinate (+ve represents red, -ve represents green)and b* to the yellow-blue coordinate (+ve representsyellow, -ve represents blue). As a whole, a combina-tion of all these enables one to understand the tonalvariations.

2.2.5. Washing fastnessEvaluation of colour fastness to washing was carriedout using ISO II methods [12]. A solution containing 5g/L soap solution was used as the washing liquor. Thesamples were treated for 45 min at 500C using liquorto material ratio of 50:1 in rota machine. After rinsingand drying, the change in colour of the sample andstaining on the undyed fabric samples were evaluatedon the respective standard scale (rating 1-5, where 1- poor, 2 - fair, 3 - good, 4 - very good and 5 - excel-lent).

2.2.6. Rubbing fastnessEvaluation of colour fastness to rubbing (dry and wet)was carried out using "crock-meter" with 10 strokes ofrubbing.

2.2.7. Light fastnessDyed fabric was tested for colourfastness to lightaccording to ISO 105/B02 [13]. The light fastness wasestimated using artificial illumination with Xenon arclight source, Q-Sun Xenon Testing Chamber with blackstandard temperature 650C with relative humidity ofthe air in the testing chamber as 40% and daylightfilter, wavelength, k= 420 nm. The samples were com-pared with the standard scale of blue wool rating (rat-ing 1-8, where 1 - poor, 2 - fair, 3 -moderate, 4 - good,5 - better, 6 - very good, 7 - best and 8 -excellent).

2.2.8. Determination of antimicrobial activities ofdyed fabricsThe antibacterial activity of the dyed fabrics was es-

timated by AATCC Test Method 100-2004 [14]. Thereduction in number of bacterial colonies formed withrespect to the untreated control sample was estimatedby using following equation,

100 (B - A)R =

Bwhere,R = % reduction in bacterial count;A = the number of bacterial colonies recovered fromthe inoculated treated test specimen swatches in thejar incubated for 24 hr contact period;B = the number of bacterial colonies recovered fromthe inoculated untreated control test specimen swatchesin the jar immediately after inoculation (at "0" contacttime).

3. Results and DiscussionsThe dyeing of SPF fabric using most commonly usedmetal mordant alum and natural mordants like harda,amla and tamarind seed coat (TSC) was attemptedand results are summarized in Tables 1.1-1.7.

Table 1.1: Effect of mordant concentration on colour valuesof mordanted SPF samples

Mordant Mordantconc, (%) K/S L* a* b*

Alum 5 1.245 74.29 1.439 22.537

10 1.399 73.13 0.754 20.975

15 1.412 74.69 1.544 23.659

20 1.469 73.47 4.095 23.251

Harda 5 2.94 60.72 2.096 16.725

10 2.987 63.19 2.542 19.774

15 3.778 62.78 2.533 19.132

20 3.80 63.74 2.941 20.289

TSC 5 1.824 62.61 5.474 20.257

10 1.99 62.75 6.305 20.272

15 2.288 60.85 6.411 18.329

20 2.366 60.15 7.269 17.606

Amla 5 2.872 58.16 3.883 17.081

10 3.139 59.4 3.923 18.503

15 3.804 58.90 4.216 18.3

20 4.254 58.59 4.175 17.752

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Initial attempt of the study was to find the contributionof mordant and dye towards colour values of the dyedSPF fabrics. Hence SPF fabrics were initially in onecase just mordanted but not dyed and in second casedyed without pre-mordanting. The results in Table 1showed the increase in K/S values with increasingconcentration of mordants. It must be noted that SPFfabrics used for dyeing were initially slightly yellowishand hence showed some colour values without anymordanting or dyeing. Alum showed least effect oncolour values with increasing concentration from 5%to 20%. However the tannin mordants showed markedincrease in K/S with increasing mordant concentration.Among the tannin mordants, amla tannin mordantshowed highest increase in K/S followed by harda andtamarind seed coat. The effect of catechu dye con-centration on colour values was also studied and re-sults are summarized in Table 1.2.

Table 1.2: Effect of dye concentration on colour values ofonly-dyed SPF samples

Catechuconc., (%) K/S L* a* b*

5 4.349 46.121 10.658 23.283

10 4.465 51.905 8.227 24.557

15 5.103 52.509 7.347 24.184

20 5.184 52.853 7.932 25.304

In the absence of any mordant (refer Table 1.2), K/Svalues showed increase with increasing dye concen-tration from 5% to 20%. The SPF showed gooddyeability towards catechu dye in absence of mor-dants, which might be due to the presence of aminogroups in protein fibres like SPF which impartssubstantivity for the dye molecules. The similar conclu-sions were made from earlier study of dyeing SPFwith marigold as a natural dye [11].

After studying the effect of mordant and dye individu-ally in absence of one of the components, the next setof experiments were carried out to optimize the con-centrations of both mordant and a dye.

In case of alum mordant (refer Table 1.3), K/S valueswere found to be increasing with increasing alum con-centration till 20%. This is quite obvious as higher theconcentration of mordant, higher is absorption on thefibre and higher will be dye absorbed indicating im-proved colour values. However the relative increase

from 15% to 20% was lower compared to that atlower concentration. Hence 15% alum can be taken asoptimum for dyeing of catechu.

Table 1.3: Effect of varying concentration of alum and cat-echu on colour values of dyed SPF fabric

Alum, Catechu, K/S L* a* b* (%) (%)

5 5 2.9932 59.741 3.697 18.686

5 10 3.7921 61.336 11.511 28.332

5 15 5.0092 60.509 11.857 27.849

5 20 6.7854 59.76 11.598 26.885

10 5 3.7925 61.178 10.448 27.58

10 10 5.0498 60.913 11.772 28.385

10 15 5.2954 58.849 9.956 25.43

10 20 7.3869 59.264 12.677 27.038

15 5 4.1609 59.906 11.04 26.638

15 10 5.5345 60.812 11.933 28.158

15 15 5.5946 60.247 13.428 28.083

15 20 7.4543 58.652 11.718 26.082

20 5 4.5744 60.556 13.598 28.033

20 10 5.2931 60.381 12.869 27.989

20 15 6.1768 58.48 13.822 25.536

20 20 7.7274 60.119 12.607 27.996

For a constant alum concentration, K/S values werefound to be increasing with catechu concentration from5% to 20%. The colour value obtained in the case ofnatural dyes is a combined contribution of the effect ofmordant and the dye. Hence the K/S was improvedwith mordant and dye concentration initially till theequilibrium was reached. The increase in concentra-tions of either mordant or dye beyond optimum con-centrations did not significantly contribute in the im-provement of the depth of dyeing which is reflected inK/S values.

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Textsmile

TEACHER : There is a frog, Ship is sinking,potatoes cost Rs 3/kg .Then, what is my age?STUDENT : 32 yrs.TEACHER : How do you know?STUDENT : Well, my sister is 16 yrs old andshe is half mad.

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The tannin mordants were varied in concentration andthe effect on dyeing are summarized in Tables 1.4-1.6.

Table 1.4: Effect of varying concentration of harda andCatechu on colour values of dyed SPF fabric

Harda, Catechu, K/S L* a* b*(%) (%)

5 5 5.322 49.156 6.958 23.865

5 10 5.5287 51.558 8.489 24.92

5 15 6.5062 51.253 9.405 25.417

5 20 8.7364 51.861 9.394 26.368

10 5 5.9852 48.534 8.303 25.522

10 10 6.7675 44.999 11.5 22.58

10 15 8.0222 47.367 7.982 25.333

10 20 8.9399 47.251 7.727 20.563

15 5 6.0985 45.065 11.683 22.645

15 10 7.8903 44.372 12.754 22.159

15 15 9.2244 46.848 9.917 26.566

15 20 11.2424 47.147 10.352 27.454

20 5 8.1798 47.531 7.353 24.293

20 10 8.727 47.384 8.891 26.077

20 15 10.3574 47.792 8.156 25.519

20 20 11.4548 46.794 10.061 26.737

Table 1.5: Effect of varying concentration of tamarind seedcoat and Catechu on colour values of dyed SPF fabric

TSC, Catechu, K/S L* a* b*(%) (%)

5 5 4.1926 47.023 10.97 21.873

5 10 5.6463 47.264 12.552 23.304

5 15 5.9929 50.128 12.652 24.315

5 20 6.9806 47.044 13.015 23.532

10 5 4.3427 49.443 11.349 22.566

10 10 5.8942 49.771 12.658 23.821

10 15 6.02 49.416 12.147 23.335

10 20 7.7274 49.779 13.546 24.481

15 5 5.0866 49.836 11.957 23.461

15 10 5.93 47.368 12.439 23.594

15 15 6.401 47.45 13.178 24.098

15 20 7.7622 50.057 13.253 24.647

20 5 5.3511 47.018 11.459 22.288

20 10 6.5905 47.095 12.909 23.562

20 15 6.7307 47.336 13.369 24.073

20 20 8.0077 47.364 14.074 24.356

Table 1. 6: Effect of varying concentration of amla andcatechu on colour values of dyed SPF fabric

Amla, Catechu, K/S L* a* b* (%) (%)

5 5 4.2779 51.09 7.697 20.709

5 10 4.7073 52.109 8.191 23.02

5 15 5.4599 49.275 10.482 23.54

5 20 6.5218 51.957 8.604 23.322

10 5 4.4784 49.234 9.703 22.873

10 10 5.0462 52.245 8.623 23.538

10 15 5.437 49.54 7.417 21.744

10 20 6.6133 51.42 7.827 22.028

15 5 4.6839 50.916 8.889 24.263

15 10 5.9337 50.078 9.74 24.025

15 15 7.1228 49.878 9.072 23.832

15 20 7.2947 50.09 9.622 24.475

20 5 4.6851 52.224 7.351 21.797

20 10 5.9604 51.555 7.127 21.368

20 15 6.3187 49.488 8.611 22.967

20 20 8.0174 48.997 11.898 24.048

Results in Table 1.4 clearly indicate the increase in K/S values with increasing harda concentrations from 5to 20% which was more or less similar for all thenatural mordants. However the colour values got al-most levelled- off for 15% mordant concentration whichwas also the case when SPF fabrics were mordanted(Table 1). For a constant mordant concentration, K/Svalues increased with increasing dye concentration. Thehigher K/S values resulted out of dyeing of pre-mordanted and dyed fabric as compared to that of thefabric sample which was not mordanted before dyeingclearly showed the role of natural tannins acting as amordant in natural dyeing. The colour values obtainedusing natural tannin mordants were higher than thoseof alum mordant and different shades were obtainedusing different mordants and dye combinations enablingone to have wider choice of hues from the gamut ofdifferent shades obtained in case of natural dyeing.

The results in Table 1.7 indicate the fastness propertiesof the dyeings obtained using various mordants. Theonly dyed samples showed much inferior fastness prop-erties as compared to those which were pre-mordantedand dyed. In other words it indicates that the mordantsplay an important role in holding of the dye on thefabric.

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Table 1.7: Effect of mordant type (20%) and Catechu (20%)on fastness properties

Mordant Mordant Catechu Fastness Properties

conc. Conc. Washing Rubbing Light

Alum - 20 2 3-4 2

Alum 20 20 4-5 4-5 6

Harda 20 20 4-5 4-5 6

TSC 20 20 4-5 4-5 6

Amla 20 20 4-5 4-5 6

The washing fastnesses obtained varied in the range of"very good" to "Excellent" grade. The rubbing fastnesswas also found to be of the grade "good" to "excel-lent". Light fastness was found to be quite satisfactory.The quantitative antibacterial assessment was madeusing AATCC-100(2004) test method and the resultsare presented in Tables 1.8.

Table 1.8: Effect of mordant type (20%) and Catechu (20%)on antibacterial properties

Mordant Mordant Catechu Bacterial Reduction (%)

conc. Conc. S.aureus E. coli

Alum 20 - 62.25 60.80

- 20 55.05 54.75

20 20 91.25 85.55

Harda 20 - 63.98 62.58

20 20 91.25 88.10

TSC 20 - 62.20 61.75

20 20 90.75 87.90

Amla 20 - 60.80 60.10

20 20 89.50 87.25

The antibacterial activity of only mordanted sampleand only dyed samples as well as that of mordantedand dyed samples are given in Table 1.8. The onlydyed sample showed least extent of antibacterial activ-ity among the three categories of the samples. Onlymordanted samples showed higher antibacterial prop-erty than that of the only dyed sample. Whereas,mordanted and dyed samples showed highest antibac-terial property. All the three natural mordants gavemore or less similar extent of overall antibacterial ac-tivity on dyeing with catechu.

4. ConclusionSimultaneous dyeing and antibacterial finishing of SPF

fabric with catechu was successfully carried out usingnatural mordants. The dyed fabrics displayed goodcolour strength, although those dyed using naturalmordants showed distinctly higher colour values thanthose obtained using metal mordant like alum. Thefastness properties were however, comparable for bothtypes of mordants. The natural mordanted-dyed samplesdisplayed broad spectrum of antibacterial activity. Thereplacement of metal mordant by the newly foundnatural mordents TSC and amla which individuallycontribute towards antibacterial property, further showedenhanced level in such property upon dyeing with cat-echu. The natural dyeing using natural mordants hencecan be utilized as simultaneous and safe antibacterialtreatment for textiles.

References

1. Su W., Wei S., Hu S. and Tang J., Journal of theTextile Institute, 102, 150-156, 2011.

2. Gao Y. and Cranston R., Textile Reearchs Jour-nal, 78, 60-72, 2008.

3. Joshi M., Ali S. W., Purwar R.and Rajendran S.,Indian Journal of Fibre Textile Research, 34,295-304, 2009.

4. Bechtold T., Turcanu A., Ganglberger E., GeisslerS.. Journal of Cleaner Production, 11, 499-509,2003.

5. Kumary J. K. and Sinha A.K., Natural ProductLetters, 18(1), 59-84, 2004.

6. Prabhu K.H., Teli M.D. and Waghmare N., Fi-bers and Polymers, 12 (6), 753-759. 2011.

7. Ramakrishnan K. S., Selve R., and Shubha R.,Ind. Chem. Eng. Section A, 48 (2), 88-93, 2006.

8. Swarna V.K., Venba R., Madhan B., ChandrababuN.K., Sadulla S., Journal of Cleaner Produc-tion, 17, 507-515, 2009.

9. Prabhu K.H.and. Teli M.D, Journal of SaudiChemical Society, Article in Press.

10. Teli M. D., Sheikh J., Trivedi R., and Katkar F.,Asian Dyer,. 9 (3), 37-41, 2012.

11. Teli M. D., Sheikh J. and Kamble M., Textiles andLight Industrial science and Technology, Acceptedpaper.

12. Trotmann, E.R.. Dyeing and Chemical Technologyof Textile Fibres, England: Charles Griffin andCompany ltd, 1984.

13. ISO technical manual, Geneva, Switzerland, 2006.14. American Association of Textile Chemists and

Colorists. AATCC Technical Manual 2007, 76, Re-search Triangle Park, NC: AATCC.

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1. IntroductionNature, unlike any other source, has a wonderful visualdevice for sensing the seven shades of the colourspectrum. Hence, it is considered as the most abun-dant source of colors. Since the early dawn of civili-zation and through the history of the human race, colourshave played a significant role in man's individual, fam-ily and social life [1, 2]. Archaeological findings haveshown that natural colours were being used in dyeing,printing, painting and preparing cosmetics among primi-tive communities throughout the world [3]. Natural dyeshave been vital source of coloration by craft dyers,printers since time immemorial. The colouring mattersprocured for roots, stems, leaves, flowers (plant ori-gin), besides this, many dyes were procured from ani-mals and minerals of natural origin. Most natural dyesare a non-substantive dye, which means that they havevery little colouring power within themselves and re-quire the aid of mordant to penetrate into the fiber [4,5].

Today, dyeing is a complex, specialized science. Dye-stuffs are now produced from synthetic compounds.This means that costs have been greatly reduced and

certain application and wear characteristics have beengreatly enhanced. But manufacturing of synthetic dyesinvolve many carcinogenic chemicals and the effluentswhich are discharged in the river or emitted into theatmosphere results ecological imbalance, pollution prob-lem and disturbed environment due to the ample usageof hazardous chemicals and particularly synthetic dyes[6,7]. As a result, attention moves towards scope ofnatural dyes. The present work is aimed at developingecofriendly natural dyes from Curcumin waste fromIndustry for textile application and assess colourfastnessof dyed samples.

1.1 CurcuminCurcuma Longa (Turmeric) is the main species ofcommerce and is cultivated for its rhizome in India,China and also in Sri Lanka, Indonesia, Jamaica, andPeru. India is the major grower with almost 80,000hectares under this crop producing 1,44,000 tonnes perannum. The plants are grown for powder, oleoresinand curcumin. Genetics improvements have been at-tempted high yielding curcumin varieties have beendeveloped through tissue culture techniques [8, 9].In addition to be beginning an important culinary spice,the dried rhizomes of turmeric also have a long historyof medicinal use. Traditionally, turmeric has been usedfor a variety of purposes. It has found use as an ap-petite stimulant, a digestive aid, a general tonic, as wellas for treating diarrhea, dyspeptic complaints, flayulence,and gallbladder complaints. It is also commonly used

Extraction of Ecofriendly Dye from Industrial Wasteand its Application in Textile Dyeing

S.V. Agarkar*, S. K.Vyas and S. S. BagadeAnuradha Engineering College

&S. T. Ingle

School of Environment and Earth Science

ABSTRACTThe colourfastness properties of the dye extracted from Curcumin industrial waste on cotton fabrics havebeen studied using different concentration like 3%, 6% and 9% of the various mordents such as alum andHarda. The wash, rubbing, light and perspiration fastness of the dyed sample have been evaluated. It isfound that Curcumin waste dye can be successfully used for dyeing of cotton fabrics. With regards tocolourfastness, tested samples exhibit good fastness to washing, rubbing, light and perspiration fastnessexcept for premordanting using Harda shows good fastness properties in alkaline media.

Keywords Colourfastness, Curcumin waste, Extraction of natural dye, Mordant.

*Correspondence should be addressed to,

S.V. AgarkarAnuradha Engineering College,Sakhegaon Road, Chikhli,Distt. -Buldana (M.S.), - 443201.Email - [email protected]

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as an anit-spasmodic in different ethnic communities.The yellow-orange color of turmeric is derived fromcurcumin, bright yellow, phenolic pigment. Turmeric,commonly known to be an anti-inflammatory herbalremedies producing far fewer side effects than con-ventional pain relievers [8].

Curcumin is the main biologically active phytochemicalcompound of turmeric. Curcumin consists of a mixtureof three naturally occurring curcuminoids, curcumin(diferuloylmethane), demethoxycurcumin, andbisdemethoxycurcumin.

Figure 1: The plant of Curcuma Longa

Figure 2: Chemical structures of curcumin

Table 1.1: Physical and Chemical Properties of Curcumin

Molecular Formula C21

H20

O6

Colour Yellow range

Molecular Weight 368.4

pH 5-8

Odour Almost odourless

Solubility Insoluble in water And slightlysoluble in Alcohol

Heavy Metals Heavy metals like Lead , Mercury, Arsenic and Cadmiumare absent

Microorganism E. Coli - Absent

Curcumin has got a wide uses and applications in thefield of pharmaceuticals especially in the field of herbalmedicine. In the present study, we have collected wastefrom herbal pharmaceutical industry. The solid wastemanagement is the problem of the industry. This wasteis ecofriendly as it is generated from curcumin. Haldioil utilized for medicinal value was extracted fromcurcumin by using isopropanol and then isopropanolwas recoverd by vacuum distillation so the waste isfree from any added chemicals.

2 Materials and Methods2.1 MaterialIn the present work, Curcumin waste from industry iscollected for the extraction of the dye. The 100% cottonbleached cotton material is used for dyeing .The mor-dants like Alum and Harda are used. Depending uponmordant used, the colour was obtained on textiles fromthe Cucumin waste from industry. The other chemicalslike acetic acid, common salt and sodium carbonatewere used for the study.

2.2. Methods2.2.1. Dye ExtractionThe extraction of dye from Curcumin waste and itsapplication to fabric is carried out. The industrial wasteis in solid form. This waste is converted into finepowder and screened for removal of unwanted solidmaterials. The fine powder thus obtained is polyphe-nolic in nature & therefore it is insoluble in water. Tomake it soluble with base like sodium hydroxide. Inthis method, Curcumin waste powder is pasted withsmall amount of water and sodium hydroxide was addedinto the bath and boiled for 1 hour to facilitate quickextraction of the dye. Then it was filtered and filtratewas collected in separate beaker.

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Textsmile

Teacher : How old is your father.Sunny :- As old as I am.Teacher : How is it possible?Sunny :- He became father only after I was born.

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2.2.2. Dyeing ProcedureThe cotton fabric is dyed with dye extract by keepingM:L ratio as 1:10. Dyeing was carried out at 800Cand continued for 1 hour.

2.2.3. MordantingThe cotton fabric samples were treated with differentconcentration of mordants like Alum and Harda byfollowing method;

Cotton fabric is pre mordanted with alum and Hardaby using 3%, 6% and 9% concentration at 80°C for45 min keeping the material to liquor ratio(M:L=1:10).This mordanted fabric was used for dyeingwithout any washing. The pre-treated cotton fabricwas introduced into dye bath containing required amountof dye extract and water. For better exhaustion addsodium chloride into the bath. Then dyeing was carriedout for 1 hr at 800C. The dyed samples were takenout, squeezed, washed with water and dried at roomtemperature.

2.2.4. Evaluation of Colour Fastness PropertiesVarious fastness tests for dye extracted from Curcuminwaste were carried out. These test asses how perma-nent the dye is on the fabric.These tests include following;

i) Washing fastness [BIS No IS - 3361-1979(test-2)]Colour fastness to washing of the dyed fabric sampleswas determined by using laundrometer following IS-3wash fastness method. The wash fastness rating wasassessed using grey scale by evaluating loss of depthof shade.

ii) Rubbing fastness [BIS No IS - 766-1988]Colourfastness to rubbing (dry and wet) was assessedby using manually operated crockmeter. In this test,the dyed specimen are rubbed 10 times using a crockmeter which has a weighted finger covered with thepiece of undyed cotton cloth (5×5cm). For wet rubbingthe cotton cloth is wetted out before being rubbed onthe dyed sample. The cotton rubbing cloth is thanexamined for dye which may have been removed andasses by using the grey scale for staining.

iii) Perspiration Fastness [BIS No IS - 791-1983]Colourfastness to perspiration was assessed; compos-ite specimen was prepared by placing the test speci-men between two adjacent pieces of cotton and stitched

all around four sides. The sample was soaked in thetest solution (acidic) separately with M:L 1:50 for 30Min at room temperature. The sample was then placedbetween two glass plates of perspirometer under loadof 4.5.Kg. The apparatus was kept in oven for 4 hr at37°C. Then specimen was removed and dried in air attemperature not exceeding 60°C and sample was as-sessed for change in colour using grey scale.

iv) Light Fastness [BIS No IS - 2454-1985]Colour fastness to exposure to light was determined bykeeping samples in daylight. The samples were ex-posed to daylight for 4 hr. The fading of each sampleswere determined by using grey scale.

3. Results and Discussions3.1. Preparation and Optimisation of Extract ofCurcumin wasteCurcumin waste powder is pasted with small amountof water and sodium hydroxide was added into thebath and boiled for 1 hour to facilitate quick extractionof the dye. Increase in the quantity of Curcumin wastepowder from 1gm to 5gm per 100ml water for extrac-tion in presence of sodium Hydroxide for 1hr at boilincreased the colour yield. The colour of dye extractwas yellow orange in colour.

3.2. Dyeing Behaviour of the dye extractThe cotton fabrics were dyed with synthetic and natu-ral mordant. It was observed that, the dye uptake wasfound to be good in pre-mordanting method. The dyeextract was found to be suitable for cotton fabric.Various shades of colours were obtained by pre-mordanting the fabric with alum and harda.The evaluation of fabric dyed with Curcumin wasteand mordanted with various concentrations of alum fortheir colour fastness properties viz., colour fastness to

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Texttreasure

A man should have any number of littleaims about which he should be con-scious and for which he should havenames, but he should have neither namefor, nor consciousness concerning, themain aim of his life.

- Samuel Butler

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washing, rubbing, perspiration and light are presentedin Table 3.1. Fabric treated with 3% alum shows fairwashing and wet rubbing fastness whereas poor fordry rubbing and perspiration fastness. Wash fastnessof fabric treated with 6% alum is same as that offabric treated with 3% concentration of alum.Colourfastness to rubbing (dry & wet) and perspirationshows fair to good rating. Wash fastness of fabrictreated with 9% alum is same as that of 3% concen-tration whereas fastness to rubbing (dry and wet) showsfair rating and fastness to perspiration & light indicatesgood fastness rating.The evaluation of fabric dyed with Curcumin wasteand mordanted with various concentrations of Hardafor their colour fastness properties viz., colour fastness

4. ConclusionIn present research work it is found that Curcuminindustrial waste can be used for colouring textiles.Various shades in various tones & hues can be ob-tained using synthetic and natural mordant. The pa-rameters viz., concentration of dye, dyeing tempera-ture and dyeing time for dyeing were also optimisedfor better results. With regards to colourfastness,samples exhibit good fastness to washing, rubbing, lightand perspiration. Heavy metals such as antimony, ar-senic, cadmium and lead were not present in the dyeextract so this dye will not cause any skin problem towearer and also not pollute the environment.AcknowledgementsThe authors are thankful to management of AEC, Chikhli

Table 3.2: Colour fastness properties of Curcumin waste applied on cotton fabric sample using different concentration ofHarda

Concentration of Mordant Washing Fastness Rubbing Fastness Perspiration Light Fastness

Rating Remark Wet Dry Remark Rating Remark Rating Remark

100% CW 2 Poor 2 2 Poor 3 fair 2 Poor

3% 4 Good 2 2 Poor 2 Poor 4 Good

6% 4 Good 4 4 Good 4 Good 4 Good

9% 3 Fair 2 3 Fair 2 fair 4 Good

Table 3.1: Colour fastness properties of Curcumin waste (CW) applied on cotton fabric sample using different concentrationof Alum

Concentration of Mordant Washing Fastness Rubbing Fastness Perspiration Light Fastness

Rating Remark Wet Dry Remark Rating Remark Rating Remark

100% CW 2 Poor 2 2 Poor 3 fair 2 Poor

3% 3 Fair 3 2 Poor 2 Poor 4 Good

6% 3 Fair 3 3 Fair 4 Good 4 Good

9% 3 Fair 3 3 Fair 4 Good 4 Good

for providing laboratory facilities & special thanks toKonark Herbals and Healthcare, Mumbai for providingCurcumin Industrial waste for study.

References

1. Ashish kumar, Priti Agrawal, Indian J. Fibre Text.Res., 34 (12), 384, (2009).

2. Kamat SY &Alat D.V, Indian Textile Journal,3(1), 66, (1990).

3. R. Siva, Current Science, 92(4), 986, (2007).4. Avwioro OG, Aloamaka PC, Ojianya NU ,Oduola

T, Ekpo EO, African journal of Biotechnology,4(5), 460, (1999).

to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light are presentedin Table 3.2. Fabric treated with 3% Harda showsgood washing fastness as compared to 3% alummordanted fabric however it shows poor rating forrubbing and perspiration fastness. Fabric treated with6% harda shows good fastness to washing, rubbingand perspiration whereas with 9% harda, it shows fairwashing, rubbing, perspiration and good Light fastnessproperty.Among all mordants used for study, it was found that,6% concentration of Harda gave better result as com-pared to alum mordant. It is found that Curcumin wastedye can be successfully used for dyeing ofcotton fabrics.

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5. S. Ganesh, Indian journal of traditional knowl-edge,7(1),125, (2008).

6. Kumarsen M, P.N.Palanisamy, P.E.Kumar, In-dian J. Fibre Text. Res., 37(6), 194, (2012).

7. Saravan P., Chamndra Mohan G., Universal jour-nal of Evironmental Research and Technology

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1(3), 268, (2012).8. http://www.fao.org/fileadmin/templates/agns/pdf/

jecfa/cta/61/Curcumin.pdf9. Saima Umbreen, Shaukat Ali, Tanveer Hussain,

Rakhshanda Nawaz, RJTA, 12(4), 1,(2008).��

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Innovation in Textile Processing: The Need for aChange in Mind-Set

The textile industry is extremelytraditional. The processing sectorhas not really seen any path-break-ing innovation or change in the pastfew decades. There have beendevelopments in technology such asthe E-Control from Monforts, or InkJet printing. But, more or less, tex-tile processing methods, machinesand chemicals usage has remainedstatic in terms of innovation.

During my 25 years' experience inthe textile industry, I have a feelingthat the dye house managers andtechnicians also really do not wantto take risks and innovate. Mostlike to remain in their "comfortzone" - unable to move out and trytake risks & adopt new changes.Even when new techniques arepromoted and they see the benefitsof the same, the tendency is to stickto the old 'tried and tested' meth-ods, rather than to accept andimplement the new.

My observation can be illustratedwith my following experiences:

Alkaline Dyeing of Polyester

During my stint at Ciba SpecialtyChemicals, we had developed arange for alkaline dyeing of poly-ester. These were specialty dis-perse dyes that were stable uptothe pH of 10.5. (Disperse dyeing isdone at acidic pH (4.5-5.5) as thestability of disperse dyes beyond apH of 8 is poor).

Alkaline dyeing has many advan-tages:� The problem of oligomers that

are generated during the HTdyeing process is drastically re-

duced, as the oligomers formedare saponified under alkalineconditions

� Brighter shades are obtained� The reduction clearing process

is minimized

The alkaline dyeing of polyester isgreatly suited to the dyeing ofsarees in Surat, where a weightreduction pre-treatment with caus-tic soda is given prior to dyeing, toobtain lustre and smooth surfacefeel on the fabric. Since this is doneunder high pH conditions (pH12), itis imperative to neutralize the fab-ric with strong acids to ensure acidicconditions prior to starting dispersedyeing.

In order to help save time & chemi-cals and reduce environmental im-pact, I tried to push alkaline dyeingof polyester in the Surat market.During initial discussions, I met withscepticism and disbelief that poly-ester can be dyed in alkaline me-dium. After some efforts, a trial ata particular mill was arranged. Theprocess was as follows:

Weight reduction ---->Hot wash @80oC for 10 min----> Add alkalinebuffer and Terasil AD dispersedyed----> Dye at 130'C at pH 10.5-11----> Hot wash @ 700C for 15min----> Neutralize with acetic acid

This process saved almost 3-4 bathscompared to the established pro-cess, alongwith reduction of corealkali neutralizing acid & aceticacid+ sodium acetate buffer usedin the dyebath.

The dye house manager of the millwhere the trial was fixed was

Mr. Prasad PantMr. Prasad Pant has completed his B.Scin Chemistry from Mumbai Universityin 1983 and B.Sc(Tech) in Textile Chem-istry from erstwhile University Depart-ment of Chemical Technology (UDCT)- now ICT, in 1986. Subsequently, hecompleted his Diploma in Managementfrom NMIMS in 1988.

His work experience spans over 25 yearsin the textile industry. He started witha brief stint of 4 months at MadhavnagarCotton Mills, Sangli as a managementtrainee, where he was exposed to weav-ing and processing. He then got anassignment with Chemiequip Ltd, a re-active dyes manufacturing company atAmbernath in their Technical ServicesDepartment. He conducted a lot of bulktrials for their newly introduced"Chemistron" range of dyes.

He then joined Indian Dyestuffs In-dustries Lts, a Mafatlal Group as aTechnical Sales Representative, and roseto the level of Zonal Manager(West).After 8 years with IDI, he was trans-ferred to the joint venture company ofIDI & Ciba Specialty Chemicals. heworked there as Regional Manager andSouth Asia Technical Head for Polyes-ter & blends.

After 6 years at Ciba, he joined AtulLtd - a Lalbhai Group company - asHead of Marketing in their Colors Di-vision. Subsquently he worked atColourband Dyestuffs Pvt Ltd as Vice-President (Marketing) and now hasjoined NimkarTek Technical Services PvtLtd - an environment consulting com-pany- as their CEO.

He has vast experience in technicalmarketing of dyes & chemicals, teambuilding, strategy formulation, productinnovation and environmental compli-ance issues in the textile supply chain.

TEXPERIENCE

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Clays are inorganic substances,primarily containing elements likeSi, O, Al, Mg and Ca. The claysdiffer by the ratio of these elementsin the deposits. The exchange ofAluminum by other metals or sili-con in the crystalline structure givesthe clay a negative charge on thesurface of the sheets (deficit ofcharge). In the presence of water,this negative charge develops andthe sheets of clay automaticallyseparate out, exposing a huge sur-face area for adsorption of metalions and all kinds of weakly cat-ionic impurities, including pectinsand hydrophobic waxes.

Clays - unlike surfactants - areinsensitive to pH, temperature orelectrolyte (they do not have acloud point), and this opens uppossibilities of newer processessuch as SINGLE BATH SCOUR-ING & DYEING. Thus, by usingclay products, it is possible to scourand dye in a single bath - and thussave 4 drains! The process is asfollows:

I successful conducted bulk trialson black shades in many mills in

Tirupur, as also at a reputed yarndyeing unit at Bhilwara. Manyshades - from medium grey to black- were tried with the above pro-cess and results obtained in termsof shade reproducibility, fastness &other quality parameters and cost-ing were excellent.

Yet, after all these efforts, I founda general reluctance to shift to thisnew process- where enormousamount of water and time could besaved! Some of the mills did startusage, but it took a long time andconstant follow-up to change theirmind- set!

We keep lamenting that there hasbeen no path- breaking innovationin our textile processing industryand new technologies are not be-ing made available for upgradingthe existing processes. But my"Texperience" suggests that thetechnicians in our industry must firstbe ready to change their mind- setand accept new initiatives with anopen mind, take risks in trying newthings and introduce innovationsconstantly in their daily operations.Only if we are ready to take thesesmall steps, we can be ready forpath-breaking innovations!

Let us hope that the technicians ofthe new generation are ready toaccept the challenge!

greatly surprised when he saw theresults of the trial. He asked me toconduct more trials in some darkshades and could not believe theresults. Although the prices of thedyes + buffer used were higher thanhis conventional disperse dyeingsystem, I could demonstrate to himthat total cost of dyeing - includingwater, energy, chemical and ETPcosts- was not far from his currentcosting. However, inspite of con-stant follow-up, persuasion andconviction, he did not change fromhis current set-up !

Grey stage dyeing of cotton knits

Processing of cotton knits involvesa lot of steps, starting with scour-bleach operation to the finishingoperation.

The normal sequence for darkshades is as follows:Grey Knit Fabric

Scour & Bleach

Hot Wash

Peroxide Quenching

Hot Wash

Start Dyeing

There are at least 4 drains that goto the waste water treatment plantin this sequence.

When working with an erstwhilecompany, we started promoting theirCLAY - BASED products for pre-treatment of cotton, usage of whichcould substantially alter this process.

TEXPERIENCE

ATTENTION TAI UNIT HEADS

Please send your Unit Activities, event reports immediately as soon asan event held

AlsoPlease send all forthcoming events & Programmes in advance forpublishing in

JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE [email protected]; [email protected]

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Thermomigration is the term usedto describe the movement of dis-perse dyes out of synthetic fibersduring heat treatment and theiraccumulation on the fiber surface.It is the movement of dye duringpost-heat treatment of a polyestersubstrate, resulting in the accumu-lation of dye at the fiber surface aswell as the limited sublimation ofthe dye to the surrounding atmo-sphere. Thermomigration involvesthe desorption of dyes from thefiber and their transfer into prepa-ration and finishing chemicals un-der the influence of heat and time.This impairs the light fastness, rub-bing fastness, wet fastness to per-spiration and fastness to dry clean-ing. Shade changes may occur, andthe adjacent materials may getstained during subsequent heattreatments such as ironing andpressing.Polyester does not contain anygroups that can be used to fix adye, either by reaction or by at-tractive processes, hence the dyeis merely held in solid solution. Itfollows that a dye that is readilytaken up by the fibre is equallyvulnerable to come out from fibres,gives rise to thermal migration, aserious problem in polyestercolouration. The fastness proper-ties of polyester and polyesterblends dyed with disperse dyes areimpaired by drying and heat-fixa-tion processes, finishing chemicalsor a combination of both and soft-eners during curing. The complexproblems surrounding this subjectare often loosely summed up bythe term 'thermomigration'.

Thermomigration and its Effect on Wet Fastness of Disperse Dyes

Figure 1: Causes of fastness problemon polyester during the dyeing, fin-ishing and distribution processes

Many a times there is confusionover terminology "thermomigration"and just "migration". By migrationwe mean in general terms themovement of dye in or on a textilefibre under certain treatment con-ditions, which is generallyfavourable leading to level dyeingthermomigration is specific to dis-perse dye leading to post treatmentfaults.

Thus, migration processes play partin;

� Levelling in exhaust dyeing:Levelling.

� Drying of padded textiles:Migration.

� The movement of the dye intothe inside of the fibre: Diffu-sion.

� The movement of the dye frominside to outside of a fibre whendyed textiles come in contactwith certain auxiliaries.

� No temperature effect: Solventbleeding or desorption.

� The movement of the dye frominside to outside of a fibre when

dyed textiles come in contactwith finishing agents and soft-eners etc. during curing and indyeing and heat fixationprocesses generally: Thermi-gration.

The Causes of Thermomigrationmay be Summarised as

� Spinning preparations (coingoils)

� Substrate and depth of colour� Fibre blend ratio� Drying/setting temperature� Sublimation fastness of dyes

and type of fibres� Dye concentration� Dyeing procedure, dyeing aux-

iliaries and after treatment� Finishing chemicals and condi-

tions� Time and temperature� Residues of preparation and

dyeing auxiliaries

Test Method forThermomigration

Reliable tests, which simulate plantconditions, are an important prereq-uisite for solving thermomigrationproblems. Disperse dyes that arepresent on the fibre surface after

TEXNOTES

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Thermomigration can be dissolvedwith acetone or dimethyl formamideat room temperature and deter-mined by photometric or chromato-graphic methods. However, it is tobe noted that, the quantity of dyesdissolved out is not always propor-tionate to the deterioration in fast-ness.

Measures to PreventThermomigration

The knowledge of the manifoldcauses and circumstance that leadto problems with fastness proper-ties provides the necessary foun-dation to come out with all mea-

sures that can be taken to tacklethe problem.� Dye selection� Choice of finishing chemicals� Curing and/or thermofixation

conditions (time and tempera-ture)

� Application of special chemi-cals

� Special dyes� After treatment of the finished

fabric� Application of polyester for

basic dyeing

The key factors for restrictingthermomigration are correct dyeselection, well penetrated dyeing,

least possible amount of carrier andlevelling agents, through reductiveclearing, washing off after soapingof cellulosic dyeing, curing at lowtemperatures using low tempera-tures curing catalyst and use ofnon-extracting softeners. Thisshows that the problems caused bythermomigration are not insurmount-able. If advantage is taken of allthe possibilities available to counter;then a high standard of fastnesscan be achieved, even with criticalshades and enables one to stayahead of the competition.

- By Chet Ram Meena

TEXNOTES

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DELHI-UNIT

4th Managing Committee Meetingof Delhi unit was held on October27th, 2012 at 5:30 PM at The Tex-tile Association (India) - Delhi Unit

UNIT ACTIVITIES

The Textile Association (India)

Office. The Managing Committeecongratulated Mr. R.K. Vij on re-ceipt of Industry Excellence Awardand Mr. Sudhish Aggarwalla on re-ceipt of Service Memento Awardfrom The Textile Association (In-dia) during 68th AITC. It was unani-mously decided to adopt four yearterm w.e.f. existing term for Gov-erning Council Members. Regard-

ing term for Office Bearers andManaging committee, it will discussand will take the appropriate deci-sion. It was decided to organizeNational Textile Seminar during Jan-Feb '13. Further, Mr. D.K. Singh,Director, NOYFIL SA has been co-opted member in managing com-mittee.

Job Opportunity

Bekaert N.V, Headquartered in Belgium, a global market leader in drawn steel wire products andapplications, serving customers in 120 countries & having a combined sales turnover of 4.6 billioneuros.We invite applications from young, dynamic, target oriented individuals for the position of Sales &Service Engineer (Non-woven Business) [email protected], for the Textile sectorwhere Bekaert supplies carding metallic wire products to customers in textile industry.This position will be reporting to the Sales Director (South Asia &Southeast Asia).

Education: any graduation or diploma engineering.

� Location: Ahmedabad.

Key Skills

� Diploma or degree in Textile or Mechanical Engineering� 3-5 years of experience in mounting & fitting of non-woven wires.� Process knowledge of non-woven wires, fitment, mounting services.� Trouble shooting on non-woven cards.� Commercial knowledge.� Customer handling, negotiation skills.� Good command over English & Hindi.

Primary Responsibilities

� Mounting & fitting of non-woven wires at customer site.� Trouble shooting, technical services to non-woven customers.� Day to day sales follow up, generating new business, customer development� Carry sales target.

Salary is not a constraint for the right candidate.Interested candidates please email your resume to [email protected] as early as possible

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December 05, 2012 - The Depart-ment of Fibres and Textile Process-ing Technology of the Institute ofChemical Technology (ICT),Matunga, Mumbai, on December05, 2012, organised an InternationalConference on the theme, 'Build-ing a Sustainable Value Chainthrough Green Technology - Flour-ish or Perish?', at the Bombay Con-vention and Exhibition Centre,Goregaon, Mumbai. The Convenorof this Conference calledTexSummit 2012 was an elite per-sonality in himself, Prof. (Dr.) M.D. Teli, a Professor at the Depart-ment and also an ex-Dean of ICTand former Head of the TextileDepartment. He welcomed the dig-nitaries and explained the back-ground of selection of the subjectof sustainability and how the Con-ference unfolded. While express-ing his gratitude for the presenceof eminent personalities, he alsonarrated with appreciation the tire-less efforts of his team under theleadership of present Head of theDepartment, Prof. (Dr.) R. V.Adivarekar and the faculty col-leagues.

The Conference was inauguratedby the Chief Guest Shri A.B.Joshi,an esteemed Commissioner of Tex-tiles, Ministry of Textiles, Govern-ment of India. Shri R. D. Udeshi,President Polyester Division, Reli-ance Industries Ltd. and Shri.Pawan Poddar, Joint ManagingDirector, Siyaram Silk Mills, werethe eminent Guests of Honour. TheChief Guest as well as the Guestsof Honour voiced their opinion onthe existing perils of having non -Sustainable Practices in the TextileIndustry, which is one of the oldest

ICT's TexSummit 2012: A SustainabilityConference with Difference!

and most prominent Industries inIndia. Present during the inaugura-tion were Mr. R. S. Bachkaniwala,Chairman and Ms. SeemaSrivastava, Executive Director andMr. Sanjeev Lathia, Treasurer, In-dia ITME Society, who had madethis as an official Conference ofIndia-ITME 2012. Prof (Dr.) G. D.Yadav, Vice-Chancellor, Institute ofChemical Technology, present onthe occasion took us through thejourney of eighty years of ICT'sroyal academic and research ex-cellence with a number of laurels.Mr. Sanjay Chawla, Founder, DFUPublications adorned the dais dur-ing inaugural ceremony, being as-sociate organiser of TexSummit2012. The Book of Papers/Confer-ence Proceedings, Edited by Prof.Teli and Dr. Sujata Pariti, wasformally released during the inau-gural function, which was con-cluded with the vote of thankswhich was ably delivered by Dr.Sujata Pariti, Adjunct Professor, ofthe Department.

While playing a duel role of Chair-man cum Speaker, Prof (Dr.) M.D Teli set the first Technical ses-sion in motion by presenting theTheme paper "Building a Sustain-able Value Chain through GreenTechnology". The growing organi-zation should see competitive busi-ness opportunity while putting stakeholders-model for creating value intheir business was his message.Then followed a talk by Dr. AnupRakshit, Vice President, PolyesterStaple Business, Reliance IndustriesLimited, on "Sustainable Efforts indeveloping Fibrous Polymerswherein he dwelled deep in theneed for recycling of polyester

bottles and how RIL is carrying outthis activity. Mr. Manohar Samuel,Joint President, Birla Cellulose,explained in depth the sustainabilitybeing at the core of Viscose staplefibre. Mr. Bernd Plankenhorn, SalesManager, Benninger AG, Switzer-land, expressed the need to look atvarious machineries in Textile pro-cessing from the point of view oftheir ability to produce textile ma-terials with least of Carbon foot-prints. He spoke on thus "GettingReady for the New Carbon Foot-print Regulations". Last, but not theleast, speaker of this first sessionwas the eminent Prof. SubhashAnand, Professor of TechnicalTextiles, The University of Bolton,U.K., who made presentation onthe topic, "Designer Natural - fibreGeotextiles: A New Concept". In-creasingly the natural fibres due tobiodegradability and sustainabilityaspects are going to be more andmore important, opined Prof.Anand. In his summing - up Prof.Teli, stressed the need to remainalways cognizant of the issues re-lated to sustainability in all the lev-els of value chain in Textiles andapparels.

Chairman of the Second Sessionwas Dr. P. R. Roy who is cur-rently a Chairman of DiagonalConsulting (India). Dr. Roy enthu-siastically guided all through thissession, which comprised of thefirst speaker, Dr. Gerard de Nazelle,CEO, Polygenta Technologies Lim-ited, who spoke on the necessity oftoday's Polyester. The title of hispaper "Completely Recycled, butEquivalent to Virgin Polyester forSustainability" aptly described ef-forts of Polygenta in developingcolour-free polyester from recycledPET bottles. Next was Mr. ManujKanchan, Director, South Asia,Jeanologia Management, Spain,

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whose lecture on the dirty habits inDenim Washing, i.e., "The New Eraof Washing: Responsible Technolo-gies", was well appreciated by thedelegates attending the conference.Mr. Ganesh Srinivasan, Head ofTechnologies, Resil Chemicals Pvt.Ltd., spoke on the, "Role of Par-ticulate N9 Pure Silver, Antimicro-bial for Sustainable, Odour-free andHygienic Textile Applications",wherein he discussed the impor-tance of having sustainable anti-microbials for the processing oftextiles. Mr. Jayant Khera, RegionalIndustry Sales Manager,Novozymes South Asia Pvt. Ltd.,in his turn, spoke very ably on the"Need for Clean Water and Con-tribution of Enzymes". The 'hi-tech'topic of "Membrane Application forTextile Processing Industry" wasdiscussed by Mr. John Morrison,Senior Vice-President, Koch Mem-brane Systems, USA and he citedvery good experiences of applica-tions of this technology.

At the end of this session Dr. P. R.Roy not only summarised the top-ics under discussion, but also opinedhis views on the critical state oftoday's textile process houses andthe steps which should be taken toremedy this situation.

The Chairman of the Third Ses-sion, Mr. Ullhas Nimkar, who is thedynamic Chairman and ManagingDirector of Nimkartek TechnicalServices Pvt. Ltd., most ably tookthe already enthralled audiencethrough the papers presented in thislast session. The first speaker ofthe session was one of the oldestAlumini of the Department of Fi-bres and Textile Processing Tech-nology, ICT; Prof. (Dr.) RoshanShishoo, Director, Shishoo Consult-ing AB Sweden, who delivered hislecture on the topic, "Sustainability

Aspects of Some Elements in theTechnical Textiles Value-Chain".Mrs. Ruparani Trivedi, ManagingDirector, Adiv Pure Nature Pvt.Ltd., spoke on the moral duty ofall, through her topic, "A ProjectBased on Building Sustainabilitywith Social Responsibility at allStages of Enterprise ". Her's is asocial enterprise ably assisted byICT's Textile department. The nextspeaker Dr. Charu Jain, GlobalSustainability Manager, DyStarSingapore Pte. Ltd., gave "Innova-tive Solutions to bring Sustainabilityin Textile Supply Chain" where inshe spoke on kind of efforts DyStaris engaged in this direction. Mr.Stefan Thumm, Head - EffectChemicals, Rudolf GmbH, Ger-many, spoke on the finishing as-pects of textile processing through,"New Quaternary PerformanceSilicone Softeners". The very lastspeaker of the day Dr.Varalakshmy Chaudhari, Manager- Sustainability Services, SGS IndiaPvt. Ltd., wrapped - up the sessionby speaking on, "Greening the Fu-ture: Product Carbon Labels".

Mr. Nimkar at the end of this lastsession summed - up the lecturespresented very lucidly and appreci-ated the efforts being taken byvarious companies while express-ing the need of many more stepsrequired to be further taken up forthe cause of sustainability in thefuture.

The vote of thanks was given byDr. R. D. Kale, an Assistant Pro-fessor, at the Textile Department,wherein he especially thanked allthe Donor Companies like RelianceIndustries Limited, Siyaram SilkMills Limited, Resil Chemicals Pvt.Ltd., Bombay Rayon Fashions Lim-ited, DyStar India Pvt. Limited,BASF India Limited, Benninger AG,

CHT (India) Pvt. Ltd., PolygentaTechnologies Ltd., Rudolf AtulChemicals Ltd., Colourtex Indus-tries Limited, Novozymes SouthAsiaPvt. Limited, Sarex Chemicals,Alok Industries Ltd., RossariBiotech Ltd., Colorband Dyestuff(P) Ltd., Chemistar IntermediatesPvt. Ltd., NimkarTek TechnicalServices Pvt. Ltd., Bombay Dye-ing, L. N. Chemical Industries andthe companies who placed theiradvertisements in the ConferenceProceedings. He also thanked thevery charming as well as highlyintellectual, Compeer Ms. ShaddhaTeli, an MBA on the subject ofsustainability, from the Universityof Exeter, U.K., who very enthusi-astically guided all, through the day.

The conference was well attendedby more than 500 delegates fromall walks of the Industry. This kindof response is certainly not seenanywhere today especially as it wasa whole nine hour long conference,which itself speaks for the abilityof successfully organising confer-ences by the team of experiencedexperts and faculty at the Depart-ment like Prof. Dr. M. D. Teli, Prof(Dr.) S. R. Shukla, Prof. (Dr.) R.V. Adivarekar, Dr. (Mrs.) UshaSayed, Dr. R. D. Kale and Dr.Sujata Pariti and the staff and stu-dents of the Department of Fibresand Textile Processing Technologyalogwith Mr. Sanjay Chawala andMs. Shraboni Mukherjee of DFUpublications.

Report by- Dr. Sujata Pariti,Adjunct Professor, ICT,Email : [email protected]

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Texttreasure

The future belongs to thosewho believe in the beauty oftheir dreams.

- Eleanor Roosevelt

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Celebrating 80 years of ICT andintroducing N9 Pure Silver™

The event conducted by Resil inhonour of The ICT at The Orchid,Mumbai on the 5th of December2012 was truly a grand success.Besides a felicitation to commemo-rate 80 years of The ICT, the verylatest in anti-microbial technology-N9 Pure SilverTM was also intro-duced on this prestigious occasion.The event which was graced byeminent professors from the ICTincluded a sneak peek into the ICT'sjourney by Prof (Dr.) M D Teli anda Technical Overview on themyriad of benefits enabled by theusage of N9 Pure SilverTM withinthe Textile industry. The enlighten-ing presentations were followed byCocktails and Dinner.

Established in 1933, with a focuson taking India's repository ofknowledge in the field of chemicalscience and technology to the glo-bal level, the ICT has grown tobecome one of Asia's premier in-stitutions devoted to education,

Technology Going Places

training, research and industrial col-laboration in chemical engineering,chemical technology, applied chem-istry, pharmacy, biotechnology andbio-processing.

The ICT has nurtured some ofIndia's most gifted minds. Its dis-tinguished alumni have excelled inevery sphere. It is ranked as thebest chemical engineering andchemical technology teaching andresearch institute in India andamong the 10 top institutions in theworld in an annual ranking of chemi-cal engineering programs conductedby the Georgia Institute of Tech-nology, USA.

Resil Chemicals Pvt Ltd is a well-known and trusted name in theAsian textile space as a high-qual-

tre (ARC) and R&D labs. Thelatest global offering to emergefrom these research initiatives is N9Pure Silver™. N9 Pure Silver™ islaunched and marketed through ajoint venture organization N9 WorldTechnologies Pvt Ltd.

N9 Pure Silver™ is a silver-basedantimicrobial application that can beeffectively used on textiles andother material. It consists of pure,metallic silver in pure, de-ionisedwater. As an antimicrobial, it notonly keeps the treated surfaceclean, safe and hygienic, but alsooffers a safe and natural way tokeep textiles, clothing, leather, juteand upholstery odour-free andfresh.

N9 Pure Silver™ is an Oeko-Texlisted product - the only one inIndia.

Among the brand names that havealready experienced N9 Pure Sil-ver™ are DIM, Marks & Spencer,Louis Philippe, Urbana, UTC Tow-els (UK), George Shirts (BhartiWalmart), Raymond, Amanté, etc.

Resil continues to invest researchand resources into growing thepossibilities of N9 Pure Silver™.The company is also venturingoutside the textile space, into thedomestic, healthcare and hospital-ity industries to reach out to morepeople. Some of these areas in-clude cleaning products and disin-fectants, fragrances and freshen-ers , mosquito repellents, auto de-tailing, agriculture and pharma.

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ity manufacturer of silicone prod-ucts and solutions. It closely fol-lows world trends and technolo-gies, and works towards creatingand offering global solutions indig-enously - with support from theirin-house Application Research Cen-

Textsmile

Teacher: Paul, what is thechemical formula of Water?Paul: H,I,J,K,L,M,N,OTeacher: What is this?Paul: Well!! you said it is H2O.

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Mr. Sohail Sheikh and Ms. RohiniNimje, students of final year Di-ploma Programme in Textile Manu-facture of Government Polytech-nic, Nagpur won first prize in Na-tional level Paper writing competi-tion organized by The All India Fed-eration of Co-operative SpinningMills Ltd. and DKTE Society'sTextile and Engineering Institute ,Ichalkaranji recently. The awardcomprises of cash prize ofRs.5,000/-, trophy and a citation.The students received the prize at

the hands of Mr. Anchal, CEO AlokIndustries Ltd. in a function heldduring ITME 2012, Mumbai.

L to R: Prof. Deepak Kulkarni,Awardees Mr. Sohail and Ms Rohini,& Principal Dr. R.S. Naidu40 papers were submitted by stu-

dents of textile courses for thecompetition from different textileinstitutes in the country. The majorareas of paper submitted were 'Fu-ture of Spinning industry in 2020','Yarn quality requirement for highspeed weaving', 'Work practicesand measures to improve produc-tivity of spinning mill', 'Value addi-tion in Spinning and Marketingstrategy for long termsustainability'. The title of theirpaper was "Role of energy conser-vation in Spinning mill". DeepakKulkarni, Head, Textile Manufac-ture, guided the students. Dr. R.S.Naidu, Principal, of the institute con-gratulated the winners.

Textile Students of Government Polytechnic,Nagpur bag first prize in National Paper

presentation competition

Dr.Stefan Weidner-Bohnenberger

Head Product Management Ro-tor Spinning

The innovative spinning technologyof the new automatic R 60 rotorspinning machine from Rieter en-sures better, more uniform andsofter yarns. The R 60 sets newstandards for speed, low energyconsumption and high efficiency. Atthe ITMA 2011 in Barcelona, ourcustomers clearly recognized howeasy, operationally reliable andclearly designed this rotor spinningmachine is compared to other ma-chines.

Figure1 : R 60 Rotor SpinningMachine

High yarn quality is the basisfor the success of a spinningplant

The new S 60 spinning box of theR 60 features all the proven ad-vantages of its predecessor the SC-R version and has been furtherimproved.

Noticeable is the absence of adelivery tube. The new TWISTunitof the R 60 unites delivery nozzle,TWISTstop and channel insert inone construction. The unit and itselements are very easy and quick

to replace, even without tools.

The new construction prevents fi-ber accumulations or spinningvacuum from changing the spinningconditions. The box no longer hasany covers under which fibers canaccumulate. The optimized spinninggeometry reduces the spinning ten-sion and improves the spinning sta-bility. This can clearly be seen withcritical applications such as soft-turned yarns or with the increaseduse of short fibers such as combernoil, card and blowroom waste.Thanks to the "cool nozzle technol-ogy" heat dissipation to the nozzleis good which leads to a coolersurface. This provides further po-tential for higher productivity withsynthetic fibers and their blends.

New R 60 Rotor Spinning Machine- Technological Progress

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Figure2 :R 60 - Nm28/Ne17,100% Cotton Weaving Yarn

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New spinning technology for su-perior yarns and lower energyconsumptionSeveral customers could alreadyexperience the technological ben-efits of the new spinning box in theform of better yarn strength andevenness. In direct comparison tothe latest competitor models, theinnovative spinning technology ofthe R 60 is already a step aheadby up to 0.75 cN/tex and by 20 %higher IPI values. In the exampleshown (Fig. 2) - Ne 17 weavingyarn of 100 % cotton - this advan-tage in strength can be transformedinto a productivity increase of 9 %.The originally required yarn strengthcan be achieved by a constant ro-tor speed with appropriately lowertwist. This additionally results in afurther reduction of the energyconsumption per kg of yarn to anequivalent of 9 %.

Savings with raw materialAgain the further developed Rieterspinning technology proves itsstrength, particularly with a highproportion of short fibers or withhigh trash content in the feed sliver.The adjustable bypass, the reducedspinning tension and the new auto-matic, individual centering of theexit nozzle and rotor improve thespinning stability. The mechanicalrotor cleaning by the robot with theunique VARIOclean is effectivewith every piecing and doffingcycle. This ensures that the spin-ning position subsequently contin-ues production at the highest qual-ity level with thoroughly cleanedrotor grooves.

Piecing quality is particularlyimportant with a high rate ofyarn breakagesThe ends down rate when spinningwith the R 60 is reduced by low-ered spinning tension. The 25 %quicker robot, in comparison to theR 40, can deal with a far greaternumber of ends down and maintainthe high efficiency of the machine.The robots need only 20 secondsfor the complete cycle includingcomplete rotor cleaning and doff-ing. With the unique AEROpiecing®technology, almost yarn-like piecingsin mass and strength are achieved.Only this can prevent more piecingsgenerating substantial costs indownstream processing.

Faulty piecings create highcostsA sample calculation shows thefollowing: a typical Ne 12 denimweaving yarn contains around 0.5piecings per kg of yarn. Just oneyarn break in the weaving planttoday costs - worldwide - approx.2 EUR, as alongside the efficiency,the fabric quality is very quicklyalso influenced. Such faults in thefabric are paid for by the buyerswith expensive compensation. Un-der these circumstances, with onlya 1 % lower rate of faulty piecingsin the weaving plant, already 0.01EUR per kg of yarn can be saved.This leads to significant savings oreven better, to higher profits for thespinner.

Central drive consumes less energyThe modern concept of the R 60was specifically optimized for low

energy consumption. The greatestenergy consumers of the rotor spin-ning machine are the drives forrotor, suction and opening rollers.For the rapidly turning rotors andopening rollers, optimized tangen-tial belt drives have continued toprove energy saving. For the cen-tral suction the R 60 exhibits ad-vantages, as the electronically-con-trolled vacuum combined with theautomatic filter cleaning avoidsunnecessary losses.The life cycle of the electroniccomponents can be extended byspecific heat dissipation. For in-stance, in the R 60 the drive in-verters were concentrated in anarea that is specifically cooled byinnovative heat dissipation.

Measurements taken at customershave, in comparison to competitivemachine concepts, confirmed en-ergy consumption at least 10 %lower.

The longest machine offers flex-ibility with independent sidesWith up to 540 rotors, the R 60 isthe longest rotor spinning machineon the market. With independentlyproducing machine sides, it can stillbe as flexibly operated as a shortmachine.

Producing two different yarn quali-ties on one machine could createthe risk of confusion. On the R 60this is excluded by the double tubeloaders, the two package transportbelts and the clear allocation of themachine sides on the display.

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VISIT YOUR WEBSITEwww.textileassociationindia.org

for� Advertisements on webpage Banners

� Advertisements in Journal of the Textile Association

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The 2nd International Conferenceon Textile & Apparel (ICTA)-2012was organized by Amin & JahanCorporation Ltd on 23-24 Novem-ber 2010 at the Lake Shore Hotel,Gulshan, Dhaka. This convention isthe biggest platform for presentingresearch papers and innovations onTextile and Apparel in Bangladesh.The conference was segmented inseveral technical and strategic ses-sions with the theme of EfficientUse of Resources in Textile andApparel. The two days-long con-ferences were attended by re-nowned industrials, academician,freelancer researchers and expertsfrom home and abroad. Attendedparticipants showed special inter-est in honorary conference speaker,renowned fashion designer 'BibiRussell'. In the closing session, theconference awarded the first threebest participants of the 3rdsesson

of Textile Talent Hunt (TTH 2012).TTH is another program of Amin&Jahan Corporation Ltd to searchout best prospective textile gradu-ates in the field of research. Mr.John T Smith, International Coordi-nator & Long Term Advisor ofUNIDO-BEST program summedthe conference up before the clos-ing session. ICTA 2012 has beensupported by BEST programUNIDO too. This report will sum-marize the key findings of the con-ference even though all the pre-sentations are available atwww.icta.textiletoday.com.bd andall papers have been published alongwith 'Bangladesh Textile Today',(www.textiletodaybd.com) Novem-ber 2012 issue. The conference waspresented by Bangladesh TextileToday, in association withBangladesh University of Textiles,The Textile Institute UK and TheTextile Association (India).

Bangladesh is The Crux of theSurprise! Professor Dr. NitaiChandra Sutradhar, honorable ViceChancellor, Bangladesh Universityof Textiles (BUTex) inauguratedthe conference with a special noteon the necessity of the such Inter-national Conference. He addressedthe burning issues in the textile andapparel industry of Bangladesh andurged all the stakeholders of theindustries to take all possible ac-tions to improve valuable naturalresource utilization.

Prof. Dr. Nitai Chandra Sutradhar,Vice Chancellor, Bangladesh Univer-sity of Textiles, declared the confer-ence open as special guest of the open-ing ceremony.He urged all to takecare surrounding environment of thefactories

Renowned speakers from homeand abroad delivered their academicfindings, research findings, innova-tions, solutions of problems throughtheir expertise through their presen-tations. In the welcome speechProf. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan,Member Secretary, ICTA 2012Review Committee, Pro-VC,BGMEA University of Fashion &Technology, thanked all for joiningthe conference. He stressed thatwe can already some impact of our1st International Conference onTextile and Apparel, ICTA 2010 inthe industry and we hope that the2nd one will be more beneficiaryfor all. Engr. Md. Shamsuzzaman,Director, Bangladesh KnitwearManufacturers and Exporters As-

ICTA 2012 Ends with Resolutions for'Efficient use of Resources

in Textiles Production'

Guests are seen on the stage at the opening ceremony of ICTA 2012. Fromleft to right Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan, Member Secretary, ICTA 2012Review Committee, Pro-VC, BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology,Engr. Md. Shamsuzzaman, Director, Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturersand Exporters Association (BKMEA), Professor Dr. Nitai ChandraSutradhar, Vice Chancellor, Bangladesh University of Textiles, RebeccaUnsworth, Director of Professional Affairs, The Textile Institute, Dr. AnilGupta, National Vice President, Textile Association India (TAI), John T.Smith, International Coordinator/Long Term Advisor, UNIDO-BEST Pro-gram, and A S M Tareq Amin, Editor & Publisher, Bangladesh TextileToday

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sociation (BKMEA), while speak-ing as special guest on the occa-sion articulated the importance ofvalue addition by doing new fabricdevelopment. He uttered his will-ingness to organize more knowl-edge and idea sharing programsunder his scope in BKMEA. Hementioned that currentlyBangladesh has abundant of expertsto lead this industry hence now wedon't need any foreign experts towork here in Bangladesh rather weneed such conferences more. ASMTareq Amin, ICTA 2012 Organiz-ing Committee Secretary General,as the first presenter on the dias tointroduce the theme of the confer-ence 'Efficient Use of Resourcesin Textile and Apparel' under dis-cussion and showed current pic-tures of natural resources use inBangladeshi textile factories. He putmore emphasis on the uses ofmodern technologies, processes andmethods to ensure efficient andeffective use of non-renewablenatural resources like gas, water,and power. Sustainable industry canbe developed only with efficientand effective use of the resourcesand this can ensure a better life forthe families of more than 5 millionpeople who are working in thistextile and apparel industrial chain.

A S M Tareq Amin, Editor & Pub-lisher, Bangladesh Textile Today andManaging Director of Amin & JahanCorporation Ltd. (A&J) introducedthe theme of the conference & put upthe agenda of discussion for the twoday long program. He informed that

A&J has a consultancy division thatcan help industries to adopt technolo-gies to improve resource efficiencies

Mr. Amin mentioned that over theyears natural gas, abundant goodquality subsoil water and hugepopulation have been Bangladesh'score competencies but now in achanged local scenario these hasbecome core challenges along withother challenges rightly summed upin McKinsey and co.'s report. Heurged the present audiences in theconferences to keep continue dis-cussion and find possible solutionof these challenges. He reiteratedthat efficient use of raw materials,natural resources, ensuring quality,adding value in products and ser-vices as well as decreasing envi-ronment footprint only can guaran-tee sustainable textile and apparelsector in Bangladesh.Mr. Aminended up revealing the reason be-hind the success of Bangladeshreferring The World Bank reportwhere it was explained that howBangladesh has been growing wellriding the hard works of garmentworkers, expatriates and the farm-ers. And that's why it has beentermed that 'Bangladesh is TheCrux of The Surprise'.

BUTex can be the real centreof excellence for Textile Edu-cationThe conference actually started

with the tea reception of the for-eign delegates at Bangladesh Uni-versity of Textiles (BUTex) on 22Nov. Around thirty internationalparticipants of the conference vis-ited all the facilities of the univer-sity. While sharing with universityvice chancellor Prof. Dr. NitaiChandra Sutradhar, most of thedelegates expressed their satisfac-tion seeing workshop and labora-tory facilities of the university. Theyechoed that the university has niceblends of textile machinery andequipments which is not that avail-able in any institute anywhere inthe world. It is to be mentionedthat Bangladesh University of Tex-tiles is one of the co-organizers ofthe conference. Foreign delegatesvisiting BUTex were from India,Mauritius, England and Scotland.Dr. Anil Gupta, National Vice Presi-dent of The Textile AssociationIndia was leading a big delegatefrom India in the conference. Dr.Gupta expressed that the univer-sity is a great resource of the coun-try and termed that it can extendall possible researches in textilespartnering with national and inter-national institutes and universitiesto ensure greater utilization of theuniversity. The reception given byBUTex brought up an opportunityfor exchanging ideas between thefaculty members of the universityand the foreign delegate.

Bangladesh University of Textile (BUTex) extended a tea reception to the inter-national delegates of ICTA 2012. The 30 member delegate had a tour to theuniversity facilities and later on university Vice Chancellor expressed his inter-est to collaborate with different international organizations to strengthen uni-versity activities

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Greener alternatives for textilesproductionRight after the inaugural session on23 November at the Lake ShoreHotel, Mr. Asif Muhammad Sami,CEO - EuroAsiatic Resources,Chairman - SS Vision Ltd & Tex-tile Consultant - Perseus Ltd.Started the introductory sessionwith his presentation on "Technol-ogy of eco-friendly Textile process-ing - A route to sustainability". Hesaid the processing of textiles shouldbe cost effective and environment-friendly. Innovative and efficientstrategies to achieve these goals areneeded. He presented a paper thatreports various problems in differ-ent stages of processing textilematerials and their 'green solutions'the alternatives by which the prob-lems can be avoided through inno-vative techniques and various mea-sures of textile 'cleanerproduction'(CP) which ensures tex-tile processing "eco-friendly", "costeffective" and "sustainable busi-ness". He also introduced ElectronBeam Method Combination withBiological System ETP, that is run-ning on test at Ecotex (a compos-ite textile industry) and they arehopeful for its success. The sludgeof the Electron Beam Method issent for laboratory test and it issaid that it can be used as fertilizerin the fields. He flashed on fulltextile processing chain and pre-sented the eco-friendly options ineach stage.

Engr. Asif Mohammad Sami showedintelligent way of applying latest tech-

nological innovations in a custom-ized way as per the necessity ofBangladeshi industry for implement-ing greener alternatives in terms ofresource usage. He has been apply-ing such techniques in a 'green' fac-tory he is currently working with

Awarding the 'Fashion for De-velopment' campaignKey attention of this year's ICTAwas Bibi Russell, the renownedfashion designer from Bangladeshwho has been fighting through hislife for the betterment of the weav-ing and other handicrafts artisansof the country working in differentspares of the country. Acknowledg-ing her outstanding contribution fordeveloping handloom sector ofBangladesh, she has been awardedwith ICTA 2012 Design Award.After receiving the crest and cer-tificate, she expressed her gratitudepolitely terming the award as astimulating one as she receives itfor the artisan she works with. Shededicated the same for the peoplewho have been making many deli-cate fabrics to build positive repu-tation of the country. Bibi Russell,the astounding model who rose tostardom in the late 70s and early80s, now works to establish a causethat is much closer to her heart"the plight of the hand woven tex-tile industries and their workers inher native Bangladesh". Bibi Russellis internationally renownedBangladeshi fashion designer, en-trepreneur and model. Even thoughher work has been recognized bymany organizations and she wasawarded in many forums, receiv-ing ICTA 2012 design award shefound it special as she was telling,it is very special for me as I re-ceiving it from the industry. Sheurged such a big 20 billion industryto consider spending a bit of it forthe handloom sectors in terms of

CSR. Because she observed thathow an enable artisan make devel-opment in rural village. An extrabit of earning for a poor weaverencourage them to send their chil-dren to the school, make themcautions on health, family planningetc.

Bibi Russell is receiving award fromthe ICTA organizers. From left to rightA S M Tareq Amin, Editor & Pub-lisher, Bangladesh Textile Today, Prof.Dr. Md. Humaun Kabir, TechnicalEditor, Bangladesh Textile Today,Principal, National Institute of Tex-tile Training Research & Design, BibiRussell and Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub NabiKhan, Member Secretary, ICTA 2012Review Committee, Pro-VC, BGMEAUniversity of Fashion & Technology

At the special honorary conferencespeech from Bibi Russell on 'Fash-ion for Development' she expressedI have been designing using ourhandloom fabric and trying to pro-mote. It is their work on which Iam trying to add value to offerthem better return. But everythingneeds money, and as I didn't foundany corporate spending here, it wasdifficult for me to promote theirproducts in global arena. She urgedthe textile and garment factoryowners to look into these designsand requested to consider replac-ing even less than 1% of their fab-ric by handloom fabric that couldchange the livelihood of around 1million handloom artisans and theirfamily and that will be the realdevelopment of the country. Shestressed the importance of 'Green'

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production as well and mentionedin all her production she keepsenvironment as priority. She elabo-rated that handloom is the sectorwhere human resources is the keyother than electrical or thermalhence the sector is not asking anyadditional capacity in gas & elec-tricity. Value addition and promo-tion of the handloom fabrics canmake real socio-economic develop-ment of the country. She termedthat the handloom weavers havemagic in their hands and they onlyneed a helping hand to flourish. Hermind-blowing speech with visualsof her efforts to promote the ruraltextiles amazed the attendants ofthe conference.

In her short but heart touchingspeech, Bibi Russell, explained whatreal development means. Being thesymbol of development she showed hersuccess stories in short vedio. Devel-opment of rural handloom artisans isher only motto and she promises towork for them until the end of her life

Garmenting cost and qualitycontrol emphasizedThen the technical session startedon efficient garmenting with pre-sentations from Mr. Razvan Ionele,Head, Gherzi Garmenting, Switzer-land and ATM Mahbubul Alam,Executive Director, Masco Group.Mr. Razvan delivered his speechon Cost controlling in Garmenting.He stated that with the currentsetup in most of the garment in-dustries, at least 2-5% cost reduc-tion is possible without any addi-tional investment only by optimiz-ing some processes. Mr. Razvan

stressed the techniques how leadtime con be reduced, how 2ndquality level can be reduced, howfabric utilization and workers effi-ciency can be increased to makegarment industries more productive,resilient and profitable. He broughtsome factories in Turkey which arefollowing their advising and there-fore controlling cost and increasingefficiency in garment assembling.Mr. Razvan showed that averageTurkish factories are around threetimes efficient than averageBangladeshi factories. But hestressed that such gap can be re-duced by adopting some changes.Later he explained some of thosetechniques. However, renownedindustrialist Mr. Engr. Md.Shamsuzzaman, Director,Bangladesh Knitwear Manufactur-ers and Exporters Association,(BKMEA) as a penal discussantshared his experience in this issueand showed that piece based wageis better for improving workers'productivity where one garmentoperator can earn as much as TK.25000 (USD 300) per month.

Razvan Ionele from Gherzi Consult-ing, Switzerland compared his casesin Bangladesh and Turkey andsummed up that Bangladeshi facto-ries can adopt necessary changes toreach to the level of Turkey. Hestressed the necessity of approachingtowards value added products, use ofautomation technologies & softwareand adopting right techniques fromproper training

Mr. ATM Mahbubul Alam gave his

presentation on Developing a sus-tainable Quality Management Cul-ture and Reducing Cost of Qualityby Implementing Modern Tech-niques of Quality Management. Mr.Mahbub has been implementing alot of experiments in Masco groupfor cost efficiency and has beensuccessful to a good extent. Heshared his experience and explainedhow to use the modern qualitymanagement techniques to reducecost and develop sustainability.

Engr. ATM Mahbubul Alam shared hissuccess story in Masco Indsutries Ltd.interms of Quality Management Sys-tem. His practical way of implement-ing quality tools in a Bangladeshigarment industry to lead it towards aquality culture can be the right ex-ample for other factories around him

A lively panel discussion and Q&Asession took place after the pre-sentations and the delegates presenttook part in the discussion with theirqueries and clarifications on therespective topics. The first day ofICTA-2012 ended with the confer-ence dinner after the long techni-cal session on efficient garmenting.The panel was moderated by Prof.Dr. Md. Saifur Rahman, Chairman,Department of Textile Engineering,Green University of Bangladesh. Aspanel discussant speeches weregiven by Engr. Md. Shamsuzzaman,Director, Bangladesh KnitwearManufacturers and Exporters As-sociation, BKMEA, Engr. ShafiqurRahman, Managing Director, HamsGroup.

Efficient dyeing & finishing of

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textilesThe second day started with an-other technical session on efficientdyeing & finishing. Mr. Jim parkstarted the session who is a re-nowned Color Scientist, C. Col.FSDC, C. Text. FTI. He presentedon "Recent trends and issues of Hi-tech Wet processing". He intro-duced the audience with the newconcepts in wet processing like theJust in time (JIT), Right first time(RFT), Quick response (QR). Heemphasized on blind dyeing and costcomparison of it with the typicaldyeing method. Jim park also intro-duced other automation technolo-gies that can really change thedyeing process scenario all over.But he also opined that the newtechnologies like fluid dyeing, blinddyeing will need a strong technicalback up and laboratory support asthe nerve center.

Vateran textile colorist Jim park an-swered questions alongside his com-prehensive presentation and won-dered why blind dyeing will not bepossible to do? He shared his experi-ence to explain how proper use oftechnology can make it very easy forthe industries even in Bangladesh

Mr. Amanur Rahman, ExecutiveDirector, Dysinchem presented onTesting for color fastness to Lightof Textiles. His presentation wason the new testing methods of fab-ric for color fastness to light. Hispresentation was followed by atechnical presentation from Intertekby Neyamul Hasan. He introducedwith the harmful substances thatare widely used in the textile pro-

cesses. Azo dyes disperse dyes,formaldehyde, phenols, organotin,PVC, phthalates, nickel, lead all ofthem have a hazardous effect tothe environment and human healthhence these are restricted in dif-ferent markets. He stressed theregulations on these harmful chemi-cals along with suggesting possiblesources of such chemicals howthese can come into textiles. DanielCarreras Monros was present fromAsutex, Spain to deliver theirspeech on 'low temperature bleach-ing (LTB) processes. Less waterconsumption, less energy expenses,less processing time and greenchemicals, this is the way of effi-cient dyeing he stated. There arethree products involved in the LTBprocess. All of them developed intheir R&D department. The syner-getic combination of three productsensures the maximum efficiency ingettings the same whiteness degreeas if it is produced according to aconventional technique and also theideal hydrofility necessary to carryout any other textile process with-out a special care. Only a 30' treat-ment at 750C is needed to carryout the bleaching process. De-creasing bleaching temperaturefrom 980C to 750C involves lessfuel consumption, this fact supposesless co2 rates released to the at-mosphere. It is to be mentioned thatIntertek, Austex and DysinChemare key sponsors of ICTA 2012.

Amanur Rahman stressed proper tech-nology for light fastness testing andguided how material performance forthat can be improved

Neyamul Hasan from Intertek ex-plained harmful impacts of restrictedchemicals on human health and ecol-ogy along with the suggestions howto avoid those in the textile products

Daniel Carreras Monros (standing)from Asutex explained how bleachingtemperature can be reduced to 75 de-gree C by using their technology main-taining all required quality param-eters. The panel for the session 'effi-cient use of resources in dyeing &finishing' was comprised of (right toleft) Mr. V.D. Zope, The Textile Asso-ciation (India), Engr. Ehsanul KarimKaiser, Executive Director, EsquireKnit Composite Ltd, Engr. Syed IsmailHossain, Country Manager-Bangladesh, Huntsman Singapore(Pte) Ltd. Sitting left most moderatorof the session Dr. Md. Humaun Kabir,Principal, NITTRAD

Efficient use of materials & utili-tiesThe last technical session of theconference was on efficient use ofUtilities & Materials that startedwith the presentation on "EnergyEfficiency & Cost Savings" byMohammed Zahin Rahman, Envi-ronmental Advisor, PSES, GIZ. Hetalked about the pilot projects takenby GIZ to help the textile & gar-ment industry cope up with the en-ergy shortage. The objective of theEnergy Saving initiative project wasthe Promotion of energy efficiency

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in the RMG and textile sector inBangladesh by training and coach-ing energy service providers, en-ergy managers and making factoryowners and decision makers awareon the advantages of energy effi-ciency. The result of the pilotproject was great in energy saving.It is expected to save up to 40%energy savings by implementing theprescribed action plan. GIZ havealready trained 174 technical staffof factories and also 5 service pro-viders.

Mohammad Zahin Rahman, presentedGIZ's activities in promoting andimplementing energy efiiciency in tex-tile & garment industry. Alongsidemonetary gain of the participatingfactories the project has created localexperts in energy auditing that ishelping the sector in a great deal

The next presenter was Mrs. A.Vaidya Soocheta, Textile Technol-ogy Department, Faculty of Engi-neering, University of Mauritius.Her presentation was on "Sustain-able Product Development using'Pandanus utilis' Leaf Fiber" wasvery interesting. Pandanus utilisplant, commonly known as 'Vacoas'in Mauritius, demonstrates a poten-tial as a tangible textile fibre. Re-search findings present endlesspossibilities for its textile applica-tions all of which are just waitingto be harnessed. She informed thatcurrently the leaves of this plantfind limited application for makingbaskets, wall hanging and otherdecorative items but research isgoing on if it can be used as atextile fibre to produce fabric. She

carried out study of the structureand physical properties such asmorphological characterization, den-sity, their mechanical behaviour intensile tests, which states that it iscompetitive as a textile fibre.

Mrs. Vaidya Soocheta research onusing 'Pandanus utilis' for makingtextile fibre got appreciations. She re-ceived some comments and suggestionsfor further research from the audience& panel

Jainal Abedin Jibon presented howBangladeshi industries are loosingsteam energy and suggested possiblesolutions. Proper insulation, conden-sate recovery and heat recovery frompossible places are the keysThe last presenter of the technicalsession was by Md. Jainal AbedinJibon, Steam Engineer, ForbesMarshall Pvt. Ltd. on "Efficient Useof Steam Energy in Textile Pro-duction". Forbes Marshall is an ISO9001 company specializing in theField of Steam Engineering & Con-trol Instrumentation. They have anenergy audit division having exper-tise in specific fields. ForbesMarshall has conducted over 100detailed energy audits across theindustry covering each and everyprocess including dyeing units,washing units, denim plants etc. Asper the presentation in each of theiraudits they identified the opportu-nity for savings ranging from 20%to 30%. Mr. Jibon explained aboutvarious issues regarding the boiler

efficiency which are normally ne-glected by the industry people butcan be a huge resource saver iftaken in consideration.

Focus resource efficiency andvalue addition in your strategyThe last session of the 2nd ICTA-2012 was the strategic sessionwhere Dr. Anil Gupta, NationalVice President, Textile AssociationIndia (TAI) and Mr. John T Smithgave their speeches. Dr. Anil Guptaappreciated Bangladesh's effortwhich has made the country the2nd largest apparel exporter of theworld. He also revealed the TAI'score objectives which were to pro-mote the use of Scientific Knowl-edge in textiles, from fibers to fash-ion, to implement programs of con-tinued education in textile technol-ogy and management and to helpmembers acquire textile qualifica-tions towards improved job perfor-mance. He revealed that textilessupply chain strategy is beingchanged over recent times. Chinais no more buying fiber from Indiarather they are buying a lot of yarn.Indian spinning industry is boomingonce again now while he elaboratedalso that future may be a bit diffi-cult for Bangladesh to get cottonfibers as well. Dr. Gupta, suggestedBangladesh to keep that in mindand make the strategy accordingly.Focusing more towards syntheticfibers can be an approach. Dutyfree access of Bangladeshi gar-ments has opened a new era toBangladesh to grab he mentioned.

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Nothing can stop the manwith the right mental attitudefrom achieving his goal;nothing on earth can help theman with the wrong mentalattitude.

-Thomas Jefferson

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Dr. Anil Gupta was leading a 21 mem-bers delegate from India to ICTA 2012.Purpose of which has been well ex-plained in his speech that addressedthe importance of mutual cooperation.He rightly placed Bangladesh's futurementioning "The years 2013 & 2014will be a determining period to grabthe export orders shifting from China,the largest exporter of apparels glo-bally, as countries like Bangladesh,Vietnam, Indonesia and Cambodia arelikely to be benefited." He added that"2013 & 2014 will bring a respite tothe Indian consumer reeling understeep hike of garment prices. WithIndia likely to liberalise apparel im-ports from Bangladesh, cotton gar-ments, that pinched consumers with a35% rise in a year, might suddenlylook cheaper if supplies from theneighbourhood, priced at least 20%lower, flood the retail shelves in In-dia."

John T Smith tried to put up the ca-pacity & opportunities Bangladeshhas. Workers efficiency increment andnecessity of more 'Product Design,CAD/CAM, ERP, Quality & ValueAddition' have been stressed to offermore to the workers of this industry.Value added use of natural resourceslike Jute, Gas, Water and Man Powercapped a vital part of his recommen-dationsThe last but a very lively presenta-tion was from Mr. John T Smith on"Bangladesh - Strategic Opportuni-

ties & Planning for the Future". Mr.John T. Smith is Comp TI, CTex,FTI, CMC, MIMC, InternationalCoordinator / Long Term Adviser,Textiles and RMG, UNIDO - BESTprogram & Chairman, InternationalEvents, The Textile Institute. Herevealed the facts about Bangladeshtextile & garment industry andpointed out actually where thecountry is now. He brought withhim the McKinsey report andpointed out the important particu-lars that the country needs to em-phasize on if she is to capture theupcoming opportunities. The laborproductivity of Bangladesh garmentindustry is only 77% (if China in100%) which can be an area ofmajor improvement. He also talkedabout the SWOT analysis ofBangladesh textile & garment in-dustry done by Mckinsey company.He pointed out the new opportuni-ties that Bangladesh can look forwith more effective production,more CAD/CAM, more designgroups, more fast response/ERP,more integrated product design andmore mix & match. Literate andeducated workforce will be crucialaccording to him. He included thatmost of the giant apparel buyer'snext potential sourcing destinationis Bangladesh, so the industry mustconsider the major issues regard-ing the challenges of growth. Build-ing infrastructure, improving gov-

ernance & administration, extend-ing cooperation's, changing philoso-phies etc. will remain the key is-sues for Bangladesh to bag enor-mous opportunities that globe isoffering to her. Mr. Smith also fore-casted the future industry andmentioned that the country shouldfocus; shift from knitwear to Wo-ven items, many products from fewinputs, upgraded service level(product designing to ticketing),comprehensive integrated manufac-turing etc. may be the expectedtrends. He said, China dominatedup to 2010 but the story will changeand good times are coming forBangladesh textile and garmentindustry if the government, theentrepreneurs and also the buyerscan make a good mix.

Mr. John T Smith's presentation wasfollowed by the award giving andclosing ceremony. Awards weregiven to the winners of the TextileTalent Hunt 2012. Memorandumswere also exchanged between dif-ferent institutions and associations.The closing ceremony was gar-landed with speeches from Md.Enayet Hossain, Secretary General,ITET, Mr. Faruque Hassan, VicePresident, BGMEA, Mr. ASMTareq Amin, Managing Director,Amin & Jahan Corp. Ltd. And Md.Ashraful Moqbul, Senior Secretary,Ministry of Textiles and Jute, GoB.

On the closing ceremony dias, TTH 2012 winners are standing behind thedistinguished guests

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On the occasion of Diamond Jubi-lee Celebrations of The TextileAssociation (India), Mumbai Unit,the 10th International & 68th AllIndia Textile Conference was or-ganized by TAI, Mumbai Unitjointly with Central Office on 30thNovember & 1st December 2012,Hotel ITC Maratha, Sahara,Andheri (E), Mumbai - 400 099.The theme of the Conference was"World Textiles - Challenges to-wards Excellence".

Mr. C. Bose, President of TAI,Mumbai Unit welcomed the gath-ering and briefed about the themeof the Conference.

Mr. D. R. Mehta, National Presi-dent, TAI in his presidential addresssaid that Indian textile industry isfacing several challenges in termsof quality and productivity andthese need to be addressed toachieve the goals. In view of this,the current conference is focusingthese issues.

Mr. V. C. Gupte, Chairman, TAI,Mumbai Unit briefed about theconference. He informed that therehas been total evolution of globaltextile industry ever since the quotaregime ended in 1995. Every 3-4years have seen major changes inhow the textile manufacturingshifted from one set of countries tothe other. Initially, US & Europetextile business moved to China,India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, SriLanka & other Asian Countries, somuch so that Bangladesh evenovertook India in terms of exportsdue to the special status. The fo-cus further moved to African coun-

10th International & 68th All India Textile ConferenceJointly organized by The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit

& Central Office30th November & 1st December 2012, Hotel ITC Maratha, Sahar,Andheri (E), Mumbai - 400 099

tries and now Burma is becominga hot spot for textile processing, astextile business is not so sustain-able in many of these countries.There are no more advantages ofcheap labour and other resources,like power & water, which arealmost becoming on par with US& Europe. The strict regulationson pollution norms, child labors etc.are now observed in many coun-tries, including India as major chal-lenges. The main question iswhether the global textile industrywill survive all these challenges andemerge with excellence. There aremany other challenges facing theTextile Industry. Increase in theoil price is changing the logistic costevery day. Textile Industry is head-ing for a situation where the costsare increasing every day. Apartfrom this, the fluctuation in thecurrency is making businessunviable. This conference will at-tempt to create and combined at-

tempt of handling many issues,which are very critical for the sur-vival of textile industry. However,the fact is that the textile industrywill survive and remain in demandso long the mankind exists. In thispursuit, TAI provides this forum tochurn the issues to develop thestrategies to face challenges.

Mr. Arvind Sinha, Advisor of theConference said that textile busi-ness in India needs to be addressedin the global perspectives and henceit is important to understand thedevelopments that are taking placein producer and importing countries.It is needless to emphasize that therole of developing economies likeBRICS in the economic and com-merce development.

The Textile Association (India)conferred the Honorary Member-ship on Mr. Dilip Jiwrajka, Manag-ing Director, Alok Industries Lim-

Dignitaries on Dais (L to R): Mr. R. G. Malvankar, Vice Chairman, TAI, MumbaiUnit, Mr. V. C. Gupte, Chairman, TAI, Mumbai Unit, Mr. Rajesh Balakrishnan,Vice President, TAI, Mumbai Unit, Dr. P. R. Roy, Past President, TAI, Mr. C. Bose,President, TAI, Mumbai Unit, Mr. Dilip Jiwrajka, Managing Director, AlokIndustries Ltd., Mr. D. R. Mehta, National President, TAI, Chief Guest Mr. A. B.Joshi, Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, Mr. R. D. Udeshi,President - Polyester Chain, Reliance Industries Ltd., Mr. R. S. Bachkaniwala,Chairman, India ITME Society, Dr. Anil Gupta, National Vice President, TAI, Mr.K. D. Sanghvi, Chairman, TAI, Mr. Arvind Sinha, Conference Advisor, and Mr.V. D. Zope, Hon. Gen. Secretary, TAI.

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ited for his valuable Contribution tothe textile industry. Mr. K. L.Vidurashwatha was awarded fel-low of Textile Association (FTA)and Mr. V. C. Gupte, Chairman,TAI, Mumbai Unit was awardedService Gold Medal. Mr. SudhishAggarwala of TAI, Delhi Unit andMr. H. S. Patel of TAI, AhmedabadUnit were awarded Service Me-mentos for their meritorious servicesto the Textile Association.

The Industrial Excellence Awardwas conferred on Mr. R. K. Vij,President, TAI, Delhi Unit. TheTAI, Ahmedabad Unit received theBest Unit Trophy from the groupof larger units third time consecu-tively.

The book "Fundamentals and Ad-vances in Knitting Technology"written by Mr. Sadhan ChandraRay, NIRJAFT, Kolkata was se-lected for Best Technical BookAward sponsored by Century Tex-tiles & Industries Ltd..

Mr. Dilip Jiwrajka, Managing Di-rector, Alok Industries Ltd. thankedthe TAI for conferring the Honor-ary Membership and said that it wasa emotional moment for him. In hisaddress, he reiterated that Indiaremains in the forefront in textiles.He listed the key issues for achiev-ing excellence as innovation, Eco-friendliness, social compliance, Skilldevelopment to suit to the level oftechnology, and R&D. Some ofmajor concern mentioned to achievethe desired results is currency fluc-tuation, raising interest rates, en-ergy crisis and the cost. Positiveaspects of Indian scenario arelower rate of increase in labour costas compared to some of the othergrowing economies.

Mr. R. D. Udeshi, President -

Polyester Chain, Reliance IndustriesLtd. delivered the keynote address.He began his address with rise inoil prices and fluctuation in cottonprices. World demand of textile fi-bers is around 84-85 million tonsand major natural fiber source-cotton production is 25-27 milliontons. India is following China interms of fiber production. However,the gap is quite significant. In spiteof rising price of oil, price of poly-ester fiber has been stable and thepolyester industry has absorbed allthe volatile ingredients in its opera-tion. He reiterated that polyesterremains as most affordable fiber.In terms of buying trends, he ex-pressed the noticeable change interms of family buying and buyingfor experience rather than occa-sional purchase.

He further pointed out the youngergeneration being demanding in bothquality and price. Man made tex-tile fibers apart from being used inapparels are being used in techni-cal and industrial applications suchas geo-textiles, protective textilesetc.

In view of various facets of thedevelopments, he reiterated thattechnology is the key factor forgrowth. Another important aspectof the growth towards excellenceis sustainability factor, which isachieved through the recycling.Addressing this, he emphasized therole of M/S Reliance industries asthe world leader in polyester fibermanufacture in terms of address-ing the integrated chain as alsostrategically manufacture recycledpolyester fibers. He concluded say-ing that Reliance Industries is cur-rently manufacturing 2.4 milliontons of polyester and soon addinganother 1,2 million tons capacity tomeet the growing demand.

Mr. Rajnikant S. Bachkaniwala,Chairman, India ITME Societywhile addressing the gathering,emphasized the role of textile ma-chineries and its interface in thetechnology up-gradation. He washappy that the conference is heldat a time when 9th ITME exhibi-tion is being held from 2nd Decem-ber to 7th December 2012 in theBombay Exhibition Centre. He in-formed that there has been over-whelming response for the exhibi-tion with 820 participants from 50countries showcasing their productsand providing an opportunity to thetextile entrepreneurship to avail ofthe opportunity to interface in theirjourney towards excellence.

Mr. A. B. Joshi, Textile Commis-sioner, Ministry of Textiles, Govt.of India delivered the inauguraladdress. He emphasized the roleof textile industry in India and in-formed that value addition is key toachieve excellence. Today 97% ofthe textile production is under SMEsand they have limitation of achiev-ing the required Brand and R&D.He listed the key drives to achieveexcellence as Quality, Design,Technology and high value addedproducts to show case. It is thetime to carry out the activities in asmart way with the backup of in-formation technology. He assuredthe industry that government iscommitted to create all requiredpolicy support and act as enablerto achieve innovation, R&D, HRDand catalze sustained growth incontext of global competition. In thiscontext, he listed various schemesbeing implemented by the govern-ment. These include TUFs, Tech-nology Mission for Technical Tex-tiles, Integrated Textiles Park andSpecial project on use of Geo-tex-tiles and Agri-textiles in North East-ern States and ISDS to create

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skilled man power. He further in-formed that 12th plan program willbe released in few months andmajor emphasis is to support de-centralized weaving sector.

Chief Guest Mr. A. B. Joshi, TextileCommissioner, Min. of Textiles, Govt.of India addressing the gathering

Mrs. Jaya Row, Founder ofVedanta Vision was the Chief Guestat the Valedictory Session. She saidin her address that leadership is keyfor achieving excellence in everywalk of life including industrial de-velopment.

In all 16 papers from eminentSpeakers from India & abroad werepresented during the conference.Some of the high lights of eachsession are as follows.

Session - 1 : "Global Textile Situ-ation & Asian Countries"

"Textile Potential & Scenario inBRIC Countries" by Mr. ArvindSinha, Chief Advisor & CEO, Busi-ness Advisors Group, Global Sourc-ing Company.

"Asian Textile Scenario" by Dr.Mirza Ikhtiar Baig, Chairman, BaigGroup, Industrialist and FederalAdvisor on Textiles to Govt. ofPakistan

"Can we do textile projects faster?"by Mr. Bhaskar Ranjan Das, SalesDirector, Realization TechnologiesIndia Pvt. Ltd.

Session - 2 : "Current Growth &Developments in Textile Machin-ery"

"Innovative Process Control fordyeing & finishing industry to en-sure highest efficiency to reduceenergy and resources input" by Mr.Thomas Hopfl, Sales Director,Mahlo.

"One-stop green Innovation - Thecomplete Finishing Treatment" byMr. Adam Jozwik, Sales Director,Fong's Europe GmbH & Mr. PeterTolksdorf, Head of Product Man-agement for Dyeing and Applica-tion, A. Monforts.

"Role & Effectiveness of Research& Development in a Medium SizedTextile Mill" by Mr. PeterStahlecker, Managing Director,Business Group Premium TextileComponents, Spindelfabrik SuessenGmbH, Germany

"Managing water resources in theTextile Industry" by Mr. NeerajSrivastava, President, UEM IndiaPvt. Ltd.

Session - 3 : "Role of Banks &financial Institutions in Textile In-dustry / Textile Park"

"Innovative Financing Solutions forTextile Sector" by Mr. SunilSanghai, Managing Director &Head of Global Banking, HSBCBank.

"Textile Parks and other infrastruc-ture" by Mr. Avinash Mayekar,Managing Director & CEO, SuvinAdvisors Pvt. Ltd.

"Role of Banks & Financial Insti-tutions in Textile Industry" by Mr.Umesh Jain, Director, JawaharlalNehru Institute of Banking & Fi-

nance (JNIBF).

"Impact of Currency Fluctuation"by Mr. V. Rajagopal, Ex-ChiefDealer, ICICI Bank and KotakMahindra Bank.

Session - 4 : "Fibre - Manmade& Natural"

"Polyester Staple Fibre" by Mr.Gunjan Sharma, Business Head forStaple Fibre (Polyester Sector),Reliance Industries Ltd.

"Regenerated Cellulose Fibre" byMr. Manohar Samuel, Jt. President(Strategic Marketing), Grasim In-dustries Ltd.

"New Organic Fibre Gongura -Fibre of the Future" by Mr.Manohar Parchure, ProgressiveFarmer.

"MicroModal by Edelweiss Tech-nology" by Mr. T. Murugan, Gen-eral Manager Sales & Marketing,Lenzing AG, India.

"Polyester - The Key Gamechanger in Textiles" by Mr. J.Raghunath, Business Head (Poly-ester Textiles Yarn), Reliance In-dustries Ltd.

All the Papers received very highresponse from the participants.

There were two sessions of thePanel Discussions. The theme ofthe first Panel Discussion Sessionwas "Denim Industry in India"which was moderated by Mr.Avinash Mayekar, Managing Direc-tor & CEO, Suvin Advisors Pvt.Ltd. The Panel comprised Mr.Aamir Akhtar, CEO - Denim (Fab-rics), Arvind Limited, Mr. S. N.Kuchhal, Director, Etco Denim Pvt.Ltd., Dr. Mirza Ikhtiar Baig, Chair-

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man, Baig Group, Industrialist andFederal Advisor on Textiles to Govt.of Pakistan and Mr. M. D.Kanitkar, Werner International.

The second Panel Discussion Ses-sion was moderated by Mr. AshishAmin, Ex. CEO, S. Kumars. Thetheme of this Panel Discussionsession was "Role of Supply ChainManagement in Textile Industry".The panel comprised of Mr.Manohar Samuel, Jt. President(Strategic Marketing), Grasim In-dustries Ltd., Mr. Ashish Dhir,Managing Partner, WISEDGE Con-sulting, Dr. J. Arthur Prem, Ex.Commissioner of Customs, Mr.Vilas Gharat, Managing Director,Gharat & Associates.

There was good interaction be-tween participants, who posed manyquestions to panel members andwere answered very promptly bythe panel members. Both the ses-sions of panel discussions were veryinteresting and memorable. Thedelegates were intensely involvedtill the last session to take advan-tage of the panel discussion.

In the last session Dr. P. R. Roy,Management Consultant (Textiles)gave his impressions about theconference, and brought out someof the key factors to achieve ex-cellence in the competitive world.

The two-day Conference was at-tended by over 500 participants andit was a grand success. The orga-nizers of the conference werehappy to note that the objectives ofthe All India Textile Conference arefully achieved.

Mr. R. G. Malvankar, Vice Chair-man, TAI, Mumbai Unit proposedvote of thanks.

Mr. Dilip Jiwrajka, Managing Direc-tor, Alok Industries Ltd. receiving theHonorary Membership by the handsof Chief Guest, Mr. A. B. Joshi, TextileCommissioner, Ministry of Textiles,Govt. of India

Mr. K. L. Vidurashwatha receiving theHon. F.T.A. by the hands of Chief Guest,Mr. A. B. Joshi, Textile Commissioner,Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India

Mr. V. C. Gupte, Chairman, TAI,Mumbai Unit receiving the ServiceGold Medal by the hands of ChiefGuest, Mr. A. B. Joshi, Textile Com-missioner, Ministry of Textiles, Govt.of India

Mr. T. L. Patel receiving the ServiceMemento on behalf of the Mr. H. S.Patel of TAI, Ahmedabad Unit by thehands of Chief Guest, Mr. A. B. Joshi,Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Tex-tiles, Govt. of India

Mr. Sudhish Aggarwala of TAI, DelhiUnit receiving the Service Mementoby the hands of Chief Guest, Mr. A. B.Joshi, Textile Commissioner, Ministryof Textiles, Govt. of India

Mr. R. K. Vij, President, TAI, DelhiUnit receiving the Industrial Excel-lence Award by the hands of ChiefGuest, Mr. A. B. Joshi, Textile Com-missioner, Ministry of Textiles, Govt.of India

The Office Bearers & representativesof TAI, Ahmedabadb Unit receivingthe Best Unit Trophy in Larger Unitcategory by the hands of Chief Guest,Mr. A. B. Joshi, Textile Commissioner,Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India.

Dignitaries Sitting in the Auditorium

The confereace was a grandsucces.

.

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DKTE'S Textile & EngineeringInstitute, Ichalkaranji (DKTE) andAssociation of Italian Textile Ma-chinery Manufacturers (ACIMIT)have signed an agreement for theestablishment of an Italian TrainingCentre at Ichalkaranji for the ben-efit of Textile Sector in India.

The project includes; 1.providing onfree basis use of textile machineryby interested manufacturers for amaximum period of 3 years, 2.training activities provided by thesame Italian Textile machinerycompanies adhering to the initiative,3. distribution of ACIMIT's digitaltechnology manual containing Ital-ian state-of-the-art technology and4. awarding of scholarships to threestudents selected by a committeeof DKTE'S faculty in order to helpthem to pursue their professionaltraining.

The project will be coordinated bya steering committee representingACIMIT, which agrees to partici-pate in all engagements held bothin Italy and India, and an Indiancounterpart, Raretech, which willbe responsible for coordinating allonsite activities.

The technology training center is apart of a larger initiative calledMachines Italia, financed by theMinistry for Economic Develop-ment (MiSE), which has entrusted

Training Center at DKTE'S Textile &Engineering Institute

its organization to Federmacchine(the Federation of Italian Manufac-turers of Capital Equipment). Ma-chines Italia in India aims to lendits support to the internationaliza-tion efforts of companies in thesector, in one of the world's mostintensely developed industrial areas.

"Through this technology trainingcentre," ACIMIT's President Mr.Sandro Salmoiraghi summarized"ACIMIT intends to strengthen theprofitable relationship which alreadyexists with India's textile industry".The market in India is currently thethird most important destination forour exports (over the first half of2012, we exported 58 million eurosworth of machinery). "This initia-tive aims to increase everyone'sawareness of the important synergywith the territory's textile manufac-turers, represented by the world ofacademia. The benefits in terms ofimage will be felt not just by indi-vidual participating Italian busi-nesses supplying machinery, but forthe whole of Italy's textile sector."

The General Director for Interna-tionalization Policies and the Pro-motion of Exchanges of MiSE,Pietro Celi, expressed satisfactionfor the realization of the Technol-ogy Center.

The Member of Governing Councilof DKTE'S Textile & EngineeringInstitute & Former Minister ofTextiles, Mr. Prakash Awade haspromised all the help & support forthe successful implementation ofthe project & expressed hope thatthis Training Centre equipped withstate of the art Italian Textile Ma-chinery will go a long way in ca-

tering to the needs of the TextileIndustry in India & Strengtheningthe ties between the two countriesItaly & India.

General information on Italiantextile machinery industry andACIMIT

ACIMIT represents an industrialsector comprising around 300 com-panies (employing close to 12,400people) and producing machineryfor an overall value of about 2.7billion euros, with exports amount-ing to 80% of total sales. The qual-ity of Italian textile technology isevidenced by the high number ofcountries in which Italian machin-ery is sold: around 130 countriesworldwide.

Creativity, technology, reliability andquality are the characteristics whichhave made Italy a global leader inthe manufacturing of textile machin-ery.

General information on theMinistry of Economic Develop-mentThe authoritative administrativebody for key sectors of the Italianeconomy, both with regards to thepromotion and development of thecompetitiveness of the nation's pro-ductive system, and in the harmo-nization and monitoring of the do-mestic market.General Directorate for Internation-alization Policies and the Promo-tion of Exchanges of MiSE is en-trusted with the task of strengthen-ing the internationalization of busi-nesses, in particular SME, as wellas promoting Made in Italy, prima-rily through: the coordination ofstakeholders operating in support ofpromotional activities abroad (in-cluding the new ICE Agency),managing the Made in Italy Fund,

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dispensing grants for promotionalinitiatives by third parties, under-taking actions to accompany busi-nesses in global markets, enhanc-ing international institutional rela-tions, conducting studies and globalmarket trend analyses.

General Information onDKTE'S Textile & EngineeringInstitute, Ichalkaranji

DKTE'S Textile & EngineeringInstitute, Ichalkaranji (DKTE),founded in 1982, by Mr. K. B.Awade, Former Industry Minister,

M.S. enjoys a unique and promi-nent place amongst the Institutionsthat are engaged in Technical, edu-cation, training, research andconsultancy. Presently it is cater-ing to Ten Undergraduateprogrammes ( Five in Textiles &Five in Engineering). Three Di-ploma programmes in Textiles, FiveP.G. programmes (Three in Textiles,Two in Engineering), Doctorateprogram in Textile Engineering andTwo Management studies pro-grams. The total student strengthof Institute is over 3200 studentsand 180 dedicated faculty engaged

in Teaching & Research activities.

The Institute has excellent infra-structure, Laboratories & work-shops equipped with latest state ofthe art machinery & equipments.The vision of the Institute has beenrealized through intense interactionwith industry through several kindsof technical and management ser-vices. By signing MoUs with over-seas universities and with Industry,the institute is all set to provide topquality education with special em-phasis on Training & Research.

Exhibitors' numbers hit newrise

INDIA ITME 2012, the 9th in theseries and the most anticipatedTextile Machinery Exhibition show-casing textile technology, machin-ery, accessories and services hasseen the exhibitor's footfall on arise compared to earlier years.

After inauguration of the exhibitionon first day, the second day beganwith the celebration of Gujarat dayfollowed by a seminar on howGujarat as a state is poised to growand contribute to the economicgrowth of the country.

The seminar included a presenta-tion by GIFTCL on how the gov-ernment of Gujarat plans to accel-erate industrial growth through itsvarious initiatives and textile policy.GIFTCL, on behalf of the Govern-ment of Gujarat, plans to build afinancial city that will help aspiringentrepreneurs to set up new busi-nesses and have a strong infra-

'INDIA ITME 2012'India's largest & Most Prestigious Textile

Technology Exhibition

structure background within thestate.

"Gujarat significantly contributes tothe growing textile industry in thecountry; 30% of the total contribu-tion to the textile industry comesfrom Gujarat alone. The state isalso an emerging hub for technicaltextiles, and has a steep growth inthis sector," said Mr. Kamal Dayani,IAS, Industries Commissioner, Gov-ernment of Gujarat.

Mr. Rajnikant Bachkaniwala, Chair-man, ITME said, "India is alsodeveloping its export machinerymarket and now exports machin-ery worth US$50 million eachmonth. This is a sizeable amountfor an industry that was almost zeroa few years back."

"In long-term, outlook is very posi-tive as GDP is growing, especiallyin countries like India and China,the GDP per capita is also increas-ing. There are also new applica-tions for textiles which will drive

demand for textile machinery", headded.

With 820+ exhibitors from 51 coun-tries, covering over 100,000 sqm.of exhibition area, 10 new countryparticipation, many delegations fromnew textile markets, eminent tech-nocrats and textile experts speak-ing at the Seminar, and 100,000visitors, this event was the largestso far India has ever hosted withthe complete exhibition space ofBombay Convention & ExhibitionCentre booked from mid-Novem-ber 2012 to December 10, 2012.

Dr. Christian Schlinder, DirectorGeneral, ITMF, Zurich, Dr. PeterDinsdale, World President, TheTextile Institute, Manchester, UK;Prof. Dr. Roshan Shishoo, Direc-tor, Shishoo Consulting AB, Swe-den; Prof. Subash Anand, Uni-versity of Bolton, UK; Dr.Malcolm Kirkup, UK; Mr. R.K.Jha, Director-in-Charge, GIFT City,Ahmedabad; Dr. ChandanChatterjee, Director, CED & GM,iNDEXTb, Gujarat; and Mr. TCARanganathan, Chairman & Manag-ing Director, Export-Import Bankof India, Mumbai were the es-

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teemed speakers at the ITMEtechnology seminar.

Indian Technology gains mo-mentum at 'INDIA ITME 2012'� The market for technical tex-

tiles is expected to reach Rs1.58 lakh crore by 2016-17

� Exim Bank urges textile indus-try to grow in organized clus-ters

INDIA ITME 2012, the 9th in theseries and the most anticipatedTextile Machinery Exhibition show-casing textile technology, machin-ery, accessories and services hasseen visitors gathering to hear howtechnical textiles are a propellantfor India's growth story and demandis growing at a robust pace.

The third day began with the notefrom Professor Roshan Shishoo,Director of Shishoo Consulting, aneminent speaker at the TechnicalSeminar quoted, "India will investUS$ 1 trillion in infrastructure inthe country over the next five years,to highlight the potential for techni-cal textiles."

"India's growing middle class, whichis expected to increase tenfold to583 million people or 41% of thetotal population by 2025, will propelthe country to become the World's

Fifth largest consumer market." headded.

Addressing the technical seminarat ITME 2012, T C ARanganathan, Chairman & MD ofExim Bank of India highlighted theareas where the bank could extendsupport to the Indian textile indus-try. He also explained that thebank's mandate is to offer loansand services such that the exportpotential of the sector gets en-hanced. He urged the textile in-dustry to grow in organized clus-ters.

The main applications in technicaltextiles like geotextiles, agrotextiles,industrial textiles, protective textiles,medical & hygiene has acknowl-edge a huge growth at ITME 2012.

Some of the spectacular devel-opment at ITME 2012 are asfollows

� Oerlikon has signed an agree-ment to divest the Natural Fi-bres and Textile ComponentsBusiness Units from its TextileSegment to the Jinsheng Groupof China. After the divestment,Oerlikon Textile will focus onthe manmade fiber business, ahigh performing segment withless cyclicality. The transac-

tion is based on a enterprisevalue of around CHF 650 mil-lion and is expected to close inQ3 2013.

� Kirloskar Toyata Textile Ma-chinery ( KTTM ), a Toyotajoint venture company, has of-ficially launched the newRX1240e Ring Spinning Frame,which is claimed to be India'slongest ring frame.

� A .T. E.'s principal Karl Mayerlaunched specifically for theIndian market a machine -Facnication Lace. This is avery interesting machine, whichproduces a completely designersarees.

� Coimbatore-based LakshmiMachine Works has launchedCard LC636 at the event.Card LC636 is designed forhigher production of up to 250kg an hour.

Mr. Rajnikant Bachkaniwala, Chair-man, ITME said, "I am happy tosee that India ITME 2012 has keptup its tradition of very high footfallof serious business visitors. Visi-tors representing all segments ofthe manufacturing chain and fromalmost all Asian Textile manufac-turing countries have convergedhere."

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PublisherTel.: 022-2446 1145, Fax: 022-2447 4971

Mobile: +91-22-9819801922E-mail: [email protected], [email protected]

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The new USTER® CLASSIMAT5 uses advanced sensor technol-ogy to detect potentially damagingoutliers

Uster, Switzerland, December 2,2012 - The new USTER®CLASSIMAT 5 is a ground-break-ing innovation, expanding the scopeof the well-known CLASSIMAT®instrument beyond traditional clas-sification - and identifying both for-eign matter and polypropylene de-fects. As part of an integrated test-ing and monitoring regime fromlaboratory to finished package, itprovides the essential frameworkfor the production of consistentquality in spun yarns.

With latest-technology sensors andclass-leading software, the newCLASSIMAT® can both measureand quantify a wider range of de-fects than ever before. It introducesautomatic identification of disturb-ing defects - known as outliers -for all fault types. This feature helpsspinners understand how to eradi-cate these defects using yarn clear-ing, so they can deliver the qualitytheir customers require.

Taking quality assurance further,USTER® CLASSIMAT 5 alsoprovides objective assessment ofquality consistency, based on test-ing and quantifying outliers in a largesample size of 200 kilometers.

First Steps to Consistent Quality

New and uniqueThe YARN BODYTM concept isnow acknowledged to be the bestapproach for identifying disturbingdefects. It was introduced with theUSTER® QUANTUM 3 yarnclearer and has proved its reliabil-ity on extensive yarn varieties.USTER® CLASSIMAT 5 showsthe YARN BODYTM alongside anumeric classification of thick andthin places. The degree of contami-nation is also profiled, showing upgraphically as a dense area forcolored foreign matter and veg-etable matter, as well as numeri-cally. For the first time, polypropy-lene defects are classified as ei-ther short or long.

Previous CLASSIMAT® genera-tions used 23 different classes, giv-ing good coverage of all detectedfaults. However, there has beenenormous progress in yarn quality- yarns have become more even,with the result that smaller defectsare now viewed as disturbing.These small faults can now bedetected and classified by theUSTER® CLASSIMAT 5, extend-ing the existing classification tableto include a total of 45 classes.

To support previous classificationstandards - well-established in yarntrading - and allow a gradual tran-sition to the latest level, USTER®CLASSIMAT 5 also converts test

values for thick and thin places tomatch earlier USTER®CLASSIMAT 3 and USTER®CLASSIMAT QUANTUMclasses.

Outlier classification - a newstandardEven a few substandard bobbinscan damage fabric appearance andseriously impact on productivity indownstream processes. Experienceshows that poor quality in only asmall percentage of a yarn lot canoften cause an entire delivery tobe rejected by the customer. Thesebobbins, containing defects outsidethe normal distribution in any faultcategory, are termed outliers. Forthe first time, they can be mea-sured and quantified in the labora-tory by USTER® CLASSIMAT 5.The outliers can then be effectivelycontrolled using yarn clearing toremove them at the winding stage,using data from USTER®CLASSIMAT 5 to optimize clearersettings.

The ultimate goal of preventingthese defects by pinpointing the rootcauses in the spinning process iscritical to ensure consistent quality.And the first step here is to mea-sure and quantify them withUSTER® CLASSIMAT 5. "Witha proper assessment of outliersusing USTER® CLASSIMAT 5,and tools to eliminate them, spin-ners have a practical and sustain-able method to ensure and verifyquality consistency", says UsterTechnologies Product ManagerSivakumar Narayanan.

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There is always a lot of discussionabout the ongoing competition be-tween cotton and synthetic fibers,which is to be expected. The twoindustries fight hard for every scrapof market share to ensure theirfuture profitability.

But the biggest threat to cotton'sfuture viability isn't rayon, nylon, oreven polyester -- it's the cell phone,education, healthcare, food andfuel.

That was the primary messagedelivered by Cotton Incorporated'sMark Messura during his presen-tation at the annual meeting of theInternational Textile ManufacturersFederation, held in Hanoi, VietnamNov. 4-6.

"Without question, the competitionbetween cotton and synthetic fibersis intense, but the real concern forall of us in the textile industry isthat people today have increasinglydiverse expenses" that eat into theirexpenditures on clothing, he said.In the United States, for example,clothing's share of total consumerspending has dropped from 5.7%in 1989, to 4.7% in 1999, to 3.5%in 2011.

At the same time, healthcare ex-penditures have grown from 5.1%to 5.3% to 6.7% during that time

period. Fuel expenditures have in-creased from 3.5% in 1989 to 5.3%in 2011, while education expendi-tures jumped from 1.3% to 2.1%during that timeframe.

While cotton and synthetic fiberswill continue to fight tooth and nailfor market share, the bigger pic-ture for cotton is the ability to ex-pand its number of uses and appli-cations.

"Between 80% and 85% of allcotton produced in the world goesinto clothing, and clothing will con-tinue dominate the end uses forcotton," he said. "But it's also usedin oil, ice cream, animal feed andconstruction materials. Textile com-panies might not be able to spincotton seed, so those applicationsdon't necessarily impact mill own-ers. But they are critically impor-tant to the economic health of cot-ton farmers, so expanding the num-ber of applications cotton can beused in will be a driving force forproduction in the future.

"The quality of cotton fiber is con-stantly changing and improvingthrough technology," Messura con-tinued. "Cotton isn't a synthetic fi-ber, but it is an enginneered fiber,and it's constantly evolving."

Meanwhile, environmental friendli-

ness and sustainability -- commonlythought of as crucial factors forconsumers when they make pur-chasing decisions -- are fundamen-tally supply chain issues, not mar-ket issues, he added.

"Cotton Incorporated researchshows that very few consumers arewilling to pay a premium for cloth-ing or home textiles that are envi-ronmentally friendly, organic, sus-tainable, recyclable or compostable,"Messura said. "About 27% of con-sumers say they put effort into find-ing environmentally friendly apparel,and that number is lower than itwas five years ago. It's not a fac-tor that's becoming more importantto consumers; it's actually becom-ing less important to them whenthey make purchasing decisions."

He was careful to point out thatthe research doesn't meansustainability isn't important ... onlythat it's a more important issue forthe supply chain than it is for con-sumers.

"People often ask: How can westrive to plant more cotton whenthe world needs more food? Well,in the future, the world is going toneed more of a lot of things! That'swhy cotton has - and will continueto - improve its production prac-tices. The industry will innovate andfind ways for cotton to require lessland, less water, less energy, andfewer chemicals to generate evenmore fiber," he said.

ITMF Annual Conference 2012 in Hanoi

Supply Chain Session: Cotton Incorporated's Messura Ad-dresses Cotton's Future in the Supply Chain

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TAI BOOK PUBLICATIONSBook your orders with:

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) - Central OfficePathare House, Next to State Bank of India,

67, Ranade Road, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028Tel.: 022-2446 11145, Fax: 022-2447 4974

Orders accepted by E-Mail: [email protected]

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Overall, capacity utilization of spin-ning mills and margins continued tobe stable and on a profitable level.However, downstream buyingbehaviour remained volatile. Financ-ing for projects is becoming increas-ingly difficult, especially in Chinaand India, leading to a generallymore challenging market environ-ment.

Outlook for 2012 adjustedRieter currently reckons in the sec-ond semester with a weaker trendin sales compared to the first se-mester. The decrease against thefirst semester is estimated atslightly above twenty percent dueto the shift of machine orders into2013, cancellations and lower com-ponent sales. Rieter expects theoperating profitability (EBIT) in thesecond semester to follow the vol-ume development and to show theeffects of a less favorable productmix. The planned investment activ-ity in growth projects and processimprovements will further reducethe operating margin (EBIT mar-gin) by around three percentagepoints. Rieter expects the operat-ing profitability to be around break-even level in the second semester2012.Rieter’s product portfoliomatches demand in AsiaThe Chinese market is generally

weaker due to locked-in raw ma-terial prices, but looking for auto-mation, upgrade in equipment andlower energy demand. In Turkey,the government incentive programhas still not yet shown large ef-fects. In the third quarter, India hasseen a pickup in investment de-mand, with northern India showingmore interest than in the southernstates. “China and India will seean increase in demand for machin-ery and components”, Erwin Stollersaid, “offering higher productivityand quality as well as lower en-ergy consumption. Both Rieter’scurrent product portfolio and itsinnovation strategy address this de-mand. With the timely execution ofour investment program 2012/2013Rieter will be ready to profit fromthese trends.” In the third quarter,a pickup in order intake in the In-dian market has been registered. Astable third-quarter order intake inChina in a difficult market confirmsthe attractiveness of Rieter’s prod-uct portfolio. Overall, Rieter man-aged to increase its order intake inthe third quarter compared to theaverage of the two previous quar-ters mainly thanks to larger ma-chinery orders. The majority ofthese orders will be delivered in2013.

Media Release Rieter Holding Ltd.

Klosterstrasse 32P.O. BoxCH-8406 WinterthurT +41 52 208 71 71F +41 52 208 70 60www.rieter.comRieter Press Release, 30 October2012 2/2Please find the Media Release atwww.rieter.com/en/rieter/media/press-releases/. You can also reg-ister at www.rieter.com to receiveour media releases regularly bye-mail. Future dates� Publication of sales figures for

the 2012 financial year: Febru-ary 5, 2013

� Results media conference andpresentation for financial ana-lysts on the 2012 annual finan-cial statements: March 21, 2013

� Annual General Meeting: April18, 2013 For further detailsplease refer to:

Rieter Holding AGRieter Management AGInvestor Relations Media RelationsJoris GröflinChief Financial OfficerT +41 52 208 70 32F +41 52 208 70 60E-mail: [email protected] SchreierCorporate CommunicationsT +41 52 208 70 32F +41 52 208 70 60E-mail: [email protected]

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Outlook for 2012 adjusted: Rieter expects in the second semesterlower sales and operating profitability at around break-even leveldue to a challenging market environment

AttentionAll Members of

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA)Please update their contact information by Sending us e-mail to update our website

[email protected], [email protected]

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Macclesfield, October 31st,2012 'V On-line quality moni-toring of POY and FDY yarnshas been well established formany years, with the mostwidely used system beingFibrevision FibreTQS. The abil-ity to eliminate faults that wouldresult in downgrades in down-stream processes provides bothsubstantial quality benefits andprocess cost reductions.

Spin finish regularity is the key toimproved quality and efficiency inboth POY and FDY production. Itis widely recognised that most SpinFinish problems are invisible toconventional testing and that laboratory testing only sees MEAN datafor very short samples.

To address this, OerlikonFibrevision have further developedtheir highly successful FibrevisionFibreTQS monitoring system andnow offer a spin finish monitoringonly system. This will identify ma-jor sources of quality problemswithin this process which are:

Short term variation seen as tran-sient faults or high CV levels which

POY DTY� Tension transient faults seen by

Fibrevision Unitens� Bulk and dye flashes in fabric� End breaks

FDY� Broken filaments in draw pro-

cess� Bulk and dye flashes in fabric

(no Fibrevision Unitens to gradeout)

� End breaks in FDY process

Spin Finish Application - The HiddenProblems in POY and FDY Production

FibreTQS SensorSpin finish sensors are fitted priorto the first godet (after the oil dis-persion jets), and measure spin fin-ish mean level, short term variationand transient faults. The sensorsare connected directly to interfaceelectronics that are located in anIP64 enclosure located behind thesensors.

The Fibrevision FibreTQS sys-tem also provides further op-erational benefits with:� Multi language PC software� MMC system allowing remote

viewing and control of all moni-tored machines

� Plant Integration facilities withboth data export and doff num-ber synchronisation

About OerlikonOerlikon (SIX: OERL) is a leadinghigh-tech industrial group specializ-ing in machine and plant engineer-ing. The company is a provider ofinnovative industrial solutions andcutting-edge technologies for tex-tile manufacturing, drive, vacuum,thin film, coating, and advancednanotechnology. A Swiss companywith a tradition going back over 100years, Oerlikon is a global playerwith more than 17 000 employeesat over 150 locations in 38 coun-tries and sales of CHF 3.6 billion in2010. In 2010 the company investedCHF 239 million in R&D, with over1 200 specialists working on futureproducts and services. In most ar-eas, the operative businesses rankeither first or second in their re-spective global markets.

About Oerlikon Textile ComponentsOerlikon Textile Components with

its well established product linesAccotex, Daytex, Fibrevision,Heberlein, Temco and Texparts isone of the world's leading suppliersof quality determining componentsfor all filament and staple fibre spin-ning applications. Highest qualityand reliability are the common char-acteristics of all products. Continu-ous development ensures thatOerlikon Textile Components willalways strengthen its leading posi-tion as the component supplier ofchoice to the textile industry.Oerlikon Textile Components withmanufacturing facilities and salesoffices in the Americas, Europe andAsia is headquartered in Switzer-land. A global network of experi-enced representatives ensuresprompt service and close contactwith our customers in spinning millsas well as with the leading machinemanufacturers. For further informa-tionvisit:www.components.oerlikontextile.comFor more information please con-tact:Jorg SpahlingerManaging Director FilamentT +49 9732 87 [email protected] J LeahHead of Sales FilamentT +44 1625 [email protected]: Picture with captionFibrevision FibreTQS monitoringsystem nowoffer a spin finish monitoring onlysystem.

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�

Texttreasure

The greatest men sometimesovershoot themselves, butthen their very mistakes areso many lessons of instruc-tion.

- Tom Browne

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At the end of the eighties, the ringspinning process underwent a re-markable renaissance. The limita-tions of the already familiar Air JetSpinning process had become ob-vious as far as the technical andtechnological application potentialand efficiency were concerned.Spinning machine manufacturersconcentrated increasingly again onimproving the ring spinning machine.The innovation process re-gainedmomentum with a speed, hard toimagine. The international exhibi-tions of the following years showedmany new features and innovationsthat still today influence the market(i.e. compact spinning).

The importance of flexibility inthe spinning mill

Yarns, as intermediate products inthe textile production chain, aresubject to ever more frequent fash-ion changes, particularly in theclothing and house-hold textilessectors. The spinner's market hastherefore become more diverse andshort-term, and has clearly devel-oped into a buyer's market. Todaymore than ever the customer de-termines yarn characteristics, yarnquality and, above all, the deliveryhe needs for his end-product.

Flexibility through moderndrafting systems

What possibilities do modern draft-ing systems offer for positivelyaffecting flexibility in ring spinning?

� Increased flexibility means thewidest possible raw materialspectrum, i.e. widest variety offiber characteristics, such aslength, count and origin, in or-der to be able to produce with-out costly machinery adaptationfor an example

Texparts PK 2630 SEH - The innovation of thedrafting system

� Problem-free use of the larg-est possible fiber mass in draft-ing

� Rapid adaptation of all essen-tial drafting parameters to allthe technological requirementsof the fiber material to be pro-cessed in order to obtain maxi-mum product quality

� Reduction of setting-up timeand the associated setting-upcosts

� Shortening of material flowtime throughout the entire spin-ning mill in order to reduce largecapital tie-up caused by exces-sive circulating capacity and tounnecessarily long deliverytimes.

In addition to all of this, comes therequirement for the simplest pos-sible operation of all drafting sys-tem components.

The required profile for moderndrafting systems deriving from thisis shown in Figure 1. The two mostimportant features, which allowreacting most effectively to spin-ning requirements are, the problem-free use of high total drafts andthe possible use of adequately loadpressures. Above and beyond that,the fitting of the weighting arm to

the ring spinning machine, the set-ting and the possibility of inter-changeability of all drafting com-ponents must be quick and easy toensure minimum downtime. Ergo-nomically designed operating ele-ments are also important prerequi-sites for meeting spinning require-ments.

Figure 1: Requirement profile formodern drafting systems

With the new drafting systems forshort-staple ring frames, the PK2600 Series, Oerlikon Textile Com-ponents has taken all the abovementioned factors into considerationduring development, and havebrought more flexibility into thefunction and fitting of the weight-ing arms. With the PK 2630 SE forring frames with round support rodsand PK SEH for ring frames withhexagonal support rods OerlikonTextile Components has truly cre-ated the world's most versatileweighting arm series.

The latest addition to the series, thePK 2630 SEH is for ring frameswith hexagonal support rod (Fig-ure 2)

Figure 2 : Ring frames with hexago-nal support rod

NEWS

Table 1 : Requirements in flexibility of drafting systems

Requirements of spinning mills Possibilities of the drafting system

Broad range of raw material Application of high draftsEmployment of high fiber masses Application of high weighting

pressuresQuick adjustment to fiber material Easy adjustment of loading

Suitable top apron cradle system

Reduction of setting time and Easy and quick mountingprocessing times Easy and quick settings

Fast exchange of components

Easy operation Ergonomic design

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PK 2600 SE series - no otherweighting arm offers so many ad-vantages:

The weighting arm system offers -both in assembly and during con-tinuous spinning operation - awealth of advantages unmatched byany other system on the market:

� Rapid assembly and setting

� Simple and easy operation

� Expanded range of applicationsfor fiber length and fiber type

� Quick and very accurate heightsetting

� Independent working single el-ements

� Minimized load variation fromspinning position to spinningposition

� High flexibility in weighting armsettings

The PK SEH is the dawn of a newera in weighting arms for ringframes with hexagonal support rod,where the alternatives have beenmore limited than for ring frameswith round support rod.

Fast and flexible assembly

Assembly is fast and easy thanksto the mounting from above. EachPK SEH arm can be separatelymounted and replaced at everyspinning position on the hexagonalsupport rod, as used with Rieterand LMW ring frames (Fig. 3). Thepreviously necessary "threading" ofthe arms onto the support rod isnot necessary anymore. Support rodis mounted on the machine empty,which makes the process muchsimpler and faster. The PK 2630SEH can be fixed on the supportrod easily from the front and with-out any complications.

The new design now allows to uti-lize the proven benefits of the es-tablished PK 2630 SE on Rieterand LMW ring spinning machinesas well. This makes conversionspossible in a quick and easy way.A special challenge was to keepthe spinning geometry of Rieter andLMW ring frames. Now it is pos-sible to use the full flexibility ofsetting possibilities for load anddrafting zones with these machines,too.

Figure 3 : Safe mounting on hexago-nal support rod

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From 5 to 7 February 2013 the TireTechnology Expo in Cologne is onceagain the meeting place for trademanufacturers who are eager tokeep in step with the latest devel-opments. Oerlikon Saurer, AllmaProduct Line welcomes its custom-ers to Stand 1015 in Hall 1.

Focus is on the successful energy-saving Allma tire cord cabling ma-chine CC4, the new energy-savingretrofit package for the Allma CC3and the ultimately flexible two-for-one twisting machine, the AllmaCC3-Combi.

Allma CC4 convinces its cus-tomersExperience in the field: Since re-ceiving the "Award for Innovationand Excellence" in 2011, the AllmaCC4 has proved its worth in theplants of many customers through-out the world. Customers confirmthat the new Allma CC4 technol-ogy allows for a reduction in en-ergy costs of up to 50%. As theenergy costs account for approx.80% of the twisting costs, thismeans enormous cost savings po-tential. The decrease in the costs

of air-conditioning technology is anadditional contribution to the reduc-tion in energy. Thanks to the per-fect thread tensioning control, theyarn breakage rate can be halvedwhich has a positive effect not onlyon the quality of the yarn but alsoon productivity. The productionstaff appreciate the user-friendlyAllma CC4, its smooth running andin particular the substantially re-duced noise level. The Allma CC4with its outstanding technology un-doubtedly meets the high expecta-tions of its customers.New: Energy-saving retrofitpackages for the Allma CC3With the energy-saving retrofitpackages for the great number ofAllma CC3 cabling machines thatare in use, the advantages of thenew CC4 technology can be fullyexploited. The energy-saving up-grade is an interesting innovationand aids customers in reducing theirtwisting costs for existing machineswhilst simultaneously increasing thequality of their products.

Allma CC3 Combi shows its su-periorityThe unique flexibility and high pro-

ductivity of the Allma CC3 in themanufacture of 1-3 ply tire cordare decisive assets of this machine.The superior economic efficiencyof the two-for-one twisting processcompared to the traditional ringtwisting process becomes a signifi-cant aspect. An essential advan-tage of the Allma CC3 are also thetwice as large yarn packages infurther processing which promisea considerable savings potential.

The Allma exhibition team takespleasure in welcoming its custom-ers to Stand 1015 in Hall 1 whereit looks forward to exchangingviews with them on the latest de-velopments related to energy sav-ing.

For further information please con-tact:Werner SentiMarketingOerlikon SaurerTel: +41 71 44 75 18 8Fax: +41 71 47 75 42 [email protected]

Tire Technology Expo 2013 -Customersrespond with enthusiasm to the Allma CC4

Advertise with us on

TAI Website Banners

Visit

www.textileassociationindia.org

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INDIA is a major player in thetextile industry and, more and more,in the technical textiles. Growthopportunities are considerable ifthese industries meet the require-ments of their domestic markets forhigher quality products and standup the worldwide competition totake advantage of the globalizationof the markets.

The Indian authorities fully recog-nize these sectors and through theTechnology Upgraduation FundScheme (TUFS), want to promotetheir growth and take part in thefinancing. As for the French textilemachinery manufacturers, for al-ready a long time they have con-sidered India as a lead market. Verystrong ties with industrialists in In-dia already exist and are consid-ered as long time partnerships.Thanks to local representatives, theregular organization of seminars inthe main Indian textile areas andthe participation at many shows, theFrench machinery manufacturerscan offer the service of local part-ners.

After the 2007 and 2010 seminars,next March 2013, they offer thetextile and technical textile indus-trialists the opportunity to meet oncemore.

In Delhi, they are expecting indus-

trialists from Northern India (Delhiitself, Panipat, Ludhiana,Amrtisar…). In Surat, industrial-ists from all over Gujarat,(Ahmedabad, Silvassa, Vapi,Baroda, Vadodara …) which isconsidered a key region for thetextile industries future growth, aregion where textile is a reliantindustry from the production of thefibre to fabric and garment..

What can French technology andservice bring?France is the 6th largest exporterof textile machinery with annualexports of nearly 1.2 Billion USD.The French companies which willbe represented are particularlystrong in long fibre spinning, yarnpreparation and treatment, modernweaving, dyeing and finishing (fab-rics and knits), air conditioning oftextile plants, recycling of textilewastes and products, these forapparel textiles, home textiles (in-cluding carpet industry), Technicaltextiles for such applications as theautomobile, Personal protection,hygiene, agriculture, medical tex-tiles, composites …).

The machines are state of the ofart technologically, the servicesinclude quick assistance, spareparts availability, special design,consulting services in such sectorsas safety rules and energy sav-

ings. AESA, ALLIANCE,CALLEBAUT de BLICQUY,DOLLFUS&MULLER, LAROCHE,N. SCHLUMBERGER,ROUSSELET,STÄUBLI, SUPERBA,VERDOl and the UCMTF teamslook forward welcoming you.

These seminars are free of chargebut prior registration is required.

For further information,please contact:French Trade Commission,Embassy of France in IndiaMrs Brinder RAULT,Trade Advisor,[email protected] + 91 11 4319 6324/6300

Union DesConstructeurs DeMateriel TextileDe FranceFrench TextileMachineryManufacturers'Association92038 Paris La Defense Cedex -FranceTel : (33) 1 47 17 63 45Fax : (33) 1 47 17 63 48http : //www.ucmtf.come-mail : [email protected]

Indo-French Seminar on Textiles & Technical Textiles MachineryFrench Technology And Service For The Indian Textile And Technical Textile

Delhi: Tuesday, March 19, 2013, Surat: Friday, March 22, 2013

Published regularlysince 1939

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SAD DEMISE

Late Shri H. A. Shah(04.09.1934 to 24.11.2012)

It is with great sorrow we wouldto inform you that the Past Presi-dent & Chairman of The TextileAssociation (India), Mumbai UnitShri Harivodan A. Shah passedaway on 24th November 2012 atAhmedabad.

Shri Shah needs no introduction tothe textile professionals particularlyto the textile processors as he wasactively involved in this field fornearly 40 years.

Shri H. A. Shah was Fellow ofTextile Institute (Manchester) andalso Vice-Chairman and Treasurerof Textile Institute, Bombay Sec-tion.

He did his B. Sc. (Hons) degreeand L.T.C. from V.J.T.I. Bombayand worked in the processing de-partments of Reputed Textile Mills

at Ahmedabad. He did his furtherstudies at the Man-made fibre divi-sion of Leeds University, Leeds(U.K.) where he obtained his B.Sc.(Textile Industries) degree, heworked with leading Dyestuffmanufacturers in Europe to obtainfirst hand knowledge of ProductApplications.

Shri Shah held different positionwith responsibilities ranging fromfunctional Management to GeneralManagement. He was Chief Ex-ecutive Officer of one of theN.T.C. (MN) Bombay and heworked as Processing Manager ofCentury Textiles, Mumbai as hislast assignment, where he intro-duced new concept in strict qualityand process control.

Shri Shah has many patents to hiscredit. His most important contri-bution has been Stage Bleachingand Foam Printing Technology. ShriShah developed many processes.Some of the important ones are:

(i) Brosso/Carbonisation process forblends.(ii) Single stage bleaching process(obtained patents) minimizing en-ergy consumption.(iii) Foam Printing Technology(iv) Anilline Black Dyeing by Pad-Batch Method (Patents Applied for)(v) Developed the process ofCOLD BLEACHING(vi) Cold Pad-Batch method of

dyeing for Direct Colours.(vii) Fancy effects in Dyed fabricsby using vat and indigo colours.

He was the panel member forexamination in South Gujarat Uni-versity, Surat and Mumbai for tex-tile course. He has published morethan thirty technical papers. He isalso the co-authors of the Chemi-cal Processing Tablets (1) RollersPrinting (2) Quality & ProcessControl.

Shri Shah was Chairman of TheTextile Association (India), MumbaiUnit from 1977 to 1983 and Presi-dent of the Unit from 1983 to 85.The Textile Association (India),Mumbai Unit honoured Shri H. A.Shah with Life-Time AchievementAward in 2007.

He initiated many projects for thebenefit of Textile Technicians viz.Housing Projects, Group InsuranceSchemes, Book Publications andholding International Conferenceand Exhibition.

He had widely traveled in Europeand U. S. A. and led delegation ofthe Association and Institute forITME in 1983 & 1987.

On behalf of The Textile Associa-tion (India), Mumbai Unit we prayto the Almighty to bestow peace tothe departed soul.

TAI BOOK PUBLICATIONS

Book your orders with:

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) - Central Office

Pathare House, Next to State Bank of India, 67,

Ranade Road, Dadar (W), Mumbai – 400 028

Tel.: 022-2446 11145, Fax: 022-2447 4974

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The International Textile Manufac-turers Federation (ITMF) has re-leased the 2012 edition of its bien-nial International Production CostComparison - the only consolidatedsource for benchmarking the yarnand fabric production costs prevail-ing in 9 of the world's most impor-tant textile manufacturing countries:Brazil, China, Egypt, India, Indone-sia, Italy, Korea, Turkey and theUSA.

The report is designed to highlightthe implications of the ever-increas-ing capital intensity of the primarytextile industry, by tracing the im-pact of cost factors borne by manu-facturers and presenting them on astandardised basis. This allows thereader to readily compare elementsof total manufacturing costs acrossrepresentative production facilities.

The presentation of manufacturingand total yarn and fabric costs in-corporates a detailed breakdowninto the various cost componentsper kilogram of yarn and per meterof fabric, showing their relative im-portance and influence in the coun-tries under review.

The International Production CostComparison incorporates a widerange of cost factors, from exter-nally-determined factors like rawmaterial and machinery pricesthrough to the local prices of labour,energy, water, capital, and manyother inputs to production.

The textile industry segmentsanalysed are Spinning, Texturing,Weaving and Knitting, and indi-vidual results are supplied for ring-spun, o-e, and textured yarns, and

ITMF's International Production Cost Comparison2012 - Spinning, Texturing, Weaving and Knitting

for fabrics woven and knitted fromeach of these yarn types.Manufacturing costs covered in thereport are based on parametersspecified by the textile machinerycompanies Rieter, OerlikonBarmag, Picanol and Mayer &Cie., and thus the representativecost structure for each country isderived from both "bottom-up" (in-vestment analysis) and "top-down"(surveyed) standpoints. While notattempting to exhaustively explainthe final sales price of yarns andfabrics, the International ProductionCost Comparison nonetheless pro-vides a unique basis for consider-ing variations in international costson a technically robust, yet acces-sible, foundation.

The CD-ROM of the 2012 editionof the International Production CostComparison (IPCC) can be pur-chased from the ITMF (http://www.itmf.org/wb/pages/home/publications.php).

Shri Rakesh Mehra New Chairman in SRTEPC

Shri Rakesh Mehra, the Vice-Chairman of Banswara Syntex Ltd. has been unani-mously elected as the Chairman of Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export PromotionCouncil (SRTEPC) for a period of 2 years. Shri Mehra had been the Chairman of theCouncil earlier too and is a long standing member of the Committee of Administration.

Shri Mehra has been a chartered Accountant engaged in the textile industry. He hadtraveled widely and has vast experience in international marketing of synthetic textilesspinning more than 25 years.

Shri Anil Rajvanshi, the Senior Vice-President & Head Corporate Development Group,Reliance Industries Ltd. has been unanimously elected as the Vice-Chairman of theSynthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) for a period of 2years.

Shri Rajvanshi has been also the member of the National Committee of Textiles of CIIand FICCI. He also associated with the Textiles Committee and represents RelianceIndustries Ltd. at SASMIRA. He has many years of experience of working with majorfibre producers and has been involved with the Indian man-made fibre textiles industrysince 1989.

Shri Rakesh Mehra

Shri Anil Rajvanshi

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SDC and SGCCI successfullyorganised 'Sustainability in Textiles-How we can make a change?'a Half-day seminar focused onprocess that needs to be adaptedfor producing 'Sustainable textiles'.

The Society of Dyers andColourists, India (SDC India)organised its 4th half day seminartitled 'Sustainability in Textiles -Howwe can make a Change?' on 12thDecember, 2012. It was held atSGCCI conference hall in Surat.This event was the culmination inthis years' series of the seminarsplanned by the SDC to get closerto the textile clusters. It was wellattended, with over 170 delegatesregistering for the event. SDC'sfirst Indian President Dr SanjivKamat and SGCCI president Shri.Paresh Patel inaugurated the Con-ference, along with Shri UllhasNimkar (Chair, SDC India TrusteeBoard).

The President of SDC Dr. S YKamat in his speech described theprevailing scenario in the textileindustry. Elaborating on the needsfor the future, he helped put theterm sustainability in the right per-spective. Shri Pareshbhai Patel,President of The Southern GujaratChamber of Commerce and indus-try informed that SDC can be theknowledge partner for the Surattextile industry.

The technical sessions started withMr. Vijay Sane (treasurer Mumbairegion) and Mr. Yogesh Gaikwad(Technical Manager -Asia), inform-ing the audience about SDC andthe benefits that can accrue to itsmembers in India.

Dr. Sanjay Kulkarni (Director-SedoTreepoint) studied presentation on'Saving resources through ad-vanced dyeing and finishing tech-nology'. His presentation focusedon providing complete solution to aDyehouse by demonstrating savingthrough material control, Integrationof colour management and processmanagement, intelligent processmanagement and energy Manage-ment. Dr. Jaideep Dudhbhate whohas 30 years of experience in waterand waste management presentedon innovative solutions for reduc-ing treatment costs of ETP andrecycle systems. He made thedelegates aware of the commer-cial and technical advantages ofvarious methods of treating aDyehouse effluent. EliasMohammad & Hemendra Desaifrom Colourtex Limited stressed onthe need of using intelligent dyesand auxiliaries to improve produc-tivity of dye houses. They gavevarious examples of how this can

The seminar concluded with anopen discussion about implementa-tion of Sustainable technology. Dr.N N Mahapatra stressed on theuse of some non-traditional fibre formanufacturing 'sustainable textiles',Dr. Ashok Athalye talked aboutinitiatives taken by his companytowards being more sustainable, Mr.Shankar spoke on challenges inmanufacturing sustainable and af-fordable auxiliaries, Mr AnirudhPangam informed the audienceabout how recycled polyester canbe dyed to similar fastness levelsto that of virgin polyester and howpolyester can be dyed with muchless demand on resources, and canalso be reused.

The event was commednaly sup-ported by DyStar, CHT, Huntsman,Clariant, Britacel, Colourtex, Apex

Products, Sedo Treepoint andColosperse Dyes.

Images from the conferenceThe images and other artwork fromthe conference will be shortly avail-able for download on SDC India'sFacebook page. Please feel free tocontact the SDC India office,should you require high resolutionversions of the images for publica-tions. The image and the artworkcopyright should be attributed toSDC India.

About the Society of Dyers andColouristsThe Society of Dyers and Colouristsis the world's leading independent,educational charity dedicated toadvancing the science and technol-ogy of colour worldwide. Our mis-sion is to communicate the scienceof colour in a changing world. SDCIndia has over the past 8 yearssuccessfully organised conferences,which have been well received bythe industry for the quality of top-ics selected. This, the eighth inter-national conference, creates a com-mon platform for information dis-semination, bringing together na-tional as well as global personali-ties & talent for the common goodof the coloration industry. For moreinformation, please visit the SDCwebsite: http://www.sdc.org.uk

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Texttreasure

Every great dream beginswith a dreamer. Always re-member, you have withinyou the strength, the pa-tience, and the passion toreach for the stars tochange the world.

- Harriet Tubman

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NEWS

Shri H.S. Patel

Shri Hashmukh Somabhai Patel, Governing CouncilMember of The Textile Association (India),Ahmedabad Chapter has won the assembly electionand elected as MLA of Amaraiwadi Ward ofAhmedabad with a thumping majority.

Apart from Textile Field Mr. H.S. Patel is activelyassociated with Bhartiya Janata Party (BJP) since1990 and active member having responsibility in vari-ous elections of BJP. He has served with AhmedabadMunicipal Corporation. During 2005 to 2010 he wasMunicipal Councilor in his Indrapuri ward. Then since2010 he was Municipal Councilor in his Vatwa ward.Also during 2005 to 2008 Mr. Patel was a Chairmanof Estate Management Committee and then during2008 to 2010 was a Chairman, Water Supply & Sew-erage Committee. Now Mr. Patel is a Chairman ofHousing improvement Committee of Ahmedabad

Municipal Corporation. He is also closely associatedas member of committees on local development orga-nizations and Banking.

Mr. H.S. Patel is very actively associated with theTextile Association (India), Ahmedabad Chapter andserved with various capacities since 1977. He is aPatron Member of Association and served as Mem-ber of Managing Committee, Governing Council andVice President of Ahmedabad Chapter and alsoTrustee Member. Presently Mr. Hashmukh Patel isan elected Governing Council Member in TAI Cen-tral.

Mr. H.S. Patel has received TAI Direct ATA Awardand also he was awarded with Diamond veteran'saward during the Felicitation function in celebrationof Diamond Jubilee year in Nov 2008 by the hand ofShri Ashok Bhatt, Hon'ble Speaker of Gujarat As-sembly, Govt. of Gujarat. He also received ServiceMemento from TAI donated by Khushaldas H. Shahat Unit level in 2011.

It is really a matter of highly pride to The TextileAssociation (India) for his success. We have confi-dent that Mr. Patel will perform in an excellent waysuccessfully for his constituency and Gujarat Stateduring his tenure as MLA. TAI heartily congratulateshim for scaling new height and wishes him all thesuccess.

Congratulation!!!

Illustrative Section : Sector-wise salient features and technical specifications of important textile machines, parts and accessories ofdifferent manufacturers.Addresses Section : Names & addresses of all Indian textile machinery, parts & accessories manufacturers, exporters dealers and consultants.

The Guide is also available at Association's office:

Textile Machinery Manufacturers' Association (India),53, Mittal Chambers, 5th Floor, Nariman Point, Mumbai - 400 021

Phone: +91-22-22023766, 22024238, Fax: +91-22-22028017E-Mail: [email protected], [email protected]

The Guide is priced at Rs.500/- per copy plus Rs.150/- courier charges.The Guide in CD form is also available at Rs.500/- plus Rs.50/-courier charges.

BUYERS' GUIDEAN IDEAL REFERENCE SOURCE FOR

INDIAN TEXTILE MACHINERY, PARTS & ACCESSORIESThe Guide covers following sections viz:

Descriptive Section:a) Names and addresses of manufacturers of complete textile machinery with the range of product and products-wise

list.b) Names and addresses of manufacturers of components, parts & accessories along with the range of product-wise list.c) Names & addresses of exporters and dealers/suppliers of textile machinery and equipments and consultants.

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INDIAInternational Convention on Colorants - 2013Date : 08-09, January 2013Venue : Mahatma Mandir, Gandhinagar, Gujarat, IndiaContact : The Dyestuff Manufacturers Association of

India 296, Samuel Street, 4th Floor, Vadgadi,Mumbai - 400 003 India

Tel.: +91-22 23420752, Fax: +91-22 23411036E-mail : [email protected] : http://www.dmai.org

Igmatex-Textile Home Furnishing and GarmentMachinery ExhibitionDate : 01-03, February 2013Venue : Huda Ground, Near Mittal Mega Mall, PanipatContact : Mr. Rajesh Sinha / Mr. Manoj Sinha Igmatex

Exhibitions B-504, Goodwil Gardens, Sector-8,Kharghar, Navi Mumbai - 410 201

Mob: 09324077881, 09312069048E-mail : [email protected], [email protected] : http://www.igmatexfair.com

InFashion 2013 - International Textile and Ingredient Inno-vation ShowDate : 20th-22th March, 2013Venue : Hall No. 1, Bombay Exhibition Centre, W.E.

Highway, Goregaon (E), Mumbai, IndiaContact : Mr. Adarsh Verma, Project Manager Images

Multimedia Pvt. Ltd. S-21, Okhla Industrial Area,Phase-II, New Delhi - 110 020 India

Tel.: +91 11 40525000, Fax: +91 11 40525001Mob: +91 9999251621E-mail : [email protected],Website : www.indiainfashion.com

Indo-French seminar on textile & technical textile machinerFrench Technology and service for the Indian Textile andTechnical TextileDate : DELHI : Tuesday, March 19, 2013

SURAT : Friday, March 22, 2013Contact : French Trade Commission, Embassy of Franch

in India Mrs Brinder RAULT, Trade AdvisorTel.: +91 11 4319 6324/6300

Environmental Sustainability for Colourant IndustryDate : 10th January 2013Venue : 'Nonya' Hotal Ista, Near Vastrapur Lake,

AhmedabadContact : Aarat Sheth, Head - Events

Indian Chemical Council - Gujrat 103, L A -CITADEL Complex 30, Nutan Bharat SocietyAlkapuri Vadodara - 309 007, Gujarat. India

Telefax : +91 265 2342969Head phone.: +91 9898298304

FORTHCOMING EVENTS

E-mail : [email protected],[email protected],

Website : www.indiainchemicalcouncil.com

TECHNOTEX( India's premier show on technical textile and FICCI jointlywith Ministry of Textiles)Date : 17-19th January 2013Venue : Pragati Maidan, New DelhiContact : Mr. Manoj Mehta, Deputy Director

Mr. Amit Kakkar, Research Associate FICCITrade Fair, Secretariat Federation House,Tansen Marg, New Delhi-110001

Tel.: +91 11 23356658,Mob: +91 9654258258Fax : +91 11 23359734E-mail : [email protected]

[email protected]@gmail.com

InDIGO : Event for denim in South AsiaInDIGO is the one and only denim trade event in South Asia,conceived to cover the entire denim value chain, from fiberto finished products, and provide an unmatched opportu-nity to all stake holders and segment leaders, from acrossthe globe to show-case their offerings to the largest evergathering of denim professionals..Date : 19th-20th April 2013Venue : Expocentre, Sector 62, NOIDA, India.Contact : Nitin Khushwah, Manager - Projects / Events

Denim Club IndiaTel.: +91 9582883612

ABROADComposites 2013Date : Jan 29-31, 2013Venue : Orlando, FloridaContact : Composites 2013

3033 Wilson Blvd., Suite 240, Arlington, VA22201. USAwww.compositesshow.org

AATCC 2013 International Conference( The annual AATCC International Conference offers pre-sentations, networking, and vendor exhibits covering theentire textile and material supply chain)Date : April 9-11, 2013Venue : Hyatt Regency, Greenville, SC.Contact : AATCC, P.O.Box 12215,

Researc Triangle Park,N.C. 27709-2215 USA;

Fax : + 1 919 549 8933E-mail : [email protected].

Every effort is made to ensure that the information given is correct. You are however, advised to re-check the dates withthe organizers, for any change in schedule, venue etc., before finalizing your travel plans.

The views expressed in this journal are those of the authors. They are not necessarily the views of editor-publisher.

All rights reserved. Neither this publication nor any part of it may be reproduced in any form or by any means, nor mayit be printed, photocopied or stored on microfilm without the written permission of the editor-publisher.

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