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Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

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Page 1: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen
Page 2: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen
Page 3: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen
Page 4: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

©2007DarrenMcGrady

All rights reserved.Noportionof thisbookmaybe reproduced, stored in a retrieval system,or transmitted in any formorbyanymeans—electronic,mechanical,photocopy, recording, scanning,orother—except forbriefquotations incritical reviewsorarticles,withoutthepriorwrittenpermissionofthepublisher.

PublishedinNashville,Tennessee,byThomasNelson.ThomasNelsonisaregisteredtrademarkofThomasNelson,Inc.

FoodphotographybyLeonardoFrusteri.

PagedesignbyWalterPetrie.

ThomasNelson,Inc.,titlesmaybepurchasedinbulkforeducational,business,fund-raising,orsalespromotionaluse.Forinformation,[email protected].

ISBN978-1-4185-7436-9(eBook)

LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationDataMcGrady,Darren,1962–Eatingroyally/DarrenMcGrady.p.cm.

Includesindex.ISBN978-1-4016-0321-21.McGrady,Darren,1962—2.Cooks—England—Biography.3.Windsor,Houseof.I.Title.

TX649.M44A32007641.5092—dc22[B]

20070013581112131415TSB109876

Page 5: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

Idedicatethisbooktothememoryoftwospecialladies:TomyNanFlorrieLambertwhomeantsomuchtomeandwouldhavebeensoproudofthisbook,itwouldhavebeenshownallaroundthebingohall.AndofcoursetoPrincessDiana,whotaughtmetobehumbleandmademerealizethatwhilecharityworkcanbehard,itisthemostsatisfying,andthatgivingissomuchmorerewardingthantaking.

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TableofContents

Preface

Opening

ARoyalIntroductionROYALTEASCONES

Chapter1TheRoyalYear

Chapter2BuckinghamPalace:WinterBallsandSummerTeasCROQUESMONSIEURGLENEAGLESPÂTÉCHILLEDTOMATOANDDILLMOUSSEWITHLOBSTERSTILTONANDPECANSABLÉSWITHGRILLEDPEARSHERBEDCREPESWITHGOATCHEESEANDMAPLESALMONSAUSAGEROLLSGAELICSTEAKSSPINACHSOUFFLÉSAGEDERBYDAUPHINOISEPOTATOESRASPBERRYICECREAMBATTENBURGCAKECHOCOLATEBISCUITCAKEEARLGREYTEACAKEJAMANDCREAMSWISSROLLRASPBERRYTARTLETSICEDCOFFEE

Chapter3WindsorCastle:RitesofSpringSPRINGASPARAGUSSOUPWITHDILL

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CUCUMBERANDMINTMOUSSECHIVECREAMDRESSINGROASTSPRINGLEGOFLAMBBEEFWELLINGTONRACKOFLAMBWITHGARLIC,ROSEMARY,ANDJUNIPERSOLEMURATSALMONENCROÛTECHOUXÀLACHERBOURG(CABBAGEINACREAMYGARLICANDBACONSAUCE)ROASTEDSPRINGVEGETABLESNORMANDY-STYLEBOULANGÈREPOTATOESPETITPOISÀLAFRANÇAIS(FRENCH-STYLEPEAS)POMMESFONDANTESDILLCREAMSAUCEVANILLAICECREAMANDRASSYPUDDINGCREPESISLANDAISECOFFEEMOUSSEBRANDYSNAPSCRÈMEBRÛLÉEENGLISHPANCAKESCHOCOLATEPERFECTIONPIEROYALBIRTHDAYCAKEVANILLASUGARLEMONMILLE-FEUILLEWITHRHUBARBCOULISFRAMBOISESST.GEORGELEMONCHEESEMULBERRYGIN

Chapter4HMYBritannia:SummerontheHighSeas

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FRENCHDRESSINGBEEFCARBONNADEEGGSDRUMKILBOCHEESESOUFFLÉPOJARSKISMITANETENDERLOINSTEAKSWITHSTILTONANDWALNUTCRUSTANDMUSHROOMCREAMSAUCEHADDOCKST.GERMAINLEMONREFRESHERCOLDLEMONSOUFFLÉTARTETATINYOGURTBRÛLÉEWITHMANGOANDPAPAYAJAMANDCREAMSPONGEISLEOFWIGHTPUDDING

Chapter5BalmoralCastle:AutumnintheHighlandsCURRIEDSALMONKEDGEREESALMONFISHCAKESPOACHEDEGGSENCROÛTEGRAVADLAXWITHSAUCESUEDOISECOTTAGEPIEMARINATEDPORTABELLAMUSHROOMSSTEAKDIANETENDERLOINSTEAKSSTUFFEDWITHBOURSINWITHAROSEMARY,BELLPEPPERSAUCEPOACHEDSALMONWITHDILLHOLLANDAISEGOUJONSOFSALMONWITHTYROLIENNESAUCEGLENFIDDICHCHOCOLATEMOUSSESCOTTISHTHISTLESHORTBREADSUMMERPUDDINGCRATHIECRUNCH

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BREADANDBUTTERPUDDINGGREEKYOGURTANDSTRAWBERRYCHEESECAKEPEACHPRINCESSOLDENGLISHAPPLEPIEVEILEDFARMER’SDAUGHTERQUEENOFPUDDINGSBALMORALSTRAWBERRYJAM

Chapter6SandringhamHouse:ARoyalChristmasSTILTONFRITTERSWITHCREAMYWALNUTDRESSINGMASHEDPOTATOESROASTTURKEYBREADSAUCEPIQUANTDILLANDLIMESAUCECHICKENANDLEEKPIECURRIEDCHICKENPIESVENISONSTEWSUPREMEOFPHEASANTSTUFFEDWITHGOATCHEESELAMBRAAN(INDIANLEGOFLAMB)NAVARINOFLAMBWITHHERBEDDUMPLINGSIRISHSTEWBREASTOFPHEASANTWITHAPEARLBARLEY“RISOTTO”BEEFCURRY—ENGLISHSTYLEBASMATIRICEPILAFMINCEPIESTREACLETARTCHOCOLATEROULADE“YULELOG”TRADITIONALIRISHSODABREADCHRISTMASCAKEMULLEDWINE

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BRANDYSAUCECHRISTMASPUDDINGSTEAMEDSYRUPSPONGEPUDDINGTRADITIONALENGLISHTRIFLE

Chapter7KensingtonPalace:AHomeforAllSeasonsCARROTANDEGGROULADEWITHMESCLUNSALADANDAMAPLEGINGERDRESSINGAVOCADOANDHEARTSOFPALMSALADFALLGREENSWITHROASTEDBEETS,CARAMELIZEDWALNUTS,ANDGOATCHEESEWITHWALNUTDRESSINGPRESSEDVEGETABLETERRINEPARSNIPANDAPPLESOUPWITHPARMESAN-CHIVEFOAMSTUFFEDBELLPEPPERSSPINACHANDREDPEPPERROULADEWITHSHAVEDPARMESANPEARANDWALNUTSALADWITHPARMESANBALSAMICDRESSINGLOBSTERTHERMIDORSMOKEDSALMONANDCRABMEATCUSTARDSCHILLEDTOMATOANDDILLMOUSSE(FAT-FREEVERSION)STUFFEDAUBERGINE(STUFFEDEGGPLANT)PUREEDHERBDRESSINGPOACHEDEGGSSUZETTEPEACHPANNACOTTAICEDPRALINEANDAMARETTOSOUFFLÉWITHPOACHEDPEAR

Index

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Preface

It was while traveling around the country raising money to promote breastcancerawarenessthatIdecidedtowritethisbook.PeoplewerefascinatedbythelittleanecdotesItoldandthefoodIprepared,andtheywantedmore.Andsothisbookwasborn.Itwasonlyfitting,then,thatmyadvancefromthisbookshouldthereforegotocharity.IchosetheElizabethGlaserPediatricAIDSFoundationbecauseitlinkedtwoofPrincessDiana’scharitablegoals—childrenandAIDS.IwantedittobeabookthatWilliamandHarrycouldshowtotheirchildrenandsay,“Look,thisiswhatGrannyDianausedtoeatwhenwewereyourage.”

ThankyoutoCatherineDrayton—myliteraryagentuntilIscaredherbacktoAustralia—for believing there could be a good book here. I owe you an icecream. To Alexis Hurley and Eleanor Jackson of Inkwell Management forpickinguptheprojectreignsandguidingittofruition.Thankyoubothforyourpatience,support,advice,direction,andforconvincingmethatyoucan’twriteabook in two weeks. You are the best! Thanks to all at Thomas Nelson forcreatingabeautifulbook,especiallytoPamelaClementsforhavingfaithintheproject,andtoGeoffreyStoneandLoriJonesfortheirleadershipandtalentandfor humoring me and accommodating my requests as often as possible.Enormousthanks toSusanRuffinsforherenduranceanddiscipline inkeepingmeontrackandontime.WithoutyouIwouldstillbeonthefirstchapter.ThankyouforwritingmeexactlyasIspeak.YouhavesuchtalentandhumorandIamproudtohaveworkedwithyou.

Ahuge thank you toMr. andMrs.CharlesWyly Jr. for their support andkindnessoverthefouryearsittooktoputthisbooktogether.SpecialthankstoJillRowlettandLeeBaileyforthestunningEnglishantiquesilverandchinainthefoodshotsandwho,alongwithYvonneCrum,kneweveryonewhenitcameto “borrowing” the best props and equipment. To Abigail Davies and EddieDennisatNeimanMarcusforthebestselectionofEnglishchinaandcrystal.ToTerryVanWilsonandAngelaMaloneofPorthault for the finest linenoutsideBuckinghamPalace.ToCharlesandNellRobertsofLondonMarketantiquesforaddingtheBritishhistorytothefoodshotsandhelpingmakethemauthentic.ToLeoFrusteri for turningmy food intoworksof art,bellissimo!Leo,youare astar.

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Mostimportantly,Iwanttothankmywife,Wendy,whohadtoputupwithmanyweekends,latenights,andholidayswhenIwasatthecomputerortestingrecipes. I love you and couldn’t have done this without your support andencouragement. And to Kelly, Lexie, and Harry, who toldmemany times to“askMiss Alexis if you can have a day off, Dad.”Well, now I can. To mymotherPaulinewhoinspiredmewithherowncookingandtomyfatherMichaelwhokeptdiggingdeepintohispocketwhileIwaslearning.AlsotomysiblingsChrisandSacha.Thankyouallforsupportingme,believinginme,andgivingmetheconfidencetofaceanychallenge.

—DarrenMcGrady

Warmest thankstoAlexisHurleyandEleanorJacksonatInkwellManagementforofferingmespaceinthekitchenandat thetable!Iwillalwaysbegrateful.Thankstoall thefolksatThomasNelsonPublishersincludingGeoffreyStone,PamelaClements,andLoriJones.Yourguidance,speed,andeditorialgenerosityaredeeplyappreciated.SpecialthankyoutoDarren,whosestaminainsloggingthroughdraft upondraft ensured thatwe got it just right andwhose kindness,goodspirits,andgracefulnaturemadeworkfeellikeplay.

ThankyoutoSeth,Theo,andOliviaforyourtremendousunderstandingandpatience. This could not have happened without your support. I love you allmore than I can ever express. A final thank you toMargaret Giganti, whosetalent,love,andwisdomwasgiventomewithoutreserve.Itnourishesmestill.

—SusanRuffins

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Opening

HowdoyoubecomeacheftotheBritishroyalfamily?It’sseemsasifI’vejustbeenterriblyluckyand,infact,thatcertainlyplaysapart.Butaftertwenty-fiveyears in kitchens both grand andmodest, I remain passionate about food andcooking.AndatnotimemorethanwhenIwascookingfortheroyalfamily.

I began cooking at BuckinghamPalace shortly after themarriage of LadyDiana and Prince Charles and remained in royal service until the death ofPrincessDianain1997.DuringthattimeIrosetoseniorpastrychefatthepalaceand then to the prestigious position of Princess Diana’s private chef atKensingtonPalace.My fifteenyearsworking for the royal familywerekey inhelping me master mymétier. But the experience was ultimately much morethanjustexcellenttraining—itformedthepersonIamtoday.Irememberitallwith great affection, andwith PrincessDiana’s death, also a tinge of sadness.Thisbookiswrittenwithtwogoalsinmind:tosharewhatIhavelearnedandtosetdownmymemoriesinprint.

Today, as in the past, theword royalty connotes an anointed life, separateandapartfromthelivesofeverydaypeople.ButmyexperienceworkingfortheWindsorswasjusttheopposite.Infact,theroyalfamily,withtheirtraditionsandsense of service, made me feel British to the core. And underneath all theexternaltrappingsofmodernroyallife,theroyalhouseholdisreallyjustahomefora large,extendedfamilywith itsdailyroutines,styles,and tastes.Makenomistake,theirhousehold,likeyours,hasitsquirks.Butwhatmayseemquirkyattheoutsetoftenhasahistoricalandsymbolicunderpinning.Learningthismademyworkasachefallthericher.

It seems fitting in away that this book’s arrival coincides so closelywithQueen Elizabeth’s eightieth birthday and the tenth anniversary of PrincessDiana’s passing. Both of thesewomen affected the path ofmy life inways Icould never have foreseen. Both deeply impressed me with the notion thatalthough life may include personal passions and interests, it is fundamentallyaboutservicetowardothers.Thishasbeenanessential lessoninmyworkasachef, and I am grateful to have the opportunity to share my knowledge withothers.

When I think back, I realize that my becoming a chef was perhaps

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preordained. Growing up in Newark, England, food was quite important, notonlyasasourceofpleasure,butalsoasasourceofincome.Mymumanddadboth worked outside the home, my mum as a chef in a local hotel inNottinghamshire.Whenyourmumisachef,you learnnot tobea fussyeater.Foodathomewasquiteabitmoreeclectic than inmostBritishhouseholds inthe seventies.My sister, brother, and Iwere introduced at an early age to notonly excellent traditionalBritish cooking, but also to French and Italian food.But,Ididn’tactuallycookmuchasachild.InsteadIwasanavideater.

The real reason I started cooking began in high school. I signed up for a“domesticscience”course(intheUSitwouldbecalledhomeeconomics).Thebestpartofitallwasthatyougottoeatwhatyoumade!Itwasasuperbsituationforagrowingboyoffifteenwhowasconstantlyhungry.

I learned all sorts of things, including some not on the syllabus. I madepastrydoughfortartsandalsofoundoutthat ifyoueat jamtartsstraightfromtheovenitwillresultinexcruciatingpainasthehotsugaradherestothetopofyourmouth.Ienjoyeditallandproudlyshowedoffmynewfoundskillstomyfamily.Mymum,whohas always enjoyeda life around food, encouragedmyearlyattempts.IthinksheknewthatIwouldenjoycooking.

Ihadalwaysbeenahands-onstudent,excellinginsubjectsthatallowedmetotranslateacademicideasviaaphysicalexperience.Inschool,cookingclasseswereoneofthefewplaceswheresuchanapproachtolearningwasacceptable.OtherwiseschoolwasquitetraditionallybookishandIoftenstruggled.Bothmyparents,blessthem,understoodthatIdidn’thavemuchofanacademicnature.Thethoughtofgoingontouniversityafterhighschoolwasdauntingforme.So,withmymum’sencouragement,Idecidedtoattendatwo-yearcateringcollegeafter graduating from high school at sixteen. The college was about twentyminutesfromhome,andbestofall,itwasfree.

Atthesametime,mymumthoughtalittlepracticalexperiencewasinorder.ThesummerbeforeIstartedcollegeshegotmeajobasadishwasheratthehotelwheresheworked.JohnBerry,awonderfulfellowwhorantheplace,hiredme.Asyoucanimagine,thedishwasheroccupiesthelowestrunginanyprofessionalkitchen,andIwastostartfromthebottomup.

Mystrategywastogetallthedirtydishesdoneearlyinmyshiftandthentospend the rest of the time watching all the chefs do their work. It was afascinatingplace.Itwasaclassichotelkitchen,whichmeansitwasverywellsetup.Therewas a cold station,where all the salads, sandwiches, andother coldbuffet disheswere prepared. Then therewas a sauce station, fish station, and

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meat station. I rotatedmyself through the kitchen, always standing behind thechefs,tryingnottogetinanyone’swayandkeepingmyeyesopen.Ididn’twinanyawardsforexcellentdishwashing,butIdidmyjobwellandenjoyedbeinginaprofessionalkitchen.Itwasawonderfulintroduction.

Thatsummerexperiencegavemea leadoverall theotherstudentswhenIstartedcollege in the fall. Iwasoneof the fewstudentswhohadworked inaprofessionalkitchen.Icertainlyneededtraining, though,andmyfirstyearwasextremelybusywithnewlessons.Iworkedhard,andtheyearseemedtoflyby.

Mr. Berry and I had kept up an intermittent correspondence during thecourse of the year. He had left the hotel in Nottinghamshire and moved toBallathie House Hotel, a seventeenth-century country house in Perthshire,overlookingtheRiverTayinScotland.Attheendofmyfirstyear,heinvitedmetoScotlandtoworkfor thesummer.HethoughtIshowedpromiseandknewIcouldworkhard. Iwasexcited to travel for thesummerand tomoveup fromdishwashing!

AfteralltheseyearsIstillrecallhowwonderfulthatsummerwasforme.Ihadneverseeningredientslikethisbefore.Nothingfromacan!Gorgeouswholesalmonthatwewouldcook,smoke,orbrine.Wildgrouseandallsortsoflocalbirds.Gameinabundance.Whataluxuriousexperienceforakidofseventeen!Iworkedmytailoffthatsummer,andIreckonMr.Berrygothismoney’sworthoutofme.

Istartedtogainconfidenceinthekitchenandreturnedtoschoolinthefallready to put all my experience to good use. It did indeed pay off. I quicklymovedthroughtheranksofmyclassmatesandgraduatedatthetopofmyclass.One ofmy teachers, who had been especially pessimistic aboutmy prospectswhen I startedcollege,wasquite surprisedathowwell Iperformed. IwonderwhatshewouldthinknowifshelearnedthatIwentontocookfortheQueenofEnglandandPrincessDiana!

Thoughmany ofmy classmateswere perfectly content to remain close tohome,IknewIdidn’twanttostayinNewarkasalocalchef.MyexperienceinScotland had definitely piquedmy interest in learningwhat the outsideworldcouldoffer.ButwhereshouldIgo?London,ofcourse!

Mymum and dad were, as always, supportive, although I expect my dadwasn’t too pleased at the cost of setting his son up in London.Norweremybrotherandsisterthrilledwhentheyconsideredhowmycareerdreamsmightbesiphoning off funds which, no doubt, they could have put to good use. MygrandmotherwasquiteconvincedthatIwasheadingtowarddanger.Afterall,an

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eighteen-year-oldladonhisowninLondonwouldclearlycometonogood.Nogoodatall.

TheonestipulationfrombothmyparentswasthatIneededtohaveatleasttheinklingofajobbeforeIleft.InitiallyIconsideredapplyingforajobintheRoyal Air Force. A good friend, Pete Males, spoke highly of his militarycookingexperience.HehadretiredasawarrantofficerandcametoClarendonCollegeasalecturertofinishhiscareer.ButitistheRAFandyoudohavetogothrough basic training. Plus, the commitmentwas awhopping fifteen years. Ijustwasn’tquitereadyforthat.

IntherestaurantkitchenattheSavoy

Theotherpossibilitywashotelwork.Ihadsomeexperience,ofcourse.Andin the year I graduated, 1980, themost elegant foodwas still being served inhotels inLondon. I applied for positionswith both theWaldorfHotel and theSavoy. I was accepted at both and decided on the Savoy. I traveled off toLondonconfidentthatIcouldhandlemyselfinanyculinarysituation.

Bydaytwo,myconfidencehadevaporated.Therewereseventychefsinthekitchen,andIwasthelastfellowonthelist.HowcouldIhavebeensopuffedup?Iknewnothing!AtleastthatwashowIfelt.ThefirstweekIjustwatchedthechefsandquakedinmyboots.ThenIwentbacktomylittlerentedroomandcried.

While the SavoyHotel was—and remains—a glamorous place, the SavoykitchenwasstraightoutofVictorianEngland.Therewereactuallycoalovensatsome stations. Pakistani kitchen helpers would come in with huge buckets ofcoalandfireuptheovens.Temperaturecontrolwaslimited.Therewasnoair-conditioning,and itwasablazinglyhotkitchen towork induring thesummer

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monthsandonlytolerablywarminthewinter.The chefs ranged in age from eighteen to thirty-five andmany came from

France or Germany. It wasn’t uncommon for fistfights to break out amongcompetitivechefs.Thedayswerelong.Fifteen-toeighteen-hourshiftswerethenorm,andthereweremanytimesIcollapsedonthesubwayaftermyshiftandmissedmystop.Ihadneverbeensotiredinmylife.

Ableary-eyedMcGradyfamilyaftersleepingovernightontheMall.BrotherChrisistakingthephoto.

Inmy two years at the Savoy I rotated through a number of stations andadvancedtoapositionjustbelowchefdePartie.Itwasathoroughlyexhaustingand exhilarating experience. Many of the chefs I worked with remain goodfriends to this day.Butweallmovedon.You simply couldnot remain at theSavoyalongtime.Burnoutwasinevitable.

Toward the endofmy secondyear,Londonwas franticallybusyprimpingforaroyalwedding.In1982PrinceCharleswedLadyDianaSpencerinoneofthemostlavishroyalweddingsinhistory.Mymumwasquitefondoftheroyalfamily,andsheandmydaddecidedtocomedowntoLondonandcampoutontheMallinhopesofgettingaglimpseofLadyDi.Ijoinedthem.IwasalreadythinkingofmovingoutoftheSavoykitchensandconsideringmynextstep.AsIwatchedtheroyalentouragepassonitswaytoSt.Paul’sCathedralIwonderedhowanewaddresswouldlookonmyresume.BuckinghamPalace,forexample?

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ARoyalIntroduction

In England, to get a job working for the Queen carries a certain cachet eventodayand,asaresult,ishighlysoughtafterandquitecompetitive.IwasluckyinhavingclosetieswithaformerchefmatefromtheSavoywhohadmoveduptoBuckinghamPalace.NottoolongaftertheroyalweddingofPrinceCharlesandLadyDiana Spencer, chefMark Fromont invitedme in for a chat and a lookaround the kitchens. I very much liked what I saw. I thought about howinteresting itwouldbe tocook forkingsandqueensand the royal family.So,with a bit of bravado, I sent a letter expressing my interest in working atBuckingham Palace to the assistant master of the household, Mr. MichaelParker.

Soonafterward,Ireceivedaletterstampedwiththeroyalcrest,grantingmeaninterviewthefollowingweek.Well,Ifeltveryimportantthemorningofmyinterview when asked “Where to?” by the cabbie and being able to say,“BuckinghamPalace,side-doorentranceplease.”

Iwasdirectedintotheleftground-floorsideofthepalaceandintotheofficeofMr.Parker,averypropergentlemanwithaquintessentialupperclassBritishaccent.Hewasverydetailed inhisquestionsaboutmybackgroundandskills,butsinceMr.ParkerhadalsocomefromtheSavoy,healreadyknewagreatdealaboutmytraining.

I receivedanofferas juniorcookandwent toworkatBuckinghamPalaceseveralweekslater.

Working at Buckingham Palace is a “live in” job. There are wings ofdormitory-styleroomsforsinglemenandsinglewomeninthepalaceandlargerapartments in the Royal Mews for employees with families. Staff was alsohousedonthegroundsofWindsorCastleandHamptonCourt.Thechildrenwhogrow up within the palace walls often become palace employees. The royalfamilyembracesasociallydemocraticrelationshipwithitsemployees,providinghousing, health care, clothing, six weeks of vacation, and loyal long-termemployment.ThejokeisthatyouworkatBuckinghamPalaceeithertenminutesorfortyyears.Thedrawbacktoallthisisthatthepayisprettylousy.Nomatter,Iwasthrilled.

DuringthenextelevenyearsIworkedfortheQueenandtraveledaroundthe

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world twice as part ofmy job. I saw theUS,Australia,NewZealand,Nepal,France, Italy, Cypress, and the Channel Islands. I spent extensive periods atother royal residences inEngland, includingBalmoralandSandringham. Ihadtheuniqueopportunitytoparticipateinalifethat—whilecertainlymodern—stillcarrieswithitarecognizablelinktotraditionsspanningonethousandyears.

The royal calendar is still set around the seasonsand traditionsestablishedthrough time and by successivemonarchies. There are the summermonths atBalmoral, Christmas at Sandringham, annual balls and charity events atBuckingham Palace, sailing on the HMY Britannia, state visits, and gardenparties.Theroyalfamilystilleatsseasonallyandwithmuchofthefoodsourcedfromitsownsignificantlandholdings.Theyaredevotedtogamecaughtonthegrounds, berries picked from their own bushes, and dairy products from theirownherds.

TheroyalcalendaralsodetailstheQueen’smovementsthroughouttheyear.She and the rest of the royal family are at various times in residence atBuckinghamPalace,SandringhamCastle,WindsorCastle,andBalmoralCastlewithadditionaltripstoScotlandandontheroyalyacht.

Thisallmakesforstaffingchallenges.Becausetheroyalfamilymovesfromplacetoplacesooften,therearehouseholdstoopenandcloseup,shipmentsofprovisionsfromonecastleorcountrytothenext,andpersonneltravelingtoandfroallthetime.Butallthismovementofpeopleandgoodshasbeenhoneddowntoascience.

BuckinghamPalace is not just the official London residence of theQueenand the royal entourage, but is also the administrative headquarters of themonarchy.Sothefullworkingsoftheroyalfamilyandthemonarchy’sactivitiesin theUKandabroadarecoordinated through thepalacewithquiteamilitarylevelofprecision.

That air of precision extends to every aspect of managing the royalhousehold. Two weeks after I began working, I was sent from London toBalmoral Castle where the royal family was vacationing. I was preppingvegetableswhen the head chef cameover and said, “Right.Now letme showyouhowtopreparetheQueen’scarrots.”Hethentookthreeverylargecarrots,peeled,trimmed,andtoppedthem.Heslicedthemlengthwiseandinhalfsoeachcarrotwasofequallength.Thecarrotswerethenplacedinawhitepaperbagandthebagwasfoldedshut.“There,”hesaid.“Thatishowyoudoit.”

“But Chef,” I asked, now totally bewildered, “aren’t they a bit large anddon’tweneedtocookthem?”

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“Large?” His eyebrows shot up. “Of course not. They’ll be fine for thehorses.Anddon’tevercutthemanyshorterthanthatorshewillblameuswhenthedamnhorsebitesherfingers.”

TheQueen’sfootman—or“dogboy”ashewasknownaroundthepalace—picked up the carrots from the kitchen and placed them in a pocket of theQueen’sridingcoat.Aftereachride,shewouldfeedthemtoherhorse.IthinkitissafetosaythattheQueen’shorseshavenoideathatcarrotshaveaskin.

This regimented approach took getting used to. Cooking is a creativeendeavor, andmost chefs chafe atmaking the same dish over and over againunchanged. Imade thousandsof sconesduringmy timewith the royal family,and I had tomake sure that each batchwas exactly like the last one.Tobe asuccessful palace chef you must bring that professional discipline to the jobwhethercookingasingledinnerfortheQueen,anelegantmulticoursedinnerforahundred,oralas,asIdidmanytimes,amidmorningsnackforthehorses.

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ROYALTEASCONES

SconeswerepartoftheQueen’sdailyteaservice.Theywereservedreligiouslyeachday,alternatingbetweenfruitsconesorplainscones.Thisroutinewassofixed that eachMondaymorning the head chefwould call the seniorweekendcheftofindoutwhat“flavor”tomake,eitherfruitorplain.

While theQueen insisted on them as part of her tea, I suspect she didn’tactuallylikescones.Isaythatbecauseshenever,ever,atethem.Instead,attheendofherdailytea,theQueenwouldtakeasconeandcrumbleitontothefloorforthecorgis.Itseemsthedogsquitelikedthem.

Don’tbeputoffthough.Thesesconesarereally,reallygood.Servedwarmwith lots of butter. theymake an absolutely tender, crumbly treat.When theycool, split them in half and fill with strawberry preserves, clotted cream, orwhippedcream.Youwillhavenoproblempolishingthemoff.

3¼cupsall-purposeflour½cupplus1tablespoonextra-finegranulatedsugar

4teaspoonsbakingpowder

1stick(½cup)unsaltedbutter,softened1egg,beaten¾cupto1¼cupsmilk1cupraisins(optional)

1beateneggyolkforglazing

1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Combinetheflour,sugar,andbakingpowderinalargebowl.Cutinthebutterandstiruntiltheflourmixtureresemblesfinebreadcrumbs.Makeawellinthecenterofthemixture,andaddthebeateneggandabout¾cupofmilk.Addtheraisinsnowifmakingafruitscone.Bringthemixturetogetherwithametalspoon,makingsureyoudon’tovermixandtoughenthedough.Ifthemixtureseemsdryandcrumbly,add

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moreoftheremainingmilk,butadditgradually.Youwantlightlybounddoughthatisneithertoowetnortoodry.

2.Lightlydustacuttingboardwithflour,androlloutthedoughtoabout1inchthick.Then,usinga2-inchroundcookiecutter,cutoutabout16sconesandplacethemonanungreasedbakingsheetabout1inchapart.Brushthetopsofthesconeswiththebeateneggyolk.

3.Bakefor15to20minutes,oruntilsconesarelightlycolored.Servehotortransfersconestoacoolingrack.

MAKES16SCONES

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CHAPTERONE

TheRoyalYear

The royalcalendar is set ayear inadvanceand isquitedetailed.This levelofadvance planning is only possible because there are certain activities that arerepeatedyearafteryearbytheQueenandtheroyalfamily.Inbroadstrokes,astandardcalendarlookslikethis:

LateDecemberuntilearlyFebruary:ChristmasandtheNewYearatSandringhamCastleFebruary:StatevisitsinlateFebruary.DuringthethirdweekastatebanquetforonehundredfiftypeopleisheldatBuckinghamPalace.

Marchtomid-May:WindsorCastle.TheQueen’sbirthdayisApril21andisalwayscelebratedatWindsor,asistheEasterholiday.TheRoyalWindsorHorseShowisheldduringthesecondweekofMay.

LateMaytomid-June:BuckinghamPalace.TheQueenattendstoaffairsofstate,includinginvestituresandstatevisits.InMay,theChelseaflowershowandtheanniversarycelebrationoftheQueen’sbirthdayareheld.TheDuke’sbirthdayisonthetenthofJune.

LateJune:WindsorCastleandacelebrationoftheRoyalAscothorseraces.LeavingWindsorCastle,theQueenspendsthelastweekofJuneinEdinburgh,Scotland,atHolyroodPalace.Agardenpartyandathistleluncharealwaysontheschedule.

July:GardenpartiesatBuckinghamPalaceEarlyAugust:AboardHMYBritanniaforregattaracingandsailing

amongtheWesternIsles.AugustuntilearlyOctober:VacationatBalmoralCastleinthe

highlandsofScotlandNovember:BuckinghamPalaceandalargeannualreceptionfortheDiplomaticCorpswithasmanyasfifteenhundredpeopleinattendanceEarlyDecember:BuckinghamPalaceforstatevisitsandbanquets

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Asachef, I tend toassociate the royal residenceswithseasonsandfood. IthinkofBuckinghamPalaceastheworkadaylocationduringlatefallandwinter,aswellasearlysummer.Tomethepalaceconjuresupimagesofheartystews,refined banquets, private lunches and dinner parties, and large summer teaparties.

SandringhammeansChristmasandEnglishtrifle,chocolateYulelog,pâtés,and terrines.Sandringhamalsohas awonderful fruit farmwithnearly seventyacresofamazingapples—LaxtonsFortunes,Cox’s,andBramleys—whichmakethebestapplepies.

WindsorCastle is linkedwith thearrivalofspringandearly lettuces,peas,asparagus,andrhubarbreadytoharvest.

Balmoral is forever associatedwith high summer holidays, ice cream, andberrypicking.Thegardensare fullof raspberries, strawberries,gooseberries—red and green—and frais de bois, which are little woodland strawberries thatonlyneed a jugof heavy creamand a bowl of caster sugar to grace the royaltables.

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Queen’smenu

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QueenMother’smenu

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DukeofEdinburgh’smenu

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PrinceCharles’smenu

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PrinceAndrew’smenu

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PrincessDianna’smenu

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CHAPTERTWO

BuckinghamPalaceWinterBallsandSummerTeas

BuckinghamPalaceisoneoftheworld’smostfamousbuildings.Morethanfiftythousandpeoplewalk through its doors eachyear to attendbanquets, lunches,dinners, receptions, and royal garden parties. It is an official residence ofHerMajesty,QueenElizabethII,andshespendsaboutthirtyweeksthereeachyear.It also is the central hub of royal administration, supporting the day-to-dayactivitiesanddutiesoftheQueenandherfamily,nomatterwheretheymightbe.The palace is the venue formany royal ceremonies, including state visits andinvestitures,andisusedregularlybytheQueenandfamilyforofficialandstateentertaining.

Themostactive timesatBuckinghamPalaceare lateFebruaryandMarch,July,November,andthefirstpartofDecember.InthesummertheQueenhostsgarden parties on the palace grounds and in the winter the palace becomes aglitteringbackdropforstatevisitsandreceptions.

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Thechefsintheroyalkitchenssupportallofthisactivityaswellastheday-today feedingof the royal familyandasmanyas threehundred full-timestaffemployees. Located on the ground floor, the kitchen has beenmodernized byQueen Elizabeth.While it’s not the cutting-edge kitchen youwould find in atopnotchhotel,itiscertainlymorethanadequatetomeetthepalace’sneeds.Asa result of modernizing the kitchen, the enormous number of cooks requiredduring Queen Victoria’s time (as many as sixty-five if it was a large statebanquet)isnolongernecessary.

Today, if theQueen is in residence, there are usually around ten chefs ondutyintheroyalkitchen.Notthatsheneedstenchefstocookdinnerforher.ItisjustthatthenumberofstaffandsupportpersonnelincreaseswherevertheQueengoes and unfortunately they regularly get hungry. Buckingham Palace has abrigadeoftwentychefs,andthesechefsprovideround-the-clockserviceatallofthe royal residences throughout thecountry,orabroad,wheneveramemberoftheroyalfamilyisinresidenceatthatlocation.Likeahotel,BuckinghamPalaceneverreallycloses.

OnmywaytohuntforwildmushroomsonBalmoralCastlegrounds

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Theroyalpalatehasn’tchangedmucheventhoughEnglandhasgrownmoreculturallydiverse.Although thePrincesWilliamandHarrycountpizzaamongtheirfavoritefoods,theyalsoadoregame,roasts,andtypicalBritishfoodsuchascottagepie.PrinceCharlesisaveryhealth-consciouseaterandenjoyswholegrains,organicvegetables,andsimplypreparedfishandmeats.Infact,heoncebroughtAntonioCarluccio,awell-knownItaliancookinLondon,toBalmoraltosearch for andbottlewildmushrooms.Carluccio iswellknownasanamateurmycologist,andthroughhimIlearnedtoidentifyandusecèpes,knowninItalyas“porcinimushrooms.” IquicklyunderstoodwhatPrinceCharleshadknownforalongtime:Balmoralisanabsolutetreasuretroveofwildmushrooms.

Unfortunately for Prince Charles, the Queen’s head chef, Peter Page, alsoknew that cèpes grew abundantly on the property, and he was adamant theprince’schefswerenotgoingtotakethem.Heorganizedmushroomraidsacrossthe estate before PrinceCharles’s entourage arrived atBalmoral. The prince’schefsweremore than a little irritated.Ohwell, chalk one up for theQueen’smen, I thought.We choppedmushrooms up to use in soup and used them asgarnishesforallthewonderfulgameontheestate.

If I had to define the style of royal British cuisine, I would be forced toacknowledge that classical French influences are still verymuch in evidence,especiallyforstatebanquetsandballs.ThisispartiallybecauseQueenElizabethhasthefinalsayonallmenus,andthefoodatBuckinghamPalacereflectsherpreferences.

FromKitchentoTable

Distanceswithinthepalacetakesomegettingusedto.Infact,thekitchenislocatedafullmileandaquarterawayandseveralfloorsundertheQueen’sdiningrooms.So,gettinghot food to its finaldestinationhasalwaysbeenan issue. The current method for transporting food from one end of thepalacetotheotheristheuseofheatedtrolleysthatarerolledquicklyfromthekitchentotheirfinaldestination.Thetrolleysholdcoveredsilverdishesoutfittedwithanextrawaterbathbeneathtokeepfoodwarm.

It is thefootmen’s job to transportmealsaround thepalace; theyhavetheir routesmappedout.Forexample, if theyaredeliveringameal to theQueen, the footmen will take an L-shaped route from the kitchen to the

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Queen’sprivateelevator.Thiselevatorismadeavailableduringmealtimesforthesolepurposeofgettingthefoodtoherquickly.

Oddlyenough, sometimes the food isn’t all located in the sameplace.Forexample,ifPrinceEdwardwantsasimplemealofscrambledeggsandtoast, the footman picks up the eggsmade in the royal kitchen and then,aboutonehundredyardsdownthecorridor,hastopickupthetoastmadeinthe coffee room kitchen. The military execution of it all would bring tomindagreatMontyPythonsketch.

ThoughmealsatBuckinghamPalacecanbesimple,therawingredientsarealwaysfirstrate.Inadditiontoamazinggameandfish,whichtheroyalestatesprovide directly, the palace maintains special long-term relationships withpurveyors who provide goods at a discounted price to the royal family inexchangeforthe“royalwarrant.”Theroyalwarrantistheroyalsealandcanbeexhibiteddirectlyonchosenpurveyors’packaging.It’sagreatmarketingtool.

One major purveyor is Hyams & Cockerton, who supplies fruit andvegetables for the royal family.Theyhandpickproduce for thepalace and thequality is incredible. Sogood, in fact, thatwhen the chefs have to packup totravel toBalmoral orSandringham, or even abroad,H&Cproduce is loadedalongwithourstandardsupplies.WeshippedquitealotoffoodtoBalmoralinparticular. Each day fresh supplies were dropped off at Buckingham Palace,checkedbythechefonduty,andthenreadiedfor thenightly trip toBalmoral.ThedeliveriesfromLondonwereanecessity.Afterall,youcouldneverserveanunripepeartotheroyaltable.

WhatWilltheQueenEat?

While the Queen does have the final say on what she wants to eat, shedoesn’tspendhertimescribblingupmenusandshoppinglists!WhenIwasatBuckinghamPalace,ChefPage,theheadchefatthetime,woulddevelopa list of menu suggestions each day to present to the Queen for herapproval.Page,aportlymanwholikedadrinkortwo,wasanendlessfontof information and talent. He had served the Queen for more than fortyyearsandwasoneoftheveryfewstaff that theQueenwouldcallbyfirstname.

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Eachdayhewouldwritehis suggestionsdown in a red leather-boundbookwith“MenuRoyal”embossed ingoldon thecover.As soonasonebookwasfilled,itwassenttotheroyalarchivesandanewbookwassenttothe kitchen as a replacement.When Iwas the chef for PrincessDiana atKensingtonPalace,Iintendedtocontinuethe“MenuRoyal”tradition.Afterall, she had a menu book—all of the royals did—until she and PrinceCharlesseparated.PrincessDiana,however,objected.Shethoughtitwasawasteofmoneyandasked,“Whywouldanyoneinyears tocomewant toknowwhatIate?”InsteadIkeptplain,cheapnotebooksformyfilesandtothisdayIhaveheldontothelastone.

DAY-TO-DAYLIFEQueen Elizabeth really treats Buckingham Palace as “the office” and spendsmostofhertimethereasadutyratherthanbychoice.It isclearthatshecan’twait for Friday afternoon when she can head off to Windsor Castle for theweekend.

AtBuckinghamPalace, thedaily routine formeals is set:breakfastat9:00a.m., lunch promptly at 1:15 p.m., tea at 5:00 p.m., and dinner at 8:15 p.m.BreakfastisalmostnoworkforapalacechefastheQueenisquitehappywithtea and toast. Lunch and dinner are more elaborate, especially if guests areinvitedin.

Cookingmeals for royalty,evensimplemeals,connotesahighstandardofpreparationandservice.EvenifIhadtomakeasimplecoldlunch,itstillneededtobegracefullyandbeautifullypresented.Agoodexamplewasapopularfirstcourse dish of tomato and dill mousse with lobster. Princess Diana routinelyrequestedit,anditwasasdeliciousasitwaselegant.Therecipeisenrichedwithsourcream,heavycream,andmayonnaise.WhenImovedacrosstoKensingtonPalaceasDiana’schef,thismoussewasoneofthefirstrecipesIreworkedintoanonfatversion.Botharegood.

WhoFootstheBill?

Thecostofthemonarchyisbornebythestate.So,whileroyalentertainingmay be lavish, the day-to-day royal meals for family and staff are quite

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simple. This trend toward simpler meals is partly a reflection ofcontemporaryBritishsociety,butisalsoinfluencedbyeconomics.Truthbetold, themodern royal family isonabudget.Thecostofmaintaining themonarchy was roughly one dollar per British citizen last year. That is agreat “deal” for the British if you consider how many tourists come toEngland to see Buckingham Palace, Windsor Castle, and other royalattractions.Themonarchy todaybrings in significant tourismand a lot ofcash.

Theroyalfamily lovedall typesoffishdishes,aswellasstewandroastedvegetables.Wewouldservetheseoftenforsmalllunchesordinners.Aschefsintheroyalkitchens,ourculinarymantrawasthatthefoodshouldtastewonderful,lookbeautiful,beofsuperiorquality,andputguestsatease.

STATEVISITSANDSTATEBANQUETSThereareanumberofspecialeventsthathappeneachyearatBuckingham

Palace.Themostcomplexeventsarestatevisitsand the largestevent (besidesgardenparties)istheannualdiplomaticreception.

The goal of state visits is to help further political or economic solutionsbetween Great Britain and other countries, as well as to cement relationshipswith longtimeallies.Theyare an importantpolitical functionof themonarchyand are executedwith an eye tomodern comfort and a serving of royal style.WhenthePresidentoftheUnitedStatesmakesaroyalvisittoBritain,heandhisentourage aremetby theQueen and are transportedby royal carriage throughthestreetsofLondontoBuckinghamPalace.

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Medalspresentedtomebyvisitingheadsofgovernmentatstatebanquets

At the palace the guests attend an arrival lunch that usually serves fifty tosixtypeople.Thatevening,aformalbanquetisheldandtheguestlistexpandstoincludedignitariesandbusinesspeople.Thedinnersare served inanenormousballroom with opulent silver or gold place settings and the meal typicallyincludesfiveorsixcourses.Whenthetablesarecompletelysetup,theballroomisaregalsight,perfectlyappropriateforaqueen’sdinner.

Statebanquetmenus

For state banquets, a chef really earns his stripes. Menus are carefullychosen,provisionssentbackiftheydon’tmeetthehigheststandards,andsaucesare tastedand retasted.Thegarnishesaloneareelaborateand time-consuming.For example, the banquet tables, when fully set, include large fruit baskets.“Basket” is a bit of a misnomer, since they are all highly decoratedMeissenchina,somefootedandsomenot.Fruithastobecarefullypicked,polished,andgently laid on the china. Even the fruit leaves are individually polished and

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arranged.

Petitfourspastillageongiltplatesreadyforthestatebanquet

Often wemade pastillage dishes. These are a combination of egg whites,powderedsugar,andcornstarch,whichcanbemodeledintoallsortsofshapes.ThepastewouldsometimesbeformedintodelicatelittlebasketsforpetitfourswithaspunsugarBritishflagpoppedonthesideofthebasketandaflagfromthe visiting country on the other.They took an enormous amount of time andcare tomake.Usually I could retrieve a number of these after dinner to reuseagaininthefuture.Isayusually,becausethatwasnevertruewhentheFrenchvisited.Afterpolishingoffthepetitfours,theFrenchassumedthedishwasakintoanashtrayandtheywoulduseittostubouttheircigarettes.

Onastatevisit,eachguestwouldhaveasilverfruitbowl,aboxofchocolates(withtheribboncolorsoftheircountry),andsomecookiesplacedintheirroom.Themoreimportanttheywere,thebiggerthefruitbowlandchocolates.The

onesforthePresident’ssuitearefarleft.

State banquets did have their perks.After each banquet, theQueenwouldsendeachmemberofthestafftwominiaturebottlesofwhiskeyorgin.Itwasher

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wayofsayingthankyou.Mindyou,shewaswise tosendthebottlesafter theevent.Givenhowstressfulstatebanquetswere,itwouldhavebeentootemptinghadwereceivedthebottlesbeforehand.

Asultan’sgifttotheQueen,valuedatover$500,000.Thedessertdishhadamarblebowlsetonthreegildedhorsesandwasdecoratedwithdiamonds,

rubies,sapphires,andemeralds.

Visitingheadsofstateoftengavegiftsaswell.Themostgenerousvisitors?Withoutadoubt,Arabheadsofstate. In truth, theyalsomadeusworkharder.Theybroughttheirownchefstoprovidehalalmeals,theyoftenaskedformealsatallhours,andwehad tomakecertain that specific foodswerebanned fromtheirchefs’workspace.Buttheywereverygenerous.Staffwaspickedtoreceivewatchesandbrooches,footmenweretippedthousandsofpoundsfortheirwork,andthekitchenwouldoftengetaboxofsaffronandmangoesfromthevisitingchef.

TheDiplomaticReceptionAnother annual event at Buckingham Palace is the diplomatic reception.

Each year the Queen hosts one such reception as a way to bring togetherdiplomatsandstafffromeveryembassyinLondon.Asmanyasfifteenhundredpeople typicallyattend,andeachguest isgreetedby theQueen.Now, imagineyouare theQueenandyouhave to sayhello to fifteenhundredpeoplebeforehavingastrongginanddubonnet.It’sarealworkout,believeme.

RoyalPolitesse

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OthermembersoftheroyalfamilyoftenjointheQueenduringdiplomaticreceptions.PrincePhilipandPrinceCharlesareusuallyinattendance,andPrincess Diana often came as well. Even after the separation, PrincessDianawouldattendcertainBuckinghamPalace functions.Shedidn’t loveit,butshewasagoodtrouperallthesame.Once,aSaudiPrincecorneredher, extolling the virtues of different fruit in his country, especiallymangoes. Diana, at a loss for words, told him that indeed she lovedmangoes.Aweek later she luggedaboxofmangoes into thekitchenandploppedthemdowninfrontofme.

“Do you believe this,Darren?” she said. “Thatman sentme awholecrateofmangoesbecauseImentionedthatIlikethem.NexttimeIneedtomentionhowmuchIlikediamonds.”

Thechefsgetaworkouttoo.Craftingindividualcanapésforfifteenhundredis mind-boggling. Assuming six hors d’oeuvres per invited guest, we wouldmake about ten thousand canapés. Typically the hot canapés are much morepopular thanthecoldones.Irememberchuckingmoundsofcoldtomatoaspiccanapésdirectlyintothegarbageoneyear.TheuseofaspicisaholdoverfromtheVictorianerawhenjelliescouldbeusedtopreservefoodwithoutrequiringrefrigeration.Butmoderndignitariesareused tomodern food,and theywoulddevourStiltonandPecanSablewithPoachedPearorCroquesMonsieurswhilelobstertailspreservedinaspicwerereturnedtothekitchenuneaten.

TeatimeandGardenTeaPartiesTheQueenisespeciallyfondofteatime.IfIwasmakingteafortheQueenandPrince Philip, which was quite often, generally there would be two differenttypesofsandwicheswithdifferentfillings.Thebreadwaseitherwholewheatorwhite,slicedverythinlyandcutintosquareswiththecornerstrimmedtocreateakindofoctagon.IrememberearlyoninmycareerIaskedafellowchefwhyitwasnecessary to trimcornersoffof tea sandwiches. Iwas told tonever cut asquareorarectangle.ItlookedtoomuchlikeacoffinanditmeantyouwishedtheQueenill.Iwasmindfulnevertomakethatmistake.

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InstructionsfromtheDuchessofYork’smenubook

Therewerealsoscones,one largecake,andonesmallcakesuchasa fruittartoréclair.Thefillingsmightvaryabitorthefruitusedwouldchangefromseasontoseason,butessentiallytheteamenuwasthesameeveryday.

EveryonehasafavoritecakeandtheQueenofEnglandisnoexception.Hersischocolatecake,eitherwithaspongeorbiscuitbase.Onceachocolatecakeismade,theQueenhasitbroughtoutagainandagainatteatimeuntilitisgone.Ihave evenpackedhalf a cake into “Ascot boxes” and sent it alongwith otherprovisionstoWindsorCastlefortheQueen’steasduringtheweekend.

TheQueenrequestschocolatespongecakeeachyear forherbirthday. It is

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basicallyadarkbittersweetchocolategenoisecutintothreelayersandeachlayerfilledwitharichchocolateganache.AndImeanrich.Theganacheismadewithcream from theWindsor dairies. To complete the cake, more hot ganache ispouredoverthetopandallowedtorundownthesides.Itisexcessiveandutterlydelicious.Anyleftoverganache iscooledandused todecorate thecakewithasimple“HappyBirthday.”

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ThemenuoftheweddingbreakfastforPrinceAndrewandSarahFerguson,theDuchessofYork

Evenmore delicious, inmy opinion, is the chocolate biscuit cake.All thechefslovedit.Onenightafairlynewchefmusthavethoughtitwashisbirthdaywhenachocolatebiscuitcakewasreturnedfromteatimewithonlyatinywedge

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missing.Well, he decided to skip dinner and instead ate his way through thecake,piecebypiece,untilitwasfinished.Thenextday,theheadofpastrywasfrantically lookingfor thecake,questioningeveryoneuntil finally thesheepishgluttonadmittedhisguilt.Wequicklymadeanewcakeandjustbeforeitleftthekitchen, I cut out a tiny wedge. I am not sure if the Queen ever noticed thesubstitution.

Of course the Queen was not the only person who liked teatime. Mostmembersoftheroyalfamilylikedagoodafternoontea.HerRoyalHighnesstheDuchess ofYork, Sarah Ferguson, loved elaborate afternoon teas. She had anoffice in Buckingham Palace and regularly held teas for twelve or more. Inaddition to the regular tea provisions, she would add several more cakes andsausage rolls. She loved Battenburg Cake and I once sent up an absolutelyperfectBattenburgCakethatIhadmadeforhertea.Itwasreturneduneatenwithinstructions not to serve her “store-bought” tea cakes again. A bit of abackhandedcomplimentIsuppose!Ohwell,thechefsenjoyedit.

GardenTeaPartiesGarden parties have been hosted by the English monarchy since the late-

1800s.TheQueenthrowsfourgardenpartiesayear,allbutoneatBuckinghamPalace. The first party takes place in mid-July. Annual attendance at all thegardeneventscombinedtypicallyexceedsthirtythousandpeople.InvitationsaresentoutbytheLordChamberlain’sofficetogovernmentgroups,charities,anddiplomaticorganizations.Dressisimportant:menareexpectedtowearmorningcutaways,eveningsuits,ormilitaryuniforms,andladiesweardressesandhats.You can also wear a national costume, like a Scottish kilt. The parties are agenuine “thank you” from theQueen to charitable organizations thatwork sohard throughout the year. Garden parties are extremely popular and provideordinaryBritonsachancetofeellikearoyal,ifonlyforafewhours!

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ChristmasBall

OfallmyfavoriteeventsatBuckinghamPalace,IlovedthestaffChristmasBallthebest.AndnotjustbecauseitmeantIdidn’thavetocook!Youwereallowed to attend every other year and could bring one member of yourfamily.Over the years, I squiredmymom, grandmother, sister,mywife,Wendy,andononememorableoccasion,myfather.

Iguessitcouldbeseenasabitsingulartotakeyourdadtoaball.Butmy fatherwas keen tomeet PrincessDiana and by then she and I had aquiteproperbutsweetfriendship.Infact,Ihadboastedtomydadthattheprincessknewmequitewell.Shehadthelastlaughthough.WhenshemetmydadshepretendedtohavenoideawhoIwas.Myfatherlookedatmeinconsternation. Laughing it off, Diana asked me to dance and asked myfather toholdherpurse.Offwewent todanceandmyfatherstood there,purseinhand,enchanted.

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CentralLondonseemstogobackintimeongardenpartydays.Thegoldandblack palace gates swing open at three o’clock to allow all of these quiteformallydressedguests toenter—throughthefirstarch,across thequadrangle,into the palace, and out onto the manicured lawns of the Queen’s backyard.Thereisjustenoughtimetogetatable,grabacuportwoofEarlGreyteaandabitofsandwichorcake,beforegettingagoodplaceinlineastheclockstrikesfour.ThenHerMajestyandotherroyalsmaketheirwaytothegardenstepsandthemilitarybandplaysthenationalanthem.

TheQueenandthejuniorroyalsheadfortheroyalteatentinthefarright-handcornerofthegarden;theyalltakeadifferentrouteinordertoshakehandswiththeirguests.BythetimetheQueenreachestheroyaltentsheisgratefulfora pot of Earl Grey and a scoop of homemade ice cream. If Her Majesty isespecially hungry, she can choose from a variety of sandwiches and fillings,largeslicesofcake,jamtartsorfruittarts,éclairs,icecream,fourdifferentkindsof cakes including scones, and iced coffee. The large cakes might vary, butusuallyincludeaspongecakewithcreamfilling,achocolatecake,alemoncake,oragingercake.

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CROQUESMONSIEUR

This is a traditional appetizer that we probably made for just about everyreception.Everyonelovedthem,whichisnosurprise.Afterall, theyarelayersofsmokedhamandGruyèrecheesesandwichedbetweenheavilybutteredbreadandthenbroiled.Whatisnottolike?

1sticksaltedbutter,softened

8slicespaindemieorfirmwhitebread8ouncesGruyèrecheese,16thinsliceswithrindremoved8(1-ounce)slicessmokedham

1.Preheatthebroiler.Butterthebreadslicesonbothsides.Top4slicesofbreadwith8thinslicesofGruyère,followedbyall8slicesofham.FinishwiththeremainingGruyèreontopoftheham,andthenlaytheremaining4breadslicesontopofthecheese.

2.Putthecroquesmonsieurontoabakingsheet,andplacethebakingsheetunderthebroilerfor5to8minutes,oruntilthebreadturnsgoldenbrownandcrispy.Flipthesandwichesovercarefully,andbrowntheotherside.Removethefoursandwichesfromthebroiler,trimoffthecrusts,andcuteachsandwichintoeightpieces.Serveimmediately.

3.Ifyouplantomakethecroquesmonsieuraheadoftime,theycanbelaidbetweenlayersofparchmentpaperandrefrigerated.

MAKES32COCKTAIL-SIZEPORTIONS

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GLENEAGLESPÂTÉ

This was a popular first course at Buckingham Palace and a favorite of theQueen’s forprivatemeals. It isa combinationof threepâtés: smoked salmon,smokedtrout,andsmokedmackerel,whicharelayeredonsmokedsalmonfilletsand sliced. Served with Melba toast and horseradish crème fraîche, a smallportiongoesalongwayinflavor.Itkeepswellandcanbemultipliedtoserveacrowd.

2poundssmokedsalmon,thinlyslicedanddivided

1poundsmokedtrout

6sticks(1½pounds)unsaltedbutter,softenedanddivided1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshdill1teaspoonlemonjuice1poundsmokedmackerel

1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshchives

1.Linea1-poundloaftinorpâtéterrinewithplasticwrap,overlappingthesides.Takehalfofthesmokedsalmonandlinethesidesandbottomoftheloaftin.Overlapthetopedgebyabout2inchessothatthesalmonwillfoldoverandcoverthefillingonceitisinplace.

2.Removeanddiscardtheskinfromthesmokedtrout,andthenplacethetroutinafoodprocessorandchopfinely;add2sticks(½pound)ofthebuttertotheprocessor.Blendagainuntilsmoothandaddthechoppeddillandlemonjuice.Carefullyspreadthetroutmixtureintotheloaftinontopofthesmokedsalmonandsmooththetop.Placetheloaftininthefreezerfor10minuteswhileyoupreparethesecondlayer.

3.Cleanthefoodprocessorbowl.Removeanddiscardtheskinfromthemackerel,andplacethemackerelintothefoodprocessor;chopfinely.Add2

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sticksbutterandblenduntilsmooth.Taketheloaftinfromthefreezer,andspreadthemackerelmixturesmoothlyontopofthetroutlayerwithoutdisturbingthetroutlayer.Placetheloaftininthefreezerfor10minuteswhileyoupreparethethirdlayer.

4.Cleanthefoodprocessorbowlonceagainandplacetheremainingsmokedsalmonintothefoodprocessorandchopfinely.Addtheremaining2sticksofbutterandthechivestotheprocessor,andblendagainuntilsmooth.Removetheloaftinfromthefreezer,andspreadthesmokedsalmonontopofthemackerel.Smooththetop.

5.Foldtheoverlappingpiecesofsmokedsalmonoverthetoplayerofthesalmonspread.Coverthetopwithplasticwrap,andrefrigerateovernight,orforatleast4hours,untilfirm.

6.Removetheloaftinfromtherefrigerator,andliftoffthetopplasticwrap.Inverttheterrineontoacuttingboardandremovetheloaftinandadditionalplasticwrap.Slicetheterrineinto1-inchslices.Serveonsaladleavesasanappetizerorslicetheterrineintofingersandserveoncrackersasacanapé.

MAKES8TO10SERVINGS

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Page 53: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

STILTONANDPECANSABLÉSWITHGRILLEDPEARS

This makes a delicate canapé, rich in flavor. The buttery, nutty, sandy basedisintegrates inyourmouth, leavinga smoothcombinationofbluecheeseandsoftpear.

6ounceschoppedpecans

3cupsflour

½teaspoonceleryseeds¼teaspooncayennepepper2sticks(1cup)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature1poundStiltoncheese,crumbled1ripepear

1teaspoonwalnutoil

8ouncesgoatcheese,softened

1bunchfreshdill1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Roastthepecansintheovenonabakingsheetforabout15minutes.Coolandfinelychopthenuts.Inaseparatelargebowl,mixtogethertheflour,celeryseeds,andcayennepepper.Cutinthesoftenedbutter,continuinguntiltheflourmixturehastheconsistencyofbreadcrumbs.Addthecheese,andmixwellintotheflourmixture;thenaddthepecans.Collectthedoughintoaball,andplaceitonasheetofparchmentpaper.Usetheparchmentpapertorollthedoughintoalogabout1inchthick.Chillintherefrigeratoruntilthedoughisfirm.

2.Cutthechilleddoughinto¼-inchroundslices,andplacetheslices2inchesapartonabakingsheetlinedwithparchmentpaper.Cookfor15minutes,or

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untilthesablésjuststarttocolor.Removefromtheoven,liftontoacoolingrack,andallowtocoolcompletely.Thesabléscanthenbekeptinanairtightcontainerforseveraldays.

3.Whenreadytoserve,firstquarterandpeelthepear,removingthecoreandtossingthepearquartersinthewalnutoil.Eitherbroilorgrillthepearquartersuntiltheybegintosoften.Removefromtheovenorgrill,andallowthemtocool.Whilethepearsarecooling,placethesoftenedgoatcheeseinapipingbagfittedwithasmallstartube,andpipearosetteofgoatcheeseoneachsablé.Decorateeachwithathinsliceofthegrilledpear,andtopeachpearslicewithatinysprigofdill.

MAKES50PIECES

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GAELICSTEAKS

When Gaelic is in the title, be prepared for whiskey in the ingredients. Thisrecipe isnoexception. It’sahands-down favoriteof theDukeofEdinburgh’s,whowouldhaveitonthemenueverydayifhehadhisway.Thesauceisaquickpan sauce of mushrooms, shallots, parsley, whiskey, and cream. It is animpressivemealforprivatedinnersandyeteasyenoughfortheDuketomakeonhisowntoimpressguestsatsummerbarbeques.

IaddMarmitetothisdishtogiveitsomedepthandrichness.MarmiteisadarkbrowncoloredyeastextractmadeintheUK.ItisrichinvitaminBandhasa strong,unique, slightly salty flavor.Don’t seasonyour sauceuntil after youhavereduceditandaddedtheMarmite.

1½poundsbeeftenderloin,cutinto4equalsteaksSaltandfreshlygroundpepper4tablespoonsoliveoil,divided1largeonion,finelychopped1clovegarlic,chopped3ouncesBabyBellaMushrooms,washedandsliced

1cupheavycream

½chickenbouilloncube,dissolvedin1cupboilingwateror1cuphomemadechickenbroth¼teaspoonMarmite2tablespoonswhiskey

1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshparsley

1.Letthesteakscometoroomtemperatureandseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Inasautépanlargeenoughtofitallthesteaksinonelayer,add2tablespoonsoliveoil,andheatthepanuntilhot,butnotsmoking.Addthesteaksandcookeachsidetomediumrare,about4to6minutes.Removethesteakstoawarmplateandcover.

2.Inthesamepan,addtheremaining2tablespoonsoliveoil,andwarmtheoil

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overamediumflame.Addtheonionandsautéuntiltranslucent.Stirinthegarlicandmushrooms,andsautéuntilthemushroomssoftenandlosesomeoftheirmoisture.Addthecream,bouillonorbroth,Marmite,andwhiskey.Increasetheheattohigh,andreducetheliquiduntilitformsasaucethickenoughtocoatthebackofawoodenspoon.

3.Removethesaucefromtheheat,andchecktheseasoning.Addtothesauceanyaccumulatedjuicesfromthesteaks.Placeeachsteakonaplate,spoonthesauceontop,andgarnishwiththechoppedparsley.

MAKES4SERVINGS

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SPINACHSOUFFLÉ

Thisspinachsouffléwasusuallyservedasavegetablesidedish,butsometimesitwasservedasdessert.HerMajestywouldwrite“savoury”inthemenubookand thismeant that shewanted to end hermealwith something like a savorysoufflé.ItwouldbeservedpipinghotwithajugofWindsorcreamalongsidetodrizzleintothecenter.

Whenwemade spinach soufflésasa vegetable, thepresentationwasquiteclassic.Wespoonedthemixtureintoeight-inchringmolds,andwhiletheywerebaking we sautéed wild mushrooms in a cream sauce. The finished souffléswouldbeinvertedontoasilverdish,theringmoldremoved,andthemushroomsspoonedintothecenter.Asprinkleofchoppedtarragonwasplacedontopandofftothetabletheywent.

Softenedbutterforgreasing1(20-ounce)bagspinach,orenoughtomake1cupspinachpuree½cupall-purposeflour

4tablespoonsunsaltedbutter

1¼cupsmilk½cupheavycream4eggs,separated½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmegSaltandfreshlygroundpepper1.Preheattheovento400degrees.Liberallybutteran8-inchsoufflédish,leavinga⅛-inchthickringofbutteraroundthelip.2.Dropthespinachintoalargepanofboilingwaterfor30seconds,andthenstrainintoacolander.Refreshthespinachbyplacingitbackintotheemptysaucepanandfillingthepanwithcoldwater.Oncethespinachiscold,strainitagainanddrainoffasmuchwateraspossible.Squeezethespinachinacleanteatoweltoremovetheexcesswater,andthenpureeitinafoodprocessor.Youwillneedtoreserve1cupofthepureeforthesoufflé.Anyextraspinachcanbeblendedwithmayonnaise,garlic,andredwinevinegartomakeasauce

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verte.3.Inaheavysaucepan,addtheflour,butter,milk,andcream,andwhisktogetheroverhighheatuntilthebuttermeltsandathicksauceforms.Removefromtheheat,andwhiskintheeggyolks,nutmeg,andthespinach.Seasonwiththesaltandpeppertotaste,andallowtocoolforabout10minutes.

4.Whisktheeggwhitesuntilstiff,andfoldintothespinachmixuntilallwhiteeggtraceshavedisappeared.Pourintothesoufflédish,andplaceitonthemiddleshelfintheoven.Bakefor20minutes,oruntilthesoufflérisesandisslightlyfirmtothetouchonthetop.

5.Removefromtheovenandserveimmediatelywithajugofheavycream.

MAKES6SERVINGS

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SAGEDERBYDAUPHINOISEPOTATOES

SageDerbycheeseisanoldBritishcheesedatingfromthe1700s.Itwasmadeonlyonceayearandwasconsumed formedicinalpurposesbecause the freshsageaddedtothecheesecurdswasreputedtohavecurativepowers.Overtime,the green-colored cheese became popular at Christmas, in keeping with thedecoratedwreathsandtrees.ItremainsapopularChristmastreat,butisgoodany time of the year. Many reputable cheese shops carry it, but in a pinch,Gruyèremakesafinesubstitute.

2½cupsheavycream,divided5poundslargeredskinpotatoes,peeledandverythinlysliced8ounces(about2cups)SageDerbycheeseorGruyère,grated

1cupgratedParmesancheese

4clovesgarlic,crushedSaltandfreshlygroundpepper

1.Preheattheovento400degrees.Pour½cupheavycreamonthebottomofa13×9-inch,ovalcasserole.Placealayerofslicedpotatoesontopofthecream.Thepotatoesshouldbeabout¼inchthick,andalthoughyoucanslicethembyhand,Ifindamandolindoesagreatjobaswell.Overthefirstlayerofpotatoes,sprinklesomeoftheSageDerbyandParmesancheese,followedbysomeofthegarlicandadustingofsaltandpepperandanother½cupofcream.Continuebuildinglayers(you’llhaveaboutthree),finishingwiththecheeseandtheremainingcream.

2.Coverthecasseroledishwithaluminumfoilandbakeinthecenteroftheovenforabout45minutes.Removethealuminumfoilandbakeforanother30minutes,oruntilthepotatoesaretenderandthetopisgoldenbrown.

3.Removefromtheovenandserveimmediately,orallowtocoolovernightintherefrigerator.Thedauphinoisecanbereheatedgentlyintheovenasawhole,oryoucancutoutshapeswithacookiecutterandreheatonabaking

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sheet.

MAKES8SERVINGS

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RASPBERRYICECREAM

Thisrecipemakesanintenselyflavoredraspberryicecreamthatisdeliciousonitsownandevenbetterwhenspoonedintobrandysnapcornets(recipepage69)andtoppedwithadollopofclottedcream.

4cupsfreshraspberries

1cupplus2tablespoonssugar

1¼cupsheavycream½cupmilk2lemons,juiced1.Pureetheraspberriesinablenderandpourintoalargebowl.Addthesugar,cream,milk,andlemonjuice,andwhisktogether.Strainthemixthroughafinesievetoremovetheseeds.

2.Pourintoanicecreammakertofreeze,followingmanufacturer’sinstructions.Ifyoudon’thaveanicecreammachine,youcanstillmakethisdish.Insteadofpouringthecreamintotheraspberrypuree,whipituntilstiffinsteadandfolditintothemix.Freezeinaplasticcontainerforabout3hours,removefromthefreezer,andstir.Repeatthisprocessseveraltimes,andthenfreezeuntilfirm.

MAKES6SERVINGS

Gardenpartyfare:(fromlefttoright)ChocolateBiscuitCake, Jam and Cream Sponge, Battenburg Cake, teasandwiches,RaspberryIceCream

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BATTENBURGCAKE

BattenburgCakeisatraditionalEnglishteacake,despiteitsGermanname.TheBattenburg family went on to become theMountbatten family, changing theirname to Windsor just before World War I. This cake is still served atBuckingham Palace, especially for garden parties, and was a favorite of theDuchessofYork’s.

4sticks(1pound)unsaltedbutter,softened2¼cupsgranulatedsugar

8eggs

3¼cupsall-purposeflour3to4dropsredfoodcolor(optional)1(12-ounce)jarapricotjam1poundmarzipan

1tablespoonpowderedsugar

1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Greasetwo9-inchcakepans,andlinewithgreasedparchmentpaper.Inamixingbowl,creamthebutterandsugaruntilpale,light,andfluffy.Graduallybeatintheeggsoneatatime.Foldintheflour,andplacehalfofthemixtureintooneofthepreparedcaketins.Quicklyfoldinafewdropsoftheredfoodcolor(anymorewillmakeitadarkerred)intotheremainingcakebatteruntilwellcombined,andthenpourtheredbatterintotheotherpreparedcakepan.

2.Bakefor30minutes,oruntilgoldenbrownandthetopofeachcakespringsbackwhenlightlypressed.Removefromtheoven,andinvertthecakepansontoacoolingrack.Leavetocoolcompletely.

3.Trimeachcakeintotwo7×1×1-inchrectangles,fourinall.Trytoremoveallthebrownouteredgeswhenyouarecuttingtherectangularlogs.Inasmallpan,melttheapricotjamoverlowheattosoften.Brushjamontoallthesidesofeachofthefourpieces.Layaplainlayerofcakewitharedlayerontop.

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Touchingalongsidetheplainlayer,layaredlayerwithaplainlayerontop.4.Rolloutthemarzipantoabout¼inchthickandintoarectanglebigenoughtowraparoundthecake.Carefullylaythecakeononeedgeofthemarzipan,andfoldthemarzipanaroundthecake,moisteningthemarzipanedgeswithalittlewaterandpinchingthemtogether.Trimoffanymarzipanedgesanddiscard.Cutthecakeinto1-inchslicesandserve.

MAKES10SERVINGS

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CHOCOLATEBISCUITCAKE

OK, you have to first understand thatwhen I say“biscuit,” I am referring to“cookies,”not thosebigmuffin-looking thingsyoueatatbreakfast tokeep thebacongreaseoffyourhands!InBritain,biscuitsarecookies...andcookies...well those are things that keep popping up on your computer screens. Thatexplained, this is an amazing no-bake cake best served straight from therefrigerator. I can’t say how long it keeps because I have never had one lastlongerthanfiveminutesbeforeIwasstaringataplateofcrumbs.

Without a doubt, it is theQueen’s favorite tea cake.We had request afterrequestfrompalacevisitorstodivulgetherecipe.Well,I’veheldoutuntilnow.Enjoy!

½teaspoonbutter,forgreasingpan

8ouncesMcVitiesrichteabiscuits

½stick(4tablespoons)unsaltedbutter,softened½cupgranulatedsugar

4ouncesdarkchocolate

1egg,beaten8ouncesdarkchocolate,foricing1ouncewhitechocolate,fordecoration1.Lightlygreaseasmall(suchas6×2½-inch)cakeringwith½teaspoonbutter,andplaceonaparchment-linedtray.Breakeachofthebiscuitsintoalmond-sizepiecesbyhandandsetaside.Creamthebutterandsugarinabowluntilthemixtureisalightlemoncolor.2.Meltthe4ouncesofdarkchocolateinadoubleboiler.Addthebutterandsugarmixturetothechocolate,stirringconstantly.Addtheeggandcontinuestirring.Foldinthebiscuitpiecesuntiltheyareallcoatedwiththechocolatemixture.

3.Spoonthechocolatebiscuitmixtureintothepreparedcakering.Trytofillall

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ofthegapsonthebottomofthering,becausethiswillbethetopwhenitisunmolded.Chillthecakeintherefrigeratorforatleastthreehours.

4.Removethecakefromtherefrigerator,andletitstandwhileyoumeltthe8ouncesofdarkchocolateforicing.Slidetheringoffthecakeandturnthecakeupsidedownontoacoolingrack.Pourthe8ouncesofmelteddarkchocolateoverthecake,andsmooththetopandsidesusingabutterknifeoroffsetspatula.Allowthechocolateicingtosetatroomtemperature.Carefullyrunaknifearoundthebottomofthecakewhereithasstucktothecoolingrack,andtransferthecaketoacakedish.Meltthewhitechocolateanddrizzleontopofthecakeinadecorativepattern.

MAKES8SERVINGS

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EARLGREYTEACAKE

EarlGreyis themostoftenservedteaatBuckinghamPalace.It isablack teaflavored with oil of Bergamot—a fragrant citrus fruit—and named after thesecondEarlGreyin1830.Needlesstosay,italsomakesawonderfulscentedteacakethatstaysmoistforweeks.

1¼cupsboilingwater¾cupEarlGreyloosetealeaves1stick(8tablespoons)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasingthepan1½cupsDemeraraorlightbrownsugar,packed

3eggs

1½cupsall-purposeflour½cupgroundalmonds

4cupsraisins

½cupwalnuts,choppedCrèmefraîche(optional)1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Linealoafpanwithparchmentpaperandgreasetheparchmentwithbutter.Pourtheboilingwateroverthetealeavesinalargebowl,andleavethemixturetoinfuseforatleast1hour.Strainthetea,andsetasidetocool.

2.Creamthebutterandsugaruntillightandsmooth.Graduallyincorporatetheeggs,beatingwellaftereachaddition.Foldintheflourandgroundalmonds,followedbytheraisinsandwalnuts.Addthereservedteaandmixwell.

3.Spoonthebatterintothepreparedloafpan,andbakefor1hour,oruntilatoothpickinsertedintothecentercomesoutclean.Removethecakefromtheoven,andcoolinthepansetonacoolingrack.Whenitiscool,unmoldthecake,slice,andservetoppedwithcrèmefraîche.Anyleftovercakecanbewrappedinplasticwrapandrefrigeratedforuptoseveralweeks.

MAKES12SERVINGS

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JAMANDCREAMSWISSROLL

1tablespoonunsaltedbutter,softened

2tablespoonsall-purposeflour

8eggs,separated1½cupsgranulatedsugarplus½cupforsprinkling1¼cupspotatoflourorpotatostarch1(12-ounce)jarstrawberryjellyorjam1pint(2cups)heavycream,whippedtosoftpeaks1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Linea13×9-inchbakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Lightlygreasethepaperwiththebutter,andthendustwiththeflour.Whisktheeggyolksand1½cupssugarwithanelectricmixerorbeateronhighuntilthemixtureturnspaleincolor,about3minutes.Whisktheeggwhiteswithanelectricmixerorbeateronhighuntilsoftpeaksform.2.Foldhalftheeggwhitesintotheyolkandsugarmixture,followedbythepotatoflour,andthentheremaininghalfoftheeggwhites.Gentlypourthemixtureintothepreparedpanandsmoothouttothecornerswithanoffsetspatula.Bakefor10to15minutesinthecenteroftheoven.Checktoseeifthespongecakeiscookedbygentlypressingthetop;itwillspringbackwhendone.Havereadyasheetofparchmentpaper(atleast13×9-inches)sprinkledwiththeremaining½cupgranulatedsugar.Turnthespongecakeoutontothesugaredparchmentpaperandpeeloffthebakingparchment.Allowthecaketocool.Spreadthecakelightlywiththejamandwhippedcream.Rollthecakeintoatightspiral,usingtheparchmentpapersonottotouchthecake.Sliceandserve.

MAKES8SERVINGS

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RASPBERRYTARTLETS

ThesealwaysseemedtobeonthemenuforlargegardenpartiesatBuckinghamPalace.Ittookforevertoplacethreeraspberriesofthesamesizeoneachtartletandthento“paint”eachonewithraspberryjam.Sometimeswewouldputhalfa strawberry on the tartlets brushedwith raspberry jam, ormandarin orangesegments, brushed with apricot jam. Any leftover pastry can be kept in therefrigeratorforatleastfourweeks.

Pastry

1cupsugar

1stick(½cup)plus6tablespoonsunsaltedbutter1teaspoonvanillapaste

1egg

3¼cupsall-purposeflourFilling1¾cupsmilk¼cupheavycream2wholeeggs

4eggyolks¼cupcornstarch

2teaspoonsvanillapaste

¾cupsugarPinchofsalt

3cupsfreshraspberries

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3cupsfreshraspberries

1(12-ounce)jarseedlessraspberryjam1.Forthepastry,creamthesugar,butter,andvanillapasteinamixingbowluntilpale.Beatintheegguntilcombined.Foldintheflour,formthedoughintoaball,andrefrigerateforatleast1hour.

2.Forthefilling,bringthemilkandcreamtoaboilinasmallheavysaucepanoverahighheat.Placethewholeeggs,eggyolks,cornstarch,vanilla,sugar,andsaltinalargebowl,andwhisktogether.Pourtheboilingmilkandcreamovertheeggmixture,andwhisktogether.Returnthemixturetothepan,andwhiskoveralowheatuntilthemixstartstothicken.Pourintoasmallcontainer,andcoverwithplasticwrap.Refrigerateuntilcold.

3.Rolloutthepastrytoabout⅛inchthickonalightlyflouredsurface,andusingaroundcookiecutter,cutoutcirclestoline24(2-inch)tartletmolds.Bakethepastrycirclesinthecenteroftheovenfor15minutesoruntilgoldenbrown.Allowthepastrytocoolslightlybeforeremovingfromthemoldstoacoolingrack.

4.Spoon½teaspoonoffillingintoeachtartlet,andarrangethreeraspberriessidebysideontopofthefilling.Heatthejaminasmallsaucepanoveralowheat,stirringuntilthejamdissolves.Usingapastrybrush,brusheachoftheraspberrieswiththejam,allowingalittletorunintothetartlet.

MAKES24INDIVIDUALTARTLETS

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ICEDCOFFEE

IcedcoffeewasmadeatBuckinghamPalaceforgardenpartiesandatWindsorCastle forAscotRaces tea. The coffee roommaidwould bring twogallons offreshlybrewedHiggins–blendcoffeetothekitcheneachdayanditwouldchillovernight.ThenWindsorcreamandsugarsyrupwasadded.Thecoffeewasthendecantedthroughamuslinclothintochilledcoffeeurns.

2cupswater

1cupsugar

5cupsverystrongfreshlygroundcoffee,brewedandchilled1¼cupsheavycreamPutthewaterandsugarinasmallpan,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducebyhalf,andremovefromtheheattocoolcompletely.Inalargebowlmixthecoffeeandcream,andstiruntilcombined.Whiskinthesugarsyrup.Strainthroughafinesieveintoalargejugandrefrigerate.Pouroveraglassoficecubestoserve.

MAKES2QUARTS

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CHAPTERTHREE

WindsorCastleRitesofSpring

WindsorCastle,sittingtimelesslyamiditslushacresofparks,lawns,andponds,seamlesslylinksEnglandpastwithEnglandpresent.Itisabreathtakingpieceofcountry.AsyouwalktheenormousexpanseofGreatParkandHomePark,youcan see white swans circling lazily in the Thames or small deer gathering incopsesofancientbentoaks.Menintraditionalwhitesmaybeassemblingforaserious game of cricket. Look up and you’ll see flying above it all the royalstandardiftheQueenisathome.Everythingaroundyouseemstosay,“ThisisEngland!”

Ialwaysenjoyedmy timeatWindsor immensely. Itsbeautyand timeworngracemakeitmuchlovedbyfamilyandstaffalike.Forme,WindsorCastleislinked with memories of springtime in England. HerMajesty begins her stayrightbeforeEasterandthefamilyisatthecastleoffandonthroughthespringandintoearlysummer.ManygreateventstakeplaceafterEaster,includingtwoof my favorites: the Ascot Races and the Royal Horse Show. Also, lots ofwonderful food begins showing up in the spring, including luscious hothousepeaches,fragileanddeeplyflavoredstrawberries—Imeanrealstrawberries thelikes of which we don’t often see anymore—and thick luscious cream culledfrom the Windsor cows that have been pastured outdoors in the meadowssurroundingthecastle.

WindsorAblaze

Windsor Castle is old, even by English standards. It has been a royalresidence for almost one thousand years. But nothing stays the sameforever,andsoWindsorhaschangedwith time.Somechanges reflect thedesiresofpreviousroyaltyortheslowwearingeffectsofnature.Andsomechangeshappenfromunforeseendisaster.Iwitnessedoneofthosedisasters,

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forIwaslivingonthegroundsofthecastleonNovember20,1992,whenafire broke out in the Queen’s private chapel in the northeast part of thecastleandrapidlymovedtoengulfthestateapartments.

The castle’s part-time twenty-man fire brigade was dispatched alongwithalocalfirehouse.ThefirequicklyspreadtotheBrunswickTowerandthe Royal Berkshire Fire and Rescue Service were called in, plus anadditionaltenfirehouses.Eventhatprovedtobeinsufficient.Bytheendofthedaythirty-ninefirehouseswereon-sitebattlingtheblaze.

Irememberitquiteclearly.IhadjustarrivedatWindsorandsettledintomyapartmentatFrogmoreStables.ItwasmidafternoonwhenIgotaknockonthedoorfromoneofthegardenerswhohadbeensenttorallythestafftothe castle. Word came that a fire had broken out and all hands wererequired. It wasn’t until I was outside and saw all the smoke that Irecognized how serious a fire itwas.HerMajestywas in themidst of it,directing staff as they gathered up as many irreplaceable treasures aspossible.Ibeganhelpingthefiremen,unloadingspentoxygentanksoffoffiremen’sbacksandputtingonfreshonessotheycouldgobackinside.

AtsomepointtheQueen’spage,PaulWhybrew,cameupandaskedmetohelpclearouttheQueen’sapartmentinthecastle.ItwasthefirsttimeIhad been inside HerMajesty’s apartment. The corridor leading from herroomstotherestofthecastlehadbeenboardeduptohelpslowthefire’sspread;asyet,therewasn’tanysmoke.Inside,PaulandIstartedpickinguppaintingsandfurnitureandcartingthemoutasquicklyaswecould.

For a time it was just the Queen and me as we packed her personalitems. I could see she was terribly distressed though her demeanor wascalm.At one point I remember she picked up her husband’s slippers andstaredatthem.Iwasstruckbythethoughtthatallthemoneyandpositionintheworldmeansnothingatatimelikethis.

Ithadbeenabeautifulcleardayandthesunsettingovertheragingfirewasarawspectacleforoureyes.

Even before nightfall I knew Windsor Castle had been absolutelydevastated.Itwouldtakefiveyearsandmillionsofpoundstorebuildit.

THEKITCHENATWINDSORCASTLEThere is one main kitchen at Windsor Castle. It’s been updated over time—

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electricityandrunningwaterwereaddedmorethanonehundredyearsago—buttheoriginalstructureremainsessentiallyunchangedanddatesbackhundredsofyears. It is an impressive room towork in—an enormous stone barrel-vaultedroomwithgreatdistancesfromsinkstoovensandhearthsandtorefrigerators.Infact, it takes almost five minutes to walk from the refrigerator to the stoves.Longdistancesseparatethedishwashingarea,larder,silverpantry,linenroom,anddiningroom.Thefarthestisthecoffeeroom.Thelarderchefhastotaketeasandwichesdowneachafternoon, followedby thepastrychefwithsconesandteacakes.Roundtripisabouttwentyminutes.Youcouldhaveeatenallthefoodalongtheway—justtokeepupyourstrength,ofcourse.

CalledtheGreatKitchen,itissplitintothreeparts.Themainkitchentakescareofentreesandvegetables,thelarderkitchenpreparesallthecoldfoods,andthe royalpastrykitchen is responsible forpuddings,pastries, anddessert fruit.Themainkitchen,withaboutadozenchefsworkingfulltime,wasafunplacetowork when court was in residence. We needed that many chefs. Chefs feedeveryone,notjusttheroyalfamily.AtWindsorthatincludesallstaff,stewards,officialsandseniorofficials,butlers,porters,juniorchefs,andhousemaids.Anddon’tforgetthetypists,secretaries,andpersonalassistants.

Inanoddtwistofbureaucraticspaceallocation,WindsorCastlehasitsownfully stockedbar situated right across from thekitchen.With abreakbetweensendinguproyalmealsandgettingstaffmealsout,aseniorchefmightdisappearto the “canteen” for a quick pint . . . and then another. I remember severalWindsor weekends when junior chefs cooked the entire dinner because theseniorchefwasrathertipsyfromaconvivialvisittothecanteen.

At least the kitchens had windows and we could see daylight. The larderkitchenwindowslookoutontotheNorthTerraceandonquietdaysthetouristswerefedsamplesof“royal”food.Goodnessknowshowmanyvacationphotoshavebeentakenwithagaggleofchefsallposingatthelarderwindow!

Thekitchen’sworkbencheswereveryoldandverylow.Solow,infact,thatthechefshadwoodenblocksmadetoholdchoppingboardseighteeninchesoffthe tables. I’mfairly tall; Ialways leftWindsorwithabadbackfrombendingover thosetableswhileworking.Thestovesweretuckedawayin littlealcovesandchefswouldknocktheirhatsoffastheybenttolookintoapan.Ibelieveitwastheworkingkitchenmosthatedbythechefs,butitwastheprettiestandhadthemostcharacter.

Under the larderkitchenwasanotherroomthatweusedasasparekitchenduringbusytimes.Andbeneaththatwasabigemptycave.Itwasanexcellent

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location for staffdiscos. Ibecame the residentDJ, spinningold45 records fortheRoyalHouseholdSocialClub.Dancingwouldstartaroundteno’clock,afterthestaffhadfinishedwork,andwentonsometimesuntilaftertwoo’clockinthemorning.Ofcoursebythenmostofthechefswerehungryagain.

Luckyforuswehadtowalkthroughthekitchenandknewwheretofindthekeytothelarderfridge.ManyanightwecouldbefoundmakingScooby-snack–sizedsandwichestoeatintheBrunswickTowerelevatorbeforeretiringtobed.Thenextmorningwewouldall tiptoearoundthebreakfastchefwhowouldbecursingusunderhisbreathashequicklydefrostedbreadfortheroyalbreakfast.

WINDSORWEEKEND

“Windsorweekends”isthenamegiventothetimetheQueenspendsatWindsorwhensheisactuallyinresidenceatBuckinghamPalace.WhensheheadsuptoWindsorCastle,theBuckinghamPalacekitchensendslotsoffoodalongintwolargeAscotboxes,onewithfoodfromthemainkitchenandanotherfilledwithprovisionsfromthepastrykitchen.AsseniorpastrychefitwasmyjobonFridaytomakesurethateverythingwassettogointothevan.

Did the Queen want apple pie? OK, the sweet pastry was packed and Idouble-checkedthattheGrannySmithappleswereonthefruitorder.Chocolatemousse?IaddedablockofD6darkchocolatetothebox.Coffeemousse?WasthereajarofNestleGoldBlendandsomeliqueurcoffeebeansinthere?Check.BeefWellington?Don’tforgetthepuffpastry.Brandysnapsfortea?I’lljustpopina recipe and thewoodendowels tomold them.PainPruneaux? Ineeded tosendtheVictoriancoppermoldtomakeit inandmoreimportantly,makesurethemoldwasreturnedonMonday.SconesandFridayafternoon teacakesandteasandwicheswereamustandwereaddedalongsidetherestoftheweekend’singredients.Itriednottoforgetanything,butoccasionallytherewasalapseandoverthetelephoneIhadtocalmpanickedchefslookingforamissingingredient.

ProvisioningtheKitchen

ThegreatestassetfordriverswhodeliverfoodtoWindsorCastleisamildtemperament. After a congested twenty-mile drive from London,deliverymenhave tohaulboxesof fooddowna flightof stairs, along thebasementcorridor,andupanotherflightofstairstothekitchen.It’snotso

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badiftheQueenhasn’tarrivedatthecastleyet.Thenthetrucksareallowedinto the quadrangle and closer to the staff dining-room-door entrance tounload.Butif theQueenisinresidence,notrucksareallowedintheyardandprovisionshavetobecarriedinfromevenfartheraway.

SomeofthefoodsthatmadetheirwaytothekitchenweregiftsreceivedbytheQueen.Irememberonesuchgift,adeliveryofripemangoesfromaSaudiprince.OnthisoccasionwehadinstructionsthatthefruitwasfortheQueenandDukeonly.PrinceAndrewhadstoppedinthekitchen,seenthemangoes,andaskedforone.RobertPine,theQueen’spastrychefofthirtyyears,flatlytoldhim,“No.TheyarefortheQueenonly.”

Iputmyheaddownandcarriedon rollingoutpastry.Hadachef justtoldamemberof theroyalfamilyno?PrinceAndrewwasclever, though,andhecameback to thekitchenwhenheknewall the chefswouldbeatbreakfast.ChefPinewasclevereryet.Hehad locked thedoor to the fruitroom.FortheQueenandtheDukeonly—thoseweretheorders.

Windsorweekendsmeantjustafewchefswereneeded.Typicallytherewasaseniorcookinchargeandtwojuniorcooks.Notmanyoftheroyalfamilywereabout,either.MostoftenitwasjusttheQueenformeals,orperhapstheQueenand the Duke. I loved that because it meant I got to cook everything on themenu, not just sauces or desserts, like the more regimented partie system inplace at Buckingham Palace. No, as a senior chef at Windsor Castle I wasresponsibleforitallandthatwasfinewithme.Notsoforsomeotherchefs.

Irememberoneseniorchefwhohatedmakingdessert.Hejustcouldn’tdoit.So,oneweekendhehada juniorchefprepareachocolatesouffléfor theroyaldinner. The poor young chefwas so nervous—especiallywhen he opened theovenandrealizedthesouffléhadn’trisen.Quickasaflashtheseniorcheftookthedishoutoftheovenandtippeditontothefloor.

“Oh dear,” he said, “accidents do happen—they’ll have to have ice creaminstead.” And with a smile he walked off to inform the page of the “souffléaccident.”Farbetter theQueenwas toldaboutakitchenaccident than tohavehercomplaintotheheadchefinLondonabouthavingbeenservedaless-than-perfectsoufflé.

Depending on the skill (and sobriety) of the senior chef, the junior chefswererarelyallowedtopreparetheroyalfood.Maybetheywoulddoasaladorperhapsvegetables. Itwas reallyanopportunity fora seniorcook to standout

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among the cadres of chefs who work for the Queen. I’ve seen fellow chefs,myself included, get quite puffed up when the page called the head chef inLondononaMondaymorningtosaytheQueenhadreallyenjoyedthefoodthatweekend.

Maids-a-Milking

Thereare twoenormousparks thatsurroundWindsorCastle, theWindsorGreatParkand theHomePark.TheHomePark issplit into twoparksbyname—HomeParkPublicandHomeParkPrivate.ThelatteristheQueen’sprivatebackyard.Thereshecandriveandwalkfreely.ItisalsothehomeoftheWindsordairy,mausoleum,andgardens.

A dairy herd has been part of the castle’s landscape for more than acentury.TodaytherearetwomainbreedsofcattlekeptatWindsor:JerseyandAyershire.Carefullytended,theherdsyieldsomeofthebestmilkandcreamfoundanywhereinEngland.

Milking takes place twice a day in the royal dairy. The dairy is arelativelynewfeatureatWindsor.Itwasbuiltin1858underthedirectionofPrinceAlbert,usingadvancedtechnologyforitstime.Themaininnovationistheuseofdoublewallstokeepthedairycool,amustinthedaysbeforerefrigeration.Although themilking process has changed over the years—it’snolongerdonebyhand—thecreameryremainsthesame.

Ithasabeautifulpaintedceilingsupportedbysixpillarsandallof thewalls are decoratedwith ornate tiles. Two tables covered in thickmarblestretch the length of the room and more tables surround the edge of theroom.All the original separatingbasins are in place and scattered aroundthemarble tops. The original cream jugs are also still there, which wereusedtotransportcreamfromthedairytothecastle.

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Milkingbasinslinethedairywalls

WhenIworkedatWindsor,thecreamwasstillseparatedbyhand.Mrs.Williams,themilkmaid,wouldhandspinthemilkagallonatatimeusinganoldseparator.Eightpintsofmilkfromtheroyalcowswouldproduceonepintof royalcream.Usingahandmethod formilk separation tookhours,andif therewereanupcomingstatevisitorgardenparty,wechefshadtogivethedairyadvancewarning.Bothmilkandcreamwereunpasteurized.

Thecreamwassothickthatyoucouldliterallystandaspoonupinit.Itwas even thicker than Cornish clotted cream. Crème brûlée, which theroyals loved,achievedanewlevelwhenmadewithWindsorcream.Evenvanilla ice cream turned into a voluptuous treat. The extramilk is turnedintocheesemadeinlittlethree-inchpotssetinpolystyreneboxes.TheroyalfamilylovesitandtheyhaveitsentuptoBalmoralduringthesummerforthelunchtimecheeseboards.

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DecorativestatuarydisplayedalongwithantiquepitchersintheHomeParkPrivatemausoleum.Noticethebeautifulhand-paintedtiles.

Therehasbeenmuchdiscussionoflateaboutpasteurization,especiallyinregardtocheesemaking.Cheesemadewithpasteurizedmilkoftenlacksthedepthofflavorfoundinnonpasteurizedor“raw”cheeses.Itwasn’tuntil1990 that the Queen agreed to have the milk pasteurized for “safetyreasons.”Alltheroyalchefsmournedthischangeandweagreedthatsomeofthemilk’sincomparabletastewaslost.

SPRINGTIMEATTHECASTLECertainritualsmarkWindsor’syear.Inearlyspring, theentireWindsorfamilycelebratesEasterwithservicesatSt.George’schapel.InJune,theOrderoftheGarter ceremony takes place, an annual celebration of Britain’s oldest andhighest order of chivalry. For sports enthusiasts there are two big events: theWindsorHorseShowinMayandRoyalAscotinJune.TheQueenalsoallowscelebrity charity cricketmatches to take place inHomePark, and there is theannual fiercely competitivematch between theLordsTavernersTeamand theRoyalHouseholdCricketTeam.

WindsorMulberries

Beginninginthe1200s,Englishkingsdecidedtoattempttheproductionofsilkontheirownlands.Mulberrytreeswereimportedandplantedinhopesof providing silkworms with their favorite food. The cool, damp climatekeptsilkproductionlowandsporadic,eventhoughthetreesflourished.

Stemming from that time, thewalkway along the royal dairy is linedwithbeautifulmulberrytrees.Toachef,mulberrytreesmeanmulberrygin.We would collect ripe mulberries from the ground under the trees, thenwashandsteeptheminginforseveralweeks.Thegintakesontheflavoroftheripeberriesandturnsagorgeouspurplehue.Itisafinedrinkand,inmyopinion, much superior to sloe gin, which we made from pricked sloeberries.Afterwetastedthemulberrygintoensureitwasproperlysteeped(veryimportanttastingthatwas),itwassenttotheroyalcellarstobeused

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forshootinglunchesintheScottishhighlandsandatSandringhamCastle.

EasterTraditionsTheroyalfamilydoesn’tcelebrateEasterpublicly,butenjoystheholidayas

aprivatefamilyaffairwithwonderful traditions.Ofcourse, therearehotcrossbuns toeatonGoodFridayandonShroveTuesday theQueen,asheadof theChurch of England and like the rest of Christian England, has pancakes fordinner,whicharewhatAmericanswouldcall“crepes.”Twohot thinpancakesare filled with vanilla sugar, folded and served with lemon juice and cream.PrincePhilipprefershiscoldandfilledwithraspberryjamandwhippedcream.These are called “Crepes Islandaise” or Icelandic pancakes because he wasvisitingIcelandwhenhefirsttastedthem.

Pancake day meant making around seven hundred crepes for everyone. Itsoundslikealot,butwithcrepepansoneachburner,itwouldactuallygofairlyquickly.Thereisarhythmtomakingthem,andonceIgotintothatrhythmhotcrepesseemedtofilleveryavailablesurfacearoundme.DuringoneChristmasat Sandringham, I was manning my crepe pans on all six burners when theQueenandhersister,PrincessMargaret,cameintothekitchen.TheQueenwasheadedforthelardersectionandPrincessMargaretwasheadedtowardme.

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HappyEasterforchildrenandgrownupsalike

“Lillibet,comelookatthis!”theprincessshoutedtohersister.Ohyes,Ithought,theQueenwillbeimpressedwatchingmewithsixpans.Insteadshesaid,“Isn’tthatcheating?Aren’tyousupposedtotossthem?”Iquicklyputdownmyspatulaandtossedthefirstone.Increasinglynervous,

IcontinuedpouringandflippingandsaidaquickprayerundermybreaththatIdidn’t spill a pancake on the floor. They both continued to watch for a fewminutes,andthensatisfied,movedon.

The Queen gives up chocolate for Lent, so banished are her favoriteBendicksBittermintsandCharboneletWalkerchocolates.OnEasterSundaythechefswouldgotogreatlengthstoprepareallsortsofchocolatetreatstomakeupforthefortydaysofabstinence.Therewerechocolatecakesplusmilkchocolate,white chocolate, and bittersweet chocolate eggs.This trove of chocolate treatswouldbeservedatroyalteatimeforseveraldays,beforefindingitswayintothestaff dining room. The Queen’s birthday is shortly after Easter, and shecelebrates eachApril 21 atWindsorwith another lovely chocolate cake. It’s alarge twelve-inchcake layeredwithandcovered inganache.Asimple“HappyBirthday”ishandwrittenonthetopinroyalicing.

The children in the nursery would also get some sugar mice to eat and

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specialchocolateeggsillustratinganurserytaleorfable.OneyearIdecideditwould be “Hickory, Dickory, Dock.” I labored over a twelve-inch hollowchocolateegg.Insertedintothateggwasasugarmousewithitsheadpokingout,andonthefrontwasaclock’sfacesetatoneo’clock—“asthemouserandown.”PrinceWilliam loved it and immediately bit off themouse’s headwith gusto,transformingtheeggfromarttofoodinrecordtime!Thenannysentitbacktothekitchen,quicklysayingthattheheadlessmousewasdistressingtheyoungerchildren.Igaveitaquickmakeoverwithanewmouseandbackupitwent.Allbetter.

DianaattheCastle

IalwayslookedforwardtoseeingPrincessDianaandtheboysatthecastle.The princess seemed to enjoy the break too.Often shewould spend timevisitinginthekitchen,chattingwithmeaboutthedayandfindingoutwhatwewerecookingfordinner.

TheprincessquitelikedWindsor.Itwasn’ttoofarfromLondonand,asshe once said, she could get “passes” to sneak back to the city. Oneafternoon, I was walking my dogs in the Home Park and saw her carapproaching. She spotted me, stopped the car, rolled her window downabouttwoinches,andsaid,“DoestheQueenknowyoukeepwolvesinherbackgarden,Darren?”

IlaughedandtheyoungerofmytwoGermanshepherdsenthusiasticallyjumpeduptohercarwindow,wagginghertail.Theprincessletoutayelpand said good-bye before quickly driving off. The next morning, theQueen’s page caught up with me and mentioned, “I hear you set yourwolvesontoPrincessDianayesterday.”

Good Lord! I don’t knowwho else she told. I realized then that shewasn’tallthatfondofdogs.

IalwaysenjoyedEastercourtatWindsor.Springwasjustaroundthecorner,theasparagusandlettuceswereinseason,andtherewasalwaysagloriouslambtoroastforEasterlunch.OnSundaystheQueen’sgardenwasopentothepublicandamilitarybandwouldplay.Luckily,myroominBrunswickTowerlooked

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rightoverthegarden.IntheafternoonsIcouldsit therewiththewindowopenand listen to the music float up. Other days I would watch Princess Dianaplayingwiththeboysandhavingfun.ItwasatimelesssceneofEngland.

TheOrderoftheGarterTheOrderoftheGarteristhehighesthonorbestowedonaBritishcitizenas

a reward for loyalty to the Crown, military merit, or to those who havesignificantly contributed toEnglish life.Appointments aremade solely by theQueen,areforlife,andarerestrictedtonomorethantwenty-fourpeopleatanytime.

EveryJune,theOrdergathersatWindsorCastletoinvestanynewmembersand to reaffirm their commitment.A lunch is given in theWaterloo chamber,whichisoneofWindsor’smaindiningrooms.It’sanelegantlydecoratedroomwithadining table set tomatch.The food is servedongiltplates, solid silvercoveredwitha thin layerofgold.Themembersaredressed in traditionalbluevelvetrobesandthemoodisfestive.Fordessert theinviteeshavea traditional“pudding,”oneofmyfavorites:FramboisesSt.George.St.Georgeisthepatronsaint ofEngland andhis image is closely connectedwith theWindsor family.ThedessertmimicstheflagofSt.George,aredcrossonawhitefield.

BeforetheWindsorfirein’92,therewasn’tanelevatorinthekitchen,sothefoodwascollectedonlargemahoganytrayswithafootmanoneitherend.Themiddlefootmencarriedatrayineachhandastheymarchedout.Itlookedlikeatrainwithitscarriagesleavingthekitchens.

AscotWindsor is perfectly suited for sports of all kinds. Some have a long and

venerablehistoryofplayontheWindsorproperties.Othersaremorerecent.ButnonecarrieswithitthecachetoftheRoyalAscotraces.Itattractsaristocratsandroguesalikeandisanimmenselypopularpartofspringtimeatthecastle.EventheQueentakesakeeninterestinAscotsinceshehassomeofherownhorsesrunningintheraces.

Theracestakeplacearoundmid-Juneandracinggoesonforfourdays.Theracetrack,ownedbytheroyalfamily,isnotintheGreatPark,butacrosstown.Myfavoritedayoftheracesis“LadiesDay,”athrowbacktothetimewhenonlymenwereallowed tobetonhorses.Womenshowup inbeautifuldresseswith

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hats to match. I always tried to attend races that day, since my unscientificsurvey ledme tobelieve thatLadiesDayatAscotheldmore stunningwomenpersquareinchthananyplaceonearth.

Ascot is a busy time for chefs. The house is full, with at least fifteen totwentymembersoftheroyalfamily,plusguests,inresidence.Therecanbenodawdlingovermealsbackatthecastle,astheQueenisalwaysinattendanceinthe royalboxwhen the first racebegins at1:30p.m.Lunch startspromptlyatnoon,andthentheroyalretinuepilesintocarsanddriveshalfwaydownthelongwalk,beforegettingoutandswitching tohorse-drawncarriages for the restofthejourneyacrosstown.Makingagrandentrance,theQueen’scarriagearriveson the racetrackbeforemoving into the royalenclosure—thebestboxseats intheworld.

Ascot

TheQueenisnevermoregleefulthanwhenoneofherhorsescomesinfirstatAscot. She is a keen horsewoman and has alwaysmaintained her ownracing stablewithLordPorchester asher racingmanager.Typically thereareabouttwenty-fivethoroughbredhorsesintrainingatanygiventime,andtheQueenknowseachhorse’slineageandracingtimes.

Ascotisaboutracingandbetting.Theroyalfamilydoesplacewagers,though the sums are fairlymodest. Of course, the bets placed are higherwhen one of theQueen’s horses takes to the tracks. It’s easy to spot herhorses.TheQueen’sjockeysstandoutintheirroyalracingcolorsofpurple,gold,andscarlet.

Closebehindwouldbe theAscotvan thatheldall the food the familyandguestswould enjoywhilewatching the races.The vanwas loadedwithAscotboxes, three-foot-tallwooden boxeswith a door on one side. Inside each boxwasroomforsixtraysoffood.Thelarderchefwouldpackthetrayswithatleasttwodifferentkindsofteasandwiches,cutsmallenoughforasinglebite.Iwouldsend three different kinds of tea cakes, scones, fresh ice cream, and the verypopularicedcoffeemixedwithmilk,sugarsyrup,andWindsorcream,servedinahuge thermos flask.Weevenhad a recipe for it so that it tasted exactly thesame for every Ascot and garden party. The tension of horse racing must

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stimulatetheappetite,forInoticedthatverylittlefoodcamebackuneaten.Ascot kicked off the summer for palace chefs. Now we could use

strawberries,cherries,andallthewonderfulsummerfruits.TheQueenwasquiteparticularabouteatingfruitinseason.Wecouldservestrawberriesalmosteverydayduringthesummer—butwoebetideanychefwhoputthemonthemenuinJanuary.

TheWindsorhothousesgrowwhitepeachesthatareabsolutelybeautiful tolookatandevenbettertoeat.Eachpeachishandpicked,wrappedindividuallyingauze,andstoredinspeciallymadecrates.Wecouldcookbruisedpeaches,butthe unblemished beauties were eaten in their pristine state. Forget chocolatedesserts when Windsor peaches were in season—a whole Windsor peach onyourplatewithasilverjugofWindsordairycream—bliss.

WindsorHorseShow

The Horse Show is a classic horse exhibition. There is show jumping—whichtheQueenandPrincessAnnebothtookpartin—Shetlandponyracesand carriage driving. One of the events much loved by the Duke ofEdinburgh is the International Driving Grand Prix, an absolutely hair-raisingcompetitionofsmallphaetonsledbyfour tosixhorses.Thegrandprix is always run individually and against the clock while traveling fullbore through rough terrain.To theviewers it always seems likeamiraclethat horse and driver end up at the finish line in one piece. The Dukeparticipateseachyearintheraceand,evenasamannowinhiseighties,heshowsnosignof“givingupthereins.”

ThestaffatWindsordidnotneedtoattendtheshowtoknowhowtheDukewas ranking.His disposition told all. If hewas in a grumpymood,thenweknewthathewasalotfurtherdownintherankingsthanhethoughthe should be. Same thing when he was competing in yacht races duringCowesWeek onHMYBritannia. The only differencewas that hewouldcomeintoBritannia’sgalleykitchenandrantat thechefs.Goodthing thekitchensatWindsorwerefartherawayfromtheroyalapartments!

TheWindsorHorseShow

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The Windsor Horse Show takes place in the private half of Home Park,typicallyaroundmid-May,andithighlightstheequestrianactivitiesthatarepartoftheroyalhousehold.Attendanceisopentothepublic,butparticipationisbyroyalinvitationonly.Whilesomemayargueitisnotthebestequestrianeventinthe country,most agree thatwithWindsorCastle as a backdrop it is themostimpressive.Atnightthecastleisfloodlitandlookslikeapicturesquefairytale.

Staff is offered one free ticket each to attend the show and most chooseSundaytocatchthefinalefireworkdisplay.SomematesandIwouldheaddowntotheshowassoonaswehadsentuproyaldinnerandchangedoutofourchefwhites.My favorite partwas themusical ride by the royal horse artillery andtheirfinalewhenallsixgunswerefirstfiredindividuallyandthenalltogether.ItcanbeheardalloverWindsor.Wewouldthenmakeamaddashbackupthehillto the castle and up onto the north terrace to watch the fireworks. From thatterrace,wewereateyelevelandthedisplaywasamazing.

Duringthehorseshow,thehouseisfullandmanyoftheguestsarefriendsoftheDuke’sorcompetitorsintheevents.OnefaithfulguestisCountAndrassy,aclose relation of theWindsors’. Iwould alwaysmake “Andrassy Pudding” asoneofthespecialdessertsduringhisstay.Basically,achocolatesoufflé,turnedoutandcooled,isslicedandfilledwithareallyrichthickchocolatecream.Thesidesarecoatedwiththechocolatecreamanddustedwithchocolateshavings.Itischocolatyandexcessiveandeveryoneeatsitup.Evenme.

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CHIVECREAMDRESSING

¼Knorrchickenbouilloncube¼cupwater½cupmayonnaise

2tablespoonschoppedfreshchives

½lemon,juicedSaltandfreshlygroundpepper1.Inasmallpanoveralowheat,dissolvethebouilloncubeinthewaterandthenremovefromtheheat.Putthemayonnaiseinalargebowl,andwhiskinthewarmbroth.Addthechoppedchivesandlemonjuice,andadjusttheseasoningwiththesaltandpepper.2.Refrigeratethedressinguntilneeded.Keepsforuptothreedays.

MAKES1CUP

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ROASTSPRINGLEGOFLAMB

1bone-inlegoflamb,4to4½pounds6clovesgarlic,smashed

1tablespoonfreshordriedrosemary

1teaspoonfreshordriedthymeleavesKoshersaltandcoarselygroundblackpepper¼cupoliveoil2largecarrots,cutintolargepieces1largeonion,peeledandcutintolargepieces3ribscelery,cutintolargepieces

1tablespoonall-purposeflour

1½cupschickenbroth1cupredwine1bayleaf

1tablespoonredcurrantjelly1.Preheattheovento400degrees.Removethelambfromtherefrigerator,andallowittocometoroomtemperature.Rubthegarlic,rosemary,andthymealloverthelamb,andseasonliberallywiththesaltandpepper.Heattheoilinalargeroastingpanoverhighheat.Carefullyplacethelambintotheroastingpan,and,usingtongs,searallsidesofthemeatuntilgoldenbrown.Removethelambfromtheroastingpanandsetaside.

2.Reducetheheattomedium,andaddthecarrots,onions,andcelerytotheroastingpan.Stirbriefly.Makeabedwiththevegetables,andplacethelegoflambontopofthevegetables.Placetheroastingpaninthecenteroftheoven.Roastthelambfor45minutesuncoveredandthenanadditional45minutescoveredwithaluminumfoiluntilitreachesaninternaltemperatureof160degreesto170degrees.Removethelambfromtheoven,andliftitontoa

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cleanplate.Allowtheroasttorest,covered,forabout20minutes.3.Carefullystrainoffmostoftheexcessfatfromtheroastingpan.Youshouldhaveabout¼cupleftinthebottomalongwiththevegetables.Returnthepantothestovetop,andoverlowheat,addtheflourandstir.Nextstirinthechickenbrothandredwine,andaddthebayleafandredcurrantjelly.Increasetheheat,bringthesaucetoaboil,andadjusttheseasoning.Pouranyaccumulatedjuicesfromthelambintothesauce.Removethevegetablestoawarmservingplatter,andstrainthesauceintoasauceboat.Slicethemeatthinlyandservewiththesauceandvegetables.

MAKES6TO8SERVINGS

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BEEFWELLINGTON

½stick(¼cup)butter2teaspoonssalt,divided1smallonion,finelychopped1poundportabellamushrooms,blendedtopasteinafoodprocessor¼cupheavycream1tablespoonWorcestershiresauce

1teaspooncoarselygroundblackpepper

½teaspoonEnglishmustardpowder¼teaspoonceleryseeds13-pound,center-cutbeeftenderloin¼cupoliveoil1(14-ounce)boxDufourclassicpuffpastryor1(17-ounce)boxPepperidgeFarmpuffpastry8ouncesfoiegras,oragoodliverpâté1egg,beaten1.Preheattheovento400degrees.Heatalargesautépanovermediumheat.Add½stickbutter,1teaspoonsalt,andtheonion.Sautéuntiltheonionissoftenedandtranslucent.Addthemushroomstothesautépan,andcookuntiltheyhavereleasedalltheirliquidandthepanisrelativelydry.AddthecreamandWorcestershiresauce,andcookuntilreducedandthemixturehasformedasmoothpaste.Checkthemixtureforseasoning,andsetasidetocool.

2.Inasmallbowl,mixtogethertheremainingteaspoonofsalt,theblackpepper,mustardpowder,andceleryseeds.Rubthespicemixtureonallsidesofthetenderloin.Inanonstickfryingpanlargeenoughtoholdthetenderloin,heattheoliveoiluntilitstartstosmoke.Searthebeefonallsides.Removeandletthebeefcoolcompletely.

3.Rolloutthepuffpastryintoarectanglelargeenoughtoenclosethebeeftenderloinwiththelongsideparalleltoyourbody.Spreadthecooledmushroommixtureoverthepastry,leavingatleast3inchesaroundtheedges.Slicethefoiegrasorliverpaté,andlayitdownthehorizontalcenterofthepastry.Placethetenderloinontop.

4.Brushthelongedgesofthepastrywithsomebeatenegg,andfoldoverthemushroommixtureandtenderloin,tuckingintheends.Presstheedgestogethertoseal.Placethetenderloinseamsidedownonabakingsheet,and

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brushthetopandsidesofthepastrywiththeremainingbeatenegg.5.Bakethetenderloinfor10minutes.Reducetheheatto350degrees,andcookfor20minuteslonger,oruntilthepastryisgoldenbrown.Removefromtheoven,andallowthebeeftorestforatleast5minutesbeforeslicing.Trimofftheendsofthepastry,andcutintosixevenslicestoserve.BeefWellingtoncanbeaccompaniedbyaMadeirawinesauceoraclassicHollandaise.

MAKES6SERVINGS

BeefWellington,ChouxàlaCherbourg

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RACKOFLAMBWITHGARLIC,ROSEMARY,ANDJUNIPER

IntheUKwewoulduseEnglishorWelshlambforthisdish,andatBalmoralweusedtheSoaylambofftheestate.IuseColoradolambintheUS,whichyieldsalargechop,perfectforthisdish.Thejuniperberriesgiveasharp,almostwoodyflavorwhencrushed.

1rackoflamb,approximately1½pounds10juniperberries5clovesgarlic

1teaspoonfreshchoppedrosemary

2tablespoonsoliveoil,dividedSaltandfreshlygroundpepper

1tablespoonfinelychoppedonion

¼cupslicedwildmushrooms

1teaspoonall-purposeflour¼teaspoontomatopaste1cuplamborchickenbroth,or½brothmixedwith½cupwhitewine1.Scorethefatsideoftherackoflambbycuttingdiagonal,¼-inchslitsaboutaninchapart.Thiswillallowthefattocrispupalittlewhiletherackcooksandalsoallowthemarinadetogetintothemeat.Usingamortarandpestle,crushthejuniperberriesandgarlictoapaste.Addtherosemaryand1tablespoonoliveoil.Spreadthemixtureoverthelamb.Placethelambinaziplockbag,andrefrigerateforupto24hours.Removefromtherefrigerator1hourbeforecooking.

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2.Preheattheovento400degrees.Inalargesautépan,heattheremaining1tablespoonoil.Seasonthelambliberallywiththesaltandpepper,andseartherackonallsides.Thatshouldtakeabout5minutes.Placethelambintheoven,uncovered,for20minutes,oruntiltheinternaltemperaturereaches135degrees.Turnitoncemidwaythroughcooking.Removethelambfromthesautépantoaplateandletitrestfor10minutesbeforeslicing.

3.Addtheonionandmushroomstothefryingpan,andoverhighheat,cookuntiltranslucent.Addtheflourandtomatopaste,andslowlystirinthebroth,whiskingconstantlytoavoidlumps.Allowthesaucetosimmerandslightlyreduce,about5minutes.Adjusttheseasoningsandservewiththeslicedlamb.

MAKES2SERVINGS

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SOLEMURAT

TheQueenprobablyhadthisdishonceaweek.AlthoughitiscalledSoleMurat,wewouldsometimesprepare itwith shrimp insteadof sole. It’sdeliciousbothways. I think HerMajesty liked the fact that this was a complete meal, withsautéedartichokeheartsandcrispyfriedpotatoes.Allweservedalongsidewasasimplegreensaladandbowloffreshfruit.

4cupsvegetableoil

2largerussetpotatoes,peeledandcutinto½-inchpieces1tablespoonplus¼cupunsaltedbutterforbrownbuttersauce¼cupoliveoil8Doversolefillets,cutinto1½-inchstripsonthebiasor1½poundsofshrimp,21to25count1cupall-purposeflourKoshersaltandgroundwhitepepper½cupfreshorfrozenartichokebottoms,quartered¼cupfinelychoppedparsley1lemon,juiceonly

1.Heatthevegetableoilto250degreesinaheavy-bottomedsaucepan.Meanwhile,patthepotatoesdrywithapapertowel.Thiswillhelpreduceanyspatteringwhenthepotatoesarefried.Placethepotatoesintothehotoilandcookuntilthepotatoesaresoft,butnotcolored.Liftthemoutontoatraylinedwithpapertowelsandallowthemtocool.Shutofftheheatundertheoilandsettheoilaside.Itwillbeusedagaintorefrythepotatoescrispybrown.

2.Melt1tablespoonbutterwiththeoliveoilinaheavysautépanoverhighheatuntilthebutterishot,butnotbrown.Dredgethesolefilletsintotheflour,makingsuretheyarecoatedonbothsides,andcarefullyplacethemintotheoil.Seasonwiththesaltandpepper,andcookuntilgoldenonthebottom,aboutthreeminutesorlessifthefilletsarethin.Turnthesoleoverandcookuntilgolden.Removethefishfromthepantoawarmplateandkeepwarm.Addthequarteredartichokeheartstothepan,andwarmthem,browningslightly.Removetoaplateandkeepwarm.

3.Heatthefryingoilbackto375degrees.Carefullydropthepotatoesbackintothehotoil,andcook5minutes,untilgoldenandcrispy.Drainthehotpotatoes

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onpapertowels,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Atthesametime,heattheremainingbutterinthesautépanuntilitturnsbrownandsmellsslightlynutty.Placethefishonaservingplate,andtopwiththeartichokesandcrispypotatoes.Drizzlethebrownbutteroverthefishandvegetables;dustwiththeparsleyandasqueezeoflemonjuice.Serveimmediately.

MAKES4SERVINGS

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SALMONENCROÛTE

1tablespoonoliveoil

2clovesgarlic,crushed2(9ounces)bagsfreshleafspinach⅛teaspoongroundnutmegSaltandfreshlygroundpepper1boxpuffpastry,thawed(about12ounces)

2roundsgarlic-and-herb-flavoredBoursincheese1filletskinnedsalmon,about3pounds2eggsyolks,beatenDillCreamSauce(recipepage64)1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Heattheoliveoilinaheavy-bottomedpanuntilhot,butnotsmoking.Addthegarlicandsautéforseveralseconds.Thenaddthespinachfollowedbythenutmeg.Stirforseveralminutesuntilthespinachhaswilted.Seasonwiththesaltandpepper.Strainintoasmallcolandertodrainoffanyexcesswater,andallowthespinachtocool.

2.Placeonesheetofpuffpastryontopoftheother,sprinklingabitofcoldwaterbetweenthesheetstoholdthemtogether.Rolloutthepastrytoa20×10-inchrectangle.CrumbletheBoursinintosmallpieces,andlaythepiecesalongthecenterofthepuffpastrylengthwise,leavingtwoinchesplainattheends.Laythespinachontopofthecheese.Laythesalmonfilletontopofthespinach,facedown,andbrushtheedgesofthepastrywithhalfthebeateneggyolks.

3.Wrapthepastryoverthesalmon,trimtheedges,andturnthewholepackageupsidedownontoabakingsheetlargeenoughtoaccommodateit.Theseamshouldbeunderneath.Brushthetopofthepastrywiththeremainingeggyolks.Bakefor35minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Removethesalmonfromtheoven,andallowittocoolslightlybeforeslicingandserving.ServewithHollandaiseorDillCreamSauce.

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MAKES6TO8SERVINGS

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ROASTEDSPRINGVEGETABLES

2poundssmallred-skinpotatoes,washedandquartered2poundscarrots,cutinto¾-inchrounds

4largefennelbulbs

2leeks,cleanedandslicedinto½-inchrounds¾cupoliveoil2clovesgarlic,crushed1tablespoonkoshersalt

2teaspoonsfreshlygroundblackpepper

1bunchfreshtarragon,finelychopped1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Placethepotatoesandcarrotsinalargemixingbowl.Trimthefennelbulbsofanybrownouterleaves,andchopoffthefronds.Youjustwanttousethebulbhere.Cutthebulbsinhalfvertically,andthencuteachhalfintovertical½-inchwedges.Addthefennelandleekstothemixingbowlwiththepotatoesandcarrots.

2.Inaseparatesmallerbowl,addtheoil,garlic,salt,andpepper,andwhisktocombine.Pourthismixtureoverthevegetablesandstir,coatingallthevegetableswell.Transferthecontentstoabakingsheet,andbakethevegetablesfor45minutesto1hour,oruntiltheyaretenderandslightlybrownedaroundtheedges.

3.Spoonthevegetablesontoaservingplatter,andgarnishwiththechoppedtarragonbeforeserving.

MAKES6TO8SERVINGS

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RoastedSpringVegetables(left),Normandy-StyleBoulangèrePotatoes(front),PetitPoisàlaFrançais(French-stylepeas)

(top)

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PETITPOISÀLAFRANÇAIS(French-stylepeas)

Freshlyshelledpeasbrought toboilandservedwithbutterandchopped freshmint are delicious through the spring and summermonths. But these French-stylepeasarealsoagreatwayofusingfrozenpeasandareafinealternativeinthisrecipe,whichemploysatraditionalbraisingmethod.Intimespast,thepeaswould be stewed for so long they would turn grey. They still tasted good,however.

6slicesbacon,diced1largeonion,thinlysliced¼headiceberglettuce,shredded1½poundsfrozengreenpeas1teaspoonsalt3tablespoonssugar1pinchfreshlygroundpepper

1chickenbouilloncube

2cupswater(orenoughtocover)2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,softened

3tablespoonsall-purposeflour1smallbunchfreshmint,chopped1.Ina2-quartsaucepanovermediumheat,frythebaconslowlyuntilitissoftandsomeofthefathasbeenrendered.Stirintheslicedonionsandlettuce,andletthemsimmerforabout5minutes.Addthepeas,salt,sugar,pepper,chickenbouilloncube,andwatertocover.Continuetocookslowlyuntilthebouilloncubehasdissolvedandthepeasareheatedthroughanddonetothedesireddegreeoffirmness,about5to10minutes.

2.Meanwhile,inasmallmixingbowl,combinethebutterandflour.Addthebutterandflourmixturetothepeasandbringtoaboil.Removefromtheheat

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andstir.Garnishwithmintandserveimmediately.

MAKES6SERVINGS

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DILLCREAMSAUCE

4tablespoonsunsaltedbutter1cupslicedbuttonmushrooms

1cupfinelydicedonions

3clovesgarlic,crushed¼cupall-purposeflour

1cupwater

1cupwhitewineor1extracupwater

1chickenbouilloncube1lemon,juiced½cupchoppedfreshdillSaltandfreshlygroundpepperMeltthebutterinaheavy-bottomedsaucepanuntilhot,butnotsmoking.Addthemushrooms,onions,andgarlic.Sautéuntiltheonionsstarttosoften.Stirintheflour,thenthewater,wine,andbouilloncube.Simmerfor10minutesoruntilthemixturethickenstoasauceconsistency.Addthelemonjuice,dill,andsaltandpepper.Tastetocorrectseasonings.

MAKES6SERVINGS

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VANILLAICECREAM

This is my base recipe. You can keep it as vanilla, but could also melt eightouncesofchocolateinabowlandthenpouritovertheicecreambaseassoonasitcoatsthebackofthespoon.Whiskandthenchill.Forcoffeeicecream,addonetablespoonofinstantcoffeetotheeggandsugarmix.Itwilldissolvewhentheboilingmilkispouredonit.TogetsomethinglikethequalityoficecreamweusedatWindsorwithmilk fromtheroyaldairies, Iwhisk inasix-ouncejarofEnglishclottedcreamtothechilledbase.Thenyouarereadytofreezeitintoaremarkablebowloficecream.

6eggyolks

1wholeegg

½cupvanillasugar(seepage76)2½cupswholemilk1vanillabeanor1teaspoonvanillaextract1¼cupsheavycream1.Inalargemixingbowl,beattheeggyolks,wholeegg,andvanillasugaruntilthemixturestartstolightenincolor.Atthesametime,putthemilkandvanillabeanorvanillaextractintoaheavysaucepan,andbringthemilktoasimmeroveralowflame.Removethemilkfromtheheatassoonasitsimmers,andveryslowlypouritontotheeggmixture,whiskingallthetime.Thisslowpourensuresthattheeggyolksdon’tcurdle.

2.Returnthemilk,egg,andsugarmixturebacktothesaucepanonthestoveoverlowheat.Slowlycookthemixture,stirringconstantlywithawoodenspoonoverthewholebottomofthepanuntilthemilkthickensenoughtocoatthebackofawoodenspoon.Itshouldhaveathick,creamyconsistency.

3.Strainthemixturethroughasievetobreakupanylumps,andpouritintoacleanbowl.Refrigerateuntilcold.Ifyouhaveusedavanillapod,removeitnowandsplititdownthemiddle.Scrapeouttheseedsintothecustardmixture.

4.Whenthecustardiscompletelycold,whisktheheavycreamtosoftpeaksandfolditintothecustard.Pourthecustardintoanelectricicecreammachine,

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andchurnfollowingthemanufacturer’sinstructions.

MAKES8SERVINGS

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ANDRASSYPUDDING

Ifyou’vebeenafraidofmakingsoufflés,thisisagreatrecipetobeginwith.Ifitdoesn’triseproperly,it’sokay,becauseyouaregoingtoletitsinkagainbeforeyouserveit.Eventuallyyouwillbemakingthemostamazingchocolatesoufflésandwillwanttorushthemtothetabletoimpressyourguests,ratherthanlettingthemsinkandgocoldforthisdish.

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter(forgreasingthesoufflédish),softenedSoufflé¼cup(½stick)unsaltedbutter⅓cupgranulatedsugar⅓cupcocoapowder¼cupall-purposeflour1¼cupsmilk6eggs,separatedFrosting¼cup(½stick)unsaltedbutter⅓cupgranulatedsugar⅓cupcocoapowder¼cupall-purposeflour1¼cupsmilk

6eggyolks

1(4-ounce)barGhirardellimilkchocolate,finelygratedWhippedcream1.Preheattheovento400degreesandplaceabakingrackontothemiddleshelfoftheoven.Makesurethetoprackisremovedtoallowroomforthesoufflétorise.Greasean8-inchsoufflédishwiththebutter,leavingalipofbutterallalongthetopedge.

2.Forthesoufflé,preparethebasebymeltingthebutterinaheavysaucepanandaddingthesugar,cocoapowder,andflour.Whiskuntilcombined,andthengraduallyincorporatethemilktoformasmoothsauce.Removefromtheheat,andwhiskintheeggyolks.Pourthemixtureintoalargebowl,andallowittocoolforabout15minutes.

3.Inaseparatebowl,whiptheeggwhitesuntilstiff,andfoldthemintothesoufflébase.Spoonthemixtureintothepreparedsoufflédish,andbakefor18minutesoruntilwellrisen.Removethesouffléfromtheovenandsetitonacoolingrack.Allowthesoufflétocoolandsink.Whileitisstillwarm,turnthesouffléoutontothecoolingrack,andletitcoolcompletely.

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4.Forthefrosting,meltthebutterinaheavy-bottomedsaucepan.Addthesugar,cocoapowder,andflour,andwhiskuntilcombined.Graduallyincorporatethemilktoformasmoothsauce.Removefromtheheatandwhiskintheeggyolks.Pourthemixintoalargebowl,coverwithplasticwrap,andallowthesoufflétocool.

5.Slicethesouffléinhalfhorizontally,creatingtwolayers,andspreadsomeofthefrostingontothebottomlayer.Replacethetoplayerandspreadtheremainingfrostingoverthetopandsidesofthesoufflé.Placethesoufflécarefullyontoaservingplate,andsprinklethefinelygratedchocolateontothetopandsidesofthepudding.Servewithwhippedcream.

MAKES10SERVINGS

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CREPESISLANDAISE

The Duke of Edinburgh was served this dish on a state visit to Iceland. Heenjoyed it so much that he asked for the recipe and royal chefs have beenmakingthesecrepeseversince.

1cupall-purposeflour

¼teaspoonbakingpowder¼teaspoonsalt½teaspoonbakingsoda

3eggs

2½cupsmilk

1teaspoonvanillapaste½stick(¼cup)unsaltedbutter,melted¼cupseedlessraspberryjam1cupheavycream,whipped2tablespoonspowderedsugar,fordusting1.Sifttheflour,bakingpowder,salt,andsodaintoalargebowl.Inaseparatebowl,mixtheeggs,milk,andvanillapaste.Addtheeggandmilkmixturetothedryingredients,andstiruntilcombined.

2.Addthemeltedbutteralittleatatimetoan8-inchcrepepanorfryingpan,andheatoverhighheat.Spoonabout2tablespoonsofthebatterintothepan,andallowittospreadandset.Flipthecrepeovertocooktheotherside,andwhendone,removeittoaplatetocoolslightly.Thiswholeprocessshouldtakelessthanaminute.Repeatwiththerestofthebatter.

3.Spreadthejamoverthetopofeachpancake,andaddaspoonfulofwhippedcream.Foldthepancakeinhalftwicesothatyouhaveaneattriangle,anddustitwiththepowderedsugar.Serveimmediately.

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MAKES6SERVINGS

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COFFEEMOUSSE

Ican’ttellyouhowmanytimesweforgottosendthechocolatecoveredcoffeebeansdowntoWindsorintheAscotboxesonaFriday.ItwasthenafranticrushtofindanyBuckinghamPalacestaffthatlivedatWindsorto“dropbythecastlekitchen”on theirwayhome.Moreoften thannot, thebeanswouldbeused tocreate thiscoffeemousse. It is theperfectmake-aheaddessert that looksquiteelegant but is dead easy. Buy more than you need of the chocolate coveredcoffeebeans—youcansnackwhileyou’reworking.

1packetKnoxunflavoredgelatin

1¼cupswholemilk,divided

2eggyolks

⅓cupgranulatedsugar

1teaspooninstantcoffeegranules¾cupheavycream

2eggwhites

½cupdarkchocolate-coveredcoffeebeans,dividedWhippedcream1.Inabowllargeenoughtoholdalltheingredients,dissolvethegelatinin¼cupcoldmilk.Inaseparatebowl,addtheeggyolks,sugar,andinstantcoffee.Whiskuntilcombined.Bringtheremaining1cupmilktotheboilinaheavy-bottomedsaucepan,andslowlypouritontotheeggmixture,whiskingconstantly.Returnthemixturetothesaucepan,andoverlowheat,stiruntil

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themixturestartstothickenandcoatthebackofthespoon.Removefromtheheat,andpourthemixtureoverthegelatin.Whiskuntilallingredientsarecombined.Strainthecoffeecustardmixtureintoalargebowl,andrefrigerateuntilcoldandstartingtoset.

2.Inalargebowl,whipthecreamuntilstiff.Inanotherbowl,whiptheeggwhitesuntilstiff.Alternatingwiththewhippedcream,carefullyfoldtheeggwhitesintothecoffeecustard.Spoonhalfthemixtureintoasix-cupservingdish,andsprinkle¼cupchocolatecoffeebeansontop.Coverwiththeremainingcustard.Refrigeratethemousseuntilfirm.

3.Toserve,garnishwithrosettesofwhippedcreamandtheremaining¼cupchocolatecoffeebeanssprinkledoverthetop.

MAKES6SERVINGS

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BRANDYSNAPS

Theselight,crunchytuile-likerolledcookiesareapopularteacakeanddessert.UsingastartipIwouldpipewhippedcreamintohalfofthebrandysnapsandtheotherhalfIwouldsendupplain,withoutcream.OthertimesIwouldshapethe brandy snaps around cream horn molds (cones) and make brandy snapcornets.Thesewouldbearrangedneatlyintoaglassfingerbowlandthenfilledwithicecreamfortheroyaltable.IthinkthatistheclosesttheQueenevercametoeatingicecreamoutofacone.

The brandy snaps can also be shaped around a tartlet mold to create abasketforslicedfruit.Inthatcase,Iwouldusuallybrushtheinsidewithmeltedchocolateand let it sethard first. It stops thecookie fromgetting soggywhenyouserveit.

Goldensyruphastheconsistencyofcornsyrupandhasacleargoldencolor.It’s made from evaporated sugar cane juice and has a rich flavor. A goodsubstituteisKingbrandsyrup,amixtureofcornandinvertsugarsyrupthatiswidelysoldthroughouttheUnitedStates.Cornsyrupwillworktoo,butwillnotgivethegoldencolor.

½cupDemerarasugar(turbinadosugarwillworkasanalternative)

8tablespoonsgoldensyrup

1stick(8tablespoons)unsaltedbutter1⅛cupsall-purposeflour

1teaspoongroundginger

1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Inamedium-size,heavy-bottomedsaucepan,meltthesugar,syrup,butter,flour,andgingertogetheroveralowheatuntilcombined.Becarefulnottooverheat;themixjustneedstobehotenoughtomeltthebutter.Greasealargebakingsheetoruseasilpatnonstickbaking

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sheet.2.Spoonaheapingtablespoonofthecookiemixontothebakingsheet,leavingabout6inchesbetweeneachonetoallowforthemixturetospread.Bakefor6minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown;thenremovethebakingsheetfromtheoven,andletthebrandysnapscooljustslightly.

3.Whenthebrandysnapshaveset,butarestillwarmandcanbeeasilyliftedoffthebakingsheet,quicklyeaseoneatatimeoffwithaflatmetalspatulaandrollarounda¾-inchwoodendowelorawoodenspoonhandletocreatecylinders.Placeonabakingracktohardencompletely,about2minutes,andtheneasethemoffthewoodenspoon.

4.Repeattheprocess.Ifthebrandysnapsstarttobreakasyourollthem,returnthetraytotheovenforafewminutesandtheywillsoftenagain.

MAKESABOUT30SNAPS

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CRÈMEBRÛLÉE

ThisisoneofPrinceAndrew’sfavoritedesserts.OftenitwouldbeservedwithSandringham oranges. The natural acidity of the oranges would balance thesweetnessofthebrûlée.Forachangewewouldsometimesputpeeledgrapesonthe bottomof the brûlée before baking and give it a fancy newname—CrèmeBrûléeauRaisin.

6eggyolks

4tablespoonsgranulatedsugar

1vanillapodor½teaspoonvanillaextract2cupsheavycream

4tablespoonsgranulatedvanillasugar

(seepage76)fortopping

1.Preheattheovento325degrees.Inalargemixingbowl,beattheeggyolksandsugaruntiltheyturnalightyellowcolor.Addthevanillapodorextract.

2.Inaseparateheavy-bottomedsaucepan,bringtheheavycreamtoasimmer.Onceheated,immediatelyremoveitfromtheheat,andslowlypouritintotheeggyolkandsugarmixture,whiskingconstantly.

3.Puttheliquidbackintothesaucepansetoverlowheat,andwhiskorstirthemilkmixtureasitcooks,rememberingtostiracrossthewholesurfaceofthepantokeepthedevelopingcustardfromforminglumps.Keepstirringuntilthecustardthickenstotheconsistencyofheavycream.(Don’tbeimpatient;thissometimestakesawhile.)Thiscustarddoesmostofitscookingontopofthestove,notintheoven,soyoureallywantittobequitethickatthispoint.

4.Strainthecustardintoacleanbowl.Ifyouusedavanillapod,removeit,split

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itopen,andscrapetheseedsfrominsidethepodintothecustard.5.Dividethecustardequallyamongsixsmallramekins.Placetheramekinsinalargerpan,andfillthepanwithhottapwaterhalfwayupthesidesoftheramekins.

6.Bakeintheovenfor15minutes,oruntilthecustardjiggleslikeJell-Owhenyougiveitagentleshake.Removetheramekinsfromthewaterbath,andletthemcoolcompletelyintherefrigeratorforatleast3hours.

7.Toserve,lightlysprinklethetopsofeachramekinwithgranulatedvanillasugar,andplacethemunderahotbroileruntilthesugarcaramelizes,watchingcarefullysonottoletthesugarburn.

MAKES6SERVINGS

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ENGLISHPANCAKES

EnglishpancakesaredifferentfromAmericanpancakes.Theyaremuchthinnerand contain no leavening. They are closer to a French crepe, only slightlythicker.TraditionallytheyareservedonShroveTuesday,butareenjoyedyear-round.Theyarebestservedstraightfromthepan.Inmyhousetheraceistotrytomakethemfasterthanmychildrencaneatthem.

2cupsall-purposeflour

1½tablespoonsextra-finegranulatedsugarPinchofsalt1egg

2eggyolks

2½cupsmilk2tablespoonsvegetableoil,divided½stick(¼cup)unsaltedbutterGranulatedsugar,lemons,andorangesforgarnish1.Inalargemixingbowl,whisktogethertheflour,sugar,andsalt.Addtheeggandeggyolks,followedbythemilkand1tablespoonofthevegetableoil.Continuewhiskinguntiltherearenolumps.Inaseparatesmallsaucepan,meltthebutteruntilitisgoldenbrown,andwhiskitintothepancakemix.Leavethebattertorestforabout15minutes.

2.Heatan8-inchfryingpanuntilhot,andaddtheremaining1tablespoonvegetableoil,tiltingthepantospreadtheoilacrossthebottom.Whentheoilstartstosmoke,pourtheexcessintoasmallbowlforlateruse.Returnthepantotheheat.Younowhaveasheercoatingofoilremainingonthepan.

3.Pour2tablespoonsofthebatterintothepancakepan,tiltingthepantocoatthebottomevenly.Cookuntiltheundersideofthepancakeisgoldenbrown,andthen,usingaspatula,turnitoverandcooktheotherside.Turnthepancakeoutontoanupturneddinnerplate.Repeatuntilthereisnomorebatter,usingabitofthereservedoilifthepanappearstobedry,orifthe

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pancakesbegintostick.Continuetostackpancakesontopofeachotheronyourdinnerplate.

4.Whenfinished,servethepancakesstraightawaywiththesugarforsprinklingandthelemonandorangewedgesonthesideforsqueezingonthepancakes.

5.Ifyouwanttomakethepancakesinadvance,lightlybutteranovenprooftray,andsprinkleeachpancakewithsugarafteryoufinishcookingit.Foldthepancakesinhalfandthenhalfagain,arrangingthemallneatlyonthetray.Coverthetraywithfoilandbakeat350degreesforabout15minutes.Servewiththelemonandorangewedges.

MAKES20(8-INCH)PANCAKES

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ROYALBIRTHDAYCAKE

Anyleftover frostingcanbechilled, thenrolledintoballsanddippedincocoapowder,coconut,ornibbedalmonds.Eat these trufflesoutrightoruse themtodecoratethetopofyourcake.

Filling1poundGhirardellisemisweetchocolate,choppedanddivided2cups(1pint)heavycream,divided

Spongecake6eggyolks

2eggs

½cupsugar⅓cupplus2teaspoonsall-purposeflour

4tablespoonsDutchcocoapowder½stick(¼cup)unsaltedbutter,meltedandcooled1.Forthefilling,prepareitatleastsixhoursbeforebakingthecake.Puthalfthechoppedchocolateintoamixingbowl.Inaseparatesaucepan,bringhalftheheavycreamtoasimmer.Pourthehotcreamontothechocolate,lettingthechocolatemelt.Whiskituntilsmoothandwellincorporated.Refrigerateuntilitcoolsandthickenstotheconsistencyofaspreadableicing.

2.Preheattheovento350degrees.3.Forthecake,butteran8-inchroundcakepanandlineitwithbutteredparchmentpaper.Setametalmixingbowloverasaucepanhalffilledwithsimmeringwater.Thewatershouldn’ttouchthebottomofthemixingbowl.Addtheeggyolks,eggs,andsugartothemixingbowl,andwhisktogether,

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allowingtheheatfromthesimmeringwatertowarmthemixture.Inaseparatebowl,sifttheflourandcocoatogether.

4.Keepwhiskingtheeggmixtureuntilitdoublesinvolume.Gentlyfoldintheflourandcocoamixture.Thenfoldinthecooledbutter.Spoonthecakebatterintothepreparedcakepan,andbakefor20minutes,oruntilthecakespringsbackslightlywhenpressed.Removethecakefromtheovenontoacoolingrack.

5.Forthetopping,puttheremaininghalfofthechoppedchocolateintoamixingbowl.Inaseparatesaucepan,bringtheremainingheavycreamtoasimmer.Pourthehotcreamontothechocolate,lettingthechocolatemelt.Whiskituntilsmoothandwellincorporated,andthensetitasidewhileyouassemblethecake.

TheQueen’sbirthdaytea:Scones,RoyalBirthdayCake,teasandwiches,RaspberryTartlets6.Fortheassembly,slicethespongecakeintothreehorizontallayers.Placethebottomlayeronacoolingrack.Usingtherefrigeratedicing,topthebottomdiscswithathicklayeroficing,andthenaddthenextlayerof

spongecakeandanotherthicklayeroficing.Placethetopofthecakeoverthesecondlayeroficing.

7.Ladlethewarmchocolateicingoverthetopofthespongecake,allowingittorundownthesides.Coolthecakeforatleast2hoursbeforedecoratingwithchocolate.

MAKES10SERVINGS

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VANILLASUGAR

Vanilla beans, or pods as we call them in England, are expensive, but usingthem thiswaymakes themveryeconomicaland theywill lastayear.ThebestonesareTahitianandBourbon.IliketousetheBourbonpodsbecausetheyarea lotsweeterandcontainmoreseeds.Bothworkwell in thisrecipe, justmakesuretheonesyoubuyareoilytotouch,smellfragrant,andarenotbrittleordry.

5cupsgranulatedsugar

4vanillabeans

1.Pourthesugarintoan8-cupTupperwarecontainerwithatightfittinglid.Layoneofthebeansflatonachoppingboardandholdoneend.Carefullycutopenthebeandownthecenterlengthwise,andscrapeoutthetinyblackseeds.Placethebeanandseedsintothesugar;repeattheprocesswithallofthebeans.

2.Placethelidonthecontainer,andcoverwithplasticwrap.Shakethecontainerforaboutaminute,andstoreinthepantryforatleastaweek.Thesugarisnowreadytouse.Rememberthatifyoutake1tablespoonofvanillasugaroutofthecontainer,youmustreplaceitwith1tablespoonofregulargranulatedsugar,andthenshakethecontaineragain.Thiswillmaintainyoursourceofvanillasugarforabout1year.Afterthat,youwillneedtopurchasemorebeans.

3.Servethesugarinasmallbowlwithwhippedcreamalongsidefreshstrawberries,sprinkleitoveracrèmebrûlée,anduseitinbaking.

MAKES5CUPS

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LEMONMILLE-FEUILLEWITHRHUBARBCOULIS

1boxphyllodough(12ounces)1egg,beaten½poundrhubarb,about4sticks

1cupwater

½cupplus1tablespoongranulatedsugar1quarter-sizeslicefreshginger,peeled1recipelemoncheese(recipepage80)1tablespoonpowderedsugar,forgarnishLemonMille-FeuillewithRhubarbCoulis1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Unrollthephyllodoughandlayoutonesheet.Brushwiththebeateneggandlayanothersheetontop.Repeatsothatyouhavethreesheetsthick.Usinga3-inchroundcookiecutter,cutout18disks.Usemorephyllosheetsifneeded.Transferthediskstoacookiesheet,andbakeforabout8minutesoruntilgoldenbrown.Removetoacoolingrack.2.Forthecoulis,wipetherhubarbcleanwithapapertowelandtrimtheedges.Cuttherhubarbinto½-inchpiecesandputthemintoalargepan.Addthewaterand½cupsugarandbringtoaboil.Reducetoasimmer,stirringconstantly,untiltherhubarbsoftens.Straintherhubarb,reservingthepoachingliquid.Pureetherhubarbinablenderorfoodprocessor,addingalittleofthereservedliquiduntiltherhubarbachievesasaucelikeconsistency.Smashthegingertoafinepulpandaddittotherhubarb.Taste,addingtheremaining1tablespoonsugar,ifdesired.Refrigerateforabout2hours.

3.Buildyourmillefeuille.Placeateaspoonoflemoncheeseinthecenterofeachplateandtopwithadiskofcookedphyllo.Addanotherteaspoonoflemoncheesefollowedbyaseconddisk.Topwithathirdlayeroflemoncheeseandfinishwithanotherdiskofcookedphyllo.Spoontherhubarbcoulisaroundthebaseofthemillefeuille,dustthetopdiskofphyllowithpowderedsugar,andserve.

MAKES6SERVINGS

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LEMONCHEESE

Lemoncheeseisnottobeconfusedwithlemoncurd.Lemoncurdisusuallysetwith pectin or cornstarch and was the traditional filling, along with jam, forEnglishscones.Lemoncheeseusesmoreeggsandismuchricher in flavor,aswellasalotthicker.Lemoncheesecanbepipedintotartlets,scones,andotherpastrygoods;lemoncurdcan’t.Iuseorganiceggs,asthefeedoftenresultsinacreamieryellowyolk,whichwillinturngivemealemon-coloredcheese.

Microplanes have replaced old box graters in most cooks’ kitchens. Theyproduce a fine shaving of lemon zest that not only adds extra flavor, but alsoaids in thecoloring. I’ve listedvanillabeanpasteasoneof the ingredients. Itisn’tascommonasvanillaextract,but I’vehadgood luck finding itatWholeFoods andother gourmetmarkets.Finally, theEuropean-style butter (Englishbutterifyoucangetit),withitscreamiertasteandsilkiertexturecausedbytheslowerandlongerchurning,helpsproducethisvelvetylemoncheese.

½cupfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice,about3lemons½cupgranulatedsugar3eggs3eggyolks2teaspoonslemonzest1pinchofsalt

1teaspoonvanillapaste

1cupEuropeanunsaltedbutter,cutintosmallpieces1.Setalargemetalbowloverasaucepanofsimmeringwater.Makesurethebowldoesn’ttouchthewater.Addthelemonjuice,sugar,eggs,yolks,zest,andsalt.Whisktheingredientstogetherandkeepstirringuntilthemixturestartstothicken.Keepmovingthemixturewiththewhiskasitcooksonthebottomofthebowl.2.Removethemixturefromtheheatonceithasthickenedtotheconsistencyofsourcream.Addthevanillapasteandbutter.Whiskuntilcombined.Coverwithbutteredparchmentpaper,andrefrigerateforatleast24hoursbeforeusing.Refrigeratedlemoncheesewillkeepforaboutoneweek.

MAKESENOUGHTOSPREADON16SCONESANDTO

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GIVETOAFRIENDINAJARFOREASTER

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MULBERRYGIN

Sloeginwasoneof theroyal favorite tipplesatshooting lunchesandmanyoftheguestswouldcarryahipflaskfilledwithit.ButthenDavidQuick,oneofmyfellowchefs,and I startedmakingmulberryginwith the ripeberries from thetrees inHomePark.Thepurplecolor isamazing.Once theginwasdecanted,theleftoverberriescouldthenbespoonedintoacasseroledishandtoppedwitha little crumblemix and baked for a heartywinter pudding or even added togamestew.WehadsomanyberriesthatIwoulddoubletherecipeandmakethemixinawinestoredemijohn.

5cupsripemulberries

1¼cupssugar1literbottlegin

1emptyginbottle

1.Washthemulberriesincoldwaterandpatdrywithapapertowel.Prickeachoftheberrieswithawoodentoothpickseveraltimestohelpreleasethejuices.Puthalftheberriesintotheemptybottleandaddhalfthesugar.Pourhalftheginovertheberriesandplacethecapon.

2.Addtheremaininghalfofthemulberriesandsugartothenowhalf-emptyginbottle.Replacethecap.

3.Shakebothbottlesseveraltimestodissolvethesugar,andsetthemupinacool,darkroomforuptothreemonths.Shakethebottleseachdayforthefirstweekandthenonceaweekafterthat.Decanttheginthroughapieceofcheeseclothintoclean,sterilizedbottles.Theginisreadytodrinkafteronemonth,butisbestafterthreemonths,andwillkeepforseveralyears.

MAKES2LITERS

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CHAPTERFOUR

HMYBritannia

SummerontheHighSeas

Forforty-fouryearstheroyalyachtBritanniaservedQueenElizabethIIandherfamily. It took the royal family to 135 countries and on 968 official visits,steaming a total of 1,087,623 nautical miles. I—lucky chef—got to travel onsome of those trips. In fact, during my years as a palace chef, I traveled toAustralia andNewZealand,America,Malta, Sicily, Iceland, andFrance.AndwhileI’llneverbeahardysailor—trustmeonthis—workingonBritanniawasanamazingintroductiontopeopleandplacesallovertheglobe.

HMY Britannia was a glorious vessel, able to accommodate nearly sixtyguests for a royal dinner or asmany as two hundred people for a “meet andgreet”cocktailparty.Stemtosternshemeasuredmorethan412feet.Theyachtwasbeautifullyappointedwithlongsweepingstaircasesbetweenlevels;agrandformal dining room that hosted the rich, famous, and influential; and privatesuites used by honeymooning royals, including Princess Diana and PrinceCharles.

IspeakinthepasttensebecauseBritanniawasdecommissionedin1997.Bythat time the yacht needed major retrofitting. The expense to do this wasconsiderable,andtheBritishgovernmentdecidedthatthefundscouldbetterbeused elsewhere. So,Britannia was sent to Edinburgh, Scotland, where she isnowpermanentlyanchored.

IfWindsorCastledepictsall that isbestaboutEngland, thenBritanniaputthe“great”inGreatBritain.Theyachtwouldslowlyglideintoportwitheverysailordressedupinpurewhite“numberones”andlinedupsidebysidearoundtheyacht,likeawhiteribbonaroundanimmensegift.TheRoyalMarineBand,alsoinfulluniform,wouldbeplayingonthetopdeck“AnchorsAway”or“RuleBritannia.” The entrance of Britannia into port was always an unabashedmomentofpurespectacleandaroyalreminderofBritishimperialglory.Forallofusondeck,well,we stooda little taller andourheadswereheldhigh.We

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wereproudtobeBritish.

SUMMERTIMESAILINGAt the beginning of August every year, Britannia sailed out of Portsmouth,heading toward the Isle ofWight for the annual CowesWeek racing regatta.CowesWeekyachtracingbeganin1826,andtodayisthelongestrunningandmostprestigiousinternationalsailingregattaintheworld.Theevent,whichlastseightdays, takesplace in theSolentwatersoffCowes.This localewaspickedfor its shelteredwatersandunusual tidal conditions thatmake it a challengingspotforevenexperiencedracers.Aboutonethousandyachtscompeteeachyearand theparticipatingyacht clubsassemble theirbest teamsof seasoned sailorswho compete in these waters year after year. The Duke of Edinburgh lovedcompetingintheracesandIthinkthatCowesWeekwashisabsolutelyfavoritetimeonboardBritannia.

AninformalroyalstaffphotoonWesternIsles.I’mactuallyinthefirstrowthistime—veryrare!

Forthestaff,CowesWeekwasrelativelyeasy.TheDukewasoftentheonlyroyalmember of the family on board, and entertainingwas primarily betweentheDuke and his friends, other avid yachtsmen.Tied to a buoy in theSolent,Britannia hadoneof thebestviewsof the races, and theDukeandhisguestswere enthusiastic spectators when they weren’t competing. The yacht wasanchored so close to the action that on one occasion another yacht namedScorchergotentangledinBritannia’swhiteflag,rippingitoffaltogether.

Her Majesty and the rest of the family would join Britannia later inSouthampton, and then the entire family would sail for ten days through the

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Western Isles of Scotland. TheWestern Isles are beautiful. A lush landscapedottedwithgrazingsheepandgreen,green,green.Butallthatgreenmeanslotsof rain, and I’ll admit that occasionally I would long for a bit of sunshine.PrincessDianafelt thesameway. I rememberhercommiseratingwithmeonedayonboardBritannia.

Superman—withalittlehelp!

“Wealwaysmakeawrongturnonthistrip,don’tweDarren?”Sheaskedmeonce. “We should be making a left out of Southampton and heading to theMediterranean,notuptotheWesternIsles!”

I didn’t hear any complaints from the rest of the family, though. The tripwould be a leisurely zigzag from island to island, and the family woulddisembarkforapicniclunchorahikeabout.Occasionally,whiletheroyalswereashore, I’d watch the sailors fishing for mackerel, and if I was lucky, I’dpersuadethemtoletmehaveafewtocookfortheroyaltable.Therewerealsofishermenwhowouldpullupalongsidetheboatduringtheday,tryingtosellabitoftheircatch.Itwasreallyverypeaceful.Mealswerefamilyaffairsandtherewasverylittleofficialentertaining.OccasionallyWilliamandHarrywouldgrowrestless. I remember that once as a treat, a sailor dressedup asSuperman andwas tethered from a line of a helicopter flying overhead. The boys wereconvincedhewasflying.

ThehighlightofthetripwasvisitingtheQueenMotherattheCastleofMey.ThefamilywouldpullintoScrabsterHarboronaSundayatlunchtimeandheaduptothecastlefortea.InretrospectthesmalltownofThursowasquiteremote,but after docking at nearly deserted islands for a week, Thurso felt quitecontinentalwithitsonestreetlightandpayphone!Thefamilywouldrejointheyachtintheevening.AswesailedoutofScrabsterHarborwewouldpassbythe

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Queen Mum’s castle. Britannia’s sailors would set off flares in front of thecastle,andthecastlestaffwould,inturn,setofffireworkstohonorthepassingship. Itwas a lovely tribute frommother todaughter andmade for a stunningnighttimesky.

SAILINGABROADOnforeigntrips,BritanniawastheQueen’shomeawayfromhome.ThoughHerMajestymightbeonforeignturf,shewouldalsouseBritanniatogiveherguestsasenseofGreatBritain.Sowedidn’tstraytoofarintolocalcuisine.Iimagine,infact,thatsomeofourguestsovertheyearsthoughtthetraditionalBritishfoodwe served was quite exotic! In order to replicate that English “feel,” theprovisions that stocked the yacht’s larder were often packed and sent by thepalacechefsbeforethetrip.

For example, if the tripwas toAustralia, thedryprovisions (coffeebeans,sugar, tea, flour,Bendixbittermints,Malvernwater,etc.)wouldbe loadedonboardwhiletheyachtwasdockedatPortsmouthasitreadiedtosail.ForthenextsixweeksBritanniawouldwendherwaydownunderanddock.Thenthechefswould be flown fromLondon toAustralia,with hampers of all the perishableitemsandkitchenequipmentwemightneed forHerMajesty’s tour stowedonboard.

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VeryimportantBritanniasafetyinformation

Once abroad, all staff—whether on deck or on shore—represented HerMajesty and England. You were expected to be on best behavior and alwaysproperlyattired.Infact,eachstaffmemberwasfittedbeforehandwithamade-to-measuresuit.Ifyouweren’tinchefwhites,thenyouwereexpectedtobeinasuit—especiallywhenembarkinganddisembarkingBritannia.I’lladmititwasa

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real pain having to shower and change into a suit just to pop ashore for apostcard.

TwoespeciallymemorabletripsformeonBritanniaweremyveryfirsttripin1984toFranceandalatertriptotheUnitedStatesin1991.Thatfirsttripwasashortoneacross theEnglishChannel inJuneof1984.Alongwithfortystaffmembers, I hopped the train fromLondon toPortsmouth.As Iwalked towardtheyachtthatfirsttime,Iwasstruckbyitscolors.Britanniahadadarkbluehullwitharedrudderstickingoutofthewaterandabandofgoldleafencirclingthetopofthehull.IfoundoutlaterthattheQueenhadchosenthesecolorstomatchPrincePhilip’sdragon-classracingyacht,Bluebottle.

Iheadedupthegangplankfollowingtheotherfourchefsthroughthegalleykitchenanddowntomycabinlocatedrightnexttothepropellers.Theirinsistentthumpingwould lullme to sleep at nightwhenever I sailedonBritannia.Theroomwascompactwithatinybed,acloset,andawritingdesk.Onthedeskwasabookletinformingmetoheadtoliferaftstation12intheeventthattheyachtbegantosink.Funny,Ihadn’tthoughtofthat.

I started to feel slightly queasy and sat down for a moment on the bed,keenlyawareoftheslightrockingoftheship.Well,therewasnowayoutnow.Ichangedintomychefwhites,grabbedmyknifecase,andheadedbackuptothekitchen. After wandering the ship for fifteen minutes, I conceded defeat andaskedapassingsailorifhewouldbesokindastotakemetotheroyalgalley.Iwaslostandembarrassed.

OfMiceandMen

InTampatherewasararefreedaywhentheQueenwasbeinghostedatanonshoreevent.SeveralchefmatesandIdecidedthatatriptoFloridawasn’tcompletewithoutatriptoDisneyWorld.AchauffeuredLincolnTownCarwas at our disposal, and properly suited up, we all piled in. As weapproachedOrlando,weaskedourchauffeurtopleasepullintothenearestMcDonald’s.

Wereceivedplentyofstaresastheblacklimopulledintotheparkinglotandoutsteppedhalfadozenmeninfinelycutsuitsallcarryingsmallbags.Once inside McDonald’s, we all ducked into the nearest restroom for aquickchangeintoshortsandsummershirts.Thesuitsjusthadtogo!Now

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wewerereadyforadaywiththebigmouseandwejumpedbackintothelimo—burgersinhand.

BythenextmorningtheyachthadpulledintothecityofCaen,andacrowdwas gathered on Pegasus Bridge to greet us. We docked early and got busypreparing a lunch banquet for the king of Norway, the king of Belgium, thequeenof theNetherlands, theGrandDukeofLuxembourg,andothers.On themenuwasAvocadoBritannia(quitefitting),atenderbraisedstuffedchickenina Champagne sauce, carrots and broccoli in hollandaise, and parsleyed jerseypotatoes.FordessertImadeanicecreamsouffléwithwildstrawberries.Itwasamenubefittingour royalguestsandawell-dealt response toourFrenchcriticswhoalwayssaidthattheBritscouldn’tcook!

RoyalGifts

IwasalwaysamazedbythegiftsHerMajestyreceived.Somewerelavish,like the gold figurine of a camel underneath two gold palm trees—a giftfrom the emir of Qatar. Some gifts were useful, like ties, scarves, andcufflinks; and some gifts were downright weird. In Florida, HerMajestywaspresentedwithtwoseacowstocommemoratehervisit.Whenweheardthis, we chefs looked at each other in puzzlement.Were we expected tocookthem?FortunatelytheywerejusttobenamedbytheQueenandthenreleasedbackintothewild.

TheQueenalwaysgivesagiftinreturn,anditisalwaysthesame—asignedphotoofherself.

Later that day,Britanniaweighed anchor and headed toArrowmanches totakepartinthefortiethanniversaryofthelandingatNormandyandthensailedbackhome.Ithadbeenasuccessfulfirsttripforme.Thebanquethadgonewell,Ihadn’tbeenseasick,andtheyachthadstayedafloat.Ineverdidfindoutwhereliferaftstation12was.

BythetimeItraveledtotheUnitedStatesin1991IwasaseasonedchefonBritannia. That trip, however, marked my first time to America. The yachtdockedinMiamiforaweekandthensailedontoTampa.I’mnotsurewhatI

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expected, but Florida tookme completely by surprise. It was so tropicalwithlushvegetationeverywhere.Warmbreezesblewoffthewaterandthenightskywasasoftblue.EventhoughIwasworkinghard,Ifeltcompletelyrelaxedandtotallyspoiled.IhadflownfromLondonontheConcorde,andnowhereIwaswithbrilliantlyclearwatersbeneathandsunshineoverhead.

I remember that the trip was a big success for the Queen. There was abeautiful banquet for Presidents Ford and Reagan and their wives, GovernorLawton Chiles, future Governor Jeb Bush, Senators BobGraham and ConnieMack,aswellasahostofothers.ForthateventwepreparedOeufsDrumkilbo,usingthefinestMainelobsters.Thatwasfollowedwithasaddleoflamb,whichhad been boned and stuffed with a chicken mousse and then garnished withasparagus tips and aMadeira sauce. I remember sending out a beautiful coldlemonsouffléasdessert.

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MenuforPresidentsReaganandFord

Afterthebanquet,theQueenhostedaformalcocktailpartyondeckfortwohundredguests.Thatwasn’tatallunusual,but itmeantwechefshad tomove

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quickly.Soassoonastheroyaldiningtablewascleared(includingalltwenty-four fruit bowls, which were dismantled and the remaining fruit stowed backdown below) we turned our thoughts to canapés and food for the reception.Guests would arrive on board expecting lots to drink and eat while enjoyingmusicperformedbytheRoyalMarineBand.Appetizershadtobesmall,single-bite affairs, which could be swallowed quickly should a guest suddenly beintroduced to amember of the royal family. Popular canapéswere things liketartletsfilledwithfinelychoppedchickeninamildcurrysauce,smokedsalmonroulades,ortheever-popularminisausageroll.

SeveralyearslaterwhenIwasworkingforPrincessDiana,wewouldhavearecurring conversation about America. “Really, Darren,” she would say, “wemustgolivetheresomeday.”

My reply was always the same. “Yes, your Royal Highness. I would likethat.”ThattriptoFloridahadmadeastrongimpactonmeindeed!

INTHEGALLEYItwasamazinghowmuchfoodfivepalacechefscouldproduce inBritannia’stightkitchenquarters.Therewere twokitchensaspartof theroyalgalley,onefor pastry and the other, the main kitchen, for everything else. The pastry“kitchen”wasreallyapastryworkspacesinceithadnooven.Itwasjustaten-foot-longgalleywithasmallscuttleholethatletyoulookoutsideontothesea.

Themainkitchenwasabouttwiceasbigasthepastrykitchenandincludedasculleryarea,avegetablepreparea,andthemaincookingspace.Inthecenterofthegalleywasasquarestainlesssteeltablethatfourchefsworkedaround.Ithadlipsontheendtostopanydishesfromslidingoff.Behindthatworktableweretwostoveswithtwoovensunderneath,andofftothesideweretwoconvectionovens, primarily for pastry and alwayskept at 350degrees.Twobroilers, twosmall refrigerators,andabainmariemadeup the restof thegalley.Notmuchequipmentforafloatingpalacekitchen,butwemadeitwork.

BeatRetreat

Atacocktailreception,theRoyalMarineBandalwaysfinishestheeveningwithadrumcadenceto“beatretreat.”Thismilitarytraditiondatesbacktothe 1500s when Britain was often engaged in wars against its European

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neighbors.Itwasagreedbybothwarringpartiesthatassoonasitgotdark,fightingwouldend.Sodrumswouldbeatacadenceatdusktosignaltroopstohaltfightingand“retreat”backtocamp.

Throughtheyears,thisdrummingtraditionbecameassociatedwiththelowering of theBritish flag each evening.OnBritannia, all guestswouldstandonthetwoupperdecksandlookoutonthefloodlitmast.TheRoyalMarineBandwouldmarch back and forth on the quay side until the flagwaslowered.Oncedone,guestsknewthepartyhadcometoanendanditwastimetodisembark.

Inthepastrykitchen,laughingatthe“bullethard”mangoestheyhadsentmeforroyaldinner

Oddlyenough,themainstoragefridgewaslocatedthreedecksbelow,sharedwith the yacht’s other two galleys. Needmore tomatoes?Youwould have tocontact the dedicated sailor assistant, with the rank of “leading hand,” to godownandbring itup foryou.Want to takea lookat thepearsandmakesurethey will be ripe for tomorrow’s banquet? The leading hand would have tonegotiatethreeflightsofstairstofetchthemforyouandthesameagaintotakethemback—regardlessofhowcalmorroughtheseamightbe.

NowwhenIsay threeflightsdown, itwasn’tvia theship’sstaircases.Theactualroutefromonefloortoanotherontheworkingpartoftheyachtwasvialadders.OnBritanniayouclimbedupanddownladdersallthetime.Butitwasalittletrickytoclimbwhenyoualsohadyourhandsfullwithatrayofchocolatemousse.Theleadinghandwouldbalancefoodboxesandtraysonhisshouldersandclimbupanddowntheladdersbalancinghisloadasbesthecould.

Occasionallya tip in the swelling seaswould result inabox flyingoffhis

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shouldersandbackdownonto the floor.More thanonce Iwouldgetaboxofreally bruised fruit, but I didn’t dare complain. Being the leading handwas abrutal joband thatsailorhadallmysympathy.Unfortunately, Iwasn’table tofetchthemmyself.Civilians,“civvies”asthe“yachtees”affectionatelycalledus,were banned from going below decks and carrying food up. It was deemedunsafe.

WavesOutsideandInside

IlovedBritanniamostwhenweweredocked!I’machef,notasailor,andI’ve never been able to handle sailing in bad weather. Once after asuccessful statevisit toAustraliaweset sail forNewZealandandheadedouttotheBassStrait,abodyofwaternotoriousforitsroughswells.Cheesesouffléwasonthemenuthatnightfordinnerinsteadofsomethingeasylikecoldpudding.

AsIwascooking,theQueen’spagekeptcomingthroughthegalleyandannouncing that theheadcount fordinnerwasdropping.By this time I’dbrokenoutinasweatandmyhandswereclammy,butIwasdeterminedtoseethesoufflésfinishedbeforeheadingdowntomycabin.Justtocheck,Iopenedtheovenandsawthesouffléswobblingbackandforthintheirsilverdishes,intempowiththeyacht’ssway.Thatdidit.Everythingintheroomstarted towobble. Iwasable to serve the soufflés,but shortly thereafter Ijoinedtheotherswhocouldn’tstomachtheseas.

TherewasacertainrhythmtocookingonBritannia.Assoonasyouboardedyoucheckedallyourprovisionstomakesurenothinghadbeenlostbetweenthepalaceandtheyacht.Chefs traveledwiththeirownknivesandchefwhitesforjustthatreason.Afterthatyoustartedgettingteaready.Thetimingwastight.Ifthechefswereonboard,thatmeantinafewhourstheQueenandtherestoftheroyalentouragewouldbeboarding.

Soyoufinishedpreppingfor tea(the teacakeshadalreadybeenmadeandtransported)andyouimmediatelybegansettingupfruitbowls,whichwouldbesent to all the royal staterooms.Tins of fresh leaveswould have been packedalongside the food, and we used those as decoration. There wouldn’t be anymoreoncewewereoutatsea.Whenthatwasdone,weputupgallonsoflemon

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refresher.LemonrefresherisakindofearlylemonadewiththeunusualadditionofEpsomsalts.

Civviesatworkintheroyalgalley

SinceEpsomsaltisalsoaslightnaturallaxative,wealwayshadtoberightonwhenmeasuringoutthisrecipe!Thefamilyloveditandwealwaysmadeupa big batch once on board.Wewould also take out the butter pats andmakehundreds of tiny butter ballswhich could be frozen ahead and used on breadplates fordinner.Somechefswouldbemakingquartsofsaladdressing,eitherFrench vinaigrette or a creamy chive dressing. Salad was always served atmealtimes,andmakinglotsofdressinginadvancesavedtime.

Iwouldfallintotheroutineafterafewdays.Italwaystookmealittlewhiletogetmysealegsandtofigureouthowtoworkthetightquarters.Also,Ihadtoadjustmycookingtotakeintoaccountweatherconditions.Cookinginwarmerclimates could be difficult. If the weather was hot and muggy, icings andgelatinswouldn’t setand refrigerationwasn’tcloseby.Sometimes I’dsneakacake into theair-conditioneddining roomjust tocool the frostingdown to therighttemperature.

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BEEFCARBONNADE

4tablespoonsvegetableoil,divided2poundsleanstewingbeef,cutinto2-inchcubes1largeonion,peeledandsliced3clovesgarlic,chopped3largecarrots,peeledandchopped4ribscelery,chopped

3tablespoonsall-purposeflour

1¼cupsbeefbroth1¼cupsNewcastlebrownale

1bayleaf

½teaspoondriedthyme½teaspoonsalt4ouncesbuttonmushrooms,quartered1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Heat2tablespoonsoilinalarge,coveredcasserole,andbrownthemeat.Whenthemeatisbrown,setitasideinabowl.Inthesamecasserole,addtheremaining2tablespoonsoil,andsautétheonions,garlic,carrots,andcelery.Returnthemeattothecasseroleandaddtheflour.Cookfor1minute,stirringconstantly.Stirinthebrothandbrownale,andaddthebayleaf,thyme,salt,andmushrooms.

2.Bringthemeatmixturetoaboil,cover,andplacethecasseroleinthecenteroftheovenfor1½to2hours,oruntilthemeatistender.Removethebayleafbeforeserving.Servewithmashedpotatoes.

MAKES4SERVINGS

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CHEESESOUFFLÉ

TheQueenoftenrequestedthissoufflé.Shewoulddriveaspoonstraightdownthemiddleandpourfreshcreamrightin.

1tablespoonunsaltedbutter,forgreasing1¼cupsheavycreamplus1cupforgarnish1½tablespoonsall-purposeflour⅛teaspooncayennepepper1½teaspoonspotatostarch6tablespoonsfreshlygratedParmesancheese

1teaspoonbutter

6eggs,separatedSaltandfreshlygroundpepper1.Preheatovento400degrees.Placeabakingsheetinthecenteroftheoven.

2.Liberallygreasethesidesandbottomofan8-inchsoufflédishwiththeunsaltedbutter,andspreadathicklayer(about⅛inchthick)aroundthetopedgeofthedish.Thiswillensurethatthesoufflérisesabovethetop.Refrigerate.

3.Inaheavysaucepan,addthecream,flour,cayenne,potatostarch,Parmesan,and1teaspoonbutteroverahighheat,andwhiskuntilthebuttermeltsandthemixturecomestogetherintoathicksauce.Removefromtheheatandwhiskintheeggyolks.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste,andallowthemixturetocoolforabout10minutes.

4.Whiptheeggwhitesuntilstiffandfoldthemintothecheesemixtureuntiltheeggwhitesandcheesemixturearecombined.Spoonintothepreparedsoufflédish,andplacethesouffléontopofthebakingsheet.Bakefor18minutes,oruntilthetopisgoldenbrown.Removefromtheoven,andservestraightawaywithajugofheavycream.

MAKES6SERVINGS

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CheeseSoufflé

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TENDERLOINSTEAKSWITHSTILTONANDWALNUTCRUSTANDMUSHROOMCREAMSAUCE

Mushroomsauce

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter

1smallonion,finelychopped1clovegarlic,crushed12ounces(2cups)BabyBellaorcreminimushrooms,slicedPinchofsalt

2tablespoonsall-purposeflour

1cuphomemadeorcannedbeefbroth½cupheavycreamSaltandfreshlygroundpepperSteaks4center-cutbeeftenderloinsteaks,about6ounceseachSaltandpepper1tablespoonoliveoil

4ouncescrumbledStiltoncheese¼cupchoppedwalnuts

1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshparsley

1.Preheattheovento400degrees.2.Forthesauce,meltthebutterinalargesautépan,andaddtheonions,garlic,mushrooms,andapinchofsalt.Sautéthevegetablesuntiltheystarttosoften.Stirintheflourandletcookinthebutterforaminute.Addthebeefbrothandkeepstirringuntilthesaucethickens.Addthecreamandreduceslightly.

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3.Removethepanfromtheheat,andusingahandblender,blendthesauce.Onceblended,returnthepantotheheat.Adjusttheconsistency,andthinthesaucedownwithalittlecreamifitappearstoothick.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Keepthesaucewarmuntilthesteaksarecooked.Thesaucecanbemadeuptoadayaheadatthispointandrefrigerated.Justwarmthesauceoveralowflame.

4.Forthesteaks,letthemcometoroomtemperature.Seasontotastewithsaltandpepper.Inaseparatesautépanlargeenoughtoholdthesteaksinonelayer,addtheoliveoilandheatuntilhotbutnotsmoking.Addthesteaksandcookforabout2minutesoneachside.Removethepanfromtheheat,topeachsteakwithsomeoftheStiltonandwalnuts,andplacethepaninthehotovenfor10minutes,oruntildone.

5.Removethepanfromtheoven,andtransferthesteakstoacleanplate.Letthemrestforatleast5minutes.Checkthesauceandwarmifneeded.Servethesteaksonabedofthesauce,andgarnishwithfinelychoppedparsleyovereachsteak.

MAKES4SERVINGS.

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HADDOCKST.GERMAIN

Britain is famous for its fish and chips, and although I never saw the royalfamilyeatthemthetraditionalway,outofanewspaper,thisisaboutascloseastheycame.Thefishcanbeprepared—readytobroil—severalhoursinadvance.

2largerussetpotatoes

4cupsvegetableoil,fordeepfrying1½cupsJapanesepankobreadcrumbs,orregularbreadcrumbs¼cupall-purposeflour1stick(8tablespoons)unsaltedbutter

2eggyolks

4(6-ounce)haddockfillets,preferablycentercutKoshersaltandgroundwhitepepper¼cupfinelychoppedchives

1.Preheatthebroilertohigh.Peelthepotatoesandshapethemintorectangles.Cutthepotatoesinto1½×¼×¼-inchpiecesandimmersethemincoldwater.Heattheoilto250degrees.Drainthepotatoesandpatthemdrywithapapertowel.Placethepotatoesintothehotoil,andcookuntilthepotatoesaresoftbutnotcolored.Liftoutontoatraylinedwithpapertowels,andallowthepotatoestocool.Setasidethefryingoilforuselater.

2.Spreadthepankocrumbsontoadinnerplate.Dothesamewiththeflouronaseparateplate.Meltthebutterandstirintheeggyolks.Coateachofthehaddockfilletsfirstintheflour,thentheeggandbuttermix,andfinallythepanko.Makesurethefishiscompletelycoated,andthenplaceeachpieceontoabakingsheetabout1inchapart.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Broilthehaddockforabout8minutesuntilthepankocoatingisgoldenbrownandthefishistender.

3.Whilethefishisbroiling,reheattheoilto375degrees.Carefullydropthe

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potatoesintheoil,andcookforabout5minutesuntilgoldenandcrispy.Removetoaplateanduseapapertoweltodrainofftheexcessoil.Seasonwithsalt.

4.Liftthehaddockoffthebakingsheetontotheservingplates,andaddthecrispygoldenpotatoes.Garnishwiththechivesandservewithhollandaisesauce,ifdesired.

MAKES4SERVINGS

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LEMONREFRESHER

One of the first jobs after boarding Britannia was to make lemon refresher.Every member of the royal family would reach for a refreshing glass of thisEnglish “homemade lemonade” while sitting on deck. This calls for a fewspecialingredientsyoumightnothaveinthecupboard.TheEpsomsaltsyoucanfind at Whole Foods, and the citric acid and tartaric acid are commoningredientsinbeermaking.Youcanfindthematbeer-makingsupplystoresorthroughonlinesources.

4½cupssugar2tablespoonsEpsomsalts3teaspoonscitricacid

3teaspoonstartaricacid

6lemons,juiceandzest

5cupswater

Placethesugar,Epsomsalts,citricacid,tartaricacid,lemonjuice,andzestinabowlandwhiskthemtogether.Bringthe5cupswatertoaboilandpouritoverthelemonmix,whiskinguntilcombined.Refrigerateuntilcoldanddecantintoscrew-topbottles.Toserve,dilute¼cupofthelemonrefresherwith2cupsofwaterovericeortotaste.

MAKES2QUARTSCONCENTRATE

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COLDLEMONSOUFFLÉ

3lemons,juiceandzest3eggs,separated¾cupsugar1packetunflavoredgelatin

5tablespoonswater

1¼cupsheavycream,whippeduntilstiff1½cupsheavycream,whippedstiffforrosettegarnishGratedchocolate1.Foldasheetofparchmentpaperinhalf,andthenwrapitaroundtheoutsideofan8-inchsoufflédish.Itshouldextendthreeincheshigherthanthelip.Staplethetopandbottomoftheparchmenttightly.Placetheparchment-wrappedsoufflédishonabakingsheet,andplacethebakingsheetintherefrigeratortochill.

2.Placethelemonjuice,zest,eggyolks,andsugarinalargemixingbowlthatwillfitsnuglyonapanofboilingwater,andwhisktheingredientsuntilcombined.Heatforabout2minutesuntilthemixtureheatsup,whiskingoccasionally.Removefromtheheat,andwhiskwithanelectricmixeruntilthemixtureiscool.Meanwhile,softenthegelatininthewater,andwarmitjusttodissolve.Addthegelatintotheeggmixture,andwhiskitin.

ColdLemonSoufflé

3.Inalargebowlwhiptheeggwhitesuntilstiff.Foldthemintotheeggyolkmixture,alternatingwith1¼cupswhippedcream.Removethebakingsheetfromtherefrigerator,andcarefullypourthefillingintothesoufflédish,makingsurethatitcomesatleast1inchabovethelipofthedishandistouchingtheparchment.Don’ttouchthesoufflédishorparchment,butinsteadusethebakingsheettomovethesouffléintotherefrigerator.

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Refrigerate6to8hoursorovernight.Carefullypeelofftheparchmentpaperanddiscard.

4.Garnishthetopofthesouffléwithrosettesofwhippedcream,andsprinklethechocolateontop.

MAKES6SERVINGS

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TARTETATIN

TheTatinsistersinFranceinventedthisdishmorethanonehundredyearsago.Not longafter that itmade itsway to thepalaceandbecamearoyal favorite.The dish is still served all across France, usually with a big bowl of crèmefraiche.Theroyalfamilyprefersitwithabowlofcrèmechantillyflavoredwithbrandy—alotofit.

If you can’t find lard, then shortening is a reasonable substitute. You canalsomake thisusing justEuropeanbutter; it’sa lot richerandcrumblier,butdelicious.

Pastry1¼cupsall-purposeflour¼teaspoonsalt1½sticks(¾cup)chilledunsaltedbutter¼cuplardorshorteningColdwater

Caramel

2cupssugar1½cupswater,divided

Filling½stick(¼cup)unsaltedbutter2poundsGrannySmithapples,peeledandsliced1lemon,zestedandjuiced¼cupgranulatedsugar1.Forthepastry,pulsetheflourandsaltafewtimesinafoodprocessorfittedwithametalblade,justtomix.Cutthechilledbutterandlardintocubes,andaddittotheflourmixture.Pulsebrieflyuntilthemixtureformslittleballs,likemoistcrumbs,withnochunksofbutterorlardvisible.Remember,youhavetopulse,notrun,thefoodprocessor.

2.Sprinkle1tablespooncoldwateroverthesurfaceofthedough.Pulseonce.

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Repeatwith2to3moretablespoonsandpulsebriefly.Addmorewaterifneeded,1tablespoonatatime.Thedoughshouldbeslightlysticky,butstiffenoughtocometogethertoformaball.Wrapthedoughinplastic.Formitintoaflattenedball,andrefrigerateforatleast30minutes.

4.Forthecaramel,bringthesugarandwatertoaboilinasmall,heavy-bottomedsaucepan.Oncethemixturecomestoaboil,whiskgently,andthenletitboilwithoutstirringuntilthesugarisagoldencaramelcolor.Workingquickly,pouraboutone-third3.Preheattheovento350degrees.ofthecaramelintothebottomofalightlygreased9-inchcakepan,swirlingthepantogetthecarameltocoverthewholebottom.Setthecakepanaside.

5.Carefullyaddabout½cupwatertotheremainingcaramelinthesaucepan,andletitcool.

6.Forthefilling,meltthebutterinaskilletlargeenoughtoholdalltheapples.Addthesugar,apples,lemonzest,andjuice.Cookfor5minutes,oruntiltheapplesstarttosoften.Removefromtheheat,andallowtheapplestocool,tiltingtheskilletsothatthejuicesrunofftheapples.Arrangeaportionofapplepiecesinadecorativefashiononthebottomofthecaramelizedcakepanuntiltheapplesfillonelayer.Thentopwithalltheremainingapples.

7.Rolloutthepastrydoughtoabout½inchthick,andplacethedoughoverthetopoftheapples,cuttingaroundtheedgesofthecakepantofit.

8.Placeintheovenfor20to30minutes,oruntilthecaramelstartstobubblearoundtheedgesofthecrust.Removefromtheoven,andcarefullyinvertthepanontoawarmplate.Pourtheremainingcaramelsauceoverthetopoftheapples,andservewithwhippedcreamlacedwithbrandy.

MAKES6SERVINGS

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YOGURTBRÛLÉEWITHMANGOANDPAPAYA

1¼cupsheavywhippingcream1500-gramcontainer(about2cups)TotalGreekyogurt½cupDemerarasugar1ripemango

1smallpapaya

1lime,zestedandjuiced1.Inalargebowlwhipthecreamuntilstiff.Foldintheyogurt,andspoonintoaservingdish.SprinkletheDemerarasugaroverthetop,andrefrigerateforatleast24hours.Thesugarcrystallizesandformsacrispytopping.

2.Peelanddicethemangoandpapayaintoasmallbowl.Stirthelimezestandjuiceintothefruitmix.Servethefruitalongsidethebrûlée.

MAKES4SERVINGS

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JAMANDCREAMSPONGE

Thisisaversatilerecipe.Thecakeisalightgenoise,whichwesometimessplitin half and filled with a honey or lemon flavored cheese. But more often wewouldfillitwithwhippedcreamandhomemadestrawberryjammadefromtheQueen’sstrawberriesgrownatBalmoralCastle.

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,forgreasing6eggyolks

2eggs

½cupplus1tablespoonsugar½teaspoonvanillapaste½cupplus2tablespoonsall-purposeflour½stick(¼cup)unsaltedbutter,melted

1cupraspberryseedlessjam

2cupsheavycream,whippedstiff

1tablespoonpowderedsugar1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Lightlygreasean8×3-inchcakering,andplaceacircleofparchmentpaperonthebase.Greasetheparchmentpaper.

2.Setalargemixingbowloverapanofboilingwater,andaddtheyolks,eggs,sugar,andvanillapastetothebowl.(Thebowlshouldbetouchingthewater.)Whisktogetheruntilthemixtureiscombined.Whiskoccasionallyuntiltheeggmixturestartstogethot.Removethemixingbowlfromtheheat,andwhiskwithanelectricmixeruntilthebowlbecomescoldandtheeggmixturehasdoubledinvolumeandispaleincolor.

3.Sifttheflourandaddittotheeggmixturealongwiththemeltedbutter,

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foldingitincarefullybyhand.Pourthemixintothepreparedcakeringandbakefor20minutesinthecenteroftheoven,oruntilthetopisgoldenbrownandspringsbackwhenlightlypressed.

4.Removethecakespongefromtheovenandinvertitontoacoolingrack.Leavethespongeontherackuntilitiscold.Removethecakeringandparchmentpapercarefully,andslicethespongeintothreehorizontallayers.Spreadtheraspberryjamequallyonthebottomtwolayers.Topthesebottomtwolayersequallywiththewhippedcream.Placethemiddlelayercarefullyontopofthebottomlayer.Finishbyplacingthetoplayeronthemiddlelayer.Dustwiththepowderedsugarandserve.

MAKES8SERVINGS

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ISLEOFWIGHTPUDDING

ThispuddingisanoldBritishdishthatusedtocontaincurrantsandraisinsandwas drizzled with golden syrup. Milk was poured over the pastry to make asyrupysauce.Changingthefillingtoblueberriesanddrizzlingwithhoneymakesthis dish taste delicious. Pouring cream on top, instead of milk, creates alavendersyrupsaucethatlooksheavenlytoo.

2cupsall-purposeflour

½cuplardorvegetableshortening1stick(8tablespoons)unsaltedbutter1teaspoonvanillapaste2tablespoonswater

2cupsblueberries

¾cuphoney½cupheavycream

1tablespoongranulatedsugar1.Inalargebowlcombinetheflour,lard,butter,andvanillapaste,andrubthemtogetherwithyourfingersuntilthemixtureresemblesfinecrumbs.Thengraduallystirinthewateruntilitformsacrumblydough.Wrapthedoughinplasticwrap,andchillforaboutonehour.Whilethedoughisresting,preheattheovento350degrees,andsetarackonthemiddleshelf.

2.Onalightlyflouredsurface,usingalightlyflouredrollingpin,rollthedoughintoa12×8-inchrectangle,keepingthedough’sthicknessatabout½inch.Coverthedoughwiththeblueberriesanddrizzlethehoneyoverthetop.

3.Withtheshortsideoftherectanglefacingyou,rollupthedough,andplaceitonajellyrollpan,seamsideonthebottom.Crumpleupsomesheetsofaluminumfoiltopackaroundthesidesoftherolltosupportitasitbakes.

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Bakeinthemiddleoftheovenforabout20minutes.Thepastryshouldbeagoldenbrown,andtheberriesshouldburst,oozingtheirjuices.

4.Removethepanfromtheoven,takeawaythealuminumfoil,andcarefullypourthecreamoverthetopoftheroll.Sprinklethegranulatedsugarovertheroll,andreturnittotheovenforanother15minutes.Removethepanfromtheovenandspoonthesyrupinthebottomofthepanoverthetopoftheroll.Allowtocoolforatleast15minutesbeforeslicing.Slicetherollonthebakingsheet,andtransfereachslicetoaservingdishorplate.Servewithclottedcreamorwhippedcream.

MAKES6SERVINGS

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CHAPTERFIVE

BalmoralCastle

AutumnintheHighlands

Balmoral Castle is the holiday home of the royal family. They vacation hereeachyearbeginningin lateAugustandstay throughearlyOctober.Thecastle,located in Scotland, just fiftymileswest of Aberdeen, coversmore than fiftythousandacresofland.TheriverDee,whichflowsnexttothecastle,isloadedwithfish,especiallysalmon,andthereisplentyofgameforthecatching.Itisabeautiful, somewhat wild location and as private a place as the royal familycouldhopetofind.

MyfirsttriptoBalmoralCastlecametwoweeksafterIhadstartedworking.Iwas sent up on the overnight train fromLondon for staff “changeover day.”AlongwithaboutonehundredothermembersoftheBuckinghamPalacestaff,Iboarded the overnight sleeper at Kings Cross station in London, bound forAberdeen. Once in Scotland, we boarded a chartered coach going into thehighlandsalongtheA93tothecastle.

BeforemewasthishugecastleIhadheardsomuchabout.IrememberthecoffeeroommaidAnneGardnerpointingoutLochnagar,athirty-eight-hundred-foot black mountain peak, in the distance. “The Queen calls it her mountainjewel,”themaidsaidwithpride.Indeed.

As thecoach turned into theouteredgeof theproperty,wepassed theoldCrathieKirk—thechurchwheretheroyalfamilywouldattendreligiousservices—wentacross theriver,andcontinued through themaingate. Iwasextremelyexcited,aswellasquitenervous,becauseIwouldnowbecookingfortheroyalfamily,insteadoffeedingstaffatBuckinghamPalace.ThecoachturnedupthechainwalkandcametoahaltatthePenndoor—ineffect,thebackdoortothecastle. We disembarked and I was directed to lodgings over the garage. Idumpedmybagsonthebed,quicklychangedintochef’swhites,andheadedtothe castle kitchen.Outside on thewalkway it hitme—the deep silence of theplaceandthesmellofmorethantenthousandacresofpinetrees.

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LookinguptothePenndoor,theBalmoralstaffentrance.IfyoulookthroughthearchandintothePennyard,youcanseethekitchenwindows.

Balmoralisaworkingcastle,employingfiftyfull-timestaffandasmanyasonehundredpart-timerswhentheroyalfamilyisinresidence.Castleemployeesfarm threehundredacres, and seventy-fiveacresare rentedout toneighboringfarms.PrincePhilip,theQueen’shusband,hasimprovedthegrounds,buildingaformal garden, water garden, andmost importantly—for the chefs—a kitchengarden.Mr.JohnYoungoverseesallthegardens.Histeamworksallyearlongtoensurethatthegardenslooktheirbestcomesummer.Thekitchengardenwasajoyforme.Iespeciallylovedtheraspberriesgrownthere.Theyweresofullofjuicethatafterpickingabucket,yourhandsandyourchef’swhiteswerestainedpink.Thetastewasincomparable—andIknow,becauseonlyoneofeverytwoberriespickedevermadeitintomybucket.

Inthelarderkitchen

Itwasn’t ahugegarden,but itdid supply the royal table toanastonishingdegree.Wewouldharveststrawberries,raspberries,redcurrants,blackcurrants,gooseberries, frais de bois, blackberries, tayberries, rhubarb, and, of course,blueberries. Then there were the plums. The variety planted was called theVictoriaplum,andtothisdayI’venevertastedanyfiner.Thetreeswereprolific

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producers, so everyone got their share. Princess Diana adored them, and theDukewouldtuckafewinhispocketafteravisittothepastrykitchen.

Thevegetableswerejustwhatyou’dexpectfromanEnglishgarden.Plentyofonions,carrots,cabbage,potatoes,springonions,turnips,leeks,Englishpeas,andlettucesweregrownthere.Andinanodtomoremoderntastes,therewerealsoallkindsofsquash,beets,beans,cauliflower,andceleriac.Weuseditall—andiftheyearbroughtagoodharvest,thenthestaffgotspoiledtoo.

SHOOTINGPARTIESShooting parties take place nearly every weekend at Balmoral. Guests arriveFridayeveningintimefordinnerandsomeseriousplanningforthenextday’sshoot.Gentlemenguests,whostillmakeupthemajorityofshooters,areupearlyfor breakfast the next day.A typical buffet breakfastwould be fishcakeswithfresh tomato sauce, poached eggs en croûte, deviled kidneys, and CurriedSalmonKedgeree.Itisheartyfoodmeanttolastyouuntillunchtime.

Ladies join themen later.Some intrepid femaleguestsmightcollect felledbirds andpass themon to theghillies, or gamekeepers, to tag and send to thegamelarder.Eachguestreceivesabraceofbirdsastheirpartingweekendgift.Theremainingbirdsaresenttothekitchen.

Shootingday lunchesarealfrescoaffairsandastepback in time.Lunch isloadedontosilvertrayswithlids,whichwecalled“hotboxes,”andthreetrayscanfitintoaleathercase.Thesecasesarebeautifulantiques,datingbacktothereignofKingGeorgeVI.Theywerecraftedoutof thefinestwood, linedwithpadding, and finishedwith red leather. It’s a regal presentation for anoutdoorlunch.

WildBalmoral

BalmoralCastle is abuttedby at least one thousand acresof dense forest.Theroyalfamilyhasworkedhardtoreestablishwhatwasonceaseverelydepleteddeerpopulation.Thepineforestprovidessanctuaryforredandroedeer,redandblackgrouse,squirrels,goldeneagles,andosprey.Generallyhunting, which in England is called “stalking,” happens during the earlypartof theweekandshooting isdoneonThursday,Friday,andSaturday.DeerhuntingatBalmoralhelpsmanagethereddeerherd,protectsthelocal

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habitat,andensuresthelong-termhealthofthewilddeerpopulation.Theestatealsokeepsanimals, including some rarebreeds.Oneof the

mostunusual isanextremelyold sheepbreedcalledSoay. Inappearance,they look like small woolly deer. Themeat from these animals is sweet,verylean,andsimilarintastetoelk.ItistheKobebeefoflamb.

WilliamandHarry, theyoungest royals,were tooyoung to either shootorhuntdeer.Buttheydidn’twanttomissoutentirely.Sotheywouldoftengooutafter tea in aLandRover to hunt rabbits. Itwas considered good practice forbothboysand it servedapracticalpurpose.The rabbitswerecleaned,cooked,deboned,andchoppedfortheQueen’scorgis’dinner.

Withalltheshootingandhuntinggoingon,itwasnowonderwehadgameonthemenumostdaysatBalmoral.TheDukewouldhaveusmarinatethefinercuts, the loins and fillets, and then he would barbecue them in the evening.Secondclass jointswouldbecutupforstews,braised in redwine,andservedwithmashedpotatoesduringthenextshootinglunch.Thirdclassjointswouldbesent to the butcher in the village to grind up for sausages, and also laterbarbecued.

THEBOUNTIFULRIVERDEEBalmoral is a fisherman’s paradise aswell. TheRiverDee is one of the fourmajorsalmonrunningrivers inGreatBritain,andit isafast flowingriver thatwindsitswaytowardthenextclosesttown,Ballater.Asitflowsdownward,therivereddies intopoolshereand there,perfect spots forsalmon,grilse,andseatrouttorest.Grilseareyoungsalmon,usuallyfour-year-olds,makingtheirfirstjourney upstream to spawn. There was just such a spot in the river not fiveminutes from the castle kitchen and it was a favorite of PrincesWilliam andHarry.They launchedpaddleboats froma small sandybanknear the river andwouldplaythereforhours.Theyalsolearnedtofishatanearlyagefromtheirdad.

TheHuntressDiana

Princess Diana wasn’t keen on hunting, shooting, or fishing. “Why does

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everyone in this family like killing things?” she askedmeone day in thepastrykitchen.ShewaschafingatthepressureputonherbyPrinceCharlesandotherfamilymemberstohuntastag.Onedayshewentoutearlywithherfavoriteghillie,SandyMasson.Shewasgonemostoftheday,butwasinthekitchenwhenIreturnedtocookdinnerthatevening.

“Ididit!”sheyelled.“Igotone,Ishotadeer...poorthing.”Youcouldtellshewashappyandsadatthesametime.

“Darren,domeafavor,”sheasked.“Tellmewhenitwillbeservedfordinner.Ijustcan’tdoit.Ican’tbearthethoughtofthatdeerlookingupatmefrommyplate.”

PrinceCharles isanavidfishermanandwouldspendhoursstanding in theDee,oftenalongsidetheQueenMotherwithwateruptothetopsoftheirwaders.Hewouldheft enormous salmon into the royalkitchen tobeweighed, tagged,andcatalogued.Thiswassalmonsofreshitseyesseemedtofollowyouaroundtheroom.Noneofthechefswereallowedtotouchituntilinstructionsweresentfromupstairs.Usuallyitwouldbegrilled,poached,orbroiledwithagarnishandserved on silver in the dining room. The trimmings weren’t wasted either—goujonsde saumonwith sauceTyroliennealwaysbroughta smile in the royalnurseryathightea.

AFAMILYONHOLIDAYAt Balmoral I saw the royal family up close, something nearly impossible atBuckinghamPalace.Forthemitwasvacationandthemoodwasrelaxed.Mostof the familywouldcomedown to thekitchenat somepoint. Ifwedidn’t seetheminthekitchen,thenwewouldseethemattheGhilliesBallandmaybeevenhaveadanceortwo.

Balmoralwelcomedtheextendedroyalfamilyaswell.OnecharmingguestwasLadySarahArmstrongJones,theQueen’sniece,whovisitedeachsummeron holiday from university. She was a kind young lady with a sweet tooth.Shortbreadwasherfavorite.Wemadesuretopackatinortwoinherluggagebeforesheleftinthefall.

Even though I was working, Balmoral always felt like a holiday tome. Idon’tthinkIwasaloneinthatfeeling.Whethertrueoranecdotal,thereseemedto be an increase in staff liaisons at Balmoral. It was given the nickname

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“immoralBalmoral.”Dresswasextremelycasual.Ienteredthekitchensonemorningandsawan

oldergentlemanstandingaround ina frayedsweaterwithholes in theelbows.Thepantshadseenbetterdaystoo,andthebootsweremuddy.Ididn’tpaymuchattention. He was just a gardener, probably looking for something to eat. Inpassing I asked a fellow chef the gardener’s name. “Gardener?” he laughed.“YoumeantheDuke?”ItwasPrincePhilip,theQueen’shusband,andIhadn’trecognizedhim.

PrinceAndrewbeingwelcomedbytheroyalstaffafterreturningfromtheFalklands.PrinceCharleswasthere,too,dressedastheoldmanofLochnagar.

I’mafraidthatforPrincessDiana,Balmoralwasabitofatrial.Thatspiritof“tromparoundinyouroldBarbourandwellies”wasnotexactlyherstyle.Shewasanelegantclotheshorse.Oldrubberbootswerethelastthingyouwereapttofindinhercloset.So,whiletherestofthefamilywasoutfittedwithwadersforsalmonfishing,Dianacouldbefoundwiththeboys,WilliamandHarry,inthenursery.Shewouldcomedowntothekitchenmidmorning,oftenwithWilliamandHarryinfullridinggear,fororangejuiceorcereal.Thentheywouldalltrekofftothestablesfortheboys’ridinglessons.WilliamrodeasmallponynamedSmokeyandtheprincesswouldwalkalongside.Othertimesallthreewouldpopinforsnacks,usuallyfruit,beforeheadingoff to theboatpool tosplashin theDee.PrinceCharleswasrarelywiththem,preferringtohuntorpaintpicturesathiseasel.

Lateeveningmealsdrovetheprincessabitcrazyaswell.DinneratBalmoraldidn’tusuallybeginuntileightfifteen,orlateriftheDukedecidedtobarbecueupinthehills.Theneverythingwasloadedontoatrailerandtransportedtothe

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site. It wasn’t unusual for dinner to finish around eleven. The Duke lovedgrilling outdoors and other family members would pitch in as well.Unfortunately,theywouldn’tletPrincessDianaanywherenearthegrill.Herjob,alongwiththeQueen’s,wastopullonyellowrubberglovesandrinsethepotsinthesinkafterward.Indeed,itwasnotherfavoritewaytopasstheevening.

Thelodge’sdiningroom

Soshedevisedaplan.Shewouldcomedowntothepastrykitchenforachataroundfiveeacheveningandwait.Thenassoonasthechefsreceivedwordthatthefamilywouldbehavingabarbecuefordinner,PrincessDianawould leavethekitchenandheadforthenursery,promptlygivingthenanny,NannyBarnes,thenightoff.Theprincesscould thenhavesupperwith theboysandget theminto bed. The nursery had its ownmenu and she and the boys would have agrand time eating her childhood favorites like cottage pie and pudding. Ofcourse,whenPrinceCharlescameintosay“Weareoutfordinnertonight,” itwastoolate.Withthenannyunavailable,PrincessDianahadtheperfectexcusetostayin.

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MeetingaPrincess

PastryChefRobertPinehadthenightoff.IwastoldtosuggesttotheDuke,whenhecameintothekitchen, that therewasapplepieandicecreamfordessertoralternatively,theQueen’sfreshlypickedberrieswithicecream.ImemorizedthislittlespielandfeltreadytospeaktotheDuke.Noproblem.So, itcaughtmebysurprisewhenPrincessDianawalked into thekitchenaskingforayogurt.AllIcouldthinkofwas,Wellsheisn’t theDuke,I’msupposedtospeaktotheDuke,forgodsake!Wherewillshesit,whereisshegoingtoeatheryogurt,isthereaspoonanywhere?

MewithRobertPine,theQueen’spastrychefatBalmoral.ItwasthefirsttimeImetPrincessDiana.

Flustered,Iturnedaroundandbangedmyheadintosomeflanringsthathung over the prep table. The princess burst out laughing. I managed tocollectmyselfandgettheprincessheryogurtandshefoundaspottositonthe chest freezer, all thewhile eating and chattingwithme.Suddenly theDuke showed and exclaimed, “Aha! Caught you!” pointing a finger atPrincess Diana. She laughed, slid off the freezer and walked out of thekitchen.

After that, the princess came by fairly frequently to get a snack or tochat. She would always sit on the chest freezer since there really wasn’tanyplaceelse.Infact,weusedthefreezertopasakindofshelfandwouldputcakesandtartsonituntilweneededtoservethem.Iftherewasafruitcakecoolingonthefreezer,PrincessDianawouldsitandchatwithus,allthewhilepickingouttheraisinsfromthecake.Itwouldbeincrumbsbythe

Page 172: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

timesheleft.

TheGhilliesBall

TheGhilliesBallwasatwice-a-yeareventatBalmoral.ThetermghillieisGaelic forgamekeeper, and the ballwas a Scottish dance party held as athankyoutothestaffforalltheirhardworkandeverymemberoftheroyalfamilyinresidenceandtheirguestswouldattend.TheQueen’spipemajorwould announce the first dance, usually starting with a “Dashing WhiteSergeant”—atraditionaldancewheretwowomendancewithoneman.

Scottishdancesaresimilartosquaredancesinthatyouarepassedfrompartner to partner, ultimately getting to dancewith everyone in the room.Prince Charles and Princess Diana especially enjoyed themselves. Theyboth knew all the steps and Prince Charles would spin Princess Dianaaroundfasterandfaster.Theyhadagreattimeanditseemedtomethattheyweredeeplyinlove.

During one Ghillies Ball, I was withmy buddies in the corner whensuddenlythegrouppartedtomakewayforPrincessDiana.“Darren,comedancewithme,”shesaid.Ifeltmyfacegobeetred.

“ButYourRoyalHighness,”Iblurtedout,“Idon’tknowhow.”“Oh, it’seasy,”shesmiled.“I’ll showyou.”Shegrabbedmyarmand

pulledmeontothefloorasthepipemajorannouncedaSt.Bernard’swaltz.Well, I had no ideawho St. Bernardwas,much less that he had awaltznamedafterhim.Theprincesswasagreatdancerandshetriedtoshowmethe steps. She soon realized Iwas hopeless, so to teaseme, she spunmearound and started asking everyone to get out of the way. “Make way,comingthrough!”sheholleredatPrinceAndrew.ShespunmetowardtheQueen.ForachillingmomentIthoughtshewasgoingtopassmeofftoHerMajestybutinstead,shespunmepasther.Ihadreceivedmycomeuppance.

EveryyearthereafterPrincessDianamadeapointtodancewithmeattheGhilliesBall.

Page 173: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

CURRIEDSALMONKEDGEREE

Hearty breakfasts before a morning in the icy cold winds and rains of thehighlandswereanecessity.Thiskedgeree fits thebill.Salmon trimmings fromthe freshlycaught fishare lightlypoachedandadded tobasmatirice,reducedcream, and spices, then topped with hard-boiled eggs and fresh parsley. It isbettermadewithcentercutsalmon,withthosebigpinkflakespokingoutofthecreamyrice.Often thisdishwouldbe requested fornurserybreakfast,withoutthecurry,butwithlotsofcrispybacon.Wesometimesusedsmokedhaddock,ifitwasavailable,insteadofsalmon.

1quartwater1cupbasmatirice

2cupsheavycreamorhalf-and-half

1tablespooncurrypowder,ortotaste4hard-boiledeggs,peeledSaltandfreshlygroundpepper1½poundssalmon,poached,thencooledandflaked¼cupfinelychoppedgreenonions2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshparsley1.Bringthewatertoarollingboilina6-quartpot,andaddtherice.Cookuntilthericeistender,andthendrainthericeinacolander.Returnthepantotheheat,andaddthecreamandcurrypowder.Simmeruntilthecreamstartstothickenslightly.Warmtheeggsbyplacingtheminasmallpanofsimmeringwater(about3cups).Shutofftheheat,andlettheeggssteepinthewaterforafewminutes.2.Addthericetothecurriedcreamandstir.Oncethericeishot,seasonwiththesaltandpepperandstirintheflakedsalmongently,takingcarenottobreakupthesalmonpieces.

3.Spoonthekedgereeintoawarmservingdishandsprinklewiththegreenonionsandparsley.Removetheeggsfromthewaterandcutintoquarters.Garnishtheedgesofthekedgereewiththeeggs.

MAKES4SERVINGS

Page 174: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen
Page 175: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

SALMONFISHCAKES

2poundsredskinpotatoes,peeled4tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshparsley

1teaspoonlemonjuice

¾teaspoonsalt⅛teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

1eggyolk

1½poundsalmonfillet,poachedandchilled½cupall-purposeflourplusflourfordusting2cupswhitebreadcrumbsorpanko(Japanese-stylebreadcrumbs)2eggs,beaten3cupspeanutoil,fordeepfryingFriedparsley,forgarnish(optional)Freshtomatosauce(optional)1.Coverthepotatoeswithcoldwaterina6-quartpot,andbringthewatertoaboil.Cookfor18minutes,oruntiltender,drainthepotatoes,andreturnthemtothepot.Mashthepotatoesuntilsmooth,andaddtheparsley,lemonjuice,salt,pepper,andeggyolk.Flakethesalmon,andfoldintothepotatomixture,mixinggently.Allowthemixturetocoolforatleast1hour,orovernightintherefrigerator.

2.Dustyourworksurfacewithalittleflour,lessthanatablespoon,andshapethefishcakesintoeven-sizeballs.Formintoneatcakesbypressingdowngentlywithaspatula.Eachcakeshouldbeabout2½inchesby1inch.

3.Puttheflour,breadcrumbs,andeggsinthreeseparatebowlslinedupinarow.Firstdredgethesalmoncakesintheflour,shakingofftheexcess.Thendipthemintothebeatenegg,andthenrolltheminthebreadcrumbs.Placethefishcakesonacleandishandrefrigerateforatleast30minutesorupto24hours.

4.Addthepeanutoiltoadeepsaucepan,andheatuntilhotbutnotsmoking.

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Deep-frythesalmoncakes,afewatatimewithoutcrowdingthepan,untilgoldenbrownonbothsides.Liftoutofthepan,gentlyblotontoapapertowel,andserveimmediatelywithfriedparsley(directionsonpage129)andfreshtomatosauceifdesired.

MAKES12CAKESOR6SERVINGS

A royal breakfast: (from left to right) Curried SalmonKedegree,PoachedEggsenCroûte,SalmonFishcakeswithtomatosauce

Page 177: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

POACHEDEGGSENCROÛTE

Breakfasts were usually served buffet style, so it was necessary to create a“basket” for poached eggs to sit in, so that they could be easily lifted andprotectedfromhardeningtooquicklyfromtheheatofthehotplate.FriedbreadisamustforanyEnglishbreakfast.Asliceofbreadisdroppedintothebacongreaseandreheateduntilgoldenandcrispy.Thisdishisameal initselfwhenyouplacechoppedcrispybacon in thebottomof thebreadbeforeplacing theeggontopandaspoonfulofhollandaiseovertheegg.

1loafdensewhitebread,notsliced4cupsvegetableoil,forfrying1quartboilingwater1tablespoonwhitewinevinegar1teaspoonsalt4eggs

1tablespoonchoppedchives

1.Trimthecrustsofftheloaf,andcutthebreadintofour,2-inch-thickslices.Reserveanyleftoverbreadandcrustsforbreadcrumbs.Usingcookiecutters,cuta2½-inchcircleoutofeachthickslice.Thenwitha2-inchcutter,cutthree-fourthsofthewaydownintothe2½-inchbreadcircle,butbecarefulnottocutallthewaythrough.(Thiswillbethe“cup”fortheegg.)Heatthevegetableoilto350degreesanddropinthebread“croûtes.”Fryuntilgoldenonallsides,andremovethecroûtestoaplateandpapertowel;keepwarm.

2.Inalargepan,bringthewatertoarollingboilandaddthevinegarandsalt.Carefullycracktheeggsintotheboilingwater,orifyouwouldprefer,cracktheeggsintoateacuponeatatimeandtipintothewater.Swishthewatersothattheeggsdonotsticktothebottomofthepanandboiltheeggsforabout4minutes.Whiletheeggsarecooking,carefullyremovethecenterdiskofeachcroûte,leavinga“basket”inthecenter.

3.Usingaslottedspoonlifttheeggsoutofthewater,andplaceoneinthecenterofeachcroûte.Sprinklewiththechivestoserve.

MAKES4SERVINGS

Page 178: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

GRAVADLAXWITHSAUCESUEDOISE

Gravadlax,or“buriedsalmon,”getsitsnamefromseventeenth-centurysailorswhousedtocoverthesalmoninsaltandburyitinthesandtopreserveit.Todaywe still cover and cure the fish in salt, but it’s only buried in the back of therefrigeratorforfivedays.Thiswasservedoftenatthepalaceasafirstcourse,slicedonabedoflettuceandservedwiththesauce.Butitalsowasservedasacanapéforreceptions.

Lax3poundsAtlanticsalmonfillet,preferablymid-cut4tablespoonskoshersalt4tablespoonssugar

2teaspoonscrushedwhitepeppercorns1cupfirmlypackedchoppedfreshdill,dividedSauce3eggyolks

3tablespoonssugar

¼cupplus1tablespoonsweetGermanmustard2cupscornoilorotherneutralflavoredoilSaltandfreshlygroundpepper1tablespoonredwinevinegar(optional)Lemonwedgesforgarnish1.Cutthesalmoninhalfacrossthemiddleandpatdrywithpapertowels.Removetheskinfrombothpiecesandsave.Inasmallbowlmixthesalt,4tablespoonssugar,peppercorns,and½cupdilluntilcombined.Tossthecuremixoverthefish,andrubiton.Layapieceofplasticwraplargeenoughtoaccommodatethesalmonflatonacounter.Placealayerofsalmonskinontopoftheplastic,laythefishpiecesontopofthat,andpackonalltheremainingcuremixthatdidn’tstickonandaroundthesalmon.Placetheremainingpieceofsalmonskinonthetop,andwrapthewholefishtightlyintheplasticwrap.2.Placethesalmononatrayandputanothertrayontoptoweighthefishdown.

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Refrigerate.Turnthefishoveronceeachday,andleaveittocurefor5days.3.After5days,unwrapthesalmon,andwipethecuremixtureoffthepiecesofsalmon.Discardthecuremixturealongwiththeskin.

4.Forthesauce,inalargebowlwhisktheeggyolksuntilcreamy.Addtheremaining3tablespoonssugarandthemustard,anddrizzletheoilinslowlytomakeamayonnaise.Whiskintheremainingdill,andadjusttheseasoningwithsaltandpepper.Forasaucewithabitmorebite,addtheredwinevinegar.

5.Slicethesalmonwafer-thinontoaservingdish,garnishwithfreshdillandlemonwedges,andservethesaucealongside.

MAKES8TO10SERVINGS

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Page 181: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

MARINATEDPORTABELLAMUSHROOMS

In theUKwe call portabellas “flat”mushrooms. A standard vegetable orderfromtheroyalkitchenswouldincludesomanyboxesof“flats”andsomanyof“buttons.”Thiswas,ofcourse,beforeAntonioCarlucciointroducedusto“wildmushrooms.”

4largeportabellamushrooms

½cupoliveoil1tablespoonWorcestershiresauce

2tablespoonstarragonvinegar

2tablespoonsredwine(optional)

1teaspoonfinelychoppedgreenonions¼teaspoondriedthyme1clovegarlic,crushed¼teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Peeltheskinoffthemushroomstoallowthemarinadetoseepintotheflesh.Carefullyremovethecenterstemoutofthemushrooms.(Thispieceistoodenseandthegillswouldbelongcookedbeforethispiecewouldbetender.)Thencutthemushroomsintohalvesonthebiasforpresentationpurposes.Whisktogethertheoliveoil,Worcestershiresauce,vinegar,redwine,greenonions,thyme,garlic,salt,andpepper,andpourintoaziplockbag.Addthemushrooms,andmarinateatroomtemperatureforabout1hour,turningthebagoccasionally.

2.Placethemushroomsontoabakingsheetandcookinthecenteroftheovenuntiltender,15to20minutes.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

MAKES4SERVINGS

Page 182: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

STEAKDIANE

Thisclassic1970sdishisstillpopularwiththeroyalfamilyandisonetheDukeof Edinburgh loved to cook for family barbecues. We would prepare theingredients,flattenthesteaksinadvance,andsenditalltothebarbecuesiteinyellow Tupperware boxes. The contents of each Tupperware container werelabeled,atleastintheory.Occasionallyalabelwasmissingandbelieveme,weheardallaboutitfromtheDukethenextday.

4(4-ounce)beeftenderloinsteaksSaltandfreshlygroundpepper4tablespoonsoliveoil,divided1cupfinelychoppedonion1cupslicedbuttonmushrooms

1cupheavycream

½cubebeefbouillon1teaspoonWorcestershiresauce2tablespoonsbrandy

1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshchives

1.Flatteneachsteakwitharollingpintoabout½inchthick.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Add2tablespoonsoliveoiltoasautépanlargeenoughtoaccommodatethesteaksinonelayer.Heattheoiluntilhot,butnotsmoking.Cookthesteaksonhighheatforabout2minutesoneachside.Removefromtheskilletontoaplateandkeepwarm.

2.Addtheremaining2tablespoonsoliveoiltothepan,andaddtheonion,sautéinguntilitsoftens.Stirinthemushroomsandsautéuntilsoft.Stirinthecream,beefbouillon,Worcestershiresauce,andbrandy.Increasetheheattoreducetheliquidtotheconsistencyofheavycream.Removethesaucefromtheheat,andchecktheseasoningfortaste.Returnthesteakstothepanalongwiththejuices,andcoverwiththesaucefor1or2minutesjusttoreheatthesteaks.Servesprinkledwiththechoppedchivesforgarnish.

MAKES4SERVINGS

Page 183: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen
Page 184: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

POACHEDSALMONWITHDILLHOLLANDAISE

DillHollandaise1½sticks(¾cup)unsaltedbutter3eggyolks

1teaspoonwater1lemon,juiced

2teaspoonschoppedfreshdill

SaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperSalmon2quarts(8cups)coldwater12blackpeppercorns,crushed4carrots,peeledandthinlysliced3smallonions,peeledandthinlysliced2ribscelery,washedandthinlysliced1tablespoonsalt1tablespoonwhitewinevinegar4stemsfreshparsley

1bayleaf

1sprigfreshthymeor1pinchofdriedthyme1½poundsAtlanticsalmonfillet,skinnedandcutinto4pieces1.Forthedillhollandaise,meltthebutterinasmallpanoverlowheat.Itwillseparateintothreeparts.Onthebottomwillbethemilksolids,inthemiddletheclearclarifiedbutter,andonthetopthefoamymilksolids.Carefullyskimoffthetopfoamysolidsanddiscard.2.Setametalbowloverapanofsimmeringwater.Thebowlshouldnottouchthewater.Whisktheeggsandwatertogetherfor30seconds,oruntilwarmandslightlyfrothy.Removethebowlandslowlywhiskintheclarifiedbutter,butnotthemilksolidsatthebottom,toformathickemulsion.Afterthebutterhasbeenbeatenintotheeggs,graduallyaddthelemonjuice.Thenaddthedillandthesaltandpeppertotaste.Keepthesaucewarmuntilreadytouse.

3.Forthesalmon,placethepeppercorns,carrots,onions,andceleryalongwith

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thesalt,vinegar,parsley,bayleaf,andthymeintoa10-quartpot,andsimmerfor20minutes,oruntilaromatic.Straintheliquidanddiscardthecookedvegetables.Bringtheliquid(nowcalledacourtbouillon)toaboilinlargesautépan.Theliquidshouldbeseveralinchesdeep.Addthesalmonandthenreducetheheatsothatthebouillonbarelysimmers.Coverthepan,andgentlypoachthesalmonforabout6minutes.Removethesalmonwithaslottedspoon,andallowittocoolonawirerackorservingdish.

4.Salmoncanbeservedatroomtemperatureorchilled.AccompanywiththeDillHollandaise.

MAKES4SERVINGS

Page 186: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

GLENFIDDICHCHOCOLATEMOUSSE

Putanythingchocolateon themenuandHerMajestywouldusuallygive itanaffirmativecheckintheMenuBook.Thisdensemoussewasoneofherfavorites.Although theQueen is not a bigwhiskey drinker,Glenfiddich—“valley of thedeer” inGaelic—whiskey from the Scottish highlands adds awarmaftertaste.The coffee intensifies the flavor. You can substitute crème de menthe for thewhiskey.Ifyoudon’twant tousealcohol, thenfold finelychoppedcrystallizedgingerorevenafewchocolatechipsthroughthemix.

6ouncessemisweetchocolate1teaspooninstantcoffee

1tablespoonboilingwater

5eggs,separated

2tablespoonsGlenfiddichwhiskey

1¼cupsheavycream1cupheavycream,whippedforgarnish2ouncesgratedsemisweetchocolate,forgarnish1.Meltthe6ouncesofchocolateinadoubleboileror,alternatively,microwaveitonhighfor1minuteandstiruntilmelted.Inasmallbowldissolvethecoffeeintotheboilingwater.2.Whisktheeggyolksintothemeltedchocolateandthenstirinthedissolvedcoffeeandthewhiskeyandmixwell.

3.Whipthecreamuntilitformsandholdsstiffpeaks.Whiptheeggwhitesuntiltheyformandholdstiffpeaks.Foldthewhippedcreamandwhippedeggwhitesintothechocolatemixture.Keepfoldinguntilyoucannolongerseeanywhitespecksofcreamoreggwhite.

4.Pourthemousseintoadecorativeservingdish,andrefrigerateforatleast3hourstoallowthechocolatetoset.Decoratethetopofthemoussewithrosettesofwhippedcreamandgratedchocolate.

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MAKES6SERVINGS

Page 188: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

SCOTTISHTHISTLESHORTBREAD

Thisrecipehasliterallybeenusedforcenturies.AtBalmoralwemadeiteveryday,anditwasaperfectteacake.ItwasafavoriteoftheQueen’sniece,LadySarah,whowouldtucksixwholeshortbreadsintoherluggageattheendofeachvisit. Dusted with vanilla sugar, it crumbles into eight portions and can beserved as a tea cake, alone or with homemade ice cream. If you don’t havetraditionalbeechwoodshortbreadmoldsyoucanbakethisinceramicmoldsorrollthedoughintoalogandcut½-inchcookies.

1½cupsall-purposeflour¾cupcornstarch1cuppowderedsugar

2sticksunsaltedbutter

¼cupvanillasugar(seepage76)1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Placeasheetofparchmentpaperonabakingsheet.Sifttheflour,cornstarch,andpowderedsugarintoalargebowl.Cutthebutterintosmallpiecesandrubthemintotheflourmixtureuntilitformsintoaball.Lightlydustashortbreadmoldwithflourandpressthedoughintothemold.Trimoffanyexcess.Ifusingabeechwoodmold,moldtheshortbreadandthentipitoutontotheparchmentpaper,andprickthetopoftheshortbreadalloverwithaforkbeforebaking.Ifusingaceramicmold,baketheshortbreaddirectlyinthemold.

2.Bakeinthepreheatedovenfor20minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandmarktheshortbreadintowedgeswithaknife,cuttingaboutone-thirdofthewaythrough.Sprinklewiththevanillasugar,andplaceonacoolingracktocoolcompletely.

MAKES8TO10SERVINGS

Page 189: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen
Page 190: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

SUMMERPUDDING

ByAugust,theBalmoralgardensareburstingwithlateseasonfruitandberries,especiallystrawberries.AllthisbountymeantthatSummerPuddingwouldbeonthemenuatleastonceaweek.Theroyalfamilylovedtotakethisoutonpicnicsandwouldspoonitrightoutofthedish.

2poundsmixedberries—cherries,strawberries,raspberries,redcurrants,blackcurrants,blackberries,blueberries½cupwater

1teaspoonvanillapaste

1½cupssugar8slicesdensewhitebread,severaldaysoldSprigsoffreshmint,forgarnishClottedcream

1.Preparethefruitbystoningandhalvingthecherries,removingstemsfromtheredandblackcurrants,andhullingandquarteringthestrawberries.Keepeachtypeoffruitseparateatthisstage.

2.Inalargeheavy-bottomedpanaddthecherries,water,vanillapaste,andsugaroveralowheat,andstiruntilthesugardissolves.Letthecherriessimmeruntiltheystarttosoften.Addthestrawberriesandblackberriesandstir;simmer2to3minutes,andthenaddtheblueberries,redcurrants,blackcurrants,andfinallytheraspberries.Removefromtheheat,andcarefullystrainthefruitintoacolander,reservingthepoachingsyrupinaseparatebowl.

3.Cutthecrustsoffthebread,andcutacirclefrom1sliceofthebreadtofitthebottomofthepuddingbasin.Dipthebreadintothepoachingsyrupandplaceitintoa1-quartpuddingbasinorsoufflédish.Cutallbut2oftheremaining7breadslicesinhalf,dipthemintothesyrup,andlinethesidesofthebasin,overlappingeachpieceslightly.

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4.Oncethebasiniscompletelylined,spoonthefruitintothecenterandfillthebasintothetop.Placethe2remainingpiecesofbreadontopofthefruit.Placeasaucerthatfitssnuglyinsidethebasinontopofthebread.Weighdownthetopofthepuddingbyplacingsomethinglikealargecanoftomatoesontopofthesaucer.Refrigerate6to8hoursorovernightalongwithanyremainingpoachingsyrup.

5.Runaspatulaaroundtheedgesofthepudding,andinvertitontoaservingplate.Pourtheremainingsyrupoverthetop,andallowthesyruptorundownthesides.Garnishwithsprigsofmintandservewiththeclottedcream.

MAKES6SERVINGS

SummerPudding

Page 192: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen
Page 193: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

CRATHIECRUNCH

NamedafterthevillagenexttoBalmoralCastle,thischeesecakewaspopulartosend out on shooting lunches. It is a crunchy layer of chocolate cookies andunsaltedbuttertoppedwithacheesecakebatterflavoredwithcrèmedementhe.As a baroque final touch,wewould top it withwhipped cream and crumbledchocolatemintcandy.Nestle’speppermintchocolateAeroBarismyfirstchoicesinceithastherightlightnessandcrunch.Ifyoucan’tfindthat,agooddustingofgratedchocolateisamore-than-acceptablesubstitute.

½pound(8ounces)McVitieschocolatedigestivesor1cupgroundgrahamcrackercrumbsmixedwith½cupgratedbittersweetchocolate6tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted4eggs,separated2tablespoonscrèmedementheliqueur⅔cupgranulatedsugar2packetsunflavoredgelatin

1tablespoonwater

1½cupsheavycream1peppermintchocolateAeroBaror⅓cupgratedchocolate1.Grindthecookiesinafoodprocessoruntilfinecrumbsform.Placeinalargebowlandstirinthemeltedbutter.Firmlypackthemixtureintothebottomofa9-inchtartpanandrefrigerateforatleast15minutes.

2.Placetheeggyolks,crèmedementhe,andsugarintoalargemixingbowloverapanofboilingwater,andwhiskforabout2minutes.Removethebowlfromtheheat,andcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixtureiscold.

3.Softenthegelatininthe1tablespoonwaterinasmallpan,andplaceoverlowheattowarmanddissolvethegelatin.Whiskthegelatinintotheeggmixture.

4.Whiptheeggwhitesuntilstiff,andfoldintotheeggmixture.Spoonthisontothetartcrust,andrefrigerateforatleast2hours.

5.Whiptheheavycreaminalargebowluntilstiff,andspreadontothetopofthenow-seteggmix.Chopthemintchocolatebar,anddecoratewithitorthe

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gratedchocolate.

MAKES8SERVINGS

CrathieCrunch

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Page 196: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

BREADANDBUTTERPUDDING

ThispuddingwasPrincessDiana’sall-timefavorite,somuchsothatsheoncehad a royal reporter write that “Darren makes the best bread and butterpuddingintheworld.”Well,Iamnotsureitisthebestintheworld—butit’supthere!Thefinaltextureisacrossbetweenabreadpuddingandacrèmebrûlée.

3ouncesraisins

¼cupAmaretto12sliceswhitebread,crustsremoved1½sticksunsaltedbutter,melted9eggyolks

2teaspoonsvanillapaste

¾cupsugar½cupmilk

2cupsheavycream2tablespoonsgranulatedsugar,todusttopofpudding3ouncesslicedalmonds,lightlytoasted

2tablespoonspowderedsugar

1.SoaktheraisinsintheAmaretto,andleavecoveredwithplasticwrapatroomtemperature6to8hoursorovernight.

2.Preheattheovento350degrees.Cut4slicesofthebreadinto½-inchdice,andspreadthedicedbreadonthebottomofacasseroledish.Sprinkletheraisinsontopofthebreadcubes,andpouranyremainingliquidoverthe

Page 197: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

bread.Cuttheremaining8slicesofbreadinhalfdiagonally,andthencuteachhalfsliceinhalfdiagonallytocreate4eventrianglesperslice.Dipthetrianglesintothebutter,andarrangeonthetopoftheraisins,overlappingthetrianglesslightly.Pouranyremainingbutteroverthetopofthebread.

3.Whisktheyolks,vanillapaste,andsugarinalargebowluntilcombined.Bringthemilkandcreamtoaboilinaheavysaucepanoverhighheat,andpourthehotmixontotheeggyolks,whiskingconstantly.Pourthewarmeggmixtureoverthebread,makingsureallofthebreadiscoated,andsetasidethecoatedbreadfor20minutestoallowtheeggmixturetosoakintothebread.

4.Placethecasseroledishinaroastingtrayfilledwithhotwaterhalfwayupthesidesofthecasseroledish,andbakeonthemiddlerackintheovenfor30to45minutes,oruntilgoldenbrownontopwiththefillingjustset.

5.Removethedishfromtheovenandroastingtray,andsprinklewiththeextrasugar.Broiloruseacrèmebrûléetorchtocaramelizethesugar.Sprinklewiththetoastedslicedalmonds,anddustwithpowderedsugar.Coolslightly,andservewarmwithajugofcreamandsomefreshberries.

MAKES6TO8SERVINGS.

BreadandButterPudding

Page 198: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

GREEKYOGURTANDSTRAWBERRYCHEESECAKE

This cheesecake works well with other fruit besides strawberries. I wouldsometimesuseblueberriesasatopping.Arrangethemneatlyincirclescoveringthetopofthecheesecakeanddrizzlewithhoneybeforeserving.

Crust6tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted1½cupsgrahamcrackercrumbs

1cupfinelychoppedpecans¼cuplightbrownsugar1lemon,zestonly

Cheesecake

1cupcottagecheese

1(7-ounce)containerthickGreekyogurt½cupsugar

1teaspoonvanillapaste

2cupsheavycream,whippeduntilstiff

1packetunflavoredgelatin3tablespoonslemonjuice,about1lemon4cupsstrawberries,sliced½cupvanillasugar(seepage76)1.Forthecrust,linea13×9-inchbakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Preparethecrustbymixingthebutter,grahamcrumbs,pecans,

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brownsugar,andlemonzesttogetherinalargebowl.Spreadevenlyontothelinedbakingsheetandpressdownfirmly.Refrigerateforatleast1hour.2.Forthecheesecake,blendthecheeseinaprocessoruntilsmooth.Addtheyogurt,sugar,andvanilla,andblendagain.Transferthemixtoalargebowl,andfoldinthewhippedcream.

3.Dissolvethegelatinwiththelemonjuiceinasmallpan,andheatuntilthegelatinsoftens.Pourthegelatinintothecheesemix,andstirinquicklytoavoidanylumps.Spreadthecheesecakemixoverthecrumbbaseandrefrigerateforabout2hours.

4.Mixthestrawberrieswiththevanillasugarandleavetoinfuseforabout30minutes.Arrangeneatlyontopofthecheesecake.

MAKES8SERVINGS

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PEACHPRINCESS

ThisdishwasagreatwayofusinguptheWindsorpeachesthatweretoobruisedfor the dessert dishes. We also made it using pears instead of peaches. AtBalmoralwehadtodoubletherecipeandpouronehalfintoasilverjetandtheotherhalfintoayellowplasticTupperwarecontainer—justincasetherewasaBBQandtheywantedtotakethedishwiththem.Notethatyou’llmakedoubletheamountofJell-Oyouneed.That’sallright,thekidswilllovethetreat!

1packetunflavoredgelatin

1¼cupswholemilk,divided2eggs,separated⅓cupsugar

1teaspoonvanillapaste

1(3-ouncebox)lemonJell-O2cupswater,divided¾cupheavycream3ripepeaches,skinnedandhalvedExtrawhippedcream1.Inalargebowldissolvethegelatinin¼cupmilk.Whisktheeggyolks,sugar,andvanillapasteinalargebowluntilcombined.Bringtheremaining1cupmilktoaboilinaheavy-bottomedsaucepan.Removefromtheheat,andslowlypourthemilkintotheeggyolkmixture,whiskingconstantly.Pourthemixturebackintothesaucepan,stirringoverlowheatuntilitstartstothickenandcoatthebackofthespoon.Removefromtheheat,pourtheeggmixtureoverthedissolvedgelatin,andwhiskuntilcombined.Strainthegelatinmixthroughafinestrainerintoalargebowl,andrefrigerateuntilcoldandjuststartingtoset,about1hour.Thiswillbecomeacustard.Becarefulnottoletthemixchillfortoolong,oritwillsetfirm.2.EmptytheboxoflemonJell-Ointoabowl.Bring1cupwatertoaboil,andpouritoverthelemonJell-O,stirringtodissolve.Add1cupcoldwater,andrefrigerateuntiltheJell-Ostartstoset,about1hour.

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3.Whipthecreamuntilstiffpeaksform.Inaseparatebowl,whiptheeggwhitesuntilstiff,andcarefullyfoldthemintothecustardmixalongwiththewhippedcream.Spoonintoasoufflédish,andrefrigeratethemousseuntilfirm.

4.Cuteachpeachinhalfandremovethepits.Layeachhalfcut-sidedownontopofthemousseuniformly.SpoonhalfofthelemonJell-Omixoverthepeachesandmoussesothatthelayerisabout¼inchdeep.Refrigerateuntilset.Garnishwithwhippedcream.

MAKES6SERVINGS

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VEILEDFARMER’SDAUGHTER

Thisstrangelynameddishwaspublishedinanationalnewspaperandsoundedgood.Iwasalwayson the lookout fornewrecipes thatcontainedstrawberriesbecausetheroyalfamilyatethemsooftenwheninseason.ItweakedtherecipeandlisteditintheMenuBook,forgettingtoputtherecipeinalongsideforHerMajesty to peruse. I shouldn’t have been surprised when I received the notebelowintheMenuBookwhenitreturnedtothekitchen.

6sliceswholewheatbread,crustsremoved2teaspoonsgroundcinnamon6tablespoonsDemerarasugar

2cupsheavycream

4tablespoonsvanillasugar(seepage76),divided2poundsripestrawberries,raspberries,oracombinationofboth1orange,zestandjuice2tablespoonsCuraçao

1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Pulsethebreadinafoodprocessoruntilfinecrumbsform,andmixwiththecinnamonandDemerarasugar.Spreadontoabakingsheetandbakeforabout10minutes,oruntilthebreadbecomescrispandgolden.Removefromtheoven,andstirthecrumbs,leavingthemonthebakingsheetuntilcool.

2.Whiptheheavycreamwith2tablespoonsvanillasugar.Hullandhalvethestrawberriesintoabowl,andtosswiththeremaining2tablespoonsvanillasugarandtheorangezestandjuice.DrizzlewiththeCuraçao.

3.Inalargeglassservingbowl,placealayerofthefruitfollowedbyalayerofthewhippedcreamandsprinkleonsomeofthesugaredcrumbs.Repeattheprocessandbuildthelayers,finishingwiththecreamandaheavysprinklingofthecrumbs.

MAKES6SERVINGS

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QUEENOFPUDDINGS

ThispuddingoriginatedatBuckinghamPalace in the seventeenthcenturyandwas created for Queen Victoria by the palace chefs. The version below isupdated from the original and is one I used at Buckingham Palace andKensingtonPalaceforPrincesWilliamandHarry.PrincessDiana,notahugedesserteater,wouldoccasionallysuccumbtoatasteaswell.

1smallSaraLeepoundcake,cutinto½-inchslices

4eggs

1½cupsgranulatedsugar,divided1teaspoonvanillapaste

2cupswholemilk

1(12-ounce)jarstrawberryjelly4eggwhites,atroomtemperature¼cupslicedalmonds1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Coverthebottomofan8-inchcasseroledishwiththepoundcakeslices.Inalargebowl,beattogetherthewholeeggs,½cupsugar,andthevanillapasteuntillightandlemoncolored.Bringthemilktoaboilinasmallsaucepan,removeitfromtheheat,andslowlywhiskthehotmilkintotheeggsandsugarmixture.Gentlypourthemixtureintothecasseroledish,makingsureyousoakallofthepoundcakeasitrisestothetop.Putthecasseroledishintheovenandbakefor30minutes,oruntilitisfirmlyset.Removethedishfromtheovenandallowittocoolslightly.

2.Inasmallsaucepan,warmthestrawberryjellyandpouritoverthetopofthewarmpudding.

3.Makeameringuebywhiskingtheeggwhitesuntilstiff,addingtheremaining1cupsugargradually.Thestandingmixerwithaballoonwhiskattachmentdoesagreatjobhere.Afterthesugarhasbeenfullyincorporatedintothewhites,andthewhitesarestiffandglossy,spoonthemeringuemixtureintoa

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pipingbagwithastartipandpipearoundtheedgesofthecasseroleontopofthejelly.Thenmakeatrellisacrossthemiddleofthedishtoleavesomeoftheredjellyshowingbetweenthemeringue.Sprinklethealmondsontopofthemeringue.

4.Returnthecasseroledishtotheovenforabout10minutesuntilthemeringueandalmondsstarttobrown.Servehotwithwhippedcreamoricecream.

MAKES6SERVINGS

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BALMORALSTRAWBERRYJAM

Balmoral was the only place we made jams and jellies, and we would haveenoughfruitfromtheBalmoralgardenstomakeenoughtolastayear.JamwasusuallymadeonaSundaymorning.Itwastheonedayeachweekwecouldbecertain that lunch would be in the house, not outdoors. No one ever shot orhunted on the Sabbath. Nothing worse than having to put together a plumpuddingforashootinglunchjustasyourjamhits220degrees.

Thishomemadejamtechniqueisdifferentfrommost,sincethereisnofinalhotwaterbath to seal the jar.Theheat from thehot jamseals the jarandnofurtherprocessingisrequired.

4cupsstrawberries,hulled(notoverripeandnotwashed)1¾cupsgranulatedsugar3tablespoonslemonjuice

1tablespoonvanillapaste

1.Sterilizea12-ouncejellyjar,screw-ontop,andlidinboilingwater.Removefromthewaterandturnthelidupsidedown,allowingittodry.Keepthejarwarmsothatitdoesn’tcrackwhenyoupourinthehotjam.

2.Cutthestrawberriesinhalfandaddthemtoan8-quartsaucepanwiththesugar,lemonjuice,andvanillapaste.Placethepanoverahighheat,andstirthestrawberriesuntilthesugarstartstodissolve.Bringthejammixturetoarollingboiluntilthetemperaturereaches220°Fonacandythermometer.

3.Removethepanfromtheheat,stir,andletcoolfor10minutes.Pourthejamintothewarmjar,placethelidontop,andtightenthescrewband.Turnthejarupsidedownforabout30minutesandthenrightsideupuntilitcoolscompletely.Thiswillstopalloftheberriesfromsinkingtothebottomofthejar.Oncethejariscold,testthelidbypressingthetop.Ifitspringsback,itneedstoberefrigeratedandusedwithinaweek.Iftheliddoesn’tspringback,thenthejamwillkeepforuptooneyear.

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Remember,don’tputyourlabelsonuntilthejamiscooled.Otherwisethegluebackingwillmeltrightoff.

MAKESONE12-OUNCEJAR

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CHAPTERSIX

SandringhamHouse

ARoyalChristmas

SandringhamHouse,wheretheWindsorscelebrateChristmasandNewYear,isoneofthemostbeautifulhomesinEngland.Thehouseisamixofstyles,mostlyVictorian,andsitsonsixtyacresofstunninggardenswithconsiderableacreageset aside for a wonderful apple orchard. On the property there is a convertedstablethathousesamuseumofroyalvehiclesandmemorabiliaandtwosmallerhomes,WoodFarmandParkHouse.

Inside the house are royal collections of porcelain, jade, furniture, andpriceless family portraits. In many ways, Sandringham epitomizes EnglishcountrylivingandisaperfectplacefortheWindsorfamilytobetogetherfortheholidays.

SandringhamHousewasmy favorite royal residence.Thehouse is elegantandthegrounds,situatedonflatNorfolkland,providebeautifulviewswhereveryou cast your gaze. The kitchen was like the rest of the house—warm,welcoming,easytospendtimein.

TheQueenhadalwaysusedSandringhamforherNewYear’scelebrations.Butafter thefireatWindsor,herstayatSandringhamwasextendedtoincludeChristmas. So now the Windsors stay at Sandringham from December 23through the end of January. At Christmas the house is decorated with hollyleavesandberriesandatwenty-footNorfolkpinehasbeenchoppeddownontheestateandsitsinsidetheWhiteDrawingRoom,glitteringwithdecorations.Thefireplacesareblazingwithlogfiresandeventhoughitmaybecoldandsnowyoutside,everyonefeelswarmandpamperedinside.

The chefs and other staff arrive at Sandringham around December 20 toready the house. As chefs we know that we’ll be feeding one hundred fortypeoplefourmealsaday,soweimmediatelyprepourmeatandfish,checkonthevegetableorders, andmake several dozenmincepies to freeze andbake later.Besidespies, I’dalsomake severalganache-coveredYule logs for thenursery

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andtheroyaldiningroom.OneyearIdecoratedthenurseryYulelogwithafatmarzipan Father Christmas squashing Rudolph. There was a more sedate logwithasprayofmarzipanpoinsettiasforthegrown-ups.

Most of the royal family doesn’t arrive until Christmas Eve. Their RangeRoversdrive to the largefrontentrance,depositing the family into thehouse’smainsittingroomcalledtheSaloon.Thenthechauffeursswingtothesideofthehouse and the real unloading begins. It’s backstairs bedlam. Personal valets,assistedbytheQueen’stravelingyeoman,aredirectingluggageuptotherooms.Christmasgiftsare transferred fromeachcar to thewhite linen-covered trestletables in the White Drawing Room, which have name cards and ribbonsindicatingwhereeachperson’spresentsshouldbeplaced.Therearehampersoffoodmakingtheirwayintothekitchen,eitherbroughtpersonallybytheroyals,orreceivedasgiftsandshared.

I remember each year the Sultan ofBruneiwould send over an enormousFortnum&Masonhamper, filledwithsugareddriedfruits,hams,cheeses,andbiscuitsfortheQueen,andperhapsalsoforPrinceCharlesandPrinceAndrew.Besidesthat,friendsknowthattheWindsorsarealwayshappytoreceivegiftsoffood and drink, so there are plenty of special liqueurs, pâtés, smoked turkeys,andrarecheesesthatmaketheirwaytothekitchen.HarrodsalwayssentoveranenormoushamperthatfaithfullycontainedapâtédefoiegrasenCroûte.Therearesweetsandlotsofcandy.Oneteatimetreatthatthewholefamilyadoresarecookies called “Chocolate Olivers.” They are round, dark-chocolate-dippedcookiesthatcomeinalongtelescope-likebox.

NotYourTypicalFruitcake

Among the foodwe transported toSandringhameachChristmaswere sixroyalChristmascakes.TheroyalfamilywouldhaveoneforChristmasandoneforNewYear’s,ditto thenurseryand thestaff.“Christmascake” isaeuphemismforthatoftenmalignedgiftcalled“fruitcake.”Nowbeforeyougroanand turn thepage, I have to tell you that these arevery, verygoodcakes.

They are started inOctober, just after theBalmoral summer holidays.Butterandsugararecreamedtogetherbeforeaddingflour,eggs,molasses,groundalmonds,andmarinateddriedfruitthathavebeensoakedinbrandy

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fromthenightbefore.Thefruitisacombinationoforangeandlemonzestsandjuices,raisins,currants,sultanas,glacéedcherries,andcitronpeel.

Thecakesarebakedslowlyforeighthoursinalowoven,thenprickedall over and soakedwith brandy and sugar syrup.Wrapped in parchmentandplastic,thecakesarestoredinacoolplaceand“fed”morebrandyandsugar syrupevery fewweeks.Their finaldecoration is fondant icingwithadditionalflouncesandfrills.Theflavorofthefruit,havingbeenbaptizedinbrandy,isrichandmellow.NowIpromisethatagiftofthatcakewithatinofgoodteawillbegreetedwithgratitude,notgroans.

CakesdecoratedwithSantaandhissleighforthenurseryandSantaclimbingoutofthechimneyfortheroyaltable.Allinmarzipan,ofcourse.OnecakehasSonictheHedgehogonit,madethesameyearWilliamand

HarrygotaPlayStationforChristmas.AChristmascakeshowsSandringhamhouseinthesnow,decoratedbyRobertPine,thepastrychef.

SneakAttack

William and Harry would get all sorts of athletic equipment, games,Nintendosandelectronictoys,books,andcraftsforChristmas.ButI’llnotforgettheyeartheyeachreceivedverylargewaterguns.Well, thosegunswereabighit.Andthetargetswereusuallythechefs!AllChristmasweek,wewithstoodsuddenattacksfromtheboys.IwouldbepreparinglunchinthekitchenandsuddenlyIwassoakedwithwater.Andtheykeptdoingit.“That’sit!”Iwouldyellattheboys.“Youaregoingtogetitnow!”Buttheboyswouldlaughandrunaway,carefullyplottingouttheirnextattack.

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Mychefmate,Arthur Smith, and I decided to fight back.Weheadedinto townand founda fantastic local toyshop that soldwaterguns,blackplasticreplicasofIsraeliUzis.Thesewillbegreat,wethought.Finallyabitofcomeuppanceforthosetwo.WereturnedtoSandringhamjustastwilightwasdeepeningandathicksnowhadbeguntofall.Afteraquickchangeintoour chefwhitesweheadedacross theparking lot toward thekitchenwithourwatergunsbyoursides.

Three feet across the yard, I heard a click and a deep voice yell,“Freeze! Armed police!” We both froze. Out of nowhere an officerappeared. As he got closer he recognized us. Fortunately for us he wasLondonpolice,notlocal.

“Whathaveyougotthere?”heasked.BeforeIcouldsayanything,Arthurpipedup,“Ohthese?Thesearefor

WilliamandHarry.Wearegoingtoshootthemastheycomeoutoftea.”Mymouthdroppedopen.Thatdidn’t sound right! Iquicklyexplained

that they were just water guns. The officer listened to my stammeringwithout cracking a smile. “Best take them back to your rooms, lads,” hesaid.“Rightnow.”

Damn.ArthurandInevergottofireonegoodshot.Notevenone.

OnChristmasEve, theadultsgather in theSaloon toenjoy teawithcakes,scones, and sandwiches on the sideboard. The childrenwould have tea in thenursery,but I think thenanniesalwayshad troublegetting themtocalmdownandeatsomething.WilliamandHarry,alongwiththeircousins,knewthatafterteawasover they could start opening their presents! In fact, thewhole familyopens their presents on Christmas Eve, a break from the English tradition ofChristmasmorning.

Whilelavishgiftgivingiswhatweallwouldassociatewithroyallife,mostof the presents the Windsors give each other are surprisingly modest. Iremember hearing amaid say thatHerMajesty had been thrilled to receive acoveredcasseroledish.Icouldn’tbelieveit.ButtheonewealljokedaboutwastheannualtoiletseatthatPrinceCharleswouldreceiveasagift—heapparentlycollects them!Suchmodest gift givingwas limited to the adults; theWindsorchildrenreceivedtoysandtreatsgalore.Afterall,itwasChristmas,afinetimetospoilthemsilly.

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AGiftfromaQueen

AllroyalemployeesgetapresenteachyearfromHerMajesty,handedoverpersonally. Because there were so many staff, there was a catalog sentroundearlier in theyearby theQueen’schiefhousekeeperandyoucouldpickoutexactlywhatyouwanted,withinacertainpricelimit,ofcourse.Soyour annual gift from the Queen wasn’t much of a surprise. Some chefswouldcollectsilverorknivesandbuildupcollectionsovertheyears.Thentherewereothermischievous chefswhowould ask for themost ungainlygifts,likeladdersorlargestockpots,andgrineartoearastheywatchedtheQueenstruggletohandittothem.

I understand that nowHerMajesty gives everyone the same thing: aHalcyonDaysenamelbox.

Eachyearthestaffwerepresentedwitha(store-bought)ChristmaspuddingandnotecardfromtheQueen.

FeedingtheCooks

Itwasn’tuncommontoseeafleetofcarsheadingoutofSandringhamafter

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nine at night.With dinner finished we chefs would shower, change, andheadoutforsomelocalgourmetfood.AfewmilesuptheroadandalongthecoastwastheLifeboatInn.Builtfourhundredyearsagoasasmugglers’alehouse, it served the finest moules mariniere I have ever tasted. ThemusselscamelocallyfromBrancasterandmadetheirshort jumpfromtheseatothefryingpan.Theywereservedinabowlthesizeofasatellitedish.With a loaf of crusty bread for mopping the juices and a pint of localAbbotsale,fivechefsandakitchenporterwereinheaven.

CHRISTMASDAYTheWindsors,likeallfamilies,havetheirownChristmastraditionsthatthey

lookforward toyearafteryear.OnChristmasDay, theyawake tostockingsatthefootof theirbeds,stuffedwithsmallgiftsandfruit,and tobreakfastbeingreadiedforthemdownstairs.Breakfastisn’ttooleisurelysincethefamilyattendsmorning services together at St. Mary Magdelenes, located right onSandringham Estate. There is usually a crowd of well-wishers and mediagatheredoutsidethechurchtoseetheQueen.

Santaonthesideboard

Bythetimechurchisoverandeveryonehasreturnedtothehouse,Christmaslunch is justabout ready.This is thebigfestivemealof theday. In thediningroom, twoChristmas treeswithcolored lights flickerawayas the royal familypullsChristmascrackers, reads jokes,anddonspapercrowns.Even theQueenwearsherpaper crown!A largecardboardSantaClausdecorated in red tissuepaperisceremoniallyperchedonthesideboard,itsinsidesstuffedwithgifts.ThefamilydrawslotstoseewhogetstopullthefirstprizefromSanta’sbelly.

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Traditionally the centerpiece of the meal is comprised of large goldenroastedturkeyswithallthetrimmings.TheseNorfolkbirdscomefromthelocalbutcher, Scoles in Dersingham, along with all the beef, lamb, and pork weserved the royal family.The turkeys are servedwhole and carved right in thediningroombytheheadchef.Wewouldroastaboutthreetwenty-five-poundersonChristmasmorningjustfortheroyaltable.MoreturkeysweremadefortheonehundredstaffmembersweservedChristmaslunch.Thesmelloftheroastingbirdswouldfillthewholekitchenanddriveuschefscrazy.

To go along with the turkey, there would be sausages wrapped in bacon,brusselssproutswithbraisedchestnuts,glazedcarrots,roastedpotatoes,mashedpotatoes,cranberrysauce,anddon’tforgetthegravy.Alargeglassbowlofsaladwasamust,andsometimeswewereluckyenoughtoservesamphire.Samphire,whichisalsocalledsaltwortorsalicornia,growsinmuddysaltmarshesbythesea. Picked young and tender, it is pickled to preserve it. It looks a bit likeseaweed,butismorelikeasalty,thinasparagus.Youcaneatitanytimeofyear,butIalwaysassociateitwithChristmasatSandringham.

Christmaslunch,Sandringhamdiningroom

BreadsauceisalsoatraditionalsidedishandisasmuchapartofanEnglishChristmas dinner as stuffing is a part of an American Thanksgiving. Likestuffing,breadsaucewascreatedasacleverwaytouseupstalebread,butitisquite different in a number ofways. First, it’smadewith heatedmilk steepedwith onion, cloves, salt, pepper, and bay leaf. Butter and bread crumbs arebeatenintomakeathickbutstillsaucyconsistency.Breadsaucecan’tbemadeveryfarinadvanceandisreallybestservedassoonasit’scooked.Youspoonitrightnexttoyourslicedturkey.

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After themain course, therewould be dessert, then cheese.DessertwouldincludetwoChristmaspuddings,brandysauce,perhapssomewarmedmincepieand brandy butter. The cheese board would usually include soft homemadeWindsor cheese and aDerby cheese,which is an agedGloucestershire cheesemade with the addition of sage. There would also be a rich doubleGloucestershire cheese and a Royal Windsor. A Royal Windsor looks like alargecapitalE,athree-layeredcheesewhosemiddle,top,andbottomlayersarecomposedofaport-fortifiedcheddar,withStiltonfillinginthespacesbetween.We would also set out a huge aged Stilton, which was sent every year fromHarrods. Itwas placed on a large silver traywith awhite linen napkin foldedaroundthecrust.Thetoplidwasremovedandportwinepouredoverthetopofthe cheese.Lovely.Therewas coffee for anyonewhowanted, aHiggins darkroast,andchocolateandcandiespiledhighonthesideboard.

Afterameal likethat it’s timeforthefamilytogatherroundintheSaloonand,liketherestofGreatBritain,watchtheQueen’sbriefChristmasbroadcast.AfterwardHerMajestywouldusuallytakethedogsoutforawalkandtherestof thefamilywouldeither takeagoodhikeinthesnowortakeanap.Byfiveo’clockifanyonewashungry—andtherewerealwaysafew—teawasservedona sideboard laden with chocolate Yule logs, Christmas cake, brandy snaps,mincepies,andsandwiches.

Christmaseveningtherewasalwaysapartyswinginginthestaffrechall.Assecretary of the Royal Household Social Club (my very official title!), I wasusuallyspinningrecordsorworkingthebar.Allthestaffcameouttodanceandhaveafewdrinks.Afterourhardwork,itwasourturntoparty.Andsomeofusdidthatwithavengeance.ThereisnothinglikehavingaheavyheadwhenyouhavetogetupearlythenextmorningforBoxingDay.

ChristmasPudding

Thanks to Dickens, plum pudding, also called Christmas pudding, issynonymouswithanEnglishYule.I’vealwaysbelievedthatcertainsweetsanddesserts,unlikesavoryrecipes,remainfixedinthecollectivememory,perennial favorites for centuries.Steamedpuddingsareaclassofold,oldEnglishrecipesthatmodernBritainhasneverabandoned.

DuringFebruaryorMarcheachyearwewould sterilize the enormous

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kitchensinkandfillitwithdriedfruitandraisinsthathadbeenmaceratedinalcohol. Thenwewould add a bit of flour, sugar, and various spices andpeels.Thepuddingswerepackedintomason-warebasins,steamed,cooled,and refrigerated. This “kitchen sink” method would yield about fortypuddings.WhenIwasreadytoserveit,Iwouldresteamthepuddingoveralowheat. Itwouldbe turnedoutontoa silver trayand thenwarmbrandywaspouredover thepuddingandsetaflame.Thealcoholburnsoffas thepudding is marched into the royal dining room. Yes, it’s a little bit ofspectacle,butnot just a royalone. It’s traditionallyEnglish, commonandgood.

LeftoversforDinner

Leftovers?ForHerMajesty?No,notreally.Royaltraditionsdon’tincludeleftoverturkeysandwiches.Notyet,atleast!

ButChristmasdinnerwasservedinamorerelaxedbuffetstyle—notasit-downdinner—andthefamilywasfreetotasteawidevarietyoffoods,some very traditional and others moremodern. On the classic royal sidewould be stuffed boars head, boiled beef tongue, smoked turkey, Parmaham, and pâté de foie gras enCroûte.These stood alongside spinach andcream cheese roulades and salmon and vegetable terrines. Minted lambcutletsandwholesidesofpoachedanddecoratedsalmonwerepopulartoo.

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BOXINGDAYBoxingDay,thedayafterChristmas,isauniquelyEnglishholiday.ThereareanumberoftheoriesastowhyitiscalledBoxingDay,someinvolvingpugilism!Actually, BoxingDay is also known as St. Stephen’s Day and its origins arefound in the practice of giving either cash or boxing up gifts for the poor.Traditionally,giftsamongequalswereexchangedonorbeforeChristmasDay,butgiftsforthepoorwerebestowedthedayafter.

ChristmasyulelogsandahappybirthdaycakeforPrincessAlice,DuchessofGloucester,theQueen’saunt.HerbirthdaywasChristmasDay.

TodayBoxingDayiscelebratedasadayofsport.Soccermatchesandhorse

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racing are extremely popular ways to spend the day. For the royal family,BoxingDay isalwaysspent shooting.Norfolk’s farm landscape ishome toallsorts of birds. Partridge, quail, woodcock, wild duck, and pheasant find theirwayintotheroyalcrosshairsandendupontheroyaldinnertable.Themenstartshootingaroundnineinthemorning,andtheladiesjointhemforlunch.Sinceitis the middle of winter, the cold weather drives everyone indoors and lunchmightbe set up inoneof the stables atWoodFarm.Food ispacked inAscotboxes,transported,andsetuponsite.

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NotethankingmeonbehalfoftheQueenMumforsendingherflowersfromtheroyalhouseholdsocialclub.

Shootinglunchesalwayslookedbothrusticandluxurious,atrueglimpseofthepast.Herewewereinthisunheatedantiquebarnservinglunchonbeautifulsilver trays ladenwith steaming hot food.The shooters have come inside, redcheeked,andarewarmingupwithshotsofsloeginbeingpassedaround.

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WhattoWear

In hermemoirs, Sarah,Duchess ofYork, detailed the changes of clothesrequiredonChristmasDay: tweedskirtandcardiganforbreakfast; stylishdress(andcoat,hat,andgloves)forchurch;silkdressforlunch;casualskirtand blouse for the afternoon; silk skirt and blouse for tea; and finally aformal gown for dinner.That is a lot of changingduring the day and theduchessclearlythoughtitwasawasteoftime.Itiseasierforhernow.TheduchessspendsChristmasatWoodFarmontheSandringhamestate,whereshecanseeherex-husbandanddaughtersandalsovisitwithsomemembersofthefamilyinamorerelaxedfashion.

Soupwasoftenservedtofendoffthecoldandtheremightbeaselectionofsmallsavorypieslikechickenandleekpie,chickencurry,ormuttonandlambpies. A warm stew would follow, perhaps a venison and red wine stew or ablanquettedeveau.Itvariedabitdependinguponwhatthekitchenhadonhand.Boulangèreormashedpotatoesandsautéedcabbagewouldbeservedalongside.Afterthat,andanothershotofgin,nobodyreallymindedthatthebarnwascold.Theywereplentywarm.

Fordessert,wewouldusuallyserveabitoffriedplumpuddingwithbrandybutter, treacle tarts, or mince pies. Treacle is the English word for molasses.Thoughtoconfusethingsevenmore,wedon’tusetreacleintreacletart;weusegoldensyrup.Goldensyrupisreducedsugarcanesyrupthecolorofhoney.

I’d always heard that Sandringhamwas at its prettiest in July, around thetimeoftheSandringhamflowershow.Ineversawtheestatethen,butIcantellyou that inwinter the landscapewas breathtaking, especiallywhen it snowed.After a snowstorm the frontof thehouse looked likea scene fromapostcard.Lunchinthebarnmayhavewarmedtheroyalsupabit,butnobodycouldresistgettingbackoutside.Itwassoquietandthecold,cleanairandnaturalbeautyofSandringhamputeveryoneatease.

Nowonder it was Princess Diana’s favorite royal residence. Shemay nothave joined in the shooting,but she loved togo forwalks in theafternoonallalone“toclearthecobwebs”assheputit.ShewouldwalkpastParkHouseandstoptotakealookatit.Itwasaspecialhousetoher.Afterall,itwaswhereshewasborn.

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WoodFarm

Wood Farm was a small farmhouse on the estate, which wouldaccommodate family members from time to time. If the Queen wasattendingdogtrialsortheDukewascarriagedrivingatSandringham,theywould stay at Wood Farm rather than open up the big house. From myperspectiveasachef, thiswasasupcloseandpersonalas itgotwith theroyalfamily.WoodFarmis thesizeofaregularhomeandstaffwasverysmall with one butler, one chef, one dresser, one footman, one chauffer,and,ofcourse,twelvecorgis.

Thediningroomwasrightnexttothekitchen,andweknewwhentheQueenwascomingthroughforlunchbecausethedoorwouldopenandthedogswouldbeherdedintothekitchen.Icouldfeedasmanyastwelveintheroyaldiningroomandsixinthestaffroom,allthewhilenavigatingaroundthe dogs,whichwere jumping up for tidbits.You couldn’t push the dogsaway,fortheQueenwouldhearthemyelpinthenextroomandknowwhatwasgoingon.AttheendofthetriptheQueenwouldwalkpastthekitchenwindow, wave, and say thank you for a nice weekend. Now that is acompliment.

WoodFarm

Page 222: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

AtWoodFarm,playingwithoneofHerMajesty’scorgis

RINGINGINTHENEWYEARNewYear’sEvewasabiggerpartyforthestaffthanfortheroyalfamily.Yes,therewasachefonduty torefill theroyalmulledwineandcanapés,butmosteveryone else was in the rec hall kicking it up. Everyone, that is, but thefootmen.Theywerestillonduty,fulfillinganancientScottishcustomdeemedtobringluckfortherestoftheyeartothehouseanditsinhabitants.Thiscustomdictatedthattheyoungest,darkest-hairedfootmanwastocrossthethresholdintothehouseon thestrokeofmidnight.Once theyhadcompleted that ritual, theycame over to the rec hall to celebrate the New Year with the rest of us. IrememberCyrilDickman,thepalacestewardwhoservedmorethanfiftyyearswith the royal family, stepping up as our official New Year’s Eve host. Wewouldall stand in a circlewithCyril in themiddle andhewould ring a largehandbellaswesang“AuldLangSyne.”

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NewYear’sDaymenuandturkeyagain

Anotherroyalyearhadcometoaclose.

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MASHEDPOTATOES

Ispentawholeyearat theSavoyHotel justpreparingvegetables.Duringthattime I probably made about ten gallons of mashed potatoes every day.EventuallyIfine-tunedarecipethatmostsaymakesamazingmashedpotatoes.Thesecretisinmashingorricingsotherearenolumps,addingplentyofcreamandbutterandtastingagainandagainuntiltheseasoningisjustperfect.Don’tskimponthebutteronthetop.Thelookoneveryone’sfacesasthefirstpersonspoonsintothepotatoesandthemeltedbutterrunsintothemashisworthit.

2poundsredpotatoes,peeledandquartered

½stick(4tablespoons)unsaltedbutter⅓cupheavycream

2teaspoonssalt,ormoretotaste

⅛teaspoongratednutmeg⅛teaspoongroundwhitepepper½stick(¼cup)saltedbutter,meltedfordecoration(optional)1tablespoonfinelychoppedparsley(optional)1.Placethepotatoesinalargepot,addcoldwatertoabout1inchabovethepotatoes,cover,andbringtoaboil.Lowertheheattoasimmer,andcookuntilthepotatoesaretenderwhenprickedwithafork,about20minutes.2.Drainoffthewater,andputthepotatoesinapanoverlowheatfor1to2minutestodrythemthoroughly.Mashthepotatoeswithapotatomasherorpassthemthroughariceruntiltherearenolumps.Stirinthebutter,heavycream,salt,nutmeg,andwhitepepper.Adjusttheseasoningandplaceintoaservingdish.Flattenthetopandgarnishwiththemeltedbutterandparsleyifdesired.

MAKES6SERVINGS

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Page 226: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

ROASTTURKEY

1(14-pound)turkey3onions,peeledandchopped4carrots,peeledandchopped6ribscelery,chopped2bayleaves2cupswhitewine

3cupschickenbroth

1stickbutter,softened

2tablespoonsdriedthyme

Koshersaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Removetheturkeyfromtherefrigeratorabout1½hoursbeforecookingtoallowittocometoroomtemperature.Preheattheovento325degrees.Placetheonions,carrots,celery,andbayleavesinthebottomofalargeroastingpan.Pourthewineandbrothoverthetop.

2.Removeallthegibletsinsidetheturkey.Rinsetheturkeythoroughlyandpatdry.Rubthesoftenedbutteralloverthebreastandlegsoftheturkey,andsprinklealloverwiththethymeandthesaltandpepper.Laytheturkeyonitssideontopofthevegetablesandroastfor1½hours.Coverwithfoiliftheturkeystartstobrowntooquickly.Turntheturkeyontoitsotherside,androastforanotherhour.Laytheturkeybreastsideup,removeanyfoil,androastuntiltheinternaltemperatureinthethickestpartofthethighregisters170degreesandtheskinisgoldenbrown.

3.Removetheturkeyfromtheovenandplaceitonalargewarmedplate.Tentitwithfoiltokeeptheturkeywarmandletitrestfor30minutes.Strainthebrothatthebottomofthepan,skimanyfatthatrisestothetop,anduseasis,orthickenwithall-purposeflourandbuttertomakeaclassicturkeygravy.

MAKES8SERVINGS

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RoastTurkey

Page 228: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

PIQUANTDILLANDLIMESAUCE

4tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,divided2clovesgarlic,peeledandcrushed½cupheavycream1tablespoonsugar2teaspoonshoney2teaspoonsDijonmustard4tablespoonsfreshlimejuice

2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshdill

In a small sauté pan over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter. Add thecrushedgarlic,stirforaminute,andthenaddthecream,sugar,honey,mustard,and lime juice.Whisk the ingredients together, and increase the heat until thesauce starts to boil. Reduce the liquid by half, or until it gets to a syrupconsistency. Remove the pan from the heat, add the remaining 2 tablespoonsbutter,andshake thepanuntil thebutterblends into thesauce.Stir in thedill.Keepthesaucewarmuntilyouarereadytoserveit,butdonotletitreturntoaboil.

MAKES1CUPOR4SERVINGS

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CURRIEDCHICKENPIES

½stick(¼cup)unsaltedbutter

2tablespoonsmildcurrypowder

¼cupall-purposeflour

1cupchickenbroth

½cupplus1tablespoonheavycreamSaltandfreshlygroundpepper1(2½-pound)roastedchicken,skinandbonesremoved1(17-ounce)boxfrozenpuffpastry,thawed1egg,beaten1.Preheattheovento375degrees.Inasautépanoverhighheat,meltthebutterandstirinthecurrypowder.Addtheflourandstiruntilcombined.Graduallywhiskinthechickenbrothandcream,seasonwiththesaltandpeppertotaste,andreducetheheattoasimmer,forabout5minutes.

2.Dicethechickeninto¼-inchcubes,andstirintothesauce.Addalittlemorebrothifthesauceistoothick.Heatuntilbubbling,andadjusttheseasoning.Removefromtheheatandallowtocool.

3.Rolloutbothsheetsofpuffpastryonalightlyflouredtableintoarectangleabout⅛inchthick.Usinga2-inchcookiecutter,cut48circlesoutofthedough.Place1½teaspoonsofthecurriedchickenfillinginthecenterofhalfthecircles.

4.Brushtheotherhalfofthepastrycircleswiththebeatenegg,andpress,brushedeggsidedown,ontothetopofthechickenmix,sealingthepastryedgestogether.Brushthetopsofthepieswiththeremainingbeatenegg,andtransferthepiestoabakingsheet.

5.Bakeinthecenteroftheovenfor15minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Removetoacoolingrackandallowthepiestocoolslightly.

MAKES24SMALLPIES

Page 230: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

VENISONSTEW

2poundsvenisonhaunchorleg,cutinto1-inchdice1½cupsredwine2mediumonions,finelychopped3ribscelery,chopped2carrots,peeledandchopped1bayleaf

1teaspoondriedthyme

4clovesgarlic,crushed6juniperberries,crushed1teaspoonrosemary

2tablespoonsoliveoil

½stick(¼cup)butter½cupall-purposeflour1¼cupsbeefbrothSaltandfreshlygroundpepper

2tablespoonsredcurrantjelly1.Marinatethevenison,redwine,onions,celery,carrots,bayleaf,thyme,garlic,juniperberries,androsemarytogetherinaziplockbag.Sealthebagandrefrigerateforuptothreedays,butatleastovernight.

2.Preheattheovento350degrees.Strainthemeat,vegetables,andherbsintoacolander,reservingtheredwinemixtureforuselater.InaheavyDutchovenorcoveredcasserole,heattheoilandbutteroverhighheatuntilthebuttermelts.Addthemeatandvegetablesandsautéinbatchessonottocrowdthepan,untilthemeatstartstobrown.Repeatwithallthemeat.Setasideallthebrownedmeatandvegetables.Inthesamepot,addtheflour.Stirforseveralseconds,andthenaddthebeefbrothandthereservedredwinemixturefromthemarinade.Returnthevenisonandvegetablestothepot,andseasonwiththesaltandpeppertotaste.

3.Bringthesaucetoasimmer,cover,andplaceonthemiddleovenshelf.Braisefor1½hours,oruntilthemeatistender.Removefromtheoven,adjustthe

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seasonings,andremovethebayleaf.Stirintheredcurrantjellyandserve.

MAKES4SERVINGS

Page 232: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

SUPREMEOFPHEASANTSTUFFEDWITHGOATCHEESE

4(5-ounce)pheasantbreasts,from2(3-pound)youngpheasants

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter

½cupskinnedandfinelydicedredbellpepper

1pinchdriedthyme

Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper¼cupgoatcheese,softened

2tablespoonsoliveoil1(14-ounce)packagefrozenpuffpastry,thawed1eggyolk

2teaspoonssesameseeds

1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Removethetenderloinfromeachpheasantbreast,andsetthetenderloinsaside.Turneachbreastskinsidedown.Ata45-degreeangle,makeanincisionlengthwiseoneachsideofthepheasantbreast.Thiscreatesapocketthatcanbestuffed.Setthebreastsaside.

2.Preparethefillingbymeltingthebutterinasmallskilletsetovermediumheat.Addthepeppersandsautéuntilsoftandlimp.Addthethyme,andseasonwiththesaltandpepper.Removefromtheheatandcool.Dividethegoatcheeseandstuffanequalamountineachbreastpocket,followedbytheredpeppers.Laythereservedtenderloinontopofthefilling,andsmooththeraisedpheasantmeatbackoverthetenderloin,creatingaplump,butnormal-

Page 233: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

shaped,pheasantbreast.Seasonthebreastswithsaltandpepper.3.Heattheoliveoilintheskillet,andsearthebreastsforabout2minutesperside,browninglightly.Removefromthepantoaplateandcool.

4.Openthepuffpastry,androllouttoabout¼inchthick.Cut8longstrips,approximately1×18inches,andbrushonesideofeachstripwiththeeggyolk.

5.Windthepastryaroundthepheasantbreast,startingatthepointandoverlappingslightlytocoverthepheasantinaspiralcone.Theegg-yolk-brushedsideofthedoughshouldbefacingup,nottouchingthepheasantbreast.Youwillprobablyneed2piecesofthedoughtocovereachbreast,andmakesurethepiecesarejoinedontheunderside.Sprinklethesesameseedsonthetop,andplacebreastsonabakingsheet.Chillthepheasantsforabout30minutes.Youcanprepareuptothisstage12hoursahead.

6.Bakeinthecenteroftheovenfor25to30minutes,oruntilthepastryisagoldenbrown.Removetoaplateandletrestinawarmplacefor5minutes.Toserve,sliceacrossthebreastonthebiastoshowthefilling,andservewithPiquantDillandLimeSauce(page162).

MAKES4SERVINGS

Page 234: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

LAMBRAAN(INDIANLEGOFLAMB)

3½to4poundsbonelesslegoflamb6clovesgarlic,crushed1onion,finelydiced2tablespoonsoliveoil1cupplainyogurt

1teaspoonsalt

½cupgroundrawcashewnuts

1tablespoongarammasala

1tablespoonfreshginger,crushed2tablespoonsredchilisauce(Srirachaorotherchilegarlicsauce)

1teaspoongroundcumin½cupchoppedfreshmint1.Rinseandpatdrythelegoflamb.Scorethelamb,cutting½inchdeepintotheskinabout6to8times.Placethegarlic,onion,oliveoil,yogurt,salt,cashewnuts,garammasala,crushedginger,chilisauce,andcuminintoalargeziplockbag,andmixwell.Addthelamb,rubbingthemarinadeintothelamb,especiallyintothecutareas.Refrigerateforatleasttwohoursanduptotwodays.Theflavorwillgetstrongerthelongerthelambmarinates.

2.Preheattheovento350degrees.Removethelambfromthebagontoaroastingpan,andpourthemarinadeoverthetop.Bakefor2hours,oruntilthelambistender.Bastewiththejuicesseveraltimesduringcooking.

3.Removethelambfromtheroastingpan,andallowtorestforabout15minutes.Reducetheremainingmeatjuices/marinadetoasauceconsistency.Slicethelambinto½-inch-thickslices,pourthesauceovertheslices,and

Page 235: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

garnishwiththechoppedmint.

MAKES6TO8SERVINGS

Page 236: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen
Page 237: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

IRISHSTEW

¼cupoliveoil2poundslambleg,cutinto2-inchchunks4mediumpotatoes,peeledandcubedinto1½-inchpieces3largecarrots,peeledandchopped3mediumonions,choppedSaltandfreshlygroundpepper2teaspoonsdriedthyme1cubebeefbouillon1cubechickenbouillon2bayleaves

1quartwaterorless

½cupchoppedfreshparsley1.Heattheoilinalargesautépanuntilhot,butnotsmoking.Searthelambuntilbrown,andsetthemeatasideinabowl.Drainoffallbutathinlayerofoil.Layerthepotatoes,carrots,onions,andlambinaDutchovenorenameledcoveredcasserole.Addsaltandpeppertotaste,thethyme,bouilloncubes,andthebayleavesontop.Addjustenoughwatertocoverthemeatandvegetables.

2.Heatthecasseroleonhighuntiltheliquidjustcomestoaboil.Coverandreducetheheattosimmer.Cookthestewfor2½hours,oruntilthemeatistender.Whendone,removefromtheheat,skimoffthetoplayeroffat,andadjusttheseasonings.Removethebayleaves,andsprinklewiththeparsley.

3.Servehotwithlotsofsodabreadtomopupthejuices.Thisdishisevenbetterreheatedthenextday.

MAKES6SERVINGS

Page 238: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

BREASTOFPHEASANTWITHAPEARLBARLEY“RISOTTO”

Theearthyflavorsreallycomethroughinthisdish.Butdon’tworryifyoucan’tgetpheasantorarenotkeenongame;chickenbreastsareafinesubstitute.It’sworth paying a little extra for the chanterelle mushrooms. And if your walletallows,afewmorelmushroomswouldbewonderful.

2pheasantbreasts,or2(5-ounce)chickenbreasts

1tablespoonoliveoil

8sprigsfreshor1⅛teaspoondriedsavory1lemon,zestandjuiceonly1cuppearlbarley2cupscoldwater

1tablespoonbutter

4slices(4ounces)smokedbacon,cutintolardoons2smallleeks,washedandfinelychopped6ounceschanterellesorbuttonmushrooms,cutintobite-sizepieces

2cupschickenbroth6ouncesgoatcheese,softenedSaltandfreshlygroundpepper1.Marinatethepheasantbreastswiththeoliveoil,lemonjuice,and2sprigs(or⅛teaspoondried)savoryinaziplockbagintherefrigeratorforatleast1hour,orupto24hours.Beforegrilling,removethepheasantbreastsfromtherefrigeratorandallowthemtocometoroomtemperature.2.Bringthepearlbarleyandwatertoaboilinaheavypan,andsimmeroverlowheatfor20minutes,oruntiltheliquidhasevaporatedandthebarleyistender.

Page 239: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

Inalargepan,meltthebutterandsautéthebaconuntilitstartstocrisp.Addtheleeksandmushroomsandcookoveramediumheatuntilsoftened.

3.Preheatthegrilltomediumhot.Searthepheasantbreasts,orchickenbreasts,onthegrilloverdirectheatabout4to6minutesperside,oruntiltheyreachpreferreddoneness.Iliketoservethepheasantpink.Seteachbreastonacleanplatetorestfor5minutes.

4.Stirthepearlbarleyandchickenbrothintothebaconandmushroommixture,andsimmeruntiltheliquidstartstoappearlikeashinyglaze.Foldinthegoatcheese,6sprigsfresh(or1teaspoondried)savory,andlemonzest.Addthesaltandpeppertotaste.

5.Spoonthebarleyrisottoontoplatesnexttothepheasant.

MAKES2SERVINGS

Page 240: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

BASMATIRICEPILAF

2cupschickenbroth

1tablespoonoliveoil

½onion,finelydiced1cupbasmatirice

1tablespoonbutter

½cupslicedalmondsSaltandfreshlygroundpepper

2tablespoonschoppedfreshcilantro1.Inasmallsaucepan,bringthechickenbrothtoaboil.Inaseparateheavysaucepan,heattheoliveoiluntilwarm,addtheonion,andsautéuntilitstartstosoften.Stirintherice.Addthehotchickenbrothandstir.Bringthericetoaboil,andthenreducetheheattoasimmer.Coverandcookfor18minutes,oruntilalloftheliquidhasevaporated.

2.Inafryingpan,meltthebutterandaddthealmonds.Cookuntiltheyaregoldenbrown.Transferthecookedriceintoalargebowl,fluffupthegrainswithaforkandaddsaltandpepper.Pourthebutterandalmondsoverthericeandgarnishwiththechoppedcilantro.

MAKES4SERVINGS

Page 241: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

MINCEPIES

Filling3cupsapple,peeled,cored,anddiced½cupmixedcandiedpeel2cupsraisins1cupcurrants

1cupgratedbeefsuet1lemon,juiceandzestonly1orange,juiceandzestonly

1cupDemerarasugar

½teaspoongroundnutmeg½teaspoongroundcloves

1teaspoongroundcinnamon

½cupbrandy½cupportwine

Assembly2boxesfrozenpuffpastry,thawed1egg,beaten

2tablespoonspowderedsugar

1.Forthefilling,placetheapples,candiedpeel,raisins,currants,suet,lemonjuiceandzest,orangejuiceandzest,sugar,nutmeg,cloves,cinnamon,brandy,andportwineinalargebowlandstir.Refrigerateinaplasticcontainerwithatight-fittinglidforatleastthreeweeksbeforeusing.Anyleftovermincemeatcanbekeptforuptoayearintherefrigerator.

2.Preheattheovento350degrees.

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3.Fortheassembly,rolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredtabletoabout⅛inchthick,andcutout48(2-inch)circlesusingacookiecutter.Placeabout1½teaspoonsofmincemeatfillinginhalfthecircles.Brushtheremaining24circleswiththebeatenegg.Press,eggsidedown,ontothetopofthemincemeat,sealingthepastryedgestogether.Brushthetopsofthepieswiththebeatenegg,andtransfertoabakingsheet.

4.Bakeinthecenteroftheovenfor15minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Removetoacoolingrackandallowthepiestocoolslightly.Dustwiththepowderedsugarbeforeserving.

MAKES24SMALLINDIVIDUALPIES

Page 243: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

TREACLETART

This tart is traditional British comfort food dating back to the seventeenthcenturywhen itwasmade using treacle, theEnglishword formolasses.Mostpeoplenowusegoldensyrup,aproductmadebyevaporatingsugarcanejuiceto the consistency of corn syrup. It has a nutty tastewithout the bitterness ofmolasses.ItisHarryPotter’sfavoritedessertand“HarryWales”enjoyedittoo.

¾cupplus2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,softened¾cupplus2tablespoonsgranulatedsugar1egg

1teaspoonvanillapaste

3½cupsall-purposeflour1(1-pound)jargoldensyrup2cups(about7slices)freshwhitebreadcrumbs,withoutcrusts1lemon,juiced1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Creamthebutterandsugaruntillightincolor.Addtheeggandvanillapaste,andslowlyincorporatetheflourtoformaball.Wrapthisdoughinparchmentpaperorplasticwrap,andrefrigerateforatleast1hourbeforeusing.Thiswillmakemorepastrythanyouneedforasingletart,butIalwaysliketohavesomesparedoughintherefrigerator.Itkeepsforatleastthreeweeks.

2.Rolloutthedoughtoabout½inchthick,andlinean8-inchflanringorpiedish.Chilluntilreadytofill.Inalargebowl,combinethegoldensyrup,breadcrumbs,andlemonjuice,andspoonthemixtureintothepieshell.

3.Bakeinthecenteroftheovenfor30minutes,oruntilthepastryedgesaregoldenbrown.Removefromtheoven,andallowtocoolslightly.Sliceandservewithicecream,whippedcream,orEnglishcustard.

MAKES6SERVINGS

Page 244: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

AnoteinthemenubookfromtheQueen,requestingtreacletart

Page 245: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

TRADITIONALIRISHSODABREAD

4cupsall-purposeflour1teaspoonbakingsoda

1teaspoonkoshersalt

1¾cupsbuttermilk

1.Preheattheovento425degrees.Sifttheflour,bakingsoda,andsaltintoalargemixingbowl.Graduallyaddthebuttermilk,stirringgently,andbindingthedryingredientstogetherwiththebuttermilktoformalargeroundofdough.Placethedoughonalightlygreasedbakingsheet,andmakeacrossabout1inchdeepontopofthedough.

2.Coverthesodabreaddoughwithsomethinglikealargecakepanandbakeforabout30minutes.Removethecakepantobrownthebread,andbakefor10moreminutes.Thebread,whenfullybaked,willhaveahollowsoundwhentappedonthebottom.

MAKES6SERVINGS

Page 246: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

CHRISTMASCAKE

Christmascakeswereoneofthefirstthingsonourmindsoncethecourtmovedback to Buckingham Palace from Balmoral Castle. We needed about threemonths to let the cakes mature, and we would “feed” them every week withsyrup.IfyouplantomakethisrecipeforChristmas,you’llneedtostartbakinginSeptember.

2½cupscurrants2½cupssultanas¾cupbrandy1cupglacécherries,quartered1orange,zestandjuiceonly1largelemon,zestandjuiceonly4sticks(1pound)unsaltedbutter,softened½cupplus1tablespoonunsulfuredmolasses2¼cupsMuscovadoorturbinadosugar8eggs,lightlybeaten3cupsall-purposeflour

3tablespoonsbrandy

½cupsugar½cupwater½(12-ounce)jarapricotjam

1cuppowderedsugar

1½poundsmarzipan

1tablespoonbrandy1½poundsready-to-rollfondanticing1.Thedaybeforepreparing,mixthecurrants,sultanas,brandy,cherries,andorangeandlemonzestandjuicesina

Page 247: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

largebowl,andletthemsteepovernight.

2.Preheattheovento325degrees.Linea10-inchcakepanwithparchmentpaperonthebottomandsides.

3.Creamthebutter,molasses,andsugaruntillightandfluffy.Graduallyaddtheeggsandflour,alternatinguntilbothareincorporated.Graduallystirthemixedfruitintothecakemixuntilcombined,andspoonintothepreparedtin.Bakeinthecenteroftheovenforabout2½hours.Ifthetopstartstobrown,placeasheetofaluminumfoiloverthecakeuntilitiscooked.Thecakeisreadywhenaskewerinsertedintothecenterofthecakecomesoutclean.

4.Removethecaketoacoolingrackandleaveinthepanuntilcold.Removethecakeandwrapitfirstinparchmentpaperandtheninplasticwrap.Leaveinacool,dryplaceforthreemonths,brushingitonceaweekwithasolutionof3tablespoonsbrandymixedwith5tablespoonssugarsyrup(½cupsugardissolvedin½cupwater).

5.Tofinishthecake,heattheapricotjam,passthroughasieve,andliberallybrushitoverthecake.Unwrapthecake,andplaceituprightonacakedish.Inalittlepowderedsugar,rolloutthemarzipanabout⅛inchthickintoacirclebigenoughtocoverthetopandsidesofthecake.Drapethemarzipanoverthecakeassmoothlyaspossible.Trimanyexcessatthebase.Thenrolloutthefondantdoughinalittlepowderedsugarintoacirclebigenoughtocoverthetopandsidesofthecake.Coverthecake,smoothingoutthetopandsides.Thecakewillkeepforuptofourweeks.

MAKES10SERVINGS

Page 248: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

MULLEDWINE

1bottleredwine3tablespoonsMuscovadosugar1cupgranulatedsugar

1cinnamonstick

½teaspoongratednutmeg1orange,halvedandsliced1lemon,halvedandsliced1apple,halvedandsliced,coreremoved1bayleaf4wholecloves1cupbrandy1cupportwine

1cupfreshlysqueezedorangejuice

Pour thewine, sugars, cinnamon, nutmeg, orange and lemon and apple slices,bay leaf,cloves,brandy,portwine,andorange juice intoa stainless steelpan,andplaceoveralowheatuntiljustwarm.Donotboiloryouwillburnoffthealcohol.Strainintoglassesandserve.

MAKES2QUARTS

Page 249: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

BRANDYSAUCE

½stick(¼cup)unsaltedbutter½cupall-purposeflour1¼cupsmilk1½cupsheavycream⅓cupsugar¼cupbrandyInaheavysaucepansetoverahighheat,meltthebutter,andstirintheflouruntilcombined.Graduallywhiskinthemilkandcreamuntilcombinedandreducetheheattolow.Simmerforabout10minutes,removefromtheheat,andwhiskinthesugarandbrandy.

MAKES6SERVINGS

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CHRISTMASPUDDING

We would make ten times this recipe each October after returning fromBalmoral.Thepuddingswouldthenbereadytousethenextyear(preptimeis3months to 2 years). These would be sent to Balmoral and Sandringham forshooting and hunting lunches. For shooting lunches we would cut fingers ofpudding3×1¼inchesandfrybothsidesinclarifiedbutteruntilwarm.Hunterswouldgettwofingersofcoldpuddingintheirsacklunches.

Liketherecipeformincemeat,Christmaspuddingincludesbeefsuet,whichistheveryfinewhitefatsurroundingthekidneys.Itisn’talwayseasytofind,soaskyourlocalindependentbutcherandthey’llusuallyknowwheretogetsome.

½stick(¼cup)unsaltedbutter,plusbutterforgreasing5cupsraisins3cupscurrants

2cupscandiedlemonpeel

2½cupsgratedbeefsuet

6cupsfreshwhitebreadcrumbs

1¼cupsall-purposeflour3½tablespoonspumpkinpiespice3eggs2cupsDemerarasugar

2cupsdarkbeer½cupdarkrum½cupbrandy,plus¼cupbrandy,forpouring1.Usingapastrybrush,lightlygreasethebottomandsidesofthepuddingbowlsandalsothreesquarepiecesofparchmentlargeenoughtocoverthetopsofthebowls.

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2.Mixtogetherinalargebowlthebutter,raisins,currants,lemonpeel,suet,breadcrumbs,flour,piespice,eggs,sugar,beer,rum,and½cupbrandy;dividethemixtureequallyamongthepuddingbowls.Placetheparchmentpaperontopofthebowls,andcovereachwithaluminumfoil,wrappingtightlyaroundthebowl.

3.Putthepuddingbowlsinalargesteamerwithalid,makingsurethewatercomesatleasthalfwayupthesidesofthebowls.Boilfor5hours,checkingthewaterinthesteamereveryhour.Youwillprobablyneedtoaddmorewater.

4.Removethebowlsfromthesteamerandallowthepuddingstocool.Refrigerateforatleastthreemonthsanduptotwoyears.

5.Toserve,reheatthepuddinginasteamerfor2hours.Invertontoawarmdinnerplate.Warmtheremaining¼cupbrandy,pouritoverthepudding,andsetalight.Serveimmediatelywithbrandysauce(page179).

MAKESTHREE2-POUNDPUDDINGBOWLS

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STEAMEDSYRUPSPONGEPUDDING

Recipes for steamed puddings are legion in British cookbooks, especially oldcookbooks. They are usually easy to assemble, stovetop friendly, and alwaysdelicious. This pudding can be steamed in two ways. You can steam it in adoubleboilerfittedwithasteamerinsertandawell-fittinglid,oryoucanplacethepuddingbasinonaracklaidinsideapot.Ifyouchoosethelatter,thewaterinsidethepotshouldcomehalfwayupthesidesofthepuddingbasin.Witheithermethod, checkyourwater levels from time to time.Youdon’twant thedoubleboilerorthepotrunningdry.

1stick(½cup)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusbutterforgreasing¾cupgranulatedsugar2eggs1eggyolk

1teaspoonvanillapaste

1½cupsself-risingflour1lemon,zestandjuiceonly,divided

3tablespoonsmilk

2cupsgoldensyrup,divided1.Lightlygreaseatwo-pintpuddingbasinandapieceofparchmentpaperlargeenoughtofitoverthetopofthebasin.

2.Inalargebowlcreamthebutterandsugar,andgraduallyaddtheeggs,eggyolk,andvanillapaste.Thenfoldintheflour,followedbythelemonzest,milk,andfinallythelemonjuice.

3.Place1cupgoldensyrupintothebottomofthepreparedpuddingbasin,andgentlyspoonthespongepuddingmixtureontop.Coverwiththeparchmentpaperandapieceoffoil,andfoldtheedgestightlyoverthebasin.Carefully

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placethepuddingintothesteamer,oronarackinapot,andsteamforabout1½to2hours.Checkthewaterlevelinthesteamer/doubleboilerafterthefirsthour,andaddmorewaterifnecessary.

4.Toserve,removethefoilandparchmentpaper,andloosenthepuddingaroundtheedgesofthebasinwithasharpknifeoroffsetspatula.Invertthepuddingontoawarmedplate,andpourtheremaining1cupgoldensyrupoverthetop.ServewithEnglishcustard,icecream,orwhippedcream.

MAKES6SERVINGS

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TRADITIONALENGLISHTRIFLE

1(11-ounce)SaraLeeall-butterpoundcake1cupraspberryjam,orhalfa12-ouncejar

1cupfreshraspberries

1⅓cupsgranulatedsugar,divided1¼cupswater4tablespoonssherry(optional)2cupsheavycream

5eggyolks

½teaspoonvanillapaste

2teaspoonscornstarch1¼cupsheavycream,whippedtosoftpeaksfortopping1Cadbury’schocolateflakeor2ouncesmilkchocolateforgarnish1.Cutthepoundcakeinto¾-inchslices,andsandwichthecakeslicestogetherwithalavishlayerofraspberryjam.Laythecakesandwichesintoalargeglassbowlacrossthebottominasinglelayerandslightlyupthesides.Spreadthefreshraspberriesontop.Boil1cupsugarandthewatertogetherinasmallsaucepanfor5minutes,oruntilthesugarmeltsandformsalightsyrup.Addthesherry,ifusing,tothesyrup,andpourthewarmsyrupoverthepoundcakeandberries.2.Bringtheheavycreamtoaboilinalargesaucepan.Inaseparatebowl,mixtheeggyolks,⅓cupsugar,vanillapaste,andcornstarchtogetherinasmallbowl.Pourthehotcreamovertheeggmixture,whiskingallthewhileuntilallthecreamisadded.Returnthecreamandeggmixturetothesaucepanandcontinuetostiroverlowheatuntilitjuststartstothicken.Don’tovercook.Removefromtheheat,andallowthecreamtocoolslightlybeforepouringoverthesponge.

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3.Refrigeratethetrifleuntilthecustardhaschilledandset.Toserve,spoonthewhippedcreamoverthetopofthecustard.Decoratewiththechocolateflakeorgratedchocolate.

MAKES6TO8SERVINGSOR4SERVINGSIFYOULIVEINMYHOUSE

(left to right)MincePies,ChocolateRoulade“YuleLog,”TraditionalEnglish

Trifle

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CHAPTERSEVEN

KensingtonPalace

AHomeforAllSeasonsKensingtonPalacewasthelastplaceIworkedinEnglandandinsomewayswasthemost important place I have everworked. Itwas the residenceofPrincessDianauntilherdeathanditwastheplacesheturnedintoahomeforherselfandhersons,WilliamandHarry.

I remember cooking atWoodFarm forHerMajestyoneDecemberday in1992,whilesheattendedthedogtrials.ShehadjustreturnedaftertheeventandsatinherLandRover,listeningtoPrimeMinisterJohnMajortelltheHouseofCommons—and the rest of the world—that the Prince and Princess ofWalesweretoseparate.IhavenevershakenthatimageoftheQueen,aloneinhercar,quietlylisteningtotheradio.Itwasasadmomentforusall,butespeciallyforher. Ithadonlybeena fewweeks since thegreat fireatWindsorCastle—andnowthis.IimmediatelythoughtthatIwouldnolongerseePrincessDianaatanyoftheroyalhousesandmightnotseetoomuchoftheboyseither.

But things turnedoutdifferently thanI thought. ItwasPrinceCharleswhomovedout ofKensingtonPalace. PrincessDiana stayed and the staff that hadservedthembothwassplitaccordingly.PrinceCharlestooktwoofthechefsandleftonewiththeprincess,creatingavacancy.Idecidedtothrowmyhatinthering.IgotwordtotheprincessthatIwantedthepositionandmyinterestmusthavebeenwellreceived.Allotherapplicantsweredroppedandthesubsequentinterviewwasamereformality.

Iwent towork for theprincess for thenext fouryears. Itwasn’t that longreally,butmymemoriesofthoseyearsaresofullthattheytendtocrowdouttheyears spent working at Buckingham Palace. Sure, I was sorry to leave mykitchenmatesandtravelingaroundtheworldin“royalstyle”withHerMajesty,butotherwiseIwasreadytogo.Ihadworkedmywayupfromjuniorcooktosenior pastry chef and was now ready for a new challenge. At Kensington Iwould be responsible for running a whole (albeit small) kitchen, a refreshingchangefromthemorerigidpartiesystematthepalace.

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MyreturntotheKensingtonwaspickedupbythepress

Even though I knewPrincessDiana from the palace,my relationshipwithher really took offwhen I startedworking atKensington. Shewas entering anew stage in her life and taking better care of herself.Her years as a bulimiasufferer had ended and she was eating properly. She had willpower. I oftenteased her when I made donuts for the boys, saying, “Go on, your RoyalHighness,tryone.”

“Oh,Darren,”shewouldreply,“thatwillgostraight tomyhips.”Andshewouldgrabapieceoffruitinstead.

TheKensingtonapartmentwaselegantandcomfortable,laidoutoverthreefloorswith anursery for theboys.Therewas a small openkitchen thatwas apleasureformetoworkin,especiallyafterthelabyrinthinekitchensofWindsoror Buckingham Palace. The kitchen had a huge window that opened onto acourtyard.Therewasnoroomthereformetogrowanything,soIhadawindowboxbuiltandbegancultivatingfreshherbs.Onwarmdays,allofthewindowsinthecourtyardwouldbeopenandtheprincess’sfavoriteoperaariaswouldwaftintothekitchen.Ithinkitmighthavemademyherbsgrowabitfaster!

Theapartment’slocationwasperfectforPrincessDiana.Situatedrightinthe

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heartofLondonnearChelseaandNottingHill,Kensingtonput theprincess inthemidstofbusycity life.Shecouldpopoffdown the roadandstop intoherfavoritecaféforacappuccinoorcallinononeofhergirlfriends.ShoppingwasnearbyandshecouldgetaroundLondoneasily.

EverythingaboutlifeatKensingtonwasmorerelaxedthanlifewiththeroyalfamily.WhenWilliam and Harry were at homewith their mum, the rules ofetiquettewereeased. In fact, therewasquiteabitofhuffingandpuffingfromthenannywhothoughtitscandalousthattheboyswereeatingtheirdinnerswiththeirmumoffoftrayswhilewatchingavideo.Evenwhenlunchwasservedinthediningroom,theprincessandtheboysatefamily-style.Foodwasserved“allin,”whichmeantbothcourseswereplacedonthesideboardbeforetheyenteredthediningroom.

Thisstyleofservice,sometimesusedbytheQueen,gavemoreprivacyandmeantthebutlersdidn’thavetokeepcominginandoutofthediningroom.Theprincesswouldusuallytuckintoapieceofchickenandasalad,whiletheboyswould have chicken, roasted potatoes, and some vegetables. I wouldoccasionally roast potatoes for the princess too, though unlike the boys, shewouldhavethefat-freeversion.ForthatI’dtossthepotatoesineggwhites,salt,andpaprikaandbake.Dessertwasusually something likebanana flanand theprincessmightskipthatinfavorofayogurt.WhatachangefromBuckinghamPalace.Noweveryonejustpassedfoodroundthetableandchattedupastorm.Itwasexactlywhattheprincesswantedforherboys.

Itwasasimplerhouseholdtoo.WhenIcametoKensington,PrincessDianahadahouseholdstaffoftwelve.Thereweretwochefs,twobutlers,twodressers,apoliceprotectionofficer,twohousemaids,akitchenhelper,achauffeur,andananny.Itsoonbecameclearthatwastoomany.Theprincessbeganeliminatingsomepositionsbutkeptherfavoritestaff,thoseshefeltshecouldtrust.

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Instructionsfrom“theboss”

By the time she died, the number had whittled down to just five: a chef,butler,nanny,housemaid,andkitchenmaid,andapart-timehousekeeper.Itwasa small group and the typical royal household divisions melted away. If theprincess’scarneededgas—herewerethekeys.Someoneknockingatthedoororringingonthephone?Goandanswer it.Theroleofchefexpandedtobecomethatofacaretakerfortheprincessandtheboyswhentheywerehome.

My cooking reflected this new environment. No more traditional Frenchcuisinewithdemiglaceandcreamreductionsandcertainlynopheasant,grouse,ordeer.

APrincessintheKitchen

SoonaftercomingtoworkforPrincessDiana,IbegandatingWendy,whoisnowmywife.Theprincessquicklyfiguredoutthattherelationshipwasserious,soshewouldurgemetoleaveearlyonFridaytogetajumpstarton

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theweekend.Iwouldleavefoodreadytobemicrowaved—nothingfancy—andmake sure therewas plenty forHerRoyalHighness to choose from.Thatwasimportant.Theprincessdidmanythings,butcookingwasnotoneofthem.

Greatnews.IcanheadoutearlytoseeWendy.

Onceshetriedtocookdinnerforagirlfriend.Shedecidedtomakeaneasy pasta dish and shemust have let the pastawater boil over. The gaspilot lightblewoutandbySundaymorning, theprincesscouldsmellgas.She called security and they immediately sent out a call to the localfirehouse.When IcamebackonMonday, theprincessgleefully informedmethatshehadtwelvehunkymeninherhousewhileIwasgone.WhenIheardthewholestory,Ijustlaughed.Theprincessdidtoo.

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Darren,canyougivethistoWendy,please?”theprincesssaidasshepresentedmewithanenvelopeoneChristmasEve.

Infact,gamereferredexclusivelytotheboys’PlayStation!IfIwascookingonly for theprincess,breakfastwas sure tobe freshly squeezed juices,yogurt,maybe some scrambledeggs,or thatquintessentialBritish invention,beansontoast.Thathadzerofat,butloadsofcarbstogiveHerRoyalHighnessenergyatthegym.

For lunchordinner,PrincessDiana lovedpasta, freshvegetables, chicken,and fish. If shewas home alone for lunch, shewould have a place set at thekitchencounter.Shewouldwanderinaroundone,andIwouldserveherlunchand salad on her favorite Herrand Rothschild bird china. Dessert was alwaysfruit or yogurt. Lycheeswere her all-time favorite. She couldwork through apound of themwithout even thinking.When theywere in season, I’d leave abowlofthemoutinthesittingroomforher.

Theboyswereeasytofeedaswell.Theyhadtypicalchildhoodfavorites,allthe things my own children now enjoy—like stuffed potato skins, roastedchicken,pizza,andpasta.Theywereevenprettygoodabouteatingtheirveggies.Nannymade sure of that. The entire family loved ice cream, and often eitherWilliamorHarrywouldwanderintothekitchenlookingforhisfavoriteHaagen-Dazschocolatechocolatechip.Theywerealwayspoliteenoughtoask,andthenhelpedthemselvestoaspoonandtheicecream.Williamwouldsitinthekitchenwindowsill, his spoon digging right into the container, chatting away andkeepingoneeyeonthestairsforNanny.

Youdidn’tgetthatatBuckinghamPalace.IftheboyswerevisitingGrannyandwantedicecream,theQueenwouldcallherpage,whointurnwouldcalltheheadchef.Theheadchefwouldcallthepastrykitchenandthepastrychefwouldinturncallthesilverpantryforsomesilverdishestopresentiton.Theicecream

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wouldbeformedintodecorativequenelleshapesandplacedinthesilverdessertdish.Then itwasoff to the linen room toget thepropernapkin.Eventually afootmanwould arrive to take the ice creamup to the royal dining room somefifteenminuteslater.

Theboys’lunch:(lefttoright)CornontheCob,BananaFlan,RoastPork,PotatoSkins

Thecousins,Fergie’sdaughters,oftencameoverforavisitwhentheywerein town,much toWilliam andHarry’s delight. Theywould all run about thehouse shrieking at the top of their lungs and enjoying themselves immensely.TheDuchessofYorkwouldstayforteaandvisit.Theprincessadoredthegirlsandwouldmake sure theyeachhadagift and that aballoonwas tied to eachchild’s chair. Tea would include several kinds of sandwiches, one being jampennies—theQueen’sfavorite.Chocolatechipcookieswereamustsinceallthechildren loved them, and the princess realized that children need sweets too,fromtimetotime.

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I tried tokeep thecookinghealthyforeveryone,butoccasionallymetwithresistancefromthehousehold’syoungermembers.OneafternoonIenteredthekitchentoseeahandwrittennoteonthecounterthatread:“Darren,pleasegivetheboyspizzatonight.Thankyou.”Itwassignedbythenanny,butsomethingaboutthecrookedeight-year-oldhandwritinggaveitawayastheworkofPrinceHarry.Ipreparedroastedchickenandvegetablesandsentitallupwithaprivatechuckle.

Harryboundedintothekitchenthenextdaytellingmehewasgoingtogethismothertoallowpizzafordinnerthatnight.Idangledthenoteinfrontofhimandasked,“DoyouthinkIshouldletthenannyknowaboutthechange,Harry?”

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Hiseyesgrewbigassaucersandhedashedout.Infact,Ithinktheprincessdidallow them tohavepizza thatnight, and Iprepared itwithpleasure.TheboysalsolovedAmericanbarbequeandeveryonceinawhiletheycouldallbefoundtucked into abooth eating ribs andburgers at a local spot aptlynamedStickyFingersalongKensingtonHighStreet.

JuniorApprentices

WilliamandHarrycamebythekitchenfairlyoftenlookingforatreatortofindoutwhatwasfordinnerorevenjusttograbapieceoffruit.Buteveryonce inawhile theywould try theirhandatcooking.“CanwehelpmakeMummy’sdinner,please?”theywouldask.Theprincess’sfavoritedishwasstuffed eggplant and the boys would get very excited about putting thattogether.Nomatterthatitlookedlikesmashedeggplantwhenitwasdone,they served it proudly and the princesswas thrilled. Shewould eat everybite.I’msureittasteddelicious—itwasmadewithsuchlove.

ThecardsentfromPrincessDianawhenmydaughterKellywasborn.ItcamewiththebiggestbouquetofflowersIhaveeverseen.

WhenIthinkback,itseemstomethattheprincessknewhertimewithher

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childrenwasascarcetreasure.Itwoulddisappearastheygrewupandassumedmoreoftheirroyalresponsibilities.Shetriedtoletbothofthemhaveasnormaland relaxed a childhood as possible, and I think William and Harry reallybenefitedfromthat.Tohavecompleteunconditionallovefromtheirmotherwasasourceofstrengthfor them.Theywerefullofenergy, inquisitive,courteous,and temperamentally kind. You always knew when they were around: thecorridorswouldbethunderingwithnoiseoftheboysracingalongthehallwayorkickingaballordoingallthethingsthatboysdo.Itbroughtthehousetolife.Itbroughttheprincesstolifetoo.

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ENTERTAININGATHOME

PrincessDiana always took an active interest in theworld aroundher.By thetimeofherdeath,shewaspatronof119differentcharities,ahugenumber.ButthatwasPrincessDiana.When she sawaworthwhile cause, she threwherselfintoit.Shedidn’thavehandlersoradvisersoranyoftheBP“graysuits,”asshecalled them, testing thewatersandadvisingheronprotocol.Theprincesswasherself, spontaneous and sometimes impetuous. That and her kindness andwarmthwerehergreateststrengths.

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Sheopenedherhouseoftentoentertainonbehalfofthecharitiessheworkedsohardfor.Nodinnerparties,though.Lunchonly.Thatwasbydesign.Shewassure that the press would have a field day and there would be no end to thestoriesofwhowasinherhouseatnight.Butlunch,well,whocouldgossipaboutthat?

Thoughthediningroomcouldholduptothirtycomfortably,luncheonswereusuallylimitedtotwelve.PrincessDianapreferredsmallergroups.Shesaidthatitgaveherachancetotalktoeveryonearoundthetable.Herentertainingstylewas formal, but shemade everyone relax as soon as theywalked through thedoor.“Lookthemin theeyeandgiveafirmhandshake,”washermantra.Thediningroomwasveryfemininewithlotsofprettychinaandflowers.Shehaditcompletelyrepaintedaftertheprincemovedoutandnowthewallswerearustic,but tasteful, burnt orange. No gilt, no under butlers, no stewards and winewaiters,nopompatall.

BeetRed

Theprincesslikedalldifferentkindsofjuice,andsoIlearnedtoprepareallsorts,includingveggiejuices.Onceshecameintothekitchenandsaidshehadheardbeetrootjuicewasverygoodforyourskinandshewouldlikeaglass. I glanced quickly in my juicing book, which mentioned that youshould dilute beet juicewith carrot or apple.But since she justwanted ashot,Ijuicedsomebeetsandshedrankitdown.Shehadappointmentssetup all afternoon and wanted to look her best. By midmorning, her skinbegantoformredsplotchesandshewashavingpalpitations.

Shecameracing into thekitchen.“Aargh,Darren!”shecried.“I thinkyou’vepoisonedme!”

Well,Iwasprettysurethatshewouldlivetoseeanotherday,butIwasabitalarmed.GoodLord, I thought,whatdid that juicedo? It turnedoutthatthebookwasright.Beetjuiceisquitestrongandneedstobetemperedor diluted with other juices. After a quick stint on a tanning bed, theprincess’sblotchesbegan to fadeandshewasable tomakeherafternoonappointments.Irefrainedfromjuicinganythingredforawhile,thoughshedidlaughwhenIslylyputbeetrootsouffléonthemenuthenextday.

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WhensheentertainedIwouldtrytointroducenewdishestothemenu.Someof her favorites were pressed vegetable terrines with a pureed herb dressing,carrotandeggrouladewithamaplegingerdressing,bakedcrabmeatandcorncustards, chicken breast stuffed with red pepper and basil mousse, and icedpralineandamarettosouffléswithpoachedpears.

HollywoodatHome

PrincessDiana once hosted a lunch for the actor Clint Eastwood. I can’tremembertheexactreasonforthelunch,butIdorememberthatitwasonlyonewhere Iwas called into thedining room. It seemsMr.Eastwoodhadenjoyedhislunchsomuchheaskedtospeaktothechefdirectly.Isteppedthrough the green baize door and was introduced by the princess. Mr.Eastwood stood up to shakemy hand and Iwas surprised at how tall hewas!I’msixfeettwoinchesandamusuallythetallestoneintheroom.Atsixfeetfourinches,hehadmebestedbyafewinches.Idon’trecallwhathesaid. I just stood there in utter surprisewith a sheepish grin onmy face.WhatcanIsayexceptthatit“mademyday.”

Someofheroldfavoriteswereonthemenutoo.Tomatomoussewithlobsterwas a dish she loved from her Buckingham Palace days. The original recipecalledforthreedifferentkindsoffatandshehadmereworktherecipeintoafat-freeversion. I rememberononeoccasionwhena famousAmerican talk showhost came for lunch and I served the tomato mousse. The princess and Ichuckled later when she told me how the guest had gushed: “Diana this iswonderful! How do you manage to stay so slim?” Of course, the guest waseatingtheoriginalrecipewhilethebosshadthefat-freeversion.

Ofcourse,iftheboyshadfriendsover,thenthemenuwasmorekid-friendly:pork loinwithapple sauce,poachedchicken ina supremesaucewith riceandnursery favorites, baked jam roll and custard or a pear andbanana crumble, aPrinceCharlesfavorite.

Over the years, the princess opened her home to all sorts of people, somefamous, butmanywere just regular people doing goodwork. I remember sheonce invited a little boyover for lunch.Hehad cancer andhadwritten to hersaying hewould verymuch like to have lunchwith a princess.He arrived at

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Kensington Palace in a black taxicab with his sister andmother in tow. Youcouldtellhismomwasnervous.Enoughpressurehavinglunchwithareal-lifeprincess,buttohavetodoitwithyourkids!

TheprincessaskedmetoservesomethingWilliamandHarrylikedtoeat,soIroastedtwochickensandsomevegetables.Inthediningroomtheprincesshadplacedagift-wrappedtoytruckonthelittleboy’sseat,adollonhissister’s,andahand-tiedbouquetofflowersonthetableforhismother.Theyallsatdowntoeatandtheprincessdidherbesttoputeveryoneatease.

Halfway through themeal the little boy picked up his drumstick with hishands andbegangnawing at thebone.Themotherhad a terrified lookonherface andPrincessDiana, reading the situation quickly, put down her fork andknife andpickedupher chickenwithherhands too.Theboy’smother smiledandbreathedasighofrelief.ThatwasclassicPrincessDiana—shenevermissedathing.

ACOMPLICATEDLIFEIalwayslookbackonmyyearsatKensingtonwithpleasure.Iwasreallyhappythere.Butinallhonesty,Idon’tthinkthatwasalwaystruefortheprincess.Shefound it extremely hard to have a normal life. The media focus on her wasintense. The princess, because of her marriage and her charity work, was aperson of interest to every major news and media outlet in the world. Andwherever she went, the press followed. The fact that she lived her life in agoldfishbowlmadehermoreadamantthatonlythosepeoplewhocouldguardher privacy were allowed to stay in her house. If she felt you wereuntrustworthy, you ended up leavingKensington. She initially had a personalprotectionofficerassigned toher from thepalace,butendedupaskinghim toleave.ShefelthereverymovewasreportedbacktoBuckinghamPalace,andshejustcouldn’tstandthat.

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ChristmascardfromPrincessDiana

Shemissedherchildrenallthetime.Thecustodyarrangementwasthatsheand PrinceCharleswould each have the boys on alternate freeweekends andalternate holidays. By the time that Prince Charles and Princess Diana hadseparated,bothWilliamandHarrywereinboardingschoolandmostweekendstheystayedatschool.Thatwashardonher.Shewasnotyetreadyforthemtobeaway somuch.Andwhile she and the Prince split custody of the children onholidays,PrincessDiananevercelebratedChristmaswithherchildren.Shefeltthat atChristmas, the rightfulplace for theboyswasatSandringhamwith therestoftheroyalfamily.Itwasatraditionshewaswillingtosupport,butitleftherintearsandwithabigholeinherChristmasholiday.Shewasalonethen;allthestaffwereawayvisitingtheirownfamilies.IwouldloaduptherefrigeratorwithgoodiesforherandheadoutofthedooronChristmasEve.

Datingwas difficult for her and she could be fickle in her affections. Shedidn’thaveaclearsenseaboutwhatshewantedherlovelifetobe.Itwasaworkinprogress, impededbytherelentlessattentionhereverymovegenerated.Shewasreallypleasedatmyowngoodfortuneinmeetingmywife.Shethoughtitmustbeblissfullyeasytoformrelationshipswhenyourlifewasn’tsopublic.Ithinkshewasabsolutelyright.

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CufflinksgiventomebyPrincessDiana

Thereisnodoubtshehadherfaults.Theprincesswasneitheramartyrnorasaint. She could get furious at someone for a perceived slight and then neverspeak to that person again.She stopped speaking tome for a fewdays after Idrovetoofastintoworkoneday,nearlycollidingwithhercarassheheadedouttothegym.Myapologieswereprofuse,butnotenoughtostopherfromtellingtherestof thestaff thatIhadnearlykilledher.Fortunatelyforme,afterafewdaysallwasforgiven.

PrincessDianawasawomanbuildinganewlifeandsometimesitsoutlineswerenotcleartoher.Shecouldfeellost.Iwasherchefandsheoftensatinthekitchen eating her lunch and chatting. Sometimes the conversation was justaboutwhathappenedinlastnight’ssoapoperasandothertimesshewouldburstinandsay,“Darren,youwon’tbelievewhattheQueen[oroftenFergie]hasjusttoldme!”Ifshetrustedyou,thenyouwereprivytoeverythingandanythingonhermind.Conversationswouldmeanderovertopics,coveringalittlebitofthisandthat.ListeningtoherIfelt thather innatecompassionandkindnesswouldhelphermature into awomanofgreatpurpose.She justneeded time togrowintoit,aswealldo.

Ididn’tknowthattimewastheonethingshedidn’thave.IwokeupearlyonSunday,August31,1997.Itwasgoingtobeafunday.

The“boss”wasflyingbackfromhervacation,andWilliamandHarrywouldbeatthehouseforafewdaysbeforetheywentbacktoschool.TheboyshadbeenatBalmoralandwereflyingintotheVIPterminalataboutthesametimeastheprincess.They’d all be atKensington for dinner and I had alreadybought thefood.

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I sat down to breakfast and flipped the television on. I heard the BBCnewscastermentionPrincessDiana,butittookmeseveralsecondstomakeanysenseofwhathewassaying.OnscreenflashedapictureoftheprincesswiththedatesJuly1,1961–August31,1997underneath.Whatwashetalkingabout?Hecouldn’t be right. Her Royal Highness dead? No, there must be a mistake. IcalledKensingtonPalacebutonlygotaconstantbusysignal.

ThisnotecardaccompaniedaHermestieonChristmasEve.ItwastobethelastgiftIreceivedfromtheprincessbeforeshedied.

Idecidedtogointowork,takingallthefoodIhadboughtfordinnerwithme.As I drove through the gate into the royal compound, the usually cheerypoliceofficeracknowledgedme,thenquicklylookedaway.Iparkedmycarandheadedto theapartment,passingtheprincess’sofficeasIdid.TheofficedoorwasopenandIsteppedinside.Severalstaffmateswerethere,someintears.Noonesaidanything.Wealljuststoodthere,noneofusreallybelievingwhathadhappened.Thefaxmachinesuddenlybrokethesilence.

“OhmyGod!”Iheardoneofthesecretariessay.“Itistheprincess’slastwillandtestament.”ThefaxwasfromAntonyJulius,theprincess’sattorney.ItwasthenthatIrealizedshewasn’tcominghome.

During the next week I went in to work each day and cooked meals foranyonewhowasaround.Nooneate anything.Notevenme. Instead I took toambling around Kensington Palace gardens where only weeks before the

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princesshadgonewalkingorroller-bladinginabaseballcapanddarkglassessoasnottoberecognized.

The park was now jammed full of people, all in mourning. Bouquets offlowers, stacked almost three feet high, were piled against the black and giltpalace railings, and the perfume brought back memories of the princess’sbirthdayeachyearwhenitseemedlikeeveryfiveminutesanotherbouquetwasdeliveredtothehousefromacharity,afriend,anadmirer,orjustfromsomeonewhoselifeshehadtouched,someoneshedidn’tevenknow.Inoticedthatmanyofthebouquetswerefreesias,herfavoriteflower.CandleslituptheparkandIrememberedhowmuch she loved candlelight.The apartmentoften carried thescentofKennethTurneroriginalfragrancecandles.ShehadgivenmeoneasaChristmasgift.Istillhaveitandlightitonspecialoccasions.

SignedPhotoofPrincessDianaingiltframewithPrinceofWalesfeathers

Thedaysprecedingthefuneralwentbyinslowmotion.Iwasoutofsorts.Ididn’twant to cookand insteadate atMcDonald’s sixnights in a row. Itwasfamiliar and anonymous and oddly comforting. Along with the rest of thehousehold staff, Iwas allowed to visit the princess in the chapel, paymy lastrespects,andsignthecondolencebook.

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On thedayof the funeralwewereall atKensingtonPalacebynine in themorning.We formed a line at the front door, as we often did when PrincessDianawentoffonalongjourney,thistimetosaygood-byeforthelasttime.Wewere whisked toWestminster Abbey, through streets lined with more than amillionpeople.Thefuneralwasdifficultforme.IsatdirectlyacrossfromEltonJohnashesang“CandleintheWind”intributetotheprincess.Ifeltalumpinmythroatthatbecametearsasherbrother,EarlSpencer,gavetheeulogy.

Itwasn’tuntilIwasdrivinghomethateveningthatIsuddenlythought,NowwhatamIgoing todowithmyself? I stoppedatMcDonald’s foraburgerandtimetothink.IhadbeentoldthatI’dstayonthepayrollforsixmonthsandtheprincess’ssistershadrequestedthatIkeepmygraceandfavoraccommodationforuptoayearandnotbeturnedoutontothestreets.Good.Thatwouldgivemetimetosortoutmynextmove.

MohammedAlFayed,Dodi’sfather,hadpromisedjobstoanymembersoftheprincess’s staff, if theywantedone.But Ihadn’t really thoughtabout that.PrinceCharles also offeredme a position as a personal chef, but I declined. IthinkIwouldhaveforeverfeltPrincessDianalookingdownonmesaying,“Youarenotgoing to cook for thatwoman, areyou?” IwasalsoofferedapositionwithMichaelHesseltine,theformerdeputyprimeminister,athisstatelyhomeinOxfordshire, but he and Iwere politically poles apart. I decided thatwouldn’twork.

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Knowinghowmuchtheprincessadoredherfather,Isentheranotewhenhepassedaway.Ididn’texpectareply,buttheprincesslovedtowritenotes.

TheprincesshadalwaystalkedaboutmovingtoAmerica.AftereveryvisittotheStatesshewouldcomeintothekitchenandsay,“Darren,we’veabsolutelygottomovethere!”

Iwouldjust laughandreply,“Justgivemetimetopackafewclothesandthe juicer,yourRoyalHighness.” I calledher “yourRoyalHighness” rightupuntilherdeath,despitetheremovalofthetitleafterthedivorce.Idon’tknow.Itdidn’tseemrighttocallherbyanylessertitle.

Duringthenextweeksmythoughtskeptturningbacktothoseconversations.America.Live inAmerica.Well, someonemustneeda chef there. I could findsomeplacewarm.Definitelysomeplacewarmandawayfromallofthis.Maybethatjustmightwork...

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AVOCADOANDHEARTSOFPALMSALAD

1headBibborbutterheadlettuce

1(16-ounce)jarheartsofpalmrings,drained1ripeavocado,diced2naveloranges,peeledandsegmented1smallredbellpepper,finelydiced½smallredonion,finelydiced¼cupraspberryvinegar2teaspoonssugar1teaspoonDijonmustard2teaspoonslemonjuice

1tablespoonwalnutoil¼cupwaterSaltandfreshlygroundpepper

1tablespoonchoppedfreshtarragon

1.Tearthelettuceleavesintobite-sizepieces,removingthecenterriboftheouterleaves.Placethelettuceinalargebowl.Addtheheartsofpalm,avocado,orangesegments,bellpepper,andredonion.

2.Blendtheraspberryvinegar,sugar,mustard,lemonjuice,walnutoil,andwatertogether.Seasontotastewiththesaltandpepper.Foldinthetarragon.Drizzle2tablespoonsofthedressingoverthesalad,anddividethesaladamongfourplates.Drizzleeachplatewithmoredressing.Serveimmediately.

MAKES4SERVINGS

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Page 278: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

PARSNIPANDAPPLESOUPWITHPARMESAN-CHIVEFOAM

This recipe, which I often prepared for the princess, has the right balancebetweensilky,earthyparsnipflavorandthetasteoftart/sweetapplethatcomesthrough.Make time to prepare the garnish; it turns a good soup into a greatone.

Soup

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter

1poundparsnips,peeledandchopped1GrannySmithapple,peeledandchopped1mediumonion,peeledandchopped1teaspoongroundcoriander3cupswater

1chickenbouilloncube

½cupheavycreamSaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperGarnish¼cupheavycream

1tablespoonfreshlygratedParmesan3tablespoonsroughlychoppedfreshchives,divided1GrannySmithapple,peeled1.Forthesoup,meltthebutterinaheavy-bottomedsaucepan.Whenthebutterhasstoppedfoaming,addtheparsnips,apple,andonion.Sautéuntiltheonionistranslucentandsoft,about5minutes.Addthecoriander,water,andbouilloncube.Bringthesoupuptoagentlesimmer,turndowntheheat,andsimmeruntiltheparsnipsaretenderenoughtobeeasilypiercedwithafork.Removethesoupfromtheheatandwithahand-heldblender,pureethesoup.If

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youwanttouseastandardblendertopureethesoup,youwillneedtoletthesoupcooldownbeforeblending.Afterblendingthesoup,strainthecontentsthroughafine-meshstrainertoremoveanylumps.Thesoupcanbemadeaheaduptothispointandrefrigeratedforseveraldays.Warmgentlybeforecontinuing.2.Stirinthecream,andseasontotastewiththesaltandpepper.Letthesoupgethot,butdonotboil.Adjusttheconsistency,thinningwithalittlewaterifneeded.

3.Forthegarnish,whiptheheavycreamuntilstiffpeaksform.FoldtheParmesanand1tablespoonofthechivesintothewhippedcream.Gratesomeoftheappleintothebottomoffourwarmsoupbowls,andladlethesoupontop.SpoontheParmesancreamontopofthesoup,andgarnishwiththeremaining2tablespoonschives.

MAKES4SERVINGS

Parsnip and Apple Soup, Pear andWalnut SaladwithParmesanBalsamicDressing

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Page 281: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

STUFFEDBELLPEPPERS

4mediumredbellpeppers

¼cupoliveoil½cuproughlychoppedonion

1cupfinelyslicedbuttonmushrooms1zucchini,diced½teaspoondriedoreganoSaltandfreshlygroundpepper2tomatoes,roughlychopped1cuprice,cookeduntilaldenteandcooled½cupwater½chickenorvegetablebouilloncube4slicessmokedbacon,broiledcrispyandchopped1tablespoonfreshbasil,shredded4ouncesmozzarellacheese,diced

2tablespoonsgratedParmesancheese

1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Cutthetopsoffthepeppers,andcleanouttheseedsandmembranes.Ifthepepperswon’tstandup,cutalittlepieceoffthebottomtolevelthem.Placethepeppersonabakingsheet,anddrizzlewiththeoil.Bakefor25minutes,oruntiltheystarttosoften.Removefromtheovenandallowtocool.

2.Pourtheoilfromthepeppersintoafryingpan,andaddtheonions,mushrooms,zucchini,andoregano.Seasonthevegetableswiththesaltandpeppertotaste,andsautéoverhighheatuntiltheystarttosoften.Addthetomatoes,rice,water,andbouilloncube,andsimmerforabout5minutes.Adjusttheseasoning.

3.Foldinthebacon,basil,andmozzarella,anddivideamongthepeppers.SprinkletheParmesanontopofthepeppers,andbakeinthemiddleoftheovenfor15minutes,oruntilthecheesehasmeltedandthefillingishot.

Page 282: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

MAKES4SERVINGS.

Stuffed Bell Peppers, Stuffed Aubergine (StuffedEgglplant)

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PEARANDWALNUTSALADWITHPARMESANBALSAMICDRESSING

Dressing½cupoliveoil¼cupfreshParmesancheese3tablespoonsmincedfreshbasil1teaspoonlemonjuice

2tablespoonsbalsamicvinegar1clovegarlic,crushedSaltandfreshlygroundpepperSalad1headbutterlettuce1teaspoonlemonjuice

1teaspoonoliveoil

1ripepear,peeledandsliced4ouncesgoatcheese,crumbled3tablespoonsroughlychoppedwalnuts,toasted1greenonion,finelychopped1.Forthedressing,mixtogethertheoil,Parmesan,basil,lemonjuice,vinegar,garlic,andsaltandpeppertotaste.Shakeorwhisktoblend.Refrigerateforuptothreedays.2.Forthesalad,washandtearthelettuceintobite-sizepieces,discardingtheouterleaves.Addthelemonjuiceandoliveoil,andtoss.Dividethelettuceamongsixsaladplates,andarrangethepearslices,goatcheese,walnuts,andgreenonionontop.Drizzlethedressingoverthesaladandaroundtheedgesoftheplate.Serveimmediately.

MAKES6SERVINGS

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Page 285: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

STUFFEDAUBERGINE(StuffedEggplant)

This dish brings back fond memories of my days in the Princess of Wales’skitchen. StuffedAubergine, knownas eggplant toAmerican cooks,was one oftheprincess’sfavoritedishes.Moreoftenthannot,she’drequestthatIleaveanextraservingintherefrigeratorforhertoreheatontheweekend.Thatwasallright; this is one of those dishes that seems to improve with age and can beprepared ahead of time. The flavors and textures create a healthy and great-tastinglunchwhenservedalonewithasalad,orasavegetablesidedishservedalongsideagrilledsteak.

2smalleggplants,each6-incheslong4tablespoonsoliveoil,divided1largezucchini1largeorangebellpepper

2ribscelery

½cuproughlychoppedredonionSaltandfreshlygroundpepper1½cupsslicedbuttonmushrooms1largetomato,finelychopped2slicesbacon,cookeduntilcrisp1cupgratedmozzarellacheese1tablespoonchoppedfreshbasil

2tablespoonsgratedParmesancheese1.Preheattheovento350degrees.2.Cuteacheggplantinhalfintotwoequalcylinders.Cutacircleinthewhitefleshoftheeggplantsabout¼inchfromtheskinallthewayround,andabout

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1inchdeep.Scoretheinsideofthecircle(i.e.,maketinycross-cutsintothefleshofthecircleabout½inchdeep).Thismakesiteasiertoscoopoutthefleshoncetheeggplantiscooked.

3.Brushtheeggplantswith2tablespoonsoliveoil,especiallythecuttopandbottom,andbakeonatrayintheovenfor15to20minutes.Turneacheggplantovermidwaythroughcookingsothebottomsdon’tgettoobrown.Whenthefleshfeelssoft,removetheeggplantsfromtheoven,andallowthemtocool.

4.Coarselychopthezucchini,bellpepper,andceleryinto¾-inchcubes.Inaskillet,put2tablespoonsoliveoilonmediumheat.Addthezucchini,bellpepper,celery,redonion,andmushrooms.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andcookuntilthevegetablesstarttosoften.Stirinthetomato,taste,adjustseasoning,andallowthemixturetocool.

5.Finelychopthebacon,dicethemozzarellaintosmallcubes,andaddthesetothecooledvegetablesalongwiththechoppedbasil.

6.Gentlyremovethefleshfromtheinsidesoftheeggplant,takingcaretoleaveabout¼inchonthebottomtocreateashell.Thenchoptheflesh,andaddittothevegetables.Spoonthemixintotheeggplantshells,dividingitamongthefour.SprinklethetopswiththeParmesancheese.

7.Thestuffedeggplantsarenowready,andtheycanbeplacedintheovenfor15minutes,oruntilthefillingishot.Ortheycanberefrigerated,readyforaprincesstoreheatstraightfromtherefrigeratortooven.Servewithasaladorasavegetable.

MAKES4SERVINGS

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POACHEDEGGSSUZETTE

2largerussetpotatoes,about12ounceseach2tablespoonsunsaltedbutterplus3tablespoonsbutter,melted3eggyolks,dividedSaltandfreshlygroundpepper1teaspoonlemonjuice

1teaspoonoliveoil

2cupsspinachleaves,firmlypacked1pinchgratednutmeg1teaspoonwhitewinevinegar1teaspoonsalt2largeeggs

1teaspoonchoppedfreshtarragon

1.Preheattheovento400degrees,andplacearackinthemiddle.Bakethepotatoesfor1hourorlonger,untilslightlysofttothetouch.Removethepotatoesandsliceone-fourthoffthetopofthepotatoeslengthways.Scoopoutthefleshfromthepotatointoalargebowl.Putthepotatoshellsontoabakingsheet.

2.Mashthepotatoesuntilsmooth,adding2tablespoonsbutter,1eggyolk,andsaltandpeppertotaste.Usingapipingbagfittedwithastartip,pipethepotatoesaroundthetopofthepotatoshells,andreturntotheovenfor15minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Preparethefillingwhilethepotatoesarebrowning.

3.Forthefilling,placetheremaining2eggyolksintoametalbowl,orthetoppartofadoubleboiler,overapanofboilingwater.Whisktheyolks,andgraduallyaddthelemonjuiceandtheremaining3tablespoonsmeltedbutter.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste,setaside,andkeepwarm.

4.Heattheoliveoilinafryingpan,andaddthespinach.Sautéthespinachuntilitwilts,andaddthenutmegandthesaltandpeppertotaste.Dividethespinachbetweenthetwopotatoshells,andkeepthemwarm.

5.Bringa2-quartpanofwatertoaboil,addthevinegar,andthe1teaspoonsalt.

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Carefullypoachtheeggsforabout3minutes.Removethemwithaslottedspoon,andplaceontopofthespinachinthepotatoshells.

6.Spoonthesauceovereacheggandsprinklewiththechoppedtarragon.Serveimmediately.

MAKES2SERVINGS

Page 289: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

PEACHPANNACOTTA

1packetunflavoredgelatin

2¼cupsheavycream,divided⅓cupplus1tablespoonsugar¼teaspoonvanillapaste½cupeaudeviedepeches(peachbrandy)

3ripepeaches1tablespoonvanillasugar(seepage76)1teaspoonroughlychoppedfreshmint

6individualramekins

1.Softenthegelatinin¼cupheavycreaminabowl.Bringtheremaining2cupsheavycreamandthesugartoasimmerinalargesaucepansetoverhighheat.Removethepanfromtheheat,addthegelatinmixtothehotcream,andwhisktogetheruntilthegelatinandsugararefullydissolved.Addthevanillapasteandpeachbrandy.Strainthemixtureintosixindividualramekins.Refrigerateovernight,oruntilset.

2.Stoneandpeelthepeaches,anddiceinto¼-inchpieces.Placethepeachesinabowl,addthevanillasugarandmint,andmixgently.

3.Unmoldeachpannacottaontoadessertplate,andgarnishwiththefreshpeaches.

MAKES6SERVINGS

Page 290: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen
Page 291: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

ICEDPRALINEANDAMARETTOSOUFFLÉWITHPOACHEDPEAR

Praline

1teaspoonvegetableoil

1½cupsgranulatedsugar1cupslicedrawalmonds,pecans,hazelnuts,oracombinationofallthreePear1cupgranulatedsugar2cupswater1cinnamonstick

1largeripepear

Soufflé¾cupgranulatedsugar6tablespoonswater

6eggwhites

¼cupamarettoliqueur1½cupsheavycream,whippeduntilstiffpeaksform1.Forthepraline,lightlygreaseabakingsheetwiththevegetableoil.Inaheavy-bottomedsaucepan,meltthesugar,stirringuntilitreachesadeepcaramelcolor.Removethecaramelizedsugarfromtheheat,andaddthenuts.Stirtocombine,andpourthesugarednutsontothegreasedbakingsheet,spreadingthemoutintoathinlayer.Allowtocool.2.Forthepoachedpear,bringthesugar,water,andcinnamonsticktoaboilfor3minutes.Peelandcutthepearinto6equalsegments.Immersethesegmentsinthewarmsyrup,andremovefromtheheat.Allowtocool.

3.Linesix4-ounceramekinswithparchmentpaperontheoutsideoftheramekinandatleast1inchabovethelip.Stapleorusearubberbandtohold

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theparchmentinplace.4.Forthesoufflé,bringthesugarandwatertoarollingboiluntilthemeltedsugarsyrupreachesthe“softballstage”(theconsistencyofcornsyrupisagoodproxy).Whilethesyrupisboiling,whisktheeggwhitesuntilstiff.Carefullypourthehotsyrupontotheeggwhitesslowlyandcontinuewhisking.Foldtheamarettointothewhippedcream,andstiruntilcombined.Placehalfthecooledpralineintoaziplockbag,andpounditwitharollingpintomaketinypieces.Foldabout1cupofthecrushedpralineintothesoufflé.Reservetherestforgarnish.Spoonthesoufflémixintotheramekinsandfreezeforatleast2hours.

5.Oncethesouffléshavefullyfrozen,carefullyremovetheparchmentpaperbeforeservingandplaceeachsouffléonadish.Placeawedgeofpoachedpearnexttothesouffléandsprinkletheplatewithsomeofthecrushedpraline.Breaktheremainingpralineintolargeshardstodecoratethesoufflé.

MAKES6SERVINGS

IcedPralineandAmarettoSoufflé

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Index

Pagenumbersinitalicindicatepageswithillustrations

AAlice,Princess,154Andrassy,Count,50Andrew,Prince,3,13,41,70, 114,129Anne,Princess,49Appetizers  ChilledTomatoandDillMousse   (Fat-FreeVersion),9,193,213  ChilledTomatoandDillMousse   withLobster,9,20,193  CroquesMonsieur,12,17,23  CucumberandMintMousse,52  EggsDrumkilbo,94,95  GleneaglesPâté,18–19,19  HerbedCrepeswithGoatCheese   andMapleSalmon,22–23,23  SausageRolls,23,24  StiltonandPecanSablewith   PoachedPear,12,21,23  StiltonFritterswithCreamy   WalnutDressing,158Armstrong-Jones,Sarah,113,131Ascotboxes,48Ascothorseraces,2,47–49

BBallathieHouseHotel,viiBalmoralCastle,6,108,114

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  beautyof,109–110  Dee,River,109,112–113  foodservedat,112,113  GhilliesBall,113,116  onholidayat,113–115  kitchenandchefsat,110,115  kitchengardenat,110–111  mushroomsat,6–7  Penndoor,110,110  royalcalendar,xii,2,109  shootingparties,111–112  staffat,110  wildlifeat,111Barnes,Nanny,115Beef  BeefCarbonnade,93  BeefCurry-EnglishStyle,172  BeefWellington,54,55  CottagePie,115,122,123–124  GaelicSteaks,25  SteakDiane,125  TenderloinSteaks,withBoursin,   Rosemary,BellPepperSauce,   126,127  TenderloinSteaks,withStilton   andWalnutCrust,Mushroom   CreamSauce,100Berry,John,viiBeverages  IcedCoffee,35,48–49  LemonRefresher,92,102  MulberryGin,44,81  MulledWine,179Bluebottle,86BoxingDay,154–155Breads  EnglishPancakes,71

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  BreadandButterPudding,136,137  BreadSauce,151,162  TraditionalIrishSodaBread,177Britannia,HMY,82,84  CowesWeek,49,84  foodservedon,86,87–89,92  kitchenandchefson,89–92,   90,92  menufor,89  royalcalendar,xii,2  summertimesailing,84–85  tripsaboard,83–84,86–89,91  yachtracing,49,84BuckinghamPalace,4  costsassociatedwith,9  diplomaticreceptions,11–12  foodservedat,6–9,189–190  gardenteaparties,14–16  kitchenandchefsat,5–6  lifeat,xi–xiii,8–9  menusfor,8  royalcalendar,1,2,5  statevisitsandbanquets,8–11,   10,11  teatime,12–14  transportingfood,7

CCakes  BattenburgCake,14,28,30  ChocolateBiscuitCake,13–14,   28,31  chocolatecakes,13–14  ChocolateRoulade“YuleLog”,   176–177,182  ChristmasCake,147,147,152,   178–179

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  EarlGreyTeaCake,32  JamandCreamSponge,28,106  JamandCreamSwissRoll,33  RoyalBirthdayCake,74–75,75  Yulelogs,146,152,154,   176–177,182Carluccio,Antonio,6,124Charles,Prince  atBalmoralCastle,114–115,   116–117  favoritefoodsof,6,193  giftsfor,149  menufor,3  onRiverDee,113  separationfromDiana,185  weddingof,ix–xCheese  CheeseSoufflé,96,97  CroquesMonsieur,12,17,23  FallGreenswithRoastedBeets,   CaramelizedWalnuts,Goat   Cheese,WalnutDressing,202  HerbedCrepeswithGoatCheese   andMapleSalmon,22–23,23  SageDerbyDauphinoise   Potatoes,27  StiltonandPecanSablewith   PoachedPear,12,21,23  StiltonFritterswithCreamy   WalnutDressing,158  SupremeofPheasantStuffedwith   GoatCheese,166  TenderloinSteaks,withStilton   andWalnutCrust,Mushroom   CreamSauce,100Chicken  ChickenandLeekPie,163

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  CurriedChickenPies,164,168Chocolate  AndrassyPudding,50,66–67  ChocolateBiscuitCake,13–14,   28,31  chocolatecakes,13–14  ChocolatePerfectionPie,72–73,73  ChocolateRoulade“YuleLog”,   176–177,182  CoffeeMousse,68  CrathieCrunch,134,135  GlenfiddichChocolateMousse,130  RoyalBirthdayCake,74–75,75  ChristmasCake,147,147,152,   178–179  Christmascelebrations,15,   145–153,150,151,153,154  ChristmasPudding,152,180Cookingtraining,vi–viiiCorgis,xiv,112,152,156CowesWeek,49,84Crepes  CrepesIslandaise,45,67  Eastertraditions,44–45  EnglishPancakes,71  HerbedCrepeswithGoatCheese   andMapleSalmon,22–23,23CrossofSt.George,79CucumberandMintMousse,52

DDee,River,109,112–113Desserts.SeealsoCakes;Icecream; Piesandtarts  AndrassyPudding,50,66–67  BrandySnaps,69,152  BreadandButterPudding,136,137

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  ChristmasPudding,152,180  CoffeeMousse,68  ColdLemonSoufflé,102–103,   103  CrathieCrunch,134,135  CrèmeBrûlée,43,70  EnglishPancakes,71  FramboisesSt.George,47,78,79  GlenfiddichChocolateMousse,   130  GreekYogurtandStrawberry   Cheesecake,127,138  IcedPralineandAmarettoSoufflé   withPoachedPear,193,218,   219  IsleofWightPudding,107  LemonCheese,80  LemonMille-FeuillewithRhubarb   Coulis,76–77,77  PeachPannaCotta,217  PeachPrincess,139  QueenofPuddings,142  ScottishThistleShortbread,113,   131  SteamedSyrupSpongePudding,   168,181  SummerPudding,132,133  TarteTatin,104–105  TraditionalEnglishTrifle,182,183  VeiledFarmer’sDaughter,141  YogurtBrûléewithMangoand   Papaya,105Diana,Princess,188,197  atBalmoralCastle,114–115,   116–117  onBritannia,85  complicatedlifeof,194–198

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  deathof,195–197  deerhuntingof,112  dogsand,46  entertainingatKensingtonPalace,   191–194  favoritefoodsof,9,115,137,188,   192–193,214  friendshipwith,15,115,195,199  giftsfrom,195,196  influenceof,vi  atKensingtonPalace,v,185–195  mangoesand,12  menufor,3  notesfrom,187,188,191,196,   198  PrincessintheKitchen,188  SandringhamHouse,lovefor,155  separationfromCharles,185  weddingof,ix–x  atWindsorCastle,46Dickman,Cyril,157Diplomaticreceptions,11–12DisneyWorld,87DukeofEdinburgh.SeePhilip,Prince

EEastertraditions,44–47,45Eastwood,Clint,193Edinburgh,Dukeof.SeePhilip,PrinceEggs  CarrotandEggRouladewith   MesclunSaladandaMaple   GingerDressing,192,200–201  EggsDrumkilbo,94,95  PoachedEggsenCroûte,111,118,   120  PoachedEggsSuzette,216

Page 300: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

Elizabeth,Queen(QueenMother),3, 85,113,154ElizabethII,Queen  birthdaycelebration,45–46  corgisof,xiv,112,152,156  favoritefoodsof,13–14,31,45–46  giftsfor,12,41,88,146,149  giftsfrom,149  horsesatAscot,48  influenceof,viElizabethII,Queen  menufor,3,26  pancakeday,45  Queen’scarrots,xiii  teatime,xiv,13–14  WindsorCastlefire,38  WindsorHorseShow,49

FFromont,Mark,xiFruit  BalmoralStrawberryJam,143  ColdLemonSoufflé,102–103,   103  FramboisesSt.George,47,78,79  GreekYogurtandStrawberry   Cheesecake,127,138  IcedPralineandAmaretto   SouffléwithPoachedPear,193,   218,219  IsleofWightPudding,107  LemonCheese,80  LemonMille-FeuillewithRhubarb   Coulis,76–77,77  LemonRefresher,92,102  OldEnglishApplePie,140  ParsnipandAppleSoupwith

Page 301: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

   Parmesan-ChiveFoam,204,205  PeachPannaCotta,217  PeachPrincess,139  PearandWalnutSaladwith   ParmesanBalsamicDressing,   204,209  RaspberryIceCream,28,29  RaspberryTartlets,34–35,75  StiltonandPecanSablewith   PoachedPear,12,21,23  SummerPudding,132,133  TarteTatin,104–105  VeiledFarmer’sDaughter,141  YogurtBrûléewithMangoand   Papaya,105Fruitcakes,147,147,152,178–179

GGardenteaparties,14–16Gardner,Anne,109GhilliesBall,113,116Giftsforroyalfamily,12,41,88,146, 149Gloucester,Duchessof,154Goldensyrup,155,175Grandprix,49

HHam  CroquesMonsieur,12,17,23Harry,Prince,6,188,194  atBalmoralCastle,114–115  onBritannia,85  custodyarrangements,194–195  favoritefoodsof,123,142,175,   189,189,190–191  giftsfor,147,148

Page 302: Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen

  JuniorApprentices,190  atKensingtonPalace,187  rabbithunting,112  onRiverDee,113HolyroodPalace,2HomeParkPrivate,42,43,50Hotboxes,111–112Hyams&Cockerton,8

IIcecream  atBuckinghamPalace,189–190  RaspberryIceCream,28,29  VanillaIceCream,65InternationalDrivingGrandPrix,49

JJams  BalmoralStrawberryJam,143  JamandCreamSponge,28,106  JamandCreamSwissRoll,33

KKensingtonPalace,184  entertainingat,191–194  foodservedat,187–191,189,   192–194  lifeat,185–195  menusfor,8

LLamb  LambRaan(IndianLegofLamb),   167  NavarinofLambwithHerbed   Dumplings,168,169  RackofLambwithGarlic,

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   Rosemary,andJuniper,56  RoastSpringLegofLamb,53LifeboatInn,150

MMales,Pete,viiiManatees(seacows),88Margaret,Princess,45Marmite,25Masson,Sandy,112McGradyfamily,ixMenuRoyaltradition,8Menus,3,13,26,89MulberryGin,44,81

NNewYear’sEve,156–157,157

OOrderoftheGarter,47

PPage,Peter,6,8Pancakeday,44–45Parker,Michael,xiParkHouse,145ParsnipandAppleSoupwith Parmesan-ChiveFoam,204,205Pastillagedishes,10–11,10Pheasants  BreastofPheasantwithaPearl   Barley“Risotto”,171  SupremeofPheasantStuffedwith   GoatCheese,166Philip,Prince  atBalmoralCastle,113–114  favoritefoodsof,25,45,67

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  gardensatBalmoralCastle,110  grilling,loveof,114,125,127  InternationalDrivingGrandPrix,   49  menufor,3  yachtracing,84,86Piesandtarts,sweet  ChocolatePerfectionPie,72–73,73  MincePies,152,174,182  OldEnglishApplePie,140  RaspberryTartlets,34–35,75  TarteTatin,104–105  TreacleTart,175Piesandtarts,savory  ChickenandLeekPie,163  CottagePie,115,122,123–124  CurriedChickenPies,164,168Pine,Robert,115,115,147Plumpuddings,152

QQueen’scarrots,xiiiQuick,David,81

RRoyalAirForce,viiiRoyalAscothorseraces,2,47–49Royalcalendar,xii,1–2,5,37,109,145RoyalHouseholdSocialClub,40, 152–153Royallife,vRoyalwarrant,7RoyalWindsorHorseShow,1,49–50

SSaladdressings  CarrotandEggRouladewith

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   MesclunSaladandaMaple   GingerDressing,192,200–201  ChiveCreamDressing,52  FrenchDressing,93  PearandWalnutSaladwith   ParmesanBalsamicDressing,   204,209  PureedHerbDressing,192,215Salads  AvocadoandHeartsofPalm   Salad,201  CarrotandEggRouladewith   MesclunSaladandaMaple   GingerDressing,192,200–201  FallGreenswithRoastedBeets,   CaramelizedWalnuts,Goat   Cheese,WalnutDressing,202  PearandWalnutSaladwith   ParmesanBalsamicDressing,   204,209  PressedVegetableTerrine,203  SmokedSalmonandCrabmeat   Custards,212–213SandringhamHouse,144  beautyof,145,155  BoxingDayat,154–155  Christmasat,145–153,150,151,   153,154  foodservedat,146,151–152,153,   153,154–155  kitchenandchefsat,145,146  NewYear’sEve,156–157,157  royalcalendar,xii,1,145  shootingparties,154–155Sarah,DuchessofYork,13,14,30, 155,190Sauces

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  BrandySauce,179  BreadSauce,151,162  CreamWalnutDressing,158  DillCreamSauce,64  DillHollandaise,128  GravadLaxwithSauceSuedoise,   121  PiquantDillandLimeSauce,162  TenderloinSteaks,withBoursin,   Rosemary,BellPepperSauce,   126,127  TenderloinSteaks,withStilton   andWalnutCrust,Mushroom   CreamSauce,100SausageRolls,23,24SavoyHotel,viii,ix–xScrabsterHarbor,85Scones,xiii  RoyalTeaScones,xiv,75Seafood  ChilledTomatoandDillMousse   withLobster,9,20,193  CurriedSalmonKedgeree,111,117,   118  EggsDrumkilbo,94,95  GleneaglesPâté,18–19,19  GoujonsofSalmonwith   TyrolienneSauce,113,129  GravadLaxwithSauceSuedoise,   121  HaddockSt.Germain,101  HerbedCrepeswithGoatCheese   andMapleSalmon,22–23,23  LobsterThermidor,210,211  PoachedSalmonwithDill   Hollandaise,128  SalmonenCroûte,58

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  SalmonFishcakes,118,119  SmokedSalmonandCrabmeat   Custards,212–213  SoleMurat,57Shootingparties,111–112,154–155Sidebars  Ascot,48  BeatRetreat,90  BeetRed,192  ChristmasBall,15  ChristmasPudding,152  DianaattheCastle,46  FeedingtheCooks,150  GiftFromaQueen,149  HollywoodatHome,193  HuntressDiana,112  JuniorApprentices,190  FromKitchentoTable,7  LeftoversforDinner,153  Maids-a-Milking,42–43,43  MeetingaPrincess,115  OfMiceandMen,87  NotYourTypicalFruitcake,147,147  PrincessintheKitchen,188  ProvisioningtheKitchen,41  RoyalGifts,88  RoyalPolitesse,12  SneakAttack,148  WavesOutsideandInside,91  WhattoWear,155  WhatWilltheQueenEat?,8  WhoFootstheBill?,9  WildBalmoral,111  WindsorAblaze,38  WindsorMulberries,44Smith,Arthur,148Soufflés

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  accidentatWindsorCastle,41–42  AndrassyPudding,50,66–67  CheeseSoufflé,96,97  ColdLemonSoufflé,102–103,103  IcedPralineandAmarettoSoufflé   withPoachedPear,193,218,219  SpinachSoufflé,26–27Soupsandstews  BeefCurry-EnglishStyle,172  IrishStew,170  NavarinofLambwithHerbed   Dumplings,168,169  ParsnipandAppleSoupwith   Parmesan-ChiveFoam,204,205  SpringAsparagusSoupwithDill,51  VenisonStew,165Statevisitsandbanquets,8–11,10,11Stews.SeeSoupsandstewsSt.George,47,79St.Stephen’sDay,154Superman,85,85

TTarts.SeePiesandtartsTeatime,xiv,12–14Transportingfood,7,48–49,125Treacle,155Turkey  RoastTurkey,160,161

VVanillaSugar,76Veal  PojarskiSmitane,98,99Vegetables  AvocadoandHeartsofPalmSalad,   201

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  BasmatiRicePilaf,173Vegetables  BreastofPheasantwithaPearl   Barley“Risotto”,171  CarrotandEggRouladewith   MesclunSaladandaMaple   GingerDressing,192,200–201  ChickenandLeekPie,163  ChilledTomatoandDillMousse   (Fat-FreeVersion),9,193,213  ChilledTomatoandDillMousse   withLobster,9,20,193  ChouxálaCherbourg,55,59  CottagePie,115,122,123–124  FallGreenswithRoastedBeets,   CaramelizedWalnuts,Goat   Cheese,WalnutDressing,202  HaddockSt.Germain,101  MarinatedPortabellaMushrooms,   124,127  MashedPotatoes,159,168  Normandy-StyleBoulangère   Potatoes,61,62  PetitPoisálaFrançais,61,63  PommesFondantes,64  PressedVegetableTerrine,203  RoastedSpringVegetables,60,61  SageDerbyDauphinoise   Potatoes,27  SpinachandRedPepperRoulade   withShavedParmesan,208–209  SpinachSoufflé,26–27  SpringAsparagusSoup   withDill,51  StuffedAubergine(Stuffed   Eggplant),190,206,214–215  StuffedBellPeppers,206,207

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WWhybrew,Paul,38William,Prince,6,188,194  atBalmoralCastle,114–115  onBritannia,85  chocolateeggfor,46  custodyarrangements,194–195  favoritefoodsof,123,142,189,   189,190–191  giftsfor,147,148  JuniorApprentices,190  atKensingtonPalace,187  rabbithunting,112  onRiverDee,113WindsorCastle,36  beautyof,37  dairyat,42–43,43  Eastertraditions,44–47,45  fireat,38  foodservedat,40–41  kitchenandchefsat,39–40,41–42  mangoesat,41  mulberrytreesat,44  OrderoftheGarter,47  royalcalendar,1,2,37  springtimeat,44  Windsorweekends,40–42WindsorGreatPark,42WindsorHorseShow,1,49–50WoodFarm,145,155,156,156,185

YYachtracing,49,84Young,John,110Yulelogs,146,152,154,176–177,182


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