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Edge 3D Printer V.2

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Edge 3D Printer V.2
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(/) let's make Explore (/tag/type-id/) Create (/about/submit.jsp) Contests (/contest/) Community (/community/) share what you make > (/editInstructable/) (/id/intel/) (/tag/type-id/category-workshop/channel-gardening/?sort=FEATURED) (/tag/type-id/category-outside/channel-bikes/?sort=FEATUR (/tag/type-id/category-technology/chan 3d Printer Buyers Guide Full Color & Cost-Effective Options Get the Latest Guide to 3D Printing (/) Login (/account/login) | Sign Up (/account/gopro?sourcea=header&sourceaUrl=/id/Edge-3D-Printer-V20/?ALLSTEPS)
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Page 1: Edge 3D Printer V.2

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let's makeExplore (/tag/type-id/) Create (/about/submit.jsp) Contests (/contest/) Community (/community/)

share what you make >

(/editInstructable/) (/id/intel/) (/tag/type-id/category-workshop/channel-gardening/?sort=FEATURED)(/tag/type-id/category-outside/channel-bikes/?sort=FEATURED)(/tag/type-id/category-technology/channel-robots/)

3d Printer Buyers GuideFull Color & Cost-Effective Options Get the LatestGuide to 3D Printing

(/)

Login (/account/login) | Sign Up (/account/gopro?sourcea=header&sourceaUrl=/id/Edge-3D-Printer-V20/?ALLSTEPS)

Page 2: Edge 3D Printer V.2

Hello, In this instructable I will show you how to make a very low cost, lightweight

3D printer. This 3D printer is about the same size of the printrbot simple, but has a

bigger print bed at 6x 5.5x 4 Inches, weighs less than the printrbot simple at about

5.1 pounds, the printrbot simple weighs around 7 pounds.

New instructions should be much easier to follow and I've included more photos.

***Please vote for this Instructable in the CNC challenge (upper right

corner)! I'm 13 and I designed and built this myself so please, if you like this

instructable favourite, vote and comment. It encouages me to keep doing

what I do. If you really want to help me, please share this project with your

friends that might like this instructable***

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FIL/BZP6/I8CVWM5L/FILBZP6I8CVWM5L.LARGE.jpg)

About This Instructable

License:19,970 views

379 favorites

appleman123987

Page 3: Edge 3D Printer V.2

This is the second version of my 3D printer. I've made a V2.0 because my last 3d

printer instructable was very popular, receiving over 125 000 views and almost

1500 likes! If you want to check out 1.0 here is the link:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Edge-3D-Printer-an...

(http://www.instructables.com/id/Edge-3D-Printer-an-affordable-open-source-3D-

print/)

Remove these ads by Signing Up (/account/gopro?sourcea=removeads&nxtPgName=Edge+3D+Printer+V.2.0&nxtPg=/id/Edge-

3D-Printer-V20/?ALLSTEPS)

Step 1: Parts and Tools

(/member/appleman123987/)

(/member/appleman123987/)

Next Level Prototypes(http://nextlevelprototypes.com/Home/)

Follow

Just a 13 year old maker, hacker andinventor. Instagram: zachsousa123987

280

Bio:

(/id/Edge-3D-Printer-an-affordable-open-source-3D-print)

(/id/Planterbot-The-Plant-Monitoring-Robot)

(/id/Single-Servo-Robotic-Gripper)

More by appleman123987

CNC (/tag/type-id/category-technology/keyw ord-

cnc/)

3D (/tag/type-id/category-technology/keyw ord-3d/)

3D printer (/tag/type-id/category-

technology/keyw ord-3d+printer/)

edge (/tag/type-id/category-technology/keyw ord-

edge/)

appleman123987 (/tag/type-id/category-

technology/keyw ord-appleman123987/)

Arduino (/tag/type-id/category-

technology/keyw ord-arduino/)

FDM (/tag/type-id/category-technology/keyw ord-

Tags:

Page 4: Edge 3D Printer V.2

Related

See More (/tag/type-id/?q=)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F9Q/C9MC/I8CVWOAC/F9QC9MCI8CVWOAC.LARGE.jpg)

fdm/)

Stepper motors (/tag/type-id/category-

technology/keyw ord-stepper+motors/)

RAMPS (/tag/type-id/category-technology/keyw ord-

ramps/)

electronic (/tag/type-id/category-

technology/keyw ord-electronic/)

Edge 3D Printer 1.0 - an

affordable open source

3D printer!

(http://www.instructables.com/id/Edge-

3D-Printer-an-affordable-Make a super cheap 3D

printer using recycled

parts

(http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-

a-super-cheap-3D-printer-DIY delta 3D printer using

low cost recycled parts

(http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-

delta-3D-printer-using-

low-cost-recycled-parts/?Single Servo Robotic

Gripper

(http://www.instructables.com/id/Single-

Servo-Robotic-Gripper/?

utm_source=base&utm_medium=related-Arduino Rover

(http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-

Rover/?

utm_source=base&utm_medium=related-

instructables&utm_campaign=related_test)

Page 5: Edge 3D Printer V.2

Parts:

GT2 pulley x2: http://tinyurl.com/qc4m6ez (http://tinyurl.com/qc4m6ez)

GT2 Belt (about 2m): http://tinyurl.com/nr6wn25 (http://tinyurl.com/nr6wn25)

USB type b to type b extender x1: http://tinyurl.com/ohcmybf

(http://tinyurl.com/ohcmybf)

DC power socket x1: http://tinyurl.com/nwe8lv5 (http://tinyurl.com/nwe8lv5)

LM8UU Linear Bearing x4: http://tinyurl.com/n98ehwv (http://tinyurl.com/n98ehwv)

Acrylic x3 8"x12" (You can also buy it from a local plastics shop and it is about the

same price as aliexpress): http://tinyurl.com/k4bzjge (http://tinyurl.com/k4bzjge)

30mm Fan x2: http://tinyurl.com/nqxgg8d (http://tinyurl.com/nqxgg8d)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F9D/H4M5/I8CVWOGU/F9DH4M5I8CVWOGU.LARGE.jpg)

Page 6: Edge 3D Printer V.2

3d printer wiring pack: http://tinyurl.com/o8mont4 (http://tinyurl.com/o8mont4)

Direct Drive gear x1: http://tinyurl.com/on5sr2p (http://tinyurl.com/on5sr2p)

608 bearings x1 lot of 5: http://tinyurl.com/kqo2lpg (http://tinyurl.com/kqo2lpg)

M3 8mm screws x1 lot of 50: http://tinyurl.com/kz48fcp (http://tinyurl.com/kz48fcp)

5mm to 8mm coupler x1: http://tinyurl.com/pmwtn8r (http://tinyurl.com/pmwtn8r)

SC8UU linear bearing x2: http://tinyurl.com/pp9jquw (http://tinyurl.com/pp9jquw)

1m PTFE tube (bowden tube) x1: http://tinyurl.com/lowr6uq

(http://tinyurl.com/lowr6uq)

Arduino Mega and RAMPS board kit x1: http://tinyurl.com/lzozwlw

(http://tinyurl.com/lzozwlw)

Endstops x3: http://tinyurl.com/q47m5cq (http://tinyurl.com/q47m5cq)

Nema 17 motors x1 lot: http://tinyurl.com/njwgj4l (http://tinyurl.com/njwgj4l)

Ceramic Hotend: http://tinyurl.com/plbysqu (http://tinyurl.com/plbysqu) You can use

an all metal one but you must have a fan to cool it down or it will melt the 3D printed

mount

Smooth Rods: 1272T38 Mcmaster Carr part #.

Threaded Rod: Home depot 5/16 inch threaded rod and a nut that screws onto the

rod

Tools:

Laser Cutter

3D Printer and filament or buy the parts from 3dhubs.com

Files

Soldering Iron and Solder

Computer with Arduino IDE, Pronterface and Slicer software

Page 7: Edge 3D Printer V.2

Step 2: Laser Cut and 3D Print Parts

Laser cut and 3D print these Files:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:767555 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:767555)

Step 3: Mount Motors and Bearings to the Acrylic

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FK0/DI3F/I8CVWQ4N/FK0DI3FI8CVWQ4N.LARGE.jpg)

Page 8: Edge 3D Printer V.2

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FW3/J6KO/I8CVWQ8L/FW3J6KOI8CVWQ8L.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FWO/P6ZD/I8CVWQ8M/FWOP6ZDI8CVWQ8M.LARGE.jpg)

Edge 3D Printer V.2.0 by appleman123987 (/member/appleman123987/)

Collection I Made it!

Vote!

Download (/id/Edge-3D-Printer-V20/?download=pdf) 17 Steps

Favorite Share

(/id/Edge-3D-Printer-V20/)

Page 9: Edge 3D Printer V.2

Using the M3 10mm screws mount the Nema 17 stepper motor to the main acrylic

piece. This is the piece that has the most mounting holes. Do this for both the both

the x and z motors. Now mount the SC8UU bearings. To do this, push M3 25mm

bolts through the four mounting holes, put the bearing on top of the acrylic, push

the bolts through the acrylic piece and add nuts and tighten them until they can't

wobble.

Step 4: Wire Motors to the RAMPS board(http://cdn.instructables.com/F2N/POK9/I8CVWQ8N/F2NPOK9I8CVWQ8N.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FT5/HHBF/I8CVWS0E/FT5HHBFI8CVWS0E.LARGE.jpg)

Page 10: Edge 3D Printer V.2

In this step, we wire the stepper motors to the controller board. Do this by plugging

the motor cable into the connector board. On the board, there are headers that you

connect the cable to. Don't worry about polarity: this won't affect the motor, it will

just spin in reverse which you can invert in the firmware.

Step 5: De-solder USB-B and Mount it to the Acrylic Side

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FQT/GPS0/I8CVWSC4/FQTGPS0I8CVWSC4.LARGE.jpg)

Page 11: Edge 3D Printer V.2

Extend arduino's USB connector by desoldering the type b connector and just

adding wires to each of the pins bringing the wires to the connector. It sounds

complicated, but it is really simple.

Step 6: Wire the Rest of the Connections

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FNN/EDWZ/I8CVWQ8O/FNNEDWZI8CVWQ8O.LARGE.jpg)

Page 12: Edge 3D Printer V.2

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FIF/39FQ/I8CVWSIL/FIF39FQI8CVWSIL.LARGE.jpg)

Page 13: Edge 3D Printer V.2

Use the image provided to wire the rest of the connections.

Connect both of the red wires from the hotend to D10 (the screw terminal) and +.

Again the polarity does not matter at this moment because the hotend is just

shorting out a flame proof resistor to heat up. Then wire the thermistor wires to T0

on the board. The polarity also does not matter on this one because it is a resistor.

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F0P/KYHA/I8CVWSRY/F0PKYHAI8CVWSRY.LARGE.jpg)

Page 14: Edge 3D Printer V.2

Step 7: Couple the Z Motor Shaft to the Threaded Rod

Couple the Z motor shaft to the Z motor rod using the coupler.

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FZJ/IXKG/I8CVWTD8/FZJIXKGI8CVWTD8.LARGE.jpg)

Page 15: Edge 3D Printer V.2

Step 8: Make the Extruder

Mount the part called "current extruder" to the motor connected to the extruder

motor driver on the RAMPS board. Now, push the direct drive gear onto the motor

shaft and secure it by screwing in the setscrew, then add the 625ZZ bearing onto

the circular mount next to the direct drive gear.

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FKD/ZGNH/I8CVWUK9/FKDZGNHI8CVWUK9.LARGE.jpg)

Page 16: Edge 3D Printer V.2

Step 9: Mount Power Jack

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FYK/9MB0/I8CVWWAT/FYK9MB0I8CVWWAT.LARGE.jpg)

Page 17: Edge 3D Printer V.2

Mount the power jack on the back acrylic piece (the one with the maple leaf on it).

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FCF/8DD1/I8CVWUVK/FCF8DD1I8CVWUVK.LARGE.jpg)

Page 18: Edge 3D Printer V.2

Step 10: Build the Enclosure

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FFM/OGVD/I8CVWW02/FFMOGVDI8CVWW02.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FHU/SVFG/I8CVWW0R/FHUSVFGI8CVWW0R.LARGE.jpg)

Page 19: Edge 3D Printer V.2

Route all of the wiring from step 10 through the opening in the top piece (near the Z

motor) Glue the ramps board to the bottom piece using hot glue.

You can now assemble the whole enclosure with some of the M3 screws and nuts.

DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. If you do the acrylic will eventually crack that's what

happened to my acrylic so keep that in mind while tightening the screws. The

enclosure comes together like a puzzle and there should be only one possible way

to put it together.

Step 11: Build X-axis

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FOF/L0LR/I8CVWW23/FOFL0LRI8CVWW23.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FYE/9LSI/I8CVWYYR/FYE9LSII8CVWYYR.LARGE.jpg)

Page 20: Edge 3D Printer V.2

Glue the endstop for the x axis to the left side of the top acrylic piece in between

the two SC8UU bearings. Mount the 3d printed X axis part where the x axis motor

is. Then press-mount the two 625zz bearings onto the 3D printed piece.

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FGE/W084/I8CVWZ0Q/FGEW084I8CVWZ0Q.LARGE.jpg)

Page 21: Edge 3D Printer V.2

Step 12: Z-Axis

To start the Z-axis, mount the Z-stabilizer piece to the primary Z motor (the motor at

the back of the printer) with some M3 10mm bolts. Then push the two Z smooth

rods through the two parallel holes in front of the Z motor.

Step 13: Y Axis

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F28/CGH6/I8CVXN23/F28CGH6I8CVXN23.LARGE.jpg)

Page 22: Edge 3D Printer V.2

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F12/4G47/I8CVXOHH/F124G47I8CVXOHH.LARGE.jpg)

Page 23: Edge 3D Printer V.2

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FME/WLLE/I8CVXQ08/FMEWLLEI8CVXQ08.LARGE.jpg)

Page 24: Edge 3D Printer V.2

To make the Y axis start by mounting the Y axis stepper motor to the part called

"latest z axis part" and putting the GT2 pulley on the motor shaft and tighten the

setscew to secure it onto the shaft. Then press fit the Y axis rods into the 8mm

holes on the side of the part.

For The Extruder Mount: To start the extruder mount, slide in the LM8UU

bearings into the bearing holes ( The 16mm holes) and use super glue or JB weld

to make sure that they wont slide out of place. After the bearings are in place,

mount the ceramic hotend into the hole at the bottom of the 3D printed part and

again use JB weld to secure it in.

Continuing the Rest of the Y Axis: Slide the extruder mount's bearings through

the rods attached to the "latest z axis part" and slide the "latest Y end cap" onto the

Y axis smooth rods. Now fit the GT2 belt through the rectangular holes on the

extruder mount. Then, loosely fit the end of the GT2 belt through the rectangular

hole in the back of the "latest y axis end cap". Finally add the 608zz bearing into

the rectangular hole and put the whole assembly ontop of the threaded Z axis rods,

making sure that the one of the threaded rods goes through the 608zz bearing.

Now you can add the Y axis end stop, currently I don't have a mount for it so you

will have to just superglue it making sure that it clicks when the extruder assembly is

at its minimum point.

Step 14: Power Supply

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F15/8ZJU/I8CVXQ54/F158ZJUI8CVXQ54.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FRQ/BX0Z/I8CVXQ55/FRQBX0ZI8CVXQ55.LARGE.jpg)

Page 25: Edge 3D Printer V.2

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FWI/44OT/I8CVXKYG/FWI44OTI8CVXKYG.LARGE.jpg)

Page 26: Edge 3D Printer V.2

You need a way to power the 3d printer of course! A really cheap and simple

power supply is an ATX power supply from a computer so if you have an old

computer power supply laying around you can put it to good use. To use it you

must solder the green wire (Power Good) to any ground wire (Black wire) these

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FCN/48GA/I8CVXL3Z/FCN48GAI8CVXL3Z.LARGE.jpg)

Page 27: Edge 3D Printer V.2

wires are normally used to detect if the motherboard of the computer is connected

to the power supply so if you don't solder those wires together the power supply will

not turn on.

Then wire any yellow wire (+12v) to the voltage in connector on the RAMPS board

and any ground wire to the negative input connector. An alternative to this is

ordering a laptop power supply from the internet. the laptop power supply MUST be

able to provide at least 5AMPs at 12 volts.

Step 15: Program Arduino

Download the Marlin firmware here: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F16/7CZM/I8CVXLRL/F167CZMI8CVXLRL.LARGE.jpg)

Page 28: Edge 3D Printer V.2

Then put the Marlin folder into your libraries folder under arduino. Do this by going

into Documents --> Arduino--> Libraries and place the marlin folder into the

libraries folder and rename the marlin folder to "Marlin" or anything without spaces

or non-ASCII character.

Then open Marlin_for_edge.ino and compile it. If there is an error make sure you

have the right board selected (Mega 2560) and the correct serial port selected.

Step 16: Calibration

To calibrate your printer find this line in marlin's "Configuration.h" folder:

// default settings

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80, 80, 2618, 90}

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F1X/B1JB/I8CVXM1H/F1XB1JBI8CVXM1H.LARGE.jpg)

Page 29: Edge 3D Printer V.2

#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE

#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION

#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3000

#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000

Once you find this part, open Printrun Pronterface or whatever your favourite 3D

printer controller is. Then having some calipers handy, press the move 10 units

button (It should have a 10 on it) and measure the actual distance that your printer

moved and write down that number for each axis.

Once you have the number of mm that your printer moved for each axis (for

example 8 instead of 10mm), go into the code and find the default axis steps per

mm. Use this formula to find out the new steps per mm :

S = (OS x SD) / RD

Where S= The correct step amount; the number that we are trying to find.

OS = The old steps per mm in our case this is 80.

SD = The number of mm's that the printer thinks that it moved in our case, 10mm.

RD = The actual distance that you wrote down for each axis

So if our 3d printer moves 8mm/10mm and our old steps per mm is 80 it will =

(80 x 10) / 8 = 100

So our new steps per mm = 100. If that is the number for the x axis replace the first

number in the steps per unit line of code (we replace the first number because in

the array the pattern is X,Y,Z,E).

Do this for all axes and yor 3d printer is calibrated.

Step 17: Slicing and How to Use

Page 30: Edge 3D Printer V.2

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F0O/AABB/I8CVXM7U/F0OAABBI8CVXM7U.LARGE.jpg)

Page 31: Edge 3D Printer V.2

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F2T/OF1N/I8CVXM7V/F2TOF1NI8CVXM7V.LARGE.jpg)

Page 32: Edge 3D Printer V.2

We have a be nice comment policy.

Please be positive and constructive. I Made it! Add Images Make Comment

(/member/stewe951/)

43 seconds ago Reply

Here are the slicing settings that I currently use: (Use images)

These also work if you use them in Slic3r or any other slicer, I just prefer Cura

because it is fast and accurate.

To actually print something from the printer download an STL file from a site like

youmagine or thingiverse. Once you have downloaded an STL file you can drag the

file into your slicer or choice and click "Export Gcode" and save it to your desktop.

To control the printer I like Printrun pronterface (

http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ ). Once it is downloaded you can select "open"

and select your G-code that you wnat to print. Connect your printer using a usb

cable and press the "connect" button in pronterface. You are now connected to

your printer and now you can press print. It will take a few minutes to heat up.

When it is completely heated up it will start homing all axes.

1-40 of49

Next » (http://www.instructables.com/id/Edge-3D-Printer-V20/?&sort=ACTIVE&limit=40&offset=40#DISCUSS)

stewe951 (/member/stewe951/)

May you please add me to the list for the "Kit". I would love to do this. I am also 13

and would like to start in 3D printing.

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FNV/5SX4/I8CVXM7Z/FNV5SX4I8CVXM7Z.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FHX/T252/I8CVXM7X/FHXT252I8CVXM7X.LARGE.jpg)

Page 33: Edge 3D Printer V.2

(/member/jfgilmore/)

8 hours ago Reply

(/member/appleman123987/)

6 hours ago Reply

(/member/jfgilmore/)

6 hours ago Reply

(/member/appleman123987/)

3 minutes ago Reply

(/member/BrendanC1/)

3 hours ago Reply

(/member/Foxtrot70/)

4 hours ago Reply

jfgilmore (/member/jfgilmore/)

I'd like to make you the same deal as nightman69...

appleman123987 (/member/appleman123987/) (author) jfgilmore

Great! I've added you to the list of people that want

kits.

jfgilmore (/member/jfgilmore/) appleman123987

Any idea how long before you can ship?

appleman123987 (/member/appleman123987/) (author) jfgilmore

If I order the parts this week, it will take four weeksto get to me then I'll have to ship it out. I'll print theparts before I get the electronics so I can ship the

kits as soon as possible.

BrendanC1 (/member/BrendanC1/)

I loved your first instrtuctable. This one is even better! I'm 14 now, and I've built a

3d printer, but I could never INVENT one. Really good job!

Foxtrot70 (/member/Foxtrot70/)

An exceptional Instructable! An optional accessory you might look at would be tomake the printer head detachable so as to interchange with an optional LASER

cutter head and/or CNC milling head. Keep up the great work you are doing. PSplease add me to your perspective kits purchasers list.

Page 34: Edge 3D Printer V.2

(/member/Vettel/)

4 hours ago Reply

(/member/Vettel/)

4 hours ago Reply

(/member/daveselinger/)

6 hours ago Reply

(/member/Bill+Papadimas/)

8 hours ago Reply

Vettel (/member/Vettel/)

video please!

Vettel (/member/Vettel/)

Video of its in work please!??!!????????

daveselinger (/member/daveselinger/)

Great job. I love the attention to detail.

Bill Papadimas (/member/Bill+Papadimas/)

Mc-Master Carr declined my order so I bought those rods:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Brand-New-SS304-Sta...

(http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Brand-New-SS304-Stainless-Steel-Round-Bar-OD-8mm-DIY-Hardware-Round-Rods-Pole/32279687114.html?spm=0.0.0.0.CIqjyc)

I'm greek so I couldn't buy from home-depot so I bought this rod:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HS7WHDG/ref=oh...

(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HS7WHDG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

But I still can't understand what nut i need:

will this nut work?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HS7WHDG/ref=oh...(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HS7WHDG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?

ie=UTF8&psc=1)

samern (/member/samern/)

Page 35: Edge 3D Printer V.2

(/member/samern/)

8 hours ago Reply

(/member/tetilley/)

9 hours ago Reply

(/member/nliwilson/)

10 hours ago Reply

(/member/rickb928/)

17 hours ago Reply

(/member/pruthwiraj/)

22 hours ago Reply

(/member/Captain+Data/)

yesterday Reply

I would love to also see your configuration file (configuration.h). One thing that

might be useful is to bundle the software package with instructions on how toflash the RAMPS board and make that part of the downloadable things for this (oryou can park it on Thingiverse too).

tetilley (/member/tetilley/)

nliwilson (/member/nliwilson/)

Really excellent. Well done. :)

rickb928 (/member/rickb928/)

What a nice design. I'm not sure I like the epoxy, but that's what I would do rather

than figure out the elegant solution to the last 10%. I'm looking at your BOM andthe STL files. Very nice work!!

pruthwiraj (/member/pruthwiraj/)

Excellent

Captain Data (/member/Captain+Data/)

I'm looking into ordering the 3d printed parts from 3dhubs.com. Are the printedparts in mm, cm, or inches?

appleman123987 (/member/appleman123987/) (author) Captain Data

Page 36: Edge 3D Printer V.2

(/member/appleman123987/)

22 hours ago Reply

(/member/dahoomi28/)

yesterday Reply

(/member/appleman123987/)

22 hours ago Reply

(/member/printrbot932/)

yesterday Reply

(/member/appleman123987/)

22 hours ago Reply

(/member/faiq.m.arif/)

yesterday Reply

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yesterday Reply

They are in mm.

dahoomi28 (/member/dahoomi28/)

go ?

appleman123987 (/member/appleman123987/) (author) dahoomi28

?

printrbot932 (/member/printrbot932/)

You're 13? Wow this would have been a great ibl know-matter how old u whereThad fact that u r so young just makes it that much cooler.i followed and faved I

hope u continue to post more truly great instructables

appleman123987 (/member/appleman123987/) (author) printrbot932

Thanks!

faiq.m.arif (/member/faiq.m.arif/)

how long does the smooth rod and the threaded rod need to be?

sholz (/member/sholz/)

Wow, this looks very detailed! Good work! A picture of sample-printings would beawesome:D

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promake (/member/promake/)

nice one

promake (/member/promake/) promake

its very nice

JavaProgrammer (/member/JavaProgrammer/)

I know people have asked this already, but could you please post some pics of

examples printed with this machine? the resolution and such can be veryimportant.

appleman123987 (/member/appleman123987/) (author) JavaProgrammer

I will post pictures of some prints after I unclog theextruder.

thequara (/member/thequara/)

Sorry for the spelling horror in the last part of my post... Little iPhone, big fingers,

too much hurry!

thequara (/member/thequara/)

Nice. Detail in the directions is pretty good! For somebody looking to learn and

understand what a project like this entails, great resource. The only constructivecriticism I would offer (take it or leave it) is A. Maybe show an example ofsomething you printed with it. Folks looking to build their own vs buy need to

evaluate if it will meet their needs or expectations. B. Maybe offer ideas for howto make or get the parts that need to be 3D printer... A lot of filks BUILDING aprinter din't yet have access to one. But overall great job!

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2 days ago Reply

PierreF2 (/member/PierreF2/)

hello, thanks for your sharing, very good job :)i think you missed the 2 blue part of the plate for the x axis on thinkiverse, can you

add them ? thanks!

chuynator98 (/member/chuynator98/)

noice work m8

Lectric Wizard (/member/Lectric+Wizard/)

Very nicely done! Looks like it was built by a professional. You will do well in life,young sir!!

appleman123987 (/member/appleman123987/) (author) Lectric Wizard

Thanks!

lnm2525 (/member/lnm2525/)

You're a pretty cool 13-year old! I've been reading many instructions and yours byfar is the easiest to read and very organized. Good idea on including all of yourlinks. You should be a college professor one day.

appleman123987 (/member/appleman123987/) (author) lnm2525

Thank you so much for the compliment!

JavaProgrammer (/member/JavaProgrammer/)

very cool, but how much does the whole thing cost with ordering the 3d partsonline?

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(/member/appleman123987/)

2 days ago Reply

(/member/JavaProgrammer/)

2 days ago Reply

(/member/appleman123987/)

2 days ago Reply

We have a be nice comment policy.

Please be positive and constructive. I Made it! Add Images Make Comment

appleman123987 (/member/appleman123987/) (author) JavaProgrammer

Ordering the 3D printed parts online can cost quite a

bit of money. If enough people want, I can sell the 3Dprinted parts for cheap.

JavaProgrammer (/member/JavaProgrammer/) appleman123987

I might be interested in that. could you do a quickcount and give a rough estimate of the total cost of theparts and the 3d printed parts from you counting

shipping? I know that's a lot. just an educated guess.$100, $150, $300?

appleman123987 (/member/appleman123987/) (author) JavaProgrammer

The parts from Aliexpress cost $134.88 US (includingshipping) so that's everything except the laser cutparts and the 3D printed parts. I could probably do

$25 for all 3D printed parts. Not sure about theshipping. That's just a quick guess.

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