Edible San Diego - Spring 2012 Issue

Spring 2012

CONTENTS

Publishers’ Note 2

Notable edibles 4

iN seasoN iNterview: Chef olivier bioteau 8

City farmers Nursery: a model of urbaN homesteadiNg 12

loCally growN Programs 17

CaN-CaN CoCktail ClassiC wiNNers 18

a New kiNd of CommuNity suPPorted agriCulture 21

the Chef as farmer 25

shePherdiNg a New floCk at liviNg earth raNCh 32

at teri, a buddiNg edible laNdsCaPe Nourishes more thaN diets 36

eat Now | PlaNt Now 40

edible review: the edible froNt yard 43

resourCes & advertisers 45

farmers’ markets 49

spring 2012 edible San Diego 1

Photo: Riley Davenport

Get dirty.My peach tree is blossoming so rambunctiously and the bees are so happily buzzing about that I can barely stand to tend to the business at hand. I’m eager to rip out my tired winter garden and plant for summer. And now I could easily expand my ambitions and add in a hive for those bees, some chickens (they would help keep the bugs in check after all) and a goat or two, thanks to the valient efforts of

a few tireless individuals, some dedicated organizations and a lot of concerned citizens.

As has been widely reported by now, the City of San Diego has joined other forward-thinking cities (San Francisco, Oakland, Seattle and Chicago amongst others) in creating more progressive urban agriculture ordinances. It is so heartening to see these changes happening across the country and while San Diego may not lead the pack, at least we are close to the forefront of this positive, common sense movement. Growing food to feed ourselves is a good thing—a healthy, delicious pastime for some but a necessary part of a healthy diet for others.

Now community gardens will be allowed on private property without deal-breaker permits and small growers on community farms can sell their produce, opening up small business opportunities and making fresh produce more widely available.

The new rules allow residents living in single-family homes to keep up to five chickens. They can keep up to 15 birds if the coop

is at least 15 feet from the property line and up to 50 birds if the coop is a minimum of 50 feet from residential structures. Coops must provide at least six square feet of space per bird, be sturdy enough to keep out predators, be well ventilated and kept clean. Sorry, roosters may not apply.

Two miniture goats are now welcome in the yards of single-family homes and their proud owners may legally consume their milk and make goat milk products like cheese and yogurt for their own use. You need to give them a nice shed that is predator-proof, thoroughly ventilated, watertight, easily accessed and cleaned. There are several other requirements you need to conform to if you’re serious about this.

And finally, those happy bees. You can keep up to two hives in single-family areas as long as they are at least 15 feet from neighbors’ homes and 20 feet from a street, alley or sidewalk.

We’ve come a long way towards making our yards and gardens more productive and in reclaiming rights that our forefathers took for granted. Now all we have to do is get out there and get our hands dirty.

For more information, check out the 1 in 10 Coalition’s summary of the new rules: sdfoodpolicy.org/downloads/UA_Summary_Table_Council_vers_2012Jan31.pdf

2 edible San Diego spring 2012

CONTRIBUTORSThomas Ackerman

Nick BruneChris Rov CostaRiley Davenport

Kristen FogleCaron Golden

Brandon HernándezLauren Lastowka

Vincent RossiSusan Russo

Leah R. Singer Matt Skenazy

Matt SteigerCarole Topalian

Pasquale Verdicchio

PUBLISHERSRiley Davenport

John Vawter

EDITORLauren Lastowka

COPY EDITORSDoug Adrianson

John Vawter

DESIGNERRiley Davenport

COVER PHOTO Chris Rov Costa

Edible San DiegoP.O. Box 83549

San Diego, CA 92138619-222-8267

[email protected]

ADVERTISINGFor information about

rates and deadlines, call 619-222-8267 or email us at

[email protected]

No part of this publication may be used without written permission of

the publisher. © 2011. All rights reserved.

Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If an error comes to your attention,

please let us know and accept our sincere

apologies. Thank you.

Riley Davenport & John Vawter

edible Communities2011 James Beard Foundation

Publication of the Year

Publishers’ Note

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FARM ERS M ARKET

Your Sunday; Your Market Hillcrest Farmers Market

Facebook.com/HillcrestFarmersMarket

/ eggplant/ ; is a plant of the family Solanceae (also known as the nightshades) and genus Solanum. it bears a fruit of the same name, commonly used in cooking. as a nightshade, it is closely related to the tomato and potato and is native to India.

CURRENTLY IN SEASON AT THE HILLCREST FARMERS MARKET

find eggplant this season at the hillcrest farmers market

SHARE YOUR SUNDAY STORIES ABOUTTHE HILLCREST FARMERS MARKET WITH US:

nourish your soul, nourish yourself


Notable edibles

Chef Tyler Thrasher

Market manager Brian Beevers

Phot

os: M

att S

teig

er

Brooklyn Girl Eatery—Sustainable Eats in Mission Hills

This February, Brooklyn Girl Eatery became the newest addition to the corner of Goldfinch and Ft. Stockton in Mission Hills. Michael and Victoria McGeath, former owners of Trattoria Acqua in La Jolla, opened this neighborhood-centric eatery built around an ideology of sustainability and accessible, high-quality food.

Brooklyn is where Victoria hails from but there’s more to the name than that, says her husband, Michael: “Brooklyn is also an epicenter for cuisine right now. Though we’re fond of organic and sustainable [in San Diego], Brooklyn is probably one of the places best doing that right now.”

Michael, who has been involved in eco-friendly, sustainable practices for 40 years, has enlisted chef Tyler Thrasher, formerly of Jsix and Oceanaire, to continue this tradition at Brooklyn Girl. Specifically, the pair intend to obtain 90% of their product from San Diego County, (including beer, wine and free-range chicken), make use of an in-house herb garden and recycle green waste. They also plan on becoming LEED certified.

Open from 7:30am to midnight seven days a week, there is no doubt Brooklyn Girl will become the new place for local foodies.

—Kristen Fogle

Farmers’ Markets Strive to Make Food Accessible to All

Not many farmers’ markets are accessible to low-income families. “Farmers’ Markets sometimes have a false stereotype that they’re more expensive,” said Brian Beevers, manager of the Point Loma, Mission Hills, University Towne Center (UTC), Imperial Beach and Golden Hill farmers’ markets. Because of this perception, he believes it is tough to attract low-income families to local markets.

Yet Beevers has managed to overcome this barrier by arranging for the markets to accept government-subsidized Electronic Benefit Transfer (EBT) cards—or food stamps.

“The EBT system is empowering people to eat better,” said Beevers, who previously served as the manager of the City Heights farmers’ market when it implemented the first farmers’ market EBT program in San Diego.

Beevers supports EBT for one main reason: he believes that fresh and healthy food should be accessible to everyone, no matter where they fall in the income bracket. After implementing the system in City Heights, he put the program into place in all of his markets.

“Once I realized the value and importance [of EBT] and what it did for the community, my markets were the next to implement the system,” he said.

He also sees the EBT program as a business booster for markets and farm vendors. Beevers sees every EBT transaction as a sale he and the local farms would not have otherwise made. “These low-income families are not coming with cash. They’re coming because they know we have EBT. They want fresh and local produce.”

Beevers hopes all farmers’ markets will eventually accept EBT. Currently, in addition to the markets mentioned above, the San Marcos, Santee, Linda Vista and Southeast San Diego farmers’ markets and the People’s Produce Project are EBT capable.

—Leah R. Singer


The Lion’s Share

629 Kettner Blvd.San Diego, CA 92101

619-564-6924

www.lionssharesd.com

Hours: 4pm–2am daily, full menu until 10pm, late-night menu until midnight

Fare: Game

The Lion’s Share scores big in the Marina District

Every neighborhood needs a comfy corner bar-restaurant and now downtown’s Marina District has one of the best around. That’s saying a lot, considering craft cocktaileries and upscale watering holes are the trend du jour, but a youthful, exciting crew and a well-executed menu earn The Lion’s Share early praise.

This kitchen’s got game—literally. A menu made up of reimagined bar snacks and hearty entrées is built on woodland- and pasture-plucked proteins including antelope, boar, quail and buffalo. Those meats are augmented by produce from hallowed grounds at Suzie’s Farm and Crow’s Pass Farm.

The bill of fare is the collaborative product of executive chef Lhasa Landry (Red Velvet, Café Chloe, Blanca, Starlite) and sous-chef Jacob Rodriguez (Café Chloe, El Take It Easy), both of whom rise to the challenge of standing out at a time when it seems just about everybody’s looking to “heighten” or “elevate” bar food. Few are doing as good a job at infusing touches of innovation while trimming fatty pretention as this pair. A level of attention is being applied that surpasses other similar venues. The result: flavors, textures and seasonings that are spot-on.

Buffalo is the backbone for a soulful Bolognese punched up with savory bone marrow; quail gets stuffed with dates, bacon and preserved lemon. Even in a town that’s now teeming with burgers and Burrata, The Lion’s Share’s interpretations—a grass-fed beef patty topped with smoked cheddar and wild boar bacon bathed in runny duck egg yolk, and gushy cow’s milk cheese served with roasted grapes and a pomegranate gastrique—garner plenty of attention, mmms and aahs. It’s a solid start and a promising sign of things to come.

—Brandon Hernández

Wild boar ribs


Confetti for Gino: A San Diego Italian Film Festival Celebration

Lorenzo Madalena’s late 1950s novel, Confetti for Gino, is about life in San Diego’s Italian-American community during the key transitional period immediately after WWII. The novel centers on the choices

that its protagonist, Gino DeMarino, a rough and tough tuna fisherman, makes concerning work, family and marriage. We learn of his allegiance to his family, his desire to integrate into American culture, and his attraction to a woman who seems to stand for all that is not acceptable to his mother and most of his community. It is a poignant story and an accurate portrayal both of San Diego’s Little Italy neighborhood during the 1940s and of the challenges faced by those who grow up in multicultural families. It also offers a glimpse into Madalena’s own life.

Like his protagonist, Madalena (who was born in San Diego) grew up in an Italian-American fishing family in Little Italy. Like Gino, as well as many children of immigrants, Madalena had to find his own way to integrate into American life, but at the same time, found no easy answers to his dilemma: Italian or American? His

novel helps us see life in line with the questions many children of immigrants encounter: What culture do I identify with? And why?

Confetti for Gino has been out of print for decades, but this year a new edition of the novel is being published. The San Diego Italian Film Festival will re-introduce this new edition in May during the annual Cinecucina celebration, an event that uses Italian cinema to focus on food, culture and the ever-constant struggle between assimilation and authenticity. More details about Cinecucina, including a schedule of events, are available at www.sandiegoitalianfilmfestival.com.

—Pasquale Verdicchio and Lauren Lastowka

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Notable edibles

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iN seasoN iNterview

Giving BackFarm House Café chef Olivier Bioteau focuses on the next chapter of his career

By Brandon HernándezPhotography by Chris Costa

He honed his culinary chops at Michelin-starred restaurants in Europe, cooked in the Alps and

dished up gourmet fare for the likes of Pierre Cardin. Chef Olivier Bioteau’s journey is a rich one filled with magnificent twists and turns, all of which have led to the realization of his dream to own and operate his own quaint, comfy neighborhood eatery. That dream come true is University Heights’ bastion for rustic French cuisine, Farm House Café.

Since opening in 2008, it has quietly amassed a cult following and reputation as one of San Diego’s finest restaurants, thanks to Bioteau’s precisely prepared, vibrantly flavorful edible offerings.

“My dream was to come and work in the U.S. and have my own restaurant, and it happened. I’m privileged to be a part of Cooks Confab. I have my wife, my house and everything I need,” says Bioteau. “I’m a blessed chef and a blessed man and where I’m at now is all about giving back.”

For that aspiration, Bioteau started with a vocational faction he once aspired to be a part of. “Like any little boy, I had dreams of being a firefighter and driving a big red truck,” he recalls. So when his wife brought a firefighter client of hers in to Farm House Café for dinner, Bioteau was happy to feed them well and spend post-meal time chatting over some


Assiette de CruditesYield: 4 servings

2 bunches baby carrots

2 bunches baby turnips

2 bunches radishes

1 bunch asparagus

1 bulb baby fennel

1 head Belgian endive

1 small head baby lettuce

1 cup Aioli (recipe follows)

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Peel and thoroughly wash and dry all of the vegetables. Blanch all of the vegetables, except for the lettuce, for 10 seconds, then rinse under cold running water. Pat dry and arrange the vegetables on a large platter with aioli in a condiment cup for dipping.

wine. That spirited conversation led to Bioteau offering to head over to the firehouse to prepare a grand five-course meal for its residents. It was his way of saying thank you to those civil servants, but he wasn’t done there.

Last December, Bioteau put on a fundraiser dinner in conjunction with the firefighters that benefitted the U.S. Marine Corps’ Toys For Tots and Wounded Warrior efforts. The event raised over $1,000, garnered 80 toys for needy children and marked the start of a promising long-term relationship.

Other neighbors the chef has reached out to are the staff and students at Alice Birney Elementary. The school tends two on-campus gardens, both of which help supply its cafeteria. Bioteau contributes compostable waste from his restaurant to the school. He’s also helped to expand the garden program to include lessons on utilizing its fruits and vegetables in a home kitchen environment by preparing recipe cards and demonstrating cooking methods to students.

His teaching activities aren’t limited to his time at Birney Elementary. Whereas the years leading up to this point have been about turning and burning on the line, Bioteau now feels he’s in a place, both in his life and his career, where he has the liberty and the obligation to pass on all he’s learned to the next generation. “I want to teach my staff everything that I know. That’s my purpose now,” he says.

One of the key beneficiaries of his tutelage is Cristina Marquez, a graduate of a Vancouver-based chocolate-focused culinary program who approached the chef two years ago, eager to absorb everything he could teach her about the art of chocolatiering, Bioteau took her under his wing, and today the duo have a side business, XO Chocolates (the X stands for Cristina and the O for Olivier), located in an alley-like shop directly next door to Farm House Café. Their milky, bitter and semi-sweet confections are available at the restaurant as well as local chain Chocolat Cremerie’s numerous locations.

Unlike those sweet treats, another of Bioteau’s creations, a comprehensive cookbook outlining the how-to details on some of his finest dishes, is harder to come by. Penned shortly before he opened Farm House Café, that labor of love resides—replete with beautiful photos and fascinating narratives amounting to the chef ’s life story—unpublished on a disk in Bioteau’s home office.

Excessive production costs are the primary reason it’s not gracing the shelves of a Barnes & Noble or the electronic annals of Amazon.com, he says, but in keeping with his desire to share his lessons on cookery he’s contributed three recipes for Edible San Diego readers. Giving back has never been so satisfying, both for the soul and the stomach.

Brandon Hernández is a native San Diegan with a passion for the culinary arts and the local dining scene. He has been featured numerous times on the Food Network hit program Emeril Live, regularly contributes to over a dozen national and local magazines, newspapers and online outlets and has authored and co-authored several cookbooks. Follow him at twitter.com/offdutyfoodie or drop him a line at [email protected].

AioliYield: 1 cup

3 garlic cloves, peeled, blanched and finely chopped

1 large egg yolk

1 cup olive oil (or vegetable oil, to substitute)

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Salt and pepper to taste

Saffron or fresh herbs (chervil, chives, parsley or tarragon), optional

Place the garlic and egg yolk into a bowl. Slowly whisk in the olive oil until it is completely incorporated. Whisk in the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Add in saffron or herbs, if desired. Serve or store, refrigerated in an airtight container, for up to 1 week.

—Recipes courtesy of Olivier Bioteau


Spring Pea Tortellini with Mushroom RagoutYield: 8 servings

1 pound frozen peas, thawed (or edamame or fava beans, to substitute)

4 ounces cheese (Parmegiano-Reggiano, goat, ricotta or mozzarella)

Salt and pepper to taste

2 eggs

2 tablespoons milk (or water, to substitute)

1 recipe Pasta Dough (recipe follows)

1 quart assorted mushrooms, washed and quartered

1 shallot, finely diced

½ cup white wine

1 cup chicken stock (or vegetable broth, to substitute)

4 ounces cold unsalted butter

Grated Parmegiano-Reggiano, to taste, for garnish

Extra-virgin olive oil, for garnish

Place the peas, cheese, salt and pepper in the bowl of a food processor and mix until everything is completely

incorporated. Set aside.

Make an egg wash by beating the eggs and milk together; set aside.

Divide the pasta dough into 2-inch by 2-inch by ½-inch-thick squares. Use a pasta roller to roll the dough into long, thin sheets. With a cookie cutter, cut the sheets into circles. Brush each circle with egg wash. Spoon a bit of the pea mixture into the center of each circle. Fold the circles in half and pinch the edges together to seal. Pinch the left and right corners together to form them into tortellini shapes. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Bring large pot of salted water to a boil.

Make the mushroom ragout: Combine the mushrooms, shallot and white wine in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil and cook until the wine is almost completely evaporated. Add the stock and reduce by 50%. Stir in the butter until it is completely incorporated. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat.

Place the tortellini in the boiling water and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Strain the pasta and transfer to a large bowl. Ladle the mushroom ragout atop the pasta, sprinkle with Parmegiano-Reggiano or extra-virgin olive oil and serve immediately.

Pasta Dough

Yield: 40 tortellini

1 pound all-purpose flour

½ pound semolina flour

½ cup water

¼ cup olive oil

4 large eggs

Pinch salt

Place all of the ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and mix until everything is completely incorporated. Remove and knead. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

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Ricotta PancakesYield: 16 pancakes

2 large eggs

¼ cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Zest of 1 orange

1 pound ricotta cheese

¾ cup all-purpose flour

2 cups Orange Butter Sauce (recipe follows)

Confectioner’s sugar

Whisk together the eggs, sugar, vanilla and orange zest. Mix in the ricotta until it is completely incorporated. Fold in the flour using a rubber spatula. Let the mixture rest for 30 minutes. Place a ladleful of the mixture on a lightly oiled griddle and cook until golden brown on both sides and fluffy. Remove and keep warm.

To serve, place several pancakes on a plate and drizzle with orange butter sauce. Sprinkle with confectioner’s sugar and serve immediately.

Orange Butter Sauce

Yield: 2 cups

Juice of 2 oranges

2 ounces unsalted butter

Pinch salt

Place the orange juice in a small saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce by 50%, then whisk in the butter and salt. Serve immediately.


City Farmers Nursery: A Model of Urban Homesteading

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATT STEIGER


Interest in urban homesteading is at unprecedented levels: People are looking to fill their pantries from their own

backyards. Last year, the City of San Diego passed community garden reform, allowing for the creation of new garden plots and the sale of produce from those plots. Last

issue, we reported on the urban agriculture degree program underway at City College. On January 31, the San Diego City Council voted unanimously to ease restrictions for keeping chickens, goats and bees, to sell produce from your home, and to make it easier to start a community garden. Canning, homebrewing, gardening and most forms of home-produced food are on the rise.

Let us designate 2012 the year of urban homesteading!

Many of us are just now discovering the “old ways” of living. We are faced with the challenges of growing food and raising animals in our rocky, crowded and arid backyards. We are trying to make jam, churn butter and brew beer in our tiny kitchens. Though the old ways are … old, many of the challenges of homesteading in an urban environment are new. Fortunately

we have the foresight of one man to show us the way: Bill Tall.

Bill Tall founded City Farmers Nursery in 1972 in the heart of City Heights; he was 16. His father loaned him the money for the 1.5-acre plot and he begged and

borrowed manure and lumber to get the nursery growing. He knew from the beginning that he wanted the project to be his job, his home and his own experiment in sustainability and self-sufficiency.

A walk through City Farmers is an education in urban homesteading. The front is deceptively small, a storefront and a few sectioned-off areas with veggies, fruit trees and ornamentals for sale. But as you delve deeper into this oasis you find chickens, ducks, rabbits, goats, turkeys, a horse, koi, beehives and a tilapia pond.

No space is wasted; sheds host rooftop gardens and the surrounding hills hold Bill’s personal apple and berry orchards. Apiaries are positioned strategically on the hill adjacent to the garden. No resource is squandered; rainwater off the house is collected in a large pool that holds tilapia.

The tilapia pond also serves as a water source for Bill’s personal vegetable garden. His animals and garden provide food for his family and compost for the nursery.

Bill built his house in the center of the property; his commute to work each day

is a short walk down to the storefront. The entryway opens into a great room, boasting a large cobblestone fireplace and hearth. An enormous kitchen sits to the side, with surrounding butcher-block countertops and a roller island covered in canned fruits and veggies, fresh eggs, homemade bread and, at times, even some homebrewed cider. The sounds of chirping chicks escape from his side room, as does the slightly pungent smell of his closet mushroom farm.

From the start, Bill Tall set out to live, teach and pursue a more natural way of life in the midst of a city environment. For the past 40 years he weathered the storm of American food insanity. Only now is the winter of his discontent made glorious summer.

City Farmers Nursery: A Model of Urban Homesteading

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATT STEIGERBill Tall leads the way in our local urban homesteading movement.

He knew from the beginning that he wanted the project to be his job, his home and his own experiment in sustainability and self-sufficiency.

Bill Tall (left). Bill’s residence is in the midst of City Farmers Nursery (above).


“There was a time when people wouldn’t buy our plants, because there were ants in the pot or some of the leaves were withered. They would come in and ask for pesticides and we would tell them just to hose their plant off every couple of days. For a while people thought we were crazy, but now organic gardening is really catching on.”

“People are looking to get out of the grocery store. They’re realizing they can do a lot of it at home.” Bill only requires a trip to the store every three months. He wants people to realize the potential to produce their own food, to understand their plants, animals, land and seasons.

“You have to eat what you have, not what you wish you had. I eat as much fresh fruit and veggies as I can; the rest gets frozen, canned or dehydrated. I raise my own chickens, turkeys and tilapia for meat. The goats provide fresh milk and cheese. Have you ever tried fresh goat milk? It’s delicious; not goaty at all and so creamy.”

Bill is excited about our rapidly changing food attitudes, but he is also concerned about education. “Animals need lots of care; they need to be kept clean, they need good food and water and they can get diseases. Bees need a reliable water source and signage to alert emergency personnel.”

He has taken it upon himself to help. City Farmers offers frequent free classes on gardening, cooking, animals and whatever else Bill is interested in.

His latest idea is to set up an olive mill and teach classes on pressing olive oil. He will let people bring their olives in to press, for the nominal fee of a few bottles of oil. Bill likes following his instinct: “One day a lady gave me some chickens she couldn’t take care of. Then suddenly we had lots of chickens, we had to buy our feed in bulk. Now people buy their feed from us and we sell almost 1,000 pounds a week. As a business you have to keep moving, always looking for the next thing.”

Bill’s business philosophies also include the community. City Farmers donates money, supplies, time and food to a plethora of local charities. He also invites anyone, anytime to come wander through his nursery, check out his animals, or have a picnic in his bonsai garden. “There aren’t

“There was a time when people wouldn’t buy our plants, because there were ants in the pot or some of the leaves were withered. They would come in and ask for pesticides and we would tell them just to hose their plant off every couple of days. For a while people thought we were crazy, but now organic gardening is really catching on.” —Bill Tall

Clockwise from top left: Seed display, resident chicken and turkey, class listings, Bill’s kitchen.


many places in San Diego where people can go see animals for free. I think it’s really neat and I enjoy having people come share the experience.”

At City Farmers, Bill Tall isn’t just trying to engage the community; he’s building it with his free classes, free advice and warm environment. “A lady came in the other day with her young daughter. She told me she had been coming to see my animals since she was 8 years old. That makes me happy. This nursery is my life and I love to see people enjoying it.”

City Farmers Nursery offers a wealth of knowledge on all things homesteading and urban agriculture. In addition to tons of healthy fruit trees and veggies, they sell all manner of gardening implements, organic seeds, beekeeping supplies, canning equipment, animal feed, tilapia fry and Radio Flyer nostalgia (Bill’s childhood soft-spot). All classes are offered for free or for a nominal materials fee, and advice from Farmer Bill is always free. If you are embarking on any new homesteading project, chances are Bill is at least one step

ahead of you. Check out the nursery class schedule at cityfarmersnursery.com or, better yet, visit it in person at 4832 Home Ave., in City Heights.

Matt Steiger is a physicist and published science writer who spends his free time gardening, fishing, brewing, cooking and obsessing over food. Matt is always on the lookout for the best produce, fresh fish, great drinks and the perfect cup of coffee. Follow him at thefoodlunatic.com, or contact him at [email protected]

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loCally growN ProgramsBy Vincent Rossi

San Diego Grown 365 is a campaign initiated by the San Diego County Farm Bureau to alert consumers to products produced within the

county. The campaign logo is a bright red burst bearing within it the yellow sunbeam-tinged

phrase San Diego Grown 365.

The logo “carries with it all the meaning of the message we want to get to consumers,” said Casey Anderson, the farm bureau’s membership and

marketing manager. “The products were produced in San Diego, and the

‘365’ is a reference to the 365-day growing season that San Diego County enjoys.”

Only those whose products are at least 85% grown or harvested in San Diego County or its surface or coastal waters have the right to display the logo, according to the farm bureau’s guidelines. Retailers selling those products can also display it.

As of mid-December Anderson said 19 growers had signed on to the campaign, up from 15 just two months earlier. A number of local retailers are also participating, including California Avocado Grill in Escondido and Foxy Treats, a maker of healthy pet treats in San Marcos.

Other segments of the farming community are pursuing similar efforts through other channels.

Tom and Mary Page own Page Organics, a certified organic farm in Ramona. They sell their produce directly to consumers through their farmstand. They also sell to stores specializing in organic produce, such as Jimbo’s and Whole Foods.

Tom Page, who also works as a trainer in Jimbo’s deli department, said both Jimbo’s and Whole Foods have what he called “internal locally grown programs.” The stores send out “foragers” to inspect local farms from which they buy produce. Displays in the stores’ produce departments include signage indicating the origins of the products, Page said.

Page is an active member of California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF). He’s also a member of Slow Food USA, Community Alliance with Family Farmers (CAFF) and Chefs Collaborative. He characterized these organizations and his farm’s individual and commercial clients as constituting “our own community and network of support” for promoting local agricultural products. Asked if there was any interaction or overlap with the San Diego Grown 365 campaign, Page answered, “Not that I’m aware of.”

When the farm bureau’s Anderson was asked whether San Diego Grown 365 did any coordinating or interacting with CCOF, Jimbo’s or Whole Foods, he replied, “Not regularly. If they have their own promotional marks there’s no reason for them to use the Farm Bureau’s.”

“Casey is doing a great job with the Farm Bureau,” Page added. “He represented the bureau at our CCOF Chapter Organic Food Symposium last month and gave a speech on membership. He definitely brings some fresh energy to the table.”

Vincent Rossi is a freelance writer whose work has appeared in newspapers (San Diego Union Tribune, San Jose Mercury News), online (San Diego News Network, Patch.com) and magazines (Westways, Edible San Diego). With his wife, Peggy, a professional genealogist, Vincent co-owns StorySeekers,a research and publishing company for family history, memoir and historical books.

Editor’s note: If you’re trying to buy local, where do you shop? Farmers’ markets are an obvious choice—many vendors are local, and it’s easy to ask questions about an item’s origin. Farmstands and community supported agriculture programs also offer direct access to local food. But what if your only option is a grocery store? How do you know what’s locally grown? Several programs in San Diego have launched to help shoppers find food that is grown, raised, or made in town.

www.leucadiafarmersmarket.com

Jimbo’s Naturally (top) and Whole Foods (bottom) display these locally sourced symbols.

Baron’s Market is also sourcing more produce

locally. Look for this symbol.

This year Edible Communities partnered with St-Germain, an all-natural, artisanally produced liqueur, to provide a new twist on the annual Can-Can Classic Cocktail Competition. To emphasize the importance of working with fresh ingredients, bartenders were challenged to develop an original cocktail recipe with St-Germain

liquid assets

St-Germain Can-Can Classic Cocktail contest winners shake it up

HOnOraBle MentiOn

timothy StevensProhibition/USBGCocktail: Polle-nation

“Bee pollen is one of the most region-specific ingredients you can find. Each hive derives its taste from the local flowers and plants. Although it is difficult to work with, the end result is rich and complex. It captures the Southern Californian flavor and embraces the floral aromatics of St-Germain. I chose tequila as the base spirit because of our proximity to the home of tequila—Mexico.”

1.5 oz Reposado tequila

0.5 oz local buckwheat honey pollen reduction with habanero infusion

0.5 oz wild flower honey water

1 oz St-Germain

0.5 oz lemon juice

Mix all ingredients in a shaker, shake with ice and strain into a cocktail glass.

Garnish with large lemon peel and edible flower.

Winner

Brian PrugalidadCraft & CommerceCocktail: las tres ninas de Mayahuel

“Crafted from local sustainable produce (prickly pear fruit, loquats, and anise) and the three traditional agave spirits: tequila, mezcal, and sotol. To create the anise infusion, crush anise seeds, put them in a paper tea bag or a cheese-cloth bag, and soak in St-Germain for two to three hours.”

¼ prickly pear fruit

1 egg white

1 oz loquat juice

0.75 oz anise-infused St-Germain

0.75 oz Fortaleza Blanco tequila

0.75 oz Del Maquey Chichicapa mezcal

0.50 oz Don Cuco Sotol

Muddle prickly pear fruit.

Combine egg white and remaining ingredients in shaker and dry shake (shake without ice) to emulsify egg white. Add ice and shake vigorously.

Strain into sour glass and enjoy!


using seasonal ingredients from their local regions. Each regional winner advanced to compete at the national level where a $10,000 cash prize was awarded to the national winner of the 4th Annual Can-Can Classic Cocktail Competition. The results were unique and delicious! Our regional winner was Brian Prugalidad

of Craft & Commerce, but the judges felt compelled to give rare Honorable Mentions to three other San Diego entrants. Unusual for a single region, but just what you’d expect from our pool of talented bartenders and mixologists!

HOnOraBle MentiOn

ian WardSnake Oil Cocktail Co.Cocktail: Postal Code 92107

“I have the good fortune to know local farmers David and Tina Barnes, owners of Crow’s Pass Farm, known for superior citrus. Southern California is known for oranges and for the ocean. Here you have both—housemade orange marmalade with a touch of white pepper to bridge the flavors of the botanicals in the gin and sea salt in my bitters to play off our proximity to the ocean and balance the sweetness of St-Germain.”

2 oz TRU Organic Gin (locally produced)

0.75 oz St-Germain

3 teaspoons of housemade Valencia and white pepper marmalade

2 dashes of housemade Fleur de Sel bitters

1 candied orange twist

Combine the gin, St-Germain, marmalade and bitters in a mixing glass or cocktail shaker. Add ice and shake vigorously. Place the candied orange twist in a chilled martini glass. Pour cocktail into glass through a fine strainer.

HOnOraBle MentiOn

Seth laufmanSaltboxCocktail: St. Julian Fizz

“Locally produced Ballast Point Old Grove Gin is the flavorful starting point of this cocktail. The flavors of local apples and spicy peppers combine with St-Germain to create a complex mix of flavors. Julian Hard Cider tops it off. Finally, a pinch of salt to go with the apple cider gives you a slightly sweet, spicy, salty bit of deliciousness.”

1 slice fresh ginger

1 pinch sea salt

1 serrano chile wheel

1.5 oz Ballast Point Old Grove Gin

0.75 oz St-Germain

0.75 oz fresh lime juice

0.5 oz honey syrup

Julian Hard Cider

1 caramelized apple slice

Muddle fresh ginger, salt and serrano chile toghther. Toss in all other ingredients except the cider and shake. Strain into a collins glass filled with ice. Top with Julian Hard Cider and garnish with caramelized apple slice.


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Monica Szepesy is cooking in the kitchen of Q’ero restaurant in Encinitas, something she rarely does these days despite the fact

that she owns the place. She puts diced garlic and onion in a pan to sauté in olive oil, then walks around the stainless steel counters to mince fresh slices of a long orange chili pepper in a food processor. The chili is an aji amarillo, one of the—if not the—most important ingredients in Peruvian cooking.

“Literally, when you read the menu you’re going to see aji amarillo listed in eight out of 10 dishes,” Szepesy said.

Despite recent acclaim in the States—two years ago the New York Times Magazine named it one of the “new staples” and in 2010 it was on the Saveur 100 list, an annual list of culinary finds—the aji amarillo isn’t exactly easy to track down. A few Latin markets carry it dried and ground up into a powder or puréed in a paste, but the fresh pepper is especially elusive.

Since she was a kid, Szepesy has made semi-yearly trips to her mother’s native Peru. On each trip since she opened Q’ero in 2000, she stocks up on “ingredients that are the backbone of the cuisine,” she said, especially the aji amarillo. Originally, she wanted to bring the whole

A New Kind of Community-Supported AgricultureStory and photography by Matt Skenazy

The Aji Amarillo Project aims to connect a restaurant and its customers

Monica Szepesy in the kitchen at Q’ero.


chilies back to San Diego but there were problems at Customs with bringing produce from one country to another. So Szepesy’s grandfather would buy the chili at the market in Cuzco, dry it and grind it in a meat grinder. She carried the fine, rust-orange powder in large plastic bags and water bottles.

On one of her trips a few years ago she illicitly brought back a handful of seeds that her grandparents had given her. The plant has large, spade-shaped leaves, a thick stalk and grows up to six feet tall.

She thought they would be fun to grow at her house. After one harvest she had more seeds than she needed for her own garden and a craving to experiment more in the kitchen with the fresh chilies.

Last summer, one of her employees at the restaurant had an idea: Have customers plant and tend an aji amarillo seedling until harvest time, when Q’ero would buy back the chilies at market price in the form of a gift certificate to the restaurant. They called it the Aji Amarillo Project. The plants, Szepesy wrote in an email, must be grown organically and the goal was to receive at least two pounds of chilies per grower at harvest time.

Within two hours of sending out the email to Q’ero’s mailing list she received over 240 replies.

Szepesy was thrilled about the potential of this very different community-sourced agriculture experiment. “We haven’t had an opportunity to use them in their fresh, whole state. Which is really going to be how we can taste and isolate that flavor,” Szepesy said. She wants to pickle the peppers; candy them; make jams; stuff them with cheeses, quinoa and herbs; and macerate them in pisco, the national drink of Peru.

The plants were handed out in August. They were about six inches tall each. Harvest time for the chilies is usually towards the end of October, but getting a plant to grow from six inches to six feet in two and a half months is not an easy task, especially in coastal California where the ocean chill can keep local gardens much cooler than equatorial Piura, the region in Peru that aji amarillo is native to. And like all projects and experiments with so many variables— sun, soil, weather, other people—things don’t always go according to plan.

“The most chilies I got from one person are on that plate over there,” Szepesy said in early December, pointing to a small ceramic dish with a handful of sunset-orange peppers on it. The harvest wasn’t quite what she had hoped for. Luckily, the aji amarillo is a perennial, so last year’s plants will be ready to produce fruit next year, as long as they aren’t exposed to frost. “I know next year will be different,” Szepesy said. “We’ve learned a lot. Next year we’re going to start sooner, like in March, and find someone who can grow them in large quantities for us.”

Szepesy has always wanted to see the aji amarillo harvest, to fly above the land and see the masses of chilies spread out in the sun. If the Aji Amarillo Project goes as planned, she might not even need to go to Peru to see it.

Matt Skenazy is a freelance writer and editor. His work has appeared in The Surfer’s Journal, Climbing Magazine, Sierra and elsewhere. He is the 2012 Miller-McCune Fellow.

Last summer, one of her employees at the restaurant had an idea: Have customers plant and tend an aji amarillo seedling until harvest time, when Q’ero would buy back the chilies at market price in the form of a gift certificate to the restaurant.

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Mama Carmen’s Aji de Gallina (Q’ero Style)Serves six

1 whole roaster chicken

3 cups cubed white bread (without crusts)

1 can evaporated milk

2/3 cup walnuts

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 cloves garlic, minced

2 cups minced yellow onions

1/3 cup grated parmesan

1 cup freshly blended aji amarillo chilies

Pinch of pepper (preferably white)

Pinch of cumin

Salt, to taste

Place chicken in a large pot and cover. Add salt, bring to a boil, and simmer until cooked. Reserve 2 cups of broth. Remove the chicken, set aside until cool enough to handle, then tear into strips (do not shred too fine).

Meanwhile, place bread cubes in a large bowl and cover with evaporated milk. Soak until bread is moistened all the way through. Transfer bread cubes to a food processor or blender, add walnuts, and puree until a mixture becomes a paste the consistency of thick gravy.

When chicken is shredded, heat the oil in a large pan, add the garlic and cook briefly (do not brown). Add onion and cook until translucent. Add the bread-walnut mixture, parmesan cheese, and aji amarillo chilies. Stir until combined. Season with pepper, cumin, and salt. Add 1 cup chicken broth to thin out sauce (adding more if necessary). Add the chicken and stir until combined and heated through. Thin out with more broth if necessary. Serve over sliced boiled potatoes, or accompanied by rice or quinoa. Buen Provecho!

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24 edible San Diego winter 2011/12

The Chef as Farmer

By Caron Golden Photography by Chris Costa

The new “agri-chef” is a growing force in San Diego.

On a sunny January morning, restaurateur Trish Watlington, owner of The Red Door

and The Wellington in Mission Hills, sat at the head of her dining room table with new executive chef Miguel Valdez, plus Karen Contreras and Brianna Bain of Urban Plantations. Scattered in the middle of the table were several seed catalogs from Territorial Seed Company. Under discussion was what to start planting for spring harvest in the quarter-acre garden just outside the back door of Watlington’s Mt. Helix home.

French fingerling potatoes? Broccoli rabe? Sungold tomatoes? New Queen melons? Celeriac? Valdez weighed in with ideas for dishes he could make. After all, that harvest would be used by Valdez and his kitchen crew at both restaurants.

Watlington cleared out that part of her family’s property last summer and—like Waters Fine Catering, which has a chef ’s garden at Fibonacci’s—hired Contreras to build and

winter 2011/12 edible San Diego 25

manage the garden for the restaurants. But every morning Watlington totes baskets and a knife outside to harvest the bounty and then drops it off at the restaurants’ kitchen—unless Valdez stops by to do the picking himself, looking like a kid in a candy shop.

What Watlington and Waters Fine Catering are doing is part of a larger trend of restaurants growing their own food. In fact, it’s the number seven food trend for 2012 listed by The Food Channel. The new “agri-chef ” is a growing force in San Diego. And while some restaurants hire companies like Urban Plantations and Vertical Earth Gardens (which constructs and maintains hydroponic gardens), many chefs are doing it themselves.

And, says, Contreras, they’re creating a new kind of specialization—chefs and kitchen staff who develop a connection between cooking skills and garden knowledge. “There has long been a connection challenge between chefs and the food they work with, but that’s being broken down by chefs coming into the garden,” she says. “Their kitchen knowledge melds with garden knowledge. The cross between chef and farmer creates a new kind of job.”

an emerging trendThe oldest of these restaurant gardens in San Diego may be the herb garden at Loew’s Coronado Bay Resort, used by chef de cuisine Patrick Ponsaty for Mistral dishes like a chervil crab salad surrounded by tomato water and seared scallop with tarragon and an infused-lobster consommé. The herb garden went in at least 15 years ago and is often the site for cooking classes. Mixologist Antonio Gonzales also is inspired by the bounty—creating drinks like homegrown lavender drops, for Thursday cocktail classes.

Perhaps the largest of these endeavors is the West Farm in Carlsbad. Just east of Bistro West near Cannon Road, the one-acre farm, surrounded by eucalyptus trees, was the brainchild and now the pride and joy of chef Eugenio Martignago. He grew up on a farm in Mezzano, Italy. “I did the milking and collected fresh eggs as a child on our farm,” he recalls. “We had pigs and used everything—even the blood to make blood pudding.”

There is no livestock on the West Farm, but rows upon long, even rows of produce: three types of heirloom tomatoes, zucchini, green beans and sugar snap peas, English peas, Persian cucumbers, eggplant and beets. Alongside a fence are containers newly filled with freshly picked carrots and squash blossoms. The blossoms will be used for

a zucchini blossom salad with feta. There will be a garden fettuccini on the menu; pickled cucumbers, beets and carrots; and a Niçoise salad using the string beans. A new greenhouse is sheltering seedlings—chocolate and candy mint, basil, microgreens, sage and lavender—until they’re mature enough for planting. And, while not certified as organic, the West Farm, like other restaurant farms, uses organic practices.

“ There has long been a connection challenge between chefs and the food they work with, but that’s being broken down by chefs coming into the garden. Their kitchen knowledge melds with garden knowledge.” —Karen Contreras

“ I did the milking and collected fresh eggs as a child on our farm. We had pigs and used everything—even the blood to make blood pudding.” —Chef Eugenio Martignago

Chef Miguel Valdez in the garden at Trish Watlington’s residence. Chef Patrick Ponsaty uses fresh herbs from Loew’s herb garden.


How Does Your Garden Grow?Last summer, another, smaller garden was getting underway in Logan Heights. Greely Garden is named for the street on which it sits, behind an apartment building. This is Urban Solace’s garden and sous-chef Virginia Vaccaro is head gardener—with help from her dad, Lorn Davies. In January, the 80-by-60-foot plot was fairly barren. All gardens are by nature a work in progress, but this one is truly just underway.

“The plot was offered to us by a customer who had recently bought the apartment building,” says Matt Gordon, chef/owner of Urban Solace. “We thought it would be a great opportunity for all of us to learn something and do something unique in a very odd location.”

Vaccaro grew up gardening and has taken on the project, spending about eight hours a week there. She and other Urban Solace cooks and servers cleared the ground, built a greenhouse and began prepping the soil with their own compost and compost from the Miramar landfill. Last summer, they had their first crop of squash, green beans, green tomatoes and a variety of herbs.

They’ve also planted raspberry bushes, blueberry bushes, orange, lime and bay laurel trees. Café Moto donated wood pallets that they’ve broken down to use for borders and fencing. Wire mesh protects the plants from voracious gophers while neem oil deals with insects.

In January, the greenhouse was filled with the very beginnings of yellow squash, Butternut

squash, cucumbers, broccoli, celery, tomatoes, Brussels sprouts and Blue Lake green beans. “At the moment we’ve been buying organic seeds online and from nurseries around town,” says Vaccaro. We plan to eventually produce our own seeds from some of the plants we’re growing, like peppers and tomatoes, and down the line become as self-sufficient as possible.”

And, Vaccaro is partnering with Laura Rodriguez Elementary School, bringing the students over to the garden for classes. Additionally, a portion of the garden will be set aside for the apartment building’s residents to do some gardening.

no Space? no Problem.Not every restaurant has property to work with. But that hasn’t proved an issue for determined chefs. Nine-Ten’s Jason Knibb

Chef Patrick Ponsaty uses fresh herbs from Loew’s herb garden. Chef Eugenio Martignago harvests regularly from West Farm.


had been wanting a restaurant garden since he saw one in Sundance, Utah, years ago. Finally, he persuaded his bosses to put in a hydroponic garden. Knibb brought in Vertical Earth Gardens to construct and maintain this essentially soil-less garden. Large interconnected tubes soar over the ground, each with multiple holes that fit small pots filled with seedlings that grow to full-size plants. According to Vertical Earth Gardens’ partner Mark DeMitchell, “Nutrients are added to a recirculating system that are in the simplest form plants can use them. No nutrients are ever leached into groundwater.”

DeMitchell starts new plants in germination houses in Vista. Then he and his partner Michael Tarzian construct the gardens. Nine-Ten has three, eight-foot-by-eight-foot gardens filled with chives, Red Cross and Nancy Butterhead lettuce, Swiss chard, African blue basil, parsley and a variety of tomatoes and peppers. On average, this size garden can hold 70 plants, meaning Nine-Ten has about 210 thriving, productive plants.

“We maintain restaurant and hotel gardens for all of our chefs once a week,” says DeMitchell. “This includes adding nutrients, beneficial bacteria, doing pest control, adding new plants and composting old ones off site. The chefs love the service because it gives them the freshest food, the best taste and seasonal veggies. All without doing a single thing. All they do is tell us what they want and pick it once it’s ready.”

Other chefs find space in the most unlikely places. Chef de cuisine Chris Kurth of the Grant Grill obtained space on the rooftop across from Horton Plaza for a garden.


Vaccaro grew up gardening and has taken on the project, spending about eight hours a week there. She and other Urban Solace cooks and servers cleared the ground, built a greenhouse and began prepping the soil with their own compost.

Urban Solace sous-chef Virginia Vaccaro

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It was built by an outside company, but Kurth, mixologist Jeff Josenhans and their staff are the gardeners.

“It’s been almost two years since we started and it was a free for all at first,” Kurth admits. “We’re working on giving it more structure.”

Kurth plants seeds when he wants something hard to find. Otherwise he picks up seedlings from farmers at the farmers’ markets. He’s initiated a composting program at the hotel and also maintains organic practices.

As a result, they’ve enjoyed bumper crops of tomatoes and peppers, along with a variety of herbs and some citrus from dwarf trees.

“It’s all about being able to have what you want when you want it,” says Kurth. “That’s our inspiration. I love to go upstairs and water the plants, look at the surrounding skyscrapers and think about what I want to cook.”

as local as it GetsClearly, these gardens are a labor of love—whether the chefs and restaurant owners are actually farming the land or simply doing the harvesting. But each one says that growing their own food makes a true difference to the menus and is a way to set them apart with customers. Yes, weather can be a challenge—both heat and frost. Figuring out how much to grow of any

given variety of produce has also been something these new farmers have had to learn. With Contreras’s help, Watlington has been able to measure the literal cost/benefits ratio, weighing harvested produce, measuring water used. Contreras and Bain post documents on Google Docs for Watlington and Valdez to identify in real

time planting and harvesting records. It gets complicated, but the payoffs so far have been worth the challenges, they say.

“First and foremost, food harvested and served in the same day tastes amazing,” says Watlington. “Seasonal and organic is healthier and, again, more flavorful. Still


Chef Jason Knibb’s vertical garden.

“ It all tastes better when you cut it at the right time and eat it immediately. Farm to table! That’s what we are!” —Jason Knibb

more important, it reduces our carbon footprint in a very large way. We’re not bringing food in from hundreds of miles away to be sorted in a warehouse and then shipped to us. And, I know it sounds corny, but feeding our guests is a real act of love for us and this allows us to bring them the very best-tasting, healthiest product we can provide. And the customers love it. They talk about the garden all the time. So many have commented on the taste of the homegrown greens and vegetables, how much more vibrant the flavors are. Most of them really appreciate our efforts to make such substantial changes.”

For Knibb, having a garden is exciting not just for him, but for his kitchen staff and the guests. “It’s always cool to go out and cut something and add it to your dishes. Or, we go out and say, ‘Hey, what can we use the butter lettuce for tonight?’ The guests love it and these days everyone is trying to grow their own things and have their own garden. It all tastes better when you cut it at the right time and eat it immediately. Farm to table! That’s what we are!”

Caron Golden is an award-winning freelance writer and the author of the blog San Diego Foodstuff. She writes the Local Bounty column for San Diego Magazine, and has contributed to Saveur, Culinate,

Sunset, the Los Angeles Times, and many others.

Chef Chris Kurth in the Grant Grill’s rooftop garden.

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“ It’s all about being able to have what you want when you want it,” says Kurth. “That’s our inspiration. I love to go upstairs and water the plants, look at the surrounding skyscrapers and think about what I want to cook.” — Chris Kurth


Living Earth Ranch and Farm in Potrero offers what its website calls “true free-range, pastured chicken.”

To many people, the word shepherd probably brings to mind flocks of sheep. However, chickens gather in flocks as well, and Alicia Finley, who wrangles them by the hundred as co-owner of Living Earth Ranch and Farm, likes to call herself a shepherd.

Finley and her partner, Drew Danforth, moved onto the land from Encinitas in April 2011. The project reflects their deeply held beliefs in sustainable farming, beliefs carried into the farm’s very name.

“Living Earth refers to two principles,”

said Finley. “The first principle is the act of consciously living on Earth with awareness, appreciation and intention. The second is acknowledging that the soil we are farming, ranching and living on is a living soil populated with more micro-organisms in one handful than there are people on the Earth. It is our goal to support this life rather than destroy it with chemical fertilizers, pesticides, over-saturation and over-tilling.”

Their principles also include raising their chickens in the healthiest way possible, both for the birds and the customers who buy

them for food. “We’re concerned about the health of animals and the stress that affects that health due to standard methods of production, like mixing in antibiotics with food all their lives,” said Finley.

Finley and Danforth feed their chickens only certified organic grains, “to insure avoidance of genetically modified corn and soy, and [to keep] hazardous spray residue from entering into our chickens’ diet and, in turn, yours.”

At 2 weeks old, the chicks are moved out of the barn to the outdoors, where they are allowed to forage on fresh pasture grasses, seeds and insects, Finley said. At night they are kept in a portable “night box” for protection from predators. During the day they’re released from the box to roam, under the watchful eyes of Finley and Danforth.

The farm’s 220 acres include 25 acres of flat pasture, enabling Finley and Danforth to rotate foraging areas. “They’re moved daily to ensure contact with unsoiled, fresh forage material,” said Finley. This avoids over-saturation and over-grazing. At the same time the land benefits greatly from the natural fertilizer the chickens leave behind.

Shepherding a New Flock at Living Earth Ranch By Vincent Rossi

“...the soil we are farming, ranching and living on is a living soil populated with more micro-organisms in one handful than there are people on the Earth. It is our goal to support this life rather than destroy it with chemical fertilizers, pesticides, over-saturation and over-tilling.” —Alicia Finley


“We raise the heritage-breed Plymouth Rock Chicken, which was the first breed admitted to the American Poultry Association over 150 years ago,” Finley said. “We also raise a standard meat bird, the Cornish Cross Rock, which has been the favored meat bird in America since the 1970s.”

“It’s pretty rewarding,” Danforth said of the way he and Finley have chosen to raise chickens. In a blog entry posted last fall on their website, Finley wrote, “After lifting the night box this morning and letting the chickens free to expend their energy in the dewy straw grass, I realized one of the greatest joys is releasing an animal from its cage. It’s really a beautiful thing.”

However, the freedom of the range also requires vigilance on the part of the shepherd. Finley describes how she and Danforth are always on the lookout for

hawks when out with the foraging chickens. If she spots one, she lets out a call similar to a rooster, and “every single free-ranging chicken runs for cover at lightning speed. They’re actually very easy to manage because of this.”

When it’s time for the chickens to change pastures, Finley and Danforth utilize a movable pen with sides but no bottom, about 10 feet by 12 feet, called a tractor.

Finley, 38, grew up in an Alabama suburb and earned a degree in art from Auburn University. Since coming to Southern California, she has worked as a bank teller, Realtor and substitute teacher for the San Diego Unified School District. But she’d had a longtime interest in farming. “I volunteered on farms in exchange for vegetables. I had a strong desire to be close to the land and involved with a farm.”

Finley began going to conferences, seminars, reading books. She got involved with the San Diego Roots Sustainable Food Project.

She found a kindred spirit in Danforth, 43. A native Californian, Danforth worked for 10 years in the purchasing department at the C.H.E.K. Institute in Vista, which produces educational programs for fitness and healthcare

She admits they both had mixed feelings about killing animals, but “there is a lot of joy in reaping what you sow, that element of harvest, waiting, watching it grow, whether it be meat or vegetable.”

“ Emma is our Austalian Shepherd and she is the main reason the chickens can roam unharmed. There is a bobcat that lives near us and a pack of coyotes that pass through the pasture every night, not to mention the mountain lion. She warns the chickens by barking when they are near, keeps the chickens on alert and deters any unwanted visitors. We lock everybody down by 6pm since Emma must come inside with us to keep her safe.” —Alicia Finley

Alicia Finley



professionals. He’s now working full time at the farm, which is a return to his roots. From age 9 through 16 he lived and worked on a farm in Northern California with his mother, an experience that included raising chickens.

“I had been inspired by some organic farmers and shared ideas with Drew on small, sustainable farming that doesn’t require a lot of infrastructure or investment,” Finley said.

She also said, “We’re meat eaters and we’re very intentional about the meat we eat. We’d drive further for grass-fed, humanely raised beef.”

While Danforth had experience in slaughtering and processing chickens from his years growing up on a farm, Finley said the methods they employ today are based on their studies of more humane processes. She admits they both had mixed feelings about killing animals, but “there is a lot of joy in reaping what you sow, that element of harvest, waiting, watching it grow, whether it be meat or vegetable.”

The farm gets day-old chicks from Murray McMurray, a 95-year-old hatchery in Iowa. So far, they are finding good demand for their product.

“We sold the first batch out before we even got it,” said Danforth. The second batch, which they are now working on, totals 155. The third will be 200. By February, “we expect to be doing 200 every two weeks,” Danforth said.

They started out delivering to individual customers, but they are planning to have drop-off sites at farmers’ markets. As of mid-December they had verbal commitments from three—Poway, La Jolla and Encinitas-Leucadia—Finley said.

Danforth describes the farm’s advertising as primarily by email and word-of-mouth. “We’re in the foodie network.”

They do all the work themselves. “We understand the sacrifices,” said Finley.

“It’s pretty exciting just to see the process unfold. We’re getting a lot of positive reaction,” said Danforth.

Vincent Rossi is a freelance writer whose work has appeared in newspapers (San Diego Union Tribune, San Jose Mercury News), online (San Diego News Network, Patch.com) and magazines (Westways, Edible San Diego). With his wife, Peggy, a professional genealogist, Vincent co-owns StorySeekers,a research and publishing company for family history, memoir and historical books. His special interests are history, politics and culture.

Living Earth Ranch & Farm1400 Potrero CirclePotrero CA 91963

619-808-2233 www.livingearthranch.com

Contact us for a garden consultation UrbanPlantations.com619-563-5771

Because freshness is the essence of everything you create.GARDEN TO TABLE

Urban Plantations is the leading edible landscape company specializing in the design, build and maintenance of organic

produce gardens. Dedicated to local San Diego businesses, it is our mission to bring the freshest harvests to the finest restaurants.

“I experienced comprehensive collaboration with Urban Plantations who have the passion, vision and the solid expertise to create and tend to something remarkable.”Andrew Spurgin Chef/Partner . Campine A Culinary + Cocktail Conspiracy

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Join our farm CSA!Buy a share in our farm and pick up weekly boxes of fresh vegetables, fruit and herbs

grown in San Diego county.We deliver to convenient North County drop points in: Oceanside, Cardiff, Solana Beach, Carlsbad, Vista, San Marcos/San Elijo Hills, Rancho Bernardo/4S, Rancho Penasquitos,

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morningsongfarm.com • 888-816-3335


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36 edible San Diego spring 2012 Phot

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At TERI, a Budding Edible Landscape

Nourishes More Than Diets

spring 2012 edible San Diego 37Phot

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It all started with the desire to save water. In spring 2010, leaders of the Training,

Education & Research Institute (TERI), an organization that works to improve the quality of life for children and adults with developmental and learning disabilities, decided they wanted to replace their thirsty lawn with a low-water landscape. This change would save the nonprofit organization money while benefiting the environment. It was a win-win. Then it got better.

Jana McMahon, TERI’s culinary and agricultural director, sought out master gardener Ari Tenenbaum of Revolution Landscape in La Jolla, who is recognized for his edible and eco-friendly landscape designs. As the two chatted, ideas started blossoming.

“I wanted it to be more than just a landscape,” says McMahon. “I envisioned an edible landscape that could feed and creatively nurture our residents and clients.” That’s when the Marshall House Edible Landscape and Therapy Garden project was born.

In addition to day classes at their campus, TERI has 12 homes for nearly 70 residents. Marshall House, one of these homes, will be

the site for Tenenbaum’s eco-friendly edible landscape and therapy garden.

To create a sustainable landscape, Tenenbaum filled the 10,000-square-foot edible garden with low-water California natives and porous materials that allow water to soak into the ground and reduce surface run-off, which causes pollution. He also included colorful ornamentals and edibles that attract butterflies and other pollinators, thereby creating a diverse ecosystem.

Tenenbaum’s vision of sustainability was equally informed by his goal to create a true therapy garden for the residents: “Gardening is a very therapeutic activity for me personally, so I was really excited about creating a place where they could play outside, and interact with the outdoor environment in a way that would be beneficial for their lives.”

The result: There will be many gardens within the garden for residents to enjoy. They will be able make music with giant rain sticks in the music garden, relax in the Zen garden, or simply enjoy the sensory stimulation of the herb garden. McMahon explained that herbs can be therapeutic: Smelling mint when you’re tired may perk you up, while

chamomile can calm your nerves.

Residents will also be able to help with planting, maintaining and harvesting crops. Tenenbaum designed extra-wide walkways and planted many raised beds to accommodate residents in wheel chairs.

“We wanted residents at all levels of function engaged in the landscape, from planting to weeding to harvesting and ultimately cooking,” says McMahon. “I mean, how excited will they be to pick their own lettuce for dinner? There’s a pride you have when you’ve grown something yourself, and we want [our residents] to experience that pride.”

The groundbreaking for the Marshall House edible landscape occurred in November 2011; at the time of this writing, the project is expected to be completed by February 2012. Bill Mara, chief operating officer of TERI, says the garden will be a prototype for other residential houses at TERI as well as for their 6.5-acre property in San Marcos, which houses their therapeutic equestrian center.

“We’re looking to turn all our properties into urban farms, to use the farming as revenue sources and to create jobs. Last year

“ I envisioned an edible landscape that could feed and creatively nurture our residents and clients.”

Nourishes More Than Diets

“ ...how excited will they be to pick their own lettuce for dinner? There’s a pride you have when you’ve grown something yourself, and we want [our residents] to experience that pride.” —Jana McMahon

Garden table and raised beds.

Photo: Ari Tenenbaum

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we harvested 2,800 pounds of produce. That’s a lot, more than our residents will eat, so, for example, we will contract with local restaurants to sell the produce,” he says.

McMahon shares Mara’s enthusiasm for the future. She adds that TERI hopes to start a farmers’ market where residents can sell handmade wares such as jams and jellies. Eventually, TERI would like to implement a resident-based program that will provide vocational agricultural education and culinary training.

“Sustainable gardens can be beautiful and practical,” says Tenenbaum. And, he suggests, inspiring. Perhaps the Marshall House project will be a model for other community organizations such as assisted living centers and nursing homes. “User-friendly gardens and therapy gardens have a lot of potential to change people’s lives in a positive manner.”

Bill Mara agrees. “The garden is going to be a magical place.”

Susan Russo is a San Diego–based food writer and cookbook author. She has a nationally recognized food blog, foodblogga.blogspot.com. She is a regular contributor to NPR’s Kitchen Window and has been selected “Best of the Web” by Saveur. Reach her at [email protected].

Donating to TERI

As a nonprofit organization, TERI is grateful to Dr. Herb Gabriel, who through his donations has financed approximately 70% of the Marshall House project. The remaining budget relies on community donations. If you would like to donate money or other items such as plants, trees or garden equipment, or would like to volunteer your services, please email Bill Mara at [email protected] or call 760-721-1706 ext. 103.

For photos and project updates, please visit www.revolutionlandscape.com.

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FARM TOUR DAYThe 3rd annual Farm Tour Day hosted by the San Diego County Farm Bureau is Saturday, June 16.

Pick from an array of San Diego farms including a vineyard and winery, a mushroom farm, nurseries, and avocado grove. Participate in as many tours as you choose to fit in your day!

Walk the farm with the farmer and experience the joys and challenges of San Diego farming.

Find out more and sign up to visit: www.sdfarmbureau.org/FarmTour

Contact: 760-745-3023Triple B Ranches


Eat Now | Plant NowApplesApricotsAsian PearsAsparagusAvocadosBasilBeans, greenBeetsBlackberriesBlueberriesBroccoliCabbageCarrotsCauliflowerCeleryChardCherries

CitrusCollardsCucumberDatesGreen onionsKaleKohlrabiLettuceMushroomsMustard greensPassion fruitPeasRaspberriesSpinachStrawberriesTomatoes

Beans, lima, snap & pole BeetsCantaloupe CarrotsCorn, sweet Cucumbers Eggplant (plants) FennelGreen onionsLeeksLettuce Melons OkraParsnipsPeasPepper (plants)

PotatoesRadishesSpinachSquash, summer Squash, winter Sweet potato (plants) Tomato (plants) Watermelons

Roasted Suzie’s Farm Cauliflower with Springhill Butter4 servings

1 pound Romanesco, purple cauliflower, white cauliflower (or a mix)

1 oz rice bran oil or any other neutral oil with high smoking point

1.25 oz Spring Hill butter or any other high quality organic butter

1 oz minced chives

6 grams salt

Method:

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Clean the cauliflower into individual florets. Don’t discard the stem, it is equally delish when roasted. Leave most of it attached to the florets. Heat a cast iron skillet or stainless pan on medium-high heat for 1 minute. Toss cauliflower with rice bran oil in a stainless bowl. Add the cauliflower to the skillet and place into the oven. Roast for 6 minutes or until cauliflower has brown edges. Remove from the oven and toss with butter and finish with chives and salt. Serve immediately.

Contributed byChef nick Brunelocal Habit

Phot

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Photo: Riley Davenport40 edible San Diego spring 2012

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When I look at my rather barren front yard—you certainly can’t accuse me of growing grass—and try to envision vegetables and fruit growing there, or at least drought-tolerant plants, I have a complete failure of imagination. My intentions are good but my vision is lacking and I just don’t know where to begin.

Ivette Soler to the rescue! Soler—garden designer, writer and passionate cook—is author of The Edible Front Yard, an extensive step-by-step resource on creating edible gardens with curb appeal. With her thorough instructions, I may yet have success converting my neglected plot of hard dirt into a beautiful edible paradise.

Soler starts with the concept that where front yards are concerned, beauty does indeed matter. Sure, you can throw in a couple of raised beds and some plant starts and feel virtuous about your productive “landscaping.” But how your house looks all year long affects how you

feel about it and how your neighbors feel about you. By following Soler’s rules for front yard edibles, you can have both form and function.

According to Soler, “There really is no reason to hide the food we grow behind the backyard fence—these plants are just as ornamental as most of the plants that inhabit front yards across America. Edibles are dynamic—they grow quickly, flower, give us fruits and vegetables—and the colors and forms rival the choicest plants in specialty nurseries.”

From discovering your style, selecting your plants, planning and designing (including sample layouts) to considering the sun and shade aspects of your particular yard, pest control and watering systems, The Edible Front Yard pretty well covers it all in a charming way that is easy to understand and enjoyable.

Soler gives great tips like these:

“If you must plant less ornamental edibles in the front yard..., pay extra attention to your hardscape. It’s a lot easier to overlook wilted cucumber leaves if they are supported by a beautiful trellis.”

“Snails are raging alcoholics and can’t resist beer. Better they drown than snack on your lettuce or golden oregano.”

Make your yard beautiful and delicious with edibles!

edible review

Celebrating Sustainable FoodBuilding Healthy CommunitiesPromoting Food Justice

Slow Food is committed to preserving food traditions and reviving the table as a center of family and community.

Join Slow Food and make a real difference.Slow Food San Diego • slowfoodsandiego.netSlow Food Temecula Valley • temeculavalleyslowfood.orgSlow Food Urban San Diego • slowfoodurbansandiego.org


ARTS

SAN DIEGO ITALIAN FILM FESTIVAL Cine Cucina celebrates Italian film and food. Monthly screenings of first run Italian films (w/subtitles) at Museum of Photographic Arts, 3/22, 4/26, 5/24/12 and 5/26 at The Birch North Park Theatre • sandiegoitalianfilmfestival.com; mopa.org/calendar

CATERING

INDULGE CONTEMPORARY CATERING Indulge Contemporary Catering is a custom caterer and designer specializing in weddings, events, and corporate accounts. 277 3rd Ave., Chula Vista • 619-934-5700 • indulgewithstyle.com

CONSTRUCTION

BERKLEY CONSTRUCTIONGeneral contractor offering green building services, home energy evaluation, and home remodeling. • 619-981-4582 • berkhome.com

EDUCATION

ART ACADEMY OF SAN DIEGOFeatures fine arts classes and workshops taught by professional artists throughout the year. 3784 30th Street, San Diego • (619) 231-3900 • artacademyofsandiego.com

CUPSOffers a variety of intimate, hands-on cooking classes in their state-of-the-art teaching kitchen for experienced cooks and beginners alike. 7857 Girard Avenue, La Jolla • (858) 459-CUPS (2877) • cupslj.com

FARMS AND FARMERS’ MARKETS

BRIAN’S FARMERS’ MARKETSServing the Mission Hills (W), UTC (Th), Imperial Beach (F), Golden Hill (Sat) and Point Loma (Sun) areas with weekly markets and a unique farmers’ market CSA. Produce, flowers, bread, honey, olive oil, pastured chicken and rabbit, local fish, prepared foods and crafts.

EBT Market Bucks accepted. • (619) 795-3363 • sdmarketmanager.com

DEL MAR FARMER’S MARKETLocated in the Del Mar City Hall parking lot. Open from 1-4 pm on Saturdays year round. Fine crafted cheese, fresh fish, honey, fruit, vegetables, flowers, prepared foods and crafts. 1050 Camino Del Mar • (760) 521-0643

HILLCREST FARMERS’ MARKETEvery Sunday from 9-2pm at the DMV. Locally grown, in-season produce, meat, fish, bread, artisan foods, gifts, arts, crafts and flowers, and a wide variety of hot prepared food items with an emphasis on international cuisine. 3960 Normal Street • (619) 299-3330 • hillcrestfarmersmarket.com

MORNING SONG FARMCCOF Certified Organic Farm and CSA program produces a wide variety of subtropical fruit, vegetables and nuts. • (888) 816-3335 • morningsongfarm.com; morningsongfarm.blogspot.com/

NORTH SAN DIEGO FARMERS’ MARKETOpen every Wednesday, 11-2pm, and Sundays, 10-4 pm, at the Sikes Adobe Historic Farmstead, a beautiful environment supporting local artisans and farmers. I-15 at Via Rancho Pkwy, Escondido • northsdfarmersmarket.com

RON LACHANCE FARMERS’ MARKETSServing Mira Mesa (Tue, 3-7), Kearny Mesa (Fri, 10:30-1:30) and Leucadia (Sun, 10-2) farmers’ markets. Local farm-fresh produce, seafood, bread, flowers and specialty foods. • (858) 272-7054

SANTEE MARKETEvery Wednesday from 3-7pm in the abandoned school parking lot. Fresh, sustainable produce, bread, pastured chicken, cheese and more. 10445 Mission Gorge Road • (619) 449-8427

SD WEEKLY MARKETSServing Pacific Beach (Tue), North Park (Thu), and Little Italy (Sat) with weekly markets offering cheese, pastured meats, local seafood, honey, fruit, vegetables, flowers, prepared foods and crafts. Don’t miss the Market Basket Shop,

519 W. Date St. in Little Italy, open 7 days a week. • (619) 233-3901 • sdweeklymarkets.com

SUZIE’S FARM & SUNGROWNSan Diego based organic farm and CSA grows, sells and delivers USDA certified organic produce and micro greens to chefs 5 days a week, and to the public at many local farmers’ markets and through their CSA. (619) 662-1780 • suziesfarm.com • (800)995-7776 • sungrownorganics.com

FOOD REVIEWS & DISCUSSIONS

LET THERE BE BITELTBB helps you make the best food choices at your local store and online from trusted vendors, and provides tips on becoming your own four-star chef. • lettherebebite.com

FOODIE DESTINATIONS

ALCHEMYAlchemy serves light, healthy, sophisticated cultural fare, craft beer and cocktails. Small bites, substantial tapas and full size entrees made from high-quality ingredients and local produce. 1503 30th Street, San Diego • (619) 255-0616 • alchemysandiego.com

BLIND LADY ALE HOUSEA certified purveyor of honest pints, BLAH offers a “finely curated” lineup of local and craft brews, Neapolitan style pizza topped with fresh made mozzarella, local veggies and charcuterie housemade from sustainably produced meat. 3416 Adams Avenue, San Diego • (619) 255-2491 • blindladyalehouse.com

BLUE RIBBON ARTISAN PIZZERIASupports local farmers’ markets and sustainable practices. Pizzas fired in a true wood burning oven feature house-made dough, fennel sausage from sustainable Berkshire pork, hand-stretched fresh mozzarella. Produce is local and organic. 897 South Coast Hwy 101, Encinitas • (760) 634-7671 • blueribbonpizzaria.com

BROOKLYN GIRL EATERYLocally owned and family operated. A casual neighborhood American eatery with a sustainable farm-to-table attitude, full “artisanal” bar with a great selection of locally produced craft beers on tap, and an extensive and affordable wine list. 4033 Goldfinch • (619) 296-4600 • brooklyngirleatery.com

BURGER LOUNGEGreat tasting hamburgers made from healthy ingredients produced in a sustainable environment. Their simple premium quality menu appeals to health conscious diners, vegetarians, salad lovers and diners wanting a great hamburger.Kensington, Coronado, Little Italy, Hillcrest, Gaslamp and La Jolla. burgerlounge.com

CARNITA’S SNACK SHACK“The Shack” serves slow food-inspired, pork-centric American cuisine, and snacks. Poultry, produce, beer and bread are locally sourced, with Niman Ranch beef and Vande Rose pork. 2632 University Avenue, San Diego • (619) 294-7675 • carnitassnackshack.com

COLLABORATION KITCHENFun, educational monthly cooking demos with top San Diego chefs. Brought to you by Catalina Offshore Products and Specialty Produce. facebook.com/collaborationkitchen

EL TAKE IT EASYCraft cocktails and locally sourced kitchen incorporating flavors of San Diego, Ensenada and Mexican wine country in unique and delicious dishes. 3926 30th Street, San Diego • (619) 291-1859 • eltakeiteasy.com

FARM HOUSE CAFEChef Olivier Bioteau and wife Rochelle present rustic, country French cuisine in a quality, affordable neighborhood eatery. Featuring local, fresh and seasonally appropriate produce, meat and cheese. Excellent and eclectic wine selection. 2121 Adams Avenue, San Diego • (619) 269-9662 • farmhousecafesd.com

HARNEY SUSHIA perennial “best sushi” pick of San Diegans, Harney serves up tasty and beautiful sushi made with sustainably harvested fish. 3964 Harney Street, San Diego • (619) 295-3272 & 301 Mission Avenue, Oceanside • (760) 967-1820 • harneysushi.com

FISH 101Local and seasonal fish, shellfish and produce highlighted here. All seafood is sourced in accordance with Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Program. 1468 N Coast Hwy 101, Encinitas • (760) 943-6221 • fish101restaurant.com

JSIXCooks Confablieri member Executive Chef Christian Graves embraces farm-to-table and boat-to-pan cooking by sourcing locally and using made-from-scratch methods. His thoughtful and inspiring cuisine is always delicious and delightful. 616 J Street, San Diego • (619) 531-8744 • jsixrestaurant.com

LOCAL HABITLocal Habit seeks to create a community based around local organic produce, meats and craft brewed beers. Hand-crafted pizzas, sandwiches and small plates featuring the freshest produce from local organic farmers and award-winning craft brews. 3827 5th Avenue, San Diego • (619) 795-4770 • mylocalhabit.com

THE RED DOOR RESAURANT AND WINE BARA casually elegant neighborhood hangout.Using organic produce sourced from their own 1/2 acre garden, local seafood and humanely

resources & AdvertisersWhen you visit, please thank these advertisers

for their support of Edible San Diego.

Find a complimentary copy of Edible San Diego at any of our advertisers and at local farmers’ markets. Other distribution spots are listed on ediblesandiego.com.


raised meat, Chef Miguel Valdez produces re-imagined versions of familiar dishes. 741 W. Washington Street, San Diego • (619) 295-6000 • thereddoorsd.com

RED MARLINAt the Hyatt on scenic Mission Bay, this modern, yet warm waterfront restaurant offers a sophisticated menu by Chef de Cuisine Danny Bannister with many sustainable, locally sourced ingredients. Casual enough for an afternoon appetizer, and impressive enough for a very special occasion. 1441 Quivira Road San Diego • (619) 221-4868 • hyatt.com/gallery/redmarlin/site.html

RITUAL TAVERNUnpretentious, warm and pretty. The Ritual serves humanely raised natural Niman meat, Jidori chicken, sustainable seafood, and locally grown organic vegetables in simple, delicious dishes. Great wine and craft beer menu. 4095 30th Street, San Diego • (619) 283-1720 • ritualtavern.com

STARLITEDinner. Cocktails. Late night dining. Starlite offers handmade cuisine that uses the year-round abundant produce available locally. The menu changes frequently to accommodate seasonal products available in San Diego. 21 and up. 3175 India Street, San Diego • (619) 358-9766 • starlitesandiego.com

THE FISHERYWith a premier seafood market at the center of the restaurant, Chef Paul Arias’s menu is market driven and changes seasonally, using sustainably raised and caught fish and fresh, local produce. Try the 3-course “Tuesday Tastings.” Optional wine pairings. 5040 Cass Street, San Diego • (858) 272-9985 • thefishery.com

THE LINKERYSetting the bar for local and sustainable in San Diego, the Linkery serves great food made with local produce, handmade sausages, local seafood and pastured meats,.Ten taps of local craft beer, and local wine. Open every day and late every night. 3794 30th Street, San Diego • (619) 255-8778 • thelinkery.com

GARDEN RESOURCES

ARMSTRONG GARDEN CENTERSArmstrong Garden Centers are 100% employee owned and committed to earth-friendly and sustainable practices. 8 locations in our region: Morena, Mission Valley, Del Mar, Rancho Penasquitos, El Cajon, Encinitas, Carlsbad and Temecula. • armstronggarden.com

GARDNER & BLOOMEHelping create beautiful gardens for over 85 years, find Gardner & Bloome premium organic garden soil, potting soil, mulch and fertilizer products at Anderson’s La Costa, Myrtle Creek, Plant World, Ganter and El Plantio Nurseries in the North County. • kellogggarden.com

REVOLUTION LANDSCAPESpecializing in the design, installation and maintenance of edible gardens and eco-friendly, water wise landscapes for businesses and private residences. • (858) 337-6944 • revolutionlandscape.com

SAN DIEGO BOTANIC GARDENExplore four miles of garden trails, enjoy flowering trees, majestic palms, and the nation’s largest bamboo collection. Plants from all over the world thrive here and the topography provides a variety of micro climates all within 37 acres. 230 Quail Gardens Drive, Encinitas • (760) 436-3036 • SDBGarden.org

URBAN PLANTATIONSThe Urban Plantations staff has over 25 years experience providing home orchard care, garden coaching and permaculture solutions, including complete garden installation. They can teach you how to care for your garden organically, keeping your soil and plants healthy. 1010 University Ave. #1877, San Diego • (619) 563-5771 • urbanplantations.com

GROCERY

BARONS MARKETBarons has four neighborhood markets with a large selection of natural and specialty food, like grass fed beef, organic cereal and bread, and local craft beer, at low prices. The organic produce section is expanding, with many locally sourced items. Point Loma • Rancho Bernardo • Temecula • Wildomar/Murrieta • baronsmarket.com

JIMBO’S... NATURALLY!A local, family owned grocery with four locations that provides the highest quality organic and natural foods at reasonable prices. Jimbo’s is committed to supporting organic growing practices, and they are staunch supporters of the drive to label GMOs. 4S Ranch • Escondido • Carlsbad • Carmel Valley • jimbos.com

SOL MARKETSReal Food. Close to home. SOL (Seasonal, Organic, Local) Markets’ goal is to offer the freshest, healthiest locally sourced (within 100 or so miles) foods seven days a week. Liberty Station, 2855 Perry Road, San Diego • (619) 795-6000 • solmarkets.com

HEALTH & BEAUTY

LIVE INSPIRED TODAYClea Shannon, founder of Live Inspired Today, will be your guide, advocate, coach and trainer on your journey to Live Inspired Today to help you make daily choices that establish a sense of balance and quality of life through fitness of mind, body and spirit. (619) 567-9642 • cleashannon.com

RADIANCE YOGA & THERAPEUTIC CENTERThe experienced, caring teachers at Radiance guide you through the postures gradually at a comfortable yet challenging pace. Yoga, therapeutic yoga, prenatal and kid’s yoga, personal fitness and massage therapy offered. Private and group classes daily. • (619) 299-1443 • radyoga.com

THRIVE WELLNESSThrive wellness in Hillcrest is geared towards education, fitness training and lifestyle programs. Acupuncturists, massage therapists and other specialty doctors help you reach your highest goals in health and nutrition. They stock many health products too. 4080 Centre Street, Suite 202, San Diego • (619) 795-4422 • thrivewellness.com

HOME & GARDEN LIVING

FRENCH GARDEN SHOPPENatural home and garden furnishing store in Little Italy with many elegantly crafted, durable items. Find a wonderful array of indoor and outdoor furnishings, kitchenware, candles, linens, specialty foods and cards. 2307 India Street, San Diego • (619) 238-4700 • frenchgardenshoppe.com

PROGRESSProgress stocks conscientious products for the home and garden, sourced from small design studios. They are passionate about quality and accessible pricing. 2225 30th Street, San Diego • (619) 280-5501 • progresssouthpark.com

MEAT

GREEN BEEFSan Diego’s premier grass fed beef CSA. The Kubitschek family has been raising grass-fed beef since 1968. Once a month they deliver CSA shares of their healthy, fresh and delicious AGA Tier 1, AWA approved grass-fed beef to two convenient locations in the county. Give Green Beef a try to find out just how good it tastes. • (888) 524-1484 • eatgreenbeef.com

TAJ FARMSA CSA/subscription farm in the rural foothills of Valley Center selling pastured turkey, chicken, goat, pork, rabbit and beef. The TAJ team is dedicated to sustainable

and responsible agriculture practices and creating safe and healthy food. • (760) 670-7012 • TAJfarms.net

T&H PRIME MEATS AND SAUSAGEArtisan Sausage Meister Jacob Kappeler learned the art of sausage making in Switzerland. His honey cured hams and turkeys received Grand Champion status, and his Polish Kielbasa was judged the best in California 2 years in a row. State-of-the-art facility can handle year-round custom cut, smoke and wrap service for all wild game and farm-raised animals. At Vista and Hillcrest farmers markets. • 735 E. Mission Rd., San Marcos • (760) 471-9192 • tandhsausage.com

ORGANIZATIONS

SD COUNTY FARM BUREAUA non-profit association of farmers and ranchers advocating for local farmers since 1913. Membership is open to all, helps your local farmers, and has many benefits. • (760) 745-3023 • sdfarmsbureau.org

SLOW FOODSlow Food has been supporting good food in San Diego and Riverside counties since 2001. Be a part of the growing national movement to reclaim and preserve good food and food traditions by participating on a local level. slowfoodsandiego.org slowfoodurbansandiego.orgtemeculaslowfood.org

PET CARE

DEXTER’S DELISuppliers of all natural diet and supplements for dogs and cats, including fresh raw foods and selected natural dry and canned foods. All are “human-grade” and chemical free and chosen to keep your pet strong and healthy. 2 locations, Carlsbad, (760) 720-7507, and Del Mar, (858) 792-3707 • dextersdeli.com

RESTAURANT SUPPLIES

SPECIALTY PRODUCELocal, organic and sustainably sourced produce from over a dozen farms each week. We promote freshly picked, organic produce that hasn’t traveled thousand of miles or sat on grocery shelves. 1929 Hancock Street #150, San Diego • (619) 295-3172 • specialtyproduce.com

SUN GROWNSungrown cultivates six categories of quality produce: micro-greens, micro-herbs, sprouts, micro-mixes, edible blossoms and specialty greens and shoots. Also Available through Suzie’s Farms. Call to order • (800) 995-7776 • fax (619) 662-1779 • sungrownorganics.com


SEAFOOD

CATALINA OFFSHORE PRODUCTSWholesale seafood market open to the public, offering fresh sushi grade fish, fresh local fish and shellfish. Featuring cooking demos on Saturdays. 5202 Lovelock Street, San Diego • (619) 297-9797 • catalinaop.com

PACIFIC SHELLFISHLocally owned and operated for over 30 years. Fish, shrimp and lobster are wild caught unless specified otherwise. Seasonal and subject to availability. 5040 Cass St. Pacific Beach • (858) 272-9940 • fax (858) 272-9615 • thefishery.com/wholesale

SPECIALTY RETAILERS

CURDS AND WINECurds and Wine is your source for home winemaking and cheesemaking supplies. Large selection of wine kits and you can make wine at the shop! Good variety of cheesemaking cultures and equipment available and cheesemaking demonstrations at the shop. 7194 Clairemont Mesa Blvd., San Diego • (858) 384-6566 • curdsandwine.com

GLUTEN NOT INCLUDED (GNI)Gluten-free bread, croutons and pizza crust is great for those who live a gluten-free lifestyle, by choice or by necessity. Those with celiac disease must follow a gluten-free diet, and it’s also been shown that eating gluten-free can have a positive effect on allergies and dermatitis. 225 S. Escondido Blvd., Escondido • (760) 432-6100 • gnibakery.com

SOLAR RAINSolar Rain is the superior choice for bottled water users. The water is delicious and harvested from the ocean off San Diego’s coast, vaporized and purified locally, then sold throughout San Diego County in biodegradable bottles. • (760) 751-8867 • solarrainwatery.com

WINE

CARRUTH CELLARSCarruth Cellars is a boutique urban winery in the heart of the Cedros Design District with a tasting room open to the public five days a week. 320 Cedros Avenue #400, Solana Beach • (858) 847-9463 • carruthcellars.com

TRIPLE B RANCHESTriple B Ranches is a family business dedicated to producing San Diego’s finest wine grapes and premier estate wines made from those grapes. Grown, aged and bottled entirely within San Diego County, the wines truly demonstrate the unique qualities of our region. • (760) 749-1200 • triplebranches.com

VESPER VINEYARDSThe goal of Vesper Vineyards is to expose wine drinkers to the diverse micro climates San Diego has to offer in one winery. We not only support local grapes and wine, but all local agriculture and cuisine. • (760) 749-1300 • vespervineyards.com

RADIO

KSDS JAZZ 88.3 FMKSDS is a full-time mainstream/traditional Jazz radio station, licensed to the San Diego Community College District, broadcasting 24 hours a day from the campus of San Diego City College. A part of the San Diego City College Foundation, KSDS Jazz88.3 is a nonprofit 501c3 organization. jazz88.org

SOLAR

CLARY SOLARResidential and commercial solar installation and help with government incentives and private financing. Their goal is to make sure you receive the most comprehensive financial solution and the best engineering design and equipment. Free consultation. 2 locations in our region: Sorrento Valley, (888) 662-4743, and Palm Desert, (888) 662-4743, ext. 104. • Clarysolar.com

LOCAL MARKETPLACE


1503 30th Street in South Park619.255.0616

www.alchemysandiego.com

Cultural Fare & Cocktailsserved nightly

Brunch on Weekends

Car

ruth Cellars

W

inery on Cedros

• Featuring California North Coast Reds, Russian River Chardonnay and Lake Country Sauvignon Blanc

• Newly expanded tasting room with wine lounge

• Low-sulfite wine in reusable bottles

• Organic wine from sustainably grown grapes

Tasting room open to public Mon.–Sat. 12pm to 9pm Sunday 12pm to 6pm Cellar Club Members taste for free.

320 South Cedros Ave. #400 Solana Beach 858-847-WINE (9463) carruthcellars.com

Behind every great seafood restaurant is a warehouse stocked with fresh fish

5040 Cas s Street, North Pacific Beach 858-272-9985 Wholesale: 858-272-9940

www.thefishery.com

Providing the finest quality wholesale seafood for over 30 years.Locally owned & committed to seafood sustainability

and environmental responsibility.

Pacific Shellfish


Photo: Carole Topalian spring 2012 edible San Diego 49

farmers’ marketsMOnDaY

Escondido—Welk Resort8860 Lawrence Welk Dr. off Old Hwy 3951–sunset fall/winter3–7 pm spring/summer760-751-4193

tUeSDaY

Coronado 1st St. & B Ave. , Ferry Landing2:30–6 pm760-741-3763

Escondido *Grand Ave. btwn Juniper & Kalmia3:30–7 pm May to Sept2:30–6 pm Oct to Apr760-745-8877

Mira Mesa *Mira Mesa High School10510 Reagan Rd.3–7 pm (3–6 pm winter)858-272-7054

Otay Ranch—Chula Vista2015 Birch Rd. and Eastlake Blvd.4–8 pm (4–7 pm winter)619-279-0032

Pacific Beach Bayard & Garnet 2–6:30 pm 619-233-3769

UCSD/La JollaUCSD Campus, Town Square at Gilman/Meyers10 am –2 pm (Sept. 30 to June)858-534-4248

WeDneSDaY

Carlsbad *Roosevelt St. btwn Grand Ave. & Carlsbad Village Dr.1–5 pm 760-687-6453

Encinitas–Downtown Opening Soon Corner of E St. & Vulcan5–8 pm, May-Sept 4–7 pm, Oct-Apr encinitas101.com

Mission HillsFalcon St. btwn West Washington & Ft. Stockton 3–7 pm (3–6 pm winter) 619-795-3363

North San Diego Sikes Adobe Farmstead12655 Sunset Dr. Escondido11–2 pm 858-735-5311

Ocean Beach4900 block of Newport Ave.4–7 pm (summer 4–8 pm)619-279-0032

San Marcos *#Cal State San Marcos 333 S. Twin Oaks Valley Rd. 1–sunset, (3–7 pm summer)760-751-4193

Santee *#10445 Mission Gorge Rd.3–7 pm 619-449-8427

Temecula*40820 Winchester Rd. btwn Macy’s & JC Penney9 am–1 pm760-728-7343

Tu MercadoUniversity of San Diego Campus 5998 Alcalá Park, btwn Marian Way & Morris Dr.11 am–2 pm

tHUrSDaY

Chula VistaCenter St. off Third Ave.3–7 pm (3–6 pm fall/winter)619-422-1982

Horton Square San Diego 225 Broadway & Broadway Circle11 am–3 pm, March to Nov.760-741-3763

Linda Vista *# 6900 Linda Vista Rd. Btwn Comstock & Ulric2–7 pm year round760-751-4193

North ParkCVS Pharmacy 3151 University & 32nd St.3–7 pm year round619-233-3769

Oceanside Market & Faire *Pier View Way & Coast Hwy. 1019 am –1 pm619-440-5027

Oceanside SunsetTremont & Pier View Way5–9 pm (winter 4–8 pm)760-754-4512

SDSUCampanile Walkway btwn Hepner Hall & Love Library10 am–3 pm www.clube3.org

Seeds @ City Urban Farm14th & C Sts.San Diego City College9:30–11:30 am www.Sdcity.edu/SeedsatCity

University Town Center Genesee Ave. at UTC Westfield Shopping Plaza3–7 pm619-795-3363

FriDaY

Borrego SpringsChristmas Circle Comm. Park 7 am–noon, Nov.–June 760-767-5555

Fallbrook 102 S. Main at Alvarado 10 am–2 pm760-390-9726

Imperial Beach *Seacoast Dr. at Pier PlazaOct-Mar, 2–6 pm, Apr-Sep, 2–7:30 pm619-397-1917

Kearny MesaNorth Island Credit Union pkg lot5898 Copley10:30 am–1:30 pm858-272-7054

La Mesa Village * Corner of Spring St. & University 2–6 pm NEW Hours!619-440-5027

Rancho BernardoBernardo Winery parking lot13330 Paseo del Verano Norte9 am–noon760-500-1709

Southeast San Diego*#4981 Market St. (west of Euclid Av Trolley stop)2–6 pm619-262-2022

SatUrDaY

Carlsbad *Roosevelt St. btwn Grand Ave. & Carlsbad Village Dr.1–5 pm 760-687-6453

City Heights *!#On Wightman St. btwn Fairmount & 43rd St.9 am–1 pm760-751-4193

Del Mar1050 Camino Del Mar1–4 pm760-586-0373

Golden Hill B St. btwn 27th & 28th Sts.9:30 am–1:30 pm619-795-3363

Little Italy MercatoDate St. (Kettner to Union)9 am–1:30 pm619-233-3769

Pacific Beach4150 Mission Blvd.8 am–noon760-741-3763

Poway *Old Poway Park14134 Midland Rd. at Temple8–11:30 am619-440-5027

Ramona *1855 Main St. (K-Mart pkg lot)9 am–1 pm760-788-1924

Scripps Ranch10380 Spring Canyon Rd. &Scripps Poway Parkway9 am–1 pm858-586-7933

Temecula *Old Town TemeculaSixth & Front St.8 am–12:30 pm760-728-7343

Vista *County Courthouse325 Melrose Dr. South of Hwy 788 am–noon760-945-7425

SUnDaY

Gaslamp San Diego400 block of Third Ave.9 am–1 pm619-279-0032

Hillcrest DMV parking lot3960 Normal & Lincoln Sts.9 am–2 pm619-237-1632

JulianWynola Farms Marketplace 4470 Hwy 78, 3 miles west of Julian11 am–4 pm760-885-8364

La Jolla Open AireLa Jolla Elem. SchoolGirard Ave. & Genter 9 am–1 pm760-525-5947

Leucadia *Paul Ecke Central School185 Union St. & Vulcan St.10 am–2 pm858-272-7054

Murrieta *Village Walk PlazaI-15, exit west on Calif. Oaks/Kalmia9 am–1 pm760-728-7343

North San Diego Sikes Adobe Farmstead12655 Sunset Dr. Escondido10–3 pm (11–4 pm summer) 858-735-5311

Point Loma #Corner of Cañon & Rosecrans9:30 am–2:30 pm 619-795-3363

Rancho Santa Fe Del Rayo Village16079 San Dieguito Rd.9 am–1:30 pm ; 10 am–2 pm fall/winter858-922-5135

Solana Beach410 to 444 South Cedros Ave. 1–5 pm858-755-0444

* Market vendors accept WIC (Women, Infants, Children Farmers’ Market checks)

# Market vendors accept EBT (Electronic Benefit Transfer)

! Currently only City Heights accepts WIC Farmers’ Market Checks and the WIC Fruit and Vegetable Checks.

All San Diego County markets listed except SDSU and Seeds@City are certified by the County Agricultural Commissioner. Please visit ediblesandiego.com and click on “Resources” for more complete information and links to farmers’ market websites.

883fm.commercial free radio

AZJ ZSan Diego Sessions

Showcasing San Diego’s local jazz. Sponsored by Edible San Diego.

Hosted by San Diego UT’s George Varga

Sundays 5-6 p.m. Voted Jazz Station

of the Year by JazzWeek Magazine

jazz88.orgA broadcast service

of the San Diego Community College

District

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Edible San Diego - Spring 2012 Issue

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