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[ELLEBEAUTySPOTLIGHT ON .

GLUCOSAM NEn their quest for the next It Ingredi­ent, dermatologists often find inspi­ration in the most unexpectedplaces-Antarctic glaciers, Japanesesake breweries, and, apparently, theorthopedics ward. Take glucosamine,a natural sugar derivative first trum-

peted a decade ago for its ability to improvejoint pain in arthritis patients. As an oral sup­plement, the compound has been shown to

stimulate the key materials- including hyal­uronic acid-that make up new cartilage.Topically, the does-it-all active sloughs deadcells, soothes redness, zaps brown spots, andboosts hydration-making it the skin-careequivalent of Renaissance man Justin Tim­berlake, except that it's saving your faceinstead of the entertainment industry.

"Glucosamine gently exfoliates the com­plexion by encouraging cell turnover," saysOakland, California-based dermatologistKatie Rodan, MD, who cofounded Rodan

+ Fields skin care. "It allows you to get allthe benefits-without the irritation-of an

AHA or BHA. As a result, skin is primedto receive active ingredients that follow."

But unlike other exfoliants, which typi­cally have a stripping effect, glucosaminestrengthens cells' natural moisture barrier.According to two clinical tests conducted

by Clinique (which uses the ingredient inits new Medical line), study participantswho applied a glucosamine-laced skin-

care regimen for two weeks before receiv­ing a professional IPL laser treatment or a

TCA chemical peel experienced less post­treatment redness and showed significantimprovement in texture and tone than a

control group.Additionally, glucosamine possesses anti­

inflammatory properties that might helpcells regenerate faster, increasing the rate ofwound-healing. A study published lastMarch in TheJournal of Trauma: Injury, InJec­tion, and Critical Care found that mice whose

wounds were dressed with Poly-N-acetylglucosamine patches for one hour experi­enced 90 percent closure nine days earlierthan untreated mice. "It remains to be seen

whether or not this is true for humans," saysManhattan dermatologist Neil Sadick, MD."But since glucosamine strengthens cell bar­riers, it certainly makes sense."

Perhaps the most exciting feature inthe ingredient's multitasking repertoire,however, is its potential use as a brown­

spot-battling agent: In vitro research sug­gests that glucosamine could be a potent

alternative to hydro quinone. Last year, adouble-blind study funded by P&G andpublished in the Journal of Cosmetic Derma­

tology reported that N-acetyl glucosamine,a more stable version of the substance,

reduced the appearance of hyperpigmen­tation in eight weeks. "We saw a signifi­cant improvement on the side of the face

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1SK-II Signs Wrinkle Serum and Olay Definity NightAnti-Spot Treatment contain P&G's stabilizedqlucosamine; Clinique Medical Skin ConditioningTreatment preps the face for derm procedures.

that was exposed to N -acetyl glucosamineversus the side that received a placebo,"says consulting P&G Beauty scientist andstudy author Donald L. Bissett, PhD. Al­

though not quite as powerful as hydro qui­none, glucosamine also inhibits tyrosinase,the key enzyme that causes melanin pro­duction. "But it's better tolerated on a vari­

ety of skin types," Bissett says.Skeptics wonder if glucosamine, a partic­

ularly large molecule, can penetrate cellsdeep enough to make a difference in the

complexion. "I don't think that's really anissue," Rodan counters. "Where you want itto be is on the skin's surface, because that'swhere it works best."-Nool'IKA J1f,ILllOTnA