ESMOD Editions' 2016 catalogue

CATALOGUE

2016

www.esmod-editions.com

Design © Evin Tison / Photo © Gaëtan Caputo

FASHION DESIGNPATTERN DRAFTINGFASHION CULTURE

21

Cré

atio

n •

Cre

atio

n

BY WHO? Design studio (its composition depends on the company’s

size and structure) ;Product manager• This job requires certain essential qualities and compe-

tences such as:• curiosity (it is important to be clever: know where to fi nd

things and wander o the beaten path);• creativity;• autonomy;• intuition;

• a capacity to analyze, synthesize and adapt (know how to

translate a trend into shapes, fabrics and colors);

• dynamism and reactivity;• mastery of computer skills (for a verbal presentation);

• an ability to defend one’s work;• humility: since this work is often done in a team, it is

important to be able to listen and eventually question

your own ideas.

PAR QUI ? Studio créa (sa composition dépend de la taille et de la

structure de la société) ;Chef de produitCe travail requiert certaines qualités et compétences

incontournables telles que :• curiosité (il faut être astucieux : savoir où chercher et

sortir des sentiers battus) ;• créativité ;• autonomie ;• intuition ;• capacité d’analyse, de synthèse et d’adaptation (savoir

traduire une tendance ou un thème en formes,

matières et couleurs) ;• dynamisme et réactivité ;• maîtrise de l’outil informatique (pour les présentations) ;

• capacité d’argumentation ;• humilité (ce travail se fait souvent en équipe, il est

donc important d’écouter et de remettre en question

ses propres idées).

Tout peut-être source d’inspiration / Anything can be a source of inspirationCf. Parcours de création, dans la même collection.

Ex. Creative paths, fort he same collection.

13

Les jeunes maisons se composent généralement de

la manière suivante :

• Du créateur,

• D’un gestionnaire, ‘son alter égo’ responsable aussi

bien de la gestion de l’entreprise que de la stratégie

de vente et de communication.

(Souvent les créateurs travaillent en binôme (DUO

créateur/manager tel que Yves Saint Laurent et

Pierre Bergé, Thierry Mugler et Didier Grumbach,

Martin Margiela et Jenny Meirens, Marc Jacob et

Robert Du� y).

2 groupes bien distincts se dégagent de cette analyse par

leur structure et présentent un mode de fonctionnement

di� érent : le ‘créateur indépendant’ et les ‘autres’.

Nous les nommerons pour plus de facilité ‘Créateur’ & ‘PàP’.

Ils ont déterminé notre approche des Étapes de collections.

Smaller companies are generally composed in the

following way:

• Designer,

• Director/manager, the designer’s ‘alter-ego’, respon-

sable for managing the company as well as sales

and communication strategies.

(Often designers work as part of a pair – well-known

designer/manager tandems include Yves Saint Laurent

& Pierre Bergé, Thierry Mugler & Didier Grumbach,

Martin Margiela & Jenny Meirens, Marc Jacobs &

Robert Du� y).

2 distinct groups stand out in this analysis by their structure,

indicating a fashion that functions di� erently : the ‘independent

designer’ and the ‘others’.

To make things simpler, we will call them ‘Designer’ & ‘RTW’.

They will determine our approach in the Collection Steps.

Cycle de collection / Collection cycle

THE FASHION DESIGN PROCESSFIVE BOOKS that propose

a step-by-step approach to ALL THE CREATIVE PROCESSES in the fashion industry.

1 Creative pathsArmelle Claudé • Éric Rabiller

The first volume of “The Fashion design process” series, Creative paths lays the base for the creative process today in the fashion world. Numerous techniques and tools can help one develop ideas, stimulate methods of thinking… and create. Look at things differently, research freely, without restrictions, take time to experiment, be conscious of the context in which you must express your creativity.This is a thought process of a creative person on an every day basis.

2 Fashion drawingsSylvie Fagegaltier • Isabelle Gonnet

This second volume of the “The Fashion design process” series concentrates on tools for fashion drawing.Learn to draw your fashion creations by understan-ding the human body and how to stylize it through sketches. Each person will find a way to express his or her creativity by using basic drawing skills for women’s, men’s and children’s fashions.Imagine different poses and figures drawing to express techniques as a basis for drawing flat garments. Learn the vocabulary, shapes and details of the three clothing sectors.

4 Collection processArmelle Claudé • Valérie Praquin

This book brings you behind the scenes to understand how fashion collections are born, organized and manufactured. Though the industry may be fragmented, the collection process itself is universal in the phases which compose it and the collaborators involved. The work proposes a parallel between the work methods of a “creative” and a ready-to-wear designer.

5 Product environmentArmelle Claudé • Éric Rabiller • Thierry Petit

This book analyzes and helps conceive the identification codes a brand will use on all its communication grounds - logos, signage and packaging - without forgetting its marketing and merchandising strategies.

3 Graphic expressionsIsabelle d’Argœuves

The logical continuation of the second volume of “The Fashion design process” series on fashion drawing, Graphic expressions helps you diverge from fashion drawing basics to personalize your drawing know-how and become an illustrator.Explore the tools that will allow you to freely express your sensitivity in your creative universe by observing various methods for expression, which you can select based on your needs, desires and graphic environment.

21x29,796 pages

French / EnglishSoft cover / bound32,50 € TTC

21x29,796 pages


21x29,796 pages


21x29,796 pages


21x29,7208 pages


A SERIES OF FLAT PATTERNMAKING METHODS in different sectors of ready-to-wear.

BECOME A PATTERN DRAFTER

Grading men’s garments Nathalie Coppin

This book, the second stage in our “Become a pattern drafter”: Men’s garments series, completes the creation of garments developed earlier using a point-by-point explanation of how to change their sizes: shirts, vests, jackets, coats, blousons, parkas, jeans and tailored trousers.Conceived to respond to the needs of today’s clothing industry, it also addresses individuals passionate about sewing thanks to the choice of models used that can serve as examples for creating a multitude of other designs. Manual and computer methods are explained in partnership with the Lectra company.

Men’s garments Claire Wargnier

This method uses a logical drafting technique called “flat pattern design” that provides key formulas that apply to all fashions. A complete men’s wardrobe can be made using this method from shirts to coats: shirts, ties, vests, knitwear, tailored pants, jeans, suits, jackets and coats in all styles (classic and timeless, fashion, luxury, sport).

This book, the second stage in our “Become a pattern drafter”, Children’s garments series, completes the creation of garments developed earlier using a point-by-point explanation of how to change their sizes.Conceived to respond to the needs of today’s clothing industry, it also addresses individuals passionate about sewing thanks to the choice of models used which can serve as examples for creating a multitude of other designs. Manual methods and sizing charts for the models in a children’s wardrobe are explained.

Children’s garments Claire Wargnier

A pattern drafting manual for children’s ready-to-wear clothing that includes details on the overall shape of a child’s body from layette to adolescence, as well as the procedures for development and transformation (volumes, sleeves, collars, details) + 10 added models of garments.

Grading children’s garments Claire Wargnier

21x29,7288 pages


21x29,7112 pages


21x29,7240 pages


21x29,796 pages


Women’s garments Tome 2 Collective authorship

This method uses a logical drafting technique called “flat pattern design” that provides key formulas that apply to all fashions. A complete women’s wardrobe can be made using this method from pants to “suit-coats”: tailored pants, jeans, warm-up suits, suits, jackets and coats in all styles (classic and timeless, fashion, luxury, sport).

Women’s garments Tome 1 Collective authorship

This method uses a logical drafting technique called “flat pattern design” that provides key formulas that apply to all fashions. A complete women’s wardrobe can be made using this method. For garments called “fluid”: skirts, shirts, blouses, small tops, all styles of dresses (classic and timeless, fashion, luxury, sport).

Grading women’s garments Nathalie Coppin

This book, the third stage in our ”Become a pattern drafter / Women’s garments“ series, completes the creation of garments developed earlier using a point-by-point explanation of how to change their sizes.Conceived to respond to the needs of today’s clothing industry, it also addresses individuals passionate about sewing thanks to the choice of models used which can serve as examples for creating a multitude of other designs.21x29,7

240 pagesFrench / EnglishSoft cover / bound45,70 € TTC 21x29,7

112 pagesFrench / EnglishSoft cover / bound29,40 € TTC

21x29,7240 pages


Women’s underwear Najah Ouahab Rassas

A complement to patternmaking methods for women’s fashions, this book addresses the entire range of women’s underwear by using flat patternmaking techniques for bras, panties, bodysuits, corsets and bustiers.

21x29,7192 pages


4 books showing STEP-BY-STEP details for men’s, women’s and children’s garments.

Essential PATTERNS AND MEASUREMENT CHARTS accompany each page to help you realize all your creations.

FOCUS ON FASHION DETAILS

Tome 1 Claire Wargnier

Generalities for machine assembly, vocabulary and diagrams for all seams, yokes, buttoning plackets and the different assembly procedures for: unlined skirts, lined skirts, women’s and men’s trousers, women’s shirts, men’s shirts, women’s jackets and men’s jackets.


All pockets for all kinds of garments: patch pockets, pockets in a seam, slit pockets for shirts, dresses, tailored jackets, coats, etc.


Everything that you need to know about zippers, fly closures, waistbands, pleats and vents!


All collars, different assembly procedures for sleeves, facings for loose-fitting and tailored garments, including tailored jackets and coats, complete with different kinds of interfacings and linings.

21x29,7192 pages


21x29,7208 pages


21x29,7192 pages


21x29,7240 pages


Generalities • Seams • Buttoning tabs Yokes • Assembly procedures

Pockets

Zippers • Flies • Waistbands Pleats and Vents

Collars • Sleeves • Facings Canvas and Linings

THE GRAMMAR OF WESTERN CLOTHING

Wearing the trousers Mireille Tembouret

The second volume of our “Grammar of Western clothing” series. We continue with the rules, codes and characteristics of clothing from the past and the present. Historically linked to the men’s fashion wardrobe, breeches and trousers have, more recently, seduced and become a part of women’s fashion as well. They originally wore them for sport activities but also when they replaced men at their jobs during wartime. Women adopted trousers as a key part of their wardrobe for their practicality and representation of women’s social evolution and even their independence. Breeches, pants for leisure wear and tailored trouser shapes, functions and details followed this direction, establishing a timeless wardrobe and defining a rich language that is often forgotten today.In this second book, breeches and trousers deliver their secrets to illustrate this social evolution since today, both men AND women are… Wearing the trousers!

Keep your shirt on! Mireille Tembouret

Give the shirt off your back, don’t lose your shirt, keep your shirt on, change your shirt, a stuffed shirt... these colloquial expressions show that, over the years, the shirt was considered to be a garment intimately linked with everyday living.Worn next to the body but visible, the shirt had two important roles: hygiene and protection for the body and indicating social status.Always accessorized or accompanied by a vest, the shapes, fabrics and details on shirts, blouses and bodices have evolved to become part of a coded wardrobe that defines a rich vocabulary, often forgotten in modern times. This premise is the basis for the third book in our “Grammar of Western clothing“ series that illustrates the rules and characteristics typical of garments from yesterday and today.To read this book, relax and take off your jacket to discover blouses, bodices and vests... but keep your shirt on!

All dressed up Mireille Tembouret

Corsets, panniers, crinolines or bustles are words that no longer have significance today. But at various times throughout the history of clothing, women wore these essential pieces under their dresses and often needed help to put them on. Depending on the fashions of each period, certain parts of the body were highlighted as elements of seduction (a tiny waist, extremely wide hips, an exaggerated bottom,…). Women sought what they believed to be an ideal of perfection while obeying the strict, often extravagant codes of Fashion and social norms.It was the events surrounding World Wars I and II and then the Women’s Liberation Movement of the 1970s that finally introduced dresses which did not restrict the body.But even today, dresses still assert a woman’s femininity. Every woman has at least one precise memory of a dress that marked a key event in her life and was intrinsically associated with her joy of pleasing others!

Cover it up! Mireille Tembouret

The first volume of our ”Grammar of Western clothing” series.Men – and women – have always wrestled with the elements to protect themselves from cold or hot weather and shield against rain or snow. Though they may have wished to flatter their physique for aesthetic purposes, they were obliged to invent and adapt clothes for their everyday circumstances. The shapes, functions and details which appeared over the centuries defined a rich wardrobe, often forgotten in modern times. This ”grammar of Western clothing” gives an overview of the codes and characteristics of typical garments from yesterday and today.In this first volume, we explore the blousons, raincoats, habits, coats and jackets which… Cover us up!

20x28144 pages

French / EnglishSoft cover / bound35 € TTC

20x28128 pages


20x28144 pages


20x28144 pages


KNOW-HOW

Watch the videos

Une année de styles Ioannis Guia

What can I wear today?This book-calendar answers the question, exploring 52 fashion themes throughout the year. Starting with a foundation of 12 timeless basics, combine 60 possible outfits and give them a special flair by pairing them with other pieces or accessories. The result? 365 days of fashion to accompany each woman in different directions so she can develop her own style.

Fashion saga, 170 years of innovations Catherine Örmen

As much a history of manufacturing and ready-to-wear as a family saga, this book recounts the path of tailor Alexis Lavigne, a formidable visionary who cleverly constructed the technical foundations of Fashion. As an innovator, Alexis Lavigne dedicated himself, throughout his life, to analyzing the human body to advance and promote Paris fashion, especially thanks to his inventions which included the tapemeasure and the dress form.By opening his workshop and then transforming it into a school, this humanist launched what would become Paris’ oldest fashion school. Here is the little-known story of a school that was perpetuated, first by his descendants, then by those dedicated to his spirit. 170 years of innovation at the service of Elegance and Well-Being!

The art of tailoring Yukio Kakita

Thanks to his skills inherited from the top Parisian tailors, Yukio Kakita helps comprehend the sensitivity behind the techniques for making a suit. Follow his step-by-step explanations to understand how cuts and shapes, reinforced by the inside structure, can express your desires and take you from ready-to-wear to Luxury Womenswear to Bespoke men’s suits and thus discover … The Art of Tailoring.

The art of draping Nils-Christian Ihlen-Hansen

Thanks to Nils-Christian Ihlen-Hansen’s experience as a renowned pattern-drafter, this book tackles the difficult technique of the draped clothing in the Western culture of fashion.Transparency games and fabrics moving over the body play key roles in this subtle exercise. Draping transforms a garment into a work of art and makes pattern drafting noble through cutting techniques, choices of prestigious fabrics and dexterous manipulations. This exercise in style has always been preferred and used by the top names in fashion.

49videos

on youtube!

with

19x28,5176 pages

French Wire O / Cover with magnets34,90 € TTC

21,5x27160 pages

English Hard cover/boundPartially in canvas39,50 € TTC

22x30,5176 pages

French / EnglishHard cover/bound39,50 € TTC

22x30,5112 pages

French / EnglishHard cover/bound37 € TTC

over 500

referenced

textiles!

+

SketchbookConceived as a memory aid to use during shopping expeditions, this sketchbook of semi-transparent white pages has a fold-out jacket with basic sketches of women’s and men’s silhouettes. Color ranges with names in French and English also give a visual overview with computer reference numbers.

Textile guide Florence Ferrari

Conceived from a user viewpoint with a simple-to-read approach, this book explores technical information on fabrics while keeping in mind the difficult choices a user must make when conceiving his creations.The first part of the book looks at the textile industry (raw materials, spinners, weavers and finishers) without forgetting a lesson in fabric “hand“, a vital skill needed for selecting fabrics; the second part helps consumers learn the vocabulary, properties, qualities and defects of each fabric family: woolens, cottons, silkies, knits and innovative fabrics.Clever tips and technical details are scattered throughout the book to help the reader avoid the traps certain fabrics might hide behind their seductive appeal.

14x2150 pages


21x21156 pages


Watch the video

ARM FORM

Kapock arm covered with ecru jersey and construction lines. Shoulder tab for adapting it to the dress form. Available in a left or right arm or in pair.

45€ TTC each80€ TTC the pair

The ESMOD form was invented and registered by Alexis Lavigne in 1841, (along with the invention of the supple tape measure). The ESMOD form presently used in our network of schools is a dignified descendent of the dress form offered to Empress Eugenie by Alexis Lavigne.Since 2008, the ESMOD form adheres to the ready-to-wear clothing measurements revised in Europe’s most recent measurements campaign.

Fiberglass form + foams, covered with ecru muslin. Wooden shaft on a metallic tripod.

495 € TTC

Size 36

Size 38

Neckline measurement 35 36

Bust measurement 84 88

Waist measurement 64 68

Full hip measurement 90 94

FORM

Form in expanded polyurethane covered with ecru Jersey. Detachable wood base.108€ TTC

Illustrated by engravings of dress forms invented by Alexis Lavigne since 1841, this supple tapemeasure is an essential tool for all fashion industry professionals.

Half form of a size 38, this nomadic form allows you to research draped shapes using a mini-mum of textiles.

HALF FORM

ESMOD ALUMNI TAPEMEASURE

Waterproof supple tapemeasure 3 colors 150 cm. 7,50 € TTC

FASHION DESIGNPATTERN DRAFTINGFASHION CULTURE

[email protected], rue de Cléry 75002 ParisTél : +33 (0)1 42 33 93 36www.esmod-editions.com

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ESMOD Editions' 2016 catalogue

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