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ESPADRILLES BootsInstructions
SUPPLIES NEEDED:• Espadrille Soles• Espadrille Creative Yarn•
Espadrille Large Curved or Straight Needle• Espadrille Needle
Pullers• Espadrille Yarn Wax• Espadrille Glass Head Pins (for
attaching boot to sole)• Long, Fine Straight Pins (for sewing
Sherpa Suede fabric)• Fine Point Mark-B-Gone™ Marking Pen• Faux
Sherpa Suede Fabric – ¾ yard (30” wide) or ⅜” yard (60” wide)
• Heavy–weight non-woven interfacing – 6” x 6” piece, for heel
stabilizer• Sewing Machine Thread – all-purpose polyester to match
fabric
Optional:• Faux Leather or Vinyl Fabric – 8” x 11” piece, for
contrast heel• Heavy-weight Interfacing – 10” x 12”, for insoles•
Masking Tape (to mark left and right toes)
See sole package for additional supplies.For best results use
Dritz® Espadrilles supplies
© 2016 Prym Consumer USA Inc
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SHERPA BOOTSTips for sewing with Sherpa Suede:
PREPARATIONCut out pattern pieces on appropriate size lines.
Pattern sizes include ease for socks and pant legs. For narrow
feet, size down; for wide feet, size up. If chosen pattern size
differs from sole size, test-fit first with a trial boot made from
heavy-weight scrap fabric such as fleece.
Following pattern instructions carefully, position cut pattern
pieces onto suede surface, making sure fabric grain and nap
direction match grainline arrows; secure in place with straight
pins.
Tip: To determine nap direction, run hand back and forth over
suede surface, parallel to selvage. The direction that feels smooth
should be aligned with grainline arrows pointing toward the
sole.
Using fine point marking pen, trace pattern pieces onto suede;
transfer pattern markings such as dots, circles, and center match
lines. Do not transfer grain lines.
Cut boot pieces from Sherpa and heel stabilizer from
heavy-weight interfacing. See above cutting tips.
Tip: Toe pattern has inside and outside edges marked. Position
pattern piece face up for right toe and face down for left toe. Use
masking tape to mark pieces as LEFT and RIGHT for construction.
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BOOTS – INSTRUCTIONS
Sherpa may appear difficult to sew, but don’t be intimidated. A
few tips will make it a snap. Cut and test stitch 2 layers of
Sherpa before starting the project to see if you need any special
supplies.
• Use long straight pins with fine shafts and sharp points to
manage bulky seams smoothly and minimize pin holes. • Cut only one
layer at a time to prevent shifting. To cut both sides of one boot,
cut the pattern from one direction; then flip it over and cut its
opposite side separately. Repeat the process for the second boot.
Do not fold Sherpa and cut multiple layers at one time.• Choose
size 80/12 or 70/11 needles with Sharp, Universal or Microtex
points to penetrate suede cleanly and help prevent skipped
stitches.• Attach a non-stick Teflon, roller foot or even-feed
walking foot to keep thick fabric layers from shifting during
stitching.• Use a stitch length of 9–10 stitches per inch (about a
3mm length on most machines) to help produce straight and balanced
stitches. • Sometimes the first stitch causes bulky edges to get
caught in the feed dogs. To avoid this, start about 3 stitches in
from the edge, and stitch in reverse first, then stitch forward,
avoiding possible jams. Also, using additional lift on the presser
foot will help maneuver the fabric under the foot. • Your project
will not need pressing from step to step, but if you choose to
press the Sherpa, cover it with a protective cloth during pressing.
Use high steam to penetrate thick fibers.• After cutting out the
pieces, but before sewing, trim away excess Sherpa fluff along
suede’s cut edges so that the seam allowance width can be easily
followed during stitching.• Test marking tools and masking tape
before transferring pattern markings to fabric to avoid permanently
marring suede’s surface. Consider using straight pins to mark dots
or circles for joining pieces.
© 2016 Prym Consumer USA Inc
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CONSTRUCTIONPin WS heel to RS shaft at center back, aligning
bottom edges and matching pattern marks. Topstitch heel around
curve 1/8” from edge.
Slide heel stabilizer between heel and shaft so bottom edge is
parallel to bottom edge of shaft. Pin; topstitch ¼” from bottom
edge.
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Note: RS = Right Side, RST = Right Sides Together, WS = Wrong
Side, WST = Wrong Sides Together
Back Shaft: Pin shaft center back seam RST; stitch ½” seam from
bottom edge to dot. Clip seam allowance at dot. Pin remaining
unstitched seam allowance, WST; stitch ½” seam.
Trim seam allowance at top corners at an angle. Clip seam
allowance every ½” between circles. Keeping seam allowance open
flat, topstitch 1/4” from each side of seam line working from top
to bottom edge.
BOOTS – INSTRUCTIONS
BACK SHAFTstitch RST
BACK SHAFT CUFFStitch WST
BACK SHAFT Topstitched seam
Clip top corners
Pin Heel Support and topstitch
Insert Stabilizer Stitch bottomedge
© 2016 Prym Consumer USA Inc
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Pin toe to front shaft along instep edges, WST, matching center
front and side edges. Ease toe curve between dots to fit curve of
shaft; stitch a 1/4” seam. Trim seam allowance to 1/8” width,
exposing Sherpa to RS of boot.
Side Seams: Pin front shaft to back shaft along sides, WST;
stitch ½” seams from top to bottom. Trim seam allowance to 1/8”
width, exposing Sherpa to RS of boot.
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BOOTS – INSTRUCTIONS
FRONT SHAFTStitched RST
Front Shaft: Pin shaft center front seam RST; stitch ½” seam
from bottom edge to dot. Clip seam allowance at dot. Pin remaining
unstitched seam allowance WST; stitch ½” seam from dot to top
edge.
Trim seam allowance at top corners at an angle. Hold-ing seam
allowance open flat, topstitch 1/4” from each side of seam line
working from top to bottom edge.
Sherpa Tip: For best results, topstitch both sides of the seam
going the same direction—with the nap.
FRONT SHAFT CUFF
Stitched WST
Clip top corners.Topstitch.
Ease toebetween dots
Stitch toe to Front Shaft
© 2016 Prym Consumer USA Inc
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• Instructions call for front and back seams to be stitched RST
and topstitched. You can stitch WST and trim seam allowance as in
Step 6. Or for a more tailored look, Stitch all seams of shaft RST
and topstitch. Keep in mind however, that this option is rather
difficult to stitch when topstitching the second side seam. The
instep seam can be stitched RST, which adds a bit of internal bulk
for an improved fit on narrow feet.
• Use faux leather or vinyl for the heel support to add texture
or contrast.
• Add a zipper opening to the inside boot side seam. Since sizes
vary in length, purchase a 12” long zipper and trim it to fit the
side seam of the shaft. It should extend from top dot at cuff to ¼”
from the bottom edge. Baste and topstitch zipper to side seam.
• Create cozy insoles for extra warmth or to tighten fit. To
make the pattern, trace around edge of sole. Mea-sure and draw a
cutting line ¼” in from traced line; cut out the pattern. Fuse
heavy-weight interfacing to suede side of fabric. Using fine point
marking pen, trace pattern onto interfacing. Flip pattern over and
trace pattern again for opposite foot. Cut out and insert into
boots, Sherpa side up.
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BOOTS – INSTRUCTIONS
Topstitch around bottom edge of boot, ¼” from edge. Fold top
edge of shaft down to reverse seam allowances to create cuff.
Repeat Steps 1–9 for opposite boot.
Place soles on work surface, jute side up. Pin-mark the center
back and center toe of soles using the centering guide. To do this,
place the heel on the guide and place a pin at the center of the
heel. Pivot the sole so the longest point of the toe meets the
intersecting lines. Mark the center of the toe.
Pin the boot to the sole by first lining up the center toe and
center heel marks. Then pin the heels and sides snugly to the sole.
Ease the toe fabric to the sole between the dots. Pins should be
pushed in firmly so fabric edge lines up with sole edge.
ATTACHING BOOT TO SOLE CREATIVE OPTIONS
Line up toe atlongest point
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8910
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34
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118
© 2016 Prym Consumer USA Inc
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Hold yarn to left (away from the stitch) and in the direction of
stitching. Move over 1/4” and take a second stitch, coming up
within loop of yarn. Sharply pull yarn to secure the stitch. Hold
previous stitch in place with free hand, while taking next stitch.
This is a BLANKET STITCH. Continue to pull yarn tightly for all
stitching. (TIP: To help avoid tangles allow yarn and needle to
dangle after every few stitches.)
When shoe is completely stitched, finish off the yarn. To do
this, take your last stitch next to the beginning knot, coming up
in the same place as the first stitch.
Insert the needle down into the fabric on the opposite side of
the first stitch, coming out below one of the adjacent
stitches.
Take a small stitch under the blanket stitch and back up through
the stitch loop. Pull yarn tightly.
Insert needle back into jute below the stitch and come up close
to blanket stitching. Pull yarn tight and cut close to fabric.
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Stitching to SoleCut 3 yards of yarn. Pull through yarn wax
several times. (TIP: Press waxed yarn to help make it even
smoother.) Thread needle and knot one end. Trim excess yarn close
to knot. Begin stitching along inner edge of the sole. To start,
insert needle into jute 1/4” down from edge of sole, and then up
through sole and fabric about 1/4” from edge. (Use topstitching as
a guide while stitching shoe pieces.) Pull yarn sharply to snug
knot into jute.
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BLANKETSTITCH
BOOTS – INSTRUCTIONS
© 2016 Prym Consumer USA Inc
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