Etching PCBs With Press'n'Peel

7/26/2019 Etching PCBs With Press'n'Peel

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2/20

These days to make PCBs you dont need tons of expensive exposing equipment

and bubble tanks, it can be done quite simply on your kitchen floor or in a garage

and on a tight budget. There are many instructables already about how to create

PCB's with toner and glossy photo paper or magazine pages etc. But what if you

want something reliable, that peels straight off without any soaking?

Press n Peel is a brand of toner transfer system distributed by Tekniks. I am not

sure if they developed the technology but it seems to be a mylar like film with a blue

powdery emulsion coated onto it . This coating is very weakly adhered to the plastic

film.

The way it works is you print onto the blue side with a laser printer, then you flip it

over and iron it onto the copper. The toner re-melts and sticks to the copper ( same

as glossy paper ) but as the blue coating has poor adhesion to the sheet it comes

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FW9/S1VV/I88LLAFQ/FW9S1VVI88LLAFQ.LARGE.jpg)

About This Instructable

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3/20

unstuck as you peel it off leaving the residue only where the toner was.

It is not the only brand available though, there is also Pulsar paper and I have read

somewhere there is a far eastern company that produces it but I couldnt find any

info on this.

It is a really excellent way of producing PCBs in an instant, you can whip up a

perfect batch PCBs in 30-40 mins. It is also detailed enough to do SMD soldering

and with good alignment double sided is possible. It is not without difficulty though,

toner adhesion is still an issue and this is why I have written this guide to get

perfect results every time.

Low Cost PrototypePCB

$12 for 10pcs of 2 layersboard, 1-3days' delivery,Made

in China.

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Step 1: Materials & Preperation

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PCB (/tag/type-id/category-technology/keyw ord-

pcb/)

press'n'peel (/tag/type-id/category-

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toner transfer (/tag/type-id/category-

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etch (/tag/type-id/category-technology/keyw ord-

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ferric chloride (/tag/type-id/category-

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flux spray (/tag/type-id/category-

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4/20

See More (/tag/type-id/?q=)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FTY/CMRP/I88LLB9R/FTYCMRPI88LLB9R.LARGE.jpg)

Design a PCB using a

etch marker and ferric

chloride.

(http://www.instructables.c

Proxxon MICROMOT drill

stand MB 140/S Light


MICROMOT-drill-stand-

Making Printed circuitBoards at or Near Home:

A Comprehensive

Overv iew, Almost a Guide

PCB etching using laser

printer


etching-using-laser-

How To Make A PCB / PCB

Making Guide

(http://www.instructables.cTo-Make-A-PCB-PCB-
http://www.instructables.com/member/tdarlic/http://www.instructables.com/member/cliffyd/http://www.instructables.com/id/Making-Printed-circuit-Boards-at-or-Near-Home-A-C/?utm_source=base&utm_medium=related-instructables&utm_campaign=related_testhttp://www.instructables.com/id/Proxxon-MICROMOT-drill-stand-MB-140S-Light/?utm_source=base&utm_medium=related-instructables&utm_campaign=related_testhttp://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-A-PCB-PCB-Making-Guide/?utm_source=base&utm_medium=related-instructables&utm_campaign=related_testhttp://www.instructables.com/id/Proxxon-MICROMOT-drill-stand-MB-140S-Light/?utm_source=base&utm_medium=related-instructables&utm_campaign=related_testhttp://www.instructables.com/tag/type-id/?q=http://www.instructables.com/id/PCB-etching-using-laser-printer/?utm_source=base&utm_medium=related-instructables&utm_campaign=related_testhttp://www.instructables.com/member/Robotplatform/http://www.instructables.com/id/Design-a-PCB-using-a-etch-marker-and-ferric-chlori/?utm_source=base&utm_medium=related-instructables&utm_campaign=related_testhttp://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-A-PCB-PCB-Making-Guide/?utm_source=base&utm_medium=related-instructables&utm_campaign=related_testhttp://www.instructables.com/member/HM1522/http://www.instructables.com/member/russ_hensel/http://cdn.instructables.com/FTY/CMRP/I88LLB9R/FTYCMRPI88LLB9R.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/id/Making-Printed-circuit-Boards-at-or-Near-Home-A-C/?utm_source=base&utm_medium=related-instructables&utm_campaign=related_testhttp://www.instructables.com/id/PCB-etching-using-laser-printer/?utm_source=base&utm_medium=related-instructables&utm_campaign=related_testhttp://www.instructables.com/id/Design-a-PCB-using-a-etch-marker-and-ferric-chlori/?utm_source=base&utm_medium=related-instructables&utm_campaign=related_test


5/20

Materials

You dont need much at all, here are the materials I use

Laser printer

IronAcetone

IPA, Meths(no not crystal meth , denatured alcohol to Americans),

Acetone, lighter fluid or any kind of decreasing solvent for cleaningFine abrasive

Paper towel (Toilet paper!)

Copper BoardPressnPeel / Pulsar paper or similar

PCB drill / Dremel type hobby drill

Preparation

Designing and sizing the PCB is a whole other subject so I am going to leave it to

you. As you can see I printed 2 sheets already, it is fairly straight forward. Here is

a check list to help printing the image.

Is the image positive? toner = copperHave you flipped the image?

is your printer set to US letter?

Set toner to thickest possible setting ( usually something like OHP mode )Have you placed paper to print on the matt side? ( the wrong side is glossy )

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FML/QEBW/I88LLAHF/FMLQEBWI88LLAHF.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FJ5/BT1I/I88LLB09/FJ5BT1II88LLB09.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FBP/VDSV/I88LLAHH/FBPVDSVI88LLAHH.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FZT/33AO/I88LLAHL/FZT33AOI88LLAHL.LARGE.jpg)
http://cdn.instructables.com/FZT/33AO/I88LLAHL/FZT33AOI88LLAHL.LARGE.jpghttp://cdn.instructables.com/FML/QEBW/I88LLAHF/FMLQEBWI88LLAHF.LARGE.jpghttp://cdn.instructables.com/FBP/VDSV/I88LLAHH/FBPVDSVI88LLAHH.LARGE.jpghttp://cdn.instructables.com/FJ5/BT1I/I88LLB09/FJ5BT1II88LLB09.LARGE.jpg


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As for the board this board is dirty! Ive had it hanging around for ages so its all

oxidized and gerrreeasy! If you buy board and its fresh from the seller dont bother

sanding it down it will work fine. But if its like this just rub it down with some fine

Wet and Dry (say 1000) with water till it gets bright and even coloured, this

removes the oxidized surface making it more consistent to use when etching.

Some boards especially ones you have cut will have burrs on the edges, it is best

to sand them off as it can make the image not stick around the edges. Just lie some

sanding paper flat on the desk and rub the burred edge against it until it becomes

flat.

Whether new or old it is a good idea to de-grease the surface of the PCB. I use

IPA (no not pale ale) as its a bit less harsh on the hands, but the acetone that we

will be using later on can also be used. Just rub it down until the towel you are

rubbing it down with comes up clean.

Step 2: Place down image and get the iron!


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(http://cdn.instructables.com/FNS/G6H1/I88LLB8Y/FNSG6H1I88LLB8Y.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.ins tructables.com/FD4/8YDM/I88LLB3U/FD48YDMI88LLB3U.LARGE.jpg)
http://cdn.instructables.com/FD4/8YDM/I88LLB3U/FD48YDMI88LLB3U.LARGE.jpghttp://cdn.instructables.com/FNS/G6H1/I88LLB8Y/FNSG6H1I88LLB8Y.LARGE.jpg


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Do it!

Now . My images are all cut out separately, I have no idea why, but having all the

images on one big sheet is fine, I cut them so there is an overhang on one side to

make it easy to peel off. The next step is to make the PnP image stick to the

copper board. The beauty of PnP is that it is semi-transparent so you can align it

quite easily by holding it up to the light. I gently lay the images up then place a

piece of paper over the top, the paper helps the iron to glide over the top and

prevents the iron from catching on the film.

Equipment caution

Make sure you are doing it on a very heatproof surface! if unsure get a piece ofscrap wood or a wooden chopping board.You may have a cheap iron in which

case the coating on it is a bit poor and it creates friction, stop here if you do not

want to sand off the coating!

Heat

1. According to the instructions the iron needs to be set somewhere around WoolI put it a bit higher and had no problem. I begin by just pressing down gently

and rubbing over the entire board to get it up to temperature. Keep lifting up the

covering paper and see that is is stuck completely flat to the surface.

2. Once that is done and the board is up to heat you need pressure to fuse theimage down onto the board. Some people have a trick of using a rolling pin or

metal pipe, but I found I can get perfect results with just the iron. The trick is

knowing how long to do it, the fact is it is better to over do it than under.3. The only thing you need to be careful of is not to spread or distort the image,

this can be mistakenly done by pushing across the sheet too hard. Downward

pressure is important but we dont need hydraulic press levels!4. I start by putting the iron on its tip and rubbing the whole board left to right top to

bottom in a circular pattern. This ensures every little bit of the image has had

attention - do a bit extra around the edges as these parts tend to not stick so

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FY2/WQ0A/I88LLB5O/FY2WQ0AI88LLB5O.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FXM/RYUZ/I88LLB3R/FXMRYUZI88LLB3R.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FOR/XKXX/I88LLB5L/FORXKXXI88LLB5L.LARGE.jpg)
http://cdn.instructables.com/FXM/RYUZ/I88LLB3R/FXMRYUZI88LLB3R.LARGE.jpghttp://cdn.instructables.com/FOR/XKXX/I88LLB5L/FORXKXXI88LLB5L.LARGE.jpghttp://cdn.instructables.com/FY2/WQ0A/I88LLB5O/FY2WQ0AI88LLB5O.LARGE.jpg


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well.

5. I also put the iron on its side edge and push it across the board too, try not todo this too hard as it can move/smear the image or cause traces to spread.

Keep doing both of these processes somewhere around 5 mins is usually best.

Step 3: Cooling and Peeling

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F1D/R2SJ/I88LLAUG/F1DR2SJI88LLAUG.LARGE.jpg)
http://cdn.instructables.com/F1D/R2SJ/I88LLAUG/F1DR2SJI88LLAUG.LARGE.jpg


10/20

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FT2/QZCD/I88LLB8X/FT2QZCDI88LLB8X.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F3L/RR8N/I88LLAV5/F3LRR8NI88LLAV5.LARGE.jpg)
http://cdn.instructables.com/FT2/QZCD/I88LLB8X/FT2QZCDI88LLB8X.LARGE.jpghttp://cdn.instructables.com/F3L/RR8N/I88LLAV5/F3LRR8NI88LLAV5.LARGE.jpg


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If you peel it off whilst still hot you will not get very good results, this is because the

toner is still sticky and not set so it will come off. Cooling it down with the tap makes

it quicker than waiting although I now tend not to do this as its more of a pain to re-

iron it if it is not perfect.

Now you should be able to peel the image off, it takes a bit of practice to tell when

its right, but once you get it down you can get perfect results all the time. If any of

the image doesnt stick, you can dry it out then cut out the missing section from the

sheet and iron it down on that part of the image.

I peel the sheet back very slowly so I can spot any non fused parts before the

whole sheet is off. If it is a bit patchy I can flip it back down and give it a bit more

ironing.

This one came out perfect! if you are fussy or there is a defect you can fill those

parts with any indelible marker

Step 4: Etch

(http://cdn.instructable s.com/FEJ/FXKR/I88LLB1Y/FEJFXKRI88LLB1Y.LARGE.jpg)
http://cdn.instructables.com/FEJ/FXKR/I88LLB1Y/FEJFXKRI88LLB1Y.LARGE.jpg


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(http://cdn.instructables.com/FZX/4UT8/I88LLAYK/FZX4UT8I88LLAYK.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FDP/4E6D/I88LLAW2/FDP4E6DI88LLAW2.LARGE.jpg)
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To etch all you need is some etchant, a big enough Tupperware box with steep

sides and a container for the liquid. The most common etchant is ferric chloride,

the good thing about it is that it lasts a very long time once you mix it up and it is

cheap! The downside is that it is extremely staining and very dark so it can be hard

to see your board. It is not a dangerous chemical as long as you dont bath in it or

throw it in your eyes!

Follow the mixing instructions on your etchant ( I usually make it a bit more

concentrated than advised ) then but the board in the bottom of the box and pour

on, pouring helps to stop bubbles forming.

You will have to agitate it, this means swishing the mix around for about 5-10 mins,

it is not instant! but it is pretty obvious when the copper is almost gone as seenbelow.

The copper will not come off consistently, just swish until all the copper is gone then

pour the acid into a container for future use. It needs to have a lid! and not be

made of metal!!

When all the acid is gone, pick up the board with paper towel and rinse it under the

tap. Rinse it thoroughly until all the acid is gone, be careful of your kitchen sink!

anything metal can be tarnished with this stuff!

There are 2 ways of removing the PnP resist, either using abrasion or Acetone. I

use Acetone because it is less back breaking work and is less scratchy on the

copper. Just pour a little bit on, let it sit there for a few seconds then wipe off. If

you use the cheap paper based board like me, I am afraid this technique will stain

the board with black, this has no electrical influence, it just looks ugly. Sorry about

the Kasabian image! rubbish band.

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FBS/SDI1/I88LLAW3/FBSSDI1I88LLAW3.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FLD/VI8U/I88LLARU/FLDVI8UI88LLARU.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F8L/3423/I88LLAW1/F8L3423I88LLAW1.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.ins tructables.com/FC2/BRON/I88LLAW0/FC2BRONI88LLAW0.LARGE.jpg)

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Etching PCBs with Press'n'Peel by clacktronics-uk ( /member/clacktronics-uk/)

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14/20


15/20

We have a be nicecomment policy.

Please be positive and constructive. I Made it! Add Images Make Comment

(/member/pooley182/)

yesterdayReply

resharpened from a factory ) drill bits for regular components and 1.2mm for wire

and mounting holes.

Some people like to use acrylic spray at the end of soldering to protect the copper

from corroding but the problem with this is that it makes it impossible to modify or

repair the PCB in the future. I used to just leave the PCBs unprotected and they

would oxidise until I found this flux spray that also acts as a barrier. You simply just

spray it on the board after cleaning and it protects the board from corrosion. Then

when soldering it doesnt get in the way, you can just solder right through it , in fact

it helps as it is flux!!

If anyone has any further questions or ideas about improvement, feel free to

comment below and I will try my best to reply.

pooley182 (/member/pooley182/)

I'd never heard of this press n peel, but I will be getting some for my future

projects, I hate the mess left by photo paper. For preventing corrosion I use

immerse tin powder.

https://www.jprelec.co.uk/store.asp/c=694/Immerse-Tin-Powder

it coats the copper in a thin layer of tin, so it's still solderable, but prevents

corrosion and gives a really nice silver effect to finished pcbs.

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F7W/841H/I88LLAR4/F7W841HI88LLAR4.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.ins tructables.com/FHJ/EENX/I88LLADJ/FHJEENXI88LLADJ.LARGE.jpg)
http://www.instructables.com/member/pooley182/http://cdn.instructables.com/F7W/841H/I88LLAR4/F7W841HI88LLAR4.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/member/pooley182/http://cdn.instructables.com/FHJ/EENX/I88LLADJ/FHJEENXI88LLADJ.LARGE.jpg


16/20

(/member/arvevans/)

yesterday Reply

(/member/pfred2/)

2 days ago Reply

(/member/clacktronics-

uk/)

yesterday Reply

(/member/pfred2/)

yesterday Reply

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FWZ/ZZYN/I8BGFLVM/FWZZZYNI8BGFLVM.LARGE.jpg)

arvevans (/member/arvevans/)

Those having problems with laser printing P-n-P Blue may be putting the wrong

side up in their laser printer.

pfred2 (/member/pfred2/)

I've ruined two laser printer cartridges using P-n-P Blue. It'd have been cheaper

for me to have sent the boards out to be made. Because laser printer cartridges

are not exactly cheap. At least not the ones that my HP L4+ laser printer takes.

clacktronics-uk (/member/clacktronics-uk/)(author) pfred2

Interesting, my printer is a HP Laserjet 1022 so much

more budget and newer. Perhaps it is something to do

with the way and temperature it is fused at its the risk of

feeding odd stock through your laser printer! I ruined

similar HP called 1012 when I fed sticker paper

through and it stuck round the fuser roller!

pfred2 (/member/pfred2/) clacktronics-uk

Yeah something stuck to the rollers running P-n-P Blue through my printer.

Then everything it printed would have toner all over i t, like a bad

mimeograph. I tried to clean the rollers, but once it's done, it's done. When
http://www.instructables.com/member/pfred2/http://www.instructables.com/member/clacktronics-uk/http://cdn.instructables.com/FWZ/ZZYN/I8BGFLVM/FWZZZYNI8BGFLVM.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/member/arvevans/http://www.instructables.com/member/pfred2/http://www.instructables.com/member/pfred2/http://-/?-http://www.instructables.com/member/clacktronics-uk/http://www.instructables.com/member/arvevans/http://www.instructables.com/member/pfred2/http://-/?-


17/20

2 days ago Reply

(/member/Eric+Brouwer/)

I go back to etching again I will try photoresist out. Transfer is pretty low

resolution anyways. When it works for a lot of stuff it is great I suppose.

But I've had my problems with it too.

I can honestly say I'd never try it again.

I agree. Easy to use, with good results. I make all my PCBs using the same

Press'n'Peel.

I do not use an iron, instead I fix the Press'n'Peel to the blank PCB with masking

tape, and pass it through a laminater 10 - 12 times.

Below some pics of what I was able to fi t into a 100x80mm PCB using

Press'n'Peel.

(/files/deriv/F5Q/SPW6/I88LLXSN/F5QSPW6I88LLXSN.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.ins tructables.com/FVW/8UOR/I88LLXSW/FVW8UORI88LLXSW.LARGE.jpg)

Eric Brouwer (/member/Eric+Brouwer/)made it!
http://www.instructables.com/member/Eric+Brouwer/http://cdn.instructables.com/FVW/8UOR/I88LLXSW/FVW8UORI88LLXSW.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F5Q/SPW6/I88LLXSN/F5QSPW6I88LLXSN.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/member/Eric+Brouwer/


18/20

2 days ago Reply

(/member/Eric+Brouwer/)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F53/2222/I88LLXTD/F532222I88LLXTD.LARGE.jpg)

I agree. Easy to use, with good results. I make all my PCBs using the same

Press'n'Peel.

I do not use an iron, instead I fix the Press'n'Peel to the blank PCB with masking

tape, and pass it through a laminater 10 - 12 times.

(http://cdn.ins tructables.com/FDG/IF7J/I88LNDGP/FDGIF7JI88LNDGP.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F31/02DB/I88LNDGQ/F3102DBI88LNDGQ.LARGE.jpg)

Eric Brouwer (/member/Eric+Brouwer/)made it!
http://cdn.instructables.com/FDG/IF7J/I88LNDGP/FDGIF7JI88LNDGP.LARGE.jpghttp://www.instructables.com/member/Eric+Brouwer/http://www.instructables.com/member/Eric+Brouwer/http://cdn.instructables.com/F53/2222/I88LLXTD/F532222I88LLXTD.LARGE.jpghttp://cdn.instructables.com/F31/02DB/I88LNDGQ/F3102DBI88LNDGQ.LARGE.jpg


19/20

(/member/acheide/)

2 days ago Reply

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FCN/H27N/I88LNDGR/FCNH27NI88LNDGR.LARGE.jpg)

acheide (/member/acheide/)

Nice Instructable.

Thanks.

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Date post:	13-Apr-2018
Category:	Documents
Upload:	ariezaperdhana8233
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Etching PCBs With Press'n'Peel

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