European Vibe Magazine November 2009

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Depeche MoDe Marilyn Manson couRtIng the Bull Murcia FloRence lookIng FoR eRIc 2012 WoRlD cup plAyoFFs All BlAcks touR a day in the life: of a first year aMerican teacher AnD lots MoRe!

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European Vibe EntertainmentFernando el Católico 63, local 128015 Madrid enquiRiesTel: 91 549 7711 Fax: 91 549 7711Email: [email protected] [email protected] staR editoR Susana Ló[email protected] aRt editoRPhilip McIvor [email protected] Media & designFerdi Loskamp [email protected] saLes diRectoRAlan Geegan [email protected] 91 549 7711 Mobile: 689 823 847 adMinistRatoRTomek [email protected] diRectoRScott Edwards [email protected] EvEnt Co-oRdinatoR Sam Lee [email protected] Logistics & distRibutionRossen Angelov [email protected] SUB-EDItoRMatt JohnsonMagazine and bLog wRiteRs Peter Moore, Linn Treijs, Ryan Craggs, Martin Quinn, Helen Macrae, Matt Johnson, Andy Ojelade, Charlotte Smith, Adam Ciotkowski & Alice BellcaRtoonJoe HodgsoninteRns Sima Kalmens, Verónica Méndez, Charlene Lidyard, Janelle Collins, Eric Rattner & Harriet Rockliff

3NoVEmbEr ’09 www.europeanvibe.coM

EdITorIAL

contents

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804 WHAT’S ON - SKuNK

ANANSiE, CAMERA OBSCuRA, DEPECHE MODE & RAMMSTEiN

05 WHAT’S ON - CALENDAR06 WHAT’S ON - DAViD BiSBAL,

SiMPLE MiNDS, JuLiETTE LEWiS & THE SOuNDS

07 WHAT’S ON - MARiLyN MANSON, THE PRODiGy

08 ViBES – MuSE THE RESiSTANCE

09 DJ COSy O’S uRBAN REViEW10 EV WEBSiTE12 PARTy PHOTOS14 BOOKS - COuRTiNG THE BuLL15 TRAVEL SPAiN – MuRCiA 16 TRAVEL EuROPE - FLORENCE 18 LiNGO STAR - SuRViVAL

SECTiON & EL CONSuLTORiO DE LiNGO STAR

19 LiNGO STAR - DiARiO DE ViAJES, SANTiAGO DE COMPOSTELA

20 FiLM FiRST - 2012, AWAy WiTH ME & LOOKiNG FOR ERiC

21 NEW MOViE RELEASES 22 SPORT – EL CLáSiCO & EFL23 SPORT – WORLD CuP

PLAyOFFS & ALL BLACKS24 CuLTuRE – A DAy iN THE

LiFE: OF A FiRST yEAR AMERiCAN TEACHER

26 EAT OuT GuiDE28 BiTS & PiECES & My METRO 29 SERViCES

telephone:

91 544 1072e-mail:[email protected]

Advertising/PublicidadIf you find the bully logo in one of our featured adverts, send us an email to [email protected] and you could win 2 roundtrip tickets to Dublin from Madrid courtesy of Aer Lingus. Last month’s winner was Matthew Reed. Matthew won a 40€ dinner voucher for Chill Out Caché. Bully was hiding in the Fabulous advert on page 13. Get searching!

where’s bully?

vibeEuropean

BLOGwww.europeanvibeblog.com

WE WANT You To WRiTE FoR us Send a

500-word article about your barrio in Madrid to [email protected] to get a writer’s account on our blog!www.europeanvibe.com

Our brand new website is online and interactive like never before.

Don’t stay inThe clocks have gone back, the nights are getting darker and colder, but you can’t take refuge in bars and clubs every single night, can you? Some time you’re going to have to stay in, bite the bullet and watch some spectacularly bad Spanish TV.

Here are some of the horrors that await you:

Frustrating comedy/drama series in-variably let down by either woeful script writing or embarrassingly poor acting (Or at least unable to maintain a good level in both script and acting for more than half a season)

Reality shows whose weekly gala pro-grammes last about five hours (The good old reality show is a worldwide phenomenon, but following one here means committing one entire night out of your week)

Heavily politicized news broadcasts (When people trust newspapers more than TV news, there’s a problem)

Dreadful dubbing into Spanish of English-language films (In which it seems all children are voiced by the same woman doing a ‘Bart Simpson voice’)

Loud interminable commercial breaks with ads made by people who think we’re incred-ibly stupid (You can’t remember what you were watching anymore, but you can still hear, “Quiero hacer caca en el baño de Pablito” as you make a sandwich)

Gossip shows (My pick of the month)

The last time I visited my Spanish mother-in-law, she went to buy bread and came back after 50 minutes. The bakery is at the end of her street. “What a queue!” she said upon her return. “What a lie” we thought. We had had watched her intermittently through the kitchen window as she stopped each time she met someone she knew. She spent seven to ten minutes talking to each one. “What does she have to talk about for so long?” I asked my wife. It was gossip. As gossiping is officially Spain’s national sport (dwarfing the number of those who follow football), it’s only right that it should have a significant presence on television. The number of these has snowballed since the emergence of private TV channels at the start of the ‘90s, taking over the morning programming, swallowing the old children’s TV afternoon/early evening slots and incredibly landing Saturday night prime time. Even Spanish Big Brother has it’s own spin-off gossip show.

These programmes do have some good things –

they give gossip junkies a constant source of their drug they make gossiping a ‘victimless crime’ because celebrities aren’t real people with feelings who only exist for our amusement as there are only 153 people who still regularly follow bullfighting, top bullfighters wouldn’t get recognized walking down the street if it weren’t for these shows hairdressers, supermarket checkout assistants and not-so-successful models who sleep with bullfighters, footballers or actresses can get to be ‘celebrities’, go on these programmes and give other hairdressers, supermarket checkout assistants and not-so-successful models something to aspire to and give everyone else something to condescend the ultimate Spanish class – if you can under-stand everything as three panelists scream each other down simultaneously, you have surpassed many native speakers

What’s wrong with them then? If you have to ask…You can vote for your own ‘favourite’ worst thing about Spanish TV on our new website. I’ll have to go now – Sálvame is on in a minute.Luc

whAT’S oN?

4 NoVEmbEr ’09www.europeanvibe.coM

mAdrId AgENdA compILEd IN coLLAborATIoN wITh ESmAdrId

Camera ObscuraDate: 8 NovemberVenue: Sala Heineken

The independent heavyweights Camera Obscura released their fourth album, My Maudlin Career, this past April. Mixing sugary harmonies and ironic, borderline romantic lyrics, My Maudlin Career is the sonic version of a sour-patch kid. The organ, piano, brass, and guitar create sweet melodies that serve as a backdrop to Campbell’s vulnerable-yet-strong voice. The single The Sweetest Thing reminisces of 1950s music while French Navy combines the hopeless romantic and the sarcastic cynic with lyrics like “I wanted to control it, but love, I couldn’t hold it.” Formed in 1996, the indie-pop band is made up of Tracyanne Campbell (lead vocals), Carey Lander (piano), Kenny McKeeve (guitar), and Gavin Dunbar (bass). Hailing from Glasgow, Scotland, the band is often compared to fellow Scots Belle and Sebastian. The five piece broke through to the UK Independent Chart with the single I love My Jean and since their last album Let’s Get Out of This Country, fans have been awaiting Maudlin Career.

verónica Méndez

concert

08/11/09

Skunk AnansieDate: 5 NovemberVenue: La Riviera

After an eight-year hiatus, British rock band Skunk Anansie, led by angsty vocalist Skin, have reunited and will be playing a show at La Riviera in Madrid on 5 November as part of a tour promoting the group’s new album. The London-based band—consisting of Skin, guitarist Ace, bassist Cass, and drummer Mark Richardson—formed in 1994. The name Skunk Anansie is taken from the arachnid trickster of West African folklore, Anansi. The group added ‘skunk’ to their title to make the name grittier. Skunk Anansie gave their first performance at London’s Splash Club in March 1994, highlighting their first single, Little Baby Swastikkka, which was only available via mail-order. The debut album, Paranoid and Sunburnt, followed soon after, eventually reaching #8 on the UK charts. The two singles Feed and Selling Jesus were featured on the soundtrack of the movie Strange Days. In 1996, Skunk Anansie released their second album, Stoosh, which included hit singles Hedonism (Just Because You Feel Good), which reached #14 on the UK singles chart, and Brazen (Weep), which reached #11 on the UK singles chart. Stoosh itself reached #9 on the charts and stayed there for 55 weeks. In 1999, the band released Post Orgasmic Chill, which was their last album until this year’s Smashes and Trashes. In 2001, Skunk Anansie split and the individual members pursued solo careers, releasing albums and playing with other bands. Smashes and Trashes is out this month and its first two singles are Tear the Place Up and Because of You. Go see the show and reminisce about the Britrock days of the late 20th century.

SImA KALmENS

Depeche ModeDates: 16 & 17 NovemberVenue: Palacio de Deportes

Since their beginning in the early 1980s, Depeche Mode have become one of the most successful and longest playing bands in history. In their 29-year career, the band have released 24 albums, featuring the distinct, innovative, and creative techno sound that made them famous. The band formed in Basildon, England in 1980, but their origins can be traced back to 1976, when Vince Clarke (keyboards and chief songwriting before 1981) and Andrew Fletcher (keyboards) formed the band No Romance in China. A few years later, Clarke teamed up with Martin Gore (keyboards, guitar, vocals, and chief songwriting after 1981) and Rob Marlowe to form the band The French Look. In 1979, Fletcher replaced Marlowe and the trio Composition of Sound was born. In 1980, David Gahan (lead vocals) joined the band as a vocalist, and the quartet changed the band name to Depeche Mode, “hurried fashion” in French. At that time, Gore and Fletcher switched their guitars for synthesizers, and the band established their trademark sound. In 1980, while performing locally in London, Depeche Mode captured the interest of a record executive, who invited the band to record a single for his new label. The single,

Dreaming of Me lead to the release of Depeche Mode’s first album, Speak and Spell. The album garnered mixed reviews, but reached #10 on the UK Albums Chart. After the release of Speak and Spell, Clarke left Depeche Mode, leaving Gore as the chief songwriter. Alan Wilder (keyboards and drums) replaced Clarke. Wilder was with the group until 1995. Since 1995, Fletcher, Gore, and Gahan have been performing as a trio. Since Speak and Spell, Depeche Mode have released eleven studio albums, as well as four live albums and eight compilation albums. The band have sold more than 100 million albums worldwide and have been a big influence on popular bands such as Radiohead, Linkin Park, and Coldplay.

chArLENE LIdyArd

05/11/09

RammsteinDate: 10 NovemberVenue: Palacio de Deportes

After a four-year break, the German band Rammstein released their sixth album, Liebe Ist Fur Alle Da in October. The album’s first single Pussy is already causing a buzz, as it was released through a porn website featuring nudity and sexual acts. Although the majority of the songs are written

in German, the group has cultivated a huge following since the release of their first album, Herzeleid, in 1995. Their second album, Sehnsucht and Live Aus Berlin, earned the group a nomination for the Best Metal Act at the Grammy awards. The band’s next three albums Mutter, Reise, Reise, and Rosenrot and Volkerball, also enjoyed success as they reached the top ten spots in various countries. Formed in 1994 in Berlin, the group consists of Till Lindemann (lead vocals), Richard Z. Kruspe (lead guitar), Pau H. Landers (guitar), Ollie Riedel (bass guitar), and Christopher ‘Doom’ Schneider (drums), and Christian ‘Flake’ Lorenz (keyboards). The sextet are best known for their industrial metal sound as well as their controversial videos — most of the band members appear naked in the music video for the single Mann Gegen Mann. Rammstein’s over-the-top shows have become as notorious as the band itself. Lindemann has spent entire songs engulfed in flames, and the group has been known to dress up in fat suits and corsets. The group is set to come to Madrid on 10 November, outlandish costumes included.

verónica Méndez

10/11/09

16/11/0917/11/09

November


whAT’S oN?mAdrId AgENdA compILEd IN coLLAborATIoN wITh ESmAdrId

MADRID’S No. 1 SHOTS BAR!!!AbsintheSambucaStrohMezcalCocktails, mixed drinks, and lots more!

Santa Teresa 8, Alonso Martínez, MADRID

Alonso Martínez

Open Thursday, Friday and

Saturday from 21:30 to 2am

www.chupitosabor.com

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Sala Heineken C Princesa 1 (90 215 0025) Joy Eslava C Arenal,11 (913 665 439) Sala El Sol C Jardines 3, Metro: Sol (www.elsolmad.com, 91 532 6490) Palacio Vistalegre utebo 1, Metro: Vista Alegre (914 220 781) Palacio de Deportes Avenida de Felipe ii s/n (902 33 22 11) La Riviera Pº Bajo de la Virgen del Puerto, (www.servicaixa.com, 902 33 22 11) Moby Dick Avda. de Brasil 5, Metro: Cuzco / Santiago Bernabeu (902 15 00 25) Sala Caracol C Bernardino Obregón 18 (91 527 3594)

World Cup Qualifying

3 4

MOORES PLAZA MAYOR c/Felipe III, 4Tel: 91 365 5802 SolLIVE FOOTBALL, BEST PUB-GRUB IN MADRID, BEST PUB FOR ALL SPORTS & BEST BIG SCREEN

MOORES BARCELó c/Barceló, 1

Tel: 91 532 6331 TribunalMONDAY TO FRIDAY: MENÚ DEL DÍA.

THURSDAY: TERTULIA, STUDENT NIGHT + COCKTAILS.

SATURDAY & SUNDAY: SPORTS ALL DAY. PUB QUIZ EVERY MONDAY NIGHT

TERRAZA

GUTS FUSSION c/Gutiérrez Solana, 6Tel: 91 561 5668 Bernabéu OPEN 11AM-5PM. MOORE’S LA CUEVA BAR DE COPAS, THURSDAYS, FRIDAY & SATURDAY DJs. CHART MUSIC. WE ORGANISE PRIVATE PARTIES www.guts.es

now fREE wi-fi

in All ThREE bARs

Special Sports Menu

Skunk Anansie

Black Lips

The Horrors

The Metal Experience

Festival Dimebag Darrell III

Medina Azahara

Andrew Bird

King Yellowman

Maldita Nerea Metal Hammer Tribute

Sonata Arctica

U.F.O

El Puchero Del Hortelano

Antonio Orozco The Antlers Federico Aubele

Hardcore Superstar Sala Live!

New Model Army Sala Live!

Marillion Hotel Auditorium

PJ Hermosilla Sala Galileo Galilei

Soulsavers Ramdall Music Live

Plushgun La Boite Live

D:A:D Ritmo y Compás

Simple Minds

Fonseca

Lacrosse + The Honeckers

Innata Finntroll

Junkyard

Vilma Y Los Señores

Angel Sánchez

Rise Against

The Sounds

Marilyn Manson The Prodigy

Muse Juliette Lewis and

The New Romantiques

Camera Obscura

La Vela Puerca

Jimi Jamison (Survivor) + Indicco

The Temper Trap

Buena Fe, Gira “Del Otro Lado Del Mar”

Gov’t Mule

Ramoncín

The Poodles

Porcupine Tree

Combichrist

Depeche Mode

Six Organs Of Admittance

Hamel Evangelista The Rumble Strips

Rickie Lee Jones Depeche Mode

Naive New Beaters + Flavio Rodriguez

Rammstein Jonas Brothers Brett Dennen

The Quireboys Basia Bulat

David Bisbal

November RuGBy FOOTBALL

TENNiS

Fed Cup final

The Pepper Pots

Charlie Winston

Yann Tiersen The Sunday Drivers

Second Alex Ubago Baddies

Imelda May

Savia

The Right Ons

Skye

Mando Diao

AC Milan v Real Madrid, Atletico Madrid v Chelsea, Man utd v CSKA Moscow

Arsenal v Standard Liege, Debrecen v Liverpool

Real Madrid v FC Zurich

Arsenal v AZ, Lyon v Liverpool

Atletico Madrid v Real Madrid, Barcelona v Mallorca , Chelsea v Man utd

Birmingham v Man City

Real Madrid v Racing , Athletic Bilbao v Barcelona, Deportivo v Atletico Madrid

Atletico Madrid v Espanyol, Barcelona v Real Madrid

Liverpool v Birmingham

Liverpool v Man City, Man utd v Everton

Blackburn v Liverpool, West Ham v Man utd

World Cup Qualifying

Wales v Argentina

Wales v New Zealand

Wales v Samoa

Wales v Arg

Abu Dhabi Grand Prix

Thanksgiving 2009

Davis Cup Davis Cup

Spain v Czech Republic

whAT’S oN?


mAdrId AgENdA compILEd IN coLLAborATIoN wITh ESmAdrId

For those of you who missed David Bisbal’s crowd-pleasing performance at the Madrid 2016 candidature celebration on 27 September, there is another chance to see the megahit singer perform on 24 November at Madrid’s Teatro Circo Price. Bisbal’s career began on the Spanish reality TV show, Operación Triunfo. Bisbal won second place in 2002 and since

then has gone on to release four studio albums, two live albums, and a greatest hits album—all before the age of 30. Bisbal’s first album, Corazón Latino, was released in 2002 and went multi-platinum by the end of the summer. Bisbal won a Latin Grammy for the album, which continued to sell even more copies after the awards. The follow ups to Corazón Latino—Bulería (2004) and Premonición (2006)—both reached multiplatinum status. Premonición also reached gold status in the United States and select countries in South America. Bisbal’s new album, Sin Mirar Atrás, is set for release in October. Bisbal’s November performance marks the Madrid leg of his tour, Sin Mirar Atrás, which kicks off on 19 November in his hometown of Almería.

VEróNIcA méNdEz

Simple MindsDate: 18 NovemberVenue: La Riviera

David BisbalDate: 24 NovemberVenue: Teatro Circo Price

This November, Madrid is teeming with a variety of concert choices to behold, each one with a little something different to offer. Coming to the La Riviera is the group Simple Minds. Having sold more than 40 million albums worldwide, Simple Minds accomplish a task that is by no means a simple feat. Rock, new wave, new romantic, political activists; to say it is almost impossible to categorize this group is an understatement, but also is the notion that their music is captivating, and bridges even the greatest of generation gaps. Simply put, Simple Minds are a rock band from Scotland who experienced their biggest worldwide popularity from the mid-1980s to the early 1990s. Success found them in both the early years with their single Don’t You (Forget About Me), and more recently in the form of critical acclaim on their more politically inspired work. Having survived several changes in band members, Simple Minds have come together to produce their 18th studio album, Graffiti Soul. Tickets are priced at around 40€, a token price to pay for three decades of rock and roll.

chArLENE LIdyArd

Juliette Lewis and The New RomantiquesDate: 25 November Venue: Sala Heineken

Belting to lyrics like, “Listen little girl you better sit down, you better take a look around and get a hold of yourself woman. And embrace what you’ve become,” Juliette Lewis’ distressed voice takes centre stage in her latest album Terra Incognita. Released this past September, the album has a different sound from Lewis’ past two albums with her former band The Licks. After four years and two albums with them, the actress turned singer opted for a new sound, and band, resulting in Juliette Lewis and The New Romantiques. Produced by Mars Volta’s Omar Rodriguez-Lopez after he and Lewis bonded over Fellini movies at a music festival, the album strays from the heavy rock and roll sound that is heard in The Licks past singles like Hot Kiss and You’re Speaking My Language. Instead, the guitar serves more as an atmospheric backdrop to Lewis’ voice as she drawls to lyrics like, “We’re all revolutionaries in a way” and “Now society’s got no place for me.” The album’s eleven tracks were co-written by Lewis and guitarist Chris Watson, and feature the bluesy single Hard Lovin’ Woman and Suicide Diver Bombs.

VEróNIcA méNdEz

The SoundsDate: 27 November Venue: Joy Eslava

The Swedish New Wave band combine dance, punk, disco, and rock to create the perfect shut-up-and-dance solution. Formed in 1999, the band are a five-piece with Maja Ivarsson on lead vocals. Their debut album, Living in America, earned them various Grammy nominations. The follow-up, Dying to Say This to You, was released in 2006 and the group later founded their own record label, Arnioki Records, through which they produced their third album Crossing the Rubicon in June of 2009. The new album features fun, upbeat music and their visit to Madrid promises a perfect Friday night out. VEróNIcA méNdEz

exhibitionsMARiMekkOStarting: 6 NovemberVenue: Museo del Traje

Since the 1950s, Marimekko’s designs have been anything but boring, transforming fashion into a confident bold

style. By only producing oilcloth and printed fabrics in 1949 and later commissioning young artists who produced new bold colours and patterns in the early 1950s was Riitta immonen able to present Marimekko’s first small collection to the Finnish public in 1951. During the period 1952-1956, Marimekko opened their first retail shop, shaped and developed their original line and production, designed their logo and started to export their designs. By 1958 Marimekko had gained awareness internationally and were on display in the Brussels World’s Fair and a special exhibition in Stockholm. While maintaining a strong market in Finland, Marimekko continue to break through barriers and increase their growth on the international scene. in the world of fashion their work is inspirational and undoubtedly flourished with vibrant patterns and innovated cutting edge designs. Marimekko’s Autumn/Winter 2009/2010 collections, ranging from women’s to kids’, are modern and playful with a dash of sophistication. From 6 November to 13 December, the Marimekko Company’s evolution of designs will be on display in the Museo del Traje and the exhibition will be as enchanting as their story. Janelle collins ULRike OTTiNgeRStarting: 26 NovemberVenue: Goethe-Institut

Goethe-institut Madrid has a special treat in store for you, and one that won’t cost you a céntimo. ulrike Ottinger, one

of Germany’s most visionary filmmakers is showcasing an exhibition of her most intriguing photographic work. Having started taking photographs at the age of nine, there seems to be no limit as to what Ottinger can and would like to achieve. ulrike is best known for her attempts to change perceptions, all the while distorting the lines between what is reality and fiction. These two worlds collide to provide a truly unique visual experience. charlene lidyard

Guy Ben-nerStarting: 1 NovemberVenue: Centro de Arte Dos de Mayo

israeli-born visual artist Guy Ben-Ner follows an unusual aesthetic. Referencing literature, film

and art, Ben-Ner conveys his thoughts and opinions about society, focusing particularly on traditional family conventions and the role of the family man. Ben-Ner usually uses the short film as his medium (Moby Dick, Stealing Beauty), but previous exhibitions have also involved sculpture (Treehouse Kit), drawings, and bicycles (I’d give it to you if I could but I borrowed it). Ben-Ner’s exhibit, which will feature all of his work up until 2005, opens on 1 Nov and runs until 10 Jan in El Centro de Arte Dos de Mayo. siMa KalMens

LeóN FeRRARi AND MiRA SCheNDeL: TANgLeD ALphABeTSStarting: 25 NovemberVenue: Reina Sofía

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Bubble wrap, bits of bones, and llamas' claws are just some of the instruments the British band Muse incorporate into their music. But the potion works-- the band’s fifth album, The Resistance, debuted at #1 on the Billboard European Top Chart and at #3 in the United States, solidifying their reputation as one of the biggest rock groups in the world. The band’s 2006 album, Black Holes and Revelations, went platinum, selling over 1 million copies across Europe. Their latest album, The Resistance, released in September, became the band’s third number one album in the UK. The newly released album continues the band’s tradition to combine Bellamy’s voice with sci-fi anthems and laser-beam guitar sounds. See full Muse feature on page 8. VEróNIcA méNdEz


whAT’S oN?mAdrId AgENdA compILEd IN coLLAborATIoN wITh ESmAdrId

Don’t be confused by the title, there is nothing tangled about Tangled Alphabets a collection of art by León Ferrari

and Mira Schendel. Often cited as two of the most important Latin American artists of the twentieth century, Ferrari and Schendel worked independently to bring language forward not only as a way to express ideas but also as a more concrete, conceptual art form. The vivid way that they use language entices your mind to think beyond its traditional uses. Tangled Alphabets is the first time these two artists have been brought together to display their achievements – don’t miss your chance. siMa KalMens

MATeRNiDADeSStarting: 6 NovemberVenue: Caixa Forum

Award-winning photojournalist Bru Rovira explores the universal bond of motherhood through a series of

photographs exhibited at la Caixa Forum.Rovira, who received the Ortega and Gasset award in 2004, travelled throughout the world capturing images of mothers and their children. The photographs explore different cultures and their conceptions of child-rearing. Visiting war-torn countries like Congo, the Catalan journalist demonstrates how love and beauty can overcome the direst of situations. The series is also accompanied by works reflecting the children’s response to the images.The exhibition opens on 6 November and runs until 28 February. verónica Méndez

JAN vAN eyCk: gRiSAiLLeSStarting: 3 NovemberVenue: Thyssen-Bornemisza

Starting on 3 November, Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza will host the very first Jan van Eyck exhibit featuring the

artist’s grisailles technique. Grisaille is a painting technique characterized by monochrome, usually in tones of grey or brown. Grisaille is often used as a decoration and an undercoat in oil paintings.Jan van Eyck was a medieval painter from the Flemish region who was particularly active in Bruges. Van Eyck is often referred to as ‘the father of oil painting’ because of his perfection of the technique. Jan van Eyck: Grisailles offers drawings, paintings, and ivories that display the importance of the grisaille technique in art. siMa KalMens

hANNAh COLLiNS: ONgOiNg hiSTORy. FiLMS AND phOTOgRAphSStarting: 19 NovemberVenue: Caixa Forum

There are some exhibitions that come and go, and then there are the ones that stay with you. Hannah Collins strives

to do the latter with her ambitious exhibition that pulls together a collection of three of her most prominent films and related photographs; La Mina, Parallel and Current History. Collins has received numerous awards including the European Photography Award and the Olympus Award. The themes permeating her exhibition about the struggles of people in modern society and the bringing to life of intangible experiences through images are sure to leave you walking away with a new found sense of perspective. charlene lidyard

quizzes

ANYWAY PUB QUIz NIGHT Thursday from 23:00 in Anyway Pub. Viriato, 64. Metro: iglesia.IRISH ROVER Every monday at 21:00, upstairs in the library. Join us to spark up a brain cell after the weekend. Avenida del Brasil, 7. Metro: Santiago Bernabéu.MOORES Pub quiz in English every Monday at 21:45 in Moores irish Pub, Calle Barceló. Lots of prizes and great fun. Everyone welcome. Metro: Tribunal.

fun Activities

PARQUE DE ATRACCIONES Heart-stopping roller coasters, vertigo inducing rides or the spine-chilling tunnel of terror. Metro: Batán. Bus lines 33 & 65.Tel: 91 463 2900 e-mail: [email protected] DE MADRIDAvda. del Planetario, 16. Tel: 91 467 34 61Metro: Méndez álvaro. Closed MondayszOO AQUARIUM From the smallest insect to the largest mammal. Over 6,000 animals from more than 500 different zoological groups. Venue: Casa de Campo, s/n Metro: Casa de Campo. Bus lines 33 & 65. Tel: 91 512 3770

sport

REAL MADRID Estadio Santiago Bernabéu Tel: 91 398 43 00 Metro: Santiago Bernabéu. www.realmadrid.comATLéTICO DE MADRIDEstadio Vicente Calderón Metro: Pirámides. Tel: 91 366 47 07 www.clubatleticodemadrid.com CB ESTUDIANTES BASKETBALL Madrid Arena Tel: 902 400 002 www.clubestudiantes.comREAL MADRID CBPabellon Raimundo Saporta Tel: 91 398 43 32 www.realmadridbasket.galeon.com

nightLife

WEDNESDAY NIGHTS

VIBE the party @ Orange CaféNow legendary international party with hip hop and RnB music taking place every Wednesday night at Orange Café , Serrano Jover 5, Metro Argüelles. Open bar of beer, sangria and wine and beer pong games from 11:30 pm - 12:30 am for only 5 euros. From 12:30 till close, entrance with 2 drinks included for 10 euros. Get on the guest list at www.europeanvibe.com

THURSDAY NIGHTS

FEVER @ Joy Eslava The ultimate Student Party. Every Thursday night Madrid’s most famous club becomes a disco sensation with spectacular animation and the best music from the 1970s till present day. Free entrance or 2 drinks for 10 euros from midnight till 1:30 am, or entrance price with 2 drinks for 12 euros from 1:30 am till close. Joy Eslava, calle Arenal 11, Metro Sol / Ópera. Get on the guest list at www.europeanvibe.com

FRIDAY NIGHTS

FABULOUS @ Joy Eslava This is arguably Madrid’s most glamorous club night and is in session every Friday night at the Joy Eslava located in the central Puerta del Sol area of the city. Burlesque-style animation, exclusive ViP zones and the biggest house and mainstream tunes all night long. Are you fabulous enough to be there? Joy Eslava, calle Arenal 11. Metro Sol/ Opera. Get guest list access to this party by signing up at www.europeanvibe.com

The prodigyDate: 4 December Venue: Palacio de Deportes

With hits such as Smack My Bitch Up, Voodoo People and Firestarter, The Prodigy has caused media outbursts and frenzies throughout their career. Criticized for their outrageous lyrics and hell raising stage performances, many mainstream papers have sought to stop them in their tracks. Their revolutionizing of big beat electronic dance music back in 1990, however, made them a hit with the rave scene, and the papers had no chance. Alongside The Chemical Brothers, Fatboy Slim and Crystal Method, The Prodigy were considered responsible for a whole new genre of music. They mixed rave with punk and rock, successfully achieving three gold certified albums. In 1997, The Prodigy reached their peak with The Fat of the Land, which achieved #1 status in eight countries. During the popularity of this album, video for hit song Smack My Bitch Up was refused airtime due to its aggressive content. The Prodigy continued in their shocking style, although with the demise of the rave scene they slipped out of the spotlight. Maybe it’s the band themselves or maybe it’s that people want to rave again, but with their new album Invaders Must Die, The Prodigy have made a comeback. Defined again by violence and aggression, The Prodigy’s upcoming performance at the beginning of December in Madrid is likely to reawaken our desire for the head-thrashing rave scene. harriet rocKliff

Marilyn MansonDate: 3 DecemberVenue: Palacio de Deportes

04/12/09

03/12/09

28/11/09

Long recognized for their challenging lyrics and controversial stage antics, Marilyn Manson are now coming to Madrid to

promote their new album, The High End of Low. Since they entered the music scene back in 1989, Marilyn Manson began to develop a strong following, achieving two number-one albums,

three releases in the top ten and out of their thirteen albums, three have achieved platinum certification and three gold. Marilyn Manson: dark, gothic and sometimes just plain creepy – you can’t deny they have a certain talent for putting on a show. Rumours of lead singer Brian Warner throwing puppies into the audience, instructing everyone to kill them before the show could continue, have haunted the band and yet simultaneously created a growing fan base among people who enjoy watching the public and media outcry. Their outrageous style and shocking lyrics have served to fuel the attention and public support surrounding them. The High End of Low sees the return of bassist and songwriter Twiggy Ramirez to the band, alongside a fresh anger at the modern world. This stands out most in We’re from America, which delivers lines such as, “We don’t like to kill our unborn/We need them to grow up and fight our wars”. Manson’s (Warner’s) break up with actress Evan Rachel Wood also creeps into the album, providing a sense of misery and desperation, for example in Leave a Scar: “It’s not like I made myself a list/Of new and different ways to murder your heart”. Whether you love them or hate them, this show is sure to offer all the best of Marilyn Manson: eerie costumes, anarchic lyrics and an all round captivating performance.

hArrIET rocKLIff

MuseDate: 28 NovemberVenue: Palacio de Deportes

VIbES


ResistanceThe

Following a chance encounter with Muscle Museum, the third single released by Devonshire trio Muse, and the immense aural pleasure that the combination of its prominent ticking clock-esque bass and

explosive chorus produced, I was prompted to buy Showbiz, their debut album. It was a wise purchase. The girl that sold it to me told me so. She was right, but she also happened to be the last person I heard mention Muse for two years.

Although it was an excellent debut, it is perhaps understandable that it received a relatively muted reception. After all, it was 1999.

Alternative rock was still getting over Radiohead’s OK Computer and the faintest hint of a falsetto was enough for a new band to be dismissed as fleeting pretenders - an unfortunate state of affairs for Muse, who, in front man Matt Bellamy, have one hell of a falsetto.

On top of that there was the hysteria over the imminent Millennium Bug and, should we survive (technology intact) the launch of Napster was surely going to put an end to music.

By 2001 however, things were very different. The Millennium Bug had turned out to be an elaborate hoax and Napster had been shut down having probably done more damage to the pornography industry than to music. The

Muse

With Muse landing in the Palacio de Deportes at the end of the month, Adam Ciotkowski couldn’t resist finding out what they have in store for us.

wordS by AdAm cIoTKowSKI

wordS by AdAm cIoTKowSKI


atmosphere of technological apprehension had subsided, giving way to something more embracing of Muse’s brand of space age prog rock.

Muse released Origin of Symmetry and from the first arpeggio of New Born they had the attention of everyone that was looking the other way two years earlier. The riff on Plug In Baby is one of the finest ever to grace a guitar and Feeling Good is one of the few occasions where a cover version is actually impressive rather than an admission of a lack of imagination.

2003 saw the release of Absolution, including the fantastic Stockholm Syndrome and the Rachmaninoff-inspired classical piano on Butterflies and Hurricanes.

Their evolution into stadium heavyweights was completed in 2006 with the huge commercial success of Black Holes and Revelations. With cleaner production than the dirge of Absolution (which I prefer), the album was a further foray into progressive rock - with added grandeur. This is exhibited best on Knights of Cydonia; released shortly before two sell-out shows at Wembley Stadium, it’s epic and over-the-top yet enchanting, much like their live performances.

A decade on from their debut and the now ‘supermassive’ trio, Matt Bellamy, Chris Wolstenholme and Dominic Howard, release their fifth album. I was eager to give it a listen...

The Resistance opens with Uprising, the album’s first single. Over the backdrop of a driving bass-line and a swirling synth that sounds as though it was plucked from Dr. Who, Bellamy’s slightly-deeper-than-usual vocals pulsate through the verse with a snarl, rising to the chorus and the proclamation that, “We will be victorious!” Energetic and captivating, Uprising is a promising start to their fifth long player.

This is followed by the slightly underwhelming yet anthemic chorus of Resistance. The Depeche Mode-influenced Undisclosed Desires sees Muse enter new territory with a catchy R&B beat and again a maturity is displayed in the vocals as Matthew Bellamy seems comfortable in resting in the lower regions of his vocal range.

United States of Eurasia (+ Collateral Damage) may allude to George Orwell’s Nineteen Eighty-Four in title and lyrical content, but Queen claim the honour of inspiration for everything else. The guitar pedals have been set to ‘Brian May’ and the vocals are resemblant of Freddy Mercury in perhaps the boldest Muse

spectacle to date. Following the rise to a grand chant of “EuraSia! Sia! Sia! Sia!”, it concludes with Collateral Damage, a Chopin-inspired piano piece which, in the context of what precedes it, is reminiscent of the “Nothing really matters” ending of Bohemian Rhapsody.

At the midpoint of the album is Guiding Light, an anthemic slow number. It seems made for the moment in live sets when the lights come up across the stadium: the bit just after the first encore where you get a sense that the 30,000 other people are thinking and feeling the same thing as you and it seems like the most amazing concert experience you will ever have. If you are not listening to it in that particular environment however, it sounds more like a poor man’s U2 and, frankly, a bit wet. Things are put right though as Muse turn up the distortion for the brilliant Unnatural Selection and MK Ultra.

I Belong To You (+ Mon Coeur S’Ouvre à Ta Voix) comes complete with funky bass squelch, hand claps, Matt Bellamy crooning over the piano in French and even a clarinet solo. It’s ambitious and over the top to the point of absurd pomposity. But just when you think that the height of spectacle has been reached, the album then concludes with a three-part symphony.

Exogenesis is the crowning achievement of The Resistance - the outcome of the evolution of a band unafraid to experiment. Part 1 (Overture) swoops in building to a rock opera in Part 2 (Cross-Pollination). The third movement, Redemption, is really quite beautiful. A delicate piano waltz builds steadily with fragile strings to a mesmerising crescendo in which Bellamy’s falsetto is masterfully controlled.

The Resistance sees Muse exploring previously unexplored styles but in doing so they manage to retain their identity. There are sparks of brilliance and it is grand and unrelenting. Even in the quieter piano tinkling moments it seems poised, ready to erupt into an all out rock opera. At times however, it can be overbearing and, with such a diversity of influences, the album feels a little disjointed.

Nonetheless the beauty of Muse is that you never know quite what to expect. They’re a band who, for better or worse, are willing to push boundaries and are devoid of concerns such as self-doubt. Few would be so bold as to put out United States of Eurasia yet Muse do so with an unflinching confidence that somehow allows them to pull it off. This outlook puts them in a unique position; with the technical proficiency of classically trained Bellamy, they are only restrained by the limits of imagination – or, in the case of their live performances, by health and safety regulations.

VIbES

Shakira ft. Lil Wayne & Timbaland gIVE IT up To mE

Jay Sean feat Lil Wayne dowN

Britney Spears 3

Ne-yo NoThINg buT ThE gIrL

Serani No morE gAmES

Snoop Dog gANgSTA LuV

Sean Paul ShE wANT mE

Mariah Carey h.A.T.E.u rEmIx

Taio Cruz brEAK your hEArT

Chris Brown ft Lil Wayne I cAN TrANSform yA

roKSTArrTaio Cruz He is one of a number of UK artists to move across the Atlantic in search of success. This second album has already spawned a UK number one in the shape of Take Me Back and Break Your Heart should also get plenty of radio time. Overall, a little too much pop in here for my liking.

mEmoIrS of AN ImpErfEcT ANgELMariah Carey Mariah’s twelfth studio release will unsurprisingly not feature Eminem but features a number of self-penned tracks and production work from The Dream. H.A.T.E will soon be blowing up in the clubs while 80s fans can look forward to a cover of Foreigner’s hit I Want To Know What Love Is.

DJ Cosy O’sUrban Review

12

10 tunes that you should be getting down to this

november

new cd releases

Check out where cosy o will be spinning this month at www.djcosyo.com

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SpEcIAL fEATurE


EV’s new website goes live

www.europeanvibe.com Our brand new website is online and interactive like never before. Get involved!

European Vibe MagazineMain features: faster easier to navigate news-website format advanced search options – need info on something in particular? Instantly find the articles you’re looking for photo galleries – see yourself, your friends and Madrid’s party people strutting their stuff at

European Vibe’s club nights PDA viewable – read any European Vibe articles on your iPhone, smartphone or PDA device virtual magazine on doopaper, which you can view and flick through on screen just like the

hard copy of the magazine hemeroteca or back catalogue of the magazine website and articles so you can go back EV Magazine’s articles are no longer just for reading – get ready to get interactive (see below) comments turn into forums for full blown discussion on what interests you classifieds and small-ads which you can browse and create with total ease (each classified automatically stays

active for 30 days so no more annoying phone calls six months after you rented your room or sold your TV) participate in and see the results of polls about issues relevant to EV readers vote online for our annual Vibe Awards to recognize excellence in the Madrid’s international community listen to European Vibe audio podcasts watch European Vibe videos access extra services including an online Spanish dictionary from the Real Academia Española, horoscopes,

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European Vibe Web CommunityMain features: faster easier format, more simple to use connect to your friends upload your photos upload your videos get on the guestlist for European Vibe

parties with great privileges (see below), join the web community and sign onto the list with the number of guests you like, simple as that

guestlist privileges Wednesday, Orange Café,

Vibe the party: 5€ open bar from 11:30 till 12:30. After 12:30, 2 drinks for 10€.

Thursday, Joy Eslava, Fever: 12:30-1:30, either free entry or entry with 2 drinks for 10€. After 1:30, 2 drinks for 12€.

Friday, Joy Eslava, Fabulous: Before 3:00, free entry. After 3:00, reduced entry 15€ with a drink.

Take five or more guests to a party and you will get a free drink.

European Vibe Travel All the info on upcoming trips to the coolest

places in Spain and beyond with fun people.

European Vibe Clubs and Parties Find out about the best atmosphere and

best-organized club nights in Madrid.

pArTy phoToS


booKS


I f you’re reading this as an expatriate living in Spain, then you’ve probably got a few stories to tell - the reasons

you came here, the reasons you’re still here and the possible reasons for leaving.So why are you here? Did you just need to do something for yourself? Dissatisfied with your life? Did you have an urge to travel? Craved the sunshine or a life less ordinary? Did you come here on holiday and never really leave? Were you fleeing a difficult situation? A broken heart, and needed to start again somewhere without your history, memories or past? Did you study here and forget to leave? Did you come here to teach English? Are you fulfilling your dreams? Are you lonely? Have you found a life less ordinary? Do you miss home? Where is home?

Like this anthology we all have a set of experiences that are personal to us, but like me you’ll almost certainly relate to a life in Spain through one or more of these varied works of fiction, memoir and verse. First we meet ‘Bottomcough’, Michael Raphans amusing story of falling in love fast. But when is the right time to share your first bottomcough with your new partner? And declare your love in a language that doesn’t belong to you like: “An actor in a cheesy Mexican soap opera.”

It would be wrong of me, as an English teacher, to write without mentioning ‘Coffee Break’, Anita Haas’s all-too-real description of the terrifying teaching experience that reads more like an extended panic attack than an hour in the classroom. A cringing read for any English teacher out there, as the writer takes you back to that in-company class you once had - met by a sea of

frowning faces losing the will to live right in front of your very eyes. Until the ‘Coffee break’, when the suddenly animated students find their reason for being again – communicating in their own language.

Ever found yourself locked in the metro at night? European Vibe’s own Matt Johnson vividly describes his spectrum of thoughts as he steps, half cut, into Lavapiés metro expecting to meet his French amigo. Tt’s Saturday, the night is young and Madrid is ready and waiting.

“Much to my horror though, I arrived at the exit just in time to watch in slow motion as the automatic gate clicked closed, blocking my only way out and shutting me inside, alone.”

My favourite fictional story in this collection is ‘The Lute and the Fiddle’, a beautiful, heady narrative about a young woman temporarily constrained to a wheel chair, legs cast and bound - what happened to her is hardly important as she takes us on her journey from her apartment in Lavapiés to the Alhambra in Granada, a place she wants to visit before leaving Spain. In an effort to numb her constant pain she washes down muscle relaxants and aspirin with vodka and water – as the only nameless character in the story – she slips in and out of consciousness, sensual hallucinations and dreams inducing a sense of euphoria in the reader, similar to her own, describing the world around her:

“It’s only a dream, I thought; the air in the room is motionless. The leaves were winking at me; their backs were shimmering silver as they danced back and forth in the sky.”

This anthology has so much more to offer than I have space

to mention. The poetry section is not to be missed - I particularly enjoyed, ‘House Menu’ by Marjorie Kante, set in Barcelona, 1967, a hungry, shameless young Spaniard sits down to lunch ordering the menu twice over – for the second time he explains to the waiter:

“El menúEverything?”The student (re)assures,“Yes.El menúALL of it.Exactly the same.”

Whether you’ve been here for two months or twenty years we all have experiences in common and much of it you will find written in this unique collection of expatriate literature. Read this book as if it were your own personal guide to Spain, and remember – home is where the heart is.

“Nobody ever lives their life all the

way up except bull-fighters.’

– Ernest Hemingway in The Sun Also Rises

wordS by chArLoTTE SmITh

A review of a new book by you, about you and about your world. Kind of. As Charlotte Smith says, you are sure to identify on some level with these stories by foreign writers in Spain.

Readings from the book at ‘Mad Open Mic Series’ - Cafe Concierto Lafidula, C/Huertas 57 from 9pm on 18 Nov.

Courting the bull


TrAVEL SpAIN

replaced by dirty cafés, and cheesy, multi-coloured slot machines substituting arcade games at bars. I could see grumpy rednecks, grumbling between snuff spits as the battle between country and flamenco shattered eardrums and speaker systems alike – each side fighting to drown out the other. Smoking bans would be lifted. Coffee mugs would shrink into shot glasses with handles. Pints would shrink to cañas. Fish would even be mixed with eggs, scrambled up, and sold for ten bucks a plate – joder!

Anyway. Beaches. Booze. Bars. Barato. Borracho. Whatever. What else? Well, immigrants aside, Murcia did actually have more to offer outside of golf courses and four-Euro fry-ups. As we discovered, this region also served as a hot spot for scuba diving. This fact in mind, as we were already saving so much cash on food & drink, we decided to splurge and go on our first underwater adventure. And with its crystalline waters, calm seas, and plethora of shallow water wildlife, Murcia did not fall short of impressing us with it aquatic eye candy.

So, upon further examination, it seemed that our Murcian adventure turned out to be a cheap, fascinating, and enjoyable success after all. High season, low season. Who cared? From the drunken dancing grandma who took out the microphone, podium, and monitor stand during my karaoke rendition of Gangsta’s Paradise, to the tipsy father who tried selling his daughter to my roommates; from scuba diving in the Mediterranean to waking up after a night out with my pockets still filled with crumpled Euro notes; Murcia, while increasingly colonized by outsiders, still offered to the adventurer in all of us, a travel experience worth discovering first hand. And I, for one, was just glad to have seen it while it still retained some shreds of Spanishness.

C/Gran Vía 80, 8º piso, ofic. 814 Tel: 917 587 277 My Metro Plaza de España

www.castillatours.com

English Speaking Travel Agency

wordS by mATT JohNSoN

The Red Coats are coming

Our GPS rattled out commands in a matter-of-fact, polite British accent (as modern robots tend to) as we

drove. “Bear…left.” Shifting in my seat to avoid the jet of AC, I flipped the shutters toward the ceiling and tried rubbing the goose bumps off my arms. Outside the billboards whizzed by, advertising rest areas or radio stations or one of a dozen golf courses – islands of oasis-like green puddles amidst the brown scruff of wasteland that was inland Murcia.

I closed my eyes and yawned, the parting words of our villa neighbour still ringing in my ears. I pictured his wrinkled face grinning while he pointed: “Hey!” He stood, squinting, liver-spotted hand on a surely soon-to-be-plastic hip. “If you boys are up for meeting some girls before you get outta town, there’s a real nice club up the road there a ways.” Thinking that we’d finally met someone with even worse drinking habits than ourselves (it was, after all, 11am) we managed a meagre, “OK,” gave him a smile and wave, and started pulling away. But he wasn’t done. “You can get a real nice girl up there for a good price,” he informed us without blinking. “Only 150 quid a night!” Unsure how to respond to this adulterous advice, we gave him a grateful nod, hit the gas, and sped away.

Well, there’s somebody’s grandpa for ya, I thought. Only in Murcia…

Backwards from there, I did a mental rewind to the start of our trip to Spain’s south-eastern costa blanca. When we pulled into the development where our friend’s villa was, still a 15-minute drive to the beach, we knew this was not your typical coastal condo. Super-wide, lane-less avenues wound through a funhouse maze of tiny yellow houses – all packed right up against one another like madrileños on a Monday morning metro. The license plates on the cars squeezed into mattress-sized driveways all had foreign tags, mostly British or German. There were no children running around with water wings. No sound of music or laughter. No bikinis! A few senior citizens waved at us as we passed. A few more just stood and stared. In fact, after a

minute or two, there didn’t seem to be a person under the age of 55 in the entire community. Hmmm, I thought. They seem awfully pale to be Spaniards…It went unspoken for the moment, but there was a sneaking suspicion that we weren’t in Kansas anymore.

While driving through the nearby town of Mazarrón en route to the beach, this became strikingly clear. Expecting to find quiet streets littered with old men in three piece suits out for a Saturday smoke-&-stroll, we were greeted instead with sandals, fanny packs (or bum bags as their owners would call them), English swimwear signs, and a seemingly endless stretch of restaurants named (insert Asian adjective) Wok.

The car started filling with confusion. Were we in England or Spain? Did we need to exchange currency? Were we in fact driving on the wrong side of the road? These questions, while answered in due time, were less important than the more pressing matter at hand – getting out of the car, onto the beach, and on the fast track to intoxication. And, luckily enough, intoxication in Murcia came cheap.

Back home, a beachside brew would cost you arms, legs, dignity, pride, firstborn children, etc. – here you could sip a heaping jarra with your toes in the sand for little more than a fistful of suelto. And at night, although we’d missed the high season by two weeks, the karaoke bars around the area, even on a Sunday, were still slammed – not by crazy youths out for a night on the town mind you, but by what we learned to be a growing number of English expatriates who’d come to spend their twilight years living cheaply and comfortably in the Spanish sunshine.

I couldn’t help wondering though, car speeding back to civilization, about the cultural and political implications of this immigrant infestation. What if thousands of Spaniards, upon retiring, upped and moved into my backyard? I pictured our avenues shrinking to cobblestone corridors, fast food chains being

Looking forward to a quaint corner of Iberia, Matt Johnson found in Murcia ‘a Spain dubbed into English’ – with a rather different English-speaking community from the one in Madrid.

I could see grumpy rednecks, grumbling between snuff spits as the battle between country and flamenco shattered eardrums and speaker systems alike – each side fighting to drown out the other.

Murcia

TrAVEL EuropE


Born again in Renaissance city

From the moment I stepped off the train I was enveloped in a sense of history and belonging. History is not only a distant memory to be occasionally

read in textbooks. No, in Florence history is lived and breathed by each Florentine daily. This kind of fervour beckons to you, calls you, and ultimately demands that you tell everyone you know to discover Florence.

Julius Caesar, the man, the legend and founder of Florence. Yes, the Julius Caesar. Are you impressed yet? Although initially constructed around 59BC to provide a settlement for his veteran soldiers, Florence or Florentia as it was known then, meaning “the flourishing” has done just that, becoming the great city that you see today. Having endured many changes in leadership and a bout with the Black Death, one thing is certain: art, culture, and people thrive.

This all sound wonderful? You ready to get on board, destination Florence? There are many ways in which you can arrive, most popular by plane. Direct flights from Madrid vary somewhere around the 100€ range. If you are eyeing a more budget friendly approach, don’t fret. There are some carriers that brag 10€ flights to Milan, a mere three hours by train to Florence. Train fares from Milan are also affordable and provide you with the unique opportunity to see some of the world’s most beautiful terrain.

There has been much debate amongst those who have travelled through Italy, as to which city is

the best. For me, Florence was, and continues to be one of my absolute favourites. Having been disenchanted by some of my previous experiences in Italy, I found myself pleasantly surprised at what I found. Walking the streets of Florence was neither tiresome nor scary. The people were friendly and extremely helpful. Monuments and buildings were graffiti-free, a welcome sight to my graffiti wary eyes. Streets were also illuminated and clean, and seemingly bursting at the seams with shops and places to eat.

The area of San Niccolo boasts two amazing qualities: an all-you-can-eat menu for 10€, and being within walking distance to the Ponte Vecchio. If you are looking for an even better deal, there are many neighbourhoods, including Rifredi that have pizza, pasta and more for fewer than 5€. Don’t forget the wine! Take advantage of your proximity to the rolling hills of Tuscany and treat your taste buds to a bit of wine tasting. A self proclaimed “wine-maniac,” I stowed several bottles of Chianti in my suitcase for future enjoyment.

The Ponte Vecchio (old bridge) towers impossibly over the Ano River, and is one of Florence’s most recognizable landmarks. Having originally been occupied by butcher shops, these ultimately gave way for what you see today: jewellery, art and souvenir shops. Most worthy of admiration are the jewellery shops. It was nearly impossible to prevent my mouth from gaping open as I glared at the breathtaking jewels before me. All of the jewels seemed to stare back with equal intensity, begging to

be bought. Impeccable Italian taste is evident, as each creation is its own work of art.

Do you know that smell of your biggest weakness, your biggest vice? That smell that always seems to find you no matter where you are, and subconsciously draws you in? For me that smell was that of the leather market of Florence. Conveniently located close to pretty much everything in the heart of the city, the leather market has a little something for everyone: shoes, purses, wallets, jackets. You name it, they have it. And don’t forget all of those people on your gift list, they would simply die for a piece of Florentine leather.

For museum lovers, there is the magnificent Uffizi. Not only is the name fun to say, but the contents will also leave Uffizi on the tip of your tongue for the duration of your stay. One of the oldest and most famous art museums of the world, the Uffizi holds pieces by artists Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo, to name a few.

The Santa Maria del Fiore, a.k.a. Il Duomo is an absolute must see, and a perfect way to wrap up your stay. From the white marble facade to the intricate stained glass and interior filled with tombs, the Duomo is sure not to disappoint. Likewise are the Gates of Paradise. Exquisite bronze doors depicting biblical scenes and commissioned by Ghiberti, the Gates of Paradise will have you standing before them, mesmerized.

The only problem you will have with Florence? The newfound desire to tell everyone you know, to discover this Italian gem.

Julius Caesar, the man, the legend and founder of Florence. Yes, the Julius Caesar. Are you impressed yet? Although initially constructed around 59BC to provide a settlement for his veteran soldiers

Charlene Lidyard guides you around Firenze, the capital of Tuscany – a place of such splendour that it even smells classy.

wordS by chArLENE LIdyArd

Florence

TrAVEL phoToS

Intermediate section

LINgo STAr


wordS by SuSANA LopEz

the section for learning spanish

Dirige tus cartas a [email protected]

Querida Lingostar La semana pasada salí a cenar con mis padres, que estaban de visita en Madrid. La comida fue malísima y además nos trataron fatal. Puse una reclamación y me dieron una copia pero ahora no sé qué más tengo que hacer. Gracias por tu ayuda Leo

Hola Leo Hiciste muy bien en poner una reclamación. El proceso es el siguiente: en un plazo de 10 días deberías recibir noticias del reclamado, el propietario del restaurante. Si no lo hace o no te convence su respuesta, debes llevar la copia de la reclamación a la Oficina Municipal de Información al Consumidor y allí te explicarán qué hacer. SuerteSusana

Querida LingostarNo entiendo a los hombres españoles. Llevo un tiempo saliendo con uno y, aunque yo al principio no quería, ahora me gusta mucho. De repente me dijo el otro día que quiere una relación abierta, es decir, estar con otras chicas. Yo pensaba que en España los hombres buscaban novias y compromisos y querían al final casarse. Alex Hola Alex Lo primero es que ese chico no te quiere. Respecto al hecho de que sea español o no, no creo que afecte demasiado en su mentalidad. Hay hombres aquí, como en cualquier país, más tradicionales que otros. Pero lo que te dice no tiene excusa. Mi consejo es que le dejes.Susa

Hola Lingostar Una amiga española se casa en unos meses y quiero organizarle una despedida de soltera que no olvide jamás. ¿Qué es lo típico aquí? Gracias Laura

Hola Laura¡Me encantan las despedidas de soltera! Respecto a qué hacer, depende un poco de vuestro presupuesto. Lo normal es hacer una cena y luego ir de copas. La novia no paga nada durante toda la fiesta. Se le suele disfrazar y además es típico que las amigas le compren regalos, generalmente ropa interior. Que lo paséis muy bien Un abrazo Susa

eL consuLtoRio de Lingo staR

P: Pablo A: Asistente de tierra

P: Hola, buenas tardes. A: Hola, ¿qué tal? P: Bueno, acabo de llegar de París y mi maleta no ha llegado. A: ¿De dónde venías? P: De París, en vuelo directo. A: ¿Tienes el resguardo de la tarjeta de embarque? P: Sí, aquí está. A: Vamos a intentar localizar tu maleta. ¿cómo es? P: Es una maleta pequena, con ruedas y de tamaño mediano. A: ¿Puedes darme tu dirección en Madrid? P: Sí, es la calle Andrés Mellado, 57 2ºB A: Muy bien. Aquí tienes el resguardo. Puedes llamar a este teléfono para averiguar el

estado del equipaje. Allí te darán toda la información que necesitas. P: Gracias. Hasta luego A: Adiós

Lost Luggage Vocabulario

Equipaje > supermarket maleta > suitcasebolsa > bag mochila > rug sackcuadrado/a > squareRectangular > rectangular Grande > big mediano/a > medium sizePequeño/a > smallblando/a > softDuro/a > hard Ruedas > wheels Gris > greyNegro/a > black Azul > blue Rojo/a > redEstampado/a > patterned/printed

Acabo de llegar de Roma > I’ve just arrived from Rome

¿cuál es tu número de vuelo? > What is your flight number?

mi número de vuelo es… > My flight number is…

mi maleta es azul, grande, con ruedas > My suitcase is big and blue, with wheels

¿De dónde venía tu vuelo? > Where did you fly from?

¿cuál es tu número de vuelo? > What is your flight number?

¿cómo es tu maleta? > What is your suitcase like?

Aquí tienes el resguardo > Here is your receipt

Dices Oyes

Expresiones útiles

The Association of European Airlines’ study showed Iberia was the worst airline in Europe for losing luggage last winter. And it’s not only our hapless friends at IB, there are plenty of other airlines flying to and from Barajas who have a talent for losing suitcases. So, touch wood it won’t happen to any of us, but we thought it might be a good idea to prepare you for the unfortunate eventuality.

En el mostrador de equipaje extraviado > At the lost luggage desk

Diálogo

En el mostrador de equipajes perdidos de la T4 de barajas (madrid)

Useful info > If your bags are delayed, airlines usually agree to pay ‘reasonable’ expenses until the luggage is found. The amount paid is subject to negotiation and you may have to fight for a decent payment. If your bags are not found, you must file a claim, which takes some time to process. You’ll normally have to wait six weeks to three months for reimbursement, although some airlines are much more efficient than others.


the section for learning spanish

Si llegas a Santiago por carretera te sorprenderán los numerosos peregrinos que avanzan por la calzada en el tramo final del Camino Santo.

Santiago de Compostela me hace trasladarme a mi más tierna juventud, concretamente al año 1993 cuando decidí, junto con un grupo de

amigos, recorrer unos kilómetros con el objetivo de llegar a la ciudad a pie. Esto es lo que hacen cada año miles y miles de peregrinos que comienzan su travesía en Roncesvalles (Francia) hasta llegar a tocar la mano del Santo 900 kilómetros más tarde. Han pasado muchos años desde entonces y entre medias, he tenido la gran suerte de vivir un año en una de las ciudades más bellas de España. Bella por dentro y por fuera. Lo primero queda patente al visitarla, simplemente dedicando unos minutos a esa Catedral de estilo gótico que parece querer tocar el cielo en la Plaza del Obradoiro. Lo segundo se hace evidente nada más entrar en contacto con sus gentes, que reciben al visitante con toda la hospitalidad del mundo a pesar de su fama de reservados y un tanto desconfiados. Santiago es una de las tres ciudades españolas más populares entre los universitarios junto con Granada y Salamanca. Nada tiene que envidiar a las otras dos en cultura de bares y tapeo. Si pasas por allí, deberías dedicar un poco de tiempo a lo que se conoce como la ruta Paris-Dakar, para la que no necesitas un coche, solo algo de dinero y muchas ganas de beber. Es una tradición en Compostela recorrer la “rúa”del Franco empezando por un bar que se llama París hasta llegar al último de la calle que es el Dakar. Lo más recomendable es tomar “albariño” o “ribeiro”, los vinos típicos de allí. Si después del recorrido, buscas un poco de descanso, no hay problema. En todo el casco

antiguo podrás encontrar cafés y restaurantes muy acogedores y sobre todo con mucha personalidad. Recomiendo sin duda la “Casa das Crechas”, un bar donde se puede escuchar música celta en directo. En Santiago sigue viva la costumbre de ofrecer conciertos en bares y cafés, algo que ya se está perdiendo en otros lugares de España. En muchos de estos lugares tendrás la oportunidad de probar la “queimada”, la bebida más gallega, de la que algunos dicen que tiene efectos curativos. De cualquier forma, se trata de un brebaje fuerte hecho con aguardiente, azúcar y limón al que se le prende fuego para que el azúcar se queme. El ritual suele ir acompañado de un conjuro, palabras que las brujas (meigas, en gallego) decían en el momento de tomarlo. Esta tradición de la queimada representa al cien por cien el carácter supersticioso de los gallegos, quienes siempre han creído en la existencia de las brujas. Santiago es el escenario ideal para la puesta en escena de estos mitos por sus calles estrechas y empedradas y su halo de misterio. Santiago también es el lugar perfecto para pasear, especialmente por el Parque de la Alameda, pegado literalmente al casco histórico. La primera vez que estuve allí me sorprendió la presencia de dos viejecitas, en forma de escultura. Más tarde descubrí que se trataba de un homenaje a dos hermanas costureras, Maruxa y Morelia, que se dedicaban a pasear por allí despuérs del almuerzo. De ahí viene que se las conozca como “Las dos en punto”, momento del día en el que se dejaban ver por el lugar. Si estás pensando en cuál es la mejor temporada para visitar

Santiago, lamento decirte que el tiempo es prácticamente desagradable durante todo el año. Es continua la presencia del “orvallo”, una lluvia apenas imperceptible pero que te cala hasta los huesos. El día grande de la ciudad es el 25 de Julio, la celebración del Apóstol Santiago. A lo largo de los días anteriores y posteriores podrás ser testigo de celebraciones, conciertos y actos religiosos por toda la ciudad. Merece mención especial el espectáculo de luces, música y fuegos de artificio en la Plaza del Obradorio la víspera del día del Santo Patrón. Si llegas a Santiago por carretera te sorprenderán los numerosos peregrinos que avanzan por la calzada en el tramo final del Camino Santo. El resto, lo dejo en tus manos pues Santiago de Compostela es un tesoro que merece la pena descubrir.

LINgo STArwordS by SuSANA LopEzAdvanced Section

Diario de viajes

Santiago de Compostela

fILm fIrST


DIRectoR: Ken loach cAst: eric cantona, steve evets, stephanie bishop & gerard Kearns

spAnIsh tItle: buscando a eric ReleAse DAte: 27 nov 2009

Looking For Eric

On 21 December 2012, the world will end as we know it. The Ancient Mayans calculated the end of time long ago with their sophisticated calendar system, while New Agers predict a profound

transition and the dawning of the Age of Aquarius Naranja. That’s the premise given to Roland Emmerich, director of Independence Day and The Day After Tomorrow, to do what he most enjoys and what he does best – to make a movie in the disaster and apocalyptic genre with stunning visual effects. Mr Dependable John Cusack heads an ensemble cast, which also includes Amanda Peet, Thandie Newton, Woody Harrelson, Danny Glover, Chiwetel Ejiofor and Oliver Platt.

The Northern Hemisphere’s winter solstice arrives in 2012 and, sure enough, the Earth’s crust begins to collapse and the planet is devastated as the oceans swallow entire continents. The only hope of survival is a series of Noah’s Ark-style super ships made by the… guess… American ‘Institute for Human Continuity’. The promotional hoardings and trailers boldly claim, “The end is just the beginning”. It’s not though, is it? The end is really the main event. That’s not to take anything away from 2012, but precisely what a film like this is offering is to see how the people in charge behave in the situation, how normal people like us behave in the situation, and jaw-dropping effects to show us what the end of the world looks like. It’s going to be good, but it’s not going to be amazing, unless you only care about special effects.

spAnIsh tItle: 2012 ReleAse DAte: 13 nov 2009

DIRectoR: roland eMMerich cAst: John cusacK, chiwetel eJiofor, aManda peet & oliver platt

All that Middle-aged Manchester postman Eric Bishop has to show from two failed marriages are two teenage stepsons under his care and a grown-up daughter with her own baby. When

childminding duties for his grandchild

force Eric to see his first wife, Lily, the already depressed postman suffers a nervous breakdown and ends up in hospital after driving the wrong way around a roundabout.

A do-it-yourself group therapy session with his concerned postie mates prompts each man to visualize being in the skin of someone he admires and would like to emulate. In Eric’s case, he imagines looking through the eyes of his namesake and Manchester United hero ‘King’ Eric Cantona. Later indulgence with his stepson’s marijuana stash leads Eric to start having visions of the French football legend, who quickly becomes a life coach and confidant to the beleaguered Mancunian. Just as we begin to think the film is an uplifting (albeit lifting slowly from the gutter), slightly schizophrenic buddy movie, events take an ugly turn for the worse and in our guts we can feel a Ken Loach misery-fest in full working order coming on. Three years ago, that’s maybe how it would have ended, but in the midst of a worldwide recession, the cinema-going public need hope as much as anyone else. Loach eventually rescues us from despair, but he has to abandon the realism previously built up to deliver us from evil. But if we can suspend belief for Eric Cantona life coaching a Manchester postman, we can buy into the film’s finale also.

We come out a lot happier from this than we have from any Ken Loach film for a long time. This director’s films should really be compulsory viewing in Spanish schools; it would soon put an end to misconceptions of Britain being all about reserved ladies and gentlemen and five-o’clock tea.

spAnIsh tItle: un lugar donde quedarse ReleAse DAte: 20 nov 2009

Away We Go

2012

DIRectoR: saM Mendes cAst: John KrasinsKi & Maya rudolph

This quirkily comedic coming of age road movie is something rather unexpected from American Beauty director Sam Mendes. Its main characters are Verona, an illustrator of

medical textbooks, and her boyfriend, Burt, who sells insurance futures to insurers by telephone. The film opens with Burt performing what turns out to be an unconventional pregnancy test on Verona. We rejoin the couple, in their early thirties, six months into the pregnancy when Burt’s parents break the news that they are leaving to fulfil their long-held ambition of living in Antwerp, Belgium. Burt and Verona, who had moved from Chicago to be near their family, are left feeling unanchored and directionless, as well as hopelessly unprepared for parenthood. While they aren’t necessarily poor, they seem not to have moved on from the lifestyle of their long-gone student days; they live in a ramshackle prefab without proper heating and cardboard covering a broken window. Amidst

their self-doubt, Verona asks Burt, (interestingly, the mantra of almost every thirty-something expatriate in Madrid if you go to the right/wrong bars) “Are we fuck-ups?” It seems she is asking the audience too. With no sense of belonging and no ties apart from to each other, the pair decide to find a new home for themselves and their unborn child.

Their journey takes them to Phoenix, Tucson, Madison (Wisconsin), Montreal and Miami, presented as a series of vignettes, before they finally find their home. The film does dander along without great pace, but it gets where it sets out to. Burt and Verona are refreshingly and unwaveringly, truly in love. The flawed parenting and relationships they encounter on their travels convince them they are, after all, much less fucked up and much more fortunate than they thought.Watch it, especially with someone you love. But, if you’re single and have suffered heartbreak in the past, you might feel they’re rubbing your nose in it. In which case, give it a miss. You’ll spend money on your ticket, and three times as much on drowning your sorrows afterwards.

wordS by Luc cIoTKowSKI

This director’s films should really be compulsory viewing in Spanish schools; it would soon put an end to misconceptions of Britain being all about reserved ladies and gentlemen and five-o’clock tea.

“The end is just the beginning”. It’s not

though, is it?


fILm fIrSTnew Movie releasesPl

ease

not

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etai

ls o

f all f

ilms

are

corr

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of p

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ReleAse DAte: 28 oct 2009spAnIsh tItle: this is it

ReleAse DAte: 30 oct 2009spAnIsh tItle: destino final 4

ReleAse DAte: 6 nov 2009spAnIsh tItle: adventureland

ReleAse DAte: 6 nov 2009spAnIsh tItle: la caJa (the box)

ReleAse DAte: 13 nov 2009spAnIsh tItle: 2012

ReleAse DAte: 16 nov 2009spAnIsh tItle: triage (pendiente título español)

ReleAse DAte: 18 nov 2009spAnIsh tItle: crepúsculo la saga: luna nueva

ReleAse DAte: 20 nov 2009spAnIsh tItle: aMelia

ReleAse DAte: 20 nov 2009spAnIsh tItle: un lugar donde quedarse

ReleAse DAte: 27 nov 2009spAnIsh tItle: buscando a eric

oRIgInAl VeRsIon cIneMAs (V.o.)

Alphaville Golem Address: Martín de los Heros, 14Tel: 915 593 836Zone: CentralPrice: 6.80 €Metro: Plaza de España (Lines 3 & 10)

Rodríguez (Line 3)Pequeño Cine Estudio Address: Magallanes, 1Tel: 914 472 920Zone: ChamberiPrice: 6.50 €Metro: Quevedo (Line 2)

Rodríguez (Line 3)Princesa Address: Calle de la Princesa, 3Tel: 915 414 100 & 902 888 902Zone: Moncloa-AravacaPrice: Mon-Fri 6.20 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 €Metro: Plaza de España (Lines 3 & 10), Ventura Rodríguez (Line 3)

Rodríguez (Line 3)Renoir Cuatro Caminos Address: Raimundo Fernández Villaverde, 10Tel: 915 414 100 & 902 229 122Zone: ChamberiPrice: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 €Metro: Cuatro Caminos (Lines 1, 2 & 6)

Renoir Plaza de España Address: Martín de los Heros, 12Tel: 915 414 100 & 902 229 122Zone: CentralPrice: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 €Metro: Plaza de España

Rodríguez (Line 3)Renoir Princesa Address: Calle de la Princesa, 5, Pje. Martín de los HerosTel: 915 599 872 & 902 229 122Zone: CentralPrice: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 €Metro: Plaza de España (Lines 3 & 10), Ventura Rodríguez (Line 3)

Rodríguez (Line 3)Renoir Retiro Address: Narváez, 42Tel: 902 229 122Zone: RetiroPrice: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 €Metro: Ibiza (Line 9)

Rodríguez (Line 3)Verdi Address: Bravo Murillo, 28Tel: 914 473 930Zone: ChamberiPrice: 6.50 €Metro: Canal (Lines 2 & 7), Quevedo (Line 2)

Rodríguez (Line 3)Yelmo Cines Ideal Address: Doctor Cortezo, 6Tel: 902 220 922Zone: CentralPrice: 7.10 €Metro: Tirso de Molina (Line 1)

Win five cinema tickets for you and your friends!Yelmo Cine Ideal, the biggest original language cinema in Madrid, are giving away five free tickets to see a film of your choice at their theatre in Calle Doctor Cortezo. All you have to do is answer the following question:

How many English League titles did Eric cantona win?

Send your answer and contact details in an email entitled “Yelmo Film competition” to [email protected] before 17 November 2009. Good luck to you all!

Join our monthly Cinema Club

We go once a month to see the latest releases.

Sign up at www.europeanvibe.com

El Clásico

SporT


There’s a wee restaurant below my flat in Chamberí named for the owner, a Portuguese dude called Nino. Well, Nino hates Real Madrid with a passion,

so, along with the giant plasma screen, it makes his joint a decent place to watch El Clásico. So there we were standing at the door, twisting our necks in intolerable directions last May watching Barça in the process of giving the boys in lilywhite a 6-2 spanking when some old punter comes walking by. He asks us who we’re supporting and we all shout “¡Barça!” to which he goes off on a rant during which I only understand the word “Catalanes”, though I swear it was preceded by the Spanish word for ‘prostitute’…

This rivalry verging on hatred is what we’ve come to expect of the derby between the big two from the Castilian and Catalan capitals. If you’ve ever witnessed the madness of derby day in Glasgow or Buenos Aires, you’ll probably think this is a light picnic in Retiro Park in comparison. But there’s a lot of history hiding behind Barça-Real, and the rivalry is almost as old as the fixture. The teams first played each other in 1902 (a 3-1 Barça victory). After a 5-2 win for the hosts three years later in Barcelona, the then Madrid F.C. players and officials reportedly created a stir during the post-match meal with accusations of unsporting play, ungentlemanly heckling from the local crowd and referee bias. Thus was born the clubs’ mutual dislike and the madridista reputation for being rather sore losers.

Though Madrid became ‘Real’ in 1920 in honour of King Alfonso XIII, it may surprise some to know that, during the Second Republic of the 1930s, Madrid dropped the regal connotations from their name and later added to their shirt a dash of purple allegedly as a further endorsement of the regime. But after the end of the Civil War in 1939, things began to change at the club from Chamartín. Real was, for the duration of the dictatorship, regarded as the ‘regime team’ and the eye of suspicion was cast towards their many achievements. There was an incident soon after the resumption of nationwide competition when Franco’s head of state security entered Barça’s changing room before a Generalissimo’s Cup game against Madrid. It was alleged that he

asked the Catalans not to be getting any funny ideas about winning as Real’s number one fan, El Caudillo, was being very generous by even letting them play. Madrid went on to win the game 11-1. Apart from this incident though, there is little plausible evidence that Franco and Co. gave the team help with dodgy referees, sneaky kicks into players legs from the police or lead pipes left by Reverend Green in the lounge.

Let’s keep the Barça-Madrid rivalry in perspective, though. One Old Firm day, winding through the streets of Glasgow, the Ballymena Celtic supporters’ bus was approaching Parkhead when a pool ball came flying through the window, courtesy of a Rangers’ fan. Well, not quite through, but, had anyone’s head been against the window, some sense might have been knocked into them. It’s even worse around the stadiums of Boca Juniors and River Plate whenever they play. Those fans have guns. Enough said. I’ve never heard of any major violence at Madrid vs Barça, but there is a tinderbox atmosphere in and around the game. It’s probably not wise to wear the other team’s colours outside the ground, especially with this time being the Nou Camp’s turn as host.

And what predictions for 29 November? Well. Real have gone out sticking their fingers up to the recession and spending wildly. The new age of the Galácticos is here with Cristiano Ronaldo, Kaká, Xabi Alonso and Karim Benzema lining up this year in white. Barça don’t look too worried though, manager Pep Guardiola having procured Zlatan Ibrahimovic’s services. He joins Thierry Henry and Lionel Messi up front and also veteran captain Carlos Puyol, Andrés Iniesta and Dani Alvés. The aforementioned 6-2 slight at the tail end of last season will be playing on the madridistas’ minds and this club fixated with winning (and paradoxically, losing) has obsessively high expectations this time.

So, the Catalan donkey and the madrileño bear are face to face in the Spanish bullring, snorting and scraping the ground, ready for battle. Whatever your views of Castilian versus Catalan culture, your politics regarding the Spanish centralism versus the regions thing, it will be, as always, a great spectacle of soccer to see.

Spain’s titans finally square to each other in the first clásico of the season. Martin Quinn explains why, on 29 November, you’re either Madrid or you’re Barcelona – there’s no fence to sit on.

the Catalan donkey and the madrileño bear are face to face in the Spanish bullring, snorting and scraping the ground, ready for battle

Free Week Triskels- Audrey- Turtles La Parada Numero 12 Barones de la Birra A Team Apart All Blacks Finbars 67 Atletico Cero Five Corners Real Monks Moores Tribunal Finbars Celtic FC Británico de Madrid Santana Madrid Reds Atlético Retiro

november fixtures08/11/09

Barones de la Birra Free Week All Blacks Triskels- Audrey- Turtles Atletico Cero La Parada Numero 12 Real Monks A Team Apart Finbars Celtic Finbars 67 Santana Five Corners Atlético Retiro Moores Tribunal Madrid Reds FC Británico de Madrid

15/11/09

Free Week All Blacks Barones de la Birra Atletico Cero Triskels- Audrey- Turtles Real Monks La Parada Numero 12 Finbars Celtic A Team Apart Santana Finbars 67 Atlético Retiro Five Corners Madrid Reds Moores Tribunal FC Británico de Madrid

22/11/09

Atletico Cero Free Week Real Monks All Blacks Finbars Celtic Barones de la Birra Santana Triskels- Audrey- Turtles Atlético Retiro La Parada Numero 12 Madrid Reds A Team Apart FC Británico de Madrid Finbars 67 Moores Tribunal Five Corners

29/11/09

wordS by mArTIN QuINN

T he EFL, the 5-a-side league for Madrid’s international community, got off to a flying start with 88 goals in the opening day’s

seven matches.Five extra teams entered the league at the last minute, making for a final total of 15. It was decided with the increased participation that all teams will play each other once and then the league split into two divisions according to the standings at that point.The biggest clash of the first weekend was undoubt-edly the match between current champions Finbars Celtic and the team they beat into second place last season and dethroned after five consecutive league titles, Santana. In the end, Finbars Celtic were able to pick up where they left off and draw first blood with a narrow 4-3 victory. Their bar mates Finbars 67 also started with a satisfying win after the learn-ing curve that last season was for them. In the only match disputed between two newcom-ers, Moores Tribunal sentenced the Barones de la Birra to defeat in a free-scoring encounter. Real Monks became the first new boys, and the only of the weekend, to beat one of the estab-lished sides. They beat Atlético Retiro by the tightest of margins with the game finishing 5-4.Liverpool supporters club Madrid Reds’ misfortune reflected their Anfield heroes’ recent run as they went down 12-3 to Atlético Cero (last season’s third placed Headless Chickens renamed). Last season’s most improved side Triskels-Audrey-Turtles welcomed Five Corners to the league with a clear message of how competitive it is, the final scoreline settling at 9-4 in Triskels’ favour. The lads representing FC Británicos, the best English-speaking 11-a-side team in Madrid, had a rough induction into the short game at the hands of a rampant All Blacks. The 18-1 dream start for last season’s fourth placed side gives them an early goal difference boost and Diego García’s double hat-trick makes him the first leader of the Pichichi (top scorer) table.. Luc cIoTKowSKI

resultsWeek 1 18/10/09

Finbars 67Juan Fernández 2, Ariel Frigiotti 2, o.g.,

Enrique Garriga

La Parada Numero 12A Scorer 3, o.g

6-4

SantanaDavid 2, Beto

Finbars CelticRob Pinnington 2, Paul Collins, Iñigo Manterola

3-4

Atlético RetiroAlfonso 2, Paco, Luciano

Real MonksEmilio 2, Jorge, Richie, Miguel

4-5

Madrid RedsMark Doran 2, Shane Barett

Atletico CeroDani 5, Christian 3, David Silva, Lucas, Mario, Jimmy

3-12

FC Británico de MadridBobby Wang

All BlacksDiego García 6, Daniel García 5Daniel Andrinal 4, Daniel Alberti 2Rubén Bautista

1-18

Moores TribunalPhil Kester 3, Vincent O’Brien 2,

Chris Johnston 2, Michael Nii Kwame, James Macintosh

Barones de la BirraJonatito 4, José, Carlos

9-6

Five CornersKoki 2, Alfredo 2

Triskels- Audrey- TurtlesFelipe Martín 5, JC Marugan 3, Pete Eaves

4-9

five-a-side football in Madrid


SporT

L ove it or not particularly interested, that’s rugby and the New Zealand All Blacks are a microcosm

of this rule. What Brazil is to football, New Zealand is to its national sport. They’re a classy team of South Seas bruisers with a mixture of New Zealand’s indigenous peoples, European settlers and other native peoples spanning the South Pacific that also populate the country. The team has a near-mythical aura thanks to this native blood and its heritage, best exemplified by the Haka, the pre-match Maori war dance.

The Haka is a great spectacle. This dance would scare the bejaysus out of any invading army for its sheer ferocity and stands as a testimony to the country’s fairly good relationship with its native Maori population, compared to other Euro-settled nations throughout the world. If you were to walk out of the stadium straight after seeing it, you would miss the game while still having seen an amazing spectacle. There have been many variations performed over the years by the team and it has become one of the most famous sights in world sport.

And it’s one of the reasons why the rugby team of New Zealand are so loved throughout the world. Another reason of course being their outstanding

ability on the field of play. At the moment they rank number two in the IRB World Rankings, behind South Africa and are readying up for a European tour. They kick off on the eighth of this month against Wales and play all of the Six Nations teams, bar Scotland and Ireland. The finale is a match in Twickenham against the invitation-only, international selection side, the Barbarians. For the tour, they are captained by Richie McCaw from New Zealand club side Crusaders.

Legend has it that the name ‘All Blacks’ came from a typo made by a journalist during a British tour by a selection of Kiwi rugby players in 1905. The ‘Originals’, as they were called, played as if they “Were all backs”. Back was spelt in the darkest possible form and the rest is history. Well, the fact that their kit happened to be all black might have also been a factor. The myth surrounding the team grew gradually throughout the 20th Century, along with a fierce rivalry with the Springboks which ended with controversy in 1976 with a tour of Apartheid-era South Africa. It led to an African boycott of that year’s Summer Olympics and an agreement between Commonwealth nations to discourage sporting contact with the Afrikaaner regime. This was ignored in 1981 when the government of New Zealand refused to ban a South African tour of the country and it led to serious protests at the matches. The reason given was “No politics in sport”, but the issue was too hot a potato to prevent problems. There was no more contact between the teams until the 1990s when Apartheid had fallen.

Nowadays everyone in rugby are friends (off-field in the bar afterwards, of course) and politics doesn’t really affect the sport as much as other games. The mighty All Blacks are simply a fantastic spectacle and a trip to the land of the kiwi bird for the next World Cup in 2011 would certainly be an unforgettable experience. Here in Madrid, watching a game won’t be a problem, given the amount of Irish pubs, full of fans from the Home Nations and the rising level of Spanish interest in the game and its mystic South Sea war dance. mArTIN QuINN

The New Zealand rugby team visit the Old Continent this month and test their might in a series of matches against some top European opposition.

All Blacks

wordS by Luc cIoTKowSKI & mArTIN QuINN

FIFA World Cup UEFA zone playoffsTwelve national teams order the final round of drinks and watch the fat lady take the stage at the Last Chance Saloon of World Cup Qualifying. Luc Ciotkowski previews the European playoffs.

European PlayoffsGreece v Ukraine

I t is indeed a final op-portunity to appear at the World Cup

for Ukraine legend Andriy Shevchenko and the surviving Greek heroes from the Euro 2004-win-ning team. Several eliminated sides will look at this, arguably the least glamorous and most equally matched of the European playoffs, and fancy they might have been able to beat either over two legs. However, Ukraine eliminated eighth in the world ranked Croatia and suffered only one narrow defeat during the group qualifiers at the hands of England at Wembley. Meanwhile, Greece are armed with UEFA qualifying’s top scorer, goal-a-game Fanis Gekas. Who’ll win? Might depend whose fans throw the most flares on the pitch.

Portugal v Bosnia-Hercegovina

P ortugal will look to their Spanish-based players Ronaldo and Simão for inspiration, es-

pecially after their far from convinc-ing performance in the group stage against a Bosnian side bidding for their first major finals appearance. Bosnia generally impressed in quali-fying until their final group match. Their fans will be hoping they can put the alarmingly ragged defen-sive display against Spain down to having already secured their playoff spot. Portuguese failure and a World Cup without Cristiano Ronaldo would be equally as disastrous for corporate sponsors as it would be disappointing for fans of attractive football.

Republic of Ireland v France

T he juiciest tie of the playoffs is also the hardest to fore-see goals in. Trapattoni has

moulded the Irish into a solid, stubborn unit, in

stark contrast with the French, who appear less like a team and more like a hap-hazard collection of great individu-als. Playing the

return leg of the tie could work to Ireland’s

advantage if they can go well positioned into that second match – the highly dissatisfied and highly critical French crowd

could be more a hin-drance than a help to their

underperforming team. The World Cup will be a poorer place without the Irish or the French, but I think the world’s pubs already know who they want to go through. Expect plenty of nerves all round.

Russia v Slovenia

‘Industrious’ is perhaps the kind-est adjective we can apply to the Slovene national team, but

to disregard out of hand a side who left the Czech Republic, Northern Ireland and Poland out in the cold would be foolish. They have quali-fied for finals via the playoffs twice from two occasions, while their op-ponents this time around have tasted victory and defeat in their two previ-ous playoff experiences. Russia were the surprise package of Euro 2008, dumping the seemingly invincible Netherlands from the competition with the inspirational tutelage of Guus Hiddink and the coming of age of Andrei Arshavin. Hiddink’s men built on that success and cruised to their playoff place behind the powerful Germans (who they kept the pressure on right up to last month’s final group matches). With the impending trip to the infamous artificial turf of Moscow’s Luzhniki Stadium, hard work might not be enough for the Slovenes. But should the lowest ranked UEFA playoff team progress, it would provide the perfect opportunity for the world to finally unconfuse the ex-Yugoslavs with the similarly-named Slovakia. Luc cIoTKowSKI

The Haka is a great spectacle. This dance would scare the bejaysus out of any invading army for its sheer ferocity

Saturday, 14 November 2009 European Playoffs Greece v Ukraine, 20:00Portugal v Bosnia-Hercegovina, 20:00Rep of Ireland v France, 20:00Russia v Slovenia, 20:00

Intercontinental Playoffs New Zealand v Bahrain, TBA (result from first leg 0-0)Costa Rica v Uruguay, TBA

Wednesday, 18 November 2009European PlayoffsBosnia-Hercegovina v Portugal, 20:00France v Rep of Ireland, 20:00Slovenia v Russia, 20:00Ukraine v Greece, 20:00

Intercontinental PlayoffUruguay v Costa Rica, TBA

cuLTurE


Both phone alarms sound simultaneously, startling my head from the pillow. I blindly jab at each snooze button – a couple quick nine minute siestas – until my feet touch down

on the cold floor of my room. The sun’s just started peeking through my shutters. It’s Thursday. As an English teacher in Madrid, Thursday’s the new Friday. Wednesday, the new Thursday. Hardly anyone works Fridays – a constant string of three-day weekends dot our calendar year. I’m not by any means a morning person, but the daily battle waged with either one of my snooze buttons is easier on Thursday. Everything’s easier on Thursday – especially this Thursday because tomorrow is yet another Spanish holiday so none of my students have to work. Today’s going to be a good day.

I dress and eat quickly and pop in to the café downstairs for a small shot of hot liquid energy. Spanish coffee is one of the most powerful weapons of motivation in my alarm clock arsenal. Delicious, fresh, quick, and strong – and black. The grumpy barmen downstairs don’t know me by name, but as soon as I plop down at the bar with a groggy, “Buenos días,” my coffee is already being poured. This makes me feel like a local, like I belong; like I’ve somehow managed to elbow my way into having a place in this city. This feeling is another weapon.

Heart pumping with caffeine, I scurry along with the crowds at Plaza Colón to the metro – a five minute uphill

hike. The gigantic Spanish flag flutters with the light autumn breeze as the sun climbs its way over the downtown skyline. There isn’t a cloud in sight. The flag, the plaza, the immaculate blue sky like a clean slate – all weapons in the alarm clock artillery.

The metro’s crowded, as usual. People all hustling, late, typical Spanish. No one speaks. Mind wandering, I trudge up and down the stairs with this sea of smelly strangers, all occupied by their own thoughts; all wanting to be skinnier or richer or more confident or have bigger breasts or thicker hair or more obedient children or just to be happier in general. To each his own, I guess. Anyways. More stairs still. I remember hearing once that each stair you climb adds one second to your life. I don’t know, but I reckon that the stairs in this city could keep you ticking long enough to see your grandchildren’s grandchildren graduate college, or whatever they’ll be calling it in a century or two down the road. It also occurs to me in the midst of this statistical daydream that every cigarette you smoke takes ten minutes off your life. I figure that if you calculate correctly, between the cigarettes and the stairs, you can live exactly as long as you’re supposed to. But who knows?

At the bottom of the escalator now and back to reality, I pop out my headphones to better hear the morning metro performer of Alonso Martinez. Along with his karaoke machine, feedback-screeching microphone and keyboard instrumentals of “today’s hits and yesterday’s classics,” his gold

chains, sequined shirt, potbelly, gray hair and bowler hat all combine to give him the aura of a washed up Vegas lounge singer – banished from the big stage and sentenced to the Madrid metro until either the cigarettes or the years take him. But neither age nor lack of talent are enough to deter today as he closes his eyes and hollers out his hoarse, heartfelt, two-pack-a-day lyrics for the entertainment of all functioning eardrums coming and going this morning on Line 5. Like so many other things in Madrid, none of this makes the slightest bit of sense – but it does give me a good laugh – and therefore, another weapon.

My first class is at a sports newspaper in the east of town. It’s my favourite class. By far. Not only are the students incessantly cheerful, but they are, without fail, at least 20 minutes late, every day. Instead of being pestered by this seemingly inconsiderate tardiness however, I decide to go with it and try my hand at being productive. During this time I plan lessons for the week, fill out paperwork, study Spanish, or write. Pre-class downtime: another weapon.

Class starts at 9. It ends at 10:30. My students, all thirty-somethings, arrive at 9:30. Either way, my paycheck sees no difference. If anything I’m just happy to be here rather than Torrejón de Ardoz, the industrial armpit of Madrid where I have my other morning class. But whatever. At 9:30, right on queue, my students arrive, telling me that since today is “Friday” we should forgo the phrasal verb worksheets and opt instead for a

The hard times of recession haven’t deterred first year American English teachers from their Spanish adventure. Matt Johnson’s account gives us a peek into the daily survival of one species in the wide and varied fauna of Madrid’s international community.

wordS by mATT JohNSoN

A day in the life:of a first year American teacher

My first class is at a sports newspaper in the east of town. It’s my favourite class. By far. Not only are the students incessantly cheerful, but they are, without fail, at least 20 minutes late, every day.

cuLTurE

breakfast at the café next door. They’ll pay, they assure me. OK, I say. You had me at café. And out we go. My favourite class again, like I said. So while sipping coffee #2 and nibbling fresh tortilla, my students drill me, as always, with questions covering every detail of my life. It gets to the point sometimes where the line gets blurred between whether I’m teaching English or dishing out oral chapters of my unwritten autobiography. Seriously. At least they take notes. Nearly everything I say is met with oohs, ahs, and fits of childlike, spontaneous giggling. They hang on my every word with such fascinated fervour that I almost start believing that whatever crap I’ve just pulled out of my bag of bullshit is actually interesting and clever. It’s not though. Trust me. I am, essentially, the court jester; their bi-weekly morning entertainment. Kids have cartoons. My students have me.

When class/breakfast is over I have four hours to kill until my next group. Once again, another half empty glass situation. I choose to be optimistic though and continue demonstrating my Spanish-ness by taking a siesta. Who doesn’t honestly love naps? Honestly? This type of thing would never fly at midday in the Anglo Saxon world. Alas, Spain. Siesta: another weapon.

My next class is at 2:30. I struggle but win snooze button battle #2, and hop back on the metro to the Picasso Tower. The company is AIG, their office on the 39th floor. Although I’m there, in their office, in the middle of the day, my students, still, are fifteen minutes late. So I commence with the wise spending of time by studying Spanish. For the record, my Spanish is offensively awful. It is however, functional enough to communicate basic needs (i.e. ordering and paying for various sized beers and coffees). I never studied Spanish back home unfortunately, but I did at least come here equipped with one solid sentence in my repertoire: Los niños estan saltando. The children are jumping. So far it hasn’t come in handy. I do still keep my eyes peeled for jumping children though. Just in case.

Back to it now. My students, four women of about 30, take English classes because they actually use English in their jobs. My first class is an all-Spanish newspaper. My students from there never to my knowledge

actually use English in or outside their jobs. Ever. Seeing as they’ve yet to catch onto this fun fact however, I remain employed. Anyways. So, when I walk into the office, my students are usually at their desks or at lunch. Spanglish is being spoken everywhere. I’m not certain, but this, I imagine, is what it must feel like to live in Miami.

So, four women students, all older than me, eventually all file in by 3:15. Unlike my morning class, when tardiness is acceptable/encouraged, this is a frustrating nuisance. Like a well planned attack, they strategically time their entrances by ten minute intervals. This causes me to stop teaching, say hello, ask how they are, pass them the attendance sheet, tell them what page we’re on, and restart. The Spanish salutation process takes about ten minutes. They come in every ten minutes. There are four of them. I therefore spend half the class period studying Spanish and saying hello. Again, these punctuality problems in no way affect the number of zeros on my paycheck. On the occasion that we do cover a lesson, it’s most often from the textbook provided by my teaching agency (in case you didn’t know, teaching agencies are companies hired by businesses to hire teachers to teach their employees, if you follow me). Most everyone I know works for a teaching agency.

My next class, luckily enough, is in the same building, for one hour. My students are three guys in their early twenties who do some type of computer work. They’ve tried explaining but I’m not sure exactly. Surprisingly, they’re all on time today. The guys speak a much lower level of English than the women, which is perfect for me. See, for more elementary English, no matter what you do in a lesson, the students are going to at least get something out of it. That’s why it’s the best. No matter what, as long as they’re learning something, you feel like you’re being useful with your life – spreading the English language, giving back to the global community. Basically, at the end of the week, it makes you want to give yourself a great big pat on the back.

After the hour I have teaching the guys I head to the Regalia tower for my last class of the week, two stops north in Plaza Castilla. At 6:00 sharp I arrive to their office and pull out my laptop to do some pre-class

downtime writing. At 6:15, as always, my students show up, all smiles, ready for the long weekend. This class, like the one before, is elementary. Today we are learning how to give directions in English. Instead of learning how to give directions in English though, all my students want to do is talk about the weekend, so I sit quietly and correct their mistakes on the whiteboard. One is going to visit her parents in Toledo. The other, to a park somewhere to enjoy some sunny weather walking. I tell them that sounds nice – I’ll probably just stay in Madrid and relax with friends. By relaxing with friends I mean we’ll binge drink all weekend and stay out at clubs until the sun is up and cafes are open for breakfast. I don’t tell them the last part, and do a mental knock on wood that I won’t see them at any point during this debauchery. They nod their heads and smile as I talk. I think they understand about 50% of what I say.

So, for the rest of the hour, as we stumble through prepositions and street maps, my eyes can’t help from darting to the clock every two minutes. The weekend is so close. I can smell it. It’s the Thursday ritual of waiting for that school’s-out-for-summer feeling: the rest of the week flies by, all four days crammed together into that one last hour. It’s like the exact opposite of a kinked hose – but with time, not water.

When 7:30 does finally come around, it’s all I can do to keep from flinging my textbooks into the air like graduation caps in celebration of my three-day freedom. Another week gone by. Another set of satisfied students. Another job (for the most part) well done. After giving myself a congratulatory pat on the back, I hop on a bus with the rest of the rush hour weekenders and head home to shed my laptop and textbooks – the ol’ workweek ball & chain. With anchor now up, it’s time to set sail once more on another madrileño weekend adventure. Visions of tapas and frosty mugs have been dancing through my head all week – now’s the time to make that dream a reality. With a belly full of olives, chorizo, and cervezas, who knows where the night wind will blow us? Who knows who we’ll meet? Who knows what we’ll do? Who knows, who knows? That’s the beauty of it all; this strange Spanish odyssey. And, well – that’s my Thursday for ya.


Please send your CV to: [email protected] or call 91 455 0273 www.hotenglishmagazine.com

We are continuously recruiting TEFL-qualified, native English teachers

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We offer good rates of pay and timetables and excellent pedagogical support from our teaching and editorial team, plus our

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Teach Englishwith hot English languagE sErvicEs

no matter what you do in a lesson, the students are going to at least get something out of it. That’s why it’s the best. No matter what, as long as they’re learning something, you feel like you’re being useful with your life – spreading the English language, giving back to the global community.

Basilicco Santa Teresa, 12 ( Alonso Martinez). Tel: 91 308 0102 El Gaucho Tetuán, 34 ( Sol). Tel: 91 522 4793 La Vaca Argentina Bailén, 20 ( La Latina). Tel: 91 365 6654

Argentinian

Taqueria del Alamillo Pza. del Alamillo, 8 ( La Latina). Tel: 91 522 0850 Tepic Pelayo, 4 ( Chueca). Tel: 91 522 0850

MexicanCiao Apodaca, 20 ( Alonso Martinez). Tel: 91 447 0036Italian

Artemisa Tres Cruces, 4 ( Gran Vía). Tel: 91 521 8721 Ceres Topete, 32 ( Alvarado). Tel: 91 553 7728EcoCentro de Esquilache 4 ( Rio Rosas/Cuatro Caminos). Tel: 91 553 5502El Vergel Pso de la Florida, 53 ( Príncipe Pío). Tel: 91 547 1952Isla del Tesoro Manuela Malasaña, 3 ( Bilbao). Tel: 91 593 1440La Bio Tika Amor de Dios, 3 ( Antón Martín). Tel: 91 429 0780

food

eAt out guIDe


what do you fancy tonight?

Food To Go

Indian

Taj Mahal c/ Belén, 12 Chueca/Alonso Martínez

Bright, colourfully furnished indian restaurant located in Madrid’s trendy Chueca area. Open since 1985, it is a busy little place and quite reasonably priced at around 18/20€ per head. 3 course lunch or “menu del día” is served from 1.30pm- 4.30pm, dinner from 8.30pm- 12.30am. Open every day. Tel: 91 391 4586

Curry’s Indian Restaurant c/ Silva, 16 Callao

Brand new indian restaurant located in the Heart of Madrid. Traditional Punjab dishes served by friendly indian staff. Call for details of special Bollywood dancing shows performed in the restaurant.Open 1-4pm and 8pm-midnight. Tel: 91 523 4570www.currys.es

Il Piccolino Della Farfalla c/ Huertas, 6 Antón MartínLa Farfalla c/ Santa María, 17 Antón Martín

Centrally located Argentinian steak house with a rustic, welcoming atmosphere. Enjoy traditional Argentinian cuisine such as pizza, pasta, and grilled meat. Variety of vegetarian options available. Open every day ‘til late. Average price 15/20€ per head, lunch menu only 9,50€.Il Piccolino Della Farfalla Tel: 91 369 4391La Farfalla Tel: 91 369 4691

Mister India

Brand new indian restaurant in Madrid! Exquisite indian cuisine, in a stunning and central location, right beside Madrid’s famous Plaza Mayor. Terrace now open. Tel: 913 669 099 Mob: 662 503 469

Plaza de la Provincia, 3 Sol/Antón Martin Plaza de Lavapies, 5 Lavapies

Modern/International Cuisine

Toma c/ Conde Duque, 14 Plaza de España

Creative cuisine in a casual, friendly atmosphere. Lunch served Tuesday to Friday, Dinner served Tuesday to Saturday, brunch served on Sundays. Tel: 91 547 4996

Chill Out Caché c/ Cardenal Cisneros, 11 Bilbao

Chill Out Caché, an amazing place to discover. An atmosphere with an oriental touch, where you can “tapear”, try our creative cuisine or have a tea or cocktail on one of our spectacular Balinese beds. Tel: 91 445 5157 www.chilloutcache.es

Chil l out

Caché

Top Mr. Pollo c/ Eguilaz, 14, Esq. Luchana Bilbao

Come and enjoy our delicious chicken and burgers, slow roasted to perfection and accompanied with garnishings, salads and other chicken specialties. All this in a bright, fun, and youthful atmosphere! Tel: 91 445 9849

Monks Bar & Restaurant c/ Capitán Haya, 23 Cuzco/Bernabéu

Enjoy contemporary grill cuisine such as burgers, chicken, and shrimp in untraditional Eastern décor while watching your favorite sports on a big screen. Conveniently located near Santiago Bernabéu Stadium. Tel: 91 556 6776 www.monks.es

Sandwich Time C/ Fernando el Catolico, 80 Moncloa

The ideal place for quick sandwiches, salads, and desserts for people on the go. Perfect for every students’ budget too! Ask about our student specials! Tel: 91 544 2364

SANDWICH TIME

El Estragón Pl. Paja, 10 Madrid de los Austrias La Latina

A pleasant surprise for non-vegetarians. Rustic, Andalusian tavern-style décor, extensive and surprisingly tasty menu. Located in the heart of the bustling La Latina area. Open every day, 1pm- 4.30pm, 8pm-12.30pm. Tel: 91 365 8982

Vegetarian


foodwhat do you fancy tonight?

Spanish

La Tía Cebolla c/ de la Cruz, 27 Sol

Traditional Spanish food, in a traditional Spanish atmosphere, with flamenco music and a terrace right in the centre of Madrid. Try the typical “croquetas de jamón” or the house speciality “Don Paco” dish. Open all day from 10am to 2am. Tel: 91 522 9050

Medina Mayrit c/ Atocha, 14 Sol/Tirso de Molina

Enjoy typical Andalusian food, original décor, oriental dance shows and a cultural fusion every day of the year… Not to be missed!! Tel: 90 233 3334 www.medinamayrit.com

Bazaar San Marcos, 35 ( Chueca). Tel: 91 523 1505Casa Mingo Paseo de la Florida, 34 ( Príncipe Pío). Tel: 91 547 7918La Cueva del Faisán Espoz y Mina,15 ( Sol). Tel: 676 287 654A Cuerpo De Rey Hilarión Eslava, 27 ( Moncloa). Tel: 91 549 4338Mala Madrid Luchana, 17 ( Bilbao). Tel: 91 593 3358

La Casa del Abuelo Victoria, 12 ( Sol). Tel: 91 521 2319Malaspina Cádiz, 9 ( Sol). Tel: 91 523 4024

Spanish Tapas

Ayala Japón Ayala, 67 ( Lista). Tel: 91 309 5625 Furama Paseo de la Florida, 2 ( Príncipe Pío). Tel: 91 548 7658

Korea Cristobal Bordiu, 59 ( Nuevos Ministerios). Tel: 91 554 2034

House Of Ming Pº de la Castellana, 74 ( G Marañón). Tel: 91 561 9827 Tse Yang Pº Castellana, 22 ( Ruben Dario). Tel: 91 431 1888Zen Central Puigcerdá, 6 ( Serrano). Tel: 91 431 1233

Chinese

Japanese

Korean

American

Hard Rock Cafe Madrid offers the genuine American food and we create an authentic dining experience in a rock ‘n’ roll atmosphere: live music and museum.Present the Hard Rock Cafe advert on the right and receive a complimentary Hard Rock souvenir with a €25 purchase (see ad for more details).Tel: 91 436 4340 www.hardrock.com

Hard Rock Cafe Pº de la Castellana, 2 Colón/Serrano

eAt out guIDe

Alfredo’s Barbacoa Lagasca, 5 ( Retiro). Tel: 91 576 6271 Juan Hurtado de Mendoza, 11 ( Cuzco). Tel: 91 576 6271 Foster’s Hollywood Magallanes, 1 ( San Bernardo). Tel: 91 445 6110 Pl. Isabel II, 3 ( Ópera). Tel: 91 542 3172 Princesa, 13 ( Pl. España). Tel: 91 559 1914 Gédeca, 6 ( Alonso Martínez). Tel: 91 310 2369Ribs Abada, 8 ( Callao). Tel: 91 884 3728 Peggy Sue’s Diner Eguilaz, 1 ( Bilbao). Tel: 91 445 1087T.G.I. Friday’s Gran Vía, 76 ( Gran Vía). Tel: 91 275 9492Tony Roma’s Gédeca, 17 ( Alonso Martínez). Tel: 91 310 1488

bITS & pIEcES


AcRoss1 lighter-than-air

craft (3-3,7)9 Jewish day of

atonement (3,6)10 savoury jelly (5)11 hindu holy man (5)12 dictionary of

synonyms (9)13 severe headache (8)15 white whale (6)18 smooth and

shiny (6)19 polish, for

example (8)22 indistinguishable (9)24 bestow (5)26 giant (5)27 indian ocean

nation (9)28 renewal of

supplies (13)

DoWn1 sultry (5)2 special courts (9)3 powerless (8)4 load (6)5 andean beast of burden (5)6 timely (9)7 capital of cyprus (7)8 Mineral used to make plaster of paris (6)

14 March with an exaggerated swing of the legs (5,4)16 reminiscent; resonant (9)17 Military leave (8)18 sparkle (7)20 naturist (6)21 large prawns fried in breadcrumbs (6)23 slight colouring (5)25 pay to graze on another’s pasture (5)

suDoku

crossword 23

easy puzzle 23 hard puzzle 23

1

9 10

11 12

13 15

18 19

22 24

26 27

28

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

8

14 16

17

18 20

21

23 25

T here is someone below me allowing their smoke-damaged vocal chords to be dragged along tunelessly to a classical piano version of Nirvana’s Nevermind.

Sizzling pork dishes and fried fish in-the-pan battle for supremacy with the voice... and an old lady’s crowing beats them all with a whispered conversa-tion not unlike a pneumatic drill... all tumbling through my fifth floor bedroom window from the white plaster void beneath. I live in La Latina.It’s Sunday. Some of us made it to El Rastro for a nice healthy slap in the face of colour and noise, some of us have stayed in bed, cocooned in fresh warm sheets and dreaming up articles for European Vibe, and some are probably still gliding on a coke float from last night and may make it back to real-ity by some time this evening. This isn't a British Sunday...children seem to have been packed away for the weekend and the church has closed for siesta...they say this is a reli-gious country, but apart from the occasional som-bre incense-fragranced marches of the golden lady and drunken priests, or the ball gown-wearing Opus Dei lot, who mingle and network and show off their silks outside their church-slash-palace of a Saturday afternoon, I see no sign of it. For here is a mixture of old and new Madrid, thrown together like paella. The Spanish seafood and the immigrant meat, entangled strangely in a sticky burnt rice of fags and music and cocktails and tourists to pick-pocket, all trying to make at least some money, as we enjoy life a little too much and push thoughts of retirement and desti-tution to one side...it’ll happen later. ¡Ole! I am engaged in teaching my language to a motley crew of idiots and gods, far too many of the one and not nearly enough of the other, but all of them, to a student, convinced that ‘people’ is a singular noun, no matter how much I seethe and threaten to hit them with my dog-eared £1 dictionary. Maybe they are right? Maybe we are one. I have caught myself recently slipping on the verb ‘to be’...I don't know what it are any more. I live ten minutes from the Royal Palace, pay-ing nearly half my wages for a small room without heating, on what was once a road for bandits, Calle Toledo, tapping away in English on a Spanish key-board, thinking away in English in a Spanish land, wondering if, in the sea of cervecerías and cocktail bars, crab claws and old man's spit, I will ever find my way into a people who would probably prefer I was not here. Madrid, and especially La Latina, is a dazzling mess of smell and sound, light and colour, horribly and deliciously corrupt and completely disorganized. The men hack, the women screech, the old people look at you like dirt on the bottom of their zapato, and nearly all handsome men still live with their mother. But nevertheless, I love it. And so, reader, should you. ALIcE bELL

6 2 99 2 4

8 51 9

1 4 2 39 6

1 68 6 7

5 2 1

4 5 8 2 99

6 7 12 9 4

7 8 9 11 4 2

7 6 36

6 2 1 9 7

No.12

My Metro

La Latina


SErVIcESfrEE SErVIcES/cLASSIfIEdS30 words max: (not applicable to businesses) accommodation, clubs, intercambios. send to [email protected]

pAId SErVIcES/cLASSIfIEdS prices: - plain 15€; with colour 25€ (17th of each month) payment must be received by the deadline. call 91 549 77 11 or email: [email protected] to arrange payment.

You are looking for: A well-established, centrally located school

Attractive salaries Free Spanish classes

We are looking for:

Dynamic, motivated professionals with a

university degree and TEFL, with 1+ years teaching experience,

eligible to work in Spain

www.americanlanguage.es [email protected] 5511C/ Rodríguez San Pedro, 2 Metro: San Bernardo

Are you an English Teacher? Come work with us!

WHAT YOU WANT AND MORE!

Interested and have an EU work permit? Contact us NOW:[email protected] TEL: 91-5211554

www.trainingexpress.es

Enjoy your life in Madrid to the full! Work for Training Express,leaders in language learning Great work opportunitiesExcellent rates per hourFree spanish lessonsand much much more...

LANguAgE AcAdEmIES

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while learning Spanish?

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Carpe Diem SpaNiSH SCHOOL

JobS

Event Management. Need to prepare social functions or events in Spain?Call me! Spanish Experienced event manager, I achieve with maximum efficiency and exclusiveness the planning, organization and execution of events, that live on because of their uniqueness.Give me a call at: 669.00.83.93 e-mail: [email protected]

LANguAgE ExchANgE

MADRIDBABEL: Meet Spanish/International people from 30 different nationalities & exchange languages absolutely FREE every WEDNESDAY evening from 21:30 till late. Join us at Café Madrid (c/Escalinata, s/n - metro Opera). Ask for Fran ([email protected]). Website: www.madridbabel.com

INTERCAMBIO DE IDIOMAS GRATUITO cada domingo a las 7 en el pub The Quiet Man (c/ Valverde, 44 - metro Tribunal). Ven a intercambiar idiomas gratis y a hacer nuevos amigos de todo el mundo en un ambiente acogedor. E-mail: [email protected] Web: http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=19732127016

Young non-profit group invite you to share languages (English & Spanish) & interests. Meetings Saturday 10pm. Email: [email protected]

INTErNShIpS Internships now available with a

professional, young and growing Madrid based company. Gain knowledge and experience in the work place in the areas of Graphic Design, Marketing, PR and Journalism. Flexible hours available and full references given on completion of Internship. Send a full CV to [email protected]

cLubS

MADRID FRIENDS Gay social group meets Thursdays at 9pm at Café Figuera, Chueca. Everyone welcome. More-info contact Stefan on 650984329 or Matt on 646091735, email: [email protected]

The British Ladies Association would welcome new members of any nationality. Our activities are raising money for charities, monthly meetings with speakers and also visits to places of interest. www.blamadrid.com

English Reading Circle at the International Institute Library. Monthly meetings to discuss English literature in English. For more information visit www.iie.es or write to [email protected].

Public Speaking and Networking Group. International group that meets to improve public speaking skills. 2nd & 4th Thursday each month at 2030 Bar Locandita (C/Fuencarral 148)Contact:standingovationmadrid@yahoo.

com or Chris 695 513 466. Democrats Abroad Madrid

Info: es.democratsabroad.org Australian Alumni Association

of Spain Meet, network and socialize with people who have studied or lived in Australia and are now in Spain. Email [email protected] to receive updates on upcoming events.

Writers’ group Writers with work in progress and a view to publication welcome. Call Charlie on 91 816 2419, or e-mail [email protected]

The Australian Club in Madrid meets 9pm first Friday of each month at the Irish Rover, Avda. De Brasil, 7. Metro Santiago Bernabeu. For more info call Jeff on 669 458 341, or visit website: www.australiaspain.com/gudonya, or email: [email protected]

Madrid Players, English-language theatrical group. We put on plays, small productions, do in-house readings, improvisations, etc. We meet every Thursday. For info call 91 521 16 98 or 91 564 57 01.

SporTS cLubS

Madrid Hash House Harriers: meets every weekend rain, shine orcredit crunch. We sprint, run or crawl a trail for about one hour somewhere outside Madrid and return to a welcoming can or three of beer. Visit www.madridhhh.com

Looking to go hiking in the mountains in Madrid? if your are looking for friends to go hiking in the mountains in Madrid come with us, it's free. We are an international hiking group- Madrid adventure - 664368418 [email protected]

Private and Semi Private Yoga Classes Offered in English Private yoga classes offered to fit your busy schedule and budget. I will come to your office or home and guide you through a one hour energetic yoga practice in English. 30 Euros per person, discounts offered for 2 or more. I have studied yoga for 5 years under several top teachers in the United States and have instructed yoga privately for 2 years. [email protected]

Thai boxing club in Madrid welcomes new members of all sexes & levels to learn this amazing sport, get fit, lean & hard. Visit www.muaythaimadrid.com email [email protected] or call David on 662164877.

Hockey! Come along and join us at the weekends for mixed non-league field/grass hockey on water-based astroturf. We play at the Federación Madrileña de Hockey (opposite the Somontes sports club on the Madrid-El Pardo road) Email: [email protected] for more info.

Cricket in Madrid Madrid Cricket Club is looking for players of all levels and nationalities. Play in the Spanish league! Contact David (670087637) or Manny (627557572)

Basketball Madrid. Meet new people, get fit and enjoy yourself. People wanted to practice basketball once a week. Active social calander.

Contact Rob at 697 345 613 or visit www.basketballpractice.myfree.org.

Madrid Lions Rugby Club needs you! All nationalities and player levels welcome. More information from Charlie on 636 067 716 and website www.madridlionsrfc.com

Youth Baseball. Close to Alcala de Henares. We need coaches, players and anyone able to help us develop a youth league in this area. Tel Jose on: 91 879 3068 (eves)

AccommodATIoN

Rooms Available 2 Rooms available in newly renovated house of 100m sq.Wifi, AC/Heating, impeccable condition. Metro lines 5 and 6, Oporto area, 10 minutes to University Carlos III, contact Carmela at 687552212 or [email protected] for more details.

Room for rent Big, sunny room to rent in comfortable, refurbished flat, shared with German male+female. Fully furnished room (double bed) with all amenities - lift, concierge, TV, central heating, fully equipped kitchen; walking distance N. Ministerios/C. Caminos/Alvarado. Only Non-Smokers; 470€ - all bills included (cleaning of shared areas, electricity, gas, water, phone, WiFi); deposit 600€. Call: 661 901 979

mIScELLANEouS Bacchus Photography Contest

Present 4 of your best pictures: - portrait - documentary - nature - humour. Rules: Selfmade, and taken in Madrid - Not manipulated (photoshop etc...) - One picture of category - Recently taken, between Oct-Nov 2009 Prizes: 1: Bottle of Jack Daniels 2: Bottle of Rioja 3: A night out drinking with Rick....!!!! [email protected]

Proinc Construction [email protected]

Pancarta.es is Spain’s leading print service for international clients. Everything from exhibitions to business cards. All in English! www.pancarta.es 622 142 385 - 931 924 153

Writers with Talent If you think you are a talented writer and would like to see some of your articles and interviews published, send some examples of your work and a CV to [email protected]

SupporT groupS Alcoholics Anonymous Madrid

meeting. Daily meetings in English Juan Bravo 40, Bis Call 913091947 or visit website: www.madridaa.com

Counselling Madrid. At Counselling Madrid we provide confidential counselling services to the international community. We help clients dealing with anxiety, depression, low self-esteem, GAD and OCD. For more info please visit www.counsellingmadrid.org or send your email to [email protected] Tel 648 087 809

Therapy Group Peter 936759276 or Claudia 934177860

chArITy In aid of Spanish Charities

Charity Bazaar *British Ladies Association* Location: Apartamentos Centro Norte, Mauricio Legendre, 16 (between Pl. de Castilla and Chamartin stations) Sunday, 29, November, 2009 – 12pm to 6pm. Admission: Adults 3€, Children (1-3yrs) 1€. GIFTS,TOYS,BOOKS,SNACKS,CHRISTMAS FOODS, HANDICRAFTS, BAR AND REFRESHMENTS

Wanted: Donations of Books in any language, videos, music CD’s, music cassettes, video games and records/LP’s for British Ladies Associations Christmas

SErVIcES

Pick up your free copy of European Vibe magazine from any of the places listed.To Be On Our Distribution List Email: [email protected]

Alcalá de Henaresinstituto de Hotelería y Turismo

Avenida de AméricaCentro de Estudios internacional - CiS

Avenida de la Pazuniversal Music

Alonso Cano Club de EspañolEl Cano Taverninternational House FinnegansO’ConnersPasajes

Alonso MartínezAreiaBlood BrothersBritish CouncilBritish EmbassyClub ivyFuniversalLa Parpusa

Antón MartínHotel Tryp Atochainti de OroZoe Café

ArgüellesAlways School of EnglishStar CaféFinbar’s icade universityEnforex

Banco de España James JoyceTandem

Aeropuerto T1-T2-T3Barajas information

BilbaoLa MusaLSi Madrid Molly MalonesSchiller international universityThe Things That you Miss

CallaoCurry’sStudio 54Mercado de la Reina

ChamartínOf. Turismo Chamartín

ChuecaAreiaCircus Noodle Bar

Ciudad UniversitariaTulane universityuniversitaria Complutense (servicio de informacion)iES Programme

ColónHard Rock Café

Concha EspinaN.y.u.

CuzcoLarry’s Bar Warner

Diego de LeónBo Finn

EsperanzaSony BMG

Francos Rodríguez universidad Antonio de Nebrija

GoyaCasa del Libro Todo Españo

Gran VíaCarpe DiemShooters

Gregorio MarañónBooksellersFórmula.Sil

Hospital del NorteThe Food Hall

IglesiaAnyway A y Z Spanish Lang.British Counciluniversity of Mississippi

Islas Filipinas American Store

La LatinaLa Taquería de Birra El Estragon

LavapiésCafé BarbieriLa Librería de Lavapies

Manuel BecerraTandoori Station

Metropolitano St. Louis universitySuffolk university

MoncloaAmerican Store European Vibe Office Public House

NoviciadoJ & J Books and CoffeeKaboklaScruffy Murphy’s

Núñez de BalboaSt. George’s ChurchuSA Embassy

ÓperaAcademia ContactoBangkok

Beer StationCafé MadridDark TattooEl imperfectoEurekaHostal Oriente idiomas Plusinternational BookshopLos Amigos-Backpackers’ Hostel O’Brien’sVanadilloZeppelin Viajes

Plaza de España Actual PlusConnect@Las Mil y una Noches TGi Friday’sSiam

Príncipe PíoHotel Florida NorteLokua

República ArgentinaTaste of America

RetiroEle. Madridunidad Medica

Rubén Darío State university of New york Syracuse universityThe Causewayuniversity of Boston

San Bernardo¡Juan Por Dios! Schiller universityWall Street

Santiago BernabéuCrazy MonkEBCGutsirish Rover

Sevilla Al Natural

Babylon idiomasCubikTony’s Caféinterpublic internet Centerinti de OroMiauRegina

SolArtemisaCine idealC.E.E. idiomasDublinersFontana d’Oro El Piccollino della FarfallaHispania CenterHotel Moderno Hostal Los AmigosHostal Oriente Moore’s (Plaza Mayor)NaturbierO’Connell Street O’Neill’sTalking PointTierraVanadio

TetuánOiSE (Academia de Español)

Tribunal CannibalMercado Fuencarral Moore’s Triskel Tavern

Tirso de MolinaCat’s HostelMad Hostel

VelázquezEnglish Centre Thamesis univ. Rey Juan Carlos

Ventura RodríguezLas Mil y una NochesShamrocks irish Bar

- numbers indicate Madrid metro lines Cercanías


C/ Raimundo Lulio, 18 914 480 460 Iglesia, salida Sagunto 3, 16, 61, 147www.gimnasiochamberi.com

Eloy Gonzalo

Segunto

Santa Feliciana

Raimundo Lulio

Santa Engracia

Trafalgar

Cardenal Cisneros

Fuencarral

CarranzaCalle de Sagasta

Luchana

Glorietade Quevedo

Plaza deOlavide

Plaza deBilbao

AngloINFO is your online information source for Madrid – all in English!

4 The AngloFILE Business Directory A comprehensive and easy-to-use directory of local English-speaking businesses in Madrid

4 What’s On Guide Forthcoming events and activities for English-speakers throughout the Madrid region!

4 INFOrmation Pages Relevant, dependable, practical help essential to life in Spain: your local reference library

4 Classifieds & Discussions Buying and selling, local jobs and accommodation, friendly advice and answers to questions

Plus: Much, much more..!

Find it fast at:

www.angloinfo.com

YOUR ROLLERBLADE SHOP IN MADRIDSKATE SALES AND RENTALS - ACCESSORIES - SPARE PARTS - REPAIR SHOP

C/MANUELA MALASAÑA, 28WEB: www.serueda.esEMAIL: [email protected]: 91 591 5210

Bazaar. Please call Pauline on 91-710 5564 or 639 444 392.

bEAuTy, hEALTh ANd fITNESS

SHIATSU-ACUPUNCTURE Lumbar, sciatic, stiff neck, muscular pains, menstrual disorders, allergies, asthma, insomnia, stress, depression, migrains, diarrhea constipation, etc, Carmen YagüeTfno: 639833036, E mail: [email protected] Teacher in the Japanese Shiatsu college in Madrid. Graduate in Traditional Chinese Medicine. Metros: Anton Martin y Tetuan

PERSONAL TRAINER AT HOME OR OUTDOORS The latest methods of training and combination of disciplines at your disposal to motivate, support and help you loose weight and flabbiness, eliminate aches and back pain, and achieve your health and fitness goals. For individuals or couples in English/Spanish. Margreet at 656 948 116. Email: [email protected]

Aerobics club Cheryl 677244074 [email protected]

Personal Trainer www.davidhughes.esTel: 662164877

Hair and Make up artist Shimanda 914457149/699362500 [email protected]

US Psychotherapist David Hugener

915942208 Mobile Hairdresser Sally 918425443

uSEfuL TELEphoNE NumbErS National information 11818 /

11850 / 11828 International information 11825 Madrid tourism Centre: Plaza

Mayor, 27 (bajo), 91 588 16 36 [email protected] Metro: Sol.

Lost and Found: Paseo del Molino, 7 91 527 95 90 Metro: Legazpi

Cancellation of credit cards 90 0 971231 (free call)

Emergencies: 112 National police: 091 Municipal police: 092 Complaints by phone: 90 210 2112 /

91 548 8537 (Tourist and foreigner customer service dept)

Teletaxi: 91 371 2131 / 91 371 3711 Barajas airport (T1, T2 & T3): 91

305 8343 T4: 90 240 4704 www.aena.es Railway: 902 24 02 02 www.renfe.es 24-HOUR PHARMACIES

C/Conde de Peñalver, 27. Tel: 91 402 43 04 Metro: Goya-Lista. C/Ferraz, 13 Tel: 91 547 05 72. Metro: Ventura Rodríguez. C/ Goya, 89 Tel: 91 435 49 58. Metro: Goya. C/ Mayor, 59 Tel: 91 559 23 95. Metro: Sol. C/ Atocha, 46 Tel: 91 369 20 00. Metro: Atocha.

CLÍNICA DENTAL PLAZA PROSPERIDAD

High Quality General Dentistry Clinic with English speaking dentist trained in the USA. Call Dr. Milo Garcia for an appointment and visit our webpage for more information.Dr. Milo Garica TemponePlaza Prosperidad, 3, 2B, 28002, MadridTel: 91 415 8197Email: clinicaplazaprosperidad@yahoo.eswww.clinicadentalplazaprosperidad.com

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European Vibe Magazine November 2009

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