An assessment of the 2013 season and the first year of the community garden, the
implications for future development and growth, and an educational guide for the future
collective community gardening in Hannibal, Missouri.
EVALUATION & EDUCATION MANUAL
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EVALUATION & EDUCATION MANUAL
PURPOSE & OBJECTIVES
This manual is a resource guide for community gardening, for volunteers and
leaders, and for prospective persons or groups interested in developing more
community gardens. Common Ground Community Garden is the pilot project
for Hannibal Parks & Recreation. The content within the report is informed by
research, personal experience of volunteers, and trial and error for best
practices. The manual is organized into several chapters that touch on all
aspects of community gardening at Common Ground and address the needs of
the garden, the successes and failures, general tips and recommendations, &
the educational opportunities that coincide with the sustainable community
gardening model. Although there is ample information available for gardening,
this guide is customized to accommodate the specific needs of the location and
the Hannibal community. The focus of the manual is on creating and
maintaining a sustainable community garden structure, using education to
encourage outreach, and to provide healthy, organic food alternatives.
Recognizing the potential for this model to expand in the community, the
manual can be used as a foundation for other community gardens in the area.
To fulfill the purpose of this document, the manual is divided into seven
objectives:
1.) Introduction to the Garden
2.) Volunteer Outreach & Education Opportunities
3.) Building & Planting
4.) Maintenance & Sustainable Practices
5.) First-Year Evaluation
6.) Future Challenges
7.) Summary & Recommendation
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
The evaluation and
educational manual is the
result of the first year of the
Common Ground
Community Garden and is a
culmination of best practices
and recommendations for
future educational
opportunity and growth in
the Hannibal community.
Feedback from volunteers,
constant research in the
area and an ongoing
assessment all contributes
to this preliminary
evaluation. The final report
is written and produced by
Jessie M. Dryden, social
engineer for Common Sense
for an Uncommon Bond and
garden manager for
Hannibal Parks &
Recreation.
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I. INTRODUCTION TO COMMON GROUND COMMUNITY GARDEN……………pgs. 4-13
A. Overview ………………………………………………………………………………….pg. 4
B. Why Garden?...........................................................................................pg. 5
a. Community Garden Models…………………………………pg. 7
C. What is Common Ground? Mission & Purpose…………………………..pg. 8
a. Why Organic Materials?..............................................pg. 9
D. Program Budget & Deliverables………………………………………………..pg. 10
a. Budget Summary…………………………………………………pg. 10
b. Itemized Budget………………………………………………….pg. 11
E. References………………………………………………………………………………..pg. 13
II. BUILDING COMMUNITY ONE VOLUNTEER AT A TIME……………………………….pgs. 14-37
A. How to Works…………………………………………………………………………..pg. 15
B. Sample Registration Form…………………………………………………………pg. 16
C. Garden & Park Guidelines…………………………………………………………pg. 20
D. Establishing Clear Lines of Communication..………………………………pg. 21
a. Garden Communication Form……………………………pg. 22
b. Garden Task Checklist Form………………………………pg. 23
c. Volunteer Checklist Form………………………………….pg. 24
d. Sign-in Sheet…………………………………………………….pg. 25
E. Conflict Resolution……………………………………………………………………pg. 26
F. Volunteer Tasks: Lending a Helping Hand…………………………………pg. 28
a. Task Timeline……………………………………………………pg. 30
G. Workshops & Education Opportunities……………………………………..pg. 31
a. Compost Information Cards………………………………pg. 32
b. Plant Information Cards for Raised Beds……………pg. 35
H. Outreach Strategy…………………………………………………………………….pg. 36
a. Outreach Timeline…………………………………………….pg. 37
III. URBAN GREENING & CREATIVE GARDENING…………………………………………….pgs. 38-54
A. Reclaim, Recreate, & Revive—From Gray to Green………………………….pg. 39
B. RE-Creativity with Recyclables…………………………………………………………pg. 43
C. How to Build a Raised Bed……………………………………………………………….pg. 45
D. How to Plant: Cooperating with Nature—Square foot Gardening…….pg. 46
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a. Preparing Raised Beds…………………………………………….pg. 46
b. Square Foot Gardening…………………………………………..pg. 47
c. Creative Trellising…………………………………………………..pg. 49
E. Companion Planting………………………………………………………………………..pg. 50
F. When to Grow: Cool vs Warm Season Crops…………………………………….pg. 52
G. When to Plant Chart………………………………………………………………………...pg. 53
IV. MAINTAINING & SUSTAINING COMMON GROUND………………………………..pgs. 55-72
A. Maintaining Raised Beds…………………………………………………………………..pg. 57
a. Watering……………………………………………………………….pg. 57
b. Mulching, Weeding, & Pruning………………………………pg. 59
c. Composting…………………………………………………………..pg. 63
d. Identifying Problems………………………………………………pg. 65
i. Putting the Garden to Bed: Winterizing………pg. 67
e. Seed Harvesting…………………………………………………….pg. 68
f. Seed Packet Definitions…………………………………………pg. 70
g. Harvest Distribution Chart……………………………………..pg. 71
h. Harvest Tracking Form……………………………………………pg. 72
V. FIRST YEAR EVALUATION (2013)…………………………………………………………………pgs. 73-81
A. Overview…………………………………………………………………………………………pg. 73 B. Methods of Evaluation……………………………………………………………………..pg. 78 C. Sample Volunteer Evaluation……………………………………………………………pg. 79
VI. FUTURE CHALLENGES CGCG 2014 & BEYOND.…………………………………………..pg. 82
VII. SUMMARY & RECOMMENDATIONS…………………………………………………………..pg. 83-84
A. Recommendations……………………………………………………………………………..pg. 84
Appendix………………………………………………………………………………………………………pg. 86 Attachments: Composting & Organic Gardening Curriculum, Plant Information Cards
References……………………………………………………………………………………………………pg. 87
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Community gardens are becoming more and more popular as the need to grow food
local is revived. As way to honor Victory Gardens in the 1940’s, Common Ground
Community Garden (CGCG) recognizes the importance of honoring the tradition,
merging Hannibal’s historical agrarian lifestyle with modern permaculture and organic
gardening methods. There are many reasons why community gardens are a modern
trend. Instead of focusing on being a part of the trend, CGCG leads by example and
encourages a change in lifestyle—with the hope of re-creating a more sustainable
Hannibal. This collective community garden is uniquely customized to accommodate
the needs of the community of Hannibal, the local ecological environment specified to
Northeast Missouri, and adapted to the space available.
The Hannibal Department of Parks & Recreation had received grant funds from
Hannibal Clinic Health Services and General Mills allocated specifically for this type of
endeavor but after several unsuccessful attempts to launch a garden project, the idea
for a community garden had remained just a good idea. With the procurement of
approximately 42 flood buyout properties and the seed money available for a
community garden, it seemed that it was time to get growing. And that’s exactly what
inspired Jessie Dryden, Social Engineer with Common Sense for an Uncommon Bond,
to take immediate action. With these resources available, CGCG planted a seed on the
corner of a vacant lot in an industrial area of Hannibal—transforming the blank slate
gravel lot into a functional and colorful work of edible art.
The 2013 growing season was the first year for the garden and development of the
garden plan began in January. From January – April, the plan was developed by
Common Sense for an Uncommon Bond in partnership with Hannibal Department of
Parks & Recreation. The plan proposed the objectives of the garden and the means for
achieving those objectives which are outlined below. The lot, located at the corner of
8th and Warren Barrett Dr., is part of the flood buyout properties. From late April thru
October, the lot underwent continuous development beginning with constructing the
garden, cultivating the landscape, planting the garden, and creating a unique public
space defined by the wattle fence.
RE-creation PLAY
5
There are many factors that contribute to the rising need for community gardens. And,
those who volunteer participate for a variety of reasons. Some come to grow their own
food, others for exercise, and yet some come to be a part of the community. Regardless
of what motivates volunteers, the benefits of gardening and the intrinsic value of
learning how to grow food, is relatively incalculable.
While community gardens are being revived in urban and rural areas, they are not a
modern convention. There is a clear pattern in the growth of community gardens as
they tend to emerge in full force during times of war and economic crisis. Since the
1890’s, community gardens have been vital part of local food production. Gardens
began in Detroit “as a way to provide land and technical assistance to unemployed
workers in large cities and to teach civics and good work habits to youth” (McElvey, pg.
6). During WWI, the government used community gardens to bolster local food
supplies and even incorporated agricultural into public education curriculum.
Community gardens thrived during the Great Depression with approximately 23
million households participating in community garden programs (McElvey). And again,
when Uncle Sam called for support, community gardens responded. “In 1943, 44
percent of all the vegetables eaten in the US were produced in home Victory Gardens
and 20 million American families worked in gardens, in addition to the one-fifth of the
population living on farms. Americans fed themselves and were proud of their ability to
meet their own needs” (Astyk & Newton, 2013). When social capital fled inner cities in
the 1970’s, when cities like Detroit became ghost towns, community gardens again
responded to fill in the gaps not only to beautify neglected parcels but to begin
rebuilding our sense of collective identity as members of a community.
Over the course of this history, community gardens have been the go-to response in
times of crisis. In 2013, gardens are as needed as they ever were as the nation’s
economic climate increases food insecurity. This climate is different from the past as
the knowledge of food production has frittered away over the years as communities
become more dependent on food megastores than local farms for nutritional needs.
This insecurity is related to food access, physical, psychological, and communal health,
climate change, and socioeconomic systems that favor some and marginalize others.
The community garden movement, although gaining momentum in urban areas, is slow
to start in rural communities. For this reason, CGCG is a product of meeting the basics
needs of the Hannibal community in hopes that the garden can increase access to
healthy foods, physical activity, and rebuild community based on the knowledge of
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organic farming—a knowledge and the principles that made Hannibal a thriving
farming community in the past. This time, it is not about victory but about
peacemaking. And for this reason, Common Ground Community Garden is established
as a Peace Garden and is grounded in the principles of peacemaking (i.e. nonviolence,
sustainability, & free).
This strategy uses community gardening as the means of building communities,
promotes social justice, and builds personal character through fostering a sense of
neighborliness, trust, and collective participation. The goal is a sustainable community
and communities would perish without knowledge. What gardening accomplishes is
that it provides a necessary skill for survival—you can lose your job, your house, your
car, all your money, but you can never lose knowledge and it can never be taken from
you. Common Ground Community Garden is funded which means that the only cost of
participation is time and helping hands. Some argue that sharing common ground
creates social problems but without common ground there would be no foundation for
community. By participating in CGCG, community members play a role in enhancing
their communities and in providing healthy food alternatives for their families.
The garden not only delivers healthy food but studies have shown that the benefits are
widespread and ever-growing:
Improve physical health
Improve psychological health
Reduce costs/increase affordability
Build skills & individual empowerment
Strengthen Community
Reduce food miles/carbon emissions
Increase Community Resilience—
Create Sustainable Community
Alleviate Community Hunger
Appreciation of Natural Surroundings
Promote Cultural Heritage
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Healing Gardens All gardens are therapeutic
in their own way but healing gardens can take
two forms: 1.) Herbal & homeopathic remedies
and 2.) Therapy for patients in hospitals &
nursing homes.
Youth Gardens expose a new generation to
food production & agriculture. Youth-led
community gardens are either sponsored by
schools, an existing organization, or a
collective of youth organizations with similar
objectives—to nurture healthy eating habits
while skill-building. Some use the gardens as
outdoor classrooms discussing not only the
benefits of growing food but the advantages of
gardens for experiential learning for a variety
of subject areas.
Cultural or Native Plant Gardens grow food
specific to the geographical location
Entrepreneurial/Skill-Building Gardens are
established to teach job-skills and to train
participants to grow and sell their produce.
Typically, these gardens focus on the business
side of growing.
Demonstration Gardens merge a variety of
gardening strategies into one garden to
illustrate the different techniques used for
growing.
*Adapted from Community Garden Toolkit MU Extension
http://web.extension.illinois.edu/jsw/downloads/20532.pdf
& From Neglected Parcels to Community Gardens
http://wasatchgardens.org/files/images/FromNeglectedPar
celsToCommunityGardens.PDF
Community Garden Models
Rental Gardens are most common and standard
among urban communities is the rental,
individual plot garden in which the garden is
subdivided and maintained by individuals or
families. CGCG wanted to divert from this
garden model for several reasons. First, the
CGCG lot is one of the flood buyout properties
and there are certain restrictions that apply to
developing the space. The primary problem is
that permanent fencing, and structures in
general, are prohibited. Without fencing the lot
is less secure than most enclosed, lock-and-key
community gardens. Another issue with rentals
is that there is a higher chance for unnecessary
conflict among volunteers (i.e. individuals
accusing others of stealing produce or of
sabotaging plants). Lastly, rental plots
encourage individuals to garden as individuals
instead of promoting teamwork.
Collective/Communal Gardens Common
Ground Community Garden uses the collective
gardening model for their program. This model
fosters an environment grounded in teamwork
in which each person volunteers for a particular
task and reaps the benefits of harvest from the
garden as a whole. Produce is then distributed
among participants and at times, donated to
local food pantry. This particular strategy works
well for the location of the garden site.
Food Pantry Gardens are used to stock food
pantries for organizations & food banks. They
are typically maintained by volunteers and all
produce is donated.
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There are many reasons why CGCG exists; however, the primary reason is to build community members’ capacity to grow and cook healthy, affordable food & foster a stronger sense of community through the creation of green, communal spaces. For this reason, CGCG is a garden training center that offers an alternative to grocery store produce showing volunteers that growing your own food is not only the healthier alternative but it is also the economically efficient choice. The goal of the garden is to create a more sustainable Hannibal through building community and growing food. We believe that education is the foundation for sustainable practices. Participation is simple, just volunteer your time and you are rewarded with produce.
To provide common ground for ALL people of Hannibal to not only plant seeds and watch them grow but to educate, encourage, and nurture a strong sense of community through creating green, communal spaces.
Common Ground: A space where fresh organic food – vegetables, herbs, fruit and flowers can be grown and harvested locally so that the people of Hannibal can have a space to grow food and harvest the fruits of their labor. Common Sense: To share gardening knowledge with the people of Hannibal in order to form a more sustainable community including: organic gardening methods, waste reduction & composting, and harvesting & canning. Common Bond: A garden built by the community for the community. To provide a place for social interaction, physical exercise, nutritious organic produce and a sense of well being. A garden that welcomes all people to gather in community—diverse in age, background, and ability—to form relationships as friends and as neighbors, and to foster common bonds, nurturing a sense of common unity.
Let this garden be the first of many in the community that feeds,
sustains, and enriches the community of Hannibal.
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Why Common Ground uses Organic Gardening Methods
There are many reasons why growing organically is a modern trend—no genetic modification of produce (no GMO’s) and no chemicals that are hazardous to your health and to the environment. But the key reason why organic vegetable gardening is so important is the fact that the crops harvested have 50% more nutrients and vitamins compared to those produced by conventional methods. Eating these tasty vegetables can help of people suffering from a number of diseases such as heart disease, high blood pressure and diabetes.
You can buy organic-grown vegetables at your local grocery store. The sad part is that is many cases, these are only around 60% organically sourced. This is why, if you want to eat 100% organically grown vegetables, it is best to grow them yourself. Although CGCG cannot always control how we get the plants—for instance, some plants are donated and treated with chemicals prior to being planted in the garden—we can control how each plant is maintained. As the garden grows and we begin to practice more sustainable gardening strategies, we will harvest our own seeds and plant our own starts for each season. With time and the constant introduction of organic matter, CGCG will be 100% organic.
Organic vegetable are surely very important for many reasons. If you value your good health and that of your family, you will surely want to give them the best food that you can. Add to that the very real money savings (for every $1 spent yield $8 in return) and the satisfaction of having your very own beautiful organic garden, and you can see why more and more people get active and get growing.
For more information Contact:
COMMON GROUND COMMUNITY GARDEN 322 S. 8TH ST. HANNIBAL, MO 63401
( 8TH & WARREN BARRETT DR. ACROSS FROM RECYCLING DROPOFF & STREET DEPT)
HANNIBAL PARKS & RECREATION
PHONE: (573)221-0154 OR CONTACT JESSIE DRYDEN AT (720)560-1122
E-MAIL: [email protected]
HTTP S : //WWW .FAC EBOOK . COM/COMMONGROUNDCOMMUN ITYGARDEN ?R EF=HL
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The primary objective of CGCG regarding program expenditures is to function independently from grant money. The logic for this is three-fold: 1.) to limit expenses by recycling materials, 2.) to encourage community members to participate by in-kind donation, 3.) to illustrate creativity through sustainability—working with the materials that were donated. For the most part, the 2013 year relied on grant money to procure materials that were one-time purchases. These materials include, but are not limited to the shed, waterline, gravel, garden tools, soil, and manure. The bulk of the raised bed construction costs were offset by donations of heat-treated pallets, which made for a tremendous savings in expenditures. Moving forward in for the 2014 growing season, the reliance on said funds will be minimized and used to “fill in the gaps.” By building rain catching systems, CGCG can reduce the amount spent on water. By generating our own compost, CGCG reduces the reliance on store-bought manure. The next few tables offer a summarized and itemized breakdown in expenses for the 2013 season.
Summarized Expenses
Shed, Paint supplies $1,769.87 $0 $1,769.87
Lumber, Screws, Nails, Landscaping Mesh, Staples, Staple guns, used HT Pallets
(48), etc. $4,427.11 $3,999.51 $427.60
Seeds, Plants, Soil, Manure, Tools, Gloves $2,194.22 $147.50 $2,046.72
Waterline Materials $297.50 $0 $297.50
Gravel, Bricks $1,118.83 $350.00 $768.83
Picnic Table, Benches $742.00 $742.00 $0
Water, Sewer, Electric (June - September) $261.40 $0 $261.40
TOTAL $10,810.93 $5,239.01 $5,571.92
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It was the objective of the initial year to use the grant money moderately, relying
primarily on recycled materials and in-kind donations. After some analysis, the in-
kind donations totally $5239.01 which is a conservative estimate and does not
reflect the significant contributions made by community members and only
calculates a fraction of their monetary value. In response to the goal of CGCG to be
sustainable, if this pattern of donations continues then the need for money and
grant funds will be minimal. It is estimated that the actual cost of plants for the
2014 growing season will be, at minimum $500 and the maximum at $1000. For a
garden of this size, this is tremendous. Furthermore, the purchases from the 2013
season that were not used during the seasonal harvest will be used for the 2014
year. Also, growing from seed instead of purchasing plants will continue to save
money for the garden.
Below is a more detailed expense report that has been used to generate a
projected budget for the 2014 season.
Itemized Expenses
5/1/2013 Central Stone
Company Gravel for Community Garden Site $ 600.27
5/1/2013 Central Stone Company
Gravel for Community Garden Site $ 68.56
5/13/2013 Farm & Home Plumbing supplies for water line and rakes $ 33.24
5/13/2013 Central Stone
Company Gravel for Community Garden Site $ 100.00
5/13/2013 Lowe's Bottled water and gloves $ 91.74
5/16/2013 Hannibal Homestore Wood $ 10.40
5/17/2013 Farm & Home Manure and seeds $ 115.34
5/17/2013 Farm & Home Top Soil $ 77.35
5/17/2013 Farm & Home Bottled Water for planting event $ 10.47
5/22/2013 Jessie Dryden Reimbursement for various supplies she
purchased $ 143.89
6/1/2013 Riback Supply Company
Plumbing supplies to run water line for garden site
$ 186.31
6/4/2013 Farm & Home Plants, pots, gloves, stakes, landscape fabric,
and tomato cages $ 171.54
6/4/2013 Farm & Home Lumber, Plant supports, plant food, and
plants $ 129.15
6/7/2013 Lowe's Plant Food $ 32.94
6/11/2013 Wal-Mart Plants, pruners, painters pen, and spray
bottles $ 102.36
12
6/13/2013 BPW Water Usage $ 12.84
6/13/2013 BPW Sewer $ 8.04
6/13/2013 Lowe's Staple gun, staples, and landscape fabric $ 109.24
6/13/2013 Lowe's Landscape Fabric $ 39.92
6/13/2013 Lowe's Manure $ 35.64
6/13/2013 Lowe's Trowel, shovel, cultivator, manure, and top soil
$ 174.60
6/13/2013 Sutherlands Plants $ 234.46
6/13/2013 Lowe's Manure and top soil $ 193.05
6/14/2013 Schrock's Woodshop Shed $ 1,634.00
6/19/2013 Wal-Mart Cork board and chalkboard paint $ 31.91
6/21/2013 Farm & Home Hinges, plant food, padlock, suet, rakes,
shovel, hoes, and wheelbarrow $ 166.00
7/8/2013 Farm & Home Hoses and nozzle set $ 77.95
7/11/2013 Hannibal Homestore Paint $ 103.96
7/12/2013 Farm & Home Bone Meal $ 17.92
7/16/2013 BPW Water Usage $ 25.78
7/16/2013 BPW Sewer $ 23.68
7/25/2013 Wal-Mart Various community garden supplies $ 112.92
8/1/2013 Wal-Mart Various community garden supplies $ 124.51
8/3/2013 Wal-Mart Water for Recreation Event $ 9.96
8/9/2013 Lowe's Various community garden supplies $ 252.34
8/19/2013 BPW Water Usage $ 32.60
8/19/2013 BPW Electricity Usage $ 25.66
8/19/2013 BPW Sewer $ 32.14
9/13/2013 BPW Water Usage $ 36.97
9/13/2013 BPW Electricity Usage $ 26.14
9/13/2013 BPW Sewer $ 37.55
9/26/2013 Farm & Home Various community garden supplies $ 106.60
10/11/2013 Hannibal Homestore Black Plastic $ 11.98
Total $ 5,571.92
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References
1.) From Neglected Parcels to Community Gardens: A Handbook. Brian Emerson with Ginger Ogilvie,
Celia Bell, Don Anderson, Agnes Chiao and Rob Ferris. Wasatch Community Gardens;
wasatchgardens.org/gardenresources.html
2.) Starting a Community Garden, American Community Garden Association,
http://www.communitygarden.org/pubs/starting.html
3.) Community Garden Start-up Guide, University of California Cooperative Extension in Los Angeles,
http://celosangeles.ucdavis.edu/garden/articles/startup_guide.html
4.) U.S. Department of Agriculture (2011). Food Security in the United States: Key Statistics and
Graphics. USDA, Economic Research Service. Retrieved from
http://www.ers.usda.gov/Briefing/FoodSecurity/stats_graphs.htm.
5.) Hill, H. (2008). Food miles: Background and marketing. NCAT publication, Retrieved from
http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/PDF/foodmiles.pdf
6.) Community Garden Connections. Education Manual. Antioch University, Retrieved from
http://www.antiochne.edu/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/CGC-Education-Manual-Final.pdf
7.) Evaluation of Community Gardens. (1998). Jill Florence Lackey & Associates. University of
Wisconsin Cooperative Extensions. Retrieved from
http://www.uwex.edu/ces/pdande/evaluation/pdf/comgardens.PDF.
8.) Nation of Farmers. Astyk & Newton, 2013. Retrieved from: http://www.utne.com/environment/a-
nation-of-farmers-ze0z1304zcalt.aspx?PageId=4#ArticleContent
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Common Ground Community Garden is a volunteer led project and rests upon the
helping hands of community members. The 2013 season, the first season of the garden,
had noticeable steady growth among participation. An estimated 57 people
volunteered throughout the season, with around 10 core members dedicated to
maintaining the space.
15
One of the many beautiful components of the community is the eclectic mix of
individuals that create a healthy and balanced group of volunteers. Throughout the
2013 growing season CGCG had a myriad of people participate bringing with them a
wide variety of knowledge and skills contributed significantly to the success of the first
year. From skilled carpenters to master gardeners, retirees and children, individuals
and families alike—the diverse group only strengthened the pilot program. The garden
acted as a place where avid gardeners could teach those with little to no gardening
experience, a place to socialize with a variety of community members, while giving
people the space to transmit skills and values of a valuable cultural heritage and
agrarian way of life to a younger generation.
Initially, the open invitation for volunteers was structured and the volunteers were
required to commit to at least 4 hours a month in exchange for produce from the
garden. This seemed to deter some prospective volunteers who could not commit.
Therefore, the volunteer requirement was altered to accommodate those members.
Instead of dedicating 4 hours, CGCG offered produce to anyone willing to volunteer
time at the garden—but each volunteer had to work for produce.
Each volunteer must complete a registration form
All volunteers are required to attend orientation & training.
Volunteers must notify the garden manager when they plan on
volunteering either by signing up for weekly tasks in advance or by
contacting manager at least 1 day prior to volunteering
Volunteers need to check the communication board prior to
performing any garden tasks.
Sign-in and Sign-out each time they volunteer
Participate in monthly potluck meetings*
Provide feedback to Garden Manager
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All volunteers must complete a one-hour training session before working in the garden. Training sessions will
be held on an as needed basis, at least once per month during the growing season.
In order to share in the harvest from our garden, you must sign a Commitment Form, and commit to working a
minimum of four (4) hours in the garden over a four week period. You are responsible for documenting the
time you have worked on the sign-in sheet located at the garden. After the first two hours of work, you
can pick up in-season produce on a designated harvest day. For more information on becoming a Volunteer
Coordinator or Community Advisory Board Member, contact Jessie Dryden ([email protected] or
720-560-1122).
Garden Work: Monday thru Saturday: 8-11 am and 5-8 pm
Harvesting: Mon, Wed, Fri evenings 5-8pm (seasonal, May-October)
Harvest distribution*: Saturdays 9-11am (seasonal, May-October)
*The Common Ground Community Garden harvest will be distributed equally among members who
have worked a minimum of 4 hours in the past 4 weeks, or who have worked 2 hours and
committed to 2 more hours of work. Please let us know if you would like to harvest the vegetables
you take. Any excess harvest will be sold to benefit the garden or distributed to a local food pantry.
**Please mark all the times you are normally available to help in the garden. **
This is your availability only- you do not have to commit to working at all these times.
Name: _________________________________________________
Morning (8am -11am) Afternoon (1-4pm) Evening (4-7pm)
Monday
Tuesday
Wednesday
Friday
Saturday
Sunday
Preferred Commitment (Example: 3 hours per week, 3 weeks for month, 6 months per year)
Hours per week: ______________________
Hours per month: ______________________
Months per year: ______________________
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I, __________________________________________________________, commit to working in our Common Ground
Community Garden for at least four hours over the next four weeks. I will adhere to the Garden Rules,
and will take care that my actions in the garden are always for the benefit of the community.
I understand that I am responsible for documenting the time I have worked on the sign-in sheet
located at the garden.
Garden Training date: (Month/Day/Year) ______/________/___________
First four week period start date: (Month/Day/Year) ______/________/___________
First four week period end date: (Month/Day/Year) ______/________/___________
Additional time committed:
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________________
Additional skills you would like to share:
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Specific interests in gardening, workshops you would like to attend or present; other information you
would like to share about yourself:
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
If you are an experienced gardener, would you be willing to help a new gardener? ____YES ____ NO
If you are a new gardener, would you like help from an experienced gardener? ____ YES ____NO
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Photo Permission: Occasionally gardeners, garden leaders, and media will take pictures of the garden
for publishing purposes. Please check here if you do not give permission to publish your photo.
If you do not give permission, please let photographers know when encountered at the garden.
Phone & Email: Gardeners are required to share the best mode of contact for the Garden Manager. In
addition, this information can be shared with other gardeners with your permission. Please check here
if you do not give permission to share your contact information.
If you are interested in participating in a more advanced role, please check the box or boxes below:
Leadership: Outreach/Recruiter: Workshop Trainer:
Event Organizer: Group Communications: Volunteer Organizer:
Other: (please list) ____________________________________________
By signing below, I agree that I have read and understand the Gardener Guidelines and plan to abide by all of t
he garden rules. I understand that neither the garden group nor owners of the land are responsible for my acti
ons. I therefore agree to hold harmless (see attached form) the garden group and owners of the land for any
liability, damage, loss or claim that occurs in connection with use of the garden by me or my guests.
___________________________________________________________
Signature
___________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________
Street Address
___________________________________________________________
Date (month/day/year)
___________________________________________________________
Email address
___________________________________________________________
Phone number
19
HOLD HARMLESS AGREEMENT
Hannibal Department of Parks & Recreation & Common Ground Community Garden
We, ___________________________________________________, agree to protect, indemnify, save and keep harmless the
City of Hannibal and Hannibal Parks and Recreation against and from any and all loss, cost damage or
expense arising out of or from any accident or other occurrence on or about the Common Ground
Community Garden site causing injury to any person or property, including injury to ourselves, and will
protect, indemnify and save and keep harmless the above mentioned parties from any and all claims, costs
or expense arising out of our use of the site, and comply with and perform all the requirements and
provisions agreed to and required by the Hannibal Parks and Recreation Department during use of the
Common Ground Community Garden site.
We also agree not to allow entrance to the site or use of the site by anyone who has not previously been
authorized entrance or use of the site, and who has not previously agreed to protect, indemnify, save and
keep harmless the City of Hannibal, and whose signatures do not appear on this agreement.
We also agree to pay for any damages to the site and equipment caused by our use or negligence, excluding
normal wear and tear of the site or equipment.
We also agree to notify the Hannibal Parks and Recreation Department of any damages or hazardous
conditions immediately, and to immediately discontinue use of the site until the condition can be corrected.
__________________________________________________ ________________________
Signature Date
20
Adapted from the Community Garden Coalition (cgc.missouri.org) Gardener Guidelines.
The following guidelines have been established by Common Ground
Community Garden. Please read the guidelines and direct any
questions or comments to the garden manager.
All community participants must complete a registration for the garden and participate
in an orientation class.
Monthly meetings and garden parties are held for volunteers. Please plan to attend to
get to know your fellow gardeners.
Closely supervise your children; help them learn respect for gardening. Children using
tools in the garden must be under direct and constant supervision of a parent or
responsible adult.
Common Ground is a public space. Respectfully welcome visitors to the garden.
Volunteers will observe the highest standards of honesty and integrity.
Organic methods only. NO synthetic chemicals including: pesticides, insecticides,
herbicides, weed killers, or chemical fertilizers. Organic manure provided.
Please don’t leave water unattended. When finished, roll up the hose and return all
tools back into the shed and lock it.
Pick up litter when you see it and compost any organic matter in the appropriate
compost bin.
Please pick up after your pets if you bring them to the garden.
Use common courtesy and resolve differences in a neighborly way. For problems with
fellow volunteers, remain polite and listen carefully. Usually a solution is always within
reach.
For your safety, only garden in daylight. Consider even working in pairs and keeping a
cell phone.
Report theft, vandalism, and unusual activities to the garden manager, Parks &
Recreation, and if needed, the police.
Violation of these guidelines will be addressed by the garden manager. If not resolved, you will
be asked to no longer participate. By respecting these rules & guidelines, everyone is welcome,
comfortable and safe in Hannibal’s Common Ground Community Garden. Thank you for your
cooperation and support!
21
Communication for any community garden is tricky and absolutely paramount for a
successful garden. CGCG, through trial and error and feedback from volunteers,
established a few forms to address any barriers in communication and to nurture more
efficient and effective system. It is the responsibility of the garden manager to keep
volunteers up-to-date and to manage tasks and schedules. It is the responsibility of the
volunteers, however, to communicate when they are available to donate their time and
identify which task they will be performing.
Garden Information will be communicated to you in several ways:
Chalkboard: All the tasks for volunteers for each week will be written on the chalk board
on the back of the shed door so that everyone knows who will be working on what task
each week. You can always do more work than what you sign up for, except for watering &
harvesting.
Bulletin Board: Bulletin board is located on the shed and covered by two white shutters.
There are a few forms for you to complete when gardening. All volunteers are required to
sign-in and sign-out and denote the tasks completed. If watering or harvesting, there is a
special communication form to complete that lets all volunteers know what watering and
harvesting has been done. The third form is a weekly task overview that lists the
opportunities for volunteers that week. You can also list any problems (i.e. noticed pests or
something wrong with plants). You can post information, ideas for the garden, etc on the
bulletin board. Contact information will be posted here to for your convenience.
Calls, text messages, & email: Make sure you provide a way to contact you especially for
watering and for harvesting. This way if there are any changes we can notify you as soon as
they happen. *Email is most convenient and weekly emails will be sent out. Hard copies of
these emails will be posted onsite on the bulletin board.
Mailbox: The mailbox is used for any comments, questions, or suggestions that you want
to communicate. You can also drop off evaluations & registration paperwork here. This can
be anonymous if you want to communicate in confidence.
**If you can’t fulfill the task you registered for, especially for watering and harvesting
during the week, contact Garden Manager. Make sure to leave a voicemail or you can
always text message. You can also post a note to the bulletin board. If there are urgent
issues call Garden Manager or Parks & Recreation 573/221-0154.
22
Week of ____________________________
*Watch out for bean beetles & squash bugs. Squash bugs lay eggs on the back of leaves and attack melon,
cucumber, squash, & pumpkin plants.
Weekly To-Do List
1. ____________________________ 6. __________________________
2. ____________________________ 7. __________________________
3. ____________________________ 8. __________________________
4. ____________________________ 9. __________________________
5. ____________________________ 10. _________________________
Volunteer Comments
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
23
GARDEN TASK CHECKLIST
Week of:____________________________
Sunday
Task Completed Completed By
Water? YES NO
ex. Watering
Jessie
____________
_______________
____________
_______________
Monday
Task Completed Completed By
Water? YES NO
____________
_______________
____________
_______________
____________
_______________
Tuesday
Task Completed Completed By
Water? YES NO
____________
_______________
____________
_______________
____________
_______________
Wednesday
Task Completed Completed By
Water? YES NO
____________
_______________
____________
_______________
____________
_______________
Thursday
Task Completed Completed By
Water? YES NO
____________
_______________
____________
_______________
____________
_______________
Friday
Task Completed Completed By
Water? YES NO
____________
_______________
____________
_______________
____________
_______________
Saturday
Task Completed Completed By
Water? YES NO
____________
_______________
____________
_______________
____________
_______________
24
Common Ground Community Garden
Volunteer Checklist
Did you….
o Check chalk board & bulletin board for new communication?
o Sign In & track your time?
o Complete Task?
o Put all tools use in the shed & Clean up?
o Sign out?
o Have fun?
It’s not recreation; it’s RE-Creation! So let’s go play outside!!
25
26
There are many problems that may arise when working with a wide array of
personalities. When conflict occurs especially in a project that relies on people
working together, it is of dire importance that resolution is reached so that the conflict
does not continue to affect volunteers. CGCG has outlined steps for conflict
resolution—finding Common Ground, so to speak. There were instances in the first
year in which these tactics were implemented and worked and occasions in which
resolution could not be met. Sometimes that happens regardless of how the situation is
handled. As long as the volunteers are informed and are aware of their roles and the
garden manager is equipped to handle conflict, then all that can be done is embrace
and resolve conflict as it arises. Below is a list of best practices—the focus here is on
preventative measures.
Ways to Prevent Conflict
1.) Effective Communication-If you don’t understand something or something doesn’t make
sense, don’t be afraid to ask why. Also, if you notice that a garden method isn’t working, speak up
but also provide ideas for resolutions.
2.) Listening-Communication doesn’t work unless we listen to each other.
3.) Cooperation-goal of garden is always to figure out a way for diverse people in the community
to maintain and sustain a garden together. If nature can work together so can we.
When Conflict Arises
Conflict can be beautiful because it can help people create new ideas together. View conflict as
an opportunity and not a setback.
Step 1: Attempt to directly work out issues with the other party. All involved should listen
carefully and with respect.
Step 2: if you can’t resolve it together, ask garden manager for help.
The ability to successfully resolve conflict depends on your ability to:
Manage stress quickly while remaining alert and calm. By staying calm, you can accurately read
and interpret verbal and nonverbal communication.
Control your emotions and behavior. When you’re in control of your emotions, you can
communicate your needs without threatening, frightening, or punishing others.
27
Pay attention to the feelings being expressed as well as the spoken words of others.
Be aware of and respectful of differences. By avoiding disrespectful words and actions, you can
almost always resolve a problem faster.
Tips for managing and resolving conflict
Managing and resolving conflict requires the ability to quickly reduce stress and bring your emotions into balance. You can ensure that the process is as positive as possible by sticking to the following guidelines:
Listen for what is felt as well as said. When we listen we connect more deeply to our own needs
and emotions, and to those of other people. Listening also strengthens us, informs us, and
makes it easier for others to hear us when it's our turn to speak.
Make conflict resolution the priority rather than winning or "being right." Maintaining and
strengthening the relationship, rather than “winning” the argument, should always be your first
priority. Be respectful of the other person and his or her viewpoint.
Focus on the present. If you’re holding on to grudges based on past resentments, your ability to
see the reality of the current situation will be impaired. Rather than looking to the past and
assigning blame, focus on what you can do in the here-and-now to solve the problem.
Pick your battles. Conflicts can be draining, so it’s important to consider whether the issue is
really worthy of your time and energy. Maybe you don't want to surrender a parking space if
you’ve been circling for 15 minutes, but if there are dozens of empty spots, arguing over a
single space isn’t worth it.
Be willing to forgive. Resolving conflict is impossible if you’re unwilling or unable to forgive.
Resolution lies in releasing the urge to punish, which can never compensate for our losses and
only adds to our injury by further depleting and draining our lives.
Know when to let something go. If you can’t come to an agreement, agree to disagree. It takes
two people to keep an argument going. If a conflict is going nowhere, you can choose to
disengage and move on.
28
The 2013 year was full of trials and errors given the unfamiliar environment and
considering a multitude of variables. CGCG was able to generate an operative list of
best practices for the garden in hopes of better equipping volunteers to perform day-
to-day tasks. An overview of the implemented methods is provided below.
GARDEN TASKS OVERVIEW
Watering
Watering Duties:
o General Rule of Thumb: Water each plant until there is standing water, most plants need
about an inch of water each week. Each 4x4 raised bed requires approximately 4 gallons of
water per day during summer. 4x8 beds require 8 gallons per day.
o planters, herb beds, & marigolds around top of raised beds are watered daily as needed
o water trees 1x per week for the first 3 summers when there is no rain
o flower beds by tree & retaining wall 2-3 times per week as needed
o Refill water bottles for each bed
o WATER RAISED BEDS EVERYDAY AS NEEDED
Water well 1-2 times per week depending on weather, wait 3-5 days after it rains
at least ½.”
If the soil feels dry an inch or so below the surface, it’s time to water your raised
beds. Depending on how dry it is, test moisture in bed with your finger to make
certain bed doesn’t need watering.
Harvesting
Harvesting Duties:
o 3 days a week—Monday, Wednesday, Friday for about 5 people to sign up for each week.
o Distribution will be on Saturday mornings. Wednesday evenings will be added as well for
the time in the season when plants are producing higher yields
Harvesting is a privilege and we want to make sure everyone has the opportunity
to harvest. There will be produce that will need to be eaten the day that is
harvested. Volunteers who harvest will have the choice of eating it or tossing it in
the “green” compost bin.
Weeding
Weeding Duties: *Save weeds and put them in the “green” compost bin*
o Each raised bed needs weeding
29
o Weed and mulch flower bed by retaining wall
o Weed cobblestone and throughout gravel
Pruning
Pruning Duties:
o Pick off dead leaves on plants and flowers; put in bucket and transfer to “green” compost
bin.
o Cultivating beds
Take hand tool and break up the tough crust of the soil so plants can breathe. Once
a month, use Plant Tone (plant food) and work it into the soil.
Landscaping
Landscaping Duties:
o Weeding the perimeter of the property
o Trimming the area
o Mowing the lawn
o Finish laying landscaping brick
o Reseeding grass in areas that need it
o Pick up trash on the property and take to dump at the armory
Special Projects
Special Project Duties:
o Construction
Building more raised beds
Painting them white
Help build solar dehydrator
o Pest & Diseased Plant Control
Make & use natural insecticides/pesticides/herbicides on plants
o Produce Preservation
Manage the dehydrator once it is constructed,
Canning classes—monitor what is canned or teach
o Teaching Classes
Volunteer to teach gardening, composting, canning, seed harvesting etc.
o Seed harvesting
Store seeds to reuse for next year’s growing season.
o Help create resource guide for the garden
o Volunteer to be a trainer or to take a lead role in the garden
If you need a task, just ask! There’s always something to do in the garden.
30
Garden Task Timeline
*adapted from Community Garden Connections, Antioch University Extension
March April & May May-October
31
The foundation of Common Ground Community Garden is positioned around a series
of educational opportunities for the community members. This is focal point for
strategy for not only reaching out to volunteers but to keep them volunteering. It also
has a more subliminal agenda—to increase the knowledge of gardening in the
Hannibal community, to encourage healthier food choices, to nurture social
connections, and to education organic & sustainable alternatives. The 2013 set out to
complete three workshops: organic gardening, composting, & canning; however,
CGCG only fulfilled two of them: organic gardening & composting (sample curriculum in
appendix).
Other educational objectives included training volunteers in each gardening task; give
them educational handouts to reference; and to provide information cards for each
raised bed. All of these were completed but not all were implemented during the
season. For the 2014 season, orientation and volunteer training will be pursued more
extensively, information about the garden will be laminated and posted in key
locations, and the information cards describing the type of plant and plant
maintenance will be laminated and hanging from each raised bed to prevent any
maintenance mishaps due to lack of information.
Part of the education objective is to provide a space for people to
practice gardening and composting. Composting, in particular, can
seem overly complicated to a novice but the ecological benefits
outweigh the amount of effort it might take to change our behavior.
It was the goal of CGCG to provide a space for people to learn to
compost. We have three compost bins for the components of
composting that are labeled, color coordinated, and have training
information on them: Green for Green Matter; Brown for Brown
Matter; Yellow for Manure (which is also a Green Matter). They are
color coordinated and separate bins so beginners can spatial
recognize the distinct components of compost. Next to these bins are
the actual compost areas that use 3 different compost methods so we
can determine the best method for our environment here in
northeast Missouri.
32
Compost & Plant Information Cards
(adapted from several composting information guides & referenced in the references)
Green Composting
Materials
vegetable peelings
fruit peelings
grass clippings
coffee grounds
fresh manure
green plant cuttings
annual weeds
young hedge
trimmings
GREEN MATTER
Greens, the nitrogen source,
are colorful and wet. They
provide nutrients and
moisture for the compost
workforce.
Browns, the carbon source, provide energy,
and are also used for absorbing excess
moisture and giving structural strength to
your pile. They help keep the pile porous,
facilitate air-flow and prevent compaction.
BROWN MATTER
Brown Composting
Materials
leaves
hay & straw
paper &
cardboard
woody prunings
eggshells
tea bags
sawdust
The Green Matter information
card is attached to the green
compost bin. It identifies the
types of materials that can be
discarded in the bin and
provides a brief overview of
materials.
The Brown Matter card is
posted on the brown
compost bin. Members of
the community can dump
“browns” in this bin to
use in the compost pile.
The card provides a brief
explanation and lists
brown composting
materials.
33
Don't Add
meat & bones
poultry & fish
fatty food waste
whole eggs
dairy products
human & pet feces
pernicious weeds (plants that are destructive to other
plants)
treated wood
DO NOT COMPOST!
What Animal Manure to Add:
Cow
Chicken
Horse
Rabbit
Sheep
DO NOT ADD CAT and DOG
MANURE!!
Manure Materials
Manure is considered a
component of green matter
and is an important part of
creating nutrient-rich soil.
Too much can cause the
plants to overheat, so it is
important to keep it separate
and add it into compost as
needed.
There are materials that
cannot be composted the way
brown & green matter can.
They require a more complex
system and should be done by
someone with advanced
composting skills. CGCG
chooses to keep it simple, to
provide a solid foundation for
composting, and give step by
step instructions to assist
volunteers to continue to
grow in their knowledge to
eventually become more
advanced in their abilities.
34
Composting is a natural process. Organic materials such as leaves, grass, and
vegetable scraps are broken down by microorganisms, forming a rich soil-like
substance called compost or humus.
Organic materials: A good mix consists of three parts "browns" (materials such as
dead leaves that are high in carbon) and one part "greens" (such as fresh grass
clippings and garden prunings that are high in nitrogen).
Moisture: Composting materials should feel moist but not overly soggy.
Temperature: Compost should feel warm to the touch except in the cold winter
months.
Air: To prevent unpleasant odors, turn compost regularly to ensure that air is
reaching the center of the pile.
Making Great Compost
Compost Problems
There are several different
processes for making great
compost. This information
card lists some basic
information for volunteers to
reference.
When learning how to
compost, it is important to be
prepared for problems that
might arise in your first few
attempts. This list provides
information on symptoms and
solutions for typical
composting issues.
35
Plant Information Cards (Samples)
36
It is essential for community members and the neighbors around the garden site to
remain invested in the project. Therefore, outreach is a critical part of creating a
sustainable community garden. Common Ground Community Garden began by
reaching out to local government agencies and was fortunate enough to connect with
the Hannibal Department of Parks & Recreation. This relationship was mutually
beneficial—Parks & Recreation had financial and material resources while CGCG
provided the human and intellectual capital (through Common Sense for an
Uncommon Bond) to jumpstart the project.
With the initial logistics established, CGCG then created a Community Advisory
Committee for the project composed of community leaders representing individuals &
families, nonprofits, & business. After discussion of strategy, CGCG moved forward
with community outreach separated into three sections: individuals & families, social
clubs, schools, & nonprofit organizations, and government agencies & local businesses.
Individuals & Families: CGCG is intended for all people in Hannibal and we are committed
to creating an environment that is welcoming and encourages all people to participate. In
order to reach out to individuals & families, the garden itself is set up for people of all
ages—from children to elderly, from capable to handi-capable. Throughout the season,
we had retired couples and individuals, entire families, and individuals that needed to
fulfill community service. There were several people from the neighborhood that
participated—and several that donated materials citing that they enjoyed seeing the lot
transformed into something beautiful.
There were several ways CGCG used to reach out into the community: door-to-door
canvassing, flyers, newspaper articles & television interviews, radio, workshop offerings, &
Parks & Recreation newsletters. These seemed to be effective measures that will be
expanded on in the 2014 season.
Social clubs, Schools, & Nonprofit Organizations: Throughout the season, CGCG spoke
with several organizations: Families & Communities Together, Rotary Club, Lions Club,
Hannibal Women’s Club, Hannibal Gardening Club, and The Desperate Gardeners Club.
Also CGCG inspired Eugene Field Elementary to grow their own garden using recycled
materials. CGCG also acted as an outdoor classroom for homeschooled students.
Local Businesses: CGCG, through media outreach and general word-of-mouth received
material donations from BASF, Hannibal Homestore, & Miller Distributing.
37
38
Rising social awareness in urban cities related to the decline in public open space has caused many scholars and community groups to reevaluate the urban planning of concrete jungles. Cities that were once savannahs have now been paved over by rock and asphalt, stripping the urban environment of its natural ecology—replacing vibrant greenspace with a dull and neutralizing gray. Population density in cities is a contributing factor to this movement, as the need to replace single-family homes with multiple family high-rises outweighs to accommodate urban growth outweighs the need for public greenspace (Byrne & Sipe, 2010).
Although rural communities, like Hannibal, Missouri, have seen a steady decline in population over the last ten years, the need to create green public open spaces remains the same. Surrounded by farmland, the urban expansion of Hannibal to the west and north of town threatens the open space, as this land is replaced by new homes and corporate businesses. This expansion is also creates movement away from the Mississippi River and the historical downtown district. But these changes in landscape only challenge the Department of Parks & Recreation to be more creative with the approaches to preserve greenspace within city limits.
Greenspaces are not only important for the natural environment of cities, but they play a critical role in making cities more sustainable (Byrne & Sipe, 2010). According to Byrne & Sipe in their study Green and Open Space Planning for Urban Consolidation (2010), the benefits of urban planning “include nature’s services/ecological benefits (e.g. preserving biodiversity), social benefits (e.g. socialisation and healthy living) and economic benefits (e.g. tourism). It is the objective of Common Ground Community Garden to illustrate how these benefits are translated in a rural environment. Whereas the previous section discussed the social benefits of urban greening, this section focuses primarily on the ecological and economical advantages of the community garden project. Located on 322 S. 8th Street, Common Ground Community Garden is deeply rooted in Hannibal’s industrial district and uniquely planted in a lower-income area. The lot has been transformed many times over the years and has been many different businesses—not all environmentally friendly. Therefore, CGCG is composed of a series of raised beds with the intention of restoring ecological balance to the lot and bringing in as much nutrient-rich organic matter to purify toxins from the remaining soil for planting in-ground. This might seem lofty to some, but to CGCG it just requires a little effort & a lot of creativity.
39
Reclaim
Common Ground Community Garden started out as an idea—to provide a space
where the community can learn to grow their own food, increase access to healthy
food, to connect and socialize, and to provide a beautiful space to learn and build
skills, creating opportunities for empowerment and self-sufficiency through
gardening. This idea was put into practice when CGCG was given a space, known as
lot #25 of the flood buy-out—a piece of property that was considered flood plain
without ever experiencing flood water.
The lot itself had been home to various businesses, some in which coal was dumped
making it almost impossible to plant in the ground but has since lay vacant and
neglected—a blemish that many people drove by daily and to some, was the
eyesore in their backyards. Part of the space had been graveled over and because
of the close proximity to the recycling area and as a result of being a windy
location, covered in trash. But what others would have deemed a hopeless & waste
of space, CGCG saw a blank canvass—an opportunity to recreate.
40
Recreate
Community gardens are not only considered a way of increasing biodiversity in a
community, but gardens are also a way of beautifying and enhancing urban areas,
of self-expression and reflection, and encourage the idea that gardening can be
fun. That is why the motto of CGCG is “It’s not recreation; it’s RE-creation. So let’s
go play outside.”
The first step in the process of recreating the site is to design a layout for the
garden, to identify parameters, and to begin creating functional uses to maximize
the space provided. This base map provided a foundation for development.
For the first year, CGCG determined that the best method would be to start small,
giving room for growth over the next few years with the hopes that the concept
would not only take root in the community but flourish. The lot size is important for
designing a layout—120 ft x 145 ft—which gives the garden a lot of room for
growth & further development.
The next step is to determine the materials used for the raised beds. CGCG is
economically conscious and desired to use as many recycled materials as possible to
eliminate the expenses for lumber, which can be quite expensive. The garden was
41
fortunate to have the services of an expert carpenter volunteered and after some
consideration, a plan for transforming heat-treated pallets (or skids) was created.
Over the course of a month, around 30 raised beds were developed using recycled
pallets. With a little creativity and some paint, the garden began to take shape.
42
Revive
Most cities want to invest in repairing degraded parts of the cities to revitalize
commerce and increase tourism. Revitalize has become the operative politically
correct term for giving life to the economic environment. CGCG chooses to breathe
new life into the community through reviving our sense of collective social identity
through the re-creation of community gardens.
Part of the “revival” is to take unnatural gray space and add a little natural color.
Not only is this visibly striking but it inspires the community to consider what empty
space could be—it gives perspective and stimulates creativity. Not only is CGCG
resourceful with recycled materials, but even the planting of the garden has an
artistic touch.
Common Ground
Community Garden uses
plants as their palette and
encourages creativity
with nature, reclaiming
empty lots, recreating the
space, and reviving the
landscape through
cooperating with nature.
43
Part of the fun in building a community garden is in taking junk materials and
transforming them into planters. This is not only economic but it reduces the amount of
garbage thrown into landfills as well as illustrating what anyone can do with just a little
ingenuity.
Common Ground Community Garden used a combination of natural and unnatural
materials to recycle and renovate. From tree trunks to claw foot tubs, some were
donated and some even scavenged from the recycling drop-off across the street—but
all, nonetheless, were re-created into function works of art. This section is dedicated to
demonstrating the limitless possibilities of creative recycling.
This turn of the century claw foot tub was
rescued from a burnt down house prior to
demolition. It was converted into a flower
planter and it located in the center of the
garden. It was painted with a geometric
design but the smoke stain from the fire
remains intact to give it some personality.
Shoes were used throughout the
summer with Kids in Motion, a local
nonprofit that works with at-risk
youth. They came to the garden for
volunteer work and got their hands
dirty with a little creative planting.
While some took their shoe planters
home, others decided to decorate the garden with them.
44
This was once a shelf in a 100-year-
old brooding house. It was donated
and transformed into a raised bed
for tomatoes & herbs. It is also
located on the brick pathway
making it handicap accessible.
The table and chairs were abandoned on the property. The wood
was weathered and damaged. Instead of using it for seating, we
flipped the table upside down, added sides, and created a
planter. Each chair was converted into a planter as well—kept the
cushions to retain moisture to prevent them from drying out.
After a big storm went through town
thousands of trees were uprooted. To
reuse the materials we converted this tree
stump into a flower & herb planter and
gave it a face just for fun.
Again, we reuse tree branches & trees destroyed by a
storm to create natural fencing for the garden. No
permanent structures are allowed onsite, so using natural
materials allows CGCG to have fencing & still adhere to
government guidelines.
WATTLE FENCE
45
There is a technique to building raised beds using heat-treated pallets. The process
is simple as long as you practice patience and safety. Some general tips: keep them
3-4 feet in width and no more than 10ft in length. Make height at least 2.5-3ft for
accessibility.
Step One:
Start with a pallet and saw it in half. Make sure you see an HT marked on the pallet so you know it
is heat-treated. As you can see there is a 2x4 runner in the middle. You want to cut so that one
side of the pallet is still connected to the runner.
Step Two:
The half of the pallet that is not
attached to the 2x4 runner needs to
have a 2x4 cut to attach to it. Make
sure to measure as accurately as
possible so that the cut is aligned
and that the sides are flush. Take
another pallet & repeat these steps.
Step Three:
Take the four cut pallet pieces and
step them up in a square. Cut four
2x4 pieces to fit into the edges of
the pallets to reinforce the raised
bed. Once this is done, connect the
four sides and line with
landscaping fabric.
46
General Tips 1-2 inches of green matter mixture or “greens” such as vegetable peelings & other kitchen scraps,
grass, manure, or coffee grounds Next add 1 to 2 inches of brown matter mixture or “browns” such as leaves, straw, newspaper,
cardboard, sawdust, tea bags or mulch.
Alternate the green and brown material to the top and let settle. Then add more to fill raised bed to
the top.
Finish with soil & manure mixture for planting. Keep in mind that the pile will continue to compost
during the season & more will need to be added to fill each bed.
This method takes about 6 months to a year and will compost during growing season.
After the raised beds are constructed, they are lined with landscaping mesh and
ready to fill. Since the beds are several feet in height, using filler that is normally
tossed aside or in the trash is a perfect way to save money. Instead of filling each
bed to the brim with soil and manure, each raised bed is converted into a compost
bin—making it a no-till, no-dig sustainable & simple gardening method. CGCG was
able to use all of the leaves raked on the lot prior to construction to fill the beds as
well as mulched trees from a storm donated by local tree service companies. The
recycling drop-off across the street from the garden provided easy access for
compostable materials such as cardboard & newspaper. All-in-all, CGCG was able
to minimize soil & manure expenses by maximizing natural, compostable resources.
47
(adapted from Community Garden Connections, Antioch university)
Dividing raised beds into square foot sections is the easiest way to play raised beds
at CGCG—it helps to determine what goes where, how much space it needs, and
how many can be planted in each bed. This way volunteers can give each plant the
correct amount of space, maximizing the raised bed and the harvest by giving it
necessary room to grow. Because the raised beds at the garden are 2.5 to 3 feet
high, the beds drain moisture a little faster than being rooted directly in the
ground. For planting purposes, plant more towards the center because the edges
dry out faster. You can also train the plants to grow towards the center by watering
them in the middle—that way the roots grow inwards and may prevent the beds
from drying out so quickly.
Most of the beds at CGCG are 4x4 raised beds although there are a few 4x8s. Below
is an example of how a 4x4ft bed should be divided for planting.
The information card that comes with each plant or that is located on the back of
the seed packet indicates the amount of space needed for the plant for optimal
growth. Sometimes you can overlook the directions for row spacing, but when
starting out it is important to follow instructions and then make changes based on
the results of trial and error.
1 foot
1 foot
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Plant Spacing:
12 inches = 1 per sq. foot
6 inches = 4 per sq. foot
4 inches = 9 per sq. foot
3 inches = 16 per sq. foot
3ft by 6ft raised bed (taken from CGC Antioch University)
49
Creative Trellising
Another example of maximizing space is by creative trellising of the garden.
Certain plants require a little vertical help for growing—cucumbers, tomatoes, pole
beans, peas, melons, squash, sweet potatoes, grapes, & berries. There are a couple
of ways CGCG used trellises in the garden, transforming someone else’s garbage
into an imaginative trellis for planting.
The basic structure used
throughout the garden
for trellising is a teepee.
An old ladder was
donated, cut in half, and
used for cucumbers to
climb. We added some
twine to help encourage
vertical growth. For
tomatoes, we used
branches to create a
teepee for trellising.
Using some lumber
and donated wire
fencing, horizontal
trellises were
designed for pole
beans & cucumbers
to climb.
Use Your
Imagination!
A folding awning
was destroyed after
a storm and the legs
were donated to the
garden. We created
4 trellises for plants.
Even
sunflowers
were
interplanted
for vertical
trellises…
50
(adapted from Organicgardening.com & http://counties.cce.cornell.edu/chemung/agriculture/publications/companion-
planting.pdf)
Companion planting is an excellent way of creating a garden that not only looks
interesting and beautiful but that is sustainable—using nature to work with nature
to grow a healthy, diverse garden. Plants can work together to be mutual
beneficial—feeding each other nutrients as well as warding often pests. Below are
some examples of the benefits of companion planting.
Companions help each other grow—Tall plants, for example, provide shade for sun-
sensitive shorter plants.
Companions use garden space efficiently—Vining plants cover the ground, upright
plants grow up. Two plants in one patch.
Companions prevent pest problems—Plants like onions repel some pests. Other plants
can lure pests away from more desirable plants.
Companions attract beneficial insects—Every successful garden needs plants that
attract the predators of pests.
Sample Chart
Compatible Combative Compatible Combative Compatible Combative
Asparagus Basil Beets Lettuce Parsley Spinach Tomatoes
Beans Broccoli Cabbage Carrots Cauliflower Celery Corn Cucumbers Eggplant Peas Potatoes Radishes Squash Strawberries Tomatoes
Garlic Onions Peppers Sunflowers
Beets Asparagus Broccoli Cauliflower Lettuce Onions
Mustard Pole Beans
Broccoli Beans Beets Celery Cucumbers Onions Potatoes Sage
Cabbage Cauliflower Lettuce Pole Beans Tomatoes
Brussels Sprouts Dill Lettuce Radishes Sage Spinach Turnips
Tomatoes
Cabbage Beans Celery Cucumbers Dill Kale Lettuce Onions Potatoes Sage Spinach Thyme
Broccoli Cauliflower Strawberries Tomatoes
Carrots Beans Lettuce Onions Peas
Dill Parsley
Cauliflower Beans Beets Celery Cucumbers
Broccoli Cabbage Strawberries Tomatoes
Celery Beans Broccoli Cabbage Cauliflower
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Radishes Rosemary Sage Tomatoes
Sage Thyme
Leeks Spinach Tomatoes
Corn Beans Cucumbers Lettuce Melons Peas Potatoes Squash Sunflowers
Tomatoes
Cucumbers Beans Broccoli Cabbage Cauliflower Corn Lettuce Peas Radishes Sunflowers
Herbs Melons Potatoes
Eggplant Basil Beans Lettuce Peas Potatoes Spinach
Kale Cabbage Dill Potatoes Rosemary Sage
Strawberries Tomatoes
Lettuce Asparagus Beets Brussels Cabbage Carrots Corn Cucumbers Eggplant Onions Peas Potatoes Radishes Spinach Strawberries Sunflowers Tomatoes
Broccoli
Melons Corn Nasturtiums Peas Radishes Sunflowers Tomatoes
Cucumbers Potatoes
Onions Beets Broccoli Cabbage Carrots Lettuce Peppers Potatoes Spinach Tomatoes
Beans Peas Sage
Peas Beans Carrots Corn Cucumbers Eggplant Lettuce Melons Parsnips Potatoes Radishes Spinach Turnips
Garlic Onions
Peppers Basil Coriander Onions Spinach Tomatoes
Beans
Potatoes Beans Broccoli Cabbage Corn Eggplant Garlic Kale Lettuce Onions Peas Radishes
Cucumbers Melons Squash Sunflowers Tomatoes Turnips
Spinach Asparagus Brussels Cabbage Celery Dill Eggplant Lettuce Onions Peas Peppers Radishes Strawberries Tomatoes
Tomatoes Asparagus Basil Beans Borage Carrots Celery Dill Lettuce Melons Onions Parlsey Peppers Radishes Spinach Thyme
Broccoli Brussels Cabbage Cauliflower Corn Kale Potatoes
52
After choosing what to grow in the community garden the next step is determining
when to start growing them. Knowing when to grow your vegetables is critical to a
successful garden. Depending on the geographic region, crops are planted relative
to the particular area influenced by several factors including temperature, weather
pattern, and time of year. Northeast Missouri is considered zone 5(b) for planting.
53
GARDEN PLANTING CHART NE MISSOURI
Crop Days to
Maturity
Spring
Planting Dates
Fall Planting
Dates
Seed/Plants Distance
Between
Rows
Distance
Between
Plants
Depth to
Plant
Asparagus 2nd year Apr 5 - 25 50 roots 3 to 5 ft. 1½ to 2 ft. 6 in.
Bean, bush 50-60 Apr 25 - May 30
July 25-Aug 5 ½ lb. 3 ft. 2 to 4 in. 1-1½ in.
Bean, pole 65-75 May 10 - 20 ½ lb. 3 ft. 6 to 12 in. 1-1½ in. Bean, lima 65-75 May 10 -25 1 lb. 2 to 2½ ft. 3 to 4 in. 1-1½ in. Beet 55-65 Apr 1 - 15 Aug 1 - Sept
25 1 oz. 2 to 2½ ft. 2 in. 1 in.
Broccoli 60-80 Mar 25 - Apr 5 Sept. 25 - 30 100 plants 2½ ft. 14 to 18 in.
-
Cabbage 65-80 Apr 1 - 20 Sept 20 -30 100 plants 2½ ft. 12 in. -
Cantaloupe 80-90 May 10 - 20
1 oz. 4 to 6 ft. 3½ to 4 ft. 1½ in Carrot 70-80 Mar 25 - Apr
10 Sept 20 -30 ½ oz. 2 ft. 2 to 3 in. ½ in.
Cauliflower 55-60 Apr 1 - 20 Sept 20 - 30 100 plants 3 ft. 12 to 18 in.
-
Collard 55-70 Mar 20 - Apr 10
½ oz. 2½ ft. 8 to 16 in. ½ in.
Corn 80-100 May 1 - July 20
¼ lb. 3 to 3½ ft. 12 to 18 in.
2 in.
Cucumber 60-65 May 10 - 30 1 oz. 3½ to 5 ft. 3 to 4 ft. 1½ in. Eggplant 75-90 May 15 - 25 50 plants 3 ft. 2½ to 3 ft. - Kale 50-70 Mar 25 - Apr 5 ½ oz. 3 ft. 10 in. ½ in.
Kohlrabi 50-70 Apr 1 - 15 Sept 20 - 25 ½ oz. 3 ft. 10 in. ½ in. Lettuce 60-85 Apr 1 - May 15 Sept 1 - 15 ½ oz. 2 to 2½ ft. 10 to 12
in. ½ in.
Mustard 40-50 Mar 25 - May 1
Aug 1 - 30 ½ oz. 2 ft. 1 in. ½ in.
Okra 55-60 May 10 - 25 1 oz. 3 to 3½ ft. 6 in. 1 in. Onion (mature)
100-120 Mar 25 - Apr 15
Sept. 1-Dec. 31
300 plants or ½ gal. sets
1 to 2 ft. 3 to 4 in. ¾ in.
Peas, garden
60-80 Mar 25 - Apr 10
1 lb. 2½ ft. 1 in. 1½-2 in.
Peas, southern
60-70 May 1 - 15 - ½ lb. 3 ft. 4 to 6 in. 1½-2 in.
Pepper 65-80 May 15 - 30 - 50 plants 2½ ft. 1½ to 2 ft. - Potato, Irish 70-90 Apr 1 - 15 1 peck 2½ to 3 ft. 10 to 14
in. 5 in.
54
Potato, sweet
90-150 May 15-June 5
- 100 plants 3½ ft. 12 in. -
Radish 25-30 Mar 25 - May 1
Aug 1- 20 1 oz. 1½ ft. 1 in. ½ in.
Spinach 40-45 Apr 1 - 20 Aug 10 - Sept 20
1 oz. 1½ to 2 ft. 1 to 2 in. ¾ in.
Squash, bush
50-55 May 15 - 30 1 oz. 3 to 4 ft. 2 ft. 1½-2 in.
squash, winter
85-90 May 15 - 30 - ½ oz. 5 ft. 3 ft. 1½-2 in.
Tomato 70-85 May 15 - 30 50 plants 3 to 4 ft. 2½ to 3 ft. - Turnip 45-65 Mar 25 - May
1 Aug 5 - Sept
20 ½ oz. 1 to 2 ft. 1 to 2 in. ½ in.
Watermelon 80-90 May 10 - 20 1 oz. 10 ft. 8 to 10 ft. 1½ in.
What to Grow?
When to Grow?
Varieties that are Easy to
Grow?
Vegetables & Fruits that
have the Highest Value?
Amount of Space
Available?
Intended Use of Produce?
Nutritional & Dietary Needs of
Volunteers?
Favorite Fruits & Vegetables of
Volunteers?
Grow from Seed or Buy from Store?
How Fruits or Vegetables Grow
Best?
Can Vegetable be Planted Once or
Multiple Times?
55
Garden Site Considerations
Garden maintenance for CGCG is influenced by the location of the garden site.
Using the site consideration model provided by Antioch University & Community
Garden Connections, an evaluation of the location based on the outcomes of the
first year revealed the environmental obstacles that affect the efficacy of day-to-
day garden maintenance.
Location: 322 S. 8th St. (8th & Warren Barrett Dr.)
Space: The total lot size is 120ft x 145ft. The majority of raised beds are 4ft x 4ft
with the exception of five 4ft x 8ft beds. There are at least 30 raised beds currently
onsite and there is more than enough space to double the number of beds.
Light: The garden receives full sun from sunrise to sunset. The only shade is
provided by a tree located in the back northeast corner of the lot.
Slope/Exposure: The ground is relatively level. Holes in the ground were filled in
and part of the lot was graveled. The gravel could be more level but it is sufficient
and will smooth out over time.
Drainage: Adding gravel to the location and having beds raised 2.5 – 3ft off the
ground helps with water drainage. There are a few areas with poor drainage, but
they do not negatively affect the plants in the raised beds.
Accessibility: Lot is an open public space. The creation of a wattle fence provided
necessary parameters—giving the garden some shape. The gravel, although a little
rocky, makes it wheelchair and walker accessible. There is ample parking and it is
within walking distance from downtown. The garden is located in an area and is set
up in a way to maximize potential participation. Width and height of raised beds
makes it accessible to a variety of people with physical needs. The water & tools are
onsite. Water has open access while the shed is secured by lock and key which is
kept by the garden manager and Parks & Recreation to secure tools & materials.
There is seating available: park bench, designated seating area in northwest corner
of the lot, a bench by the water spigot, and a few chairs under the tree. There is an
issue with shade—which is important since the location has ample sun.
Water: Part of the grant money was used to tap into the waterline that was already
onsite. A water spigot was added for access and is located near the center of the
garden. Hoses make it possible to water the far corners of the lot when needed.
56
Soil: The soil is rocky and is embedded with coal. The majority of the lot cannot be
planted with the exception of the northeastern corners by the tree and along the
retaining wall. The soil here has been composting with leaves from the tree, making
it suitable for flowers.
Wildlife: Although the site is near forest, the industrial area keeps the majority of
wildlife at bay. Feral cats have been attracted to the garden because of the birds
(which CGCG welcomes to combat pests). Mice have the potential to burrow and
make a nest in the raised beds. CGCG does not recommend growing corn, as that is
most likely the plant that would attract raccoons. With the close proximity to the
Mississippi River, frogs have been onsite. Most wildlife works to defend the garden
in some way and if there is a problem, CGCG allows nature to restore balance
naturally.
Safety: The location is in an industrial area and is very open. There is always the
potential for vandalism, but this was not experienced in the first year. It is a few
blocks from the police station and has a consistent police presence in the area. It is
not recommended to be onsite in the dark and the hours are posted at the garden.
Sustainability/Availability: The lot is secured for as long as there is interest in a
garden. It is under the management of the Parks & Recreation department and will
be made available to CGCG for as long as it benefits the community. Aesthetic
values of the garden assist in attracting volunteers and other community members
to the space—creating a communal space for events, to interact with diverse
community members. Communication can be improved upon—making sure
information is clearly and plainly explained. The garden could use more signs—
permanent signs and information on rules and how to participate. Using recycled
materials, harvesting seeds, and building rain catchers will assist in the sustainability
of the garden. Composting offers a constant flow of top soil & further engages the
community to participate as well as continuing to offer education opportunities
though workshops.
57
Garden maintenance for raised beds takes some adjusting, if you are used to
gardening in-ground. But for most urban gardens, growing in raised beds has
become an art form in its own right and maintenance, a scientific experiment. At
CGCG the first year was an experiment, considering the different variables in play
and how they affected the outcome in crop growth and harvest. The next section is
dedicated to presenting the best practices and the most sustainable practices for
maintaining a natural ecosystem at Common Ground.
Maintenance Guidelines
Maintaining a garden is different every year—that’s part of the fun in garden—the sheer
unpredictability of Mother Nature. Although you cannot predict the outcome, you can do
your best to prepare. CGCG observed and recorded best practices for the community
garden for watering, weeding & mulching, pruning, harvesting, and winterizing raised
beds with the intention of making sure each volunteer is accurately informed on the
maintenance strategies that are customized for this specific location.
If only Mother Nature rained about an inch to two inches per week, we wouldn’t need to
water. Since we can’t control rain, we try to manage the garden either by catching rain
water or by infusing tap water with compost to decrease the effects of chlorinated water
on plants and adding nutrients to the soil. This method can also help with nutrient
deficiencies and fungus on plants.
Compost Tea
By using compost tea to replace chemical-based fertilizers, pesticides, and fungicides, you
can garden safer and be more protective of the environment. Some recipes call for
aeration and a pump and other supplies, but at Common Ground we use 5 gallon buckets
and bags of compost. Lining the bottoms of the buckets with compost, we fill them up with
water—it stirs itself—and ends up looking like muddy Mississippi water. We let it sit in the
sun and soak overnight and then watered in the morning. We also add bone meal, plant
food, and blood meal to the water at times to expedite the feeding process.
Compost tea:
Increases plant growth
Provides nutrients to plants and soil
Provides beneficial organisms
Helps to suppress diseases
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Replaces toxic garden chemicals
Plant Food Types
Bone Meal: All natural source of organic phosphorus and nitrogen. Blood Meal: Safe source of organic nitrogen. Naturally produces more vigorous plants with richer,
greener leaves. A time proven remedy for sickly plants. Fish Emulsion: A decomposed blend of finely pulverized fish. It is high in nitrogen, so you want to
be careful. The fishy smell goes away after a day or two. Manures: commonly available manures include horse, cow, pig, chicken, and sheep products. Not
all manure is alike, or equally effective.
Watering at CGCG is a delicate process. Watering deep raised beds involves adding as
many nutrients as possible to the plant—the fastest way being through the water. In raised
bed gardening, nutrients are washed out with watering whereas in-ground gardens are
rooted into a balanced and sustainable supply of nutrients, which is why it is so important
for CGCG to use compost tea instead of watering directly from a hose.
During the peak of the summer heat, some planters need to be watered twice daily to stay
hydrated. Once a plant goes into distress—especially in severe cases—it is highly unlikely
to nurture them back to health. CGCG recycled wine bottles and other glass bottles, filled
them with water and turned them upside down in the beds to help with moisture control.
Roots will seek out water. Watering too much encourages shallow roots, whereas watering
as needed promotes deeper root growth as the plant searches for water. For most raised
beds, when the temperature rises, the best practice for watering is 4 gallons for each 4x4
bed and 8 gallons for each 4x8 bed. Some general tips for CGCG:
Water enough so that there is some standing water. It is recommended each plant
get about an inch everyday in peak summer season.
If you have doubts for watering, use your index finger to feel for moisture. If you
feel that the soil is wet at least an inch down, do not water.
If it rains an inch in hot weather, do not water until the next day. If it rains in cooler
weather, skip a day before watering again.
For new seed or plant starts, use a lighter spray or a showerhead watering can so as
to not wash away seeds or damage new growth.
Water slowly so that it has time to be absorbed by the soil.
Water towards the root of the plant—some plants like cucumbers and tomatoes
do not like to get leaves wet. This could cause disease as well.
Water in the early morning or later at night after sun starts to go down on a hot
day to prevent water evaporating.
59
There are many benefits to mulching a garden, including:
Keeps the soil warmer to extend growing season Reduces the growth of weeds
Helps to regulate the soil temperature Retains moisture
Adds nutrients with the addition of organic matter Helps prevent soil hardening
Decelerates soil erosion May prevent certain plant diseases
CGCG used straw, leaves, & wood mulch around plants and flowers primarily to retain
moisture and reduce growth of invasive weeds. The straw was donated by a community
member and the wood mulch was brought by Wilson’s Tree Service. The wood mulch was
composed of branches that had fallen after a storm—since there was an abundance the
tree service was more than happy to drop off a few loads of mulch to the garden. Although
the mulch was untreated, it was perfect for lining pathways and mulching flower beds. For
vegetables, using straw mulch is the best method for mulching around plants—but is not
the only method for mulching a garden.
Ways to Mulch (adapted from CGC Antioch University):
Straw
Apply 4-5 inches thick
Straw lets a lot of light through – not the best at weed suppression
Provides an attractive habitat for small rodents, which can then
become pests
Decomposes over the course of 1-2 years
Grass clippings
Apply 2-3 inches thick
Make sure grass hasn’t been treated
with fertilizers or pesticides
Let it dry first before applying – otherwise it
will create a thick mat
Decomposes quickly
60
Wood Chips
Apply 2-3 inches thick, over a layer of cardboard or
newspaper
Better option for paths than vegetable beds
Tie up a lot of nitrogen from your soil in order to break
down over the course of 1-2 years depending on the size
Chopped Leaves
Apply 2-3 inches thick
Tend to acidify the soil – good for
some acid loving plants
Decomposes quickly
Compost
Apply 3-4 inches thick
Finished compost is free of weed seeds
Adds nutrients and valuable organic matter to soil
Black Plastic
Very effective at moisture retention and weed
suppression
Somewhat tedious to secure and plant through
Doesn’t provide any organic matter to the soil, and
becomes problematic when it tears and becomes
trash in the soil
Cardboard/Newspaper
Apply ½ inch thick under another mulch
or pin down to secure in place
Remove any stickers and tape before using
Decomposes over the course of 1-2 years
61
Hay
Hay contains grass and weed seeds, so beware!
Not advisable to use as mulch.
When the seeds that are planted in a garden begin to germinate and grow, sometimes it is
difficult to identify if what is growing is the plant you planted or the one Mother Nature
did. CGCG wants all volunteers to have the knowledge and confidence to determine what
a weed is and what it is not. From observation in the first year of CGCG, weeds can be
beautiful—that’s part of their allure. But what they do for the plants you want growing can
be detrimental to your garden, taking away nutrients and water from the plants that need
it. Weeds tend to grow quickly and indiscriminately—the most common for northeast
Missouri and for the garden location are:
Creeping Bentgrass Large Crabgrass Kentucky Bluegrass
There are several reasons why weeds grew in the raised beds at the community garden—
hay, straw, & mulch used to fill raised beds and mulch around plants contained weed
seeds, some weeds were found already growing in donated bags of soil, while other weeds
were planted naturally with seeds being carried by the wind. Regardless of how they take
root in the garden, they need to be removed before they get out of control. Some weeds
are shallow and easy to pull up while others are not. With strong root systems (perhaps
62
these weeds should be used for soil erosion?), the best practice for removal is to get your
hands dirty and dig it out at the root.
Difference between Annual & Perennial Weeds
Plants need to breathe, and pruning helps remove excess branches, promotes air
circulation, and keeps plants from becoming too crowded. Pruning also stimulates growth
of some herbs, and helps plants channel energy towards fruit production by getting rid of
“dead weight.” The object of growing fruits and vegetables is to produce fruits and
vegetables. Removing branches and stems that are not flowering and producing fruit,
pinching back flower heads that are done growing, and cutting back herbs that have
begun to flower before they go to seed nurtures healthy plants, a bountiful harvest, and a
longer growing season.
Annuals complete their growing cycle within a year and
spread throughout the garden by seed. Annuals generally
have a shallow root system and are easy to pull, but they
are abundant. One annual weed plant is capable of
producing over 10,000 seeds!
Consider flowering weeds a last warning – it will only be a
matter of days before they go to seed!
Weed whacking or mowing is effective for annual weeds as
long as you are careful to not let them flower and go to
seed. Near the end of the season plants are well adapted to
put all of their energy into flowering, even if they are only
an inch tall!
Be patient and persistent. Not only are certain seeds viable
for over 100 years, but they can travel long distances by
wind and on animals. Weeds will always be part of your
garden.
Perennials grow and bloom over the spring and
summer, die back in autumn and winter, and return the
next spring from their root stock. They can also spread
by seed, but more often become a nuisance by their
creeping root system. They tend to be more difficult to
get rid of than annual weeds.
Dig deep! Many perennial weeds can develop deep and
extensive root systems and/or taproots.
Removing only the top of the plant can actually
exacerbate the problem. Plants will be signaled to put
more energy into the roots and come back with a
vengeance.
Be thorough. New plants can emerge from even tiny
root segments left in the soil.
(Adapted from CGC Antioch University)
63
(Adapted from Green Action Centre http://greenactioncentre.ca/content/why-should-i-compost/)
There are many reasons to compost and a variety of ways to get started.
Composting helps you save money, save resources, improve your soil and reduce
your impact on the environment. Regardless of your motivations, composting is a
mutually beneficial for you and for the environment.
Infusing compost into your garden soil fertilizes and feeds your soil with a diversity of
nutrients and microorganisms that will encourage plant growth. Chemical fertilizers, on
the other hand, provide a quick burst of a limited number of nutrients that can wash away
into our rivers and streams. Compost also increases soil stability, improves drainage and
helps retain moisture.
Creating good, nutrient-rich compost is just a matter of education and practice. That is
why CGCG built a compost training center—to give the community a place to toss kitchen
scraps and encourage them to compost in their own homes. If they do not have the space
to compost—they can just bring their materials to the community garden and place them
in the correct color-coordinated bin. CGCG was able to create three completed compost
piles, using three different methods, to sit over the winter for usage in the spring.
SAVE MONEY!
No need to buy chemical fertilizers. Compost is free!
Compost helps to retain soil moisture so you water less.
The nutrients from compost are not washed away by rainfall. No waste!
SAVE RESOURCES!
Keeps a valuable resource out of the landfill.
Waste less water since compost helps with moisture retention.
Reduce civic costs for waste collection and thereby reduce fuel use.
Extend the life of landfills. Remember residential waste is 40% compostable materials.
IMPROVE YOUR SOIL!
Compost returns valuable nutrients to the soil to help maintain soil quality and fertility.
Compost is a mild, slow release, natural fertilizer that won’t burn plants like chemical fertilizers.
It also improves texture and air circulation for heavier soils and helps to increase the water retention of sandy soils.
Provides organic matter and nutrients which will improve plant growth and lead to better yields.
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REDUCE YOUR IMPACT!
Reduce Green House Gases (GHG’s) in two ways:
1. Reduce Carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions from vehicles used to transport waste
2. Organics in landfills break down anaerobically (without oxygen) to produce methane gas, a greenhouse gas 21 times more
harmful than CO2.
Reduce the impact of chemical fertilizers that runoff into our rivers, lakes and streams.
Buried organics can react with metals in the landfill to produce toxic leachate, a potential source of groundwater pollution.
Common Ground Community Garden is committed to making Hannibal a more
sustainable community. By raising awareness, holding composting workshops, and
providing a space for members of the community to try it out, CGCG continues to promote
and encourage people to reduce the amount of waste and their carbon footprint.
65
Home Remedies for Fungus and Pests
Fungus Control
Best remedy is to prune diseased stems and branches from the plant. Some experts recommend
getting rid of all diseased plants, but that’s not always the best practice since the plant can still
yield a decent harvest. In Common Ground this year we had to deal with septoria fungus from
plants getting too much rain/water and not enough sun because we planted early (May 18th). We
were able to control the spread of this disease and our plants have recovered. We also had
blossom-end rot (BER), and the fruit started rotting on the bottom. This is not a fungus but lack of
calcium. It can be prevented by planting an eggshell in the hole before planting the plant or seed.
We were able to restore the health of our plants by feeding it with bone meal and compost tea.
Apple Cider Vinegar - Use 1-2 tbls per gallon of water for a mild fungicide or acidic liquid fertilizer. Like alcohol can be a natural herbicide if too much is used in tea. Most white vinegars are made from petroleum products. Apple cider vinegar can contain up to 30 trace elements.
Corn meal - Use as a top dressing or in a tea for fungal control.
Compost teas - This multi-purpose fluid can contain beneficial microbes and soluble nutrients that can be a mild fungicide and disease controller.
Baking Soda/ Potassium Bicarbonate Fungus Control Mix 4 teaspoons (about 1 rounded tablespoon) of baking soda and 1 tablespoon of horticultural oil into one gallon of water. Spray lightly on foliage of plants afflicted with black spot, powdery mildew, brown patch and other fungal diseases. Avoid over-using or pouring on the soil. Potassium bicarbonate is a good substitute for baking soda. Citrus oil and molasses can be used instead of horticultural oil.
Insect Control
The best remedy is to keep a close eye on your garden and hand pick insects off plants. But there
are many natural ways to protect your garden from those pesky pests.
Some native Missouri tactics for pest control include: Attracting birds and ladybugs will help get
rid of caterpillars and aphids, planting in tires or using artificial mulch (less organic) to get rid of
squash bugs, using flour and cayenne pepper for bugs, and using wet walnut branches or mulched
walnut leaves around plants for aphids. Other natural ways for insect control include:
Companion planting and intense gardening - you can plant certain plants close together to help fight diseases, control pests, or even improve the soil for its neighboring plants' health.
Garlic, onions - all alliums are great for killing soft body insects. Flying insects can be paralyzed by direct hits. Also a great fungicide. Best if crushed or liquefied in a vegetable oil tea. Use several cloves of garlic per gallon of water.
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Hot peppers - fresh or powder is great for repelling rabbits and other pests. Many soft
body insects can be killed by its acidic "burning" effect. Best when mixed with garlic sprays applications.
Canola oil, vegetable oils - mineral oils work also, but they are made from petroleum products. Oil sprays suffocate soft body insects. Don't use too much on sensitive plants. May burn leaves. Don't use no more than 1 cup of oil per gallon of water. Ground cloves - great repellant and can kill flying insects. Use several tblsp per gallon of water.
Japanese beetles - these pests are best controlled by killing their larva during the winter and early spring seasons with mild topsoil tilling, or using milky spore or beneficial nematode soil applications. During the warm season, the best way to control them is with traps. Simple inexpensive traps can be made by placing several small open milk jugs, cans, or buckets all over your garden. Inside the cans place some rotten fruit or fruit cocktail in 1/2 can of water with 1-2 tbls of liquid soap and 1-2 tblsp of canola oil. You can also add dry molasses or liquid molasses for extra microbial power in the soapy tea mixture to attract and kill them. Also planting a border planting of buckwheat will attract these pests away from your crops.
Diatomeous earth - this natural powdery substance will poke insect bodies and dehydrate many soft body soil organisms, but not earthworms. It can kill bees if direct contact of a spray mixture. This can be used on the soil or sprayed on the plant with soapy water. Unlike most natural pesticides, D.E. can stay in the soil working for decades.
Neem oil - like vegetable oil sprays, it suffocates insects. However, neem goes the extra step of destroying soft body insects' ability to reproduce and makes them starve by removing their appetites. Insecticidal Soap -
Citrus acid and molasses - repels and kills fire ants and similar pests. Mix 1-2 cups per gallon of soapy water. Hot boiling water mixed with garlic products, poured over the fire ant mounds will also kill the queens. You can produce citrus acid from crushing whole oranges or lemons into a tea.
Tobacco products - this is definitely a classic natural pesticide, but most organic gardeners today stay away from it. It may kill beneficials too if abused. It can cause diseases on tomatoes if not properly used. Most modern pro-tobacco pesticidal tea experts suggest brewing a tobacco tea no more than 30 minutes, to be safe enough to not harm beneficials like bees and ladybugs. You can mix in a liquid soap as a spreader-sticker. NOTE: Do not use tobacco teas on nightshade family crops. Also recent research has proven that the available nicotine produced in a tobacco tea is not the same stuff as nicotine sulfate. It is much safer than nicotine sulfate or rotenone. Just one drop of pure nicotine sulfate on your skin can may you sick. Homemade tobacco teas have great knock down power for tough pests like Japanese beetles. Chewing tobaccos are the safest, natural forms for these homemade tobacco teas.
Organic Gardening is all about cooperating with nature instead of working apart from or against nature. Restoring balance doesn’t require the use of toxic chemicals or genetically modified crops – it does require a little ingenuity—to use nature to combat the forces of nature. Get active, get
growing, but most importantly, get creative!
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Putting Garden to Bed: Winterizing
The 2013 season, raised beds were mulched with either wood mulch or with straw
and covered in black plastic. Covering raised beds works to kill weeds—which were
invading most beds towards the end of the growing season. New information from
local gardening group, Desperate Gardeners, revealed that for northeast Missouri
this method is not ideal for this climate. The consensus from several master
gardeners is that black plastic can attract rodents and cause mold. Although
winterization for this season is already done, this will be corrected in the following
season when it is time to winterize the garden again. Instead, CGCG’s new method
for winterization will be to mulch each bed with leaves, straw, or wood mulch and
let sit over winter.
http://www.almanac.com/content/putting-garden-bed
Before the ground gets too hard, remove all weeds and debris and eliminate overwintering sites for insects and disease.
Gently till the soil to expose any insects who plan to overwinter; this will reduce pest troubles in the spring and your garden site will be ready come spring!
Once most of the garden soil is exposed, add a layer of compost, leaves, manure (if you have it), and lime (if you need it). Gently till into the soil.
Another option is to sow cover crops such as winter rye to improve your soil and reduce weeks. See our Related Article above on Cover Crops for the U.S. and for Canada.
If some areas have hopelessly gone to weeds, cover them with black plastic and leave it in place over the winter and into the spring to kill sprouting seeds.
Preventative Maintenance
To prevent blossom-end rot, plant crushed eggshells in with tomato plants.
Check on your garden often - everyday if possible, to catch problems early
Encourage natural enemies by diversifying the habitat and their food sources
Purchase only clean transplants from a trustworthy source, or raise your own in a hygienic greenhouse setting
Use strategies of timing and avoidance - become knowledgeable about the life cycle of pests that you are
aware of and adjust planting dates appropriately if possible
Mulching – some pests and diseases thrive in mulch, others do not. Know your pest!
Crop rotation
Destroy any infected crop debris after harvest
Sanitize pruning tools between uses
When pruning or harvesting, cut stalks at an angle so that water cannot collect and harbor bacterial growth
Cover young plants with row cover (be aware of pollination needs)
Proper watering techniques – not too much, not too little. When possible, avoid wetting leaves.
Use biological control in the form of applying parasitic nematodes or beneficial fungi to restore soil health
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(adapted from The Family Seed Harvesting Handbook)
One of the objectives of CGCG is be become self-sufficient through seed harvesting.
Unfortunately, this was not done the first year. Hopefully there will be a seed harvesting
workshop during the 2014 season. Until then, here are some basic tips for harvest seeds.
Seed harvesting beginners should start with the plants whose seeds are easier to harvest.
Basil Beans Coriander (Cilantro) Dill Fennel
Garlic Garlic Chives Lemongrass Lettuce
Marigold Okra Pea Sage
Sweet Potato Tomato Water Cress
Selecting Plants
• Heirloom varieties handed down from one generation to another
• Local varieties grown as long as local people can remember
• Varieties taken off the market that cannot be bought any more
• Good recent arrivals
• Select a good stem for cuttings
• Select good fruit or root
• Select good seed
A good-sized plant can also be divided to make new plants
When & What Seeds to Collect
• Collect the seed before 10.00 in the morning and after the dew has gone from the stem
and fruit. Collect from a part of the plant that is sunny and healthy, without diseases, insect
attacks or eggs on it.
• Collect all fruits and vegetables when well ripe. For chili and capsicum, collect the seed
when the outside skin is soft.
• For herbs see that the seed is very ripe, pull the stem and root from the soil and hang the
whole plant in cool dry place upside down. Cover with paper bag so seed is not scattered
or lost and keep the stem dry.
• Collect seedpods of beans and cabbages when the outside skin is quite dry and full of
seed.
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• For vegetables with roots, make sure the fruit and seed are very ripe and collect the root
and stem - as for herbs.
Cleaning & Drying Seeds
• Seeds must be thoroughly clean before they are stored for a long time.
• Seeds are heavier when they are alive - dead seeds or seeds which insects have eaten
inside, are light and float in water. To test (large) seeds place them in a glass of water - the
living seeds drop to the bottom and the dead seeds float to the top. If more float than sink
select another lot of seeds if you can and test them.
• Seeds must be quite dry before they are stored or they can rot from fungus, attract pests,
or get diseases from virus or bacteria. So it is important to dry the seed very well but not so
dry as to kill it.
Ways you can dry it:
• Place the seed evenly on newspaper and place it out of the wind on a windowsill and out
of the sun is a good place or on screens and turn it regularly
• Place it in paper bags and hang them in a breezy spot
• In wet weather place it above a fire or heater but never >45°C
Store seeds in water bottles or jars—make sure it is sealed and air tight.
Treating Seed & Controlling Disease
Blackspot, blackleg and black rot
1. For largish dry seeds such as spinach, cabbage place them in hot water at 50°C for 25 minutes
then dry them as above.
2. For wet seeds such as tomatoes, cucumber, melon ferment them by leaving them in a small
amount of water at room temperature for two days and then rinse well until all the pulp has gone and dry the seeds on non sticky paper.
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Seed Packet Definitions
GOOD WORDS TO KNOW
Variety = Latin name found near plant name
Annual = plants that grow, bloom, and die in one growing
season
Biennial = plants that bloom the 2nd year after planting
and generally die after they bloom
Perennial = plants that come up year after year
Culture = this includes information on how and when to
plant, including the number of days to seed germination,
days to harvest, and other growing considerations
Date = packed by & sell by date; best to use seeds that
have been packed for the current year; if stored in a cool,
dry location it is possible to use seeds from the previous
year
Direct seed = for plants that grow best when seeds
planted outside
Start inside = for plants that grow best when seeds
planted inside; then later transplanted into outdoor
garden
Successive sowings = plants with a shorter life cycle, that
can be re-planted throughout the season for optimal
harvest
Germination/Days to Emerge = when you first see signs of
your seeds sprouting and popping up out of the soil
Thinning = after seeds germinate & turn into seedlings
(young plants), selectively pull up excess plants to make
room for growth of others
Days to Harvest/Days to Maturity:
Days leaf/Days seed = # of days until you can harvest the
leaf of the plant/seed of the plant
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Staying on top of harvesting ensures that you get produce at its prime and allow
time for regeneration. Harvest greens regularly, before they start to get bitter and
flower. Cut stalks at an angle to keep water from collecting. Most plants continue
to reproduce after the first harvest, so don’t wait! It is important to harvest regularly
to allow time for new growth. At CGCG during peak season, it was necessary to
harvest every day. Although the harvesting process was not streamlined the first
year, after some research and as a result of feedback from the volunteer
evaluations, a harvest chart will be implemented, there will be harvest parties, and
everyone will have the opportunity to learn how to properly harvest. Hopefully this
will enable volunteers to have the full experience of growing food and give them
the confidence and practice necessary to begin growing their own gardens.
Harvest Chart
Date Type of Crop Weight of
Harvest
Actual # of Harvest (if
applicable)
Distributed or Donated?
List Names Comments
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Common Ground Harvest Tracking Form
Name of Gardener(s):_____________________________________________________________
Date:__________________
Type of Produce
Total # (Pounds or Actual
#)
Actual or
Estimate
Actual Amount
Distributed
Monetary Value
(if known)
Comments
Totals
Who was given produce?
Was any lost to theft or spoilage?
General Observations:
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The evaluation of the first year of Common Ground Community Garden is
particularly important to establish an organizational structure, to develop best
practices, and to create a solid foundation for growth. The evaluation section of this
report is a culmination of observations both from garden leadership and volunteers
and it includes ideas from thorough research of other community garden structures,
a survey of evaluations from other locations (i.e. Wasatch County, Antioch
University), and general conclusions and resolutions for any outstanding gaps in
best practices.
The need for constant evaluation is paramount for the sustainability of this project.
Having participants express their ideas and concerns for CGCG not only
encourages continued participation, but it fosters a sense of ownership over the
program and lets the participants know that their input is of great value.
Throughout the season, volunteers have expressed their issues with processes and
leadership has responded with ways to improve and streamline the process. For
instance, the original communication structure was not being utilized by volunteers
which created overlap in key maintenance areas such as harvesting & watering.
Therefore, a new structure was implemented mid-season. This section will provide a
general evaluation overview of CGCG as a whole in five key areas: Location,
Growing, Conflicts with Volunteers, Theft & Vandalism, and Events, Outreach &
Workshops.
Location:
The site location on 322 S. 8th St. is unique area for a garden. It is positioned on a corner
lot in an industrial area with heavy traffic during the day and light traffic at night. The
close proximity to the police station makes it so that the garden has a steady police
presence. During the day, the lot receives full sun from sunrise to sunset which is both a
benefit and detriment for the garden. Full sun means that the raised beds dry out faster
and with no shade, full sun makes it difficult for volunteers to work on hot summer days. At
night, the lot is very dark with little light making it susceptible for theft & vandalism.
The soil quality of the lot itself inhibits in-ground planting in most areas, which is why the
majority of the garden is planted in raised beds. The gravel area is a benefit for drainage
for each raised bed but can be an issue for accessibility. As the garden developed and took
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shape, the open lot was given parameters. Enclosing the space is good not only for visual &
spatial recognition of the space, but gives the appearance of a fenced in garden. Building
the wattle fence had three purposes: 1.) to close off the very open garden, 2.) to illustrate
how to build with natural materials, 3.) to provide some windbreak for a very windy
location. The wind is so strong at times that recycled materials from the NEMO Recycling
drop-off are blown on the lot making trash a constant problem.
Growing the Garden:
The garden itself had some successes and failures. The soil/manure mixture for each raised
bed was not always mixed well. This had to do with the rush to fill raised beds before the
planting day event and that donations of soil did not mean that the soil was of quality.
Some of the soil was clumpy and made it very difficult to mix. The mismatched
combination meant that some plant did not receive a healthy mix of nutrients.
Furthermore, raised beds have the tendency to have nutrients washed out and require
Most of the vegetables did very well in spite of problems with pests. The first crop of bush
beans failed particularly because of aphids, but also as a result of planting too many in one
location. The bush beans thrived in the beginning but then began dying because they were
not receiving adequate nitrogen due to too many planted. Aphids were hand-picked off
plants and the use of natural pesticides such as insecticidal soap, cayenne pepper, and
garlic tea was used to combat the pesky pests.
Tomatoes did very well even though the beginning of the season was challenged by cool,
wet weather. Also, there was a problem with maintaining calcium in the soil and the fruit
of both tomatoes and peppers had blossom-end rot. This was controlled by watering with
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compost tea and adding bone meal. In the future, it is recommended to plant crushed egg
shells in with the plant to help the soil retain calcium. Towards the end of the season, there
were issues with horn worms. Most were hand-picked and removed from the location. One
community member said they make excellent fishing worms and wants to collect them
next year.
Peppers and cucumbers were consistently fruitful. Cucumbers (Marketmore) started
producing mid-June through the first week of October with approximately 500 cucumbers
produced. Peppers (bell peppers, jalapenos, banana peppers, Carmen peppers, etc) began
bearing fruit early July and produced until the last week of October.
Eggplant, collard greens, & kale were grown as well during the summer. There was not
much volunteer interest in these vegetables. The eggplant had issues with the lot being so
windy. The collard greens and kale were attack pretty virulently by cabbage loopers and
cabbage worms and eventually were pulled up and composted. Other leafy greens like
Redina lettuce were very popular and grew beautifully for fall harvest.
Carrots were grown but did not really produce. The issue with growing was a combination
of not enough sun & water and too many planted in a raised bed. Potatoes were planted as
well and produced a sizeable amount. Making sure the potatoes retained moisture was an
issue with the harvest as well. Onions grew very well. They require quite a bit of water.
Most of the onion bulbs were small—it is recommended to break the green stems so that
the nutrients and the plant energy are directed to the onion itself so that it grows a bigger
fruit.
All herbs, with the exception of cilantro, grew very well. Spacing is an issue with any plant
so more attention will be paid towards spacing and giving plants adequate room to grow.
Conflict with Volunteers:
Managing any group of people with vastly different personalities is a challenge in any
environment. When you are working with volunteers in a community, especially in a newly
development project, conflicts with volunteers should be handled delicately and
expeditiously. CGCG is a new concept for most people so there were challenges and some
resistance to conforming to the communication structure. The goal of the collective
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community garden is to have people work together. This is not easy for some people as
they are often autonomous in their work or do not like following rules and guidelines. In
particular, several volunteers did not want to commit to specific times or communicate
when they were going onsite. This was an issue because people were watering too often
do to lack of communication and overlap in responsibilities.
Although volunteer opportunities were clearly explained, some volunteers still were not
“buying in,” so to speak, to the structure and management system in place. Therefore
adjustments have been made for the next year to plainly explain the responsibility of each
volunteer. If the volunteer wants to play a leadership role, then it is of vital importance
they commit to following through with what that role entails.
All in all, volunteering is not an act done for anyone else. It is something you do for
yourself. If problems continue and are affecting other volunteers and the garden, then the
person or persons causing the problem will be asked to no longer volunteer. If a volunteer
cannot work in a team, communicate through the existing channels, follow the rules, and
respect the project, then perhaps CGCG is not the best place for that volunteer.
Theft & Vandalism:
The general attitude of CGCG towards theft and vandalism is to encourage and welcome
all people to participate in an attempt to discourage theft and vandalism. Although
vandalism was not experienced in the first year, theft did pose somewhat of a problem.
Part of the reason this occurred was that people in the community did not fully
comprehend the concept of a community garden. Some people are so socially conditioned
to receive handouts that they assumed that a community garden meant that someone else
does all the work while they capitalize on the fruits of someone else’s labor. The garden is
set up to accommodate people who cannot commit to a designated length of time for
volunteering so that if someone wants to volunteer an hour here and there, they still
receive produce. But this does have to be communicated to the garden manager—people
cannot just show up and do whatever they want because that defeats the purpose of the
garden. CGCG wants community members to learn and work together so if people come in
and do as they please it undermines the very mission of the project.
More signs expressing the guidelines for the garden and how to participate are important
to prevent further theft. CGCG does not want people to feel as if they have to sneaky
around and steal to get produce—in fact there is a sign that states: “If you want produce,
don’t steal, just ask.” Stealing is something that weighs heavily on the conscience and
CGCG would rather people just ask for produce instead of steal. Ideally, if they want more
they just need to volunteer. The garden is free it just requires a few helping hands.
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Outreach, Events, & Workshops:
For the first year, CGCG relied heavily on word of mouth and attracting media attention in
order to spread the word about the garden and attract more volunteers. Flyers were
distributed on public bulletin boards and the neighborhood surrounded the garden was
canvassed and given information about the garden. Parks & Recreation promoted the
garden through media channels and consistently updated their newsletter with the
goings-on at the garden. CGCG received overwhelming publicity from the Hannibal
Courier Post, The Quincy Herald-Whig, KHQA, and WGEM. All of which contributed to
the public interest in the garden.
For the 2014 season, it is recommended to continue this publicity and outreach strategy
but also begin engaging more schools and churches. The tactic for schools is to find
interested teachers and have their classes plant the starts for the garden—not only does it
incorporate practical and experiential understanding of ecology and biology into the
curriculum, it also generates interest and excitement in children because they are
contributing to something they can watch grow in the community. The idea here is that
the students will go home and tell their parents what they are doing and then on planting
day, they will bring their families to the garden to plant.
Some local churches cater to food pantries and even serve food to the community
members without homes. Having churches engaged in the project not only encourages
more volunteers, but also enhances social services that most churches provide—instead of
canned food in pantries, they have access to fresh or freshly canned food.
The Planting Day Event and the Re-Creation Day event
were both very successful. There were approximately
20 people who participated in planting and over 50
who celebrated CGCG’s summer harvest. Open events
that welcome anyone in the community to participate
are essential for acquiring and retaining volunteers and
community interest. Also having the United Way Event
onsite helped promote the community garden.
Workshops will continue to be a part of the community
garden. Only two were held in the first year:
Organic Gardening and Composting and yielded about 10 participants in each class. Next
year, there will be more thorough orientation classes that will go over how to maintain the
garden (water, weed, prune), how to build raised beds, food preservation, herbs & healing,
seed harvesting, and garden winterizing as well as organic gardening and composting.
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There are several methods to evaluation the garden in the first year, not only for the
program structure itself but to keep more accurate records of the garden itself.
Volunteers were not a homogenous group—ranging from retirees to children,
bringing with them different gardening knowledge and experience, different
socioeconomic backgrounds, and participating for a variety of reasons. Surveys and
verbal interviews were the primary source of feedback for the first year. Some
volunteers also keep unintentionally kept photo journals to track the progress
throughout the season. Below are some methods of evaluation that will be used in
the future as the garden continues to grow.
Produce Scale – Needed to weigh & record harvest of produce. Also keeps accurate
information and helps with even distribution.
Garden Journal—gardeners take notes on when crops were planted, how crops grew,
when crops were harvested, and other things about what they saw, thought, felt, and
learned in the garden.
Photo Journal—gardeners document the growth of the garden from seed start to harvest.
Taste Test—vegetables, fruit, or herb tastings; gardeners can vote on favorites or
comment on the flavor, texture, etc.
Written Surveys & Verbal Interviews—ask specific questions to get gardeners’ feedback
on experiences volunteering.
Written Observation—for both garden management and gardeners, pay attention to
what’s happening out in the gardens—What’s growing & how? How many, how often, &
when are gardeners spending time in the gardens? What’s changes do you notice in
attitude, participation, and responsibility?
Volunteer Evaluations—All volunteers were asked to provide feedback on their
experiences at CGCG. Regarding what volunteers liked best, the general consensus
was that they enjoyed learning new skills about gardening and meeting new
people. One volunteer stated they like “learning new skills, including composting &
new planting techniques. I also learned new concepts about composting and
making a wattle fence.” Another volunteer commented “Seeing the barren lot
transformed into a beautiful productive garden and experiencing different groups
coming together” was what they liked best. Regarding what volunteers enjoyed
least, most said working in the heat and the nuisance of mosquitoes. Other
comments included issues with communication. When asked what volunteers
suggest for making the program more effective, some said that the need for more
volunteers and a more diverse volunteer base is important. One suggestion is to
have work shirts to advertise the garden and to recognize volunteers when working
at the garden.
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Common Ground Community Garden
2013 Volunteer Evaluation
Hannibal’s Community Garden is a volunteer-based and participant focused project.
In order to sustain the project, your feedback is very important. Whether positive or
negative, please let us know about your experiences so we can continue to grow in
the community.
Program Duration: May – October 2013
Location of Program: 322 S. 8th St. Hannibal, MO
The information you provide will contribute in enhancing the project for the 2014 growing
season. You are not required to answer every question, but any feedback helps in ensuring
we provide a valuable and quality program to meet the needs of a wide-range of volunteers
in the community. Your commentary will assist in the future planning and training
improvements of the volunteer structure and classes offered. As always, we appreciate
your time, helping hands, and feedback.
1.) How would you rate your overall experience at Common Ground
Community garden?
Poor Fair Average Good Excellent
2.) Before I participated in this project, my knowledge, skills, or
understanding of community gardening was:
None Beginner Elementary Intermediate Expert
3.) After I participated in this project, my knowledge, skills, or understanding
of community gardening is:
None Beginner Elementary Intermediate Expert
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4.) Did you participate in any skill-building workshops (i.e. organic
gardening/composting)?
Yes No Organic Gardening Composting Both
5.) If yes, how would you rate your overall experience in the workshops?
Poor Below Average Average Above Average Excellent
6.) What topics would be of interest to you if workshops are offered in the
future?
Organic Gardening Composting Seed Harvesting
Canning/Food Preservation Other (please list): _____________________
7.) Because I participated in Common Ground Community Garden…(please
check all that apply)
I eat more vegetables and fruits
I eat more organic and locally grown food
I eat less fast food
I am more physically active
I learned how to grow my own food
I learned how to compost
I feel more involved in my community
I am teaching my friends and/or family to garden
I am donating extra food to other people
I spend less money on food
I am better able to provide food for myself and my family
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8.) In the 2014 growing season, are you willing to…(please check all that
apply)
Be more engaged in community garden volunteer roles?
Help build and plant more raised beds?
Assist in recruiting volunteers?
Teach a class?
Other? (please list) ____________________________________________________________
9.) What did you like best about the Community Garden?
10.) What did you like least?
11.) What suggestions do you have for making this project more effective?
12.) Any additional comments?
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An evaluation of Common Ground Community Garden would not be complete
without a discussion and increased awareness of potential challenges and
opportunities in the upcoming season to increase individual and group
preparedness for the upcoming 2014 season. Common challenges experienced by
CGCG organizers and volunteers include:
Leadership: Community gardens, in general, are management intensive. It requires
time, patience, enthusiasm, resourcefulness, and the ability to organize and work
with diverse people and projects. A good garden manager is creative and has the
capacity to adapt to situations that arise and resolve any conflict. This manual is
intended to assist future garden leaders in managing CGCG.
Maintenance: CGCG requires a significant amount of maintenance—from day-to-
day gardening upkeep to cleaning up the landscape. The grass will need to be
mowed once a week, weeds will need to be trimmed back, plant debris will need to
be composted, and trash will need to be picked up and removed. Watering,
weeding, pruning, and constant pest control take priority—for without a garden
there would be no use for the space.
Sustainability & Participation: Each year will bring an ebb and flow of participants
as they come and go in the community. It can be a challenge to maintain consistent
sense of community and volunteer base with constant changes in volunteers. The
goal is to continue to encourage growth by offering more educational incentives in
conjunction with the incentive for fresh produce. As the old saying goes, “Many
hands make light work” and that is definitely the case for such a labor intensive
project. The more participants there are the less work they will have which leaves
more time to participate in workshops. Gardeners who lack skills and knowledge in
gardening are more like to give up without having an opportunity to learn and
grow in their ability.
Resources for Funding: Since CGCG is not a 501c3 nonprofit, grant opportunities
are limited. Although CGCG received a lot of in-kind donations, the need for
funding would really be for dedicated leadership at the garden.
Vandalism & Theft: May continue to happen.
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Common Ground Community Garden has had a successful first year in spite of obstacles. The majority of problems that occurred throughout the first season were resolved through research, changes in structure, and discussion with participants and community members. The outcomes of the first year represent the anticipated deliverables listed in CGCG’s mission: To provide common ground for ALL people of Hannibal to not only plant seeds and watch them grow but to educate, encourage, and nurture a strong sense of community through creating green, communal spaces. The mission was achieved through a series of interlocking strategies. CGCG transformed vacant and neglected public space into a garden—welcoming not only volunteers who want to learn how to grow their own food and eat fresh, organic fruits and vegetables but people who just want to enjoy the scenery and escape to a colorful, ecological oasis in the midst of an industrial area. This way, CGCG is a
training ground for gardening and a park for enjoyment, to re-create and play outside. CGCG was determined to lead by example, illustrating to the Hannibal community that gardening does not always require excessive monetary spending; you can create a beautiful garden using recycled materials and materials that are nature-made. The very structure of the garden encourages teamwork, identifying that communication is the cornerstone to teamwork.
And—efficient & effective communication is the foundation for community—because it establishes common ground. Community gardens are excellent conversation starters, and CGCG was a place where people could discuss ideas, share and exchange knowledge, and learn from each other—a place to compromise, collaborate, accommodate, and cooperate. The real foundation for a sustainable community is not merely changing behavior to be more “green” or ecological friendly—it is not a reliance on materials with socially conscious labels nor does it require money. Instead, it is a knowledgeable community that uses creativity to work as a team. When problems arise all it requires is for people to use common sense, put their heads together, and come up with a collective solution.
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1.) Invest in leadership. Use the grant money to hire a garden manager to organize
volunteers, workshops, and community events.
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2.) Partner with local organizations. Encourage food pantries to participate for access
to fresh food. Continue to reach out to local organizations & social groups to raise
awareness. Seek fiscal sponsorship for funding. Find an organization willing to
adopt the garden.
3.) Get schools involved in starting seeds for the growing season. Encourage them to
see the benefits of hands-on experiential learning.
4.) Invest in a sheltered picnic area. The lot has no shade and there needs to be a place
for relief from the sun.
5.) Organize workshops in advance—set up dates at the beginning of the season so
that there is time to publicize the educational opportunities.
6.) Offer basic garden training workshops—not everyone knows how to weed, mulch,
water, & prune a garden. Offer certificates of completion. Ask master gardeners
and other garden specialists to conduct a workshop.
7.) Create work parties for harvesting and for construction and turn them into events.
Perhaps even look for sponsors.
8.) Make sure workshops have an evaluation survey and introduce other ways to
evaluate the garden like taste tests or picture journals.
9.) Create more signs with information about the garden, including guidelines and
ways to participate.
10.) Maintain the current building method—using recycled materials and paint.
Perhaps even have local artists do murals.
Above all, remember—it’s not recreation; it’s RE-CREATION.
So let’s go PLAY outside!
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Layer Compost “Lasagna-Style” For no-Till Gardening, (2010)
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/layer-compost-lasagna-style-no-till-gardening
Plants: A Complete List of Cool Season/Warm Season Crops - See more
at: http://www.northeastnursery.com/plants/seasonalcrops.html
US Department of Agriculture, Natural Resources Conservation Service, Community Garden Guide:
Vegetable Garden Planning & Development. http://www.plant-
materials.nrcs.usda.gov/pubs/mipmcot9407.pdf
The Food Project, Toolbox http://thefoodproject.org/food-project-toolbox
Iowa State University Extension, Small Plot Vegetable Gardening
http://www.extension.iastate.edu/publications/pm870a.pdf
University of New Hampshire Cooperative Extension, Home & Community
Food Gardening http://extension.unh.edu/hcfg/Home_Com_Garden.htm
From Neglected Parcels to Community Gardens: A Handbook. Brian Emerson with Ginger Ogilvie, Celia
Bell, Don Anderson, Agnes Chiao and Rob Ferris. Wasatch Community Gardens;
wasatchgardens.org/gardenresources.html
Community Garden Connections. Education Manual. Antioch University, Retrieved from
http://www.antiochne.edu/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/CGC-Education-Manual-Final.pdf
Community Gardening Toolkit: A resource for planning, enhancing, & sustaining your community garden
project. http://web.extension.illinois.edu/jsw/downloads/20532.pdf
Square Foot Gardening
The Square Foot Gardening Foundation http://www.squarefootgardening.org
My Square Foot Garden http://mysquarefootgarden.net
Discover Square Foot Gardening http://www.discover-square-foot-gardening.com
Accessible Beds
Community Action Coalition of South Central Wisconsin, Inc, Community Gardens, Special Needs
Resources, Accessible Raised Beds http://www.cacscw.org/special_needs_resources.php
The Food Project, The Food Project’s Do-It-Yourself Raised Bed Building Manual
http://thefoodproject.org/sites/default/files/DIY-bag-manual-2012_2.pdf
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Cornell University Cooperative Extension, Cornell Garden-Based Learning, Evaluation
Toolkit http://blogs.cornell.edu/garden/grow-your-program/evaluation-toolkit
American Community Gardening Association, Rebel Tomato, Tools for Evaluation
http://www.communitygarden.org/rebeltomato/harvest/tools-for-evaluation.php
ATTRA, National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service, Pest
Management https://attra.ncat.org/pest.html
University of New Hampshire Cooperative Extension, Home & Community Food Gardening, Managing
Plant Problems http://extension.unh.edu/hcfg/Manage_Plnt_Pr.htm
Cornell University, Department of Plant Pathology, Vegetable MD
http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu
University of Minnesota Extension, Gardening Information, Garden
Pests http://www.extension.umn.edu/gardeninfo/insectgallery/garden/index.html
University of Wisconsin Cooperative Extension, Weed Identification &
Management http://weedid.wisc.edu/weedid.php
University of Idaho Extension, College of Agricultural & Life Sciences, Harvesting & Storing Fresh Garden
Vegetables http://www.cals.uidaho.edu/edcomm/pdf/BUL/BUL0617.pdf
University of New Hampshire Cooperative Extension, Garden To Table: Storing Fresh Garden
Produce http://extension.unh.edu/resources/files/Resource001095_Rep1368.pdf
University of Minnesota Extension, Planting Vegetables in Midsummer for Fall
Harvest http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/M1227.html
Composting
US Environmental Protection Agency Composting
http://www.epa.gov/epawaste/conserve/rrr/composting/index.htm
Composting101.com: A Composting Guide for the Home Gardener http://www.composting101.com
Cornell University, Cooperative Extension—Tompkins County, Composting, “How To”
Fact Sheets http://ccetompkins.org/garden/composting/how-fact-sheets
The University of Maine, Cooperative Extension, Publications, Home
Composting http://umaine.edu/publications/1143e
Cornell Waste Management Institute, Department of Crop & Soil Sciences, Home
Composting http://cwmi.css.cornell.edu/compostbrochure.pdf
Cornell University, Cooperative Extension—Tompkins County, Composting, Group Composting: Steps to
Success http://ccetompkins.org/sites/all/files/158/Group%20Composting.pdf
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Colorado State University Extension, Frost Protection & Extending the Growing
Season http://cmg.colostate.edu/gardennotes/722.pdf
University of Maryland, College of Agriculture & Natural Resources, Put Your Garden to
Bed http://mastergardener.umd.edu/local/charles/Horticulture%20Know_how/index.cfm
University of Wisconsin Extension, Brown County, Community Gardens, Cold Frame
Manual http://www.co.brown.wi.us/departments/page_2980c1cfb0a1/?department=68d3c3d55278&su
bdepartment=b2b33ee26bfc
Coleman, Eliot. (1999). Four Season Harvest: Organic vegetables from your home garden all year long.
White River Junction, VT: Chelsea Green Publishing Company.
The Family Seed Saving Book. Morrow & Girard (2002).
http://api.ning.com/files/PAEnmAhjOZzsZCM4vhBE7cKnjrZhrPg1Gr4DOBpdy7*0bx3CbtAAb*VeJbs8Fkfy0p1zFp0
2y*ccqcwdKFtMOV1jRHOSBrt7/38457003THEFAMILYSEEDSAVINGBOOK.pdf
Companion Planting. http://counties.cce.cornell.edu/chemung/agriculture/publications/companion-
planting.pdf
Center for Excellence in Disabilities (accessible gardening fact
sheets): http://greenthumbs.cedwvu.org/factsheets
Cornell University Garden Based Learning (activities, projects, lessons, and
curriculum) http://blogs.cornell.edu/garden/get-activities
Garden Forever (gardening for all ages, abilities, and lifestyles): http://www.gardenforever.com
National Gardening Association’s Kids Gardening Resources: http://www.kidsgardening.org
National Junior Master Gardener Program: http://jmgkids.us
Rodale Institute’s Youth Educational Program: http://www.kidsregen.org
The Edible Schoolyard Project: http://edibleschoolyard.org/resources-tools
University of Illinois Extension (school gardening): http://www.scoop.it/t/school-gardening-resources
University of Nebraska-Lincoln Garden Activities and Resources: http://lancaster.unl.edu/hort/youth
Windham County Farm to School (for veggie of the month): http://brattf2s.wordpress.com
Got Veggies? & Got Dirt? (curriculum &
guides): http://www.troygardens.org/resources/publications/curricula
Harvard School of Public Health, Food & Fun
Afterschool: http://www.hsph.harvard.edu/research/prc/files/ab._about_guide_041612.pdf
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Iowa State Extension, Growing in the Garden (program &
curricula): http://www.extension.iastate.edu/growinginthegarden/kids.html
MFCC / AUNE Farm & Garden Curriculum
Sampler: http://www.cheshireconservation.org/sites/all/files/PDF/Curriculum_sampler_final_smallerfile.
School Garden Wizard, Guides: http://www.schoolgardenwizard.org/wizard/download
University of Missouri Extension, Garden Grow Leader
Handbook: http://extension.missouri.edu/publications/DisplayPub.aspx?P=MP737
Document prepared & written by
Jessie M. Dryden, Social Engineer
Common Sense for an Uncommon Bond
For use by Common Ground Community Garden &
Hannibal Department of Parks & Recreation.
