Light Emitting Pegboard

Display Panel Kits

Making the World a Better Place,One Evil Mad Scientist at a Time

Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories

Support: http://www.evilmadscientist.com/forum/

Kit version 1.1

Manual: Rev. B

An open-source hardware+software project

designed by

Distributed by Evil Mad Science LLC

Tour Mounting holes:4 corners for panel mounting

Top center : Hang a nailTop 1/4,3/4: hang a string

The 25 Rows and 25 columns are numbered along the edges, 0-24

Transistors and resistorsalong left edge of LED field.

Big CPU: ATmega164, an AVR microcontroller.

Also: light sensor, switches,buttons, places to hack in...

LED Field: Each location has roomfor a 10 mm LED, although smaller5 mm (T-1 3/4, “standard size”) and3 mm LEDs will work just as well.

Bottom center and right:power management

1

Printed circuit board:Overall size: 12” x 15”

(30.5 x 38.1 cm)

(US Quarter for scale)

Detailed tour: Lower left corner of boardU1: ATmega164P microcontroller in a 40-pin socket.

Pay attention to the orientation. Extra holes are provided to access most pins directly.

(Can also work with ATmega324P or 644P.)

Optional clock area: leave empty by default.[Can use a 3-pin ceramic resonator or

a (two-pin) low power crystal along with two caps.]

Optional AVR-ISP interface: leave empty by default.[Fits a 6-pin DIL header--

you’ll need a programming interface too.]

“On” button actually resets microcontroller.(Other functions are handled in software,

can potentially be changed.)

Normally empty

2

Light sensor and switch.Default behavior: On all the time

with “Steady” setting. Turns off when it sees sunlight or incandescent light

when on “Auto” setting.

Detailed Tour: Lower center of board

Battery box will go here....

Normallyempty.

Optionalpower jack

Four resistorswill end up

here.

Two horizontal rows: possible places to put resistors;Usually all “RL” locations are filled and all “RJ” locations are left empty

3

What do you make of this?

Hardware hackers may want to flip through the schematics (pages 13-15) before going further to see if inspiration strikes. It is, for example, potentially possible to reconfigure this display to produce limited, simple animations-- with additional electronics and programming. Many other hacks and mods are possible as well-- the circuit board was actually designed with hacking in mind. Places have been left to put certain extra components that you might want and holes have been added to allow direct access to the microcontroller pins.

Our standard assembly instructions, beginning on the next page, will produce a static “pegboard” display, that will light up LEDs in whichever locations you choose to install them, with near-uniform illumination.

They will be driven in an energy-efficient multiplexed arrangement and the infrared light sensor can be used to turn on the display when it gets dark.

Reprogramming the “smart” display is possible, however note that the LEDs are not individually addressable.

4

If you do wish to reprogram the display, you will need to supply a 6-pin DIL header and an AVR hardware programmer with a 6-pin ISP interface. (We recommend the USBtinyISP by Adafruit Industries.)

Assembly: First steps

1. Add resistors RA1, RA3, RA4

5.1 k resistors (Green-Brown-Red-Gold),installed in 3 places.

RA1 - RA4

Implied procedure for components like this:• Bend the leads of a resistor as shown• Place it in the circuit board, at its location• Solder the two pins from the back side• Clip off extra leads on back side.

3. Add wire jumpers JP2, JP3

Jumpers are Zero-ohm resistors (One black stripe),installed in 2 places.

JP2, JP3

2. Add resistors RA2, RB0-RB24

1.0 k resistor (Brown-Black-Red-Gold),installed in 26 places.

RB0-RB24 are located along the left side of the circuit board.Note: Be careful to avoid making solder bridges between the pins.

4. Add slider switch S1

Match the part to the white outline drawing on the circuit board.Solder all five pins.

S1

(Lower left corner of printed circuit board)

5

(Flat face)

Assembly: More stuff to solder5. Install socket for U1

A 40-pin DIP socket.

Orientation matters. Match the half-moon shapeat one end of the socket to the one drawn on the circuit board. Solder it in place. (Same for chip, later.)

6. Install capacitor C3

U1

C3

1000 uF electrolytic cap

Orientation matters. The NEGATIVE side of thecapacitor is marked with a broad white stripe.Solder it with this negative side towards “-” on the circuit board.

+ -

C5 QA1S2 and S3

9. Install phototransistor QA1

LTR-3208E, infrared sensor with dark lens

Orientation matters. Long lead goes in the squarehole. The flat face of the sensor lines up with the outline drawing.

6

7. Install capacitor C5

1 uF ceramic cap (Orientation: Either way.)

8. Add tactile button switches S2 and S3

Match the parts to the drawing on the circuit board.

Orientation: pins stick out on left and right sides, not top and bottom.

Solder all four pins of each switch.

BC

105Z

Phototransistor

QA1

CapacitorC5

75 ohm resistor (Violet-Green-Black-Gold),installed in 26 places.

RL0-RL25 are in a wavy row at the bottom of the LED field.

Note: RJ0-RJ25 should be left empty.

11. Add transistors Q0-Q24,2N4401 NPN transistors, installed in 25 places.

RL0 -RL25

10. Add resistors RL0- RL25

Flat face

Q0 - Q24, Along left side of board

Assembly: Resistors & Transistors, oh my!

Orientation matters. Match the flat face of thetransistors to the drawing on the board.

7

Assembly: Power supply details

J2DP1

Procedure depends on the type of ac adapter (if any) that you are using:

(Lower right corner of printed circuit board)

Battery Only(4.5 V DC)

US/Canada Power supply(4.5 V DC)

InternationalPower supply

(5 V DC)

Jumper JP1 Install Empty Empty

Power Jack J2 Empty Install Install

Power source switch S4

Empty Install Install

Diode DP1 Empty Use wire jumper Use Schottky diode

Can still run on battery

No. (Just kidding!)

Yes Yes

S4

JP1

12. (Battery only)

Install a wire jumper (Zero-ohm resistor) in location JP1.

J2, S4, and DP1 are left empty.

12. (US/Canada 4.5 V power supply)

Install power jack J2, Switch S4 andInstall wire jumper (Zero-ohm resistor) in location DP1.

Location JP1 is left empty.

12. (International 5 V power supply)

Install power jack J2, Switch S4 andInstall Schottky diode in location DP1.

Location JP1 is left empty.(Adding your own external power? Make sure it’s well regulated, protected, and capable of at least 600 mA.) 8

Battery box goes here.Pay attention to the orientation!

Attach to circuit boardwith cable ties through the double hole sets

(Positive terminal)

Then, repeat for the positive terminal of the battery box,

hooking up to VCC_IN1.

Add a zero-ohm jumper from the solder lug to the

GND_IN pin on the board.

“Solder lug” at negative terminal of battery box

Install Battery Box

“Solder lug” at positive terminal of battery box

13. Add battery box

Held in place with cable ties, wired up with a pair of wire jumpers.

Note: when soldering to the two solder lugs, be quick-- the plastic of the battery box can melt if you aren’t careful.

9

(Note: If you have an alternate power source, e.g., you plan to run from an AC adapter all the time, you can skip this step without ill effect.)

The ATmega164P chip goes in the 40-pin socket from step 5. Pay attention to the orientation!

If necessary, bend the leads of the chip to straight upand down before inserting the chip into the socket.Do not bend them by hand; bend all pins on one side at atime by pushing them against a hard flat surface.

The chip goes into the socket with firm, even pressure.

14. Add microcontroller U1

Assembly: Adding Chip & LEDs

The board accommodates up to 625 LEDs in standard sizes up to 10 mm. 3 mm, 5 mm, and 8 mm LEDs will work just fine. Put them where you like, or everywhere.

For standard types of LEDs, the long lead goes in the square hole (the one on the left), and the flat face of the LED package matches the drawing on the circuit board.

It is recommended that only blue, green, white, and purple LEDs be used-- some resistors may need to be adjusted if you wish to use other LED colors instead. Mixing red/orange/yellow with blue/green/white types does not generally work well.

For reference, each LED location is labeled DXXYY, where XX is the row number and YY is the column number. If you do not fill all the holes and wish to blacken the unused labels, a black permanent marker works well.

See additional notes on following page.

15. Add LEDs to the LED field.

From end of chip:

NO

YES

LED Field

Flat face

Long lead

Long leadinto

square hole

10

LED placement tricks

11

Alternative build idea #1: put all the LEDs on the back side of the circuit board. In this case, the long lead still goes in the square hole.

When the grid really won’t do, the LEDs can go between grid locations!

Normal:Long lead into square hole

Bend out Bend down

1. 2. 3.

For all variations: Side of LED with long lead still goes to square hole.

Side with flat still goes to round hole.

And so forth....

Wrapping it up!

Attach one rubber foot in each corner on the back side of the circuit board-- make sure that the circuit board lies flat on these bumpers, not on wire leads.

These will help to avoid accidental short circuits, as well as protect your wall if you hang it up by a hook or string.

Last step: Add the rubber feet

The hardware and software designs used in this project are being released under an open-source license. For more information, please see:

http://www.evilmadscientist.com/article.php/peggy

The firmware is written in AVR-GCC, and we’d love to see what you can do with it!

An open-source project

If you have interesting pictures of things built using this kit or the hardware or software designs, we’d love to see them in the Evil Mad Science Auxiliary: http://www.flickr.com/groups/evilmadscience/

Got pictures?

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Schematics: Page 2 of 3

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Schematics: Page 3 of 3

15