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Irecently completed the renova-
tion of a small bedroom whose
final embellishments had been
put off for many years. The last
two steps in the completion
process were the installation ofcrown moulding on the ceiling
and quarter-round moulding along
the floor. I originally went to my
local box store with the intention
of purchasing both the crown
and quarter-round at the same
time, but quickly abandoned
this idea when I saw the price
of the crown. Thanks to my
beautiful wifes encouragement
we shopped around at another
box store and got a really good
deal on a contractors pro-pack
of crown moulding for about half
of what the first box store was
charging for the same product.
While we were comparing
prices on the crown, I also pricedpieces of quarter-round. I discov-
ered that quarter-round, sometimes
confused with shoe-moulding,
which is not as thick in depth as
quarter-round, was running about
fifty cents per linear foot. For my
project I needed a minimum of
30 linear feet of quarter-round.
This would have cost me $15
plus $1.50 in tax. So, after find-
ing the crown moulding that we
needed for half price, my wife
and I stood in the aisle looking
at all of the trim work on display
and tried to concoct more ways
to save money. It did not take
long for me to decide to mill my
own quarter-round and avoid that
expense completely. Yes, I know,
I sound like Ebenezer Scroogetelling Cratchet to stoke the fire
instead of adding coal to it.
However, my money does me
more good that it does the store.
In my case, I already had close
to a dozen 2-by-4 studs left overfrom a previous project, and I
love to use what I already have
on hand. By having the 2-by-4's
left-over it allowed me to mill my
moulding at no cost at all, unless
you count the electricity that wasused to run the tools.
If, however, it is necessary to
purchase an 8-ft. 2-by-4 stud to
make the moulding, the current
cost in my area for this size
piece of lumber is about $2.36.
I used a large diameter 3/4-in.
round-over bit to make my quar-
ter-round, which allowed me to
produce three, 8-ft. long pieces
out of each stud. Those three
pieces total twenty-four linearfeet. When the $2.36 cost of a
stud is divided by 24 linear feet,
this works out to less than 10
cents per linear foot compared
to $0.50 per linear foot for pro-
fessionally milled moulding. If Ihad used a smaller round-over
bit, then I probably could have
pulled four pieces of quarter-
round out of each stud, thereby
decreasing the cost per linear
foot that much more.
Quarter-Round Moulding
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DIY MILLING
The first step in the milling
process is to set up your router
table if you have one, and if not,
you can free-hand the round-over
edge and achieve the same
result albeit with a little bit more
work. I already had a Freud
round-over bit that I had pur-
chased for another project.
Once you have your router set
up, its smart to run a test
piece through it to see how the
edge looks. This will help you
decide whether or not you need
to adjust the height of the
router bit up or down.
After the router table is set
up, run one side of a 2x4
through the table. In fact, I usu-
ally make a couple of passes to
ensure a smooth finish on the
millwork. This is especially nec-
essary if you are using a large
bit like I did. The bigger the bit,
the more wood that it takes off,
and this usually requires several
passes to achieve a smooth fin-
ish. With the first side of the
stud rounded, rotate the stud
180 degrees and round-over the
other side.
The milling setup for shaping
the quarter-round consisted of a
router, router table and 3/4-in.
round-over bit.
The stock for the project was
simply some leftover 8 2x4studs from a previous project.
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The next step in the process
is to run the 2x4 through a table
saw to cut off the pieces that
will be the quarter-round. This
should be repeated for both
sides of the stud so you end upwith two pieces of moulding and
a square piece of stock left over
that you will use for the third
piece.
This sounds very simple, how-
ever, it took me about half an
hour of experimenting to perfect
my technique. The first problem I
encountered was that the blade
on a table saw usually eats up
nearly 1/4 in. of whatever its
cutting into. Trying to align theblade at the exact edge of the
Run the stock over the router
bit. Take a couple of passes to
ensure a smooth finish.
Shown here is the round-over
profile achieved with the router
bit.
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top of the curve of the quarter-
round without the blade eating
into the curve or leaving too
much waste on the backside,
took a lot of trial and error. I
finally determined that if I set my
fence so it was 24mm from the
blade (the measuring strip on my
bench saw is in 1/4-in. intervals
and, in this case, the metric
measurements were more exact),
that it would take off just what
was needed and leave a very
thin strip of waste along the top
edge of the quarter-round.
The second problem was the
difficulty in holding an 8-ft. long
piece of lumber straight and
steady while pushing it through
a saw. It helps tremendously to
have a feather board or someother type of guide to help hold
the stock secure.
I was able to easily remove
the piece of waste with a wood
chisel by simply sliding my chisel
down the length of the new
moulding. Any reasonably sharp
chisel will do this job, and if a
stubborn spot is encountered
then it can be broken off by hand
by pressing it toward the back of
the piece moulding and thencleaning it up with a chisel.
Run the opposite side of the
2x4 over the bit to make a run
of quarter-round from each
edge.
It helps to keep a fence on
the router table to ensure a
consistent cut.
DO IT YOURSELF
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At this point, the two pieces of
quarter-round should be the prop-
er dimensions on the back, top
and curve of each piece. The
final part of this process is to
make one last cut on the table
saw to reduce the height of the
new moulding. I did this by leav-
ing my fence set at 24mm and
placing the newly milled stock on
its back on top of the table saw
so that the curved portion of the
trim work was pointing toward
the fence. This remaining cut
eliminated some of the height
of the piece of moulding and
ensured that the base of the
moulding measured the same
24mm as the height. In other
words, the new quarter-round was
formed by a right angle that was
24mm along both of its axes.
I repeated these same steps
for the third piece of moulding
that I took out of that 2x4, and
then milled a couple of other
pieces from a second 2x4, all at
no cost to me! I completed the
process by sanding each section
Next step is to run the stock
over a table saw to remove the
width of moulding.
Up to three 3/4-in. moulding
profiles can be made from a
single 2x4.
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of moulding with a piece of 150-
grit sandpaper that I too had left
over from a previous job.
Many different types of mould-
ing can be replicated at home by
anyone with only the minimum
amount of tools. As I said earlier,
a router table came in handy on
this project but it was not an
absolute necessity like the routeritself. I have always viewed tools
and tool accessories as capital
investments. Yes, there are costs
to purchasing power tools and
the many different accessories
that one may need, but these
purchases will pay years and
years of dividends over the long
term. For example, if you spend
$1,000 this year on purchasing
power tools you could easily save
$10,000 the following year by A sharp wood chisel can be used to remove any waste.
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using those same tools to
do work that you would have
normally paid someone else
to do.
Our Revolutionary forefa-
thers were a self-sufficient lot
that did, made and fixed any-
thing and everything them-
selves. Our society has fallen
away from that mentality and
now leans towards calling
someone else to do things for
them. However, thanks to our
anemic economy, many people
no longer have the extra cash
to call that someone and
are now getting back to our
roots of doing it ourselves.
So, my motto is, why buy it
when I can make it!
The final step is to run the moulding over the table saw to
remove the excess height and create the final profile.
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