Extreme How-To Magazine - Holiday 2014 USA

Holiday Digital 2014www.extremehowto.com

PLUS:

The Enthusiast’s Guide to Home Improvement

Your House is a System | Fantastic, Fun, Furniture Finishes

ARTIFICIAL STONE UP CLOSE

WOOD BURNING 101

GIFTIDEASFOR THE DIYHOMEOWNER

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F E A T U R E S

26 Wood Burning 101Heating your House with this Natural, Renewable Resource

32 Your House is a SystemUnderstanding the Relationship between the Components and Systems of your Home

38 Holiday Gifts for the DIY Homeowner

48 Artificial Stone Up CloseLightweight and Easy to Install, Artificial Stone is a Popular Alternative Building Material

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C O L U M N SQ & A

Do-It-YourselfFantastic, Fun, Furniture Finishes

Material MarketGrid Guidelines for a Great Look

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58D E PA R T M E N T S

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Questions About Home Building, Remodeling? Have Your OwnHow-To Tip? Visit our blog at blog.extremehowto.comand click on Ask Our Experts.

Gota?QA&Q:What is the best way to cut fiber-cement siding?

A:Fiber-cement contains silica, considered a carcinogen, so you should avoid breathing the dust generatedby cutting the material. The most dust-free method is to cut with powered handheld shears, or to score

and snap the siding. If you must use a high-speed power tool (circ saw, grinder, etc.), then you should work out-doors, preferably with a HEPA vacuum extraction and definitely with a dust mask. Make the cuts with a specialfiber-cement blade, which has fewer teeth to create larger dust particles, reducing the amount of smaller, breath-able particles.

Q:I'd like to rebuild the rectangular entrance to our kitchen with an arched top, but how do I bend thedrywall for the arch?

A:Remove the drywall above the pass-through from each side of the wall. Cut two replacement panels from1/4in. plywood with matching curves at the bottom. Screw them to the framing above the entrance, and

add short cripple studs between the curved panels. You can then cover the plywood panels with 1/4- or 3/8-in.drywall to match the adjacent walls. To finish the curved area between the two plywood panels, you have threeoptions: (1) Use a special flexible drywall. (2) Create your own flexible drywall by scoring the back of 1/2-in. drywallevery 1/2 or 1 inch. (3) Or, for the look of wood trim on the curve, you can use thin, bendable plywood.

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Questions About Home Building, Remodeling? Have Your OwnHow-To Tip? Visit our blog at blog.extremehowto.comand click on Ask Our Experts.

Gota?QA&Q:How do I install a peephole in a fiberglass door?

A:Fiberglass doors are built with two fiberglass panels with wood blocking and insulation at the core, which youcan drill though to install the peephole. Most peepholes require 1/2 in. hole. Locate the hole in the center of

the door approximately 58 in. from the bottom. Start with a 1/8-in. spiral bit at the peephole location, drill at full speedand press lightly to bore through the fiberglass and into the inner foam core. Drill through the insulating core andthrough the fiberglass panel on the other side. Switch to a 1/2-in. spade bit. On the inside of the door, insert the tip of the spade (or hole saw) into the pilot hole and drill your peephole. To reduce chipping the exterior, stop drilling whenthe tip begins to penetrate the outer fiberglass panel. Then, from the other side, place the drill tip into the pilot hole and drill through the panel, completing the hole. Dab the drilled holes with sealant or epoxy. Insert the sections of thetwo-part peep-hole assembly into each side of the hole. Twist the pieces together to tighten.

Q:How do I calculate the pitch of a roof?

A:Roof pitch is a numerical measure of the steepness of a roof. The pitch is the vertical rise measurement divided by the horizontal span or run. It is the same thing as what is called “slope” in geometry. In the

United States, slope is typically given in inches per 1 foot, or as a ratio of inches per 12 inches, commonlyreferred to with units of “pitch.” For a roof slope of 1/3, a “4 pitch” roof indicates 4 inches of rise over 1 foot of run. Similarly, a “4:12 pitch” is 4 inches of rise over 12 inches of run.

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DO IT YOURSELF

Imagination and a few specialtypaints can turn drab, aged oreven unfinished new furnitureinto fun and exciting décor. Thisincludes both inside and outsidefurniture. A wide range of paintsare available in both brush-on andspray for creating your own fantas-tic furniture finishes.

CRACKLEOne of the most dramatic

furniture finishes is a “crackle.” Acrackle finish is great for revitalizingold, drab furniture pieces, but worksequally well for accent pieces. Acrackle finish can be applied with aspray-on or hand painted technique.Spray-on finishes are best for smalleraccent pieces. The crackle finishes manufac-

tured by Valspar, both spray-on and

paint-on, are available in two styles,Weathered Crackle and PorcelainCrackle. Weathered Crackle haslarge cracks or splits in the top fin-ish; Porcelain Crackle has smallerchecks, more resembling agedporcelain. Both are available in awide range of both base and top-coat colors. Check your local Lowe’sstore for what’s available. Spray-on crackle finishes con-

sist of two cans, base and topcoat. Brush-on finishes consist ofa base coat, Crackle Glaze and atop coat. Any latex paint can beused as both base and top coat.The effects can be dramatic.Experiment on a scrap of woodbefore tackling your furniture oraccessory project to make sureyou understand the crackle finishand the colors.

In both instances, make surethe surface is clean of all grit, oiland loose particles. For spray-oncrackle, spray the base coat atroom temperature, making surethe coating is applied evenly andthat the surface is covered well. Ifthe object to be covered has a pre-vious paint coat, test spray in aninconspicuous area to make surethe paints are compatible. In mostinstances you should apply atleast two coats of base to makesure the object is well covered.Allow the base coat to dry thor-oughly, and then spray on thecrackle top coat.

By Monte Burch


Fantastic, Fun, Furniture FinishesA Variety of Finishes Adds Class and Character

Imagination, time and specialtypaints will turn drab furniture,such as this old chest, into exciting and unusual décor. Shown is a crackle finish.

To create this crackle finish, a base coat of tan latex trim paintmatching the color of the walls isfirst applied.

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The crackle glaze techniqueusing brush-on or roll-on latexpaint requires first applying asmooth base coat of the desiredcolor with a roller or brush, making

sure the coating is smooth andevenly applied. Again, you maywish to apply more than one coatto ensure thorough coverage.Allow the last coat to dry

overnight. For a Porcelain Crackle,apply an even coat of glaze to thesurface using a foam brush in anX pattern, overlapping the brushstrokes to cover the surface.Reload the foam brush and evenout the glaze by running the brushover the surface. Add more glazeas needed and make a finalsmoothing pass in the same direc-tion as the wood grain. Allow thecrackle glaze to dry at least 24hours, and then apply ValsparAntiquing Glaze or Translucent


DO IT YOURSELF

The crackle glaze is applied and allowed to set for 2 to 4 hours.

In this case a plum-colored topcoat was applied. Within minutesthe top coat will separate intocrackles.


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Color Glaze to the surface with adry rag or brush. Remove excessglaze before it dries and thenapply a coat of Valspar ClearProtector.

Weathered Crackle is applied insomewhat the same manner, firstapplying the base coat and allow-ing to dry overnight. Then applythe Weathered Crackle Glaze to

the surface using a quality nylonbrush or short-nap (1/4-inch)roller. For a more pronouncedcrackle, use the brush. For a moredelicate appearance, use theroller. The more Crackle Glazeapplied, the more pronounced theseparations. Make sure the coat is

DO IT YOURSELF


The crackle finish can be almostany combination of contrasting colors. Shown here, plum was usedas the base.

The tan color was then used over the plum as the top coat.

One of the most popular finishesthese days is the rubbed or “distressed” look.


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applied evenly, but do not over-work. Allow the glaze coating todry 2 to 4 hours. Then, using aroller or brush, apply a top coat ofinterior flat paint. The paint must

be flat sheen paint. Any othersheen will not produce an effectivecrackle finish. Do not overwork thetop coat, as this can cause thepaint to ball up. Within minutes

the top coat will begin to separateinto crackles, allowing the basecoat to show through. Allow to dryovernight. To create an even moreweathered look, rub AntiquingGlaze or Burnt Umber over theWeathered Crackle Finish. Allow to dry at least 72 hours, and thenapply a coat of Valspar ClearProtector. Create an even moredistressed appearance by rubbingor sanding off the edges or downthrough the top coat to the colorbeneath.

CREATE A RUBBED FINISHThe popular “rubbed” finish is

actually not rubbed but sanded.This technique is especially effec-tive on furniture. The simplesttechnique is to apply several coats of a quality latex paint to the object, allow them to dry andthen use fine sandpaper to lightly

DO IT YOURSELF


A latex trim paint is applied.

Then the edges, as well as someof the flat surfaces, are lightlysanded to remove a portion of the paint.

The Ultimate Screw Extractor! Rusted, Stripped, Stuck...No Problem!

The VamPLIERSTM family of screw extraction pliers incorporates thepatented VamPLIERSTM technology. This technology provides a solution to extracting the toughest screws, nuts, and bolts, including tamper-proof, one-sided, low profile, and specialty screws, like Torx Screws.Available in four different sizes to accommodate a wide variety of stuck fastener sizes in constricted spaces to large fasteners found in industrial applications. VamPLIERSTM are uniquely perfect in maintenance, repair and operations (MRO) applications.

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www.arkestairs.com

SPIRAL STAIRSAND MODULARSTAIR CASE KITS

The OAK 70.XTRAThe Oak 70.XTRA is an adjustable premier series spiral staircase thatfeatures solid Oak wooden stair treads and landing to complementand add style to any interior living space. Surrounding the full lengthof the staircase, the horizontal balusters and railing design is visuallyunique when compared to the traditional vertical baluster design ofmost stairs. The staircase can be easily installed by the homeownerin a single day using common household tools. The Oak 70.XTRA is available in 2 diameter sizes and is available in 2 choices ofcolor…Hi-Gloss Black and Hi-Gloss White.

• Standard kit includes 12 oak wood stair treads, a landing, a complete handrail, and all necessary hardware and connectors.

• Diameters available include a 5 ft. 3 in. model and a 4 ft. 3 in. model.

• The height range for the standard kit is adjustable from 8 ft. 3 in.to 10 ft. 2 7/8 in. and with additional components, can beinstalled to a maximum height of 11 ft. 9 5/16 in.

• Powder coat finished painted in either Hi-Gloss Black or Hi-Gloss White.

• Can be installed in a clockwise or counterclockwise rotation.

• Stair treads and landing are made of solid Oak wood with a natural stain and a polyurethane protective coating.

• Balcony rail kits are available in matching color and horizontal baluster and railing design.

• Handrail is manufactured from an aluminum core surrounded by a soft PVC cover to allow the handrail to be curved at thetime of installation to accommodate the radius of the staircase.

• Rise between stair treads is adjustable from 8 3/8 in. to 9 ¼ in.

• Interior installation only.

• A complete installation guide is included in all kits and an installation video is available upon request.

• Homeowner should consult with local building department concerning building codes prior to purchase.

AVAILABLE THROUGHOUT THE USA, ARKESPIRAL AND MODULAR STAIRCASE KITSCAN BE BUILT IN A DAY BY THE AVERAGE DO-IT-YOURSELF HOME ENTHUSIAST.

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One of the traditional fun finishesis “antiquing.” Antiquing kits areavailable, and the process involvesapplying a base coat, then astained glaze and wiping off the latter.

Simple in design but handy during a painting job, the Magnetic Paintbrush Holderavailable from Lee Valley Tools does just what it sounds like. The EHT staff put thegadget to use on some recent paint projects, and it conveniently clips to the rim of apaint can so the metal ferrule of the brush can adhere to the magnets, vertically orhorizontally. This helps prevent the bad habit of laying a wet brush “just any oldplace,” where it usually collects dirt or debris and/or leaves a drippy mess. The down-ward angle of the brush also allows paint to flow from the bristles back into the can,making brush cleanup much easier. Plus, the clip includes a metal tab for openingpaint cans. The Magnetic Paintbrush Holder sells for only $3.90 atwww.leevalley.com.

MAGNETIC PAINTBRUSH HOLDER


Limed oak is a very popular finishand turned this previously dark

50’s desk into a great sewing andcraft room work surface.

DO IT YOURSELF


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sand the corners and edges. Asyou can guess, this techniqueworks best with furniture designswith lots of edges, such as frameand panel.

An alternative method is toapply a base coat of one color,

allow it to dry and then apply sev-eral top coats of another color.Sand down through the top coat tothe base coat in selected areas.This technique is great for match-ing a furniture piece to roomdécor, using either the base or topcoat as the match and the othercoat as a complementary color.


DO IT YOURSELF

Polyurethane varnish is thenapplied over the dried surface.

White latex paint mixed with wateris applied to the surface.

While still wet, the paint is lightly rubbed off the surface with a softcloth to create a smooth, streak-free finish, while leaving white in the oak grain.


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“ANTIQUE” FINISH The “antiqued” finish has been

extremely popular for some time.This finish consists of applying abase coat, then following with anantiquing glaze. The products areoften sold in kit form containingthe undercoat and glaze. You canalso create your own antiquingglaze by adding burnt umber oilcolors to polyurethane varnish anduse any choice of color for theundercoat. In either instance,experiment on scrap wood beforeattempting your furniture project.After the base coat has dried, theglaze is applied with a foam brush,and the excess glaze wiped offwith a clean rag. Always apply

glaze and smooth out with thedirection of the wood grain. Again,furniture projects with pronouncededges and moldings produce thebest effect.

LIMED OAKA very popular and simple

furniture finish is limed oak.Actually, this has become increas-ingly popular as a cabinet finish aswell as for house trim, not only onoak but with other woods as well.The process is actually quite sim-ple. Dilute a satin-sheen whitelatex paint about half with waterand apply in a smooth, even coat

to the cleaned wood surface usinga foam brush. Allow the latex to sit for a few minutes, then removethe excess with a clean rag, wipingin the direction of the wood grain,but leaving plenty of color in thewood grain. Allow to dry thorough-ly, and then apply a top coat ofpolyurethane or Valspar ClearProtector.

SPRAY PAINTS If you haven’t walked down the

spray-paint aisle in a big-box storefor some time, you may be sur-prised, not only at the vast array of colors, but also the number ofspecialty paints as well. Some of the most interesting are themetallic colors. Gold, silver, brass,bronze, copper, pewter—you name

Furniture is not the only household items that can be revamped with a new paint finish. If you’ve priced today’s cabinet and furniture hardware, then you know they’re quite expensive. Old hardware can often be redone with a new spray-on finish. We recently repainted some kitchen cabinet hardware and saved a lot of money. You can create an “antiqued” type of hardware finish by first spraying with a metallic paint, then rubbing “gilt” paste across the top surfaces. We have refurbished old light fixtures,furnace floor registers and a number of other items with a newsprayed finish. Appliances can also be spray painted. The first step is to thoroughly clean the item with mineral spirits and allow it to dry completely. Position the item so it can be sprayed from all sides,and then apply the spray paint according to the manufacturer’sinstructions.

HANDSOME HARDWARE

Some of the most interesting andeasy-to-use furniture finishes aretoday’s unusual spray paints. Rust-Oleum Hammered Bronze turned apair of green chairs and a whitetable into a matching set of out-door furniture.

First step in using spray paints on outdoor furniture is to removeany rust and loose particles, thenclean the surface thoroughly.Apply the spray evenly in several

coats, keeping the nozzle about 12 inches from the surface. Keepthe can moving to prevent runs.

In this case Rust-Oleum MultiColorTextured spray paint creates a richand elegant textured surface on apreviously drab black finish.


DO IT YOURSELF


it. The most striking are the“hammered” metallics, but otherfinishes also simulate “suede”and stone as well as other tex-tures. Several of these specialtymetal-style paints can be usedfor a quick and easy rejuvenationof metal outdoor lawn furnitureand accessories.

It’s important to choose a long-lasting spray paint designed foroutdoor use on metal, such asRust-Oleum. Although this canactually be applied directly overrust, it’s important to first loosenscale and remove loose paintand rust flakes with a wire brushand/or sandpaper. Then cleanthe surface with soap and waterto remove grease and oils, and

allow the surface to dry thorough-ly. The use of a metal primer canalso help the paint adhere andprovide a longer lasting finish.

Spray paints should only beused outdoors or in a well-venti-lated area, such as an opengarage. Do not apply in windyconditions. For the best drying,apply in temperatures between50 and 90 degrees and withhumidity less than 85 percent.Shake the can thoroughly thenapply the paint in smooth evenstrokes approximately 12 inchesfrom the surface, overlapping thestrokes and keeping the spraynozzle the same distance fromthe surface at all times. It’s bestto apply in several medium coats,rather than one heavy coat tolessen the chances of runs anddrips. In good conditions the paintshould dry in 15 minutes, to thetouch in 90 minutes, and shouldcure thoroughly within 48 hours.

FAUX FINISHESA number of other “faux” paint

finishes, designed primarily forcovering walls can also be usedto create unusual finishes on furniture. The Valspar products

include Textured Stone, RagRolling, Linen Weave, ColorWashing, Sponging, Leather andMetals and Patinas. In mostinstances the entire furniturepiece is not treated, only the top,panels of doors and other select-ed areas. In all instances theseconsist of first applying a basecoat, then applying a top coatusing a variety of tools to createthe design desired. For moreinformation on faux finish prod-ucts and techniques, visitwww.extremehowto.com. EHT

Today’s spray paints can createunusual decor. The shelf shown isa 2 x 6, California Redwood scrapfrom a building project with a dis-tressed gold finish. First step is tocut the shelf and rout the edges.Then cut a bottom support stripand fasten it to the underside ofthe shelf.

Spray or brush on an undercoat ofplum or other dark paint to matchthe interior decor.

Rub the edges with a soft cloth,or wait until the paint dries anduse 0000 steel wool to rub offthe edges.

While still wet, a foam brush isused to lightly remove some ofthe gold to allow the undercoatto show through.

Rust-Oleum Pure Gold Metallicpaint is then sprayed onto thesurface.


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by Monte Burch

With the economy and price of heatingfuels today, many folks are heatingwith wood or are considering wood

heat for the first time. Wood heat may be abackup for another heating source, a soleheat source, or used only for emergencies.Regardless, it’s important to understand theadvantages and disadvantages of heatingwith wood.

Wood is an environmentally friendly, or“green,” heat source as opposed to fossilfuels. Wood is also readily renewable. Astrees grow and are harvested, they can bereplaced or will usually replace themselves.Wood doesn’t contribute to air pollution inthe same manner as fossil fuels. CO2, themain ingredient in greenhouse gas, absorbedfrom plants as they fossilized millions ofyears ago, is oxidized by burning the fuels.Growing trees absorb carbon dioxide, andwhen the wood is burned releases the car-bon dioxide, only to be reabsorbed by grow-ing trees.

Another advantage of burning wood is dur-ing an emergency when the electricity is off.Wood supplies heat along with cooking andwater heating, as well as some illumination.

And, firewood is usually more economical toburn than fossil fuels.

There’s also the romance of a wood fire.Sitting, gazing at our fireplace in the earlymorning before daylight, with that first cup of coffee, is my favorite wintertime start ofthe day.

However, burning wood also has disadvan-tages. It requires a storage place. And, anyway you look at it, burning wood is messy.Wood chips, bark pieces and other littercome in and ashes go out, not to mentionthe maintenance required of cleaning a fire-place or stove and chimney. Smoke pollutionfrom burning wood can also be a problem,especially in low-lying or urban areas. It’simportant to check local regulations regard-ing wood burning. Also check with yourhomeowner’s insurance. A wood-burning fireplace or stove can add to the cost.

WOOD AS FUELWhen wood burns, water evaporates from

the wood and a chemical reaction breaksdown the wood into charcoal, gas andvolatile liquids. Carbon dioxide and waterare released as the main byproducts. As

WOODBURNING101 Heating Your Home with

this Natural, RenewableResource

©n3rd-artphoto.com


the charcoal burns, it forms car-bon dioxide as well as carbonmonoxide. Wood, like other heat-ing fuels, is rated by BTU (BritishThermal Units, or the amount ofheat needed to raise the tempera-ture of one pound of water onedegree Fahrenheit). Theoretically,a pound of very dry wood with amoisture content of zero wouldhave a califoric value of 8,600BTUs. Any moisture in the wood,however, vaporizes as it goes upthe chimney, reducing the BTUsabout 1,200 per pound of waterreleased. It is not possible, howev-er, to reduce the moisture content

of wood to zero. Twenty percentmoisture content is probably aslow as you can get firewood. Onepound of wood having a moisturecontent of 20 percent has approxi-mately 0.83 pounds of dry woodand 0.17 pounds of water. Thisresults in a heat potential ofapproximately 7,000 BTUs. Thefuel value of wood depends on themoisture content as well as thedensity of wood.

THE RIGHT TYPEAny wood will burn, but the

denser or heavier woods providemore BTUs per cord. According to Homelite, one cord of averagehardwood, such as white ash, provides the fuel equivalent of 165 gallons of heating oil. Verydense woods, such as oak, canprovide as much as 244.55 gal-lons of heating oil while the soft-woods such as Eastern white pineprovide the equivalent of 86.9 gallons. Some of the densest woods

are the locusts, hickories, oaks,mulberry and sugar maple trees.Some moderately dense woodsare ash, walnut, hackberry, elmsand sycamore. The poorest hard-woods include soft maple, cotton-wood, willow and box elder.Evergreen species should beavoided due to their resin con-tents. The resin causes unwanteddeposits in flues and chimneys,making them difficult to clean and subject to chimney fires. Firewood should be cured

before burning. Uncured firewood,with high moisture content, burnscooler and creates more creosote,requiring more cleaning and main-tenance and is more of a chimneyfire hazard. It takes time to dryfirewood properly. If purchasingfirewood, ask how long since it’s been cut and/or cured. If cut-ting your own firewood, it takes approximately nine months to

a year to dry firewood to an average moisture content of 20 percent, depending on thespecies. Dense hardwoods do best if allowed to season for a full year.One trick is to cut down the

whole green tree during the grow-ing season, allowing the wiltingleaves to pump moisture from thewoody tissue. Once the trees aredead, they can be cut into fire-wood in a somewhat drier state. If possible, cut and split firewoodearly in the year to hasten the dry-ing process. Twelve-inch diameterwood should be at least quarteredfor faster drying. Cut more thanyou need for the winter and carryover a supply of dried wood for the following year. The most common measure

of firewood is a cord. A cord is a stack of logs 4-by-4-by-8 feet.Most wood, however, is sold inlengths shorter than 4 feet, calleda “face cord,” or a 4-by-8-ft. stackthat is face-cut into the desiredlength, such as 16 inches. The lat-ter would be one-third of a stan-dard cord. Wood is also sold bythe ton, or even “pickup load.”One ton of air-dried dense hard-woods, such as hickory or oak,equals approximately half a cord.When buying wood by the ton,


The different species of woodburn differently, determined by the density of the wood, with oakor hickory being some of thedensest and most efficientlyburned woods.

Firewood is commonly sold by thecord, which is a stack of logs4x4x8 feet, or a “face cord,” astack 4x8 feet, but the length ofthe firewood is usually 16”.

8’

4’

4’

WOODBURNING101

Burning wood safely requires following all safety rules regardingyour burning unit, and keepingthe fireplace or stove maintainedand properly cleaned.


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Splitting logs is easier if you follow the natural“split” of the end grain.

Maul or wedge


look for the driest wood to preventpaying extra for water. Firewoodbundles, sold at conveniencestores, supermarkets and otherretailers, are also popular. Properlyseasoned oak or other hardwoodsweigh about 3,600 pounds percord. A bundle weighing 36 poundsis about 1/100 of a cord. Or, abundle 1-by-1-by-2 feet is 2 cubicfeet, or approximately 1/64 of acord.

DIY APPROACHThe most economical tactic is

to cut, split and season your ownfirewood. Gathering firewood, split-ting, stacking and seasoning canbe a very enjoyable and healthfulpastime for the entire family.“Warms you twice,” my Uncle Mike used to say.

Make sure you follow all safetyinstructions and rules regarding

chainsaw use and keep familymembers away from all cuttingchores.

Wood for firewood is available from many sources. Inproperly managed timberlands orwoodlots, firewood comes fromdiseased, poorly formed or over-crowded trees, or species inferiorfor use as building materials.These trees must be “weeded out” much like weeding a garden.If you have your own woodlot oraccess to a private woodlot, con-tact your State Forestry Office for assistance in identifying treesthat should be removed. Ask permission before cutting orremoving trees from property other than your own. Storm-dam-aged trees are a great source offirewood often available simply for doing the cleanup. NationalForests and other public landssometimes have free firewood inorder to manage the timberlands.Landfills are another source.Sawmills often sell slabs and trims for a nominal price.

Wood can be burned in fire-places, fireplace inserts and inwood stoves. Fireplaces are theleast efficient with an efficiencyranging from 10 to 20 percent.Fireplace inserts with circulating

fans increase efficiency. Woodstoves are more efficient and areavailable in three basic types;combustion, radiant heaters andcirculating stoves. Combustionstoves with the look and feel of an open fired “Franklin Type” arein the 50- to 60-percent range.Circulating stoves are the mostefficient. Hearth stoves are anoth-er type of circulating stove, andboth are in the 60- to 70-percentefficiency range. Follow all safetyrules regarding your burning unitand keep it well maintained androutinely cleaned.

Properly harvested and sea-soned wood burned in a safe and efficient heating unit is aneconomical, safe, efficient, anddesirable fuel from a renewableresource.

Firewood burns most efficiently when split. Twelve-inch and larger diameter trees should be quartered. Splitting is good exercise. A goodsplitting maul and/or splitting wedge makes the chore easier. Makesure you wear safety glasses and gloves.

WOODBURNING101

Cutting, splitting and seasoningyour own wood is fun, good exercise and very economical. A “bucking horse” makes cuttinglogs to length easier.

Any number of midsize chainsawsis perfect for cutting your own firewood.

EHT



Manage your land this winter withthe Land Pride SBL25, a front-mountSnow Blower designed to fit skidsteers and tractors with Quick-Attach plates. It is a fully hydraulicunit—auger, impeller, chute anddeflector—and features a 24-in.impeller and 16-in. auger. The auger features four paddles to direct snow into the four-bladeimpeller to direct the snow into the chute. Skid shoes are adjustableand replaceable. The unit is availablein 66-, 74- and 84-in. widths. Visitwww.landpride.com.

LAND PRIDE SBL25 SNOW BLOWERS



Photo courtesy the Tapco Group

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YOURHOUSE

IS

ASYSTEM

Understanding the relationship between componentsand systems can affect the comfort, health, safety,

durability and energy efficiency of your home.

By Larry Zarker


YOUR HOUSE IS A SYSTEM

You understand that your caris made up of interactingcomponents and systems—

when one component fails, itaffects the performance of theentire vehicle. But did you knowthat the same goes for yourhouse?High energy bills, uneven tem-

peratures from room-to-room,drafts, moisture, mold, mildew,poor indoor air quality, ice dams,pest infestations, seeminglyuncontrollable humidity levels andeven premature deterioration ofbuilding materials can all be theresult of a breakdown in the rela-tionship between the systems inyour house. Often what seems likethe obvious culprit—a prime fix fora competent do-it-yourselfer—isnot actually the root cause. Thatobvious fix can not only fail tosolve the original issue, it canactually put more strain on therelationship and compound the

problem—or create a whole new set of problems.To get it right, you need to con-

sider the whole home using thehouse-as-a-system concept.

HOW HEALTHY IS YOURRELATIONSHIP?There are three main systems

that impact energy, comfort, healthand safety: the building envelope(also called the building enclosure orshell), the heating, ventilation andair conditioning (HVAC) equipment,and the occupants.The building envelope consists

of the roof, exterior walls and foun-dation of the house. Its role is toseparate the indoor living environ-ment from the outdoor elements.It blocks wind, rain, heat and cold,protecting the interior of the houseand its occupants.

The HVAC provides comfort con-ditioning intended to make the liv-ing space enjoyable. It providesheat in winter, and for those whohave air conditioning, cool in sum-mer. It also circulates fresh air and regulates humidity levels.The third system—the occu-

pants—can affect the performanceof the home by their behavior. Justliving in the house has an impact,although some habits have moreeffect than others.Unless you live in the most tem-

perate and consistent of climates,the envelope will not keep you com-fortable on its own. And if there is aproblem with the building envelope,the HVAC cannot properly performits comfort conditioning function.Additionally, if the occupants crankthe thermostat and then leave the windows wide open, or place


The building envelope works in conjunction with the HVAC system tomaintain a comfortable temperatureand humidity level inside the home.Photos courtesy James Hardie


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YOUR HOUSE IS A SYSTEMfurniture or belongings over the reg-isters and cold-air return vents, theHVAC doesn’t stand a chance.

Here’s a scenario … You’reuncomfortable so you reach forthe thermostat, but the HVAC stillcan’t keep up. Your energy bills gethigher. You notice condensationon windows. You find mold in thebasement. The attic is damp andyou worry about warping and rot.The kids seem to catch one coldafter another. If your house were acar, the ‘check engine’ light wouldbe blazing and mysterious rattleswould be coming from under thehood.

So you spend money and aweekend or two putting in moreinsulation. The problem gets a bitbetter, but it isn’t solved. You lookat the condensation and wonder ifyou should get new windows. Youinstall a new thermostat and thinkabout replacing the old furnacewith a high-efficiency model. Youtake the kids to the pediatricianfor another round of antibiotics.Meanwhile, you’re still uncomfort-able and your energy bills are stillway too high.

The ‘process of elimination’strategy to home-performancerepairs can cost a lot of moneyand time without ever achievingthe goal of a comfortable, healthy,safe and energy-efficient home.The alternative is to conduct awhole-home assessment to findthose relationship problems andtackle them at the root cause.

One of the most common rela-tionship problems between theenvelope and HVAC is “uncon-trolled” air leakage through thebuilding envelope. In this scenario,that indoor air you pay to heat andcool escapes through gaps, cracksand holes in the building envelope.It’s “uncontrolled” because all thewindows and doors (the intention-al holes in the envelope) are shut

and air is still escaping. The U.S.Government’s Energy Star pro-gram estimates uncontrolled airleakage can waste as much as 30percent of the energy used to heatand cool an average Americanhome. Another common problemis leaky ducts in forced-air HVACsystems. In a typical house, about20 percent of the air that movesthrough the duct system is lostdue to leaks, holes and poorly connected ducts, according toEnergy Star.

FINDING THE PROBLEMSA comprehensive whole-home

assessment is best performed bya trained and qualified technicianfor two reasons:

1) Properly diagnosing homeperformance problems and pre-scribing solutions requires a background in specialist build-ing science that most DIY’ers just do not have.

2) The job requires specialist(and often expensive) diagnostictools—such as a pressurizationblower door and infrared camera—that are not likely to be found inthe average DIY tool kit.

What you can do to prepare forthe comprehensive assessment is conduct an initial audit of yourown. Start by writing down all thesymptoms, including when andwhere in the house you noticethem most. Make a list of anywork that’s been done and when it was done—for example, youmight note that you installed newinsulation last fall, or convertedthe deck to a sunroom three sum-mers ago, or changed from a window A/C to central air fiveyears ago.

Pull together all your energy bills for the last year (the fartherback you can go, the better) and look for usage patterns orchanges that correspond with

the symptoms, the previous work,or both. Double-check the age andrating on your HVAC equipmentand household appliances and be sure you know the fuel types foreach.

Walk through your house andlook for clues—taking pictures asyou go if you have a camera. Arethere damp spots? Is dust collect-ing or is the carpet looking dirtynear the baseboards? Is the snowmelting in a weird pattern on theroof? Does the furnace make afunny noise or produce a strangesmell when it’s running hard? Isone room particularly hot or cold?Which windows seem to carry themost condensation?

When you present your findingsto your specialist home perform-ance contractor, he or she shouldlisten carefully, take good notesand ask follow-up questions aspart of the homeowner interviewbefore starting the physicalassessment. They’ll probably alsoevaluate your energy bills and asksome questions about that third system—the occupants and their


The HVAC heats, cools, circulatesfresh air and regulates humidity.


behavior—either before or after the physical audit.

The comprehensive assessmentwill start with a thorough walk-through—both indoors and out. Thetechnician may use an infraredcamera to get a visual on temp-erature differences in differentareas, conduct a blower door test to depressurize the house toassess air leakage levels, and testfor leakage in the duct work offorced-air HVAC systems. They mayalso perform other function andsafety tests on HVAC equipment,including carbon monoxide levelsand combustion back-draft testing.

At the end of the comprehensivewhole-home assessment, yourhome performance contractorshould be able to provide you witha scientific, objective view of thesituation. They should be able tohelp you prioritize repairs in order—from must-do to nice-to-do—so youcan solve the biggest problemswithout making smaller problemsworse. They should also be able to guide you regarding which fixesare suitable for your particular DIYskill level, and which will requireexpert help—either from the con-tracting company who performedthe assessment or from anotherqualified, trained source.

SHOW ME THE MONEYUpgrading your home’s perform-

ance can increase its value and

provide great rewards in terms ofcomfort, health, safety and energysavings. But it can also require aninvestment of money, time or both.It’s worth investigating Federal,State and local homeowner incen-tive programs. You can visit theDatabase of State Incentives forRenewables & Efficiency (DSIRE) at www.dsireusa.org and click onyour state on the map to find outwhat’s available in your area. Youcan also find a state-by-state indexof participating Home Performancewith Energy Star programs atwww.energystar.gov.

Just be aware that many ofthese incentive programs will needyou to register before your initialwhole-home assessment is done,and then have another whole-homeassessment performed after all the work is completed to ensure it was completed satisfactorily tothe levels required by that specific

program. Some programs alsorequire the assessments and workbe performed by contracting com-panies with specific qualifications,such as Building PerformanceInstitute Certified Technicians orAccredited Contractors.

Understanding how your houseworks as a series of interconnectedsystems can help you identify theroot cause of problems and findsolutions to improve the comfort,health, safety, durability and energy efficiency of your home.

Editor’s Note: Larry Zarker is theCEO of the Building PerformanceInstitute (BPI), an independent,not-for-profit organization commit-ted to the improvement of homeperformance via training, certifica-tion, accreditation and qualityassurance programs for residentialcontractors and their customers.Learn more at www.bpi.org.


Installing a programmable ther-mostat is an easy place to startoptimizing your energy efficiency.

One of the most common relationship problems between the buildingenvelope and HVAC is air leakage through gaps and cracks in thewalls, ducts, roof and foundation.

EHT


The holidays seem to arrive sooner every year, so there's no time like the present to organize your shopping list for friends and family. This year, consider the type of gifts that keep on giving: new tools! The EHT staff has compiled our annual list of workshop gadgets—some big,

some small—to brighten the face of your favorite DIY’er. Make your list, check it twice, and have a wonderful holiday season.


HOLIDAYGIFTS FOR THEDIY HOMEOWNER

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CHANNELLOCKPROFESSIONALSCREWDRIVERS Channellock Inc., a family-ownedand -operated hand tool manu-facturer since 1886, has intro-duced the new ProfessionalScrewdrivers, a line of slotted,Phillips, Torx and nut driversdesigned and manufactured in the U.S. to meet the needs of the professional trades andserious DIY'ers. The new line will include 46 different tool offerings, including a six-in-onemulti-bit driver designed with afour-sided, acetate handle thatdelivers greater torque than competing drivers with six- oreight-sided handles. Additionally,the new screwdriver handles are solvent-resistant, impact-resistant and superior in strength to molded designs. The precision-machined shaft and chrome-coated alloy steelblades ensure full fastenerengagement, and chrome plating protects against corrosion. Visitwww.channellock.com.

WERNER PODIUMLADDERThe Werner Podium Ladder isdesigned to provide 4X greaterwork zone than a typical step-ladder, allowing you to face any direction. One of the most significant benefits of this designis how easily it allows the user to reach traditionally difficultareas by providing greater rangeof motion, which maximizes pro-ductivity. The extended guardrailand larger platform surface alsodelivers more comfort for the pro-fessional user who is oftenrequired to stand on a ladder forprolonged periods of time. Thenew Podium guardrail uses theHolsterTop Pro design that secure-ly and conveniently organizestools and accessories at the topof the ladder. The functional topserves as a wraparound guardrailfor total freedom of movement.The Podium also features thenewly designed Edge360 bracingsystem that increases the size ofthe ladder foot pad, braces thefirst step and provides protectionat every angle. Visitus.wernerco.com.


VETO PRO PAC MC TOOL BAGVeto Pro Pac, a leader in pro-fessional-grade tool bags, haslaunched the MC, the smallestand lightest tool bag in the VetoPro Pac line. With 20 interior andexterior denier nylon pockets, theMC is 12-1/2 inches high, 10inches long and 8 inches wide—perfect for troubleshooting, diag-nostics and job-specific setups.

The MC features a lighter webbedhandle with Veto Pro Pac’s classicover-molded grip. A front storagebay holds hand tools of manysizes. The back storage bayaccommodates meters and com-pact cordless drills/drivers. VetoPro Pac’s signature heavy-duty3mm thick polypropylene basekeeps the bag dry, protected, andstable in four-season climates.

DEWALT PREMIUM TAPESDeWalt's new family of PremiumTapes, are "Guaranteed Tough"and built to take a beating onharsh jobsite conditions. The new16-, 25- and 35-ft. tape measuresare ideal for heavy-duty framingand other construction measuringtasks. The tapes feature rein-forced housing and a cast-metalimpact plate to absorb shockswhen dropped to protect internalcomponents and the end hook.Extensive rubber over-moldingcovers all contact points of thetapes for improved grip. Plus, a 13-ft. blade standout allowsunaided measuring from a dis-tance or overhead without thetapes bending or collapsing whileextended. Visit www.dewalt.com.

VAMPLIERS An extraordinary pair of pliers thatincorporates patented and award-winning technology to solve screw-extraction problems, VamPLIERSPro have uniquely designed andpatented concave jaws. The ver-tical and horizontal serrationsinside the jaws make it possible tograb onto a small stripped/rust-ed/corroded screw or rounded nutfor extraction. VamPLIERS Pro willwork on screws that have special,

tamper-proof or unique heads,such as a Torx screw. Made ofhigh-quality carbon steel, theyhave a smooth varnished finishand utilize an environmentallyfriendly elastomer for ergonomicgrips. VamPLIERS are great for professionals and DIY’ers to achieve the perfect "bite" around the screw's head. Visit www.vampiretools.com.



TREEMOTEThis holiday season, use the newTreemote to avoid crawling underor behind your Christmas tree toturn the lights on and off, whichcan be a hassle—even danger-ous. Now with Treemote's wire-less remote technology, the taskis easy, safe and convenient. The device is simple to installand easy to use. Just plug theTreemote receiver into the outletthat you want to use. Plug yourstring of lights into the receiver,and that’s it. Now with theTreemote’s Christmas tree-shaped remote you can controlyour lights from any room in thehouse. After Christmas, store itwith your decorations, or use itall year round on any hard-to-reach light or small appliance.Underwriters Laboratories-listedand FCC-compliant, the Treemotecomes with battery included.Visit www.treemote.com.

RYOBI 14" RY40511CORDLESS CHAINSAW The Ryobi 14-in. CordlessChainsaw boasts the power of a gas-driven tool by using abrushless motor for highertorque and increased chainspeed. With a 14-in. bar andchain and a 24-in. cutting capacity, its cutting speed rivalsthat of a gas chainsaw. Side-access chain tensioning and on-board tool storage offer user convenience. Other fea-tures include an automatic oilerand a variable-speed trigger. Itstarts quickly and easily, withoutthe hassle of gas and oil. TheCordless Chainsaw is powered by a 40V lithium-ion battery thatworks with any Ryobi 40V tool.Visit www.ryobitools.com.

MAKITA XSH01Z 36VCIRCULAR SAWMakita's new XSH01Z is theworld's first 7-1/4-in. circular saw powered by two 18V lithium-ion batteries, which deliver thecutting performance of a cordedsaw. The Makita-built motordelivers 4,800 RPM for fast cutting and ripping, providing up to 250 cuts per charge. The7-1/4-in. blade cuts 2-5/8 inch-es at 90 degrees, and the sawbevels 50 degrees. The L.E.D.

battery and temperature indica-tors monitor charge stats andtemperature, and a reinforcedmagnesium base ensures jobsite durability. Visit www.makitatools.com.

GENERAL CORDLESSPRECISION ENGRAVER(505)General’s Cordless PrecisionEngraver features a 3/32-in.diamond-tipped engravingbit and a 20,000-rpm motor.It is powerful enough toengrave glass, metal,ceramic, plastic and wood.The engraver’s improvedgearing boosts torque tofacilitate smoother, moreconsistent scribing.Additionally, the tool’s aluminum body offers superior durability while the unique tri-lobe ergo-nomic grip provides the ultimate in comfort andease of use. Visit www.generaltools.com.



No more makeshift tables

Easy setup and portable

Hangs on 48" centers

Great for your shop or garage

PlanstationFP_Layout 1 11/24/14 2:44 PM Page 43


GENERAL LIGHTEDPRECISIONSCREWDRIVER (75108)General’s Lighted PrecisionScrewdriver is a must-have forevery DIY toolbox. It contains aconvenient storage compartmentfor the included reversible bits,making it easy to keep all of thebits together in the handle at all

times, reducing the risk of lost ormisplaced parts. The precisionengineered Versa-Grip handle provides maximum comfort and performance, while integralLEDs shed light directly on thescrew-head work area in a 360-degree pattern. Visitwww.generaltools.com.

BOSCH VAC120HANDHELD VACUUMThe Bosch VAC120 is the com-pany's first handheld vacuum,combining compact design withbest-in-class performance. Sawshavings, dirt and dust don’tstand a chance with the 12V Max

VAC120, which features an exclu-sive Micro Filter System, based onadvanced automotive technology,to trap 98 percent of dust parti-cles (as small as 1/2 micron indiameter). Weighing just 1.55pounds and measuring 11 incheslong, the VAC120’s crevice nozzleattachment makes cleanup intight or confined spaces, such as around electrical outlets ordrains, a breeze. The flat filterdesign allows for a larger 11.8-ounce canister volume, whichmeans less frequent clean-outsand more time working. Visitwww.boschtools.com.

RYOBI P2170 HYBRID BLOWER The Ryobi Hybrid Blower provideslimitless power and mobility withtwo power sources—cordless andelectric—for versatile lawn mainte-nance. Running at 150 mph and200 cfm, the Hybrid Blower isideal for blowing dry leaves anddebris on hard surfaces. Part of

the 18V One+ system, the HybridBlower is powered by an 18V lithi-um-ion battery that works with anyRyobi 18V tool. Visitwww.ryobitools.com.

GENERAL CIRCUITBREAKER FINDER (BF20)General’s Circuit Breaker Finderincludes a Non-Contact VoltDetector and GFCI Outlet Checker,providing a safe way to determinewhether a line, cable or 110VACoutlet is “hot” (energized). Thetool automatically locates thebreaker or fuse associated with

any 110-volt outlet without trip-ping the breaker or blowing thefuse. It has the ability to indicatefive common outlet wiring faults inGFCI and non-GFCI outlets, and itcan verify the operation of anyGFCI circuits interrupting power.Visit www.generaltools.com.

HYDE 17-IN-1 PAINTER'S TOOLCarrying tools around the house—or worse yet, struggling to findtools on a work site—can reallyslow things down. Eliminate thehassle with the new Hyde 17-in-1Painter’s Tool. Made from durable.075-in. thick carbon steel, Hyde’snewest tool combines the compa-ny’s trademark high-quality, light-weight design with with featuresthat are especially helpful forpainting, from the wrenches youneed to connect an airless sprayhose to regular and mini-rollercleaners. The 17 uses: 1. scrape paint, 2. spread compound, 3. open cracks, 4. pull nails, 5. set nails, 6. open cans, 7. open bottles,



8. clean regular rollers, and 9.clean mini rollers. The 10th and11th use are the 3/4- and 11/16-in. wrenches you need to connectyour whip hose to both your spraygun and your main airless hose.For the other six uses, just look to the handle and underneath the Hammer Head end. Numbers11-14 consist of four differentscrewdriver bits that are securelystored within the handle andinsert into the handle end forquick, easy use. Also hiddenbeneath the Hammer Head end is a tool that can be used aseither a scribe or a nail set. Visit www.hydetools.com.

IRWIN VISE-GRIP PLIERSWITH POWERSLOTIrwin Tools has expanded the Vise-Grip category with a variety of new cutting pliers that providesuperior comfort, durability andcutting power. The new line fea-tures Max Leverage Diagonal

Cutting Pliers and End CuttingPliers, which are equipped withPowerSlot Technology for twice thecutting power and half the effort.The ErgoMulti Long Nose Pliersare designed with an angled headfor reduced wrist strain. The com-plete range of new products alsoincludes Lineman’s Pliers, LongNose Pliers, Bent Nose Pliers anda patented Performance Lanyardsystem. Visit www.irwin.com.

HYDE QUICKLY CLEAN GLOVEPriced at a reasonable $5, apatented weave turns this “miracleglove” into an all-purpose scrubber

that takes oil paint, dirt, greaseand grime off just about anythingin seconds – without using chemi-cals! Slip one on and dip it in mildsoapy water to clean everythingfrom your camper and ATV to youroven, shower, painting tools andmore. Grease on your hands?Clean them fast with no harshcleansers or chemicals required.Visit www. hydetools.com.

POWERCUBEOften it's difficult to access a near-by available power outlet to chargeyour tool batteries, notebook or cellphone. The PowerCube allows youto mount multiple power socketswhere it's most convenient. Thenumber of outlets can be expandedaccording to your needs, creatinga tailored power source withinreach. The PowerCube is modular:you can create the setup you preferby adding more PowerCubes to thePowerCube Extended mounted onyour desktop. The Extended ver-sions of the PowerCube come witha mounting dock, enabling you tomount it anywhere, includingup-side-down underneath your desk,or on a wall. Plus, it's easy to relo-cate with removable tape. Eachplug connects to a different side of the PowerCube so that plugscan't obstruct each other. The USB-versions of the PowerCubecome with powered dual USB ports, each unit is tested up to 15A (the industry standard) andalso contains a resettable fuse.Visit powercube-usa.com. EHT


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StoneFeatureEDIT_Layout 1 11/24/14 2:34 PM Page 48


ARTIFICIALSTONEUP CLOSE

Lightweight and easy to install,artificial stone is a popularalternative building material.

By Monte Burch

When the first caveman rolled a stone in front of his caveto keep out the animals, stone became a building mate-rial. Stone has continued to be a popular construction

material throughout the ages, and is just as popular today. Thesedays, however, artificial stone has become increasingly popular.Weight is one reason. Less dense and lighter in weight than nat-ural stone, manufactured stone is easier to handle, store andinstall. Less weight also means artificial stone can be applied inmore areas, and with less support, than would be required fornatural stone. Yet, the material has all the beauty of naturalstone.

The selection of artificial stone styles is also greater than nat-ural stone on a local basis. Artificial stone allows you to utilizestyles not commonly found all across the country. These includepolished river rock, fieldstone, ledgerock and even simulatedquarried stone. The latter is much more economical than naturalquarried stone. In fact, selection of the style and color can beconfusing with all the possibilities available. The artificial stonebeing shown in this article is Dutch Quality Stone, in fieldstonestyle (www.dutchqualitystone.com).

In the project detailed in this article, a fireplace with chimneywas constructed of concrete block. The fireplace was faced withnatural fieldstone, but not enough was available for the tall, twoand half-story chimney. Artificial fieldstone was selected tomatch the fireplace stone. The homeowners added a few natural


stones to help blend the chimneywith the fireplace. Before youchoose the product and decide toinstall the stone, check out thevarious products available, as wellas the various manufacturer’sinstallation manuals available.

As with natural stone, the instal-lation technique is fairly simple,but hard work. One advantage isyou can work a little at a time,which is actually the best tactic for most installations. Installingartificial stone is a lot of fun andallows you to be really creative,resulting in a beautiful projectyou’ll not only be proud to showoff, but will add value to yourhome.

TOOLS & MATERIALSYou will need a few masonry

tools, including safety glasses,wheelbarrow, mixing hoe, hockand mason’s trowels. The hock isto hold the mortar, but a plasticbucket can be used to transportand hold the mortar if you’re work-ing on a scaffold and ladder for ahigh project such as the chimney.You will also need a metal jointingtool (a wooden dowel, or betteryet, a large, round-headed bolt), a grout bag and whisk broom.

Several plastic buckets and softrags are also handy. And you’llneed a tape measure, level andother basic woodworking tools.

Artificial stone can be cut withmasonry wide-mouth nippers, ahatchet, mason’s chisel and ham-mer, a masonry cut-off saw, orusing a masonry blade in an anglegrinder. Make sure you wear eyeprotection, and for the latter twoyou’ll also need a dust mask. Allcutting chores should be done outside.

After determining the style andtype of stone desired, the nextstep is to estimate the amount ofmaterials needed. Artificial stonetypically comes in boxes of flatsand corners. The latter are L-shaped to wrap around outsidecorners and create the illusion offull stones. Measure the lengthand width of the project and multi-ply the measurement to determinethe square footage. Then measurethe linear feet of the outside cor-ners. You will also need to knowthe square footage of the cornerpieces, according to the specificmanufacturer. For example, onelinear foot of Owens CorningCultured Stone corner piece cov-ers 3/4 of a square foot of flatarea (www.culturedstone.com), whereas one linear foot of DutchQuality Stone covers 1/2 squarefoot. Subtract the flat area of thecorners from the square footage of the flats required. Subtract the square footage of any doors,windows and other openings. It’s a good idea to add about 10 percent extra materials for cutting, trimming and fitting. It’salso important to know if the style chosen is sold based on the coverage with a standard 1/2-inch mortar joint, or tight-fitted such as ledgerock. In addition to the stone you’ll needType N Mortar, mortar color

(if desired), aggregates (sand) or premixed Type N mortar andpotable water.

Artificial stone may be appliedto any number of interior or exteri-or surfaces. A weather-resistantbarrier must be used on all exteri-or and interior mortar applications,except for those over masonry andconcrete. Make sure you followlocal building code requirementsfor installation of the materials,including the waterproof barrier. If installing on surfaces other thanmasonry or concrete, a mesh ormetal lath must be applied over


Even artificial stone is cumber-some, and you will also be totingand working with mortar. Sturdyscaffolding is necessary for highjobs such as this chimney.

The product chosen for this chim-ney project is Dutch Quality Stonein Pennsylvania Field Stone tomatch the natural stone fireplace.

The proper mortar mix is extreme-ly important for a good masonryjob. If using mortar components,first measure out and mix the drymaterials. Then add water a littleat a time, mixing the dry materialsinto the water and wet mix. Awheelbarrow and mason’s hoecan be used.



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the water barrier. All exterior sur-faces must have flashing installedat water entrances, and the fin-ished edge of applied stone mustbe a minimum of 4 inches abovean earth grade or 2 inches aboveconcrete. Before applying thestones, read and make sure you

follow all of the manufacturer’sinstallation instructions.

INSTALLATION BASICSYes, there is an art to laying

stone, whether natural or artificial.Artificial stone commonly comesboxed, and the first step is to layout the stones so you can readilysee all the sizes, shapes and col-ors. In most instances you’ll wantto lay the stones with a variety ofsizes and colors in the overalldesign. Use small stones nearlarge ones, varying the texturesand sizes. Get everything ready,including tools, ladders and othersupplies.

One of the most important keysto any type of masonry job is prop-erly mixing the mortar. You canuse premixed mortar, but on larger

jobs individual components maybe the best choice. The propor-tions of a standard mortar mix iseither Portland Cement or BlendedCement and hydrated lime, mixedone part to 4-1/2 to 6 parts aggre-gate. An easier mix is one partType N Masonry Cement to 2-1/2to 3 parts aggregate. I normallysimply count shovels of the latter, using a masonry shovel. Don’t mixmore mortar than you can use in30 to 45 minutes. I normally useone shovel of Type N MortarCement to three shovels of sand.If you have help, you might doublethis mix. The materials are placedin a wheelbarrow and thoroughlymixed while dry using a masonryhoe, which has holes in it to allow


The mortar consistency should bestiff enough that the mortar won’tslump back down when pulled upwith the hoe, yet not too dry andcrumbly or soupy.

A Crete Sheet, a heavy-duty plastic sheet with handles, makesmixing small mortar batches quickand easy.

Alternate lifting the handles to mixthe materials. Cleanup is also fastand easy.

In many instances you’ll need toadd mortar color to the mortarmix.

Many artificial stone productscome with “corners” consisting ofa short and long leg. When posi-tioned, these give the appearanceof a full stone used for the corner.


Artificial stones also come as“flats,” and it’s important tospread out all the stones for the project so you have a goodvariety to pick from as you set the stones in place.

Before setting a stone, lay it dry and check it for fit.


for quicker and easier mixing of the materials.Once the dry material is evenly

mixed, add the water a little at atime. If using mortar color, add theproper amount of mortar color tothe first batch of water and thor-oughly mix. Then add this to the drymix. Using the hoe, incorporate thewater into a bit of the dry mix untilthoroughly blended. Then eitheradd more water or pull in more ofthe dry mix with the hoe and con-tinue mixing until the entire batchis evenly mixed. The proper amountof water is important. Too littlewater and the mortar will be crum-bly and dry. Too much water andthe mix will be soupy, messy and

won’t hold the stones properly. Aproper mix will be firm, yet moist. Itwill stay when pulled up with thehoe and will not slump down. Or,pick up the mortar with a troweland turn the trowel sideways. Themortar should not slide or run off.Allow the mortar mix to set forabout 10 minutes before use.Now you’re ready to apply the

mortar and set the stones. Themortar and stone pieces can beapplied in two methods. In someinstances the mortar and stonescan be applied from the top down,and this does help in keeping theset stones clean. Most of us lessexperienced masons, however, willhave better luck setting stonesfrom the bottom up. This is par-ticularly so with corner stones. If installing over metal lath, use a

mason’s trowel to apply the mortarin a 1/2- to 3/4-inch thick layer“scratch” coat. It’s important not tospread too much mortar or it mayset up before you can apply thestones. On smooth masonry sur-faces, such as concrete or concreteblocks, the mortar will have thefrustrating tendency to slump downand fall off. One tactic is to flingsmall handfuls of mortar onto thesurface, then trowel smooth toobtain the thickness needed. It’smessy, but it works. The easiest


Realstone Systems takes a unique approach to the installation of natural stone veneer. Hand-selected split stones are adhered together to form standardized modular panels and flooring mats. This allows for streamlined installation of dry-stacked stone veneer for both vertical and horizontal applications. Realstone is ideal for any interior or exterior project that you can imagine. Realstone is a natural stone alternative to composite/faux stone products. The system’s modular design makes installation easier than using individual pieces because you can cover a greater surface area in much less time. This reduces cost, waste and labor. Plus, the manufacturer’s quality-control managers approve each piece before it is packaged for shipping to ensure a striking appearance to any application. Realstone is a green product—sustainable, natural, and produced using reclaimed stone and VOC-free adhesive. Learn more at www.realstonesystems.com.

EASY INSTALLATION FOR GENUINE STONE

Mortar can be applied in severalways. A “scratch coat” or thin layercan first be applied with a masontrowel to some surfaces. This canalso be used as the setting mor-tar in some instances.

The stone is set in this mortar. Inmost instances it’s easiest to setthe stones from the bottom up,although this method requiresmore cleanup.

Gently wiggle to force some mor-tar out around the edges. Do notapply force or you will push toomuch mortar from behind thestone causing it to loosen.


method is to use a mason’s trow-el to “butter” the back of thestone with mortar and then pressthe stone in place. It’s importantto have complete coveragebetween the mortar bed and theback surface of the stone. Withthe mortar and/or stone in place, gently press the selected stoneagainst and into the mortar.Wiggle the stone slightly to force abit of mortar out around theedges of the stone. Don’t presstoo hard or you’ll push the mortarout from behind the stone. Regardless of the method

used, it takes a bit of practice.Joint width in many cases shouldaverage about 1/2 inch. This will,

of course, vary with the style ofstone used. Fieldstone looks bet-ter with more variance, and it’salso harder to precisely fit theseshapes. A “looser” look has amore natural appearance. Onsome styles, however, it’s impor-tant to keep mortar joints as consistent as possible. Fit largerpieces first, and then fit in small-er pieces.You may need to cut some

stones to fit, especially with stylesother than fieldstone. Stones canbe cut using wide-mouthed nip-pers, or a hatchet. A masonryblade in an angle grinder can also be used. Or use a poweredmason’s cut-off saw. Always wearsafety glasses and a dust mask.Place mortar on the cut edges and, if possible, position the cutedges so they won’t be visible, forinstance above or below eye-level. For materials such as ledge-

stone, the stones are fit tightlytogether. If laying such a tight-fit-ting style, the scratch coat mustbe completely covered with a bedof mortar, not only to conceal thescratch coat, but to prevent creat-ing open spaces that can trapwater. Try not to get mortar on the front surface of the stones.Unlike real stone, artificial stoneis painted and abrasive methodsnormally used to remove mortarcould remove the paint.

Allow the smears or clumps ofmortar to dry, and then use awhisk broom to gently brush offthe mortar. In hot or dry weather,moisten the back of each stonewith a fine spray of water or a wet brush. If installing over con-crete, masonry or a scratch coat,dampen the area before applyingthe mortar. If corner stones areused, such as on the chimneyshown, apply them first. Be sure


Another method, and a less messymethod, is to “butter” the back ofthe stones with mortar using atrowel.

Then set the mortar stones inplace. In hot weather, dampen thesetting surface and the back ofthe stone with a light spray ofwater.


Keep a bucket of water andclean rags on hand to wash mor-tar off your hands and help keepthe stone surfaces clean.

Corners are set first.

The short and long legs of thecorners should alternate as theyare set.


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to alternate the faces of the cor-ner stones with the long andshort legs running opposite direc-tions. After the corner stones areapplied, work toward the centerof the wall with the flat stones.

FINISHING TOUCHESAllow the mortar to set until

you can just create a thumb-printwith some pressure. The time willvary according to weather andtemperature conditions. Use ajointing tool, or the round head of a bolt, to scrape away sharpedges and round the inside ofthe joint. Do not remove toomuch mortar, nor undercut thestones. You may also need to addmortar to the joints, especially if

you have applied the stones withmortar on their backs. A mortarbag, similar to a cake-decoratingbag, is used to inject mortar intothe joints. Once the mortar jointshave set sufficiently, use a brushor whisk broom to remove excessmortar. In most cases watershould not be used to removemortar as it can cause staining ofthe surface. Do not use powerwashing or wire-brushes forcleaning. Different styles of stones also

require some additional installa-tion techniques. Styles such asquarried stones require level,plumb and precisely-even joint

lines. Long, rectangular pieceslook best laid horizontally. Riverrock styles should not be cut ifpossible to maintain a naturallook. Ledgestone styles shouldbe laid as tightly as possible, andjoints as deeply as possible, butnot exposing the scratch coat orback edges of the stones. Mortarcan also be tinted to match the



Artificial stone can be cut usingseveral methods. A masonry bladein an angle grinder can be usedto cut or score the stone.

An axe, wide-mouth nippers ormason’s hammer and/or chiselcan also be used to finish thescore, or to cut the stone. Weareye protection and a dust mask.

Make sure all water entranceareas are properly flashed.

Mortar joints can be filled with agrout bag. Use a fairly soupy mix.

Force the mortar into the joints.

A jointing tool or round-headedbolt can be used to scrape outexcess mortar. Then use a whiskbroom to clean up loosened mortar and splatters.



Shown is the completed project.

stones to help con-ceal the joints. Inaddition to the corner and flat stones,a wide variety of finish stones areavailable including: window and doortrim, keystones, and even receptacle,light and water hydrant blocks withopenings for these utilities.

With a little practice and your firstproject, you’ll probably be looking forother projects for this fun and beautifulbuilding material. EHT


MATERIAL MARKET

Whether you’re orderingwindows for a new homeor considering replacing

windows in an existing house,sooner or later you’re going tohave to make a decision on grids.Think it’s a no-brainer? Thinkagain. There are some definiteconsiderations that should betaken into account when deter-mining the configuration, color and style for window grids.

Decisions you make on gridscan positively (or negatively) affectthe overall look on both thehome’s exterior and interior. Forolder homes, you may need tocapture the historic character of the home’s style with grids fashioned to complement a

previous era. For newer homes,you’ll want to consider if the window grids should be a designaccent for the home, pull-togetherthe architectural theme of thehouse and/or provide continuity ofadjoining windows within a roomor from one room to another.

“Grids can be considered the‘cherry on top of the sundae’ forwindows in the home,” accordingto the experts at SimontonWindows. “Anyone can go withclear glass windows and eliminategrid decisions by ordering plainglass. However, those people maysacrifice style and an importantdesign detail on the home.

“For those individuals who wantgrids on their windows, the key

elements are to achieve balancewith the grids and to select gridpatterns that are aesthetically pleas-ing. Fortunately there are sometips to help even a novice correctlyspecify window grids.”

TIPS FOR SUCCESSSimonton offers these sugges-

tions for understanding grids andhow to specify them for windows:

Tip #1 – Know where the gridsare located. Different windowmanufacturers attach grids in different ways to a window. Themost popular ways are to placethe grids between the panes ofglass (which eliminates cleaninghassles), to affix the grids on topof the glass with an adhesive, or tohave snap-in grids that are slippedinto grooves at the top and bottomof the units.

Tip #2 – Consider the size ofthe window. If a window looks toolarge for a room or you want toaccent the unit, it’s time to thinkabout grids. Basically, grids (whichcan sometimes be called grills,grilles or muntins) divide a largewindow into smaller viewing units,called “lites.”

Tip #3 – Know your terms.Vertical grids go in an “up anddown” direction on the glass of thewindow. Horizontal grids go “sideto side” on the glass. You don’tnecessarily need to have both vertical and horizontal grids in awindow. Also, remember that themeeting rail (the horizontal portionof a Double or Single Hung windowwhere the sashes come together)

Grid Guidelines for a Great LookSpecifying Aesthetically Pleasing Grids for Windows


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also provides a visual break in the lines of the window—basicallybetween the top and bottom sash.This meeting rail acts as a horizon-tal grid in these types of windows.

Tip #4 – Understand your gridlocations. Grids are defined withinthe sash of a window. For exam-ple, a Casement window has onlyone sash, while a Double Hungwindow has both a top and bottomsash. On the Double Hung, youmay choose to have grids on bothsash, on the top sash only, or onthe bottom sash and not the top.

Tip #5 – Think of the wholehouse. Generally, grid patternsshould match in all the windowson the same floor and on thesame side of the house. This way,when you view the home from theexterior, you have a unified look.

Tip #6 – Visualize a grid. Take asheet of notebook paper and bendit in half. The resulting size showsthe average size of glass surround-ed by grids. Lites in grid patternsshould not generally be smallerthan 8 inches in width and 6 inch-es in height. The larger the window

size, the more “lites” of glass canbe created using grids.The “Rule of Rectangles” is good

to keep in mind when determininggrid configurations. This rule ofthumb generally states that “less is best” and that grids should beproportional to a window’s size.Some guidelines for the best matches for window grids are:

Square window = Square pattern

Rectangular window =Rectangular pattern

As a cautionary warning, makesure to use the proper terminologywhen ordering window grids.Someone who has been in thewindow business may describe apattern showing six lites of glasson the top of a double hung andsix lites of glass on the bottom asa “six over six” window. However,in today’s window ordering system,this description would result in achecker box look that creates 36small lites on the top of the sashand 36 small lites on the bottomof the glass! The correct way tospecify this order would be to say“1V2H (All).” This indicates that

you want one vertical grid and twohorizontal grids on both of thesash, which would create a “sixover six” look on the window.

ALL ABOUT STYLEGrids themselves can be thin,

flat, sculptured, grooved or evenround. Different window manufac-turers offer a variety of selections. Ingeneral, the more popular and com-mon grids in a home are either flatgrids or sculptured grids.Once the grid style itself has

been determined, the next step isto decide on the configuration ofthe grids. A large assortment ofpatterns exists that complementthe style of most homes. The mostcommon style of grid pattern is aColonial Square pattern with anequal number of square or rectan-gle grids on both the top and bot-tom of the window’s sash.A variation of the Colonial

Square is the Cross Square. Thissimple style involves one verticaland one horizontal grid on the tophalf of a sash, creating a crosseffect. For a Victorian style home,a Victorian grid style may workbest. This involves one horizontalgrid at the uppermost area of thewindow sash separated by severalshort vertical grids.With today’s keen interest in

Arts and Crafts style homes, boththe Perimeter and Prairie style win-dow grids have seen a growth inpopularity. Both feature gridsaround the perimeter of the win-dow intersecting at the top andbottom. For the Perimeter style, thegrid encompasses the full windowunit; for the Prairie style the gridencompasses each sash.For a striking accent window or

to complement an English Tudorstyle of home, a Diamond grid win-dow is ideal. The grids are placedon an angle, to simulate diamondpatterns on the entire surface of the window.


MATERIAL MARKET


HELPFUL HINTSWith years of experience behind

them, the customer service represen-tatives at Simonton Windows offer thefollowing helpful hints for determiningwhere grids will go in a window andhow they’ll look:

Hint #1 – Make a mock-up. Beforeordering grids, consider making amock-up by applying masking tape tothe glass of the windows where youthink you’d like to have the grids. Thisway you can see where the grids wouldbe and can make changes. Make sureto use tan masking tape. If you useblue painter’s tape, the blue color willblend with the sky and you won’t getthe full impact of the grids.

Hint #2 – Go with the flow. If youalready have a grid pattern establishedin the home and you’re just replacinga few windows, continue with the exist-ing grid pattern to maintain overall eyeappeal for the home.

Hint #3 – Picture windows havespecial needs. If you have a picturewindow that showcases a spectacularview, consider leaving it without anygrids. This works especially well if youhave side windows with grids flankingthe Picture window.

Hint #4 – Check out the neighbor-hood. Drive around and look at differ-ent windows in the homes of yourneighbors. This can help you deter-mine the difference grids can make tothe overall appearance of a home andhow you like different styles of grids.

Hint #5 – Match or contrast. Youmay want to either match the color ofthe grids to the frame of the windowfor a unified look, or boldly select agrid that strikingly contrasts the frame.Ask the window manufacturer you’repurchasing from what options exist.Many companies have standard colorgrids along with woodgrain and metal-lic options.


EHT


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