exzxÇvç Ytá{|ÉÇ |Ç j|ÇàxÜlinoreburkard.com/RegencyFashioninWinter.pdf · Brought to you by...

Brought to you by Inspirational Romance Author Linore Rose Burkard.

exzxÇvç Ytá{|ÉÇ |Ç j|ÇàxÜexzxÇvç Ytá{|ÉÇ |Ç j|ÇàxÜexzxÇvç Ytá{|ÉÇ |Ç j|ÇàxÜexzxÇvç Ytá{|ÉÇ |Ç j|ÇàxÜ Pelisses, spencers, cloaks, redingotes: What did a lady

wear for the colder months during the Regency?

Step inside the pages of this little ebook and you’ll get an

idea. This is not a treatise or costume reference book,

mind you, but an entertaining look at fashions of

yesteryear. All in all, I think it was more difficult to stay

warmer for women than men during the regency (when

outdoors) and as the century wore on, women’s clothing

became smarter and more protective. But don’t take my

word for it: Take a peek and see for yourself!

Above: A fine dress for colder weather. Notice the velvety

quality of the fabric. No doubt it was heavy, but the short

sleeves and low bodice explains the warm shawl or cloak which

you can see has been artfully allowed to drape around her for

the portrait. I like the furry edging on the shawl (or cloak?). The

pillow may have been to supply greater warmth for her feet

while she sat for the portrait.

Left: Not a winter dress particularly, but the shawl suggests

chillier weather. Shawls were not just accessories to look

pretty or complement an outfit—they were truly necessary for

comfort. During the day, women could wear long-sleeved

garments which provided greater warmth, but if they went

anywhere in the evening where they would be among company,

short sleeves were generally the rule.


Right: A daytime outfit (painted after the regency, I

believe) but showing that even with long sleeves, a shawl

or cloak was still a comfort to have on hand. The lady has

removed her bonnet, however, which suggests the day

was warmer than she expected.

Left:

Walking Costume,

1815. Doesn’t appear particularly warm, and was

probably suitable only for spring or early autumn.

Right:

We usually see the oft-

depicted Mademoiselle

Recamier when she is

young (and scantily clad);

here, she is older, and

dressed quite warmly.

High ruff on the neck, a

sturdy cap, a shawl and

warm material for her

dress all infer that this

portrait was done during

winter. The dress sleeves

look very substantial, almost quilted in their effect.

(puffy). Overall, a nice comfortable ensemble for

colder days.


Long sleeves, one or more petticoats, stockings, a shawl and scarf (and bonnet) do not

seem

to

suffice

for this

young

woman. She also wears gloves and flimsy shoes (they even called them “slippers”)’ as

well as “ice skates.” The gentleman, to my eyes, looks warmer here, as ever.


Left:

The costume on this young

lady lacks only the scarf of

her counterpart, above, for

warmth; and her shawl is

light and open, suggesting

milder weather. If twelve

years have gone by

(suggested by the earlier

date on the pic, above), it is

surprising how similarly the

women are dressed.

Right: 19th Century shoes. Sturdier than the “slippers”

favored for evening wear during the Regency.


Left:

1817 Walking Dress.

Much more sensible and

warmer than what we’ve

seen, previously.


The child, above, in the confectioner’s shop, gets to wear pantalettes. Ladies out of the

school room had to make do with stockings, though in winter these would be woolen.


Right: No year is given,

unfortunately, but this costume is

designed for colder seasons.

Nevertheless, the area around the

ankles and lower legs must have

been chilly.

Love that lush scarf, and tiny

matching reticule!

Below: A woman who liked ruffles

and bows, to be sure! She looks

warm, however, and sports one of

the fanciest caps I’ve seen.

Right: 1833. After the death of George IV, and not

regency, but still four years preceding Victoria. The

clothing is much sturdier and warmer looking. In

winter, an overcoat or heavy shawl would go over

the gowns.


Heartening to see that here, in

November 1816 “Dinner Dress”

includes a long sleeved spencer over

the gown. The matching head-dress

no doubt helped keep its wearer warm

as well.

The woman also wears buff-yellow

colored gloves. (But did she eat with

them on? I doubt it!)

Below: In the absence of a pelisse

or redingote, women wore shawls.


Both women are wearing

spencers. The dark red on the

left woman looks warmer, while

the one on the left is highly

adorned.To make up for short

sleeves, perhaps, she wears

long gloves and carries a wide

scarf or shawl.

(The writing says “Dame in

Spencer.”)

Left: The flimsy gown is no match for the weather. (Most

women of the day would have found this highly mortifying.)

Caption: “Ah, such wind!”


Later Regency: On the right, a higher hemline and lower waist is an indication of being

later in the Regency, as well as the highly adorned “hems”.

Below left: For once, a really warm cloak! In Before the Season Ends, Miss Ariana

Forsythe sports a similar design, a pelisse that is “ermine lined and edged, worth every

shilling,” according to her aunt, Mrs. Bentley.

Below, right: Much earlier, 1799. Both

gowns have an overdress making them

unusually sturdy.

Notice

that the

hems

fall to

the

ground.


Above, right, and below:

Quintessential Regency winter

wear—not nearly as effective at

protecting a lady from the elements

as the style on the left. The

redingote on the ladies on the right (above,

right, and right) happen to be red, but they

could be any colour.

.


An Idealized Winter Scene

Here we have winter outdoors and in.

Above, a painting by Frank Dadd, gives us

an affectionate, idealized glimpse into the

past.

Right: “Winter”

On the right “Winter,” is an old print, which shows, remarkably, an entire family

huddling around the fire in one room, while allowing the elder son (or daughter)

the use of the other room to dance and frolic with friends.

Now take a

look at an

illustration

from 1890,

and contrast

the outerwear

of the women

to what we

have seen on

Regency

women:

Heavy fur

coats, muffs,

& high collars. It’s about time! (Even Victorian women had better outerwear than

regencians, however.)


Here are a few illustrations of men from the day. Having the advantage of shirts and

voluminous cravats that kept the upper chest and neck covered was an advantage during

the colder months. Women could easily do this during the day, (wear high-collared

gowns, for instance) but evening wear required a lower-cut bodice. Additionally, the

popularity of leather or deerskin breeches and pantaloons was superior for leg warmth

say, than stockings, and men could also wear woolens beneath their attire.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this small glimpse into

regency winter wear! Below, a few terms to make

sure you’ve got your clothing right:

Pelisse—a long outer garment, usually lined or edged with fur.

Redingote-- a long, unlined, lightweight coat, open down the front,

worn by women.

Cloak—a loose outer garment. In Georgian days, cloaks were often hooded;

Cape—a Sleeveless garment, usually hanging over the shoulders and back, and tied at the

neck.

Mantle—Similar to a cape but shorter. A winter mantle is seen on pg. 11, bottom.

Spencer—a short, tight-fitting garment, often made to match a gown; removable, with long

sleeves. There were spencers for men as well as women.

Stole--a woman's shoulder scarf of fur, marabou, silk, or other material. Also called a tippet.


Pattens—For the feet during rainy or snowy weather, pattens were protective overshoes worn

over one’s shoes. Jane Austen wrote of the “ceaseless click of pattens” in Bath, England. .

Half-boots-Still popular today, a boot extending just above the ankle.

Muff—a case for the hands covered with fur or other soft material, for women and girls.

Other Accessories: Umbrella, Reticule, Scarf or boa, Shawl and (of course) gloves.

Two more male outdoor illustrations.

Morning dress for women (above) was conducive to warmth and comfort.

Linore Rose Burkard writes Inspirational Romance for the Jane Austen Soul. Her characters take you back in time to experience life and love during the Regency England era (circa 1800 – 1830). Ms. Burkard’s novels include Before the Season Ends, The House on Grosvenor Square, and, The Country House Courtship. Her stories blend Christian faith and romance with well-researched details from the Regency period.

Romance for the Jane Austen Soul: Experience a romantic age, where manners and morals are timeless; and happy endings are always possible. For more information, visit: www.LinoreRoseBurkard.com

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