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Page 1: f scanning our dynamic list of the top brews of 2010 tells you … · 2017. 12. 24. · opaque, black brew provide intense aromas of campfire with nuances of sweet spice and burnt
Page 2: f scanning our dynamic list of the top brews of 2010 tells you … · 2017. 12. 24. · opaque, black brew provide intense aromas of campfire with nuances of sweet spice and burnt

W i n e M a g . c o m | 6 1

f scanning our dynamic list of the top brews of 2010 tells you anything, it’s that the domestic craft beer movement is in full swing. The majority of beers submitted in 2010were domestic selections, with a handful of European and South American samples. As aresult, you’ll see the majority of the top 25 hailing from the States. This doesn’t mean thatthere aren’t fabulous beers from around the world, or that these 25 are the best brews outthere; it’s just an indication of the geographic distribution of beers reviewed this year.

Within the limits of what was tasted over the past year, we’ve tried to include beers that not only represent different countriesand regions, but also a variety of styles. We had some killer categories this year (Stout, IPA, Barleywine, just to name a few) thatracked up some truly outstanding scores, but not all of those top-scoring beers will appear in this list in the interest of fairly repre-

senting the diversity that exists in the beer world today. We also went beyond simple evaluation of numeric scores and pricing and also consideredavailability, buzz and balance. This year’s number one beer is a perfect example, combining high quality (96 points) with reasonable price and avail-ability ($8/750 ml, available year round). Adding to its intrigue is the producer—a respected and established Belgian-style-focused brewery thathas put their own spin on classic styles while pushing the boundaries of traditional techniques.

Hoist your steins and turn the page to discover the best that this year’s reviews had to offer. Prost!

Best Beers Reviewed this YearBY LAUREN BUZZEO PHOTO JON VAN GORDER

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96 Allagash Black (Belgian StyleStout; Allagash Brewing, ME);

7.5% abv, $8/750 ml. Dark mahogany colorin the glass with glimmers of garnet when heldup to the light. Pours with a fluffy cream-coloredhead that lingers and leaves gorgeous sticky lacing behind when it finally falls. Cigar box,roasted malt, molasses, pine tar, clove, nutmegand sweet spice flood the nose and palate. Themouth is medium weight, not too overpowering,with a strong wave of flavors following each swal-low. Rich, roasty and immensely satisfying; alsosurprisingly easy to drink. Best Buy.

94 Deschutes Hop in the Dark Cas-cadian Dark Ale (American-Style

India Black Ale; Deschutes Brewery, OR);6.5%, $5/22 oz. Pours a dense near-blackcolor with a little transparency around the edgesand a chocolate-colored head. The nose is loadedwith pine-resin hops along with notes of maple

syrup, milk chocolate and spiced soft caramelsquares. The mouth is big, full and roasty with aton of rich malt and biscuit flavors followed by atouch of hop bitterness coming through on thefinish. Very tasty and attractive, with the playfulbalance of the roasted malt flavors and vibranthop citrus and astringency keeping things livelyand interesting. Tons of roasted arabica beansand fudgy brownie unfold on the long finish.

96 Uinta Brewing Uinta CockeyedCooper Bourbon Barrel Barley

Wine Ale (Oak Aged American Barley-wine; Uinta Brewing, UT); 11.1% abv,$13/750 ml. This is part of Uinta’s CrookedLine, and will certainly leave you a bit twisted.The problem is, this beer is so well balanced andeasy to drink that you might do just that withouteven realizing. Dark mahogany in color withcaramel and dried fruit aromas along with notesof floral hops, toasted malts and sweet woodlaced with vanilla. It’s surprisingly lively in themouth with medium carbonation lifting thecaramel malt and roasted, nutty flavors. Thesweet oak and Bourbon spice really shinethrough on the finish, lingering endlessly.

96 Russian River Temptation BlondeAle Aged in Oak Barrels (Ameri-

can Wild Ale; Russian River Brewing Co,CA); 7.25% abv, $12/375 ml. A Belgian-style Blonde Ale aged in French Chardonnaybarrels with Brettanomyces for 12 months.Slightly hazy gold color with a pillowy white headand good retention. Wild citrus and hay notesdominate the bouquet with accents of barnyardand sour green grape. The mouth is full andcreamy but acidic and lively, like a fine Cham-pagne. Tart citrus and green gooseberry flavors

flood the palate with a touch of ripe white cran-berry lingering through the long finish. Refresh-ing, vibrant and beautifully balanced.

96 Southern Tier Mokah Imperial(American Double/Imperial Stout;

Southern Tier Brewing, NY); 11.0% abv,$10/22 oz. So enticing and delicious, you couldjust stick your nose in a glass of this for hourswith a silly grin on your face the whole time.Intense mocha aromas coupled with chocolateice cream, soft molasses and French toast transi-tion to more of the same in the mouth, which isso insanely creamy and fulfilling like carbonatedYoo-hoo. Roasted cocoa nibs, espresso andKahlúa flavors add complexity. The finish is end-less with a touch of woody bitterness and a slightresiny texture. Best Buy.

94 V ic tory P r ima P i l s (GermanPilsener; Victory Brewing Com-

pany, PA); 5.3% abv, $10/6 pack. One ofAmerica’s most cherished and sought-after pilsners, this is a terrific example of an Americanpils that’s sure to please. The hops are big andfloral on the nose, with more biscuity malt in themouth playing alongside the notes of fresh citrus.Full and creamy with moderate carbonation andlow alcohol, a soft bitterness follows through thelong finish and closes on a sweet hop-oil note. Anexcellent companion to food, though certainlyenjoyable all on its own as well.

93 Ayinger Ur-Weisse AuthenticBavarian Dunkel Weizen (Dunkel-

weizen; Brauerei Aying, Germany);5.8%, $4/500 ml. A hazy, watered-down cof-fee with cream color in the glass and a hugefluffy head that lingers. Strong, raw-dough,yeasty aromas and fresh banana mingle withclove and a hint of caramel sauce in the nose.Full bodied and highly carbonated with the samearomas carrying through to the palate withbanana peel and bubble gum on the end. Thelingering finish is reminiscent of baked appleswith brown sugar and a rich, malty sweetness.Flavorful, well-balanced and easy to enjoy.

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93 Avery duganA IPA (American Dou-ble/Imperial IPA; Avery Brewing,

CO); 8.5% abv, $7/22 oz. You’re fairly warnedon this one, with the label reading, “Lupulin Rap-ture Incarnate! As fervent devotees of hops, wefound ourselves on a quest to create a transcen-dental IPA capable of quenching our voraciouslupulin desire.” Strong aromas of pine, grapefruitand pineapple citrus abound, followed by a hint oftropical stone fruit on deep inhalation. The mouth-feel is full and slightly oily, and the flavors loadedwith hop resin and pine sap. Even though it’splenty bitter at 93 IBUs, there’s a good malt back-bone supporting the intense hop bitterness.

95 Stone Imperial Russian Stout (Russ-ian Imperial Stout; Stone Brewing,

CA); 10.5% abv, $7/22 oz. Pours thick andseriously dark with Sumatra coffee aromas coupledwith hop oils, dried dark fruit, clove and anise. Bigand round in the mouth with seriously resiny hopflavors and a definite alcohol bite, it has full weightwith medium carbonation and great intensity.Strong espresso and unsweetened cocoa dominatethe finish, with a glimmer of sweet citrus rind shining through on the very end. A great candi-date to cellar. Best Buy.

93 Alaskan Brewing 2009 SmokedPorter (American Porter; Alaskan

Brewing Co, AK); 6.5% abv, $8/22 oz. Thisbeer is often credited with reviving the interest insmoked beers in America, and with one sip you’llunderstand why. The alder-smoked malts in thisopaque, black brew provide intense aromas of

campfire with nuances of sweet spice and burntcoffee as well. And the mouth…wow. This is a bigbeer, with not only a ton of maple-syrup glazedbacon smokiness but also a good dose of astrin-gency to the milky mouth. Charcoal, roasted cocoanibs, wheat bread and hints of cassis and caramelsauce all integrate beautifully with the smoke.What an excellent example of a properly smokedand balanced brew.

95 The Lost Abbey Angel’s Share Ale(Oak Aged English Barleywine;

Port Brewing Company, CA); 12.5% abv,$15/375 ml. A gorgeous beer, but definitely asipper that’s deserving of some time in the cellar.Caramel, vanilla, Bourbon-infused oak, chocolateliqueur and boozy licorice all attack your tastebudsand beat them into submission. Big and strong inthe mouth with heavy anise and dark roasted cof-fee character accented by cigar tobacco, scorchedcaramel, s’more, molasses and raisin flavors. Thick,with low carbonation, this is not a traditional Barleywine—but it isn’t unbalanced; it’s just ridicu-lously decadent with a long boozy finish. CellarSelection.

93 Samuel Smith’s Yorkshire Stingo(English Strong Ale; Samuel Smith

Old Brewery, England); 8.0% abv, $13/550ml. Aged in old cask-conditioned ale barrels forover one year after fermentation in YorkshireSquares, this beer has a subtle complexity for a lessover-the-top woodiness and refined character thanother oak-aged brews. The aromas are typical foran English old ale—sweet dark fruit, brown bread,caramel and oak—and the flavors are similarlyintense, with additional notes of dried dates, raisinsand toffee. Medium weight with soft carbonationbut exceptional balance, producing a sweet but notcloying drinking experience.

92 Heavy Seas Loose Cannon Hop3

Ale (American IPA; Clipper CityBrewing Company, MD); 7.0% abv, $10/12oz 6 pack. With over three pounds of hops perbarrel, added at three different times in the brew-ing process (hence the hop to the third), one

would think that this is going to be a beast of anIPA. But, despite the looming threat of extremehops, it’s remarkably well balanced and drinkable.The nose is fresh and vibrant with intense floralnotes and beautiful ruby red grapefruit. Themedium-full mouth shows moderate hop bitter-ness balanced by a nice caramel-malt sweetness.Well-integrated with flavors of fresh lemon slicesand tangerine oil on the finish.

92 Smuttynose Big Beer Series ScotchAle (Scotch Ale; Smuttynose Brew-

ing, NH); 7.11% abv, $7/22 oz. Pours a deepmahogany color with a fleeting tan head. Earthysmoke aromas, presumably derived from the peat-smoked malt, immediately waft out of the glass.They’re then supported by strong bready malt, figs,caramel-drizzled bread pudding and a touch oflicorice. Strong carbonation in the mouth livensup the intense profile. More toasty malt, cherryskins, raisin and orange oil support the intensity.Moderately high but well balanced alcohol, with asilky mouthfeel and a dry, lingering finish. A verydrinkable Scotch Ale.

93 Full Sail Top Sail Bourbon BarrelAged Porter (American Porter; Full

Sail Brewing Co, OR); 9.85% abv, $10/22oz. Part of the Brewmaster Reserve line of beersfrom Full Sail. Aged for about 10 months in Bour-bon casks, there’s no shortage of aromas or flavorshere with loads of dark chocolate, Bourbon, oakand vanilla in the nose and mouth. Deep black incolor with a roasted malt backbone and a glimmerof hop astringency on the back to keep it all bal-anced and the richness in check. The finish is end-less and the beer is quite drinkable despite thehigh abv.

92 Left Hand Fade to Black Ale Volume1 (Foreign/Export Stout; Left Hand

Brewing Company, CO); 8.5% abv, $10/6pack. A very intense nose, loaded with roastedespresso beans, dark bittersweet chocolate andvanilla bean. Just as intense in the mouth withstrong flavors of licorice, roasted malts and a goodamount of hop bitterness. The finish is very long

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with a nice evolution, moving from astringenthop tannins to charred oak to bittersweet choco-late drizzled with molasses. A good one to share,and certainly only for serious dark-stout lovers.

95 Founders Nemesis Ale 2010(American Barleywine; Founders

Brewing, MI); 12.0% abv, $20/12 oz 4pack. The aromas are rich and roasty as well asresiny, with burnt caramel, dried fig, anise andclove lifting the dominant booziness; you can tellthis is going to be a strong beer. Weighty butbright in the mouth with moderate carbonationleading into intense burnt notes of toast, grahamcracker, brown sugar, dark bittersweet chocolate,tobacco and earth. The finish is eternal with astrong Sumatra coffee flavor. A very good sipperthat should hold nicely. Cellar Selection.

91 Southampton Keller Pils (KellerBier; Southampton Publick House,

NY); 5.0% abv, $9/6 pack. This is a new addi-tion to Southampton that will focus on a singlehop variety each release in order to showcasethat hop’s specific aroma and flavor profiles. Thisyear’s hop is the Hallertauer Tradition, a refinedhop with delicate aromatics and a fairly assertiveflavor profile. Light grassy aromas in the bou-quet are supported by fresh sweet citrus, driedwheat and floral hop notes. The mouth ismedium weight with a good amount of hop pres-ence as well as cracker, earthy spice and resinnotes. The astringent bitter kick leads all the waythrough the long finish, slowly dissipating.

91 Widmer Brothers The OriginalDrifter Pale Ale (American Pale Ale;

Widmer Brothers Brewing Company, OR);5.7% abv, $9/6 pack. Brewed with Summitand Nelson hops for a unique citrus flavor andaroma: blood orange, sweet grass and roasted redapple notes abound in the nose and mouth.Light weight, with medium carbonation and anice balance of rich toasted malt, citrus and atouch of pine resin. The finish is long with dom-inating sweet malty notes followed by a kiss of

bitterness on the finish. Well integrated and amore robust offering to pair well with food.

91 Fuller’s London Pride (English PaleAle; Fuller Smith & Turner PLC,

United Kingdom); 4.7% abv, $10/6 pack.Slightly hazy copper color with a cream-coloredhead that leaves nice lacing. The bouquet is fullof resinous hop notes with a strong backbone oftoasty, bready malt. Round and satisfying in themouth, starting off with rich piney notes thattransition to fresh vibrant citrus on the finish.The close shows more fruit along with an appro-priate dryness, and the moderate carbonationand overall rich, roasty character make this a bal-anced and enjoyable brew.

90 Trumer Pils (German Pilsener;Trumer Brauerei Berkeley, CA);

4.8% abv, $9/6 pack. Pours a brilliant golden-straw color with a medium head that leaves a lit-tle lacing behind. The bouquet offers notes ofgrass, dried hops and a slight metallic skunki-ness. Medium weight and creamy in the mouth,with a good amount of sweet malty flavors along-side nice notes of peppery spice and orange cit-rus. The carbonation is assertive but seeminglyfine-grained, and the finish closes dry andremarkably clean, leaving you ready for more.

91 BarbaRoja Barrel-Aged Red Ale(Barrel-Aged Amber Ale; Bar-

baroja, Argentina); 9.0% abv, $12/750 ml.A fairly intense and sweet bouquet offers aro-mas of raisins, dried dates and apricots, hints ofsour cherries and an oak-infused nutty maltsweetness. Medium-weight and solidly carbon-ated in the mouth, there are full, smoky flavors ofroasty toasted malts and suggestions of woodsupported by notes of chocolate and burntespresso leading through to the finish. Sweet anddry at the same time, you can barely tell the alcohol is as high as it is. With so much complex-ity and depth of flavors matched by solid carbon-ation, this promises to be a terrific foodcompanion.

91 Telegraph White Ale (Witbier; Tele-graph Brewing Company, CA);

4.5% abv, $8/750 ml. Originally a summerseasonal that’s now offered year-round, thoughits peak season for enjoyment is still the summermonths. Cloudy yellow in color with an over-the-top head that takes its time to subside but leaveslittle lacing. It’s quite fragrant with typical witbieraromas of white florals, chamomile, orange pith,soft pear and a touch of coriander. The mouth-feel is full and round with similar notes foundon the nose but more flavors of banana peel,sweet grass, tart citrus and a kick of white pepperon the finish. Crisp and refreshing with strong,lively carbonation.

90 Napa Smith Brewery Amber Ale(American Amber/Red Ale; Napa

Smith Brewery, CA); 5.75% abv, $4/22 oz.Medium copper in color, with a significant tan-colored head that leaves nice flecks of lacing.The nose is medium-intense with some hop flo-rals shining through among the toasty malt andfresh grass aromas. The mouth is smooth andcreamy, with malty sweetness and hop bitternessdancing on the palate, neither achieving com-plete dominance. A grainy fleshiness lingers onthe dry finish, along with hints of shortbreadcookie crumbs. Love the pairings on the bottle,including barbecued meats, stews and cheeses.

89 ZZvv

atec Bright Lager Beer (Bohemian-Style Pilsener; ZZ

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atec atec Brewery,Czech Republic); 4.6% abv; $4/500 ml. Withv

Zatec being the famous Saaz hop growing regionand the label including stickers of the hops, andthe Protected Designation of Origin seal, oneexpects to experience the best the hop has tooffer. Light golden in color with a medium-white frothy head. The aromas are sweeter thanone might expect; apricot notes mingle with hopoils and caramel malt. The flavors are alsointense for a pilsener, with a lot of bready, freshyeast notes alongside elegant and well-inte-grated Saaz hop notes that offer a plethora ofcharacter and complexity: spicy, earthy, floraland bitter all at once.

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