M K BANSAL

NITRA TECHNICAL CAMPUS

Ghaziabad

Basic Weaves

In representing

weave on graph paper

each distance between

the two vertical lines

represents one warp

thread and the distance

between two horizontal

lines represents one

weft thread.

Small squares illustrates the place

where certain warp threads meets with

certain weft thread. Thus the square

marked ‘a’ will indicate the interlacement

of warp thread no.1 with 1st pick, mark

‘b’ will indicate the interlacement of warp

thread no. 2 with 1st pick. like wise mark

‘g’ will indicate the interlacement of warp

thread no. 3 with 2nd pick and so on.

Representation of woven structure on graph paper:

Different kinds of graph paper used in designing

The proper selection of graph paper is ascertained by the no. of warp and weft threads required per inch in the finished fabric. For example a fabric of 80 EPI and 120 PPI will require a graph of corresponding proportion or as 80 is to 120 = 8x12, similarly EPI= 80 & PPI= 60 will require a 8x6 graph paper.

Indication of any kind in a certain

square inside the repeat of the

weave upon the graph paper mean

warp up , and squares left empty

inside the repeat of the weave on

graph paper mean weft up in its

corresponding position in the

fabric.

Warp up

Weft up

Basic Fabric Structure ( Weaves)

There are three basic weaves.

Plain Weave

Twill Weave

Satin Weave

All other Structures are a variation or a combination of these weaves.

Plain weave is the most basic of three fundamental types of weaves.It is strongand hard-wearing, used for fashion and furnishing fabrics.In plain weave, the warp and weft are aligned so they form a simple criss-crosspattern. Each weft thread crosses the warp threads by going over one, then underthe next, and so on. The next weft thread goes under the warp threads that itsneighbor went over, and vice versa.

Terms as tabby, Calico, alpaca, and taffeta are

applied to plain cloth.

Plain WeaveDescription:

Plain Weave

Fabrics produced on plain weave baseSome examples of plain weave fabrics with different textures are

Chiffon

Taffeta

Organdy

Lawn

Voile

Muslin

Plain sheeting

Plaids

Seersuckers

fill-a fill

Cotton Checks

1. Threads which are different in color, material, thickness or twist are

combined,

2. The number of threads per dent of the reed, or picks in a given space is

varied.

3. The ends are brought from two or more warp beams which are

differently tensioned.

4. By means of specially shaped reeds which rises and falls the threads are

caused to form Zig-Zag lines in the cloth.

5. By the process of dyeing, printing and finishing.

Fancy effects produced with the plain weave:

There are lot of methods of ornamenting and varying

the structure of plain weave.

Plain Check & Stripes

Twill weaveTwill weave produce diagonal lines in

the cloth. In simple twills point of

intersection move one out ward and

one upward on succeeding picks.

Twill weave can be made on any

number of threads that exceeds two.

Twill lines are formed on both sides

of the cloth and direction of the lines

may be right or left.

Twill weaves enables greater weight,

closer setting, and better draping

quality than plain weave in the cloth.

2 by 1 twill

Popular Twill fabrics

Cashmere

Denim

Serge

blanket

Gabardine

Drill

Denim 3/1 Twill weave

Satin & sateen Weave

The term satin is used for warp face

structure and sateen is used for weft face

structure. In pure sateen and satin weaves

there is one interlacing for each warp yarn

and only one interlacing for each weft yarn

in each repeat of the weave. This result in

production of fabrics with a maximum

degree of smoothness and luster and without

any prominent weave effect.

Buckskin, Venetian, and damask are fabrics

made on satin structures

satin thread interlacement 5 shaft Warp face

satin Weave

5 shaft Weft face

sateen Weave

sateen thread interlacement

4x4 Matt

Plain weave derivative

Matt, basket or Hopsack weave:

Basket weave is made by extending the plain

weave both vertically and horizontally so that in

both directions there are two or more threads

working together in the same order. When the

groups of yarns are equal, the basket weave is

termed regular, otherwise it is termed irregular.

The two by two (2x2) basket weave is the most

common. In this weave as given below the warp

yarns in pairs interlace in plain weave order with

the weft yarns in pairs. The weave repeats on

four ends and four picks, and require only two

heald frames to make.

Matt or Basket Weave

Regular 2x2 basket

Regular 3x3 basket

Regular 4x4 basket

Irregular 4x2 basketIrregular 3x2 basket

Rib Weaves

Rib weaves are usually made by having two or more warp yarns

together, inter- lacing as one yarn with the individual weft yarns,

or two or more weft yarns together, interlacing as one yarn with

individual warp yarns. The groups of yarns interlace in plain

weave order with the single yarns. Fabrics with a rib weave are

reversible unless one side is made the face by finishing or

printing.

Warp Rib Weave:

Warp ribs are produced

by extending the plain

weave vertically.

3x3 warp rib

4x4 warp rib

Ornamenting warp rib:

The warp ribs can be

emphasized even more

strongly by the use of

alternate coarse and fine

ends, slack and tight

ends, and Thick and fine

picks as shown in Figure

A, B, and C A B C

Weft Rib Weave:

Weft ribs are produced

by extending the plain

weave horizontally.

3x3 weft rib 4x4 weft rib

Twill weave

Twill weave produce diagonal lines

in the cloth. Twill weave can be

made on any number of threads

that exceeds two. Twill lines are

formed on both sides of the cloth

and direction of the lines may be

right or left.

2/1 Twill

(shifting warp wise)

Angle of inclination of twill weaves

Twill Angle:

Twill angle is the angle which is produced by twillline with respect to the horizontal line.This twill angle depends on following factors.

1. Ratio between EPI and PPI.2. Difference between warp and weft count.3. Rate of advancement it interlacement warp andweft.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FuHUlji0neI/Uerwc8w4ZaI/AAAAAAAAIus/qpRP5hvW16s/s1600/Untitled.jpg

In simple twills point of intersection move one out ward and one

upward on succeeding picks. Twill weaves enables greater

weight, closer setting, and better draping quality than plain

weave in the cloth. Denim, blanket and Gabardine fabrics are

made of twill weave basis.

2/2 Twill

Shifting warp wise

4/4 Right hand Twill 4/4 Left hand Twill

4/1 warp face Twill 4/1 weft face Twill

Mixing of two Twill weaves

4/2 & 3/1 Twill

Mixing of three Twill weaves

4/4, 3/3, 2/2 Twill

Mixing of four Twill weaves

4/2, 3/1, 1/3, 2/4

Twill weave derivative

Zigzag or waved twill

Warp face & weft face & balanced twill

Steep or elongated twill

Herringbone twill

Reverse twill

Broken twill

Mixed twill

Combining twills –end to end pick to pick

Fancy twills

Transposed or re arranged twill

Diamond and diaper twill designs

Zigzag or waved twill –

The simplest forms of modified twill is the waved twill

achieved by reversing the direction of the twill at suitable intervals.

The reversal can occur either upon a warp direction in which case

horizontal wave is produced , or upon a weft pick which results in

a vertical weave or a zig-zag effect .

The horizontal wave effects are economically produced in

point drafts and good styles may be woven on few healds. The

vertical line effects, however mostly require dobby shedding motion,

because of comparatively large number of picks in the lifting plan.

Method-I Converting 3/3 Twill into zig-zag twill

1 2 3 4 5 6 5 4 3 2

In Horizontal direction In Vertical direction

2

3

4

5

6

5

4

3

2

1

Converting 4/4 Twill into zigzag TwillConverting 3/1,1/3 Twill into zigzag Twill

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 7 6 5 4 3 2

Small zigzag of 2/2 twill

(one repeat)

Medium zigzag of 2/2 Twill

1 2 3 4 3 21 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 7 6 5 4 3 2

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15161514 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2

Large zigzag of 2/2 Twill

Herringbone Twill -

These twills, also depend upon the reversal of the

direction to achieve the desired effect . The twill does not

come to a point where it changes the direction but instead

one twill line is said to cut into the other at the point of

reversal . The following design shows construction of 2 and 2

herringbone twill which runs from left to right for the desired

number of ends (8) where upon the reversal of direction takes

place by introducing on the 9th end, the mark which are exactly

opposite to those of the 8th end .

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 910111213141516

Herringbone twill of 2/2 Twill Herringbone twill of 3/3 Twill

(16x4) (12x6)

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Herring bone Twill of 9 repeats of 4/4 Twill (48x24)

Herringbone Twill of 4/1,3/1 Twill (18x9)

Herring bone Zig-Zag

(b) Reverse Twill –

In this weave the number of threads in warp & weft of one

repeat remains same in the design . In the following design

one repeat of design has 8 threads in warp & weft. Reverse

twill design should have same number of threads in face &

back i.e. 2/2 ,3/3 , 4/4 etc.

2/2Reverse Twill 3/3 Reverse Twill 4/4 Reverse twill

(4x4)(6x6)

(8x8)

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 2 3 4 5 10 9 8 7 6

5x5 Regular Twill 5/5 Reverse Twill

(10x10) (10x10)

Broken Twill - It is produced by breaking a regular twill.

1 2 3 4 1 2 4 3

2/2 Regular Twill 2/2 Broken Twill

at a break of 2

1 2 3 4 5 6 1 2 3 6 5 4

3/3 Regular Twill 3/3 Broken Twill

at a break of 3

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 2 4 3 5 6 8 7 2 1 4 3 6 5 8 7

4/4 Regular Twill 4/4 Broken Twill at a break of2 4/4 Broken Twill at a break of2

1 2 3 6 5 4 7 8 1 4 3 2 5 6 7 2 1 8 3 4 5 8 7 6

4/4 Broken Twill at a Break of 3 (24x8)

1 2 3 4 5 2 1 8 7 6 3 4 5 6 7 4 3 2 1 8 5 6 7 8 1 6 5 4 3 2 7 8 1 2 3 8 7 6 5 4

4/4 Broken Twill at a Break of 5 (40x8)

Mixed Twill –

This has been developed by combining the two regular twill designs.

This can be of two types. The first is warp mixed twill weave and

second is weft mixed twill weave. One twill say ‘A’ is first indicated

on the odd vertical spaces and to complete the design, twill ‘B’ is

indicated on the even vertical spaces . Each twill must be carried

out on 6 ends and picks and hence the design ‘C’ consist of 6

threads of ‘A’ and 6 threads of ‘B’ and thus repeats on 12 ends and

6 picks .

A B

C

Diamond Twill -

Diamond weave is symmetrical about their vertical and horizontal axes

which can be produced with the aid of point draft and vertical waved

twilled peg-plan.

True diamond shapes converge most designs of this type can be

constructed economically on the pointed draft basis.

construction of a diamond design based upon 3/ 3 twill weave is

given below:

1 2 3 4 5 6 5 4 3 2

1 2 3 4 5 6 5 4 3 2

1 2 3 4 5 6 5 4 3 2

Diamond weave (10x10)

1

2

3

4

5

6

Zig-Zag weave (10x6)

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

11

10

9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

Diamond weave of 4/4,2/2 (22x22)

Diaper Weave

Diaper weaves are symmetrical about their diagonal axes, these are based on herringbone draft and vertical waved twilled peg-plan.

Diaper weave based on 2/2 Twill weave

Diaper weave on 3/3, 3/3 Twill

Uses of Twill Weave:

Twill weave are extensively used in manufacturing cloth for

garments household cloth and industrial cloth.

•Generally dimond,diaper and zigzag twill are used for making

pillow,cover,screen,unpholstery,bed sheet,towel etc.

•Continious twill are used for making fabric for shirting,suiting and

pantin(denim,gaverdine).

•For making various type of ornamental cloth,other derivatives of

twill weave are used.

•Herring bone twill are used in the cloth of suiting and overcoats.

Satin & sateen Weave

The term satin is used

for warp face structure

and sateen is used for

weft face structure. In

pure sateen and satin

weaves there is one

interlacing for each

warp yarn and only

one interlacing for

each weft yarn in each

repeat of the weave.

This will result in

production of fabrics

with a maximum

degree of smoothness

and luster and without

any prominent weave

effect.

Ref: Fabric Structure by N. Gokerneshan

Thumb rules for making satin weave

• Move can not be one or less than one of the satin no.

• Move no. should not be factor of satin no.

• There should not be any common factor between move no. & satin no.

Regular Satin and Sateen weave Possible moves

5 end satin/sateen 2,3

7 end satin/sateen 2,3,4,5

8 end satin/sateen 3,5

9 end satin/sateen 2,4,5,7

10 end satin/sateen 3,7

11 end satin/sateen 2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9

12 end satin/sateen 5,7

4 end sateen (Satinette)

6 end sateen

Irregular Sateen: These are entirely free from twill lines

8 end sateen (irregular)

In eight end irregular sateen 3 is counted

to the right for four picks; on the fifth

pick the count is equal to half the

number of threads in the repeat i.e. 4 and

then on succeeding picks 3 is counted to

the left.

10 end irregular sateen

In ten end irregular sateen 3 is

counted to the right for half the

number of picks; then 5 is counted

and afterwards on succeeding picks

3 is counted to the left.

12 ends irregular sateen

In 12 thread irregular sateen the

count is 3 & 5 alternately for the

six picks, then 6 for the next pick

and afterwards 3 & 5 alternately to

the left.

Satin weave derivative

In simple derivatives the new

design is built up by using the

original satin or sateen as base,

and subtracting or adding marks

as required in the same relative

position to each base marks.

5 end sateen Derivative

5 end satin Venetian weave

8 end satin Buckskin weave

8 end satin

derivative

Crepe or oatmeal weave

The term crepe is applied to weaves, which

gives the appearance of being covered by

minute spots or seeds. Crepe weave is different

from crepe cloth in which broken surface effect

is due to entirely to the use of high twist yarns

which, upon controlled shrinkage in the

finishing, produce a highly irregular texture

although woven in the plain weave.

Construction of crepe weave on satin basis

The crepe weaves can be constructed by adding

marks in certain order to some of the sateen base.

Thumb rule to make crepe weave on this principle is

that warp floats & weft float should not be more than

three in both side. In the example given at right

marks are added in Two up one down, One up one

down, one up one down order

Crepe weave on 8 end

satin base (move 3) [2/1,1/1,1/1]

Corkscrew Weaves

Twill Weave

Fabric Characteristics

Twill WeaveCharacteristics (I)

• The values of the twill weave include its strength and drapability

• The diagonally arranged interlacing of the warp and weft provide greater pliability and resilience than the plain weave.

• Twill weave fabrics are more tightly weave and will not get dirty as quickly as the plain weave.

• The yarns are usually closely beaten, making especially durable fabric.

• Twill weave are commonly used in men’s suits and coats.

Twill Weave (II)Characteristics

• Twill line can be made more pominent by using:

• Plied yarns; high twist yarns; twill weaves with longer floats; higher number of yarns per inch; and yarn twist opposite to the twill-line direction.

• Fabric with these lines may become flattened by wear and pressure, and thus become shiny.

Twill DerivatesBroken Twill Weave

• Many combinations and variation of twill constructions are possible.

• These produce interesting effect.

• The most well-known are herringbone (broken twill), gabardine and corkscrew twill.

Broken Twill Weave

Herringbone Weave

Broken Twill Weave

Gabardine Weave Corkscrew Weave

Herringbone twill on point paper

3) Satin Weave

Satin Weave (I)

• Similar to twill weave but the diagonal line of the satin weave is not visible.

• It is purposely interrupted in order to contribute to the flat, smooth, lustrous surface desired.

• There is no visible design on the face of the fabric.

• In a true satin weave, each warp and weft yarn only interlace once in each repeat of weave.

• Thus, satin weave fabrics have relatively long floats.

Satin Weave

5 shaft warp face satin

5 shaft weft face satin

Warp face satinOn graph paper

Weft faceSatin on graph paper

Satin Weave (II)

• In a warp face satin, the face is predominantly warp yarn, while for a weft face satin, the weft yarns are predominant on the face.

• Satin weave may be designated by the number of harnesses they require in weaving, such as five-harness satin.

Satin-weave Fabric

• Satin fabric is made from filament yarns, with the warp yarns predominant on the face.

• Satin fabrics are smooth and lustrous because lustrous filament yarns are used; there are few interlacing points, that gives long floats; and the face yarns are fine and closely packed.

• Since the greatest lustre is in the lengthwise (warp) direction, garments using this fabric in warp direction show lustre effect.

Sateen Fabric

• Sateen fabric is a durable cotton fabric, usually with weft face satin weave.

• It is not lustrous as satin fabric as spun yarns are used.

• Since it is also heavier, with thicker yarns, it is not as drapable as satin fabric.

Characteristics (Satin fabric)

• Satin weave fabric drapes well because the weave is and heavier than the twill weave.

• The compactness of the weave gives the fabric more body as well as less porosity, which makes the fabric warmer.

• The quality of drapability makes satin fabric preferable for evening wear and the warmth contributes to its value as lining material.

• Although the long floats of the yarn provide lustre to the satin weave fabrics, they are responsible for the poor wearing quality of many of these fabrics

Comparison of Basic Weave Properties