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Quality Testing
Finishing
Coloration
Weaving
Weaving Preparation
Fabric Construction
Spinning
Spinning Preparation
Fiber
Fiber
Spinning Preparation
Plucker in the Blow Room
Carding
Drawing-In
Spinning
Fabric ConstructionTypes of Fabric Construction
Woven fabric is made from two sets of yarns, a horizontal set and a vertical set, which are interlaced to make fabric.
Knitted fabric is made by interlooping (loops of yarn that are locked together) yarn.
Non- woven Fabrics are made by forming fibers into a wad or web like structure, which are then layered one on top of another. The layers are bonded by applying pressure, moisture, heat, chemicals or specialized mechanical techniques such as needling which entangles the fibers together using barbed needles.
Weaving Preparation
Warping
Sectional Warping Back Beam Warping
'Ball Warps' Awaiting Dying Warp Yarns after Dying
Long Chain Beaming Sizing
Weaving
Drawing- In
ColorationDYESAre water soluble molecules which combine both chemically andphysically with the textile fibre molecules, and actually penetrate thesurface of the fibre.Certain classes of dyes are attracted to particular fibres, and thefollowing dyes are used in dyeing cotton:• Reactives - possibly the most commonly used: it gives a bright shade
on cotton • Vat - used for the indigo dyeing of denim and viscose fibre • Direct - a cheap, colour fast dye • Acids - one used for dyeing protein fibres such as wool and nylon PIGMENTSAre not water soluble and do not combine with any particular fibre type.Pigment particles are bound to the fibre surface by binding agents(resins). The binder, rather than the pigment, unites or combines withthe fibre.
FinishingFinishing is the general term for a multitude ofprocesses and treatments which a fabric mayundergo after it has been woven or knitted anddyed or printed. It is the final processing of thecloth and its purpose is to make the fabric suitablefor its intended end use. That may mean makingthe fabric shrink proof, softer, soil resistant, stiffer,water repellent or crease resistant, or acombination of these and many more.
Textile Finishing
Multitude of processes and treatments given to fabric after they are knitted or woven and dyed
or printed.
↓Purpose is to make the fabric suitable for its
intended end use.
↓E.g. Shrink Proof, Softer, Soil Resistant, Stiffer,
Water repellant, or crease resistant etc…..
Classification of Finishes
Finishes
Permanent Finishes
Durable Finishes
Semi-Durable Finishes
This finishing doesn't alter throughout the
life of fabric. E.g. Pleating
Temporary Finishes
Last throughout lifetime but effectiveness
diminishes after each Cleaning. E.g. Super Wash
Pullovers
Last through several laundering and
many are renewable in home laundry.
E.g. Fire resistance in Nightwear
Diminishes by first time an article is
laundered or dry cleaned.
Preparatory TreatmentsSINGEING
Fabrics are passed very quickly over a row of gas flames or between heated metal plates.
↓For Cotton/polyester blends done at preparatory
stage, as it causes globules pf melted polyester fiber to form.
DESIZING. Sizes are chemical compounds added to warp yarns
to provide them sufficient abrasion resistance to withstand stresses to weaving.
↓This is the process of removal of size to allow
colorants and finishing chemicals to penetrate into fibers
SCOURING Cleans Impurities from fabrics containing cellulosic fibers
( e.g. Cotton)
↓Fibers exposed to solution of Sodium Hydroxide and
Detergent
↓Steamed and rinsed
MERCERIZINGImproves dye uptake, stiffness, strength and absorbency.
↓Fabric is placed in cold Alkaline Solution of Sodium
Hydroxide (18-27%).
↓Fabric is rinsed and given cold acid bath to neutralize any
remaining alkali.
↓Prevents shrinkage and develops luster.
STENTERINGMechanical straightening of fabrics.
↓Dry the fabric
↓Stabilize .i.e. set the width
↓Cure any finishes/ resins imparted to the fabric.
SKEW The effect of skew with twill fabrics finished with
the weft yarn at right angle to the selvedge is that the leg twisting occurs in jeans during
garments washing.
PRE-SHRINKING/ SANFORIZINGDone mainly for Denim garment because denim
shouldn't become baggy with use.
↓Small amount of shrinkage to be left in the fabric.
↓Shrinkage should be a known and consistent value.
↓Shrinking is done on the Sanforizing Machine.
FLAME RETARDANTDegrees of resistance to Fire Fireproof Fabrics: Total resistance to destructionby fire Flameproof Fabrics: may degrade with prolongedexposure to flame or high temperatures. Flame Retardant Fabrics: Self-extinguishing
without excessiveflame.E.g. of Textile FinishesBaypret: Anti Crease.Synthappret: Anti Felting Finishing.Baylan: Helps to dye wool without boilingBayguard: Protection against stains and dirt.
Quality TestingFor testing the quality of the fabric various test are carriedout in the lab like fastness test etc.. and also undertakedevelopment work in the laundering of denim fordifferent finishes, these can be: Testing Laundry Abrasion Localized Abrasion Change Of Shade Effects Bleaching
Man made fabrics are created by “EXTRUSION” : forcing a thick, viscous liquid through tiny holes of a device called a ‘Spinneret’ to form continuous filaments of
semi-solid polymers.
1. SPINNERET
• Shower head like structure• Tiny openings and made
from expensive corrosion
resistant metals.
2. SPINNING
The process of extrusion
and solidification of
endless filaments is called
spinning.
Types Of Spinning1. WET SPINNING
Fiber-forming substances dissolved in a solvent.
↓Spinneret submerged
in Chemical Bath↓
Filaments emerge, precipitate from the solution and solidify.
↓E.g. Acrylic, Rayon,
Aramid, Spandex, Modacrylic
2. DRY SPINNINGSolidification achieved by evaporating the solvent in a stream of air or inert gas.
↓Filaments don’t come in contact with precipitating liquid.
↓E.g. Acetate, Triacetate, Acrylic, Modacrylic, Spandex, Vinyon etc…… 3. MELT SPINNINGFiber Forming Substance melted
↓Extruded through spinneret
↓Solidified by Cooling
↓E.g. Nylon, Olefin, Polyester, Saran & Suran
3. GEL SPINNING Used to obtain High strength or other special fiber properties.
↓Polymer Chains bound together in liquid crystal form.
↓Filament passed through air
↓Cooled in a liquid bath
↓E.g. Polyethylene, Aramid
MANUFACTURING PROCESS OF NATURAL FABRICS
Harvesting and cleaning the Fiber;↓
Carding it and Spinning it into threads;
↓Weaving into cloths;
↓Sewing the cloth into clothes.
Picking is removing of foreign matter (dirt, insects, leaves, Seeds) from the fiber
PICKING By Hand By Machine
CARDING By Hand By Machine
Carding is combing the fibers to align and join them into loose rope called “ Sliver”
SPINNING By Hand By Machine
Spinning is twisting of the fibers resulting yarn on a Bobbin.
WARPING By Hand By Machine
Warping is gathering yarns from a number of Bobbins and winding them close together on a reel or spool.
WEAVING By Hand By Machine
Weaving is the final stage in making cloth, which is done on a loom.
BudgetingLAUNDERING COST OF HOTEL ROOMSNo. Of Rooms in a Hotel = 300 roomsOccupancy Percentage= 70 %No. Of Rooms Occupied= 245 roomsPar Stock Maintained= 3.5LAUNDERING COST OF BED LINENLaundering Cost of Bed Sheets4.5*2 =9 Rs.9* 245 (rooms occupied)= Rs.2,205Landry Cost of Pillow Cover1.75* 2= 3.50Rs.3.50* 245(rooms occupied)= Rs.857.50Laundry Cost of DuvetRs.10*245(rooms occupied)= Rs.2,450Laundry cost of Bed CoverRs.25* 245(rooms Occupied)= Rs.6,125Total Laundering Cost for 245 rooms at 70% occupancy of Bed linen = Rs.11,637.50
BudgetingLaundering Cost Of
Hotel RoomsNo. Of Rooms in a Hotel = 300 roomsOccupancy Percentage = 70 %No. Of Rooms Occupied = 245 roomsPar Stock Maintained
= 3.5
LAUNDERING COST OF BATH LINEN Laundry cost for Bath Towel4*4= 16Rs.16* 245(rooms Occupied)= Rs.3,920Laundry Cost of Hand Towel1.75*4=7Rs.7*245(Rooms Occupied)= Rs.1,715Laundry Cost of Face Towel0.50*4=2Rs.7* 245(rooms Occupied)= Rs.490Laundry Cost of Bath Mat2.25*2=4.50Rs.4.50* 245(rooms Occupied)= Rs.1,102.50Total Laundering Cost for 245 rooms at 70% occupancy of Bath
linen = Rs.7,227.50Total Laundering Cost for 245 rooms at 70% occupancy of a Room
= Rs.18,865
Laundering Cost Of Bed Linen•Laundering Cost of Bed Sheets 4.5*2 =9
Rs.9* 245 (rooms occupied) = Rs.2,205
•Landry Cost of Pillow Cover 1.75* 2 = 3.5Rs.3.50* 245(rooms occupied) = Rs.857.50
•Laundry Cost of DuvetRs.10*245(rooms occupied) = Rs.2,450
•Laundry cost of Bed CoverRs.25* 245(rooms Occupied) = Rs.6,125
Total Laundering Cost for 245 rooms at 70% occupancy of Bed linen = Rs.11,637.50
Laundering Cost Of Bath Linen•Laundry cost for Bath Towel4*4= 16Rs.16* 245(rooms Occupied) = Rs.3,920
•Laundry Cost of Hand Towel 1.75*4=7Rs.7*245(Rooms Occupied) = Rs.1,715
•Laundry Cost of Face Towel 0.50*4=2Rs.7* 245(rooms Occupied) = Rs.490
•Laundry Cost of Bath Mat 2.25*2=4.50Rs.4.50* 245(rooms Occupied) = Rs.1,102.50
Total Laundering Cost for 245 rooms at 70%
occupancy of Bath linen
= Rs.7,227.50
Total Laundering Cost for 245 rooms at 70% occupancy of a Room
= Rs.18,865
Budget Of Room Linen
UPHOLSTERY
Cost of Dbl Seated Sofa
Rs.950
Cost of Chairs With Armrest
Rs.600
Cost of Chairs w/o Armrest
Rs.450
Total Cost of Upholstery Rs.2000
Linen Item Cost* Required No
Total Cost * Par stock
Total Amount
Linen Item Cost* Required No
Total Cost * Par stock
Total Amount
BED LINENCost of Bed Sheets Rs300* 2 =
Rs.600Rs.600* 3.5 = Rs.2100
Cost of Pillow Covers Rs.125*2= Rs.350
Rs.350*3.5= Rs.1225
Cost of Duvet Rs.4000 Rs.4000*3.5= Rs.14000
Cost of Bed Cover Rs.6000 Rs.6000*3.5= Rs.21000
Total Cost of Bed Linen Rs.38325
BATH LINEN
Cost of Bath towel Rs.350*4= Rs.1400
Rs.1400*3.5= Rs.4900
Cost of Hand Towel Rs.175*4= Rs.700
Rs.700*3.5= Rs.2450
Cost of Face Towel Rs.75*4 = Rs.300
Rs.300*3.5= Rs.1050
Cost of Bath Mat Rs.200* 2 = Rs.400
Rs.400*3.5= Rs.1400
Total cost of Bath Linen Rs.9800
Linen Item Cost* Required No
Total Cost * Par stock
Total Amount
Total Cost of Bed Linen Rs.38325
Total Cost of Upholstery Rs.2000
Total cost of Bath Linen Rs.9800
Total Cost of Room Linen
Rs.50425
Cost Analysis of Bed Linen of Hotels
8140
11000
8730
14050
8954
02000400060008000
10000120001400016000
ITC(M
)
JW(M
)
Mer
idien
(A)
Oberoi(
M)
Taj(A
)
Bed linen
Cost Analysis of Bath Linen of Hotels
540
1150955
1455
360
0200400600800
1000120014001600
Bath Linen
Cost Analysis of Upholstery of Hotels
400
600700
750
400
0100200300400500600700800
Upholstery
Laundry Cost Analysis of Bath Linen of Hotels
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
ITC(M) JW(M) Meridien(A) Oberoi(M) Taj(A)
ITC(M)JW(M)Meridien(A)Oberoi(M)Taj(A)
Laundry Cost Analysis of Bed Linen
55
41.25
55 53
30
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
ITC(M)JW(M)Meridien(A)Oberoi(M)Taj(A)
Laundry Cost Analysis of Upholstery of Hotels50
41.25
55 53
35
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
ITC(M)JW(M)Meridien(A)Oberoi(M)Taj
Guest Questionnaire Analysis
Bed Linen
Upholstery
Bath LinenNaturalSynthetic
Blended
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
3
3.5
4
4.5
5
Analysis of Fabrics Preferred
0
1
2
3
4
5
EHK GUEST SUPPLIER
NaturalSyntheticBlended