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FASH 15 textiles
aesthetic finishes
aesthetic finishes
aesthetic finishes change the appearance and/or hand of fabrics
applied to a fabric with express purpose of altering some visual, textural, hand or other aesthetic dimension of the fabric—sometimes AKA surface design
•additive finishes—finishing chemical added to fabric to produce texture, luster, embossed designs and abrasion resistance•subtractive finishes—something removed from fabric during finishing
aesthetic finishes—luster
luster finishes produce a change in a fabric’s light reflectance
glazeda friction calendar produces a highly glazed surface•chintz•polished cotton
aesthetic finishes—luster
ciresimilar to a glazed finish, except metal roll is hot to produce greater luster
aesthetic finishes—luster
plasticized finishvery thin layer of polymer added to dyed fabric
moirehave wood grain or watermarked appearance; used for somewhat formal looks in apparel & interiors
aesthetic finishes—luster
schreinerhave softer luster than most other luster finishes—uses schreiner calendar which has a metal roller engraved with 200-300 fine diagonal line per inch
aesthetic finishes—luster
embossedcreated using an embossing calendar that produces either flat or raised designs on fabric
aesthetic finishes—drape
drape finishes change the way a fabric falls or hangs over a 3D shape
transparent & crispproduced by treatment with sulfuric acid in cotton fabrics; subtractive—called parchmentizing•lawn parchmentized to create organdy
aesthetic finishes—drape
burned-outproduced by printing a chemical solvent on a blend fabric made of different generic fibers—one fiber dissolves, leaving sheer areas
aesthetic finishes—drape
sizingfabric immersed in mixture containing waxes, oils, glycerine and softeners to add or control fabric body
weightingmetallic salt or plant-based compounds used to add weight and body to apparel fabric
aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
embossedsome have 3D raised or designed pattern
aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
pleatedmade using a variation of embossing—• pattern paper (hand)—produces wider variety of
pleated designs • machine process—blades pleat fabric as
inserted between two heated rolls
aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
puckered surfacecreated by partially dissolving the surface of a nylon or polyester fabric
aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
plisseconverted from either lawn or print-cloth gray goods by printing an alkali, sodium hydroxide, onto the apparel fabric in the form of stripes or designs
aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
flockedfine natural or synthetic surface fiber is applied after a base fabric has been produced—can be localized or all over
aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
embroidereddecorated by hand or by machine with a surface-applied thread
aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
expanded foamcolored compound printed on fabric expands during processing to give 3D texture to fabric
shearedpile or napped fabric in which the surface has been cut to remove loose fiber or yarn ends, knots or similar irregularities or surface flaws
aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
brushedafter shearing, fabric is usually brushed to clean off fiber ends
aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
nappedlayer of fiber ends raised from the ground weave of a the fabric by mechanical brushing action
aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
crepeingspecial compacting process to produce a fabric with a soft hand—can create an all over texture or localized plisse effect
aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
fulledimproves appearance, hand, thickness, softness, body & cover of wool fabrics for apparel & upholstery
aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
beetledfabric revolves slowly over wooden drum and is pounded with wooden hammer until yarn is flattened into an oval, not round, cross section
aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
coronizedprocess for heat setting, dyeing and finishing glass fiber in one continuous operation
emerizing, sueding or sanding process used on fine silk-like fabrics; fabrics moved over two or more rollers with fine emery paper on the first roll and coarser paper on the second
aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
abrasive, chemical or enzyme washes
abrasive wash—pumice or other abrasive material saturated with a chemical and tumbled with fabric or garment
chemical wash—chemicals partially destroy fiber & create irregularities; include alkalis, oxidizing agents, bleaches, etc…
enzyme wash—similar to chemical wash except uses cellulase (enzyme) to dissolve part of cellulose material
aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
silk boil-offremoves sericin and creates a looser, more mobile fabric structure
caustic treatmentcreates synthetic apparel fabric with hand and texture like silk—caustic soda dissolves 5-18% of fabric
hand builderscompounds such as silicone softeners and cellulase enzyme that soften fabric hand
http://textilemania.textilefabric.com/u_8/u_8_2.html
participation activity:aesthetic finish identification
…using your complete textile sample workbook, identify a fabric in the collection for each of the finishes discussed in class today
…this can also help you to complete your textile sample book