FASHION 101: CHARLOTTE HANNAH

AS SEEN ON SCREEN : A VISUAL ESSAY

Creator: a person or thing that creates, an originator.

Celebrity: a person who has a prominent profile and commands a great degree of public fascination and influence in day-to-day media.

Fashion System: A fashion system operates to convert clothing into fashion. A fashion system is institutionally constructed and socially diffused

Technology: Methods and tools that society has developed in order to facilitate a modern lifestyle.

Fast fashion: The rapid global movement of fashion.

Retail Store: An outdated retail concept where the customer travels to the location of the store.

Convenience: Anything that is intended to save resources. This can take the form of time or energy.

Marketplace: An online system allowing for individuality within the online retail space.

Customer base: An invaluable asset to the fashion industry. A solid customer bases results in high sales and increased profits.

Fashion finder: An outlet to express and inspire on a global platform.

Style rookie: A new recruit to the fashion marketplace. A style rookie has a lot to learn.

Style icon: Possess timeless and sophisticated style consequently is a leader within a fashion system

Fashion queen: The leader of the fashion ASOS system; the power to lead and inspire.

AS SEEN ON SCREEN : AN INVESTIGATION

Pictured Isabel Lucas for ASOS, viewed 29th May 2012 < http://www.designscene.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/Isabel-Lucas-for-Asos-November-2011-DesignSceneNet-04.jpg>

Originally operating under the name AsSeenOnScreen, ASOS is now a global leader in online fashion. ‘With a primarily audi-ence of fashion forward 16-34 year olds, ASOS.com entices over 11 million unique visitors a month and as of 31 December 2010 ASOS had 4.9 million regis-tered users and 2.7 million active customers’. This makes ASOS the largest clothing retailer of its kind. Upon initial observations ASOS can be seen as simply an online store, however this is far from the case. ASOS have evolved into a complex fashion system comprising a series of key ‘actors’ all operating concur-rently to make up the ASOS fash-ion system.

THE CREATOR

Nick Robertson founded ‘As Seen On Screen’ in the year 2000, with the aim of bringing celebrity style and culture to the mass market. ASOS had a rocky start, with debt of $2.4 million however Robertson’s persever-ance paid off when a profit of £339.7 million was generated in the 2012/2011 financial year. Interestingly Robertson himself now reflects the philosophy of the brand as he has now become a celebrity through his ASOS’s suc

cess. This status was recently validated by being listed in the celebrity rich list on therichlist.org and being awarded an Order of the British Empire (OBE) by the Queen.1

THE CELEBRITY

The original concept of ASOS was built in response to a shift in fashion culture where impor-tance upon celebrity fashion grew. Robertson created a com-mercial space around society’s fascination with the celebrity and the fashion they wear. ASOS pro-vides a one stop shop which al-lows customers the opportunity to readily access celebrity fash-ion. Customers can buy up-to-the-minute styles of the kind worn by the likes of Kate Moss, Sienna Miller and Alexa Chung at high-street prices.2

Through replicating their celeb-rity icons customer can validate their fashion choice.

THE CUSTOMER

ASOS founder Nick Robertson describes the typical ASOS cus-tomer as ‘23, better looking than average, with Saturday night as her biggest night of the week’.3

Customers are from a global

community facilitated by the on-line platform ASOS has built. The evolution and rapid spread of technology has greatly influ-enced ASOS’s success. The in-creased availability of broadband internet and mobile technology has greatly increased customers access to ASOS allowing them to browse and buy anytime any-where. This heightened conven-ience far superior than any tradi-tional store can provide.

ASOS

/ THE CREATOR/ THE CELEBRITY/ THE CUSTOMER

THE STORE

The ASOS store comprises of a collection of over 50,000 prod-ucts showcasing both estab-lished and up and coming de-signers, and ASOS and designer brands. Perhaps a key factor of the success of ASOS is that the website has been designed for maximum useability to allow cus-tomers to easily navigate the wide range of garments available. All content has been meticulously ‘tagged’ allowing for easy and accurate searching, far superior than any bricks and mortar store can facilitate. Some commenta-tors believe that the online plat-form will never replace the store often commenting that a website cannot match the sensory experi-ence a store can provide – Rob-ertson disagrees stating ‘Every month 51% of 16 to 24-year-old girls buy clothes online. Get over the f***ing trying-on thing. Con-venience is why people buy on the web’ he continues. ‘Have you tried queuing up in Zara on a Sat-urday afternoon?’

Furthermore the ASOS website functions much like social net-working platforms such as Face-book. This approach ensures that the short attention span of gen-eration Y is maintained through giving them the opportunity to interact and connect within a glo-bal community. This is facilitated through the Marketplace and Fashion Finder tools available within the ASOS fashion system.

ASOS

/ THE STORE

Picture Shop ASOS Australia , viewed 29th May 2012 < http://www.meldmagazine.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Screen-shot-2011-09-15-at-3.59.03-PM.png>

ASOS

/ THE MARKETPLACE

MARKETPLACE

The ASOS Marketplace is one of a kind. It provides individu-als and stand-alone boutiques a platform to sell second hand, vintage and new clothing. This allows individuals the opportu-nity to access the ASOS client base and support they receive. It might seem at odds that a retail outlet such as ASOS would al-low for competitors to sell in the same space; however a closer investigation reveals that the marketplace is highly beneficial to ASOS.

ASOS benefit primarily through the profit generated through the commission (up to 20%). This is a solid return for ASOS as it is pure profit because they do not need to purchase the stock or maintain the store. Furthermore the ASOS Marketplace brings a range of new clients not generally partial to large scale commercial ven-tures such as ASOS which has the potential to translate into fu-ture ASOS sales.

ASOS offers two forms of sale avenues, individuals and bou-tiques. Individuals have the ben-efit of unlimited free listings and the ability to have promotions for mid and end of year sales. In return, ASOS receives 10% com-mission plus potentially

increased customer flow due to the traffic the individual may cre-ate. This service re-directs sec-onds clothing destined for eBay, a market or opportunity store and allows individuals to gener-ate a primary or complimentary income.

Boutiques have the same ben-efits as an individual seller, how-ever must pay a $20 per month fee plus ASOS receives 20% commission for every item sold. In return boutique owners re-ceive a customisable storefront, blog, account manager and a di-rectory listing. ASOS customers can also follow boutiques which ensure high customer retention, working in favour of both ASOS and the boutique. The ASOS boutique provides people with the opportunity to begin their re-tail venture. It has no contracts or large set up fees so it is a highly accessible to the individual. Many emerging designers use this platform to sell and generate publicity for their new label.

The Marketplace enhances the success of the ASOS however ASOS also works to help bou-tiques and individuals reach their full selling potential. They achieve this through providing a range of guides which help

to maximise sales. Key guides include photography guide, set-ting up you business, shipping advice, returns, refunds and can-cellations, promotions, payment and promotion. Through fostering these businesses ASOS creates a mutually beneficial relationship as the sellers benefit through the platform, support and notori-ety associated with ASOS, while ASOS receives access a wider client market consisting of indi-viduals who would not tradition-ally shop in the traditional ASOS online store.

Essentially the ASOS Market-place acts in a way which gives back to the fashion community through fostering smaller busi-nesses. Whether Marketplace is a genuine act or not is unable to be determined however it is clear that the Marketplace fa-cilitates a two way relationship which benefits both parties.

Pictured Susan Caplan diffusion line for ASOS Marketplace, viewed 29th May 2012 < http://www.susancaplan.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/FINAL-2-WITHOUT-LOGO-JPEG.jpg>

072

FASHION FINDER

ASOS Fashion Finder is an in-teractive online styling network where members can create, share and shop. Fashion Finder is divided in to four categories. These include trends, outfits, looks and shop. Users register to become an active member of the fashion finder community and interact to gain an increased fashion icon status. Participation is rewarded with points which are relative to the strength of the in-teraction which can include win-ning styling prizes, editor’s bo-nus, referring users and voting.

Individuals must sign up to fully uncover the fully workings of Fashion Finder. New members are awarded with the Style Rookie status. Fashion finder members create a fashion wall which show-cases the member’s style. Imag-es can be uploaded clothes from home or direct from the ASOS website, providing an alternative sales channel for ASOS. Fashion Finder also allows individuals the option to develop outfits from the ASOS collection. This is an in-valuable resource for ASOS as it is essentially a free stylist and market research portal.

FASHION HERO

The Fashion Finder system of ASOS includes ‘fashion heroes.’ Fashion heroes gain an elevat-ed status through high activity within the Fashion Finder com-munity. Their heightened status is achieved by fellow members liking their fashion taste which is transferred into Fashion Finder points. These points accumulate to achieve a ranking with only the best receiving celebrity status.

ASOS‘s key fashion icon is Ferah. She has created 1740 outfits on her Fashion Finder profile and has attained 46173 likes and 208 looks 4223 likes in her Fashion Finder career. Ferah writes that she has been inspired by the blogging industry however does not consider herself a stylist.

Instead Ferah simply enjoys fash-ion as an outlet from her day job like many blogger. Ferah enjoys being an icon through being able to be creative and supportive amongst the Fashion Finder com-munity.5

The ASOS fashion system is gain-ing notoriety with these fashion heroes such as Ferah becoming key influences within the wider fashion system. This is exhibited with ASOS icons being initiated into mainstream fashion through invitation to industry events.

ASOS benefits highly from the Fashion Finder system. When the style icons creates a look ASOS can link similar products for sale on the page where users can ‘shop’ the look. This process acts as free publicity and styling for ASOS, whilst also enabling them to provide for a wider client base through the diversity the Fashion Finder system caters for.

ASOS

/ FASHION FINDER/ FASHION HERO

Pictured ASOS Fashion Finder looks, viewed 29th May 2012 < http://stylesiren.ie/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/ASOS-Fashion-Finder-looks1.jpg>

INFLUENCE OF THE CELEBRITY DESIGNER

ASOS was founded in response to society’s obsession with celeb-rities and their culture. Reflected in its original name ‘AsSeenOn-Screen’ aspired to deliver ce-lebrity clothing to the masses through an online retail platform. The celebrity is a vital actor in the fashion system and this is further reflected by the labels of ‘Celebri-ty designers’ ASOS stock. ASOS stocks designer ranges such as Alexander McQueen however further investigation uncovers more celebrity designers such as Award winning fashion designer Yohji-Yamamoto, Karl Lagerfeld and Gewn Stefani. It is interest-ing that those dressing traditional celebrities have become a celeb-rity though their fashion designs talents. Perhaps this can be at-tributed to the red carpet system and the prestige it generates.

CONCLUSION

ASOS incorporates the celebrity in all its formats. From the creator Nick Robertson who has become a celebrity through his master-mind creation, the celebrity who provides the root source of fash-ion inspiration for ASOS and the consumer to emulate to the cus-tomer who eagerly consumers the celebrity fashion and the cus-tomer who suddenly becomes a celebrity through building a following on Fashion Finder. The complex fashion system of ASOS is having a widespread imapact upon the greater fashion ecosys-tem. Who the designer is? Who is the stylist? Who is teaching who?

ASOS

/ CELEBRITY NFLUENCE / CONCLUSION

Pictured Fashion Icon and celebrity Karl Lagerfeld, viewed 31st May 2012 < http://www.bohomoth.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Karl-Lagerfeld.jpg>