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Fender Jazzmaster Electronics Replacement Nik Ansell 2010 [email protected] http://nikansell.posterous.com A project to replace all the original electronics (Pickups, volume and tone controls etc) with a custom prewired assembly from Rothstein Guitars (www.guitar-mod.com ). My guitar is a 1980’s Japanese Fender Jazzmaster, I’ve had the guitar for around 16 years and love it. It really suits my playing style well, I play a pretty relaxed style, blending rock/metal, jazz and whatever, it seems to do it all really well . The only problem I had is that sometimes it sounds a bit dull and I have to play with my amp a bit more than I want to get the right sound. With these new electronics, I get a really strong sound that I can play with a lot without touching the amp, so for me it’s perfect.
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Page 1: Fender Jazzmaster Electronics Replacement - Nik's · PDF fileFender&Jazzmaster&Electronics&Replacement& Nik$Ansell$2010$ $ nikansell00@gmail.com$ $ $ Aproject$to$replace$all$the$original$electronics$(Pickups,$volume$and$tone$controls$etc)$with$a$

Fender  Jazzmaster  Electronics  Replacement  Nik  Ansell  2010    [email protected]  http://nikansell.posterous.com    A  project  to  replace  all  the  original  electronics  (Pickups,  volume  and  tone  controls  etc)  with  a  custom  pre-­‐wired  assembly  from  Rothstein  Guitars  (www.guitar-mod.com).    

 

   My  guitar  is  a  1980’s  Japanese  Fender  Jazzmaster,  I’ve  had  the  guitar  for  around  16  years  and  love  it.  It  really  suits  my  playing  style  well,  I  play  a  pretty  relaxed  style,  blending  rock/metal,  jazz  and  whatever,  it  seems  to  do  it  all  really  well  .  The  only  problem  I  had  is  that  sometimes  it  sounds  a  bit  dull  and  I  have  to  play  with  my  amp  a  bit  more  than  I  want  to  get  the  right  sound.    With  these  new  electronics,  I  get  a  really  strong  sound  that  I  can  play  with  a  lot  without  touching  the  amp,  so  for  me  it’s  perfect.  

     

       

Page 2: Fender Jazzmaster Electronics Replacement - Nik's · PDF fileFender&Jazzmaster&Electronics&Replacement& Nik$Ansell$2010$ $ nikansell00@gmail.com$ $ $ Aproject$to$replace$all$the$original$electronics$(Pickups,$volume$and$tone$controls$etc)$with$a$

The  New  Assembly  I  chose  to  go  for  the  custom  S15TM  assembly  which  uses  Curtis  Novak  pickups  for  both  the  bridge  and  neck.  However  the  key  difference  when  compared  to  other  assemblies  is  the  bridge  pickup,  it  behaves  like  4  pickups  in  one.      You  can  use  the  4  switches  (Highlighted  in  the  red  circle  below)  fitted  to  the  scratch  plate,  to  control  whether  you  switch  any  combination  of  the  4  pickup  sections  on  or  off.  This  results  is  an  amazing  amount  of  control  to  the  sound,  also  as  you  switch  more  parts  of  the  pickup  on,  it  naturally  overdrives  your  amp  and  gives  it  a  beautiful  warm  overdriven  sound.    All  assemblies  from  Rothstein  Guitars  can  be  purchased  pre-­‐wired  with  everything  apart  from  the  pickups  attached  to  the  underside  of  a  new  scratch  plate.  This  makes  it  a  much  easier  job  to  fit.      

 

Page 3: Fender Jazzmaster Electronics Replacement - Nik's · PDF fileFender&Jazzmaster&Electronics&Replacement& Nik$Ansell$2010$ $ nikansell00@gmail.com$ $ $ Aproject$to$replace$all$the$original$electronics$(Pickups,$volume$and$tone$controls$etc)$with$a$

Step  1 Remove  the  strings  and  bridge  OK  start  by  taking  off  all  your  strings  and  just  lift  out  the  bridge,  setting  to  one  side.      

     

 

Page 4: Fender Jazzmaster Electronics Replacement - Nik's · PDF fileFender&Jazzmaster&Electronics&Replacement& Nik$Ansell$2010$ $ nikansell00@gmail.com$ $ $ Aproject$to$replace$all$the$original$electronics$(Pickups,$volume$and$tone$controls$etc)$with$a$

Step  2 Remove  the  existing  electronics  Next  remove  all  the  scratch  plate  screws  with  a  medium  pozi  screwdriver  and  take  a  look  inside,  you  can  see  from  the  pic  below  that  the  pickup  covers  also  need  to  be  unscrewed  before  everything  will  lift  out.    

                                               

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Removing  the  screws  with  a  small  pozi  driver  and  lifting  off  the  pickup  covers.    

     

   

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 Underneath  the  pickups  you  will  find  some  foam  pad  strips,  keep  all  these  as  they  will  be  needed  later  to  seat  the  new  pickups.    

   

 

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Step  3 Drop  in  the  new  assembly  and  see  how  it  fits  Put  the  new  assembly  in  place  and  take  a  look  around  at  the  fit  to  the  guitar,  in  my  case  I  found  a  few  adjustments  were  needed  for  it  to  fit  perfectly.    Firstly  I  noticed  that  the  cables  going  to  the  rhythm  circuit  controls  were  preventing  the  scratch  plate  from  fitting  flush  around  the  neck  pickup.  I  simply  needed  to  un-­‐tape  the  wires  from  beneath  the  scratch  plate,  this  allowed  the  scratch  plate  to  fall  in  place,  afterwards  the  wires  can  be  carefully  pushed  to  one  side  of  the  neck  pickup.    

           

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Secondly  I  noticed  that  the  bridge  pickup  was  sitting  too  high,  even  without  any  foam  strips  below  it.  I  put  on  a  string  to  gauge  how  high  it  was.    

   When  comparing  the  two  assemblies  side  by  side  (below)  you  can  see  that  the  new  assembly  on  the  right  hand  side  below  has  additional  wires  on  the  bridge  pickup,  all  held  in  place  with  a  nice  chunk  of  wax.    Some  adjustment  is  needed  to  allow  the  bridge  pickup  to  sit  at  the  correct  height.  The  next  step  in  this  project  is  not  for  the  faint  hearted!    

       

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Step  4 Fit  the  guitar  body  to  the  new  bridge  pickup  As  we  saw  in  the  previous  step,  the  new  bridge  pickup  is  sitting  too  high;  I  chose  to  remove  some  of  the  wood  body  beneath  the  pickup  to  allow  it  to  fit  at  the  correct  height.    Flat  wood  bits  make  an  easy  job  of  removing  some  wood,  obviously  I  was  very  careful  not  to  drill  right  through  to  the  other  side  .  In  order  to  create  a  shape  close  to  the  shape  of  the  wire  and  wax  on  the  underside  of  the  pickup,  I  used  a  25mm  drill  at  full  depth  and  a  32mm  drill  at  half  depth.  You  can  see  the  step  this  creates  in  the  picture  below.    If  I  had  a  wood  chisel  at  this  stage  I  would  have  gently  neatened  up  the  drill  holes,  but  I  didn’t….    

   

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 The  finished  product,  now  it’s  time  to  fit  the  pickups.      

 

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Step  5 Fit  the  pickups  &  set  the  height  Simply  drop  the  pickups  in  place,  then  keep  adding  more  foam  strips  so  the  pickups  sit  slightly  too  high,  this  allows  the  pickup  height  to  be  adjusted  using  the  pickup  cover  screws  later.    Before:    

   

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After:    Fit  one  string  loosely  to  allow  you  to  guess  roughly  what  height  you  need  and  fit  the  pickups.  A  rough  distance  at  this  stage  is  around  1/8”  from  the  string.    

   

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Step  6 Solder  to  the  ground  wire  to  a  pot  casing  To  “wire  in”  the  new  assembly  you  simply  need  to  solder  the  ground  wire  to  a  pot  casing.  In  my  case  the  ground  wire  was  way  too  short  so  I  extended  it  a  little  further  first.    

     The  pot  is  quite  big  and  dissipates  heat  quickly  so  you  will  need  to  have  a  soldering  iron  big  enough  to  heat  the  pot,  otherwise  you  will  never  get  the  pot  hot  enough  to  melt  some  solder  on  it.    

   

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Step  7 Fit  the  scratch  plate,  pickup  covers  and  bridge    Make  sure  the  scratch  plate  fits  perfectly,  then  put  back  all  the  screws,  replace  the  pickup  covers  screwing  down  to  roughly  the  right  height,  then  drop  in  the  bridge.      Tip1:  When  putting  a  screw  back,  gently  turn  the  screw  anti-­‐clockwise  until  it  drops  into  place.  Try  it  with  a  bottle  top  if  you  don’t  get  the  idea  first  time.  This  stops  the  screw  from  chewing  up  the  wood  and  making  it  spin  without  ever  getting  tight.    

   

Tip2:  If  a  screw  does  spin  without  getting  tight,  simply  pad  out  the  screw  hole  with  a  toothpick  cut  to  the  right  length  before  replacing  the  screw,  as  shown  below.    

 

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Step  8 Re-­‐string  and  set  the  pickup  height    Fit  your  string  of  choice,  you  may  also  want  to  setup  the  bridge  again  (E.G  Set  the  correct  string  height/radius  and  intonation)  as  this  bridge  style  has  a  habit  of  moving  around  a  lot  unless  you  put  lock-­‐tight  on  the  grub  screws.    To  set  your  pickup  height  it  is  a  good  idea  to  have  your  guitar  plugged  in,  so  you  can  hear  the  difference  as  you  adjust.  The  height  is  adjusted  by  tightening  or  loosening  the  four  screws  to  adjust  down  or  up  (respectively)  as  desired.  The  best  setting  I  found  was  sitting  the  neck  pickup  just  over  3/16”  from  the  strings  and  the  bridge  pickup  just  under  3/16”.  This  allows  a  switch  from  a  nice  bright  sound  on  the  bridge  pickup  to  a  slightly  duller  warmer  sound  at  the  neck.      

   

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Step  9 Grab  a  beer  and  start  playing  All  done,  electronics  replaced  and  sounding  great!  Another  thing  you  may  want  to  do  while  you  have  all  your  strings  off,  is  to  apply  lemon  oil  to  your  fret  board.  I  use  “Dunlop  Fretboard  65  Ultimate  Lemon  Oil”  and  tend  to  do  it  around  once  a  year.It  really  brightens  it  up  visibly  as  well  as  keeping  it  feeling  nice  and  smooth  when  playing,.    You  can  see  from  the  photo  below  the  difference  it  made  to  my  fret  board.    

 


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